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  1. #41
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    VIP- you are correct. After acutally reading the instructions the RX is the required wire for the castle link. The Aux wire also is required to be plugged into the reciever. So I will need to re-run that. It looks like I will need the castle duo set-up. That looks like it will allow me to set up the sytem like I had hoped to the first time. Will be an easy fix, just unfortunatley costs another $15 and my local hobby shop doesnt carry them.

  2. #42
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    Going to go over how I made the beadlock look rings. Obviously the rings that I am building in the section are not the ones that I am running on my truck as these are blue and mine are lime green. These are rings that I am making for someone else but the process is the same.



    First thing you will need is a solid color piece of Nylon Plastic. Very durable material.



    Next you need to make a clear template. I used a piece of clear plastic from a chinese food container. This allowed me to place the clear plastic over the stock wheel and mark all dimensions and locations of all the screw holes.



    Next use the template to trace the designs on the BACK of the piece of plastic you are using for the rings. I found the center point and placed a pin in through the plastic and used a single point on the plastic to create a perfect cirlce for the inside circle and the outside circle. I also marked out the holes for the screws.





    The next step is to rough cut the rings out and drill two opposing screw holes in in ring where you marked for the mounting screws. do not drill all the holes. Just two oposing holes. This will allow you to take two screws and screw all four rings together. Once all the rings are screwed together slowly and carefully drill the remaining 10 screw holes. This will make sure that all the holes in the rings line up. once all the holes are drilled put one screw in each section around the ring to securely hold all four rings together.





    Sand slowly into shape following the lines that you had marked using the templates. I used a ttable top osolating spindal sander. But this can also be done with a dremel. Taking your time is key here. following the lines precisely.



    the next step is to prep the stock wheel by first drilling the holes where the screws will go to mount the ring.



    Once all the holes are drilled carefully cut off the remaining tabs. The plastic will be thin and these can easy be trimmed off with an exacto knife or other razor blade. Be very careful not to cut the tire!

  3. #43
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    Before



    After





    To install start to thread in the screws. Just start the screws done thread all the way in. Put in one screw in each section working your way around the wheel until all the screws are just started



    slowly tighten the screws a little at a time working your way around the wheel. dont screws any screw all the way down first time. only screw each screw down a little each time as you work your way around the wheel until the all the screws are fully installed and the ring is firmly against the wheel. once completed re-install your wheels.

  4. #44
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    Where did you pick up these screws? Thanks for the awesome write up! Anything else planned?

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by wraths4 View Post
    Where did you pick up these screws? Thanks for the awesome write up! Anything else planned?
    I picked the screws up at the local hobby shop. Yes I am going to continue to upgrade the X-Maxx add new stuff comes out.

    What's next...?
    I have green shock caps coming, so I'll go over how I set pre-load on the shocks.
    I have the castle link duo coming tomorrow so I'll go over how I set that up on the truck.
    Horizon sent me a free body, so I'll do another paint overview for a different paint scheme
    There is a possibility that I may be getting to test out some new stronger prototype ring and pinion gears from an aftermarket manufacturer. So I'll go through that, but that's a month out at least.

    I'm hoping that rpm releases a-arms and shock towers soon. And that some aftermarket companies like FLM or HR release high quality aluminum carriers, casters, and spindles. And of course waiting on n proline to release some wheels, tires, and bodies as well.

  6. #46
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    Green Aluminum shock caps came in today. Quick and easy install. I wanted minimum preload so before installing the cap I pushed the poison up half way and then installed the shock cap. This gives me a nice smooth motion with little push back on the part on the piston itself. The green is a very nice pearl green and is a great match to the green body.




  7. #47
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    Looking Good Aspen!
    We are all one race. The human race.

  8. #48
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    Is it Kershaw that's making ring and pinion's? I know I talked to him a few weeks ago and he said he had some stuff in the works but it was going to be a little while yet. Really need a set of these!!

    And those beadlock rings are really sweet! Nice hand crafting!

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by yoshgixxer View Post
    Is it Kershaw that's making ring and pinion's? I know I talked to him a few weeks ago and he said he had some stuff in the works but it was going to be a little while yet. Really need a set of these!!

    And those beadlock rings are really sweet! Nice hand crafting!
    Yes its Kershaw thats making them. When I spoke with dan last week he said he was 4-6 weeks out. I agree that these will be a great upgrade especially for everyone running the true 1/5th set ups.

    I spoke with Proline too and they are well under way with their designs for the X-maxx.

    RPM however is still trying to get their hands on an X-maxx to try and get started. So RPM upgrades are probably a ways away.

    I keep looking for a reputable company that is planning on making aluminum Carries, casters, and spindles. I have a bunch of emails and VM out but have not been able to confirm anything yet.

  10. #50
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    That's awesome news! Glad to hear there other people out there calling around like me pesterin these guys to get some stuff in the works. So what's proline making some Bodys for these trucks or wheels too?

