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  1. #1
    RC poster
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    Aug 2015
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    Batteries getting too hot.

    The Readers Digest version is my batteries are heating up to about 135-150 degrees after about a 5-6 minute run and I can't seem to find the problem. The motor is at about 120 after a run and the caps are around 150. The air temperature has been in the 85-95 range with a water temperature of around 80-85.

    My Set up:
    Stock motor, ESC, Flex Shaft and Prop.

    I have upgraded the cooling jacket, rudder, trim tabs, turning fins, and stinger drive using the components from RC Bot Bitz.
    http://www.rcboatbitz.biz/index.php?...oducts_id=1789

    I am using Venom 3S LiPo 5000 35c batteries.

    The boat ran great for a few months and then I started running into the low voltage cut off when I went hard into full throttle along with the excessive battery heat problem. I could ease into full throttle, but it would still kick in after about 6-7 seconds.

    My initial thought was binding in the flex cable. I took it all apart, realigned and reassembled. It got better, but both problems were still there.

    I noticed one of the batteries has puffed slightly and had them replaced. I am no longer getting the low voltage cut off, but the battery heat problem persists.

    I have been meticulous with the prop shaft maintenance since day one. I remove it and re-grease after every run and store it with the flex shaft out. The only maintenance I did not do initially was oiling the front and rear bearing on the motor. The motor had maybe 50-60 minutes of run time before I began oiling it before every run.

    There are two things I am still questioning regarding the flex shaft. Since I am new to RC boating they very well might be normal. The first is that the flex shaft always comes out wet and free of grease after a run. Second, the insert that runs the length of the tube fits snug, but can easily be slid forward and backwards.

    If both of those conditions are normal, what else is left that can cause the batteries to heat up so much?

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Feb 2012
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    Eastern Shore, Maryland
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    If both of those conditions are normal, what else is left that can cause the batteries to heat up so much?
    Both those conditions are normal if you can at least feel a slight amount of greasiness on your fingers with the flex shaft after a run. You won't see grease, but you can slightly feel grease.

    As far as your battery temps go, I usually see no more than 120*, but I'm using Traxxas 3s 6400's. If I remember right, when I used Traxxas 3s 5000 batteries (a long time ago), I think I was between 120* to 140* depending on how many runs I had done.

    As far as your LVD kicking in. I'd try a set of 3s 6400 Traxxas 25c, or 3s 6400 Venom 35c batteries. If your problem continues. I'd put back on all your original stock Spartan parts, and test your boat out. If your problem continues I'd call Traxxas Customer Service. If your problem goes away, I would change one stock component at a time with you new stuff until I seen your problem again. With that, I'd now know what component is causing me headaches. And with that, I'd now be in a better position to figure out "why" this singled out component is causing me headaches and grief.
    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 08-22-2015 at 06:16 AM.
    The ReglarGuy is kid tested and father approved.

  3. #3
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
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    2
    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    Both those conditions are normal if you can at least feel a slight amount of greasiness on your fingers with the flex shaft after a run. You won't see grease, but you can slightly feel grease.

    As far as your battery temps go, I usually see no more than 120*, but I'm using Traxxas 3s 6400's. If I remember right, when I used Traxxas 3s 5000 batteries (a long time ago), I think I was between 120* to 140* depending on how many runs I had done.

    As far as your LVD kicking in. I'd try a set of 3s 6400 Traxxas 25c, or 3s 6400 Venom 35c batteries. If your problem continues. I'd put back on all your original stock Spartan parts, and test your boat out. If your problem continues I'd call Traxxas Customer Service. If your problem goes away, I would change one stock component at a time with you new stuff until I seen your problem again. With that, I'd now know what component is causing me headaches. And with that, I'd now be in a better position to figure out "why" this singled out component is causing me headaches and grief.
    Thanks for the conformation that water on the flex shaft and a snug but not tight tube liner are normal.

    I have tried a parts change out with everything save for the rudder and the batteries with no luck.

    Unfortunately, the batteries are the only set I have. I have read that the Venom batteries are not exactly the best brand on the market and tend to overstate their C rating. I have been planning on dropping the coin on a pair of Max Amps 8000's though.

    Is there a way to check the bearings on the motor?

    Have you had any success with water cooling the batteries? I have seen a few products, but the reviews tend to be rather mixed.

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Feb 2012
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    I have a brushless motor tester, and I have the test results parameters of what you should see with a stock Spartan Castle made motor. If you ever test your motor to that extent let me know, and I'll give them for you.

    If you don't have a motor tester, all you can really do is run your motor in your electronics tray with your flex shaft assembly hooked up, and look/listen for anything out of the ordinary. With if/when you ever do that, you will need to careful. It is possible to goof-up your stuff/motor, if you get too crazy with your unloaded testing.

    All of my batteries for my Spartan are either Traxxas 6400/25c, Onyx 6400/25c, or Venom 6400/20c. I have never had any problems with running any of them. I do change the plugs on the Venoms to stock Traxxas plugs, though. I don't care for that Venom adapter plug thing.

