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  1. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jelle318 View Post
    haha TruSound!!!! what brand are deez nuts? haha love it!!!
    Gosh darn auto-correct...these nuts, what brand are these nuts, my bad.

  2. #82
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    Well lucky me, tonight I made it into my third battery pack when my BRAND NEW 2075 SERVO broke. Looks like I get to take off the front end again. Can't get enough of that recentering of the servo horn!

    Hey TruSound, you know the autocorrect learns from prior typing. Sounds like you have an alter-ego!

  3. #83
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Get a metal geared servo, they are a lot more robust.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  4. #84
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    Any suggestions? The last two metal-geared servos I tried both ended up with stripped gears after a few months. Maybe I'm expecting too much of the servos (and maybe I'm not a very good driver). One was a Hi-tech and the other was a cheapo no-name brand. I kinda was thinking that I should just consider a servo a wear part like bearings but if somebody has a good, tough, long-life servo to suggest, I'll try it.

  5. #85
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Is your servo saver set right? I use Hitec 5565mh and Savox 1257TG, but I care more about speed than torque. But high torque servos should be more robust. No haven't had a servo go out yet, and I don't run a saver on most of my cars.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  6. #86
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    I've had pretty good luck with spektrum servos. I run 6020, 6030( no longer make) and 6090. I blew a 6020 along with 2 traxxas in one truck. After I blew the 6020 I started to look more into the problem. I already had the strc bellcrank which I see you have. Bearings was good in bellcrank no binding at the knuckles. My conclusion came to bad esc. It fried later after switching to another 6020. After replacing esc I haven't had any problems with servos.

  7. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by OSU Beaver 99 View Post
    Well lucky me, tonight I made it into my third battery pack when my BRAND NEW 2075 SERVO broke. Looks like I get to take off the front end again. Can't get enough of that recentering of the servo horn!

    Hey TruSound, you know the autocorrect learns from prior typing. Sounds like you have an alter-ego!
    Guilty as charged...

  8. #88
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    I have my stock 2075 but with savox 0251-mg gears in it. works perfect
    Sl4sh, Arrma Talion, Stamp4de, Castle, MIP, RPM

  9. #89
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    Thanks for the suggestions guys. Yes, I think my servo saver is set right. I'm running the STRC bell cranks and I have it set pretty loose. I just replaced the front bulkhead and while I was at it I replaced all the bearings in the steering linkage and set it up like it was before. 99% sure it's not the servo saver setting or bearings. My ESC is an almost new SW 8th and it just laughs at what I throw at it so I don't think that's the problem. I think it comes down to a run of bad luck, which I have been enjoying lately. Just lots of stuff going bad at once. I'll check out those servos you guys suggested in the morning. I do have one more 2075 servo in the toolbox so I can get back on the road in the meantime. Thanks for the servo suggestions, I've been thinking about upgrading but didn't want to throw away money on something overpriced.

  10. #90
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    I don't think the STRC bellcranks and servo saver gives enough. Metal on metal with a really sharp angle to the saver, it doesn't give like the plastic one does. I took it out of my truck.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  11. #91
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    Another MIP X-Duty Failure

    Well, I got my servo replaced (I just went with another 2075 servo since they are cheap and my buddy had an extra one I could borrow) and hit the track at lunch time today. I was halfway into my second 2s pack when the front wheels locked to the right and the truck skidded to a stop. I walked over to check it out, expecting to see yet another steering issue, to find this:





    I just emailed MIP with pictures & proof of purchase so I hope they stand by their product. After all I read on here about how bulletproof the MIP X-Dutys are, it's troubling that I've now had two failures in the short 6-7 weeks that I've owned them.

    Here's a video of the track taken a year ago. It's basically the same today as it was then. It's hard to believe that running 2s on this track would be considered irresponsible or reckless but what do you guys think? Am I asking too much of these axles? I'm beginning to miss burning through the cheap $5 stock axles. At least then I could pack extras & not be down for long periods of time.


  12. #92
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    Hey all, been a while since I updated this thread.

    Since the last post, MIP replaced the broken X-Duty part above. The truck ran great after that for about two months with no problems and lots of fun. Last Thursday & Friday I ignored the bad weather and did some great bashing in wet, muddy, & somewhat snowy conditions. Here are a few pics:







    On Friday I came down off a big jump and broke the rear MIP stub axle again just like last time:



    Since the part broke just the same as last time, I'm thinking that it isn't so much of a manufacturing defect but rather just not made to stand up to the kind of bad landings that I've experienced. I didn't pursue a warranty claim this time and just bought a new one. I'm glad MIP stood by the last two breaks but I can't honestly say that this break was due to a defect. And, in case you were curious, I broke the axle while using the MIP 17mm adapters so I'm sure that it wasn't due to a compatibility issue between the axle & adapter.

