Page 1 of 5 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 40 of 190
  1. #1
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    West Chester PA
    Posts
    356

    Big Block 8s X-Maxx Custom Build

    Starting a new thread to go through my custom build. As I go through the build I will update the thread with pictures and steps on how everything was done. If there are any questions don't hesitate to ask. I will continue to update the thread as new aftermarket upgrade parts become available. Below is a list of what I will start the post off with.

    1- Castle XL-X system with 800kv motor
    2- installation of the Kershaw Mounting bracket
    3- Deannodizing the blue aluminum parts. Shocks, stub carriers, wheel nuts
    4- Painting a Custom new clear body (tra7711)
    5- Building custom beadlock rings and mounting them to stock wheels
    6- Building a custom gear cover for the Castle system
    7- continuing to add to thread as new parts become available


  2. #2
    RC Qualifier NBViper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    MA
    Posts
    386
    Welcome to the 8S club!!! Waiting on my Kershaw mount to replace my hacked together solution.
    -=/ X-Maxx - 8S XLX/2028 \=-

  3. #3
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    West Chester PA
    Posts
    356
    Quote Originally Posted by NBViper View Post
    Welcome to the 8S club!!! Waiting on my Kershaw mount to replace my hacked together solution.
    Thanks. Mine should be here on Thursday! Almost a month to the day. Long wait but can't wait to install it them start playing with the programming. I've had the castle system sitting here waiting for the mounts to arrive.

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    West Chester PA
    Posts
    356
    First modification I'm going to go over is the deannodizing the aluminum parts. I did this on the Stub Carriers, wheel nuts and shock bodies. I forgot to take pics of the shock bodies but the same process was done for all pieces. The only difference is when I did the shock bodies I made sure to seal of the inner portion so that the inside of the cylinder remained unchanged. I used an expandable rubber plug for the bottom and the stock shock cap with rubber bladder to seal the top. Total process took approximately 30 minutes to complete the shocks, and 30 minutes for the axles and wheel nuts.



    The stock pieces

    I used grease lighting degreaser, 2 plastic containers, one for degreaser and one for clean cold water, small paint brush, rubber gloves, eye protection, and mask.



    Placed items into degreaser agitated with brush them let sit for 5-minutes


    I continued to agitate the items worth the brush for another 5 minutes



    You can see the liquid turning blue



    The pieces after being flushed with cold water.



    Took a little metal polish and within 5 minutes this is how they turned out



    The completed shocks. Upgraded to 50wt shock oil. Still awaiting the arrival of the green aluminum shock caps.

    Next topic for tomorrow will be the Painting of the body.

  5. #5
    RC Champion rizz0d's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Posts
    1,162
    Quote Originally Posted by Aspengt View Post
    The completed shocks. Upgraded to 50wt shock oil. Still awaiting the arrival of the green aluminum shock caps.
    upgraded to 50wt? lol. just messin with you.
    those shocks look great. will look even better when we can get our hands on the TiN coated shafts.

  6. #6
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Posts
    36
    Can we see pictures of the motor and esc mounted up?

  7. #7
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Posts
    122
    Patience you must have, my young padawan.

    Great thread looking forward to this thanks

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier Fuglio's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    497
    Such a sweet build. Much respect! Everything looks great.

  9. #9
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    West Chester PA
    Posts
    356
    Quote Originally Posted by Yfzrock11 View Post
    Can we see pictures of the motor and esc mounted up?
    The mounts are scheduled to be delivered on Thursday. So I'll post everything Thursday night on them.

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    West Chester PA
    Posts
    356
    Quote Originally Posted by Fuglio View Post
    Such a sweet build. Much respect! Everything looks great.
    Thank you.
    Last edited by Aspengt; 02-03-2016 at 05:13 AM.

  11. #11
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    51
    I run 100wt in mines

  12. #12
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    West Chester PA
    Posts
    356
    The next Customization I am going to walk through will be the painting of the clear body part# TRA7711. Originally I was going to do the Camo scheme with Gunmetal Gray, Lime Green Pearl, White Pearl. I decided last minute to replace the White Pearl with Metallic Black. This is why the black was applied last as I usually lay down the darker color first. Make sure you clean the inside and outside of the body with light dish soap and sponge before you start. I would even recommend using a course sponge to act like a very fine sandpaper to the inside of the body to help with paint adhesion. Be careful though is you plan on leaving any part of the body clear like windows as to not scratch that section. This is just the way that I paint bodies and what works best for me, you may paint yours differently or disagree with any of the steps, there are many ways to paint an body and get the look you want. That is part of what makes this hobby so much fun. If you have any questions please let me know.



