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  1. #1
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    Slash Trail Thingy

    While salvaging some old P4de parts I ended up building a trail truck for my son. I'm only half way through, but I'll soon run into areas where I hope to get some help from the forum

    A dyed black HCG chassis
    Alu parts include motor plate, motor mount, shock towers, A-arms, knuckles and hubs (and ESC plate as well as a battery "strap" currently in mail).
    Traxxas steel drive shafts.
    I'm hoping for a Yeti body/cage whenever one becomes available on eBay.

    I bought the MT 2.2-3.0 wheels from RC4WD and boy are they pretty. Proline SSwampers cut to "fit". I have yet to decide on motor and ESC but I'll get back to that (that's where I hope to get help - I have no idea what to get and how to think)

    I'm surprized at the articulation I can get from this roller. What a fantastically diverse and thought-through platform the Slash is!

    Disclaimer: I know it won't climb as an A**al truck and I know almost all my aluminium is just for posing. This is just a fun and (IMHO) beautiful build to co-exist with my other Slash, P4de and Summit trucks









    Summit, Stampede 4x4, Slash 4x4

  2. #2
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    Sweet ride!!!! Sct 3800 from castle will give you tons of power an torque for trails!!!! There is lots of power plants to choose from.

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. TK 10's Avatar
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    Thats a really good start. Looks awesome! Are the wheels aluminum?
    R/C Sith Lord

  4. #4
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    Love the looks of your tire and wheel combo, nice rig!
    Slash HCG & SW8 2200 kv Slash LCG Platinum

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    Proline makes a short course Super Swamper. What made you decide to cut to fit a different set? You are going to love aluminum wheels! I have had mine for years and still absolutely love them
    Member of the 10,000 + posts club! Here to help!

  6. #6
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    Thanks everyone I decided to cut my expensive tires since I wanted the 2.2 look but taller tires than normal SCT-size. If there were any relatively narrow 3.0 or 3.2 climber beadlocks available (with suitable tires) I might have gone with those but I have never found any. I also ordered some really nice looking Exceed RC 6x6 wheels/tires that are 2.8, thinking that they would clear the hubs just as the Stampede wheels does, but they don't. Money straight down the toilet. Anyhow, I agree, the alu wheels look just amazing, and the build quality is flawless.

    I had high hopes for the 2.8 wheels They look like this:



    Edit: And if my LHC would've had the XL Swampers in stock I would have bough those for even taller tires. But I'll settle for these for the moment...

    As for the Exceed monstrosity in general. Even though the aesthetics can (and should) be questioned, it's probably fun to drive
    Last edited by michaelsjo; 05-05-2015 at 09:20 AM.
    Summit, Stampede 4x4, Slash 4x4

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Wow. Very nice Slash. Those tires/wheels look amazing.

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    Once you go with aluminum beadlock wheels that is all you want to run! I still love the way mine look. I have no more problems stripping wheel hex either

    Member of the 10,000 + posts club! Here to help!

  9. #9
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    I just bought some HR steel slipper/spur so that even the tranny gets some bling. I suppose I'll be needing a transparent cover too I also ordered the E-maxx diff housings (3978) so that if something goes wrong in the drive train It'll be both expensive and perhaps difficult to find

    However, the big thing yesterday was that I also ordered a complete (and rather cheap) Wraith cage that I found. I have absolutely no idea if it will be two narrow or whatever mods I'll have to do to make it sit right. But I don't think I've seen anyone else do this so I'm hoping to get some nice build pictures whenever the cage arrives

    El Sob: Is that the legendary El Sob Special right there? I've read about it like 1000 times but I don't think I've ever seen it Looks fantastic!
    Summit, Stampede 4x4, Slash 4x4

  10. #10
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    I look forward to seeing your progress. I was thinking of switching over my Stampede trail truck to a Slash chassis and adding a Yeti or Wraith cage. I've seen a Yeti cage on a Slash 4x4 chassis before but I'm not sure how it was mounted.

  11. #11
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    A word of advice on the hex nuts on your wheels, they are terrible and round over very easily. I'm switching all mine over to regular button head screws.

