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  1. #1
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    Time For A Long Overdue Upgrade

    Hey guys,

    The time has finally come for my Sl4sh to put on it's big boy pants. I'm kissing 2s goodbye (mostly) and am stepping up to 3s/4s territory. However I need some guidance on some of the less-obvious aspects of going big and I'm hoping that those of you that have similar motor/ESC systems can give me some advice.

    I'll start with what I already have: I've been a 2s basher for 2.5 years and am running a mostly stock Platinum Edition. The only other thing I've done is add the STRC motor mount, RPM Skidplate & XO-1 differentials. All the other usual plastic parts are RPM (bumpers, A-arms, shock towers, etc.).

    After much research & thought, I settled on the Sidewinder 8th ESC w/ the Castle 2650kv motor. I have the ESC and just ordered the motor. I went with that combination because I want to make 3s my everyday bashing battery and I want the 4s option when I feel the need to break something in truly spectacular fashion. And despite what I said above, I would like to be able to pop in a 2s battery and dial down the power so my kids can drive it at the park. The various discussions here on the Forum were extremely helpful in coming to this decision, thanks everyone for that. Since pictures are required for any build thread, here is the only piece of new hardware I actually have on hand at this point, the ESC:



    Now onto the things that I "think" I want but could use some advice on:

    1) Driveshafts - MIP or Tekno? It's been discussed almost to death but I'm heavily leaning towards Tekno. My reasons are weight, price, & because I think I'll end up getting a 17mm adapter kit at some point soon and I read (matts175, I think) that the MIP 17mm adapter is lousy. If anybody has that 2650kv motor and has found the Teknos to be too weak, please speak up!

    2) A-Arms - Stock or RPM? I know that the RPM arms are stronger but also that they are more flexible. If I go with Tekno, I'm aware that the RPM A-arms might bend enough to allow one end of the dog bone to slip out. Do you guys recommend going back to the stock A-arms (I still have them) or simply replace the extremely worn RPM arms with new ones that may be not so flexible?

    3) Tires/Wheels - There are few things that I hate more than stripping out the hex on a $15 RC wheel. It's my understanding that switching to a 17mm hex helps prevent this and that it just might be required to reliably run 4s. Is this right or am I confused on the benefits of going to a 17mm hex? I would like to run something like 2.8" Badlands for off-road and whatever ElSob is running these days (Banditos?) for on-road, but I'm open to suggestions and I have quite a pile of old 12mm hex RC tires to burn through first.

    4) Shock Springs/Oil - I'm sure that running this motor setup, with steel driveshafts & a 4s battery, is going to weigh down the truck more than before and I've read that either the VG Racing GTR springs or the Losi set are the way to go. Is there any particular color I should be looking for? What works for you guys with similar setups? Also, starting point for oil thickness for general bashing?

    That's pretty much all I have for now. As parts trickle in over the next few weeks, I'll update this thread with pictures & other questions that may come up.

    Thanks to all the forum members who have helped me get this far. I know I've PM'd a bunch of you guys with questions and I really appreciate all the info.

    -Steve

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier JohnnyHildo's Avatar
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    my opinion:
    1. MIP's for an 1:8th system. i have both mips and teknos and while the teknos would probably work they just aren't as obviously resilient as the x-dutys. the weight isn't as big a consideration with that power.
    2. stock until broken then rpm
    3. your tires, wheels and hubs depend on your cvd choice. if teknos you'd use their 17mm adapters and the 17mm wheel of your choice. if mips i went with hot-racing's adapters which are awesome too. for tires depending on use i personally went... steet: banditos offroad: badlands and or trenchers. a little of both go with trenchers.
    4. the extra weight of the bigger batteries and cvd merit bigger springs. i went with losi's black springs (medium).
    sl4sh 2200 / p4de 2400

  3. #3
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    JohnnyHildo, thanks a lot for the advice. Back to wheels, are 17mm hubs really worth it or do you still have all the same issues with 12mm?

