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  1. #41
    RC Racer FMcamaroZ28's Avatar
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    I would just charge them as usual, then use them in the truck until you notice a big dropoff in power. Then charge them again.

    I doubt its worth your time to discharge and cycle them

  2. #42
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    Well I put 3 runs thru the truck. 75% grass and then a mix of black top and dirt. She scoots right along for being a stock setup. Havnt checked but it must do 35-40 mph.

    Shock caps came in the mail. Even tho I havnt had the plastic ones pop off yet I still went ahead and installed them. Why not. Still waiting for the aluminum bearing adaptor and lipo batteries.

    The motor after a run feels pretty warm. I can hold my finger on it for some time but it does eventually get too hot to touch. I should invest in a temp gun. I suppose it would be worth my time and money to put a heat sink and fan on the motor. Even if the temps it's reaching are safe, a fan will just keep it cooler, which never hurt anything.

    Very happy with it so far. Can't wait to get another batch of runs under my belt and get more comfortable with the truck.

  3. #43
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JIM33 View Post
    The motor after a run feels pretty warm. I can hold my finger on it for some time but it does eventually get too hot to touch. I should invest in a temp gun. I suppose it would be worth my time and money to put a heat sink and fan on the motor. Even if the temps it's reaching are safe, a fan will just keep it cooler, which never hurt anything.
    Don't give your expensive truck the finger. Protect your investment. Get a temp gauge right away. There are many different styles available. Here’s the one I use:

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXEMG5&P=ML


    Several experts have said that, as a general rule, all ESCs and motors should be able to be run without a fan or added heat sink. The exceptions to this rule: very hot weather, incorrect application (too small of a motor being used), poor air circulation, etc. Absent the exceptions, electronics will always be in the correct temperature range when geared correctly without the need for fans. Temperature is best controlled by gearing. Besides, fans are notorious for breaking or jamming while in the middle of running your truck. The broken fan apparatus reduces air flow creating even more heat, faster.

    According to the official Gearing Chart for Castle 1/10th Scale Motors: "Always check your motor temperature frequently on the first run after changing the gearing, motor or increasing battery voltage! Never let the motor get above 180F. Use an infrared temperature gun to monitor motor temps. If the motor starts to get close to 180 reduce the pinion size, increase the spur size, or reduce the pack voltage." 180 is also the upper limit for a Castle ESC.

    Newer and/or more advanced technology, for the most part, can handle higher temperatures, but higher temperatures will decrease the life span of the electronics.
    Last edited by jvogel; 07-17-2015 at 01:08 PM.
    Obstacle Magnet

  4. #44
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    I havnt messed with anything gear or tooth wise. If it's getting too hot (maybe it's fine i havnt checked) something is wrong. However, I'm sure grass has some to do with it. I'll pick up a temp gun and see what's up.

  5. #45
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    I have 4 battery tie down posts on order. Like everyone else, I can't stand the body sitting so ungodly high. I was able to find 4 posts for less than 7 bucks including shipping. No brainer in my book.

    Which fan/heat sink did you buy for the motor? Traxxas makes a fan for the esc correct?

  6. #46
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    Glad to hear that. 150 and 180 are both so extremely hot to the touch, that most can't tell the difference. 150 is great but 180 is damaging the electronics.

    Grass, especially the tall stuff, is exceptionally hard on the drivetrain so I avoid it like the plague.

    If you need a cart to help you with monitoring your electronics temperatures, just ask. Us old (not yet senile) experienced guys are here to help.
    Obstacle Magnet

  7. #47
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    Rpm A arms part number?

    It must be under 150 then cause I can touch it for a little while anyways.

    I'll be running a lot on mowed grass. Simply because it's what's around my house. There's a dirt rc track close by I'll drive to occasionally but it's mostly my yard. So maybe a fan will be useful.

    I've had very bad experiences with forums with my other hobbies. Most ppl are self centered and very rude when typing behind there computer. Mainly hunting and ice fishing forums. It's so bad, I don't even use them anymore. I was very hesitant coming on here and asking questions. It is a sigh of relief to find out you guys on here are not that way and truly are here to help in anyway you can.

    So I just wanna say thank you for that!
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 07-21-2015 at 10:16 PM.

  8. #48
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    Well, JIM33, by now you probably know that I am a great RC driver . . . that is, if hitting trees is considered great!

    Unfortunately, I too have run into folks on the forums that have given horrible information and have been very mean-spirited. The Dunning–Kruger effect is alive and well.

    I am starting an RC club in my area. I consider myself an ambassador for the hobby . . . or am I enabling an addiction? Heck, I'm a pusher! Well, at least this addition is a healthy one, when accompanied by contentment and humility.

