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  1. #41
    RC Qualifier NBViper's Avatar
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    ViperX-Maxx (8S) build

    I'm planning on multiple mounting points. If you look at one of my illustration, you'll see a strap where the rear mount is originally located.

    Also, a 5882 should fit with very little modification... but that doesn't sound very fun to me.
    Last edited by NBViper; 12-12-2015 at 01:56 PM.
    -=/ X-Maxx - 8S XLX/2028 \=-

  2. #42
    RC Qualifier NBViper's Avatar
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    Also, for reference. The original motor measures approx 56mm x 85mm when you include the cooling fins.
    -=/ X-Maxx - 8S XLX/2028 \=-

  3. #43
    RC Qualifier NBViper's Avatar
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    Just picked this beast up!!! Showed up to the local hobby store as the owner was unloading them from his truck.


    Now to get these to fit in there!!!

  4. #44
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wolfslash16's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NBViper View Post
    Just picked this beast up!!! Showed up to the local hobby store as the owner was unloading them from his truck.


    Now to get these to fit in there!!!
    Okay now things get interesting! Congrats!
    Is owning 27 RC's too many? No way!

  5. #45
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    sweet man. congratulations
    We are all one race. The human race.

  6. #46
    RC Champion soundmaster's Avatar
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    Cool. Subscribed!!!

  7. #47
    RC Qualifier NBViper's Avatar
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    I couldn't stop myself from taking this thing apart!

    Here a few fit & size pictures.




    Here is the stock front mount, which I plan to modify to make work (for testing). I'll have a more permanent solution machined:

  8. #48
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    Looks like it's gona be a handful

  9. #49
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    Don't forget about the space for a 30 tooth pinion.

  10. #50
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    Nice build....a monster beyond monster...
    Live life to the fullest

  11. #51
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    Nice build mate, will be following this one.

  12. #52
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    the motor is HUGE! you could plop that into a real 1:1 car and take it for a drive a la Tesla!

    good luck with this build. Super curious to see if it can be done.
    I have an RC problem...

  13. #53
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    Man this thing is gonna be crazy. Can't wait to see what you come up with.

  14. #54
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    following this one as well as I have the setup in my DBXL that I may move over. Main worry is whether the Xmaxx going to handle the power. Mine logs about 9000 watts on the esc. Thinking at min a metal spur will be needed

  15. #55
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    Video Vidoe!

  16. #56
    RC poster
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    Wow, just wow

  17. #57
    RC Qualifier rtmike's Avatar
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    What he said...

  18. #58
    RC Qualifier NBViper's Avatar
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    Now to make the electrical connections.
    - 8mm bullet connectors on 8AWG wire between the ESC and Motor
    - Traxxas Connectors to the batteries connected in parallel.

  19. #59
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Nice start! Keep it up man. That ESC/motor combo is a beast!
    We are all one race. The human race.

  20. #60
    RC Qualifier NBViper's Avatar
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    Soldering Done... man, that took a LOT of heat! Needed a bit of propane help on the 8mm bullets.

  21. #61
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Everything is looking really top notch so far. If I could, I'd like to ask you a few questions. Is the motor you're using the same size as what's used in an XO-1? If not, would the Castle XO-1 motor fit better as a replacement motor in the Xmaxx?
    The ReglarGuy is kid tested and father approved.

  22. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    Everything is looking really top notch so far. If I could, I'd like to ask you a few questions. Is the motor you're using the same size as what's used in an XO-1? If not, would the Castle XO-1 motor fit better as a replacement motor in the Xmaxx?
    It would fit better but its not really much of an upgrade over stock. 2028 is pretty much the only upgrade but will require a little finesse. Stay tuned.
    X-Maxx - 8S Castle XLX/2028

  23. #63
    RC Qualifier Fuglio's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NBViper View Post
    - Traxxas Connectors to the batteries connected in parallel
    You mean series right?


    Last edited by Fuglio; 12-19-2015 at 10:30 AM.

  24. #64
    RC Qualifier NBViper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fuglio View Post
    You mean series right? Whats in parallel?
    Correct, Series!!! It was late at night when I posted.
    -=/ X-Maxx - 8S XLX/2028 \=-

  25. #65
    RC Qualifier Fuglio's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NBViper View Post
    Correct, Series!!! It was late at night when I posted.
    Its gonna be awesome. You are trail blazing. Hopefully not to much will need to be done to the drive train, but im sure youll be ready. Do you have any solutions in mind for any possible drive train failures? Where do you suppose the weakest link is right now?

  26. #66
    RC Qualifier NBViper's Avatar
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    Really hard to say where the weakest point will be. Coming from a 6S E-Revo, I'm very curious how the diffs will hold up. Good thing about the Castle XL2 is I can throttle down the launch power at first and slowly increase it.

    Had it's maiden stock voyage this morning (My 3yo at the control for a bit, training mode of course):

  27. #67
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    video asap...