  4. #4
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    ELsobs got one of the best set ups for the slash 4x4. id say what ever he is running do it lol.
    2.5r Pede, 2-speed O.S.21tm rusty , 3.3T-maxx

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier JohnnyHildo's Avatar
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    since swapping both my trucks over to 17mm i have had absolutely no wheel related issues. i have spun tires off of the wheel but that's another issue altogether lol.
    i honestly like both sets of 17mm adapters equally. tekno gets props for having such a great design but the HR adapters work so perfectly when set up on a metal hex and get points for their simplicity.
    sl4sh 2200 / p4de 2400

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier JohnnyHildo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mxaustin View Post
    ELsobs got one of the best set ups for the slash 4x4. id say what ever he is running do it lol.
    while i agree his promotion of the 2400kv system is warranted (heck i have one in my stampede) it doesn't hold a candle to the 2200kv 1:8th or the 2650kv in my opinion, especially in a slash 4x4. an 1:8th scale just delivers way more power, you can gear basically as big as the truck can physically fit and temp control in the form of fans and heatsinks aren't necessary.
    1:8th scale also allow up to 6s packs!
    edit: i just thought of one other consideration. the 2400kv el sob special costs nearly double now than what i initially paid for it 6 months ago meaning the pricing is getting closer to a castle sidewinder 1:8th which used to seem very expensive to me.
    Last edited by JohnnyHildo; 08-04-2015 at 04:24 PM.
    sl4sh 2200 / p4de 2400

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnnyHildo View Post
    while i agree his promotion of the 2400kv system is warranted (heck i have one in my stampede) it doesn't hold a candle to the 2200kv 1:8th or the 2650kv in my opinion, especially in a slash 4x4.
    I sure am happy to hear that, although I know everyone has their own opinions! A big reason for me upgrading my Slash is because my racing buddy from work fried his VXL ESC and is in the process of upgrading to the El Sob special. Naturally, like in any good arms race, I am compelled to upgrade in kind. And since I can say "you started it", he can't get too upset if I happen to edge him out a little bit on power.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnnyHildo View Post
    while i agree his promotion of the 2400kv system is warranted (heck i have one in my stampede) it doesn't hold a candle to the 2200kv 1:8th or the 2650kv in my opinion, especially in a slash 4x4. an 1:8th scale just delivers way more power, you can gear basically as big as the truck can physically fit and temp control in the form of fans and heatsinks aren't necessary.
    1:8th scale also allow up to 6s packs!
    edit: i just thought of one other consideration. the 2400kv el sob special costs nearly double now than what i initially paid for it 6 months ago meaning the pricing is getting closer to a castle sidewinder 1:8th which used to seem very expensive to me.



    all i see is numbers..., thats all gibberish to me lol, all i know is alot of people have very good success with his systems and i havnt heard a single issue with it. as far as electric rc goes, i know it has an on/off switch. theres where my knowledge stops beisdes suspension tunning. talk to me about engines lol
    Last edited by mxaustin; 08-04-2015 at 04:36 PM.
    2.5r Pede, 2-speed O.S.21tm rusty , 3.3T-maxx

  9. #9
    RC Qualifier JohnnyHildo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mxaustin View Post


    all i see is numbers..., thats all gibberish to me lol, all i know is alot of people have very good success with his systems and i havnt heard a single issue with it. as far as electric rc goes, i know it has an on/off switch. theres where my knowledge stops beisdes suspension tunning.
    haha ok i'll clear it up for you a little... it's definitely better than stock but still leaves room for improvement both in power and temp control. op is on the right track for how i use my truck.
    sl4sh 2200 / p4de 2400

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Congrats on your upgrades!

    Do you have an aluminum motor mount and bearing adapter?

    In answer to your questions and what I have on my rig:

    1) Drive Shafts

    MIP X-Duty front and rear CVDs.
    Teckno Big Bone center drive shaft.

    2) A-Arms

    Traxxas all around

    3a) Hex Hub Adapters

    Hot Racing 10mm offset 17mm hub adapters
    http://www.hot-racing.com/index.cgi?...WH17HT01;c=480
    They also have a set of 6mm offset adapters.