    Here's a link to one of my role models: https://www.youtube.com/profile.php?do=editpassword/mudguyRC

    Jang on Ultimate RC is also a great RC enthusiast.


    Trees keep me humble.
    Obstacle Magnet

  9. #49
    RC Racer FMcamaroZ28's Avatar
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    OK, ill be completely honest for a second. I never used a temp gun.

    If you can touch the motor for more than a few seconds you are well below danger zone levels.

    Maybe it was just me, but I worried about it in the beginning and just eventually thought, if it burns out ill upgrade to a bigger motor. The traxxas/castle 2400 is a drop right in upgrade, you can even use the stock ESC for a bit if money is an issue.

    Its over 1 year old now and still runs like a champ in my p2de. I upgraded for the speed increase before the stock motor died. And i only ever ran on 2S.

    And definitely go for the body posts. Glad you like the truck!

  10. #50
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FMcamaroZ28 View Post
    If you can touch the motor for more than a few seconds you are well below danger zone levels.
    I would never ever recommend doing this. I'm just too scientific (nerdy).

    Quote Originally Posted by FMcamaroZ28 View Post
    ...just eventually thought, if it burns out ill upgrade to a bigger motor.
    And definitely go for the body posts. Glad you like the truck!
    Spoken like a true RC addict.

    Quote Originally Posted by FMcamaroZ28 View Post
    ...only ever ran on 2S.
    That'll keep the temps down usually.

    C'mon, FMcamaroZ28, time to get a temp gauge, graduate up to 3s and beyond, and feed the addiction.
    Obstacle Magnet

  11. #51
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    3s and beyond!? There's a beyond? Oh boy....

  12. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by JIM33 View Post
    3s and beyond!? There's a beyond? Oh boy....
    Generally most will conventional rc'est can and will use 6s in ones career. I'm sure one can go past that but I do not know the details as i am a nitro rc'est. My knowledge on electric is limited. But indo recall a decked out rustler I think was like 12s or somthing wild like that.
    2.5r Pede, 2-speed O.S.21tm rusty , 3.3T-maxx

  13. #53
    RC Racer FMcamaroZ28's Avatar
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    Like I said, I knew I would upgrade the motor. Currently there is a MMP/2400 combo in there. I am happy with the speed of it on 2S based off where I bash, which is always off road.

    If you aren't willing to upgrade it, then sure keep an eye on the temps.

    Personally I have other trucks where my speed need is satisfied. Once you get to 3S-4S on these things its so much about throttle to keep the wheels on the ground. Its almost like 2S is a form of traction control, hah.

    I honestly cant even imagine 6S in a stampede. Its a solution creating a problem.

  14. #54
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    So, with my NiMH 3000 mah battery I can get a run that lasts less than 10 minutes. With that said, I plug the battery in to the charger and have it set to stop charging at 3000 mah. The battery isn't even warm after a full charge. Can I charge it further? I'm not sure if my venom charger will automatically shut off when it's full so I've been just stopping it.

    I feel like the battery can take more of a charge but I'd hate to over charge it. Won't an over charged batt get fairly warm or hot? 7-8 minutes is hardly enough to enjoy. And my new batteries that r coming r only 5000 mah so those batteries will only last 10-15 minutes then at this rate. Kind of discouraging.

    What do you guys think? Am I using my battery to the fullest potential? I read the entire venom pro3 Manuel but couldn't find anything about it shutting down on its own after the batt is full.

  15. #55
    RC Racer FMcamaroZ28's Avatar
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    With these batteries you don't need to set a max mah or max time, the charger will know when to stop based off its voltage.

    And when you get the lipos, again it will be based off voltage. The Mah wont matter it will change based off how much you use it.

    Some mah gets lost due to heat. At the end of the charge, the NiMh batteries will be warm. Not hot.

  16. #56
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    I've had it for 4 years and I've never broken an a arm save the money for better driveshafts

  17. #57
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mxaustin View Post
    Generally most...will use 6s in ones career.
    I use 6s in my E-Revo all the time.
    Obstacle Magnet

  18. #58
    RC Racer FMcamaroZ28's Avatar
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    6S in a stampede though?

    That's silly.

  19. #59
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    I've watched countless videos of stampedes with 3s and the majority of them can't control the thing and even if they can keep the wheels down, the truck is spinning out of control and sliding all over the place.

  20. #60
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    My MMP/2400 powered P4de on 3s does just fine on my tight, technical track. I even have the throttle mashed all the way down for a fraction of a second in some sections.