    The first step was to determine and draw out the design. With the design being 3 color camo I had to take care to make sure the same color did not touch. Take your time on the design layout this is the time to make any corrections.





    For this paint scheme I used liquid mask. Easily applied with a paint brush. Apply 4 light coats, too think of a coat will take forever to dry, too thin will make it very difficult to remove the mask from the body. Trust me you dont want to make it too thin. 4 thin coats has worked the best for me.



    After the liquid mask has dried you want to cut out your design with an exacto knife. Dont press too hard, just a light cut to get through the mask. Take your time and remove the sections as you go. In this case I only wanted to cut out the sections that are going to recieve the Gunmetal gray color. I did not follow all the lines. if the line was between a green and black section I left that intact so that there was no chance the paint could bleed through to the body in those areas.



    Once everything is cut for the first color, apply the first coat very thin. This will allow for the paint to bond to the body better. Multiple light coats are much better then few heavy coats. Too heavy of coats and you risk the paint chipping off which is the last thing you want to happen after spending so much time desigining and painting your body.





    After you are done applying your first color its time for the next. Cut the next portion of the design out and remove the masking as you go following the same process as you did for the first coat. Having a light to use on the outside of the body to help you see your lines is very useful. Once done apply the second color again using light coats.



    For the final color remove the remainder of the masking and paint again multiple light coats. In this case I wanted a more of a matte type look in the bed and around the windows. In order to achieve that I used the exacto knife and cut the outside protective film and removed those areas. I then applied the standard black to the outside of the body. This was the final step once all the other colors were applied and dry.

    Once completed remove any remaining protective wrap and apply your decals as you wish and attached the mounting brackets.
    Below are the pics of te completed body. Tomorrow I will post about the wiring of the XL-X ESC and the installation of the XL-X system with the Kershaw Mounts.

  13. #13
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    West Chester PA
    Posts
    356
    The completed body mounted to the truck.










  14. #14
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Posts
    122
    Awesome work

  15. #15
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    75
    Very cool and informative.

  16. #16
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Midland, GA
    Posts
    23
    Excellent work, looks fantastic. And great thread, super informative. Thanks for taking the time to share.

  17. #17
    RC Qualifier SkidMan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Quebec,Alma,Lac-St-Jean
    Posts
    298
    Really nice work...thanks for the info!!!
    -Blue X-maxx
    -E-Maxx 60.2mph
    -Spartan 48.2mph

  18. #18
    RC Champion SLW-SVT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Lake Jackson, TX
    Posts
    1,638
    Looks really good! I've been thinking about how nice the HR aluminum parts would look de-anodized. I guess I will see it here first!
    X-Maxx Max6 | EB48.3 | ET48.3 | Axial Grave Digger

  19. #19
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    West Chester PA
    Posts
    356
    Very dissapointing news. I was supposed to recieve my X-maxx mounts from Kershaw Designs today. But when the package showed it only had my 5t dual motor conversion kit and not either of 2 Xmaxx kits I ordered. Called Dan at Kershaw and he is shipping everything out tomorrow as there was some confusion on the order. So I probably wont have my mounts until Monday of next week. So todays post will be just of the soldering portion of the ESC.

    Side note though, Will be using the two VXL-6S systems and installing them into the 5t. Making that 12s capable. See how that goes.

    tomorrow I will try and post the making of the beadlocks going to be making a set of Blue ones for the other X-maxx. Depending on if I have time.

  20. #20
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    West Chester PA
    Posts
    356
    Going to go over my process for soldering the battery connectors to the XL-X esc. Getting ready for the mounts to show up soon. This is just my process, I have decided to us traxxas connectors as that is what I have in the rest of my vehicles so the batteries will be interchangable between vehicles.





    The basics that you will need are Solder, I choose to use Trak Power rosin core silver solder it seems to work the best for me. For this application I also needed additional Castle 8ga wire to allow me to run the batteries in series. Traxxas connectors, Heat shrink, and a soldering iron.





    You will want to Tin the ends of the wire as well as the connectors where you will be connecting the wire to them. This will allow for a quicker application and help avoid heating up the wire/component too much.





    Next solder the components together and heat shink each end. My soldering isnt the best in the world but it hasnt failed me yet.



