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  1. #1561
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    Quote Originally Posted by dallas1990 View Post
    Well I got some money for the rebuild/mod list I would like to get a new motor. I'm thinking about the tp5860 1440kv but idk if my Kershaw motor mount is strong enough.
    I would not recommend TP5860 1440kv, i have many issues.. first its 441A, I'm getting low voltage warnings under full load, higher C-rated Lipos help but Max5 esc is to weak to handle 441A, not getting out full potential. It also have weak shaft, pinion backing off, vibrations and only warranty in China etc.

    i think if you want extreme power, go Lehner 3060 built-in fan and ztw beast 300a or 250a mgm esc.

  2. #1562
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    Quote Originally Posted by VIX View Post
    I would not recommend TP5860 1440kv, i have many issues.. first its 441A, I'm getting low voltage warnings under full load, higher C-rated Lipos help but Max5 esc is to weak to handle 441A, not getting out full potential. It also have weak shaft, pinion backing off, vibrations and only warranty in China etc.

    i think if you want extreme power, go Lehner 3060 built-in fan and ztw beast 300a or 250a mgm esc.
    That's what I was afraid of. But I already ordered it lol. Oh well I got some 70c lipos but the max 5 will be getting upgraded in 2-4 weeks. Truck is getting it's yearly cleaning and rebuild. So I can wait for a esc or get a different motor. Also I'm just a basher no need for top speed runs much.
    Last edited by dallas1990; 08-16-2019 at 02:52 AM.

  3. #1563
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    Quote Originally Posted by dallas1990 View Post
    That's what I was afraid of. But I already ordered it lol. Oh well I got some 70c lipos but the max 5 will be getting upgraded in 2-4 weeks. Truck is getting it's yearly cleaning and rebuild. So I can wait for a esc or get a different motor
    What esc are you upgrading to from the Max 5? Or are you upgrading the parts on the Max 5? If so anymore info?

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    Last edited by G8eraid; 08-16-2019 at 02:43 AM.

  4. #1564
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    Quote Originally Posted by G8eraid View Post
    What esc are you upgrading to from the Max 5? Or are you upgrading the parts on the Max 5? If so anymore info?

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    Probably the ztw beast 300 amp esc. I do have a leopard hobby 5892 1340kv but need to resolder a bullet connector on it. If the tp gives me to much trouble with the max 5.

  5. #1565
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    Quote Originally Posted by dallas1990 View Post
    Probably the ztw beast 300 amp esc. I do have a leopard hobby 5892 1340kv but need to resolder a bullet connector on it. If the tp gives me to much trouble with the max 5.
    I had the leopard 5892 1340kv and tried to resolder bullet connector but I could not solder it because leopard 5892 had a Copper wires.
    "AVENGED SEVENFOLD "

  6. #1566
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    Quote Originally Posted by dallas1990 View Post
    That's what I was afraid of. But I already ordered it lol. Oh well I got some 70c lipos but the max 5 will be getting upgraded in 2-4 weeks. Truck is getting it's yearly cleaning and rebuild. So I can wait for a esc or get a different motor. Also I'm just a basher no need for top speed runs much.
    I would send TP5860 back, refund. It’s a heavy motor for bashing, I would only replace stock ESC to max6, Proline armor body with washers and replace stock parts that’s break a long the way to stronger enjoy the jumps

  7. #1567
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    Quote Originally Posted by PATS4LIFE View Post
    I had the leopard 5892 1340kv and tried to resolder bullet connector but I could not solder it because leopard 5892 had a Copper wires.
    well double crap. 2 fingers broke off the connector which is why it needs fixed.

    Quote Originally Posted by VIX View Post
    I would send TP5860 back, refund. It’s a heavy motor for bashing, I would only replace stock ESC to max6, Proline armor body with washers and replace stock parts that’s break a long the way to stronger enjoy the jumps
    to late the old stock parts where sold 2 years ago.

  8. #1568
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    Quote Originally Posted by PATS4LIFE View Post
    I had the leopard 5892 1340kv and tried to resolder bullet connector but I could not solder it because leopard 5892 had a Copper wires.
    I donít understand the copper wire problem. Can you explain?
    Alt-248 on the number pad = į

  9. #1569
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    Probably his solder didn't want to stick

  10. #1570
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    Crap I bought 3.5mm bullets for my leopard motor lol. What size do I need

  11. #1571
    RC Qualifier USMC1984's Avatar
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    Today I procrastinated replacing my steering servo again!

  12. #1572
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    You need 6.5 mm for the max5


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  13. #1573
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    Quote Originally Posted by ksb51rl View Post
    I don’t understand the copper wire problem. Can you explain?
    Tin would not stick to it due to the coating of the copper I’ve tried using sand paper,blow torch,and alcohol to remove the copper coating and still tin would not stick to it,so I end up taking to a electronic repair shop that has been soldering for years and even he said he had a hard time soldering the copper wire on the motor.
    "AVENGED SEVENFOLD "

  14. #1574
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    Quote Originally Posted by Overpowerxmaxx View Post
    You need 6.5 mm for the max5


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    thank you I'll go to my LHS in the morning for them.