    I have tried a parts change out with everything save for the rudder and the batteries with no luck.
    Re-read that last part of what I suggested to you to make sure you know where I'm coming from. It's important (when you don't have test equipment) to always only change one thing at a time when upgrading. If not, and something goes wrong, there is a good chance you won't know the cause.

    Also in your case, it's very important for you to go back to completely 100% stock, and see if you have any problems. If so, call Traxxas. Traxxas will only talk to you if you're stock. If your boat runs good all stock, put on (one at a time) your new parts. I'd start with your turn fins first (90*), then your trim tabs (90*), and then your strut (1mm down from parallel with the bottom of the boat. If you don't adjust you boat this way, you'll probably never get it dialed in right. Anyway, good luck with what ever you decide.

    P.S. Keep your batteries all the way forward to 1 inch back from the front of the battery trays when adjusting/running your boat.
    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 08-23-2015 at 05:56 AM.
    The ReglarGuy is kid tested and father approved.

  5. #5
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
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    146
    I didn't read every post here. Once I saw the OP uses venom batteries I knew the problem. Venom is over priced trash. I don't know if I can post this but after I paid 160$ for two pairs of venom batteries and the boat ran extremely hot I felt like I got ripped off.

    I then went ahead and purchased batteries, not only are the batteries SIGNIFICANTLY cooler there was an easy 5 mph increase in performance. As a matter of fact I gps the boat at 55.4 mph bone stock right down to the plastic prop. Ever since I use these exclusively in all my rc and there has been a notable increase in performance in all of them.

    Gps proof this is just by adding these batteries no other modification at all. The boat was chine walking like crazy aslo, I bet I can squeeze out 2-3 mph more

    Last edited by Double G; 09-27-2015 at 08:26 AM. Reason: banned brand name

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    439
    i know i had used venom batteries in my rc truck and they took a dump after a week.i will never buy them again.and 1 thing i did to help cool down the inside of the boat was to drill holes in the fake vents in the lid.i drilled 3 holes on each side front and back and it helped a lot.i know if i roll it over it will be bad but i try to be super careful but have rolled it and i didn't see much of a difference in water in the boat with the extra holes then without.

  7. #7
    RC Enthusiast
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    Aug 2015
    Location
    Minnesota
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    30
    +1 that the venom batteries are garbage. Although I've had no issues with them in my revo, they ran super hot in my Spartan and started to puff up. They are noticeable slower and also cut out unlike my traxxas lipos that came with the boat. I've had really good luck with the traxxas lipos and plan on getting another set.
    Aton E-Revo Spartan
    BJv3/XR10

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier PowerDemon's Avatar
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    Jun 2011
    Location
    Fredericksburg, VA
    Posts
    404
    Your battery temperatures are in my opinion normal. Mine got 110-120 depending on how hard I was on the throttle. I was using Traxxas batteries. If you want to lower your battery temperatures I would recommend being easier on the throttle or upgrade batteries. Personally I don’t like running anything under 45C discharge in my boats due to the large amperage draw of FE boats. Hope this helps!
    37 Fightercat Shocker
    Traxxas Spartan

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    USA
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    3,138
    Quote Originally Posted by Macleod57 View Post
    The Readers Digest version is my batteries are heating up to about 135-150 degrees after about a 5-6 minute run and I can't seem to find the problem. The motor is at about 120 after a run and the caps are around 150. The air temperature has been in the 85-95 range with a water temperature of around 80-85.

    My Set up:
    Stock motor, ESC, Flex Shaft and Prop.

    I have upgraded the cooling jacket, rudder, trim tabs, turning fins, and stinger drive using the components from RC Bot Bitz.
    http://www.rcboatbitz.biz/index.php?...oducts_id=1789

    I am using Venom 3S LiPo 5000 35c batteries.

    The boat ran great for a few months and then I started running into the low voltage cut off when I went hard into full throttle along with the excessive battery heat problem. I could ease into full throttle, but it would still kick in after about 6-7 seconds.

    My initial thought was binding in the flex cable. I took it all apart, realigned and reassembled. It got better, but both problems were still there.

    I noticed one of the batteries has puffed slightly and had them replaced. I am no longer getting the low voltage cut off, but the battery heat problem persists.

    I have been meticulous with the prop shaft maintenance since day one. I remove it and re-grease after every run and store it with the flex shaft out. The only maintenance I did not do initially was oiling the front and rear bearing on the motor. The motor had maybe 50-60 minutes of run time before I began oiling it before every run.

    There are two things I am still questioning regarding the flex shaft. Since I am new to RC boating they very well might be normal. The first is that the flex shaft always comes out wet and free of grease after a run. Second, the insert that runs the length of the tube fits snug, but can easily be slid forward and backwards.

    If both of those conditions are normal, what else is left that can cause the batteries to heat up so much?
    Buddy, my first question to you is
    How low are you taking your packs after each run?

    and about your LVC
    it sounds like your packs are worn out and not able to deliver full power like they once could

    I race in NAMBA in several classes, and my packs only get to those temps when I take them to low
    our races are 2min and less, and we can use up 3500-6000mah depending on what class is being raced
    I also use the highest C ratings I can get my hands on
    First MiniSlash
    HK6XL Revo 4s 60mph Amsoil dealer

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