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLachance75 View Post
    I look forward to seeing your progress. I was thinking of switching over my Stampede trail truck to a Slash chassis and adding a Yeti or Wraith cage. I've seen a Yeti cage on a Slash 4x4 chassis before but I'm not sure how it was mounted.
    That was th67ss that had the Yeti cage/body on his Slash 4x4:
    https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...-For-Sale-ARTR

    His pictures are gone now, but still see some on Google if you search for it. You should PM him for pics. Good luck!

    If you decide to build your own cage, check out this Summit custom build... incredible total build and awesome pics!
    https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...Summit-Projekt
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Sob View Post
    Proline makes a short course Super Swamper. What made you decide to cut to fit a different set? You are going to love aluminum wheels! I have had mine for years and still absolutely love them
    The 2.2 crawler swampers are a much taller tire, so you can run it on a short course wheel and still have a little bit of sidewall for some tire flex. And it's available in the g8 compound. I did the same thing with some 2.2 ripsaws.

    For power, I would definitely NOT run the 3800 if it's going to really be used for trailing and crawling. Too high strung, and it's sensorless.

    I would go with an evx2 and a 21t titan, or a self waterproofed mmp and a 21t titan. Yet another or, a cheap and already waterproof sidewinder and a titan, lol. That's probably my #1 choice bang for buck. On 3s and 4s in my telly I love the titan. Or, if you want the crawling and the speed, look for a low kV sensored motor. I have a neewer 1900kv sensored motor on the way now. It's 2 pole, however, so I don't know what to expect. Only 27$, though, so not much wasted if it doesn't have enough grunt.
    Last edited by mwe-maxxowner; 05-06-2015 at 07:16 PM.
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by michaelsjo View Post
    I also ordered some really nice looking Exceed RC 6x6 wheels/tires that are 2.8, thinking that they would clear the hubs just as the Stampede wheels does, but they don't.
    Did you try it with hub extensions to clear the castor blocks? Might just work...
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  15. #15
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    Thanks everyone!

    @BLanche75: Could you tell me exactly what kind of screws you got? I fear I'll order screws that have too big "heads" that won't fit inside the indents/recesses on the wheel.

    @Squeegie: The 17mm hex adapter I have already has some extension to them. To clear the hubs I'd have to get like 20mm extensions and that would cause several problems on the trail (and look a little weird too). If too long extensions are used, turning the steering while standing still will cause the tires to move quite alot. With ethe standard offset 12mm setup, a standstill steering will have the wheel pivoting basically on center. Which I want.

    @mwe-maxxowner (and the rest of you): I'm quite unexperienced, but I understand I want a low KV for the motor. I was actually looking at the HW kit: http://www.hobbywing.com/product_show.asp?id=262. And even though the blue kit would look freat on this rig I want a black one that is more likely to look great regardless of future rig preferences Would this be a good/ok choice?
    Last edited by michaelsjo; 05-08-2015 at 04:10 AM.
    Summit, Stampede 4x4, Slash 4x4

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by michaelsjo View Post
    @Squeegie: The 17mm hex adapter I have already has some extension to them. To clear the hubs I'd have to get like 20mm extensions and that would cause several problems on the trail (and look a little weird too). If too long extensions are used, turning the steering while standing still will cause the tires to move quite alot. With ethe standard offset 12mm setup, a standstill steering will have the wheel pivoting basically on center. Which I want.
    Can the top of the castor blocks be ground down enough to clear the inner ridges (bolt pass thru) of the wheel?
    Just throwing out some ideas...
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  17. #17
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    Good thinking, but I don't think it will be enough. I could probably get them down to where they only "rub" somewhat, but that would still be a thorn in my side everytime I'm driving. I can probably use them for some other future project
    Summit, Stampede 4x4, Slash 4x4

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by michaelsjo View Post
    @BLanche75: Could you tell me exactly what kind of screws you got? I fear I'll order screws that have too big "heads" that won't fit inside the indents/recesses on the wheel.
    I'm just using regular m3x10 button head screws, same thing you'd find anywhere else on the RC. I bought a pack of 100 SS ones off of eBay for about $5

  19. #19
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    OK thanks, I'll see what I can find in my drawers

    I'm about half way on both my new chassis. New updates are coming whenever I get the parts I'm waiting for.



