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  1. #41
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    You should upgrade to proline protrack arms that are wider and mip makes wider Cvds for if you upgrade like that or if you already have mip Cvds then you can buy the one extended part
    Traxxas Stampede 4x4 VXL, Traxxas Electric 4Tec

  2. #42
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    Okay, I have four packs through the new setup and I have a few thoughts/questions/concerns:
    -The power is awesome but I think I've moved the barrier to instant speed from the motor/power train to the physics of friction.
    -Running the stock S1 BFGs I found that although I can wheelie if I use the throttle to "bounce" the front end up, I cannot do it on demand like with my P2de. Of course there's a lot of reasons for that but I think my biggest issue is getting sufficient traction.
    -The stock tires also seem to "unglue" themselves pretty quickly and I had to retighten the wheel nuts after every pack (they were all getting loose, never had that happen on 2s).
    -I think my 2-yr old 4300 mah 40C is being pushed past it's limits. After three packs it has swelled noticeably. What do you guys think? Old pack? Too low mah/C?
    -Running on 4s (with two 2s packs I'm series) is wild but I get a lot of spinoff and just can't put the power to the ground like I'd like. Also, when I gun the throttle, the truck really shakes. I think I probably have a wheel or two out of balance.
    -Geared 14/54 running very hard on 3s the SW8 ESC got all the way up to 100 degrees with 90 degree ambient! How about that! The motor hit 125. On 4s doing speed runs(well at least to the extent I could due to ballooning) and some 1/2-3/4 throttle bashing, ESC got up to 130 degrees & motor 160 degrees.

    All for now, gotta go make dinner for the kids. Please let me know what you think about these first observations and if you have any tips to get better traction - other than new

  3. #43
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    I put a 3s & 4s pack through it tonight after work in the parking lot and I think I got one of the issues fixed. I thought more about it and figured out that my slipper clutch must be too loose since I hadn't adjusted it from when I was running 2s with the 3800kv. I adjusted it to about a quarter turn back from locked and it made a huge difference and now I'm getting those wheelies I was looking for.

    In my earlier post I said that I was geared 14/54. This was an error. After 2 years of running that gearing I guess I went on auto-pilot. The 2650kv motor came with an 18t pinion so I'm running 18/54.

    With the body on and a 4s battery inside, the truck weighs 6 lb 13 oz. I didn't weigh it before the upgrades but it definitely feels heavier to pick up.

    This whole thing has reminded me of when I first got LiPo batteries for my P2de. 2s seemed awesome and 3s was crazy. Same thing now with 3s & 4s. On 4s I find that I really have to exercise some restraint or I'll wheelie it right back onto the roof. Also good to note that there are no brakes when you're sliding down the road on your roof! It wouldn't be the end of the world but when the truck is doing 30-40 mph when it flips...

    That 3s battery is still pretty warm when I finish a run. And it doesn't last long either. I measured the temperature at 126F when I finished tonight's run with 90 ambient. That seems warmer than it should be. What do you guys see for battery temps on hot days?

    No more pics or movies for now but I'll get some up, hopefully by the end of the week before I go on vacation. I'm going to try to get it out to that outdoor track tomorrow at lunch. It's notorious for poor traction so that will put my trigger finger to the test. Maybe I can get my buddy to take some video.

  4. #44
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Its not your father's rc anymore,lol.
    It takes some time to get used to the power curve, your throttle control will improve more with time.
    I used to get laughed at a lot when I said you can have to much power, what do you think.
    As far as your lipo it may well be working over time, at its best 172amp in its hay day, shelling that out continuously may be a bit much.
    I wont run under 5200mah 50c with my 2200 and 2650 motors.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  5. #45
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    Good to know on the battery parameters, I'm going to keep switching between 3s & 4s until I find the sweet spot, then I'll be getting a new battery. I also plan to compare my old 3s with my buddy's newer & larger capacity 3s & compare battery temps, runtime, & performance between the two.

    I think there is definitely such a thing as having too much power but it's all relative. For me, I'm sure that I'll never be interested in 5 or 6s but there are some who might want even more. I'm also sure that when I let my siblings drive my truck at the family reunion next week, they will be doing so on 2s!