    Once I cleaned up the truck and it dried out, I found that a couple bearings were seized. Between the breakage, the bearings seizing and some other pending upgrades/maintenance, and since my kids sports are done for the season, I decided to do a total teardown this weekend.

    My slash came to me via ebay as a used roller so the chassis had some wear on it when I got it. Then I put a lot more wear on it to the point of it actually starting to wear out. If you look carefully you can see a couple spots where the chassis is actually worn/gouged through:



    I had a new chassis waiting for the next time I had a major teardown so I figured now was a good time to replace the old. First I dyed it black. I did it outside on the grill burner because my wife would kill me if something happened inside with all that dye:



    While the chassis was boiling in dye, I tore the whole truck apart. Every single bearing needed to be replaced and about 5 or 6 of them were seized completely, I had no idea it was this bad! Since I had it all apart, I decided that now was a good time to change the diff fluid because the last time I serviced them all I had was grease and the grease was way too thin for the rear diff. I put 100k fluid in the rear and 30k fluid in the front. Easily my least favorite task on the Slash...

    I got it all back together, well lubed and nice and clean, except for the rear stub axle which was waiting for me at work this morning. Here is where it stands now:



    Tonight I'll get it all back together and wait for the rain to stop. I don't normally worry too much about getting the truck wet but after the work I just put into it, I think I'll try to keep it dry for at least a few packs.

  13. #93
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    Yup....hihih been there, after a mud run , the work to be done is just phenominal....

    That looks like a great bashing session, went to the skate park and did some crazy jumps with no problems at all, I think I am very happy with the whole set up of my truck....

    Looks like you finally dyed yours too....just looks great ehe...
    Live life to the fullest

  14. #94
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    The chassis looks so good when dyed black!
    Hope this round on=f repairs/upgrades last longer this time!
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  15. #95
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    Hey guys,

    Time for a little update. I've been running pretty well for the last few months, dodging rain storms. I broke another MIP X-duty stub axle a few weeks ago but it was a pretty nasty crash so no real complaints there.

    What is noteworthy is that last night I exercised poor throttle control mid-air on the biggest jump on the "bash-track" at the park and knifed the nose right into the ground (The truck was maybe 5-6' off the ground at it's apex). The front bumper did it's job and the truck bounced straight back up into the air in almost perfect equilibrium and landed squarely on the rear bumper, which caused it to do another near-perfect 180 pogo-stick style bounce and finally tumbled to a stop. It was really a pretty special crash and elicited some cheers from onlookers. Anyway, on the second big bounce I saw what I thought was a foam block fly out from the truck. I don't have any foam on my truck, so I walked over and found that the heat sink fin assembly from my Castle Sidewinder 8th ESC had come off. I took the body off and found a totally exposed circuit board facing me where the heat sink fins had been (I took the fan off several months ago, it quit working after too much debris got caught in it). I will post pictures later today when I get back home, sorry...

    Anyway, the only thing I could find on the Forum here were some recommendations for thermal paste. I needed a thermal adhesive so I expanded my search and found where a guy on RCtech.net had the same thing happen to him on his MMP. He wrote that Castle told him to either send in the ESC for repair/replacement, or use this product:
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/221378467457
    The last entry on that thread from him said that he had used that epoxy and that it was working fine after a couple months. So, I ordered some of this stuff last night and should have it early next week. Any chance anybody has had the same problem before? If so, what product did you use?
    Sorry for no pics, I'll add some tonight.

  16. #96
    RC Qualifier waqrrr's Avatar
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    Amazing thread. Great info and pictures. Keep posting

  17. #97
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    so just looking at that break, and of course this is my personal opinion, but it looks like it was maxed out of the safe articulation range.. they don't have an infinite angle of operation, and slamming them past where they can physically travel will shatter them....

  18. #98
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    Jimbo, which break do you mean? The stub axle? If so, in each case the stub axle broke when I landed sideways, on one tire, on a high-traction surface. It's the same scenario that caused so many broken stock stub axles before, the MIPs just don't break nearly as often.