    Summit, Stampede 4x4, Slash 4x4

  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    No idea. The motor I bought is blue too, lol. Seems everyone wants to build a blue motor. I did find a cheap black low kV sensored motor on eBay you might wanna try if it matters that muuch. Or cover the motor with a black heatsink.
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  21. #21
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Nice looking trucks you've got there, the wheels are sweet.
    Just picked up another set of Methods yesterday myself.
    I tried a color coordinated rig once, looked great when it was done but they get tore up so fast I'm looking into removing the anodizing on my PF8.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  22. #22
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by michaelsjo View Post
    Good thinking, but I don't think it will be enough. I could probably get them down to where they only "rub" somewhat, but that would still be a thorn in my side everytime I'm driving. I can probably use them for some other future project
    If you lower the front turnbuckles on the c-hubs/castor blocks, you should have enough to grind off the top and easily clear the inner "ribs" of the Exceeds. How extended are your 17mm adapters? The Exceeds have a very positive (narrow) offset.

    BTW, your rigs are beautiful!
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  23. #23
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    Interesting! You're right, of course. I might try that on another chassis/setup with some plastic blocks just to see if I can get it done It's likely, however, that I'll never muster the courage to grind down my pretty (and rather expensive) alloy blocks...

    By the way - does anyone know what diff fluid I should choose? I guess I want something that is really sticky/low viscosity, but I don't want them completely solid. What should I look for? My LHC only carries a limited stock of such fluids but I want to know what I really want before they tell me their story (which likely will include only what they actually have in stock).

    Thanks everyone!
    Summit, Stampede 4x4, Slash 4x4

  24. #24
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by michaelsjo View Post
    Interesting! You're right, of course. I might try that on another chassis/setup with some plastic blocks just to see if I can get it done It's likely, however, that I'll never muster the courage to grind down my pretty (and rather expensive) alloy blocks...

    By the way - does anyone know what diff fluid I should choose? I guess I want something that is really sticky/low viscosity, but I don't want them completely solid. What should I look for? My LHC only carries a limited stock of such fluids but I want to know what I really want before they tell me their story (which likely will include only what they actually have in stock).

    Thanks everyone!
    The El Sob special is actually the motor system that I run in my truck. That is one of the bodies of my truck lol. I run 100,000 in my rear differential. I utilize the stock 30,000 in the front. I like how I get a Posi-Traction feel from the rear differential
    Member of the 10,000 + posts club! Here to help!

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by michaelsjo View Post
    By the way - does anyone know what diff fluid I should choose? I guess I want something that is really sticky/low viscosity, but I don't want them completely solid. What should I look for? My LHC only carries a limited stock of such fluids but I want to know what I really want before they tell me their story (which likely will include only what they actually have in stock).

    Thanks everyone!
    I run silly putty in the diffs on my Stampede trail truck. It pretty much locks the diffs but in a bind will allow enough slipping. I put the silly putty then topped it off with 500k fluid.

  26. #26
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    Thanks BLachance75, but I lack all the experience you have. I've read a few other posts where owners have put silly putty in their diffs. But I get a little worried here Will it come off whenever I want to revert to a "normal" diff fluid? Will it blend with the fluid used to "top off"? What exactly IS silly putty? What is the stickiest compound normally available that is actually intended for RC diff use? Should I look for the lowest K I can find or are there special things for this?

    Sorry for all the noob-ness, but I get a little anxious when it comes to filling a diff with anything else than something that says "RC diff fuid" on the bottle

    This is the conversation I have in my nightmares:

    Me: My diffs are ruined. That, in turn ruined my slipper. That, in turn ruined my motor. And I need to buy new ones.
    LHC: What happened?
    Me: I put silly putty in my diffs to _almost_ lock them.
    LHC: You did what?!
    Me: Errhh... Silly putty? You know...
    LHC: Haha you silly person of lesser knowledge! For that you need the American grade silly putty produced by Crayola US Inc. The European - licenced - version of silly putty will melt under stress, then harden when it cools, and then release nasty toxins which may or may not have killed your pets. Everybody knows that. That's why we sell diff fluids and not silly putty.
    Summit, Stampede 4x4, Slash 4x4

  27. #27
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Traxxas makes a 500k fluid that you could use. It will almost be like a locked diff and can be easily reversed.