    3b) Wheel & Tire Combo

    Off-Road: ProLine 2.8 F-11 17mm wheels with ProLine 2.8 Trencher tires
    On-Road: ProLine 2.8 F-11 17mm wheels with JConcepts 2.8 G-Locs tires
    and soon to get
    On-Road: Proline 2.8 F-11 17mm wheels with ProLine Prime 2.8 tires

    4) Shocks and Springs

    Shocks: Traxxas GTR Shocks with Variable Valve Dampening Kit (TRA5461). All 4 holes drilled out to 1/16" w/ flap on top.
    Oil: Team Associated 80wt/1000cst Shock Oil
    Springs: Black VG Racing Slash 4x4 Springs (you can get them in several colors)

    Have fun with your new system!
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  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    Welcome to the club of extreme power OSU Beaver 99, you will definetely enjoy the 3s onwards .....

    Like Squeegie had linked, I swapped my 17MM MIP over and got the HR 10mm offset that goes over the 12mm MIP, holds better then what it was before.

    I have RPM arms on all four and so far vry happy with it.
    Last edited by Jezza; 08-04-2015 at 05:39 PM.
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  12. #12
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    Squeegie/Jezza, thanks for the welcome into the world of upgraded power!

    I already have an STRC motor mount and the aluminum bearing adapter was on the truck when I got it. Thanks for double-checking.

    You guys are definitely talking me into the X-Duties instead of the Teknos. I just want to run hard without concern for drivetrain issues and it sounds more and more like the extra weight isn't really an issue with this motor system.

  13. #13
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    UPDATE: I just ordered the MIP X-Duty axles, front & rear! My buddy had just finished installing his El Sob Special and we tore up the parking lot with it for a few minutes. That El Sob Special absolutely screams compared to the 2-pole VXL (or the SW3/3800)! Anyway, I am no longer concerned at all about the extra mass of the X-Duty axles with this system.

  14. #14
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    New Parts Arrived

    MIP X-Duty axles & revo slipper arrived while I was gone over the weekend. Still waiting on the 2650kv motor. Today I start a complete tear-down of the Slash & begin the rebuild. It's been a long time since I replaced all the bearings & shock oil so it was time.






    I really hope I can get it all back together in time for vacation next weekend.

  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Have fun, take your time and do it right.
    It will be quicker then doing fast, having something go wrong, then doing it again the right way!
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  16. #16
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    I started the upgrades at lunch today. I first found my motor mount bearing was just about shot so I wrestled it out of there (not easy to do) and replaced it. Next I installed the velcro battery hold-downs so I can run 4s & do away with that balance-lead-destroying battery hold-down:


    Next up was the Revo slipper clutch mod:



    For anybody interested, here is how the SW8 compares with the SW3 ESC. The pictures don't really show it but it's probably 50% larger in every respect:




  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    Eheheh....another over powered build, the club is increasing.

    Now you can almost say it is bullet proof...I am loving the CC 2650 , one day you should try it, I think it is the sweet point for my rig, tried the ElSob ; very happy then the 2200 soso, but will try 6s on it at one point and then this 2650...on 3s just awsome.

    You are definetly going to enjoy the MIP X duty, by the way I ended geeting the HR 10mm off set over the 12mm MIP hex, I retired the 17mm that I did not enjoy so much....if you think of bying it dont yet...I can send these over and try them first if you like them.
    Last edited by Jezza; 08-12-2015 at 06:30 PM.
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  18. #18
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    Thanks for the offer, Jezza! I was planning on going with the HR adapters, but wasn't sure about the offset. Isn't there a 6mm & a 10mm offset? Does 4mm really make that much of a difference or will I be limiting my wheel choices if I don't get the 10mm?
    Back to the MIP adapters, what didn't you like about them?

  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OSU Beaver 99 View Post
    Thanks for the offer, Jezza! I was planning on going with the HR adapters, but wasn't sure about the offset. Isn't there a 6mm & a 10mm offset? Does 4mm really make that much of a difference or will I be limiting my wheel choices if I don't get the 10mm?
    Back to the MIP adapters, what didn't you like about them?
    I though the 10mm would but not really sing the difference as such, I am glad I chose it though....I think squeegie chang from the 6mm to 1Omm offset as well...

