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  1. #1
    RC Enthusiast
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    Best aluminum castor and steering blocks?

    The only aluminum castor and steering blocks i can find are integy and atomik rc, ive heard that integy is a horrible company, is atomik worth it or no?

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    um.....


  3. #3
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    Its says that it is for the slash 4x4, and the steering block is different from the stampede

  4. #4
    RC Racer FMcamaroZ28's Avatar
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    traxxas ones are the best. Its the same part #s for the slash

    part numbers 6832x and 6837x

    I just bought them off DHZ and got all the bearings too.

    http://www.dollarhobbyz.com/traxxas/...ng-blocks.html

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    That's one thing I like about the slash hcg, stampede. They pretty much share the same parts. Wheels/tires, chassis, center drive shaft, rx box, body, front body mount, front and rear bumpers are the only things that seperate a the 2 part wise. When I searched for parts I always look in the slash area but made sure it was not for the lcg on some parts

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    I am using the HR C hubs for my hcg slash 4x4 mt and the traxxas carriers all arround. XO1 carriers are the preffered choice by lots of membres.

    FLM C hubs too are very strong, used them on a 2wd pede and wow....is all I can say, quality at its best
    Live life to the fullest

  7. #7
    RC Champion OlorinTharkun's Avatar
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    I haven't looked for 4x4 but in 2wd, STRC makes good aluminum parts.
    What broke, uh, needs upgrading now?

  8. #8
    RC Racer FredR54's Avatar
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    Thanks
    Fred

  9. #9
    RC Champion skmfkr's Avatar
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    those pictured above will fit on a slash or stampede 4x4

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier
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    Do the strc rear hub carriers come with the same 3.5 toe in as the traxxas ones?
    40+ RC's, 4 = Traxxas. Doing this since the 80's.

  11. #11
    RC Competitor
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    I'm running rpm but i think i wanna switch to alum... u guys think the strc are worth getn over the traxxas? seems there double the price

  12. #12
    RC Champion skmfkr's Avatar
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    id just get the trx. i actually bought mine used on ebay. figured they were gonna get some scratches eventually. i might as well save some money. i just got c blocks since. ive got the tekno hub carriers. ive only broke them once and just got a new tekno plastin ones again
    Last edited by skmfkr; 07-30-2015 at 07:36 PM.

  13. #13
    RC Qualifier JohnnyHildo's Avatar
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    ^ agreed. my traxxas aluminum parts have stood up well and fit perfectly.
    sl4sh 2200 / p4de 2400

  14. #14
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    So i did end up getting the traxxas steering and caster blocks. Sadly, it did not fix the issue i was hoping it would but i wouldve gotten aluminum ones eventually anyways lol

  15. #15
    RC Qualifier JohnnyHildo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeff fa fa View Post
    So i did end up getting the traxxas steering and caster blocks. Sadly, it did not fix the issue i was hoping it would but i wouldve gotten aluminum ones eventually anyways lol
    yes because your binding issue is in your steering bellcrank. i would consider pulling it all apart and reassembling.
    none the less, the caster blocks and c hubs are good places to use aluminum.
    sl4sh 2200 / p4de 2400

  16. #16
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeff fa fa View Post
    So i did end up getting the traxxas steering and caster blocks. Sadly, it did not fix the issue i was hoping it would but i wouldve gotten aluminum ones eventually anyways lol
    Just exactly what kind of issue are you having? I have the atomic at one point but the quality was about the same as Integy. The traxxas ones are the best you could ever get eventhough theirs a little bit of play up front but with longer e-maxx pin and teflon washers will take the play away.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedro Penduko View Post
    Just exactly what kind of issue are you having? I have the atomic at one point but the quality was about the same as Integy. The traxxas ones are the best you could ever get eventhough theirs a little bit of play up front but with longer e-maxx pin and teflon washers will take the play away.
    My steering is completley screwed over, i can fully turn one direction but hardley turn to the other, but after finding out that the caster and steering blocks, helps but didnt eliminate the issue, i went ahead and bought the strc bellcrank, its supposed to come in tomorrow (the 4th) so after installing that i will see how evreything turns out and will come back with an update

  18. #18
    RC Qualifier JohnnyHildo's Avatar
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    i run an strc and would advise that you don't tighten the pillar or drag link screws down until they bottom out or you'll find binding issues there too. mine are on a couple of turns short of bottomed and i recommend blue loctite on all of the screws as well.
    sl4sh 2200 / p4de 2400

  19. #19
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    So i installed the strc aluminum bellcrank, no luck, but i can definitley tell the binding is occuring withing the bellcrank butbi cannot determine what exactly is causing it. Any specific things i should check into?

  20. #20
    RC Qualifier JohnnyHildo's Avatar
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    well if you replaced the steering bellcranks than everything in them should be brand new. however, you do re-use the stock bellcrank bearings.... did you check them? if it isn't the bearings i would remove the links to your caster blocks and individually rotate them by hand to see if anything is hanging up. there are also instances of people finding the aluminum to aluminum parts sticking but on a brand new part i can't see that happening yet.
    past this it is out of my hands as there aren't really that many parts to go through and assuming you've installed everything correctly shouldn't be difficult to diagnose an issues cause.
    sl4sh 2200 / p4de 2400

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnnyHildo View Post
    well if you replaced the steering bellcranks than everything in them should be brand new. however, you do re-use the stock bellcrank bearings.... did you check them? if it isn't the bearings i would remove the links to your caster blocks and individually rotate them by hand to see if anything is hanging up. there are also instances of people finding the aluminum to aluminum parts sticking but on a brand new part i can't see that happening yet.
    past this it is out of my hands as there aren't really that many parts to go through and assuming you've installed everything correctly shouldn't be difficult to diagnose an issues cause.
    After taking out the the toe links and moving the bellcrank, it moved smoothly, but ince i move the tires it was very tight. So took the steering block out, and it looks like i got some loc tite on the non threaded part of the screw, but after removing excess loctite, it seems to all work smoothly. But wont know for sure until my replacment stub axle comes in tomorrow (the 4th meant the 3rd last time lol). So hopefully everything will run great! Thanks for all the helps guys!!

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