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  1. #41
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    This is so frustrating,... many of us here could probably pick up the truck and tell you whats wrong with it in 30 seconds, due to experience, but trying to diagnose over the internet is tough.... Generaly with a differential problem you don't just lose power, you get a lot of clicking and/or grinding...

    Do this.... spin one rear tire, and look closly at the driveshaft going from the tire to the center. its it spinning? is the part closest to the bulkheads (center) spinning? If yes, do the same on the other side... If that is a yes too, get an allen wrech, flip the truck over, and remove the center skid plate , I seem to remember the same screws hold the transmission in, so hang on to that when you remove the screws, once you can see the driveshafts, spin both front tires and see if the one going to the back diff is spinning, if that's a yes too, then the problem is probably the diff.... I have seen where the screws holding the diff halves together stripped, so that's a possibility.....
    Dacaur

  2. #42
    RC Qualifier MilitaryRcDude's Avatar
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    Thanks do you think that it is a gear tooth missing or a gear not touching? Do I need to get a diff kit or a shim kit which would you recommend? Should I get a erevo vxl 1/16 diff kit or stick with the summit vxl 1/16 diff kit?


    Thanks, MilitaryRcDude

  3. #43
    RC Qualifier MilitaryRcDude's Avatar
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    Yes the bulkhead are spinning the drive shaft that is going to the back diff is spinning I don't see the screws stripped or the holes stripped either.


    Thanks, MilitaryRcDude
    Last edited by MilitaryRcDude; 03-26-2015 at 10:24 PM.

  4. #44
    RC Qualifier MilitaryRcDude's Avatar
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    I don't hear any grinding but I hear a little bit of a clicking noise.



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  5. #45
    RC Qualifier MilitaryRcDude's Avatar
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    Any idea if I should get the Traxxas 7079 1/16 Differential Ring and Pinion Gear or a mini erevo vxl 1/16 diff?



    Thanks, MilitaryRcDude

  6. #46
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    There is no difference between summit and mini revo diffs, they are the same part #7078, 7079 is just the ring and pinion, 7078 is the complete diff, (which isn't that much more expensive). Its the same part for all the 1/16's actually.

    have you taken everything apart yet to see what's actually broken?? If you do end up replacing the diff, you might as well shim it while you are in there.
    Dacaur

  7. #47
    RC Qualifier dr frankenstyle's Avatar
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    Shims will take out a little slack in the gears, but failure points to another problem. Ok, let's get to a "same page". How much have you removed or disassembled? Is the diff in the bulkheads? Still mounted to the chassis? What drive-shafts are still connected? Why do you think you need a gear set? I can't tell what assemblies exactly that you've eliminated as ok.
    Everyone's trying to help, but ...there seems to be some fog in this thread.
    chop it up ... stitch it up ...It's ALIVE !!!

  8. #48
    RC Qualifier MilitaryRcDude's Avatar
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    I having disassembled the diff yet because I don't know how?? But I took the rear axle off so I can see the gears
    I'm pretty sure that the main drive shaft is slipping on the diff ring


    Thanks, MilitaryRcDude

  9. #49
    RC Qualifier dr frankenstyle's Avatar
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    When you say axle, do you mean the rear assembly? With suspension and drive-shafts attached? So you can see the gear inside the black plastic assembly, and roll the gear with your fingers? And the (center) shaft is sticking out of the front?
    chop it up ... stitch it up ...It's ALIVE !!!

  10. #50
    RC Qualifier MilitaryRcDude's Avatar
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    Yes, the REAR ASSEMBLY how do I take apart the diff case where It is just the diff I can't find anything any videos,links would help THANK YOU GUYS SO MUCH FOR ALL OF YOUR HELP!!!


    Thanks, MilitaryRcDude
    Last edited by MilitaryRcDude; 03-27-2015 at 08:59 PM.

  11. #51
    RC Qualifier dr frankenstyle's Avatar
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    Ok, before you tear it down you can check it a couple of ways. If you turn the front shaft, it should turn the diff and the axle drive-shafts. If you HOLD the front shaft and turn one wheel, the other should rotate in the opposite direction.
    There should be very little slack between the pinion (front shaft) and the ring gear (around the diff). If there IS, you need to find WHY, whether it's a bearing or a cracked bulkhead.
    You should go to the support section above and download the exploded views. They'll show you most of the pieces and how they assemble.
    chop it up ... stitch it up ...It's ALIVE !!!

  12. #52
    RC Qualifier MilitaryRcDude's Avatar
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    Thanks I pretty sure that the diff ring and the pinion are slipping on each other if I hold each axle and turn the pinion shaft do you think that that is the problem too?


    Thanks, MilitaryRcDude

  13. #53
    RC Qualifier dr frankenstyle's Avatar
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    Do you have the pinion stripped down to just the steel shaft with a hole in it? The pinion shaft shouldn't slide in or out, that's where you shim out the slack to keep the gear mesh snug. If yours moves, again you need to find why, where is the slack? Usually the plastic shafts or bulkheads give out before the metal gears do.
    chop it up ... stitch it up ...It's ALIVE !!!

  14. #54
    RC Qualifier MilitaryRcDude's Avatar
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    The pinion is stripped down I took the rear assembly and I took the pinion shaft and gear off where I see them. I just took off one side of the diff box I just need to take the other side off!!!


    Thanks, MilitaryRcDude
    Last edited by MilitaryRcDude; 03-27-2015 at 10:17 PM.

  15. #55
    RC Qualifier MilitaryRcDude's Avatar
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    Any idea how to get the diff case off. The exploded view gets me confused? Links to videos or pics would help!!!