    I had a hard time locking the wheel nuts, it had to be aligned dead centre otherwise you could never lock it. More over when I tighten the one side grub screw of the 17mm, the hex would slant, I think this is why I had hard time locking it....on ver hard bashing the wheel will just fall off even after I had locked the nut with blue loctite....
    Last edited by Jezza; 08-12-2015 at 07:00 PM.
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jezza View Post
    I though the 10mm would but not really sing the difference as such, I am glad I chose it though....I think squeegie chang from the 6mm to 1Omm offset as well...

    I had a hard time locking the wheel nuts, it had to be aligned dead centre otherwise you could never lock it. More over when I tighten the one side grub screw of the 17mm, the hex would slant, I think this is why I had hard time locking it....on ver hard bashing the wheel will just fall off even after I had locked the nut with blue loctite....
    Both things are very good to know. Thanks for the information. It sounds like the HR 10mm offset is the way to go. I haven't ordered the adapters yet because I was going to work on shredding all my old 12mm wheels first but maybe I'll get that coming.

    Side note, I sure wish some RC ebay retailer would have a name that doesn't have the letters "RC" or "hobby" in their name. It really makes it tough to explain when the credit card bill comes...

  21. #21
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jezza View Post
    I though the 10mm would but not really sing the difference as such, I am glad I chose it though....I think squeegie chang from the 6mm to 1Omm offset as well...

    I had a hard time locking the wheel nuts, it had to be aligned dead centre otherwise you could never lock it. More over when I tighten the one side grub screw of the 17mm, the hex would slant, I think this is why I had hard time locking it....on ver hard bashing the wheel will just fall off even after I had locked the nut with blue loctite....
    As I've recently posted on another thread:

    The MIP 17mm adapters aren't too difficult to mount straight.

    Just insert (loosely screw) the hex nut into the adapter before tightening the grub screws.
    Use the blue thread locker that came with their CVDs sparingly.
    Take your time tightening the grub screws back and forth until both are properly tightened.
    remove the hex nut and you're done.

    Their reason I changed to the HR adapters is that I did not like 3 things about the MIPs:
    1) I didn't like that the hub nut was so thin,
    2) it screws onto the axle shaft threads, and
    3) the adapters fit so tight that it was difficult to mount and remove my wheels.

    https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...=1#post6037484
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  22. #22
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post
    Their reason I changed to the HR adapters is that I did not like 3 things about the MIPs:
    1) I didn't like that the hub nut was so thin,
    2) it screws onto the axle shaft threads, and
    3) the adapters fit so tight that it was difficult to mount and remove my wheels.

    https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...=1#post6037484
    Infact the reasons you put also is the reasons why I did not enjoy it too much, I even had to shave the MIP hex a bit so that it would fit on my F11 and lock up wheels...

    I just did not enjoy fidleing with it......the HR one at least locks up on both the axle and then the whls with the 17mm nut outside.
    Live life to the fullest

  23. #23
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    Jezza/Squeegie, thanks a lot for the insight on the MIP adapters. I think I'll go with the 10mm offset HR adapters. However, I am very impressed with the quality of the MIP axles so far. Too bad that their adapters aren't quite in the same league.

    So, I just finished up with the rear end of the truck. The rear diff was a mess. Bone dry and full of debris. I got it all cleaned out and replaced the two failed bearings and greased everything. It's hard to believe that it even ran considering how much junk there was in there. I also had three seized wheel bearings. I just about used up my bearing supply so I'm glad that I bought that $20 complete set from Boca last week. Should be here tomorrow or Friday.

    I replaced the extremely worn rear RPM A-arms with the stock ones. No wonder I was always having to tighten up loose screws (hinge pin, shock mount), that thing was really wallowed out and bent. I also replaced the camber links. They had begun to strip out at the ball joint and were kinda worn out.

    Finally I got to tear into the MIP X-duty rear axles. These things are a piece of heavy metal beauty. The finish is very good and there is no fear of ever breaking one. The only thing I'm leery of is what happens if one of those grub screws comes out. MIP supplies their "Blue Thread Gel" with the kit and I applied it liberally. It will be at least a week before my truck is on the road so I figured that would be enough time to dry completely. Here are a couple pictures of those X-duties & the rear end of the truck (without shocks).