    The Xl-X uses 8ga wire but the traxxas connectors dont really fit that size wire. So I had to do some trimming of the connectors to allow me to fit in the connectors. Another reason why heat shrink is imprortant. I used body sizzors and an exacto knife to trim out the plastic from the connectors.



    I inserted the metal ends into the connectors and then applied more heat shrink around the entire connector for additional protection.

    Thanks for reading and if you have any questions please let me know.

  21. #21
    RC Qualifier NBViper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    MA
    Posts
    386
    Great idea to get the 8ga wire into the connector!!! I usually take a pair of vice grips and squeeze/compress the soldered end of the wire after it cools until it fits in. Sometimes it works...
    -=/ X-Maxx - 8S XLX/2028 \=-

  22. #22
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    York PA
    Posts
    341
    I took a dremel with a grinding drum and sanded the solders wire Down till it fit in the plug, but that's a much better idea, I just switched to HXT 6mm connectors for this very reason

  23. #23
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    West Chester PA
    Posts
    356
    Quote Originally Posted by NBViper View Post
    Great idea to get the 8ga wire into the connector!!! I usually take a pair of vice grips and squeeze/compress the soldered end of the wire after it cools until it fits in. Sometimes it works...
    Thanks! I would like to switch over to the castle connectors but they are pricey because I would need to switch all my vehicles over, all my batteries, and my charger leads. Wish they sold them in a bulk pack.

  24. #24
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    West Chester PA
    Posts
    356
    Quote Originally Posted by yoshgixxer View Post
    I took a dremel with a grinding drum and sanded the solders wire Down till it fit in the plug, but that's a much better idea, I just switched to HXT 6mm connectors for this very reason
    Let me know how you like the HXT connectors. With the XL-X data logging I'm hoping to see if the traxxas connectors are able to supply the power that the system is trying to pull.

  25. #25
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    York PA
    Posts
    341
    I saw a good bit of voltage ripple in my logs with the Traxxas connectors. No tour of the world bad but your could see it for sure, and I only have 30C packs

  26. #26
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    West Chester PA
    Posts
    356
    Quote Originally Posted by yoshgixxer View Post
    I saw a good bit of voltage ripple in my logs with the Traxxas connectors. No tour of the world bad but your could see it for sure, and I only have 30C packs
    Ok thanks for the heads up. I'm running 2 SPC 6500 65C 4s packs. Guess my next upgrade is going to be on connectors.

  27. #27
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    37
    I've been converting all my 4s batteries to xt150 connectors. They are awesome

  28. #28
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Salado Tx
    Posts
    162
    Man, that's a sweet paint job on the body!

  29. #29
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    West Chester PA
    Posts
    356
    Both of the Kershaw mounts showed up tonight. Received 49t pinion instead of the 47t that I had originally ordered so I guess I'll see how the 49t does in the xmaxx. Going to do the install tomorrow. Will post installation steps of that tomorrow and the making of the beadlocks on Sunday.


  30. #30
    RC Qualifier NBViper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    MA
    Posts
    386
    Looks good, I just posted my install process in my build thread. What size spur are you running?
    -=/ X-Maxx - 8S XLX/2028 \=-

  31. #31
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    West Chester PA
    Posts
    356
    Quote Originally Posted by NBViper View Post
    Looks good, I just posted my install process in my build thread. What size spur are you running?
    Yours is looking good. Can't wait to get mine fully together. I'll be running a 50t spur. I've seen that running the smaller spur gears can cause some installation issue. Going to look into that more, the Allen key trick was a good idea. Wondering if there is any other way.

  32. #32
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    West Chester PA
    Posts
    356
    I am now going to go over the steps I took to install the Castle XL-X system with the Kershaw Designs mounts.



    With using the Castle 2028 motor you have to cut out the center brace. This is just the first rough cut. I cleaned off the remainin sections and tried to make it look like there was never a center brace.



    Next step was to re-installl the center support brace.









    With this kit there has been some issues with being able to use the smaller 50t and 46t spur gears. There were very limited ways to install the motor with the pinion already in place and then adjust the gear mesh. To avoid this issue I carefully measured and and then drilled two small holes within the Pinion gear itself. These holes line up directly with the allen screws that mount the motor and allow me to make adjustments. This allows me to run the 50t spur and even the 46t spur without having any issues in adjusting the gear mesh. I tested all the fitment before installing into the X-Maxx.