    Thanks, MilitaryRcDude

  16. #56
    RC Qualifier dr frankenstyle's Avatar
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    Well, I threw out a life-raft, but I think it missed your lake.
    Ok, the front and rear assemblies are pretty much mirror opposites so they should work, feel, and essentially look identical to each other. You can compare the guts and try to match the rear setup to the front.
    I have a rear bulkhead/diff assembly in my hand, and I can't duplicate your issue without a serious wear/slack/breakage problem. you lost me in the fog....
    If you see the raft, throw your truck in and float it this way.
    chop it up ... stitch it up ...It's ALIVE !!!

  17. #57
    RC Qualifier dr frankenstyle's Avatar
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    If you have both axle drive-shafts off, the bulkheads should just separate and the diff and bearings should pop out. They just fit pretty tight.
    chop it up ... stitch it up ...It's ALIVE !!!

  18. #58
    RC Qualifier dr frankenstyle's Avatar
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    I found a youtube video, RCoverload: 1/16th e-revo rebuild part 3. It shows him rebuilding and shimming an e-revo diff (same thing), maybe that will help.
    chop it up ... stitch it up ...It's ALIVE !!!

  19. #59
    RC Qualifier MilitaryRcDude's Avatar
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    Thanks I just took off the drive shaft connected to the diff I think I broke the hole that the pin goes into do you know where I can get more or what they are called I can't find hardly anything?


    Thanks, MilitaryRcDude

  20. #60
    RC Qualifier MilitaryRcDude's Avatar
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    How do I get the bulkheads off I tried pliers but I don't want to break the pin or the bulkhead!!!



    Thanks, MilitaryRcDude

  21. #61
    RC Qualifier dr frankenstyle's Avatar
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    Sounds like the side-gear shaft, you'll probably have to buy a diff. eBay has everything you can get for all Traxxas vehicles. You can search truck and part names. Or you can get some parts from Traxxas at the top of the page. If you have a local shop, they may have or get it.
    Broken shaft or yoke connection explains your symptoms better than gears. Sounds like you found it.
    chop it up ... stitch it up ...It's ALIVE !!!

  22. #62
    RC Qualifier dr frankenstyle's Avatar
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    The bulkheads have a screw right above the pinion that holds them together. Other than that, it's just a snug fit. Or SHOULD be ....anyway.
    chop it up ... stitch it up ...It's ALIVE !!!

  23. #63
    RC Qualifier MilitaryRcDude's Avatar
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    THANKS so I broke the hole on the bulkhead thank you for all of your time and help I think my local hobby shop has a bulkhead.Since I already have the diff open I am going to replace the pinion bulkhead and the diff ring since it looks like they are worn and grinding on each other!!!!!!.






    Thanks, MilitaryRcDude
    Last edited by MilitaryRcDude; 03-27-2015 at 11:14 PM.

  24. #64
    RC Qualifier dr frankenstyle's Avatar
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    Ok, the bulkheads are the black plastic housings that the diffs go in and the suspension connects to (part # 7029X in the rear exploded view). The diff is the steel gear case with the side shafts (part #7078) and the pinion is the front shaft( #7079). If you broke one of the shaft connections, you'll need either the pinion set or a diff.
    If you broke a shaft, you can get either Summit or e-Revo drive-shafts (e-Revo are tougher).
    Last edited by dr frankenstyle; 03-27-2015 at 11:21 PM.
    chop it up ... stitch it up ...It's ALIVE !!!

  25. #65
    RC Qualifier MilitaryRcDude's Avatar
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    Yeah I broke the hole in the bulkhead by pulling it too hard off of the pin on the diff. The diff connection to the bulkhead is fine. Luckily the pinion and the pinion shaft the shaft that the pinion is connected to was already off!! It is so difficult to explain over the internet!!

    Thanks, MilitaryRcDude

  26. #66
    RC Qualifier dr frankenstyle's Avatar
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    I think you've tracked it down, I'll check back t'morrow.
    chop it up ... stitch it up ...It's ALIVE !!!

  27. #67
    RC Qualifier MilitaryRcDude's Avatar
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    Thanks!!! I'll check back tomorrow 2



    Thanks, MilitaryRcDude

  28. #68
    RC Qualifier MilitaryRcDude's Avatar
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    I'm trying to take the diff ring off so I can replace it with a new one. I already took the pinion off!!



    Thanks, MilitaryRcDude

  29. #69
    RC Qualifier dr frankenstyle's Avatar
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    The ring gear is cast into the diff case (the carrier), not removable as a gear. A new ring and pinion set will require a full rebuild of the diff, new oil, etc. Be careful with the O-rings. A new diff won't come with a pinion (unless specified), but they all match. Seems you have multi' issues.
    chop it up ... stitch it up ...It's ALIVE !!!

  30. #70
    RC Qualifier MilitaryRcDude's Avatar
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    Jus finished up I got a whole new diff and installed it but put it backwards gonna put it on correctly tomorrow!! I'll check back tomorrow


    Thanks, MilitaryRcDude

  31. #71
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    I think you should bring it to your LHS and let them fix it, that would probably be best.

  32. #72
    RC Qualifier MilitaryRcDude's Avatar
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    That's what I was thinking also!!
    Thanks, MilitaryRcDude

  33. #73
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    Hey man I have a problem that maybe you can help me with? My front wheels spin freely but my rear spin just barely before they lock up. I took apart my rear diff and it looks all good as well with my drive shaft. Any idea of what it could be?

  34. #74
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by QuinnThePilot View Post
    Hey man I have a problem that maybe you can help me with? My front wheels spin freely but my rear spin just barely before they lock up. I took apart my rear diff and it looks all good as well with my drive shaft. Any idea of what it could be?
    Likely a broken front diff. Because a 4x4 vehicle shouldn't have freely spinnable wheels.

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