    Next up will be the front end diff service, bearing replacement, & MIP installation. After that it will be time to replace the shock oil & change the springs. Along those lines, I could use a little help with choosing the right shock oil. Now that my truck is going to be quite a bit heavier I'm not sure what to use. The heaviest weight oil I have is 45 but I can get more. I was thinking that I would run 45 on all four corners to start with and go from there. Any tips?

  24. #24
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    I am currently running 40w on all fours with the proline powerstrokes, I still have my traxxas big bores too, will use them one day.

    I just intslled acr nitraide ceramic bearings on my revo and if I like them I may slowly change all of mine on the erbe, slash and revo....
    Live life to the fullest

  25. #25
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    a sidewinder 8 is a good replacement for that sv3. keep it comin'
    Sl4sh, Arrma Talion, Stamp4de, Castle, MIP, RPM

  26. #26
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    I've been enjoying my mip HD's for a bit longer now and have no regrets with my purchase.
    I run two other rigs with tekno as well, one on its third year and they show little if any wear.
    While I have not one bad thing besides weight to say about the mips, and this should be a non issue with a 2200 or 2650 motor, I'll never buy another set, so far they've put up with nothing my teknos haven't at half the weight.
    Looking forward to hearing some storys and seeing some pics once you get it back up and running, boy are you in for a surprise.
    A very nice surprise as well.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  27. #27
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    First to respond back to Billy Bones, thanks for your encouragement and yes, those MIP X-duties are indeed heavy. Each axle from the output yoke to the stub axle, exclusive of hex, is 1.85 oz. In comparison, my buddy just upgraded his truck with the Teknos and says they come in at .875 oz each. So my choice of MIP X-duties added 3.9 oz of total weight to my truck vs his. I almost got the Teknos & they look really nice but once I saw the power of these lower kv motors I was no longer concerned about the extra mass. Side note, tonight after work as I was in the office rebuilding the front end of my Slash my buddy tried 4s on his new El Sob Special upgraded truck in the parking lot, lost control (naturally), and side-swiped a curb. The impact broke the left rear output yoke on his Tekno axle. I don't know if this is the weak spot on the Teknos or if it was just a freak accident. Here's a picture:


    Anyway, circling back to my build. Big surprise! The 2650kv motor came in a whole week early and really caught me off guard. I was pacing myself to do this over the next week according to the motor delivery schedule & I don't have all my parts yet, but no way I'm not getting this bad boy mounted tonight!

    I took some unboxing pictures and some pictures of how they compare with the 2-pole Velineon motor & the Castle 3800kv. I think the Velineon appears to be longer because of that plastic cap on the end. I didn't remove it for further comparison.









    For the record, the 2650kv came from China and very well may be a gray-market version or knock-off. I know that and I'm okay with it. For $50 I'm willing to gamble. Also, literally every single 2650kv Castle motor on ebay had some characteristic that has been identified as indicative of an imitation. They can't all be frauds, right? Lots of guys have had good luck with the $50 Chinese 2650kv "Castle" so I'm rolling the dice.

    Next up, what I got done tonight...
    Last edited by OSU Beaver 99; 08-13-2015 at 09:07 PM.

  28. #28
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    Okay, given the early arrival of the motor I did my best to get stuff together. First I serviced the front diff and replaced all the bearings. They were all in bad shape so it was a good thing I went through it. The diff was dry but not as bad as the rear end. A couple camber links were toast so I replace them. Then I got the new MIP X-duties put together and installed:


    Now it was time for the fun stuff, getting stuff mounted to the chassis! I moved the receiver box up to the front, where the holes matched up perfectly. Then I mounted the motor to the motor plate and installed the 18t pinion (included with the motor). I put in the modded slipper clutch to get the pinion placement on the shaft just right. Then I mounted the ESC and WOW, WHAT A JOY IT IS TO BE ABLE TO SCREW DOWN AN ESC!!! That Sidewinder 8th ESC has two mounting ears that just so happen to be perfectly spaced to mate up with two holes in the chassis. Coincidence? I think NOT! Two screws, 15 seconds, and I never have to worry about some servo tape coming loose or some system of zip-ties & shoe goo! When you shell out $100+ for an ESC to go into an RC that will be thoroughly abused it's so nice to be able to actually screw it down. Here's the new chassis arrangement:





    Finally I attached the rear & front ends to the chassis. This weekend I'll work on soldering on the battery connector to the ESC & servicing the shocks. On Jezza's advice I'll be replacing the current oil with 40W & I'm going to start with the Losi black front spring and silver rear. Here are a few pics of where I left off today:




  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by mxaustin View Post


    all i see is numbers..., thats all gibberish to me lol, all i know is alot of people have very good success with his systems and i havnt heard a single issue with it. as far as electric rc goes, i know it has an on/off switch. theres where my knowledge stops beisdes suspension tunning. talk to me about engines lol
    You haven't heard a single issue with it? I've heard at least two issues with it where the 3mm shaft/rotor has broke (El Sob himself), its still a great motor but he's better off with the 2650

  30. #30
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    You will love the 2650, I thought the El Sob would b my last change on the slash but the 2650 is just th sweet spot for it. No I will swap between the 2200 ans El Sob once in a while...
    Live life to the fullest

  31. #31
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Looks like its coming together nicely, sometimes I enjoy building them as much a running them.
    Have your buddy seen tekno an email with that pic and they'll send him another one.
    I've seen the HD mips fail in the same spot, they take a hard hit sometimes, well a lot lol.
    Best of luck on the maiden voyage, by the way, trees and pole jump out faster then curbs.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  32. #32
    RC Qualifier NoobPlayer03's Avatar
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    Mip X-Duty will be well worth it. I've had 2 mip x-duties twist and snap all the way through the cvd. On 3s. With the sidewinder 8. Be carful out there
    Aww, SNAP. You crashed into the curb at 100mph.

  33. #33
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    Wow, we're way past stock now! I can't wait for the maiden voyage. The motor came with an 18t pinion so I'll start with 18/54 and go from there. Best case, I'll get to try it on Saturday. I'll post up the results and once I get the hang of it I'll try to get some videos up too. I really appreciate all the help from you guys, thanks!

  34. #34
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    These giant 10-ga ESC wires are not easy to solder. And they're so big that they really don't fit into the Traxxas connector. Looks like I'm gonna have to dremel off a mm or so of the wire so it will mate up with the TRX connector.


  35. #35
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    I would get rid of the traxxas con and switchto a deans

  36. #36
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BuGgYbAsHeR.28 View Post
    I would get rid of the traxxas con and switchto a deans
    I got read of Dean and went back to Traxxas.
    Imo dean's are overrated and gave me nothing but connection issues.
    Last edited by billy-bones; 08-14-2015 at 12:35 PM.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  37. #37
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    I considered switching types but I couldn't come up with a compelling reason. Also, my family's three other RC rigs are all wired for TRX connectors so I'd be doing a lot of connector switching so we could continue to share batteries. Looks like it will definitely be tomorrow before I can try the new beast. I forgot to bring my transmitter with me to work today...

  38. #38
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OSU Beaver 99 View Post
    I considered switching types but I couldn't come up with a compelling reason. Also, my family's three other RC rigs are all wired for TRX connectors so I'd be doing a lot of connector switching so we could continue to share batteries. Looks like it will definitely be tomorrow before I can try the new beast. I forgot to bring my transmitter with me to work today...
    I had nothing but trouble with deans, imo soldering them up is the only advantage, even then you have t be quick or you melt the connecter.
    I've had deans come apart on me as well.
    I had four rigs and eight lipos wired with deans when I decided to go back to traxxas, imo well worth it.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  39. #39
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    Trx connectors for the win IMO

  40. #40
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    I got read
    LOL, perhaps rid of would have bin a better word then read.

    I forgot to bring my transmitter with me to work today...
    LOL, I got to a race once and as I unloaded the car realized I too had left my radio at home, about 35 miles away..
    Last edited by billy-bones; 08-14-2015 at 09:01 PM. Reason: Added quote
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

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