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  1. #41
    RC Champion NFS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtb_prodigy View Post
    No, I dont have the traxxas shafts.

    Couldnt find anything on RC-monster,
    this is the only thing I found on UE
    http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/...ore/85011.html
    It doesn't say too much about it, but there is not a lot of options, I would give it a try, if they made it for the traxxas truck it might fit right.

  2. #42
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    I just tried the 8x142, and its too long The end of the dogbone is hitting the shaft of the pinion gear. Theres still room left on the cups but the shaft of the pinion is in the way.

    So much failure.

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtb_prodigy View Post
    I just tried the 8x142, and its too long The end of the dogbone is hitting the shaft of the pinion gear. Theres still room left on the cups but the shaft of the pinion is in the way.

    So much failure.
    It is a bit long, and tight fit, but it works, you can also dremel the end of the dogbones. Remember these are not made to the specs of the erevo, you have to mod them to make them fit, the rear end has to be removed to install the dogbone because it is too long.
    Last edited by NFS; 04-21-2015 at 04:24 PM.

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by NFS View Post
    It is a bit long, and tight fit, but it works, you can also dremel the end of the dogbones. Remember these are not made to the specs of the erevo, you have to mod them to make them fit, the rear end has to be removed to install the dogbone because it is too long.
    I did remove the rear end, I cant get the holes for the bulkhead to line up with the chassis. I dont understand why it doesnt fit on mine but it does on everyone elses. Its not that its a tight fit, there is no room it looks like I have to cut down the pinion shaft. Did you put the bearing there as a shim?

  5. #45
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    Pinion bearing? Off course.

  6. #46
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    Not the bearings that go in the housing, there is one that sits on the shaft outside the housing. On the RCM diffs you sent me.

  7. #47
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    Yup, it has all the bearings, remember these are not like traxxas diffs, the design is a bit diff, you can open the case if you want to take a look.

  8. #48
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    I have, there are a total of 3 bearings for the pinion. 2 inside the housing, 1 outside. Sound right?

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtb_prodigy View Post
    I have, there are a total of 3 bearings for the pinion. 2 inside the housing, 1 outside. Sound right?
    Yes, that how I had them
    Last edited by NFS; 04-21-2015 at 05:32 PM.

  10. #50
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    I believe that outside bearing was used as a shim/spacer. I don't see it here, it only shows 4 in total. Maybe if you remove that bearing the 142mm dogbone will fit, I had KD dogbones (137mm) with no issues.

    http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...id+diff%2Fcase
    Last edited by NFS; 04-21-2015 at 05:31 PM.

  11. #51
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    Mtb_protigy can you post some pics of the fitment issue? I just measured the rear dog bone in my Erbe and its about 118mm long from pin to pin.

    Last edited by rock-rod; 04-21-2015 at 08:51 PM.
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  12. #52
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    Rock-rod, Im amazed that 118mm fits, NFS said that his KD bones are 137mm's long and that would definitely fit. The 142mm bone I have is just a few mm's too long. Ill get some pics up in a few days, I left town.

    NFS, I removed the bearing that was used as a shim earlier and the cup is not an issue anymore. The bone now hits the end of the pinion gear shaft before the bulkhead holes line up with the chassis.

    I have a two options at this point.
    1. cut off a few mm's from the pinion shaft (maybe also a mm or two off the end of the bone)
    2. buy the KD bones

    NFS, you were right. I wish I had just spent the money on the KD bones and saved myself the headache. Trucks been down for 3 weeks now due to diffs and center drive shafts. It will be worth it once its done though.

  13. #53
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    Rock-rod what kind of diffs are you running?

  14. #54
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    I believe he has losi lst diffs, no way that dog bone is 118mm even traxxas steel is around 13ish. I wouldn't cut the pinion, it has lip to hold the drivecup, just I case. Try grinding down the dogbone ends a bit to see if that help.

  15. #55
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    Yep running losi diffs. I was eyeballing the measurement because it's not easy to get the calipers in there and didn't want to tear the whole thing down to get the bone out. I need to pull the trans out soon anyways to inspect the 1/8 scale center diff. It appears I have a leak judging by the silicon oil residue on the trans case. I will post some pics of the diff when I do.

    These are the KD dog bones and other than an issue with one of the KD cups being defective, it was a drop in with no other mods with the lst2 diffs. Worth the money for me.