  15. #1575
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    Quote Originally Posted by PATS4LIFE View Post
    Tin would not stick to it due to the coating of the copper I’ve tried using sand paper,blow torch,and alcohol to remove the copper coating and still tin would not stick to it,so I end up taking to a electronic repair shop that has been soldering for years and even he said he had a hard time soldering the copper wire on the motor.
    I want you to know, that I'm only telling you this to help you. I'm not trying to be a smart fleshy rear area of a human being, okay. I've soldered bullets on Max5's plenty of times for my friends (so that they could have cleaner installations), and I've never seen a coating on the copper wires. (IMO) there is a very reasonable chance that you're not using a hot enough iron.

    To do Max5 wires you need a Waller100 soldering iron (or equivalent) with a 7/8" flat tip (picture below/right). However, if by a crazy chance you do have some sort of coating on your copper wires, you can use M.E.K. to remove it. Nothing on earth (I'm exaggerating a very small, teeny tiny bit) can stand up to M.E.K. except glass and the material types that make glass.



    P.S. If you ever use M.E.K you definitely want to follow all the safety precautions for using it.
    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 08-17-2019 at 03:34 AM.
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  16. #1576
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    I want you to know, that I'm only telling you this to help you. I'm not trying to be a smart fleshy rear area of a human being, okay. I've soldered bullets on Max5's plenty of times for my friends (so that they could have cleaner installations), and I've never seen a coating on the copper wires. (IMO) there is a very reasonable chance that you're not using a hot enough iron.

    To do Max5 wires you need a Waller100 soldering iron (or equivalent) with a 7/8" flat tip (picture below/right). However, if by a crazy chance you do have some sort of coating on your copper wires, you can use M.E.K. to remove it. Nothing on earth (I'm exaggerating a very small, teeny tiny bit) can stand up to M.E.K. except glass and the material types that make glass.



    P.S. If you ever use M.E.K you definitely want to follow all the safety precautions for using it.
    Not trying to speak for him, but I believe his problem was with the bullets on a leopard motor, not the max 5. I feel like we, the forum, had a discussion about checking motor wires for "solderability" when I was upgrading my motor. Either way, I agree with what you said. When I was putting the correct size bullets on my motor I had to put a new tip on for the last one because it just wasn't getting hot enough. Motor wire can be funny, I see how he was having a problem.

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    Last edited by nickruger; 08-17-2019 at 06:44 AM.

  17. #1577
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    Really bad solder job. Im still learning but it works and no resistance. https://imgur.com/gallery/AfANE4N

  18. #1578
    RC Qualifier USMC1984's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dallas1990 View Post
    Really bad solder job. Im still learning but it works and no resistance. https://imgur.com/gallery/AfANE4N
    That looks like a cold solder joint. The best way to solder is to tin each wire first then attach. make sure you use flux, enough heat and heat-sink clamps if need be.

    The solder should wick onto the material being soldered. If it doesn't then your material is either dirty or too cold. The solder should never be lumpy at all. That is a sign that the solder and not the wires are being heated.

    Apply the iron to the wires and the solder to the wires, not the iron tip. If the wires are clean and hot enough, the solder will flow onto them easily.

    Also, make sure you are using the correct solder...there are different types.
    Last edited by USMC1984; 08-17-2019 at 08:23 AM.

  19. #1579
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    Not trying to speak for him, but I believe his problem was with the bullets on a leopard motor, not the max 5. I feel like we, the forum, had a discussion about checking motor wires for "solderability" when I was upgrading my motor. Either way, I agree with what you said. When I was putting the correct size bullets on my motor I had to put a new tip on for the last one because it just wasn't getting hot enough. Motor wire can be funny, I see how he was having a problem.
    Yes, it looks like he was. The good news is, though, that that's the same motor I have on my Xmaxx, so I can still offer him the same advice.

    I shortened the wires on my XLX and Leopard 5892 1340kv motor with no soldering problems using my Weller100 soldering iron. Just for the sake of conversation, mind you, I do test any ESC's and motors I want to solder out first before I start cutting leads.

    From what I've seen in the past and present (from doing many over the years) is, the ESC's and motors that can't have their leads shortened and re-soldered, are usually the smaller ones used for small scale RC's. Not all smaller motors and ESC's, but if I come across one that can't be soldered, it's the smaller scaled stuff.
    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 08-17-2019 at 09:57 AM.
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  20. #1580
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    Quote Originally Posted by USMC1984 View Post
    That looks like a cold solder joint. The best way to solder is to tin each wire first then attach. make sure you use flux, enough heat and heat-sink clamps if need be.