  19. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by OSU Beaver 99 View Post
    Jimbo, which break do you mean? The stub axle? If so, in each case the stub axle broke when I landed sideways, on one tire, on a high-traction surface. It's the same scenario that caused so many broken stock stub axles before, the MIPs just don't break nearly as often.
    I'm pretty sure he meant the male spline part where you broke the cup that the pin goes through. Post #91

  20. #100
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    Oh, ok. I'm pretty sure what caused that one was that the center pin broke and had one half fall out. That left one side to translate all of the force to the axle and I think it just got torqued right out. It's hard to tell from the picture but you can see where one side got bent/stretched out by the center pin.
    My suspension geometry is stock so I don't think there was anything that got over extended or anything.
    Last edited by OSU Beaver 99; 03-19-2016 at 04:31 PM.

  21. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by OSU Beaver 99 View Post
    Oh, ok. I'm pretty sure what caused that one was that the center pin broke and had one half fall out. That left one side to translate all of the force to the axle and I think it just got torqued right out. It's hard to tell from the picture but you can see where one side got bent/stretched out by the center pin.
    My suspension geometry is stock so I don't think there was anything that got over extended or anything.
    i watched a few of your videos and read most of this stuff, how hard are you bashing this thing off camera? you going like 20 feet in the air? im just curious, im gonna bash mine but i doubt it will be as hard as some of you dudes out there. I'd say i'd do more light bashing and rally then anything.

  22. #102
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    Well, it's all relative like anything else. I'm a 41-year-old engineer and breaking my truck gives me no enjoyment whatsoever. But, on average, I put about 6-10 battery packs per week through the Slash so with that high frequency, stuff happens. The track by my office is pretty rough on trucks. The jumps are big, the corners are tight, and there's usually a few other trucks running to try to dodge. The biggest jump throws you up there about 5-6', every lap, so yeah... Stuff happens!
    But I am definitely not one of those YouTube guys who jump the truck over my house. If I stayed with on road driving, I'm ute I'd hardly break anything.

  23. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by OSU Beaver 99 View Post
    Well, it's all relative like anything else. I'm a 41-year-old engineer and breaking my truck gives me no enjoyment whatsoever. But, on average, I put about 6-10 battery packs per week through the Slash so with that high frequency, stuff happens. The track by my office is pretty rough on trucks. The jumps are big, the corners are tight, and there's usually a few other trucks running to try to dodge. The biggest jump throws you up there about 5-6', every lap, so yeah... Stuff happens!
    But I am definitely not one of those YouTube guys who jump the truck over my house. If I stayed with on road driving, I'm ute I'd hardly break anything.
    ok i was curios, i might launch mine a couple feet maybe, 2-3 feet high but i would slowly work it up to it to make sure i get a smooth landing.
    For my style of driving I would say i'm more of a rally type of driver instead of a basher. they seem to be kinda the same but the bashings generally to me sound like they are expecting to break it.
    I did not however get the rally car style because I wont only be on dirt roads but i'll some rough terrain, grass, dirt ect just like anyone else would i guess. no tracks that i know of near me. quite a few gravel pits.

  24. #104
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    Oh yeah, quarry bashing is great! Giant piles of sand are great for jumping but murder on the bearings ��. The rally thing looks cool but I would get bored running on pavement all the time.

  25. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by OSU Beaver 99 View Post
    Oh yeah, quarry bashing is great! Giant piles of sand are great for jumping but murder on the bearings ��. The rally thing looks cool but I would get bored running on pavement all the time.
    it looks liek you can run it in drt but i didnt get it cause my gravel roads get decently sized rocks and pot holes for something as low as the rally, thats why i went for the slash cause i knew i could "rally" it better then the rally car.
    and waht do you mean? murder on the bearings? because dirt gets? well im gonna have a of a time in alaska cause glacier silt is worse then sand any day and its everywhere, even in the normal looking dirt glacier silt is their, you wash the dirt of your slash and wahts left is a bunch of heavy glacier silt, its even more fine then sand
    can i protect the bearings or should i get some expensive ones lol (cause the spendy ones will probably hold better. maybe buggy bearings?


    Edited for language abuse. If you see a starred out word in your post, you must edit it out to avoid earning warning points.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 03-20-2016 at 06:41 PM.

  26. #106
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    I wouldn't get the expensive bearings. Just keep a bunch of the $1 ones from Avid on hand. Sand is tough on bearings because it gets everywhere. I imagine glacial till/silt is just as bad.