    One other trick is to pull the transmission apart and redrill the hole for the pin that holds the cup in place but out the hole further in towards the trans case. You will have to make the hole 90 degrees offset from the original and then grind the flat sides so that they overlap the new hole. This trick can gain you 3-4 mm of additional clearance. You want a little slop in there to allow for chassis flex.
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  16. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by rock-rod View Post
    Yep running losi diffs. I was eyeballing the measurement because it's not easy to get the calipers in there and didn't want to tear the whole thing down to get the bone out. I need to pull the trans out soon anyways to inspect the 1/8 scale center diff. It appears I have a leak judging by the silicon oil residue on the trans case. I will post some pics of the diff when I do.

    These are the KD dog bones and other than an issue with one of the KD cups being defective, it was a drop in with no other mods with the lst2 diffs. Worth the money for me.

    One other trick is to pull the transmission apart and redrill the hole for the pin that holds the cup in place but out the hole further in towards the trans case. You will have to make the hole 90 degrees offset from the original and then grind the flat sides so that they overlap the new hole. This trick can gain you 3-4 mm of additional clearance. You want a little slop in there to allow for chassis flex.
    Good idea, I think Id rather just spend the money on the KD bones at that point though.

  17. #57
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    i finally got around to pulling the kershaw rear dog bone for the lst2 diff application. measured length from pin to pin is 142mm.

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  18. #58
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    Old thread, old problem. Kershaw Designs is out of business I believe, cause Dan passed away. So where do I get the front center dogbone? Searched around but cant seem find a dogbone with the correct measurments.
    Slash 4x4 / Erbe / Custum Erbe / Bandit VXL

  19. #59
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    do you have front dog bone measurements? length pin to pin and diameter of the ball?
    The rear is a direct match to the savage XL rear dog bone and those are still available for now (HPI part # 86054).
    Last edited by rock-rod; 08-09-2018 at 11:59 AM.
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  20. #60
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    Length, center pin to pin =54 mm.
    Overall length =62 mm.
    Dogbone diameter 5,3 mm.
    Pin lenght = 14 mm
    Ball end diameter = 7,94 mm
    Pin diameter = 3 mm

    I found the correct length, but they were tiny ones with something like 3-4 mm diameter dogbone.

    Good to see some of the "oldtimers" still are alive on this forum
    Last edited by ronnyen; 08-10-2018 at 03:36 AM.
    Slash 4x4 / Erbe / Custum Erbe / Bandit VXL

  21. #61
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    I am pretty certain Dan was having those custom made. I can't find anything that used that size (even plus/minus a few millimeters in length).

    Are the pins worn out? Unless the shaft is twisted or bent and it's just the pins are worn, you can usually replace the pins using a tool (look up mugen pin tool) and ordering some replacement 3mm hardened steel pins. The tool is used to press out the old pins and install the new ones thereby extending the life of the shaft.

    Otherwise you may have to order a longer shaft and cut/weld to the correct length. It may also be possible to order HPI 86057 (it has an 8mm ball and 78mm length) and then re-position the cup on the transmission output shaft to work with the longer length shaft. Basically you shorten the output shaft, grind new flats and either redrill the hole for the traxxis pin or use set screws to lock the cup in place. The longer shaft will also help extend the life of the dog bone because it will reduce the angle on the LST pinion cup a little.

    Last option is to go back to the weaker plastic front shaft and order some of those aluminum adapter yokes from RC Monster Mike. I think there's enough play to work with the longer pinion shaft LST diff.

    With Dan no longer with us - I don't think there's an off the shelf solution anymore. At least the rear is readily available for now and it might be a good idea to grab a few from ebay.

    check out this old post: https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...entre-dogbones

    It talks about how people were using Dan's kit when he first made it available with LST diffs and how they found out the front dog bone was too long - Dan started making the special kit for the LST diffs and a slightly shorter front dog bone (went from 59mm to 54mm, but kept the 8mm ball end).
    I have an RC problem...

  22. #62
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    Actualy the ball end broke around the pin. I have the traxxas steel center driveshaft, were the pin is spotwelded. But they tend to wear down fast where the pin goes through the ball end. But its good for now. Maybe I must go that way again when there is no dogbone to get.
    Slash 4x4 / Erbe / Custum Erbe / Bandit VXL

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