    The solder should wick onto the material being soldered. If it doesn't then your material is either dirty or too cold. The solder should never be lumpy at all. That is a sign that the solder and not the wires are being heated.

    Apply the iron to the wires and the solder to the wires, not the iron tip. If the wires are clean and hot enough, the solder will flow onto them easily.

    Also, make sure you are using the correct solder...there are different types.
    Thanks for the tips. Lol luckily I bought 100 pairs of connectors. Also I guess I thought you heated the solder. So I did it backwards. But that's the part of learning

  21. #1581
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    Quote Originally Posted by dallas1990 View Post
    Thanks for the tips. Lol luckily I bought 100 pairs of connectors. Also I guess I thought you heated the solder. So I did it backwards. But that's the part of learning
    Do you understand what tinning is? I shouldn't have assumed you or anyone else does, on the other hand, if you do, no offence is meant.

  22. #1582
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    yea i just need to watch more videos and spend more time doing it

  23. #1583
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    Quote Originally Posted by dallas1990 View Post
    yea i just need to watch more videos and spend more time doing it
    You might also want to use heat sink clamps to prevent overheating the insulation as well.
    Make sure you have the proper solder and flux too.

  24. #1584
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    good idea thanks

  25. #1585
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    The ReglarGuy is kid tested and father approved.

  26. #1586
    RC Qualifier USMC1984's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    What a gem! LOL, that reminded me of the films I saw in the military.

    I love those old tutorial films with no BS, they got right to it in the Sgt Joe Friday voice.
    Last edited by USMC1984; 08-18-2019 at 08:19 AM.

  27. #1587
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    thanks i'll watch it now. i just got home from town and bought some better solder. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

  28. #1588
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    Welp decided to play with truck to test the new leopard 58113 870KV
    Geared at 25/30 1.5mod after 10mins run, boooommm!!! there goes my rear differential ��
    "AVENGED SEVENFOLD "

  29. #1589
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    Quote Originally Posted by PATS4LIFE View Post
    Welp decided to play with truck to test the new leopard 58113 870KV
    Geared at 25/30 1.5mod after 10mins run, boooommm!!! there goes my rear differential ��
    Didnít you have fast lane internals?


    Somehow builds are never done....

  30. #1590
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    https://imgur.com/gallery/dmhy6Zo hows it look? I bought a smaller (physical size) soldering iron and the heat shrink was a little to big so that's why it's burned a little. But that's the cleanest soldering I've done

  31. #1591
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    Didnít you have fast lane internals?

    Yes I did and now Iím trying to get it replace through warranty,Iíve sent email with pics yesterday and still havenít got a respond so will see.


    Somehow builds are never done....




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  32. #1592
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    Quote Originally Posted by PATS4LIFE View Post




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    Oooo that looks painful

  33. #1593
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    Quote Originally Posted by PATS4LIFE View Post




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    If those are the FLM spider gears and pinion that's a shame. They look like they are made of high quality hardened steel on their website and those look like the cheap traxxas low alloy ones.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  34. #1594
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickruger View Post
    If those are the FLM spider gears and pinion that's a shame. They look like they are made of high quality hardened steel on their website and those look like the cheap traxxas low alloy ones.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    Tell me about it,Iím disappointed about it,but hope they will replace it under warranty,suppose to covered for warranty if it ever breaks.


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  35. #1595
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    just bought some stronger belts for my belt drive. i stretched the belt i got with the pulleys. if i do the same thing again im going mod 1.5 gears. i got a pair of 225-15mm (wide) 5m belts and a pair of 220-15mm (wide) 5m belts.

  36. #1596
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    Quote Originally Posted by PATS4LIFE View Post
    Tell me about it,I’m disappointed about it,but hope they will replace it under warranty,suppose to covered for warranty if it ever breaks.


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    UPDATE:Fastlane will replace the diffs under warranty and was told my 1 year warranty starts all over again.
    "AVENGED SEVENFOLD "

  37. #1597
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    Added 4s smc racing 9400 lipos, hota d6 plus charger, proline brute body, integy dust cover, and full cleaning. Next up changing oil in shocks and proline badlands

  38. #1598
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    Got some ose 8mm and xt90 connectors. Trying to decide what to use my 8awg wire fits in both xt90's are slightly easier not as much solder to fill lol. But I like the 8mm better just nicer to hold and more current. Main reason for the xt90 is my new lipos have them.

  39. #1599
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    Soldered the 8mm connectors on the max 5. And made adapters for the 8mm to trx connectors just for testing purposes. Didn't drive it just did the steering and hit the gas with no gears on. just for it works purposes.

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  40. #1600
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    Just finished installing morimoto xb led fog lights..


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