  28. #68
    RC Qualifier SkidMan's Avatar
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    Really nice thread here!!
    -Blue X-maxx
    -E-Maxx 60.2mph
    -Spartan 48.2mph

  29. #69
    RC Qualifier NBViper's Avatar
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    XL2 Mounting Plate:
    Made this from some 2" x 1/8" thick aluminum plate. Threaded holes to mount the XL2 to the plate, then larger holes to zip-tie the plate to the braces of the X-Maxx. Eventually I'd like to have a nicer mount (perhaps Razor will help me here), but this will do the job for now.



    Test fit

  30. #70
    RC Qualifier NBViper's Avatar
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    ViperX-Maxx (8S) build

    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    Everything is looking really top notch so far. If I could, I'd like to ask you a few questions. Is the motor you're using the same size as what's used in an XO-1? If not, would the Castle XO-1 motor fit better as a replacement motor in the Xmaxx?
    As B1gDawg mentioned: The XO-1 motor appears to be rated very similarly to the current stock motor (1650kv vs 1600kv), similar size as well. The Castle 2028 is a true 1/5th scale motor that is designed to handle up to 12S (50V). There are some other 1/5th scale options available as well, kershawdesigns.com has a few listed on there site.
    Last edited by NBViper; 12-19-2015 at 05:39 PM.
    -=/ X-Maxx - 8S XLX/2028 \=-

  31. #71
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    That motor can drive a 28lb buggy on its back wheels and not break a sweat. 8s is a conservative power level, and that setup will be sniffing out any weak point in your entire drivetrain. My suggestions- steel spur. Some type of slipper or way to soften drivetrain shock from the motor. Invest heavily in drivetrain parts. A motor that size is a fat guy and your truck is an all you can eat buffet.

  32. #72
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Thanks B1gDawg for answering my question. I have another if someone is up for it.

    Is there a motor that would be better than stock, could be used with the XL2, and still be able to use the original Xmaxx motor mount with minimum adaption efforts?
    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 12-19-2015 at 05:46 PM.
    The ReglarGuy is kid tested and father approved.

  33. #73
    RC Qualifier NBViper's Avatar
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    I'm going to leave the spur gear plastic right now and make it the sacrificial lamb. If anyone finds a Mod 1 steel spur that will work with the stock slipper, let me know. I haven't found any yet. Perhaps a custom one ($$$) would have to be made.
    -=/ X-Maxx - 8S XLX/2028 \=-

  34. #74
    RC Qualifier NBViper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    Thanks B1gDawg for answering my question. I have another if someone is up for it.

    Is there a motor that would be better than stock, could be used with the XL2, and still be able to use the original Xmaxx motor mount with minimum adaption efforts?
    Short answer is NO. Unfortunately the mount to motor interface is specially designed and not standard.
    -=/ X-Maxx - 8S XLX/2028 \=-

  35. #75
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    Is there any good reason you can see that it was designed this way instead of using typical mounting points like existing motors? Or basically just a way to limit us to buying motors from Traxxas only?
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  36. #76
    RC Qualifier NBViper's Avatar
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    No clue, same question could be asked about the servo design they are using.
    -=/ X-Maxx - 8S XLX/2028 \=-

  37. #77
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    Okay. Haha. I was hoping to read, "It seems to be very sturdy, or rigid, creates a more consistent mesh" blah blah blah or the like .
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  38. #78
    RC Qualifier NBViper's Avatar
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    oh yeah, I'm sure it does all that wonderful stuff too! Especially seeing all the other engineering work that went into this truck.
    -=/ X-Maxx - 8S XLX/2028 \=-

  39. #79
    RC Qualifier NBViper's Avatar
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    Ok, here it is.


    Of course, I took some photos along the way. Here it is un-modified.


    First thing is the removal of the top brace. (8 screws above, 4 below, all easily accessible)


    VXL-6S ESC Removed (2 screws)


    Motor Removed (4 screws from below)


    Switched Spur gear to 46T (4 screws)
    Last edited by NBViper; 12-20-2015 at 12:27 AM.

  40. #80
    RC Qualifier NBViper's Avatar
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    Next step is to modify the mounts to accept the Castle 2028 motor (before shot)


    Rear mount (left) was shaved down to allow the motor to extend past it. Front mount (right) had the motor shaft hole opened up through the top to allow the 8mm shaft to fit. The two nubs were also shaved down.


    Notice the convenient holes in the bottom of the mounts? I think some zip ties will fit perfectly!


    The front mount has a screw hole that lines up perfectly with the front of the Castle motor.


    And here are the mounts attached to the Castle motor.


    Let's see if it fits... Looks good!!!
    Note: What you can't see is that I had to raise the mounts off of the bottom about 1/4 inch to allow the rear of the motor to clear the chassis (where to original ESC was). I did this so I would not have to modify the chassis as I originally planned.


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