  28. #28
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    Thanks! I've ordered a bottle of 500k. I'll start from there
    Summit, Stampede 4x4, Slash 4x4

  29. #29
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by michaelsjo View Post
    Thanks! I've ordered a bottle of 500k. I'll start from there
    I have used it before. It is extremely thick, so let me give you a little tip. Heat up a coffee mug full of water in your microwave. Then, pull the mug out and then set the bottle of oil in the hot water for about 10 minutes. It will make it pour out much easier, then once it cools off, it will thicken right back up.

  30. #30
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    Great tip! Thanks! But it does raise a question - if the diff oil reacts to temperatures like that, how good is it at retaining it's viscocity (spelling?) while driving? I though the very idea of using professional diff fluids was to make use of fluids that DON'T change properties under stress (=heat)?

    I received my HR slipper yesterday and threw it in my truck. What a great looking part that is Too bad it's completely hidden. Not even a transparent gear cover will help as the blue part goes underneath the top rear chassi section.

    Summit, Stampede 4x4, Slash 4x4

  31. #31
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    coming allong good michaelsjo, i wanna see more pics!!!!
    Sl4sh, Arrma Talion, Stamp4de, Castle, MIP, RPM

  32. #32
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    I though the very idea of using professional diff fluids was to make use of fluids that DON'T change properties under stress (=heat)?
    Any fluid will change it's viscosity because of temperature..... whether it be maple syrup or diesel fuel. The difference is is that a high quality fluid, will not change it's viscosity as much. This is why all of my 1:1 vehicles and 1:1 toys only get Mobil 1.

  33. #33
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    Thanks for clarifying OK then, time to build some diffs!



    I followed the tip I read somewhere and got the E-maxx diff housings that has the metal plates holding the planetary gear axle. If the fluid is going to fight all movement I guess it's a good idea to stiffen it up a bit. I then added the fluid which my LHC explained was 1000K (on the Traxxas 500K scale). Heated in a cup of water it was fairly workable. Filled about 3/4 and sealed them. Trying to turn the gears with my fingers on the outdrives was virtually impossible so I think this will be great on the trail.



    Oh, and much to my surprize, the Wraith cage arrived way earlier than expected.



    I put together the entire thing and then tried to figure out what could be taken away to still have a working cage but without elements I won't need. I ended up cutting away LOTS of elements. Once I have some body panels it'll be really easy to get regular body posts (like the Telluride ones) to hold on to the roof and the hood. Since the cage is quite heavy I'll put some foam just inside the chassis edges for the cage to rest on (the cage is just wide enough to "fill" the width of the HCG chassis). Hopefully that will take some load off the body mounts. I would have wanted to make the rear mount a hinge-type but I'll settle for the regular body post idea for now. I'm absolutely confident it will look great!





    Summit, Stampede 4x4, Slash 4x4

  34. #34
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    Looks good, I almost want to convert my Stampede over to a Slash chassis so I can run something similar.

  35. #35
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    I really like where this build is going. Very nice!
    Mr nitro? Not since going brushless!

  36. #36
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Nice and clean looking build!
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  37. #37
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    Wow, great to see that the wrait cage fits on nicely, just curious hows strong is it
    And those metal beadlocks are just awsome
    Live life to the fullest

  38. #38
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    Very nice! I hade the same idea a few weeks ago but scrapped it since i couldnt find any info regarding cage mounting on the slash. Maybe you can get som close up pics on what u cut out on the cage?

  39. #39
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrSvahn View Post
    Very nice! I hade the same idea a few weeks ago but scrapped it since i couldnt find any info regarding cage mounting on the slash. Maybe you can get som close up pics on what u cut out on the cage?

    He is using an Axial Wrait cage, pre cut and then you have to assemble it.
    Live life to the fullest

  40. #40
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    Yeah i know, i spent a week researching after seeing the 2wd Sleti build on URC. Though i realised it would prolly look weird since my slash is LCG :/

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