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  1. #841
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    Outstanding thread guys. Thanks to everyone that asked and answered questions. So much use able info. I probably have 40 screenshots for easier reference lol

  2. #842
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. GeneralPede01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by illiniharrison View Post
    Outstanding thread guys. Thanks to everyone that asked and answered questions. So much use able info. I probably have 40 screenshots for easier reference lol
    Thanks, I never expected my thread to have this many views and replies lol.


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  3. #843
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    Quote Originally Posted by GeneralPede01 View Post
    Thanks, I never expected my thread to have this many views and replies lol.


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    Last edited by Briber; 09-12-2016 at 09:25 PM.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  4. #844
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    Quote Originally Posted by Briber View Post
    Mr humility!!! Lol You rock my friend.

    Sent from Eastern Missouri
    Lol thanks I do what I can


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  5. #845
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    hey general how come you went back to nylon/plastic steering hubs and c-blocks for the front and back to plastic in the rear? did the aluminum parts not hold up or what made you put them other parts back on?

  6. #846
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOFTCHX View Post
    hey general how come you went back to nylon/plastic steering hubs and c-blocks for the front and back to plastic in the rear? did the aluminum parts not hold up or what made you put them other parts back on?
    I switched backed to plastic hubs in front, because after awhile with aluminum on aluminum it's eats itself away and causes a lot of swap. I done the bearing mod and that helped. I just wanted to try the hot racing and rpm combo since hot racing castor block have adjustable screws to help eliminate castor and hub slop. I still have rear aluminum hubs.


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  7. #847
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    ohh no doubt. what bearing mod did you use? I just got fast eddy bearings and am working on putting those in on top of other mods like the dynamite temperature recording system and others, I love the wrenching and the after of seeing your work. What did you use for bearing mod? When you used the hot racing with the rpm did you need to use washers or shims?

  8. #848
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    https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...-reduction-mod
    Link to the bearing mod, didn't use washers or shims. Hot racing castor come with a set of bushings.


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  9. #849
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    I remember reading that, I thought you meant you did all new bearings all around. What degree do you have the rear aluminum hubs?

  10. #850
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    Na I just done the bearings for the aluminum blocks and hubs. I have mine reversed so it's at 1 degree.


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  11. #851
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    have you ever tried them normal with 4 degrees? IF so what do you think performs better with the hot racing and rpm setup? (The rear set at normal or the rear set at reverse?) Just wondering have you ever switched out the bearings at all?

  12. #852
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOFTCHX View Post
    have you ever tried them normal with 4 degrees? IF so what do you think performs better with the hot racing and rpm setup? (The rear set at normal or the rear set at reverse?) Just wondering have you ever switched out the bearings at all?
    Yes when I very first installed them I had them at 4 degrees till I found out you could switch them around to change the degree. I like it at 1 degree, but not everyone does. Not sure what your asking about the bearings. If your asking if I've wore out bearings and changed them then yes, if your asking if I've switched brands then no, I still use traxxas bearings.


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  13. #853
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    you answered what I asked man thank you. I'm with you and I prefer my rear at 1 degree also, I feel its more stable. What is your thoughts on running mod 1 gears in place of mod .8 gears? I have 9tooth all the up to 24 tooth pinion gear in mod 1 and 36tooth to 40 tooth spur gears and I wanted to possible always run mod 1 in place of the mod .8. I thought put the 9t pinion on and 40t spur to start and if its ok then keep or move up in pinion if need be. What is your thoughts(and anyone else that would like to add I thank you general and everyone else out there.) on doing that to my p4de with a mamba monster x 2650kv system?

  14. #854
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOFTCHX View Post
    you answered what I asked man thank you. I'm with you and I prefer my rear at 1 degree also, I feel its more stable. What is your thoughts on running mod 1 gears in place of mod .8 gears? I have 9tooth all the up to 24 tooth pinion gear in mod 1 and 36tooth to 40 tooth spur gears and I wanted to possible always run mod 1 in place of the mod .8. I thought put the 9t pinion on and 40t spur to start and if its ok then keep or move up in pinion if need be. What is your thoughts(and anyone else that would like to add I thank you general and everyone else out there.) on doing that to my p4de with a mamba monster x 2650kv system?
    Me personally see no need to use mod 1 gears for bashing, 32 pitch/.8 mods gears will do just fine. Only time I used a mod 1 setup was for speedruns only.


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  15. #855
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    ohh. do you know of people running mod 1 gears all the time? when you put together the front steering hub assembly did you use any grease or oil when you put it together?

  16. #856
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOFTCHX View Post
    ohh. do you know of people running mod 1 gears all the time? when you put together the front steering hub assembly did you use any grease or oil when you put it together?
    Some ppl do, it's not necessary but if you want to run mod1 gears all the time you can. No I use any grease to put front hub assembly together.


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  17. #857
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    fair enough man thanks for now.

  18. #858
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOFTCHX View Post
    fair enough man thanks for now.
    No problem, and hope you get it all going good.


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