    Obstacle Magnet

  21. #61
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    2s Lipo batts showed up today. Threw one on the charger at 1C. After it was full I put it in the truck, turned on my LVC and letter rip.

    I didn't time it but I bet the run time was at least twice as long as my nimh batts. The upgrade in power was very noticeable and I found myself flipping my truck back onto its wheels often. Mostly do to the extra traction my lawn provides and the unevenness of it. With all that said, I do have a few questions...

    1. My LVC did in fact shut everything down but after I pulled the battery and checked the levels they read 3.1 and 3.36. That was discouraging. My first run with a brand new lipo and I over ran it passed the recommended 3.5. Will this hurt the battery? Should I be stopping it before the LVC does from now on?

    2. When balance charging what rate or amps should I be charging at?

    3. When charging back up to storage when I anticipate putting my truck away for a days what charging rate should I be using?

    4. After running the entire lipo battery my motor was too hot to touch. Which fan and heat sink works best with the stock traxxas motor?

    5. Last but not least, I don't anticipate using my stock NiMH battery any more..How should I be storing it?

    Very excited about my 2s lipo batteries. Can't wait to get back out there!!

    Oh and my new batts are 2s 5000mah 40c 37w.

  22. #62
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by FMcamaroZ28 View Post
    6S in a stampede though?

    That's silly.
    Oh c'mon 6s isn't that bad in the pede I've ran that many times. After converting it to a roadster lol. Now it runs in my gt8/rally. It is a hand full but fun watching that little thing fly right by you. Vroooooooooooom

  23. #63
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    JIM33,

    1. That’s odd. VXL-3s ESC are notorious for LVD way too early.

    2. 1C/amp hour is best. So a 5000mAh pack (5000 milli-amp hour = 1 amp hour) should be charged at 5A. For a 4100mAh pack the charge would be 4.1A, etc.

    3. I use my packs all the time. So I just charge them all the way up an store them in the fridge in the previously never used vegetable bin. I’ve never gone long enough without using them to consider storage charging.

    4. First off. “Hot to the touch” is meaningless. You will need a temp gauge. Once you know the exact temps, you are better equipped to know if another step is needed. I don’t use fans or heat-sinks. I gear my truck according to the temps of my electronics.

    5. You could do what I did. I stored my full depleted NiMH pack in the trash.

    If you need a temp chart or a gearing chart, just ask and I'll PM them to you.
    Obstacle Magnet

  24. #64
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    Haha. I like that last answer the best. It's to new to store in the trash but I'm sure it'll get there after I'm sick of looking at it. Unless friends or nephews or someone wants to try it I can slip the nimh they'd never know haha.

    Anywho...run number 2 on 2s lipo didnt finish. I had my first break down. I lost power to the back wheels. It looks like the little ti y pin fell out of one now the axles? Cappy part of it was I didn't even hit a tree or do any cart wheels. Just randomly lost power. Nothing appears to be broken just not attached at the knuckle like the other side is.

    Oh well. I'm not upset. I fully expected things to start happening. Should I find a pin or replace the entire thing? What's been your guys experience in the rear end?

  25. #65
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    So Jim, you lost an axle pin out of the plastic hub? Your wheels weren't tightened down enough or your plastic hub is worn or broken? If all is well, just replace the pin.

    I've replaced all my plastic hexes with aluminum. That way, I can really crank down on the serrated nylon lock nut on the wheel and not have that happen. I would still blame a tree though.
    Obstacle Magnet

  26. #66
    RC Racer FMcamaroZ28's Avatar
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    The lipo's wont be permanently damaged. You should double check that LVD was on, it should have cut off way earlier than that. I would imagine after a few cycles the batteries will be better balanced at the end of a run.

    It would be beneficial to the battery to stop the truck prior to LVD. You will get used to the amount of runtime you should be getting after a few runs. Much longer than the NiMH.

    If you don't have one already, a small cell checker such as this one should be used several times throughout a run. $3 shipped free i would buy a few.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/1S-6S-LED-Lo...item2c879ca63b

    Your charger will only do 1A for storage mode, so use that. but ideally you could do upto 5A like a charge.

    ---

    As for your repair, Its your call.

    Unfortunately you cant just buy the pin. You need the whole half shaft.

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAVNN&P=7

    You could grab a new rear driveshaft for $9 or $18 a pair.

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXAVNM&P=ML

    Or you can upgrade to MIPs or Teknos and pretty much never have to worry about them again, for around $50 a pair. (check out tower coupons)

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXBPRN&P=ML
    Last edited by FMcamaroZ28; 07-21-2015 at 06:40 AM.

  27. #67
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FMcamaroZ28 View Post
    Unfortunately you cant just buy the pin. You need the whole half shaft.
    I think you forgot about part # TRA2754 stub axle pins!!! Less than a dollar!!!

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJJ55&P=7
    Obstacle Magnet

  28. #68
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    Upon further investigation the shaft is junk. The pin is gone and a half the shaft and some sleeve looking thing that was over encasing the shaft. I'll try and pot a pic.

  29. #69
    RC Racer FMcamaroZ28's Avatar
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    Jvogel, they don't use those anymore. They use a cross section joint pin, which i am assuming he lost.

    https://traxxas.com/explodedviews/St...hafts-Assembly

    See that page. Its part of the half shafts now.

    EDIT: rereading, if that can work JIM, then go with that if you still have the cross pin. You might have just gotten a bum pin.

    2nd EDIT: post above me made this post semi-unnecessary.
    Last edited by FMcamaroZ28; 07-21-2015 at 01:17 PM.

  30. #70
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JIM33 View Post
    I lost power to the back wheels. It looks like the little ti y pin fell out of one now the axles?
    Huh, I thought that gibberish meant he lost a stub axle pin.

    So, you're saying he lost a pin to a differential output yoke?

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAVNK&P=7

    He said he lost power to the back wheels.

    Kinda like Liam Neson hearing Jody Foster talk in the movie Nell. Okay, it's not that bad.
    Obstacle Magnet

  31. #71

  32. #72
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    Thanks. A picture paints a thousand words. You lost the metal u-joint that articulates between the shaft and the stub axle. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAVNN&P=7

    Don't worry. Your P4de will be chewing through lots of those until you go Tekno.

    FMcamaroZ28 paid better attention to what you wrote: "...not attached at the knuckle like the other side is..." My mind just locked up at: "...the little ti y pin..." I'm good like that.
    Obstacle Magnet

  33. #73
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    Thx. In my madness when typing that message ti y = tiny. Lol

  34. #74
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    It would have been easier on my brain had you said, "...the little ti y silvar ball wit 4 posts o it."

    I never make typographicval erroers.
    Obstacle Magnet

  35. #75
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    Haha too fun y. Anywho. Tell me more about these Tekno shafts. Just to a quick look on their site didn't see much. Although Web browsing on my phone while at work doesn't always work so well :/

  36. #76
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jvogel's Avatar
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    I have both the Tekno (Sl4sh & Sla2h) and Traxxas (P4de) metal shafts. The price for each is about the same.

    The Traxxas metal shafts are a direct drop in. All stock and aftermarket parts work with them. E.g.: you can use stock Traxxas or STRC aluminum carriers.

    The Tekno have ultra beefy plastic carriers with bigger bearings. [Also, it is best to buy their aluminum hexes so your wheels will be happy. I learned this the hard way.] You must use their products with them. E.g.: you have to get their 17mm hex adapters if you want to use 17mm wheels. Obviously, aluminum carriers are out of the equation altogether.

    The aluminum hex thing is no big deal because I very, very highly recommend using aluminum hexes on all the wheels that get power. You can really crank down on the wheel nut that way.

    All that said, I'm still not decided as to which of the two is better.

    I didn't consider MIP drive shafts because they are like a tank: practically indestructible but extremely heavy.
    Obstacle Magnet

  37. #77
    RC Racer FMcamaroZ28's Avatar
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    I went with the MIP shafts. I love them. Still look like and perform like they did when I installed them. The teknos are great from what I hear too but when I was buying I had bad luck with the dogbone setup on another truck so went with MIP.

    If you're thinking of going that route you will start considering 17mm hexes and better tires too.

    The beginning of an expensive road.

  38. #78
    RC Racer FMcamaroZ28's Avatar
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    Tekno rears: http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr6852x...-4x4-rear-6mm/

    Tekno fronts: http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr6851x...4x4-front-6mm/

    MIP rears: http://miponline.com/store/mip11109.html

    MIP fronts: http://miponline.com/store/mip11110.html


    Let us know what you are thinking and we can make further suggestions.

  39. #79
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    I was gunna ask, whats next? I don't want more speed I don't need 3s, bigger faster motor or anything else like that (yet).

    Is there anything performance wise worth upgrading? Better stability, maybe shocks or something. Is there anything that'll help me keep the tires pointed down? Haha (other than just getting better at driving)

  40. #80
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    Sway bars!!!! oh man sway bars. traxxas part # 6898

    You can experiment with different shock oils and springs. When you start upgrading you add weight and will need to stiffen the suspension.

    You will want new tires very soon. There's a lot of options there.

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