    Once I was happy with everything I then completed the mounting of the motor per the included instructions with the Kershaw mount.



    This motor wieghs a lot and I do plan on putting this X-maxx in the air. So to add just a little support I cut the dense foam that had come installed in the X-Maxx's battery trays a little larger then needed I then placed it under the rear secion of the motor. With the foam being dense and with me cutting it larger I had to push it into place. its a very snug fit that should help with suppoting this very large motor.

  33. #33
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    West Chester PA
    Posts
    356
    Installing the remaining components



    After the motor was installed I mounted the fan and began to run the wires to the reciever from the ESC/





    To better place the antenna I drilled a hole in the ESC mounting plate. The hole is the exact size of the antenna tube, but I also threaded the hole so that I was able to thread the antenna tube into the hole for a very secure fit with no additional mounting hardware. I then installed the ESC to the mount and then to the X-Maxx per the instrucations included with the mounts. The only difference is that I did not use the zip tie for the front portion of the mount and I opted to use a screw and a nut and teh included spacer to secure the front of the ESC mount. This is a much more solid way to mount it.



    The XL-X has data logging which will be able to give me a readout of how everything is performing in terms of the ESC and motor. But to be able to due that I need access to the AUX wire. I also didnt want to leave the AUX wire just hanging. The X-maxx has two mounts which im guessing is for the traxxas telemetry to mount located on the support brace near the front of the truck. I installed soft rubber pading, and aluminum cross brace and Proline body nuts to allow me to sucurely and cleanly place the AUX wire in a spot that I can quickly access it. This will make it very easy for me to plug the X-Maxx into my computer to utilize the date logging feature.





    And finally pictures of the completed install. Hope this was informative and can help anyone looking to install a similiar set up. If you have any questions please let me know!

    Tomorrow I will post the steps I took to make the beadlocks.

  34. #34
    RC Qualifier NBViper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    MA
    Posts
    386

    Big Block 8s X-Maxx Custom Build

    Brilliant idea to access the motor screws! If I get annoyed enough with my stubby Allen keys I'll have to do this as well.

    Also, I don't believe the AUX cable can be used to connect the Castle Link. You need to use the RX cable (and disconnect the AUX when you do).

    I'm using two 6" extension cables out of the RX box to quickly disconnect them when needed. I've used two Quick Connect cables from Castle and they both have stopped working. I'll post pics later this evening.
    Last edited by NBViper; 02-06-2016 at 05:09 PM.
    -=/ X-Maxx - 8S XLX/2028 \=-

  35. #35
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    55
    Great idea but wont it unbalance the pinion though?

  36. #36
    RC Qualifier NBViper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    MA
    Posts
    386
    Quote Originally Posted by John McClane View Post
    Great idea but wont it unbalance the pinion though?
    As long as the holes are on exact opposite sides of center, which his are, he'll be fine.
    -=/ X-Maxx - 8S XLX/2028 \=-

  37. #37
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    West Chester PA
    Posts
    356
    Quote Originally Posted by NBViper View Post
    Also, I don't believe the AUX cable can be used to connect the Castle Link. You need to use the RX cable (and disconnect the AUX when you do).

    I'm using two 6" extension cables out of the RX box to quickly disconnect them when needed. I've used two Quick Connect cables from Castle and they both have stopped working. I'll post pics later this evening.
    Good info. I'll need to look into this. Guess I should have read the instructions. Haha.
    Last edited by Aspengt; 02-06-2016 at 05:56 PM.

  38. #38
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    97
    Do you think it's possible to waterproof the xlx with plastidip? Looks like a really cool setup

  39. #39
    RC Qualifier NBViper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    MA
    Posts
    386
    Quote Originally Posted by minim View Post
    Do you think it's possible to waterproof the xlx with plastidip? Looks like a really cool setup
    Possibly, the only actual openings are where the wires come out at either end so it could be possible. Not sure what it would do to heat dissipation or your warranty
    -=/ X-Maxx - 8S XLX/2028 \=-

  40. #40
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    97
    Quote Originally Posted by NBViper View Post
    Possibly, the only actual openings are where the wires come out at either end so it could be possible. Not sure what it would do to heat dissipation or your warranty
    I've just sent castle a email about that The datalogging features in that ESC class is only provided by MGM if you want it waterproof but it cost more than the X-maxx itself

Page 1 of 5 123 ... LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •