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  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by tamirlankri View Post
    why do they blow out alot? and which company do you reccommend? and can anyone give me all the part numbers you need to convert to summit driveshafts? i saw that is not just the shaft so what else do you need?
    You can also get the complete shafts from dollarhobbyz. Just compare pricing see what's cheaper.

  2. #42
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    If the revo 3.3 has the same size shafts why not get the traxxas upgrade for 50 dollars?

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by L_vick65 View Post
    If the revo 3.3 has the same size shafts why not get the traxxas upgrade for 50 dollars?
    what has it got to do with the revo 3.3?

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by soundmaster View Post
    what has it got to do with the revo 3.3?
    Driveshafts because the revo has traxxas upgrades

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by L_vick65 View Post
    Driveshafts because the revo has traxxas upgrades
    The e-revo also have traxxas upgrade. But not everyone wants metal CVD.

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by IllusionX View Post
    The e-revo also have traxxas upgrade. But not everyone wants metal CVD.
    True but if you're going to spend 50 Might as well get it

  7. #47
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    That blower will limit your body choices.

    My emaxx runs 140-150 degrees usually.

    Get good diff bearings and pack them full of marine grease or cow rc udder butter

  8. #48
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    so heating is not a big issue on the erbe? even on hot conditions?
    and i can get cvd's but i dont want to because where i live getting a spare cvd is much harder than getting summit shaft and from what i seen traxxas cvd's can bend like butter...

    EDIT: i think ill go with mip driveshafts, they are on ebay for 38$ a set so its like 20$ more than summit but much stronger...
    is there any complains on them other than the price?
    Last edited by tamirlankri; 07-21-2015 at 08:41 PM.

  9. #49
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    ohh and i looked up in boca for some pinion bearings, and i dident quite get which one to get the ceramic one or just any one that they say is for off-road or what?
    btw this is the one i found (tell me if its the right size): http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...-SMR126C2YSNB2

  10. #50
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    I would not get ceramic except for the motor bearings. If you go to boca's website, you can type in the dimension, and select from there.

  11. #51

  12. #52
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    i mean the pinion bearings, thats what you guys said so... do i need ceramic ones for that or just any boca bearing?
    and what size bearings do i need for the motor? and does it really make a difference?
    Last edited by tamirlankri; 07-22-2015 at 07:39 AM.

  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by tamirlankri View Post
    i mean the pinion bearings, thats what you guys said so... do i need ceramic ones for that or just any boca bearing?
    and what size bearings do i need for the motor? and does it really make a difference?
    I am missing something here, do you mean pinion gears as there are no pinion bearings that exist (unless you are talking about some transmission gears with the bearings). If so then we are talking about two different things all together. What excactly or bearings are you trying to change and where in the truck?

    Also the MIP 11101 are awsome but they are normaly at 70$ a pair from their site and also the lhs, just make sure that you got a genuine product of eBay if you are going that route.

    I voucch for both the traxxas steel velocity and MIP as I have both on two differnt rtrucks and no problems at all, and I bash mine to the extremes, fortunately i have had better luck then some on the traxxas cvds.....no probs here.
    Live life to the fullest

  14. #54
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    the seller is a big one with alot of votes and way more items on ebay... and for 38$ i think its better than summit set @@
    also do i need the center ones or the driveshafts are the only ones to break?

    and idk on the site it said diff pinion bearings, i seen a video on youtube about after 15 hours on 6s and what parts break out and he said one of his diffs blew because the pinion bearings blew which caused the pinion to grind on the diff and destroyed the gears there aswell...
    Last edited by tamirlankri; 07-22-2015 at 08:26 AM.

  15. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jezza View Post
    I am missing something here, do you mean pinion gears as there are no pinion bearings that exist (unless you are talking about some transmission gears with the bearings). If so then we are talking about two different things all together. What excactly or bearings are you trying to change and where in the truck?

    Also the MIP 11101 are awsome but they are normaly at 70$ a pair from their site and also the lhs, just make sure that you got a genuine product of eBay if you are going that route.

    I voucch for both the traxxas steel velocity and MIP as I have both on two differnt rtrucks and no problems at all, and I bash mine to the extremes, fortunately i have had better luck then some on the traxxas cvds.....no probs here.
    He is talking about the bearings inside the diff case that are hold the pinion gear. 6x12x4 mm

  16. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by soundmaster View Post
    He is talking about the bearings inside the diff case that are hold the pinion gear. 6x12x4 mm
    Oh those dudes, I leave mine stock as I have never had any probems with them or gett eddys from the lhs, I would get a boca one only if I was serious racer, where it makes the difference.
    Live life to the fullest

  17. #57
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    i guess ill just get the 10 pack for 10$, its worth it to keep a couple of spares because its harder for me to get spares from the lhs
    and do i need mip center shafts or stock hold up?

  18. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jezza View Post
    Oh those dudes, I leave mine stock as I have never had any probems with them or gett eddys from the lhs, I would get a boca one only if I was serious racer, where it makes the difference.
    This is a typical issue then you run bigger heavier tieres. I blew rear and front and replaced with better bearings.

    Quote Originally Posted by tamirlankri View Post
    i guess ill just get the 10 pack for 10$, its worth it to keep a couple of spares because its harder for me to get spares from the lhs
    and do i need mip center shafts or stock hold up?
    Center drive you can leave stock for now. Just get the Summit drive shafts and you are good.

  19. #59
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    i am getting mip driveshafts, on ebay i can get full summit for about 55$ while i can get mip for like 75$ so i think its worth it to get mip...

    EDIT: k i got the mip driveshafts and the 10 pack boca bearings, i think its worth the money to get better steel shafts and bearings...
    Last edited by tamirlankri; 07-22-2015 at 10:05 AM.

  20. #60
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    Like Wise , my diffs have not failed me (stock0 so the xxl2 diffs that I have in my box since last year are just sitting for now, but then again i am not a 6s contsnat person, but bash hard on 4s.

    I definetely like the traxxas steel velocity in my centre and the MIP on all fours as I had mentioned and move the traxxas steel velocity drive shafts onto my revo 3.3.....

    I get these orange sealed bearings for a nice price at my lhs, so so far all works well for me...they do not break , blow out no rust on me so far....fingures crossed (but it hs been months) so I am happy with the set up....now I have the XL2 in but still with the 2200 so wil wait and see.....how they hold as soon as I get time to bash hard
    Live life to the fullest

  21. #61
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    well i am getting the brushless edition so it is going to get the most power on 4s and maybe 5s at the begining but well see how it holds
    and btw i am most likely going to pick it up today, take it for a spin and break-in the clutch, ohh and i need to use the nimh in series or parallel for the break-in?

  22. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by tamirlankri View Post
    well i am getting the brushless edition so it is going to get the most power on 4s and maybe 5s at the begining but well see how it holds
    and btw i am most likely going to pick it up today, take it for a spin and break-in the clutch, ohh and i need to use the nimh in series or parallel for the break-in?
    You will have the 3 way connector to run it in serries, (two bateries to give more voltage but same run time depending on the Mah of your batteries)

    In parralel it will give more Mah (more run time) but the same volatge.

    We all run in serries , i run 2 x2s 4200mah 45c batteries and traxxas 2x3s 5000Mah 25c batteries when going 6s.

    Also read up on the clutch break in etc (important, too many people melt theirs on the trial there after)

    With the brushless MM2, i beleive it will not even arm on 3s, so best in serries with 2x 2s batteries
    Live life to the fullest

  23. #63
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    i just got it, and i see it comes stock with series cable on the esc so i guess you break-in using series...
    the batteries are charging right now, waiting for the first run (though i did run it for like 10 seconds to check everything is working in the lhs), and i have a couple of questions about the charging, first of all how do you use the stock charger? like its dc and there is not converter... and the second is my other normal charger can charge nimh but it dosent ask for cell count is that normal?

  24. #64
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    wow, i did the first run with the nimh for break-in and this is amazing, so fast even on these crap nimh batteries (i love lipo), most of the run was pretty smooth with no clutch problems, at the end i noticed it slipped too much so i stopped and after waiting and seeing it still slips i closed it a little (idk how much) and it worked, sadly it was the end of the batterie just when i found a cool dirt field (was running on the road)

  25. #65
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    What does breaking in the slipper clutch actually do, Physically? I think it just wears the pads evenly flat on the metal disk. Any other input?

  26. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Emaxx Racer View Post
    What does breaking in the slipper clutch actually do, Physically? I think it just wears the pads evenly flat on the metal disk. Any other input?
    have a read of this

    Quote Originally Posted by 87 GN View Post
    sorry now I remember were it is........
    http://traxxas.com/sites/default/fil...m_091112_0.pdf

    • Slipper Clutch Break-In
    The E-Maxx Brushless Edition’s slipper clutch requires a break-in
    procedure to ensure consistent operation with the extremely high power
    output of the included Castle Creations Mamba Monster brushless motor
    system. The slipper clutch has been adjusted to the correct initial setting
    for break-in. Follow these steps to ensure maximum performance and life
    from your slipper clutch:
    1. Make your first runs with the model using the stock gearing and 6- or
    7-cell NiMH packs, or 2S LiPo packs.
    2. Drive normally. The slipper clutch should slip momentarily when
    accelerating aggressively on high-traction surfaces (you will hear a
    whirring sound when the slipper clutch allows the spur gear to slip).
    3. If excessive slippage is noticed (slipping that lasts for more than 3
    seconds under hard acceleration), or the slipper clutch slips anytime
    the throttle is applied at any lever, stop driving immediately. Let the
    slipper clutch cool for 10-15 minutes. When the clutch is cool, testdrive
    the vehicle again. If you still experience excessive slippage, allow
    the slipper to cool once more, then tighten the slipper nut turn (turn
    the nut clockwise) and repeat the break-in process. Do not adjust the
    slipper clutch before it has cooled.
    4. Continue to run the vehicle and monitor slipper clutch performance as
    noted above, and readjust if necessary. When the run is complete, the
    slipper should be fully broken in.
    After break-in, the slipper clutch is ready for any type of driving, with any
    batteries up to 6S Lipo. Set the slipper clutch so it only slips for a moment
    (if at all) under hard acceleration in high-traction conditions. If excessive
    slippage is noticed, stop driving immediately. Continuing to drive with
    a loose slipper will cause damage to the slipper unit. You must let the
    slipper cool down to ambient temperature before tightening the slipper
    nut and resuming driving.
    Live life to the fullest

  27. #67
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    That didn't answer my question, but it's ok. I've never done this, and have never had any slipper problems other than melting running in sand, and crushing the cast steel backplate

  28. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by tamirlankri View Post
    i am getting a new ERBE in a week or two aswell as some 2s and 3s batteries and i want to know what stuff is reccommended to upgrade before the first run or what tends to break quickly, i am only visiting the us for like a month and i dont want to spend it waiting for parts @@

    thank you
    Also keep in mind, once it's used, it's yours.

  29. #69
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    well i got my lipos and gave them a run yesterday, started with nimh and when they finished i got 4s at the park, there were some ponds so i enjoyed the waterproof aspect and had some "splashes" but after i returned home and washed it i prepared to go with 5s on the road to see how it is and found out my switch is shorted, dident really matter coz it just turned on when i connecter both batteries but is there a waterproof switch or a way to waterproof this one? like i am dissapointed from traxxas and cc cmon you made the whole electronics waterproof and than the little switch which is totaly worthless you dident...
    so is there something i can do to prevent that coz i am planing in running in wet conditions in the future...

  30. #70
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    To make it waterproof, there is no way. You can cut off the switch and solder the wires together, that gives the same effect as the switch always being turned on. And also, you have to break in new lipos for the first 10-12 runs

  31. #71
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    What? Break-in lipos?!

    Please elaborate...

  32. #72
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    You run it easy the first 10 runs, much like breaking in a nitro engine. It ensures better performance and cell balance

  33. #73
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    I don't think that is necessary IMO. Pulling 100+ amps out of a brand new 5000mah 40C lipo should cause little to no damaged compared to draining it down to 3v every time.

  34. #74
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    well i dident pound on my lipos too badly, it was just a stroll in the park with some easy accelaretion on grass with stock wheels so i dont think it was too bad plus when it got to 3.2v a cell i imidetly stopped, btw is there a way to change the lipo cutoff without removing the esc completly? i do have the castle link thing but i am too lazy to take it all apart right now...
    and can someone give me all the sizes for the diff shims? like i have a merv and it only requires 1-2 shims on the side but here there are like 10 ways to shim you diff...
    any instructions would be appriciated.
    and sorry for the bad english btw, i am too tired and short on time to care...

  35. #75
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    ohh and i decided to go with trencher x's at the start, if i see they are too gripy i would cut them off and get badlands but where i am right now i need ALOT of traction with no speed so they are pretty safe... and they are the same size as stock right? like both are 3.8 so they shouldent be that bad, and i am not planing to run them on 6s, i tried 5s yesterday and it was OP aswell so most of the time i would drive the nimh and 4s...
    and can anyone explain me what different weight diff oil's do? and what is a good weight to get? i am doing a roundup order from amain so i want to try get everything i need in a single order...

  36. #76
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    For the ESC link I have an extension going into the throttle channel so that I can easily connect the field card or link to the esc without opening upthe rx box from the outside.

    Lighter wieght oil allows you more dampening on the shocks and much more fluid and more suspension travel. Heavier oil will do the opposite and increase your ride height.....it comes down to your personal choice, weight of the truck and the terrain you are on, I like 50w on all mine for my everyday bashing ......

    By the way I am njoying the badlands......I probably could get away with the trenchers but found them to big...
    Live life to the fullest

  37. #77
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    Thicker weight diff oil kills cornering speed. Thinner diff oil kills acceleration. Pick your poison. But for stock erevo diffs ID say 100k in the front diff (where the spider gears are) and 30-50k in the rear

  38. #78
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    ohh so i think ill stay with stock diff oils for now, i really like the handling right now and i want to keep it...
    and 50wt sounds like a good middle, that i will definetly order.

  39. #79
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    Stock is grease I believe, which equals 1k diff oil

  40. #80
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    ohh and i have a small question, will mip cvd's and lst diff work together? i already have the mip and i am thinking about upgrading to lst diffs...
    ohh and today i took it to a very big stroll, used 2x5s and the stock nimh and its amazing (not the nimh bleh) on 5s i am doing standing backflips, i hoped on 6s to see what happens but i already saw it was too much on 5s...

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