    I went to the outdoor track yesterday and saw that they had made some changes since I was there last. Now we run in the opposite direction and they made all the jumps bigger. I had a few bad landings and I think the combination of all that power + heavier truck + a few sideways landings = two broken wheels. They were on my 12mm-hex trenchers mounted on desperado wheels. The part of the wheel that gets sandwiched between the hex & the lock nut tore almost completely out of both of the rear wheels. Here is a picture of the worst of the two, I stuck a hex wrench through what is supposed to be connected:



    When I got back to the office I put some S1 BFG's on there and after work I ran through two packs (1 3s, 1 4s) in the parking lot with lots of hard starts & braking. That ESC just laughs at everything I throw at it. Ambient temps yesterday were 100 & the ESC got all the up to 122! The motor got up to 155 so I guess I know which one is the limiting factor.

    Only thing I don't like is that those wheel nuts seem to loosen themselves & I have to stop to tighten them after every battery pack or sooner. Also, the stock wheels are kind of proving to be not up to the challenge of the bigger power plant & heavier truck. Overall, I am loving this setup. Tons of power and no worries about temps getting out of hand.

  6. #46
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    Oh yeah, one more update. I got my Hot Racing 17mm adapters (10mm offset). I don't have any 17mm wheels yet but some are on their way via ebay. I plan to burn through all my 12mm wheels first. At this rate, it won't take long. I stripped two wheels and broke two more yesterday alone...


  7. #47
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    If your going to use your 17mm adapters this wont mater, if not drop a few bucks (about $8 of them) on these.
    Not only will they not come loose sometimes you need both hands on he nut driver to get them off.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  8. #48
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    I was thinking the same thing, billy-bones. I read where you recommended them in another thread and was wondering if that would help. The ones I have are serrated like those, but don't have as large of a bearing area, nor are the serrations as pronounced. I think I'll get those to use while I burn through the rest of my 12mm wheels, then I'll put them on the P2de. Thanks!

  9. #49
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    Do you like the aluminum steering bell crank? Is it stock on the ultimate edition? My plastic setups suits well but just curious. I know the aluminum one on my emaxx didn't work very well.

  10. #50
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    I have a Platinum Edition and the bell cranks were plastic. When I was trying to get the slop out of the front end steering, I went with the STRC aluminum set and they have worked well, no complaints.

  11. #51
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    A little update,
    I was on vacation for a week and didn't get a chance to bash (or post) at all. But over the weekend I did get four packs through it (two 3s & two 4s) and pretty much ruined a set of stock S1 tires. Today at my lunch break at work, my buddy and I headed over to the track for some bashing and after a few laps I heard a different sound coming from the truck and realized that I only had rear wheel drive. The culprit? Broken center drive shaft. Here is how it's supposed to look:


    And here's how the other (broken) end looks:


    In case you can't tell from the picture, the inside splines are worn completely off so the shaft was spinning but not translating any of that power to the front diff. This was my second driveshaft, an STRC aluminum shaft. I still had my first one which I re-installed to complete the bash session. So now I'm thinking it's time to get the Tekno Big Bone. I just ordered it online and should have it Wednesday. When I get it, I'll post up some pictures. I'm kind of excited about it because with it, and the pending switch to 17mm adapters, I will have upgraded every part of the drive train and "should" be free of problems for a while.

    Below is a video my 7-yr-old daughter took of me pavement bashing at a business park over the weekend. I was able to pull off some really good power slides and I was trying to video those. But of course, with the camera rolling I just ended up with a few traction-rolls. I'll try to get some better videos up when I have time:


  12. #52
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    I think the last of my upgrades is complete. I replaced the destroyed center drive shaft with the Tekno Big Bone. Here it is out of the packaging:


    I used all four of the rubber washers, two at each cup, and still have some play back & forth. Here it is installed:


    I finally burned out all but four of my 12mm hex tires & put on the HR 17mm hex adapters (10mm offset). They have a really nice design and look great. I used a ton of locktight on the barrel screw that holds them to the 12mm metal MIP hex. That would be the only possible place for failure (if a barrel screw happened to come loose). They're looking great:



    Since my wallet is a bit lighter after all these upgrades, I went cheap on the new wheels/tires. I found some super-cheap pre-mounted buggy wheels/tires on ebay and got a couple sets. The blocky ones resemble Badlands but I can tell that the rubber is harder. The other ones have more of a pin-head type tread. Here is a comparison of the two:


    I have only put about 5 minutes on the Badland-type tires in the parking lot but by the weekend I should be able to find time to get to the outdoor track & compare the two. Depending on how these do, I think I'll probably end up going with 2.8 Trenchers eventually. Gotta let the wallet heal a little bit first.

