What!!!! lol i want a set now but crap thats some $$$$$
https://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?...5#.XVB3DOhKgXh
If it allows for a body wrap to adhere to it, I might consider it.....
Well I got some money for the rebuild/mod list I would like to get a new motor. I'm thinking about the tp5860 1440kv but idk if my Kershaw motor mount is strong enough.
I would not recommend TP5860 1440kv, i have many issues.. first its 441A, I'm getting low voltage warnings under full load, higher C-rated Lipos help but Max5 esc is to weak to handle 441A, not getting out full potential. It also have weak shaft, pinion backing off, vibrations and only warranty in China etc.
i think if you want extreme power, go Lehner 3060 built-in fan and ztw beast 300a or 250a mgm esc.
That's what I was afraid of. But I already ordered it lol. Oh well I got some 70c lipos but the max 5 will be getting upgraded in 2-4 weeks. Truck is getting it's yearly cleaning and rebuild. So I can wait for a esc or get a different motor. Also I'm just a basher no need for top speed runs much.
Last edited by dallas1990; 08-16-2019 at 02:52 AM.
Probably his solder didn't want to stick
Crap I bought 3.5mm bullets for my leopard motor lol. What size do I need
Today I procrastinated replacing my steering servo again!![]()
You need 6.5 mm for the max5
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Tin would not stick to it due to the coating of the copper I’ve tried using sand paper,blow torch,and alcohol to remove the copper coating and still tin would not stick to it,so I end up taking to a electronic repair shop that has been soldering for years and even he said he had a hard time soldering the copper wire on the motor.
"AVENGED SEVENFOLD "
I want you to know, that I'm only telling you this to help you. I'm not trying to be a smart fleshy rear area of a human being, okay. I've soldered bullets on Max5's plenty of times for my friends (so that they could have cleaner installations), and I've never seen a coating on the copper wires. (IMO) there is a very reasonable chance that you're not using a hot enough iron.
To do Max5 wires you need a Waller100 soldering iron (or equivalent) with a 7/8" flat tip (picture below/right). However, if by a crazy chance you do have some sort of coating on your copper wires, you can use M.E.K. to remove it. Nothing on earth (I'm exaggerating a very small, teeny tiny bit) can stand up to M.E.K. except glass and the material types that make glass.
P.S. If you ever use M.E.K you definitely want to follow all the safety precautions for using it.
Last edited by ReglarGuy; 08-17-2019 at 03:34 AM.
The ReglarGuy is kid tested and father approved.
Not trying to speak for him, but I believe his problem was with the bullets on a leopard motor, not the max 5. I feel like we, the forum, had a discussion about checking motor wires for "solderability" when I was upgrading my motor. Either way, I agree with what you said. When I was putting the correct size bullets on my motor I had to put a new tip on for the last one because it just wasn't getting hot enough. Motor wire can be funny, I see how he was having a problem.
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Last edited by nickruger; 08-17-2019 at 06:44 AM.
Really bad solder job. Im still learning but it works and no resistance. https://imgur.com/gallery/AfANE4N
That looks like a cold solder joint. The best way to solder is to tin each wire first then attach. make sure you use flux, enough heat and heat-sink clamps if need be.
The solder should wick onto the material being soldered. If it doesn't then your material is either dirty or too cold. The solder should never be lumpy at all. That is a sign that the solder and not the wires are being heated.
Apply the iron to the wires and the solder to the wires, not the iron tip. If the wires are clean and hot enough, the solder will flow onto them easily.
Also, make sure you are using the correct solder...there are different types.
Last edited by USMC1984; 08-17-2019 at 08:23 AM.
Yes, it looks like he was. The good news is, though, that that's the same motor I have on my Xmaxx, so I can still offer him the same advice.
I shortened the wires on my XLX and Leopard 5892 1340kv motor with no soldering problems using my Weller100 soldering iron. Just for the sake of conversation, mind you, I do test any ESC's and motors I want to solder out first before I start cutting leads.
From what I've seen in the past and present (from doing many over the years) is, the ESC's and motors that can't have their leads shortened and re-soldered, are usually the smaller ones used for small scale RC's. Not all smaller motors and ESC's, but if I come across one that can't be soldered, it's the smaller scaled stuff.
Last edited by ReglarGuy; 08-17-2019 at 09:57 AM.
The ReglarGuy is kid tested and father approved.
yea i just need to watch more videos and spend more time doing it
good idea thanks![]()
This might help.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIT4ra6Mo0s
The ReglarGuy is kid tested and father approved.
thanks i'll watch it now. i just got home from town and bought some better solder. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Welp decided to play with truck to test the new leopard 58113 870KV
Geared at 25/30 1.5mod after 10mins run, boooommm!!! there goes my rear differential
"AVENGED SEVENFOLD "
https://imgur.com/gallery/dmhy6Zo hows it look? I bought a smaller (physical size) soldering iron and the heat shrink was a little to big so that's why it's burned a little. But that's the cleanest soldering I've done![]()
just bought some stronger belts for my belt drive. i stretched the belt i got with the pulleys. if i do the same thing again im going mod 1.5 gears. i got a pair of 225-15mm (wide) 5m belts and a pair of 220-15mm (wide) 5m belts.