  27. #107
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    Where's the cheapest place to buy bearings? I had pay $4 a pair yesterday at my LHS.

  28. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by UncleJackD View Post
    Where's the cheapest place to buy bearings? I had pay $4 a pair yesterday at my LHS.
    ive seen full bearing sets for the slash for 20 dollars from 3 brands, cant rememeber the other two but i have a set of fast eddy ones coming in that someone recommended so im glad I didn't waste money.
    Glacier silt it far worse then sand, its more fine and in all of the dirt.

    how do i have a starred word in my post i cant even go fix it, hope the mods don't get mad.
    Last edited by wyatt333; 03-20-2016 at 01:57 PM.

  29. #109
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    For bearings, check out Avid or Boca. They both have $1 bearings and also have complete bearing sets for your Slash so you can be sure you have everything you need.

  30. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by OSU Beaver 99 View Post
    For bearings, check out Avid or Boca. They both have $1 bearings and also have complete bearing sets for your Slash so you can be sure you have everything you need.
    any ideas on how to protect the diffs from "sand"

  31. #111
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    Keep it dry if you can. Water will carry sand & silt deep into the diffs. But unless you run your truck in an Intel cleanroom, stuff is gonna get in there, it's unavoidable.

  32. #112
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by wyatt333 View Post
    any ideas on how to protect the diffs from "sand"
    not run in sand...... can't really do much... it is going to get into places it shouldn't unless you avoid it all together

  33. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by OSU Beaver 99 View Post
    Keep it dry if you can. Water will carry sand & silt deep into the diffs. But unless you run your truck in an Intel cleanroom, stuff is gonna get in there, it's unavoidable.
    I want to make a post with my build and put up some pics... but im having difficulty with the pics and i did read that old post about how to post pics...

  34. #114
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    I finally got back in town and got some pics of my heat sink/ESC separation. I have some thermal epoxy I linked to above on the way so I should have it fixed by the end of the week.



    Here's what it looks like with the heat sink placed where it belongs:

  35. #115
    RC Qualifier Swampthing's Avatar
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    Nice build!

    Where did you buy the SW8 without a motor? I can only find it as a combo.
    Rustler | MERV | Summit | Slash Ultimate | Slash

  36. #116
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    Thanks Swampthing, I bought it on ebay. There were very few options for buying just the ESC, pretty much just guys who buy the SW8/2200 combo and only want the motor. I paid $100 incl. shipping. I'm not sure what they go for now, but that combo has come down in price to as low as $165. Maybe buy the combo and sell the 2200kv motor if you're looking at a different motor?

  37. #117
    RC Qualifier Swampthing's Avatar
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    Yeah I only see the combos on eBay and I already have the 2650 motor on the way. I think I'll just go for the MM2 for $115. It's not that much more and include a coupon for the castle link usb adaptor. That may be the best way to go.

    Thanks for the quick reply!
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  38. #118
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    I've been thinking about getting ceramic bearings for my car... I'm tired of them seizing up and wearing driveshafts away... xD there's a worn part on my driveshafts where the bearing didn't spin... And let me tell you, it DID NOT spin at all! I'm tired of looking at my 1/18th scale Teton and it's better driveshafts than my 1/10th scale Rustler has! Lol

  39. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by WonderMelon View Post
    I've been thinking about getting ceramic bearings for my car... I'm tired of them seizing up and wearing driveshafts away... xD there's a worn part on my driveshafts where the bearing didn't spin... And let me tell you, it DID NOT spin at all! I'm tired of looking at my 1/18th scale Teton and it's better driveshafts than my 1/10th scale Rustler has! Lol
    I run ceramic bearings in my speed run rig motors and FLM 2400kv motor build, other then that, even perhaps that as well there over rated and priced for rc use.
    Not to mention a real ceramic bearing will cost a lot, you'll more then likely get a hybrid ceramic.
    Just my opinion.
    Proper care of the stock bearings will go a long way in there life expectancy.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  40. #120
    RC Qualifier WonderMelon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billy-bones View Post
    I run ceramic bearings in my speed run rig motors and FLM 2400kv motor build, other then that, even perhaps that as well there over rated and priced for rc use.
    Not to mention a real ceramic bearing will cost a lot, you'll more then likely get a hybrid ceramic.
    Just my opinion.
    Proper care of the stock bearings will go a long way in there life expectancy.
    I'm pretty sure Acer makes real ceramic bearings....

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