    That should be the end of my upgrades in the near future. Many thanks to all you Forum members that helped me out!

  13. #53
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    I thought I was done with this!!!!

    Well I got about halfway through a 3s pack at the track today, was lining up for a jump when the truck spins out and my rear wheel comes rolling down the hill toward me. My first thought was that I hadn't tightened the nut on my HR 17mm adapters & the wheel had spun off. I pick up the wheel and the adapter & nut are still attached. I get to the truck and find that THE MIP X-DUTY STUB AXLE BROKE!

    Not only am I down until I can get in touch with MIP to try to get a replacement stub axle, but I also lost the barrel screw that keeps the HR 17mm adapters from coming off the axle (http://www.hot-racing.com/index.cgi?...SSLF117X;c=480)! HR's website lists one vendor, Hobby Etc., and they are out of stock. I have my LHS checking with their supplier but I doubt they'll be able to get it. So, now I can either wait until Hobby Etc. gets more in stock or I can pony up another $28 to buy a whole new set of adapters just to get one little barrel screw. Basically, THIS SUCKS!

    Man! I thought I was finally done with breaking stub axles but these X-duties don't seem to be all that much stronger than stock... I emailed MIP so hopefully they can replace the broken one and maybe hook me up with a spare. Oh well, between the replacement stub axle & the replacement barrel nut, looks like I don't have any need to charge any batteries for a while!

    Has anybody else had this happen? There isn't a stronger stub axle available is there?

    Here is the offending part:



  14. #54
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    Wow that is some flaw.....I have had the barrel of the HR hex come out but later used the MIP blue loctite on the axle and all is great now.

    I have had no problem with the keyd 12mm hex, only with the 17mm thats why I went for the HR and quite happy now, for the 7th run I have waited to see if the tyres would go loose but I think this time I got them right
    Live life to the fullest

  15. #55
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    Tell me about it, man. I really thought I was done with broken stub axles. I sure hope this is an anomaly and that I don't have any further issues with them once I get the replacement parts.

    What's almost more frustrating is that I identified early on that the barrel nut was something that absolutely had to stay put when I initially installed the 17mm adapters so I put a bunch of blue loctite on there when I installed them to be certain that they didn't come off the shaft. Well, now it looks like the missing barrel nut that's still attached to the broken off end of the axle somewhere out on the track is what will keep me sidelined for a good long while unless I want to buy another entire set of 17mm adapters.

    I got the "RC Blues", man!

  16. #56
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    There isn't a stronger stub axle available is there?
    Well there is a stronger stub axle out there, there called tekno.
    Bad thing is they only work with there setups.
    I hit a curb so hard the other day I busted the rim and was almost positive I took out the stub axle as well.
    After getting it home and checking things out the thing spun true.
    If mip and tekno got together they might be able to come up with something that can take a bit more, tho in the end nothing will be unbreakable.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  17. #57
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    My 2 would be to use the mip 17mm hexes. I've been running almost the same setup with them and zero issues. I'm not easy on it either...
    2650Kv sl4sh 8S Rally erevo 2 sl4sh 4 kids

  18. #58
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    Man! So I have been sitting back and reading this thread for awhile now. Looks like you Platinum Edition is all grown up. For your broken stub axle, the 17mm adapters made by Mip made be a pain but they are designed to hold the axle so that they hold onto the strongest part of the axle. I believe that you would not have broken it with Mip parts. In the video were you running 3 or 4s? For me aluminum rims are the best way to make axles bulletproof. I look forward to reading more about your truck
    Member of the 10,000 + posts club! Here to help!

  19. #59
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    Thanks guys for the suggestions. So, I looked online at the MIP 17mm adapters and I'm struggling to see how the design is all the much different than that of the HR adapters. At least, I can't see how the MIP version translates the force any differently at the point of fracture of my stub axle. Here is my broken stub axle with the bearings, bushing, & MIP hex connected (but without the carrier) so you can see that the shaft broke just on the threaded side of the hex:



    Here is a picture I found online that shows how the MIP adapters go together:



    It looks like the MIP adapter mates with the axle at the keyed section and takes the place of the hex. Then the hex nut threads over the MIP stub axle and holds the wheel in place. However, it looks like the outside diameter of the hex nut is the same as the inside diameter of the adapter, which if true, would translate perpendicular force to the same area of the stub axle that I broke. By perpendicular force, I mean what happens when you land a jump sideways and the wheel digs sideways into the ground usually resulting in a barrel roll for the truck.

    Does any of that make sense? I'd just really like to understand the physics of how one system is an improvement before I toss more $$ after it. I'm still really hoping that this is just a fluke and I got an axle from a bad batch of steel or something. I suppose that if I can't get that HR barrel nut and have to buy a completely new set of 17mm adapters, I may as well get the MIP set. At least then I could compare one side to the other.

    El Sob, in the video I was running 4s. When I broke the stub axle I was running 3s. 4s is lots of fun but really a waste on a dusty RC track because you can never get that much power to the ground with poor traction on a small course.

  20. #60
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    That pic is for the 2wd adapters.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  21. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by billy-bones View Post
    That pic is for the 2wd adapters.
    Ah yes, sorry Billy. Here is the 4x4 drawing, but it seems to be exactly the same except for the front bearing spacer:


  22. #62
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    We got some rain last night so I went back to the track this morning with hopes that the rain would settle the dust enough to be able to find my lost barrel nut (the one still attached to the broken MIP stub axle). Nope. Foolishly optimistic I suppose. It could have broken anywhere while I only know where the truck was when the rear wheel came off. I also heard back from my LHS that they cannot locate any source for replacement barrel nuts. So I'm left with the choice of either buying a completely new set of 17mm adapters or waiting for who-knows-how-long for somebody to get the barrel nuts back in stock. The worst part is that with the seasons changing, I'm running out of reliable bashing weather. And the fact that I just put $300+ into upgrading this beast and now can't run it...

    This sucks, but I think I'm going to order a set of the MIP 17mm adapters and give those a run. I think if I run MIP adapters on the rear and HR on the front, that'll give me spare parts for each should this (or some other calamity) happen again. Once the MIP adapters come in, I'll post up some pics to compare them to the HR side-by-side.

    Can somebody confirm that this is the right set?
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/MIP-10115-17...item461e5f8883

    Also, in case anyone was wondering, I heard back from MIP customer support and they confirmed that my breakage "is not supposed to happen" and they are replacing the axle. Kudos to MIP for standing by their product.

  23. #63
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    Hey OSU Beaver 99

    i will send you my 17 mm MIP adapters, do not buy them, you juts may need to get a grub screw for one, If I find the spare I will put it in as well.
    Live life to the fullest

  24. #64
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    Hey Jezza, thank you very much! I forgot about your previous offer to send them to me. Let me know how I can repay you!
    -PM sent

  25. #65
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OSU Beaver 99 View Post
    Hey Jezza, thank you very much! I forgot about your previous offer to send them to me. Let me know how I can repay you!
    -PM sent
    No its all good, its free
    Live life to the fullest

  26. #66
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OSU Beaver 99 View Post
    Ah yes, sorry Billy. Here is the 4x4 drawing, but it seems to be exactly the same except for the front bearing spacer:

    No need for sorrys lol.
    The spacers are what first caught my eye.
    I have a set of 4wd mip 17mm adapters hanging on the wall I never opened, when I looked I didn't see the other spacers in the pack.
    At my second look I saw the upper two had longer offsets just like the traxxas 2wd adapters.
    Best of luck getting back up and lipo powered my friend.

    Very nice of you Jezza, it things like your juster that make this forum different from so many others.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  27. #67
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    Thanks to Jezza for sending me the MIP 17mm adapters, I got myself bash-ready and hit the track again. It was good to hit the bash-track again after almost 2 weeks away. But then my bad luck caught up to me again. On the first pack my front diff started making some horrible noises and five minutes later I only had rear wheel drive.... I'm not sure what their names are, but the outside "ring" gear & a couple of the small, interior gears in the diff were missing teeth. The center drive shaft gear was looking pretty weathered too, although it still had all it's teeth. So I hit the LHS and got everything replaced and set back up. While I was in there, I replaced all the bearings and was pretty happy with the notion that I wouldn't have to open up the front end again anytime soon. Here's a picture of the damaged gears; it's not a very good picture but you can see at least one missing tooth on the ring gear:


    Today at lunch time I headed back out to the track again and made it most of the way through a pack before I got a little careless and hit a tree. Well, that broke my RPM front bulkhead and the front diff case. So, looks like I'll be tearing apart the front end again and heading back to the LHS for another front diff case tonight after work. I still have the original, well-worn, stock bulkhead that I'll put back on and send the broken one back to RPM for replacement. Here is a picture of today's carnage:


    I know that repairs on these seem cyclical but it's been a while since I was able to get through a pack without breaking something and I'm looking forward to the end of this current breaking cycle!

  28. #68
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    No worries...

    I am alos stuck . I lost my C hub scews and I cannot find my spars in my box....I tested the2650 on 6s and man what a run...WOW
    Live life to the fullest

  29. #69
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    6s, wow! The most I've tried is 4s and even then I cannot get to full throttle without the truck trying to leave the ground. The Baja Bug body probably does not help.

    I'd be happy to send you some of my extra screws but I'm sure that you don't want to wait 1-2 weeks for some cheap screws! Nonetheless, let me know. I owe you!

  30. #70
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    thanks its all good. I have HR C hub. But will try the traxxas scews used for the shocks as soon as I find them ;
    Live life to the fullest

  31. #71
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Humm, pretty sure theres supposed to be lube it there.
    Looks like you were running dry.
    Remember weed hopper, with great power comes great ability to break things lol.
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  32. #72
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    Ha ha, you got me there Billy! The ring gear was bone dry but the differential case still had "some" grease in there. I wish there was an easy way to inspect the diffs for proper lube without taking the whole thing apart. We all have one part of the truck that we hate to work on and for me it's the front end so I only open it up when something has gone wrong.

  33. #73
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OSU Beaver 99 View Post
    Ha ha, you got me there Billy! The ring gear was bone dry but the differential case still had "some" grease in there. I wish there was an easy way to inspect the diffs for proper lube without taking the whole thing apart. We all have one part of the truck that we hate to work on and for me it's the front end so I only open it up when something has gone wrong.
    LOL, for some reason I always wait till the last minute to do my shocks.
    Back in the racing days (2wd) it was something I did every week, along with completely going through the trans and the hole truck for that matter.
    Now I have a tendency to let thing goes a bit longer
    Darn, now I'm looking and my FLM build that I just bought 80 weight oil for street running.
    Worst part is its only 10 minutes to nine in Michigan so I cant say oh to late I'll do it tomorrow.
    Me and my big mouth.
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  34. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by billy-bones View Post
    If your going to use your 17mm adapters this wont mater, if not drop a few bucks (about $8 of them) on these.
    Not only will they not come loose sometimes you need both hands on he nut driver to get them off.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    What brand are deez nuts Billy ? I need um.

  35. #75
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    Just replaced the diffs in mine with XOs after the same thing. Apparently I need to regrease them more often that once a year
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  36. #76
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    and the most careless award goes to.... Beaver... lol are those the xo-1 ones or stock
    Sl4sh, Arrma Talion, Stamp4de, Castle, MIP, RPM

  37. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by TruSound View Post
    What brand are deez nuts Billy ? I need um.
    I think these are what you're looking for:
    http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...CU-BoCjvnw_wcB

  38. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jelle318 View Post
    and the most careless award goes to.... Beaver... lol are those the xo-1 ones or stock
    Carelessness goes hand in hand with fun!

    Last year I serviced both diffs and did the XO-1 I-bar upgrade. Too bad they don't sell just the I-bar...

  39. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by OSU Beaver 99 View Post
    I think these are what you're looking for:
    http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...CU-BoCjvnw_wcB
    Thanks Beav, gonna have to get the JConcepts version…I need um in black, they're a couple bucks more and not NyLock but I think they'll be fine with just serrations.

  40. #80
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    haha TruSound!!!! what brand are deez nuts? haha love it!!!
    Sl4sh, Arrma Talion, Stamp4de, Castle, MIP, RPM

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