    I agree the hot racing and current aluminum Chinese upgrades are just cheap grade aluminum parts, not hardcore basher parts. We need some of the guys that were building Baja parts to make some parts for this truck!
    Last edited by yoshgixxer; 02-09-2016 at 10:49 PM.

  11. #51
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    I just don't understand how RPM is still trying to get their hands on one?!?!?! As one of the top aftermarket RC brands you'd think they would of made sure they have one to accommodate their loyal customers with upgrades as soon as possible. I mean when this thing was announced this should have been preordered 5x by RPM and other major aftermarket companies. But that's just my thinking.
    We are all one race. The human race.

  12. #52
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    Yea I don't get it either, when you talk to them on the phone they act like they don't have the $750 Laying around to buy a XMAXX to do some R&D and prototype some parts off of, pretty crazy if you ask me that they need people to donate a truck to build parts off of..

  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by yoshgixxer View Post
    Yea I don't get it either, when you talk to them on the phone they act like they don't have the $750 Laying around to buy a XMAXX to do some R&D and prototype some parts off of, pretty crazy if you ask me that they need people to donate a truck to build parts off of..
    Goes to show you a lot about these aftermarket companies. Very shocked to hear that from RPM. You'd think they would be in a race to be the first to release aftermarket support for a new release. ESPECIALLY a Traxxas release. But no, they wait for someone to hand them the truck for testing!?!?!?


    Rant over before this thread gets closed. Sorry if it does.
    We are all one race. The human race.

  14. #54
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    Why make parts for a truck that isn't widely avalible just to please a few fans? Nice clean work Aspen!

  15. #55
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    Great information and love the updates Aspengt.

  16. #56
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    Great looking build! thanks for all the updates very interesting info will be following. Your petty good with that soldering gun very nice clean job. Thanks for all the updates.

  17. #57
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    Not a big fan of seeing wires. Just installed my castle link duo to allow me easy access to plug the link in. But I didn't want to see the wire. Installed a slash receiver box to tuck the wire in and it also acts as a hold down for the esc power wire giving what I think is a really clean look. Unintentional bonus is that it locks the front body mount in when installed





    Last edited by Aspengt; 02-12-2016 at 10:51 AM.

  18. #58
    RC Qualifier NBViper's Avatar
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    Let us know if the Castle Link Duo works for you. I had a few of them die on me, no idea why. Now I just use servo extension cables that I can easily disconnect.
    -=/ X-Maxx - 8S XLX/2028 \=-

  19. #59
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    How much does this motor and esc change cost?

  20. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by NBViper View Post
    Let us know if the Castle Link Duo works for you. I had a few of them die on me, no idea why. Now I just use servo extension cables that I can easily disconnect.
    Will do. I've heard mixed reviews some people love them and others have not had good luck. Hoping it works well for me, but time will tell.

  21. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by cazrack View Post
    How much does this motor and esc change cost?
    I got mine for $305, but they usually run around $400-425

  22. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by cazrack View Post
    How much does this motor and esc change cost?
    By the time its all said and done, about 600.

  23. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by Annihill8or89 View Post
    By the time its all said and done, about 600.
    $600? I didn't pay anywhere near that. I just sold my stock esc and motor for $150, bought the castle set up with coupons on tower for $305, add the kershaw mount with pinion $80. So entire conversion cost me $235. Plus maybe $20 in connectors, solder, shrink wrap, etc... but you can switch out to this for well under $600 even if you bought everything at full price and didn't sell the stock set up.

  24. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aspengt View Post
    $600? I didn't pay anywhere near that. I just sold my stock esc and motor for $150, bought the castle set up with coupons on tower for $305, add the kershaw mount with pinion $80. So entire conversion cost me $235. Plus maybe $20 in connectors, solder, shrink wrap, etc... but you can switch out to this for well under $600 even if you bought everything at full price and didn't sell the stock set up.
    380 for the castle setup on ebay, 80 for the Kershaw kit, plus batteries 2 4s batteries 70 each. Unless your not including batteries. I would include them in the conversation cost.

  25. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by Annihill8or89 View Post
    380 for the castle setup on ebay, 80 for the Kershaw kit, plus batteries 2 4s batteries 70 each. Unless your not including batteries. I would include them in the conversation cost.
    That's why you have to shop around and sell off your current equipment... Or atleast that's how I justify it to my wife.
    -=/ X-Maxx - 8S XLX/2028 \=-

  26. #66
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    So your saying Tower had a $120 coupon off of a $425 item? I'm a club member and have never seen a deal that good. I ordered mine with a $70 off $399+ coupon.

  27. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by G-Rustler View Post
    Goes to show you a lot about these aftermarket companies. Very shocked to hear that from RPM. You'd think they would be in a race to be the first to release aftermarket support for a new release. ESPECIALLY a Traxxas release. But no, they wait for someone to hand them the truck for testing!?!?!?


    Rant over before this thread gets closed. Sorry if it does.
    Yeah I talked to rpm just the other day also and they told me they didn't even have anything in the works yet they were waiting on some feedback to see what parts were breaking

  28. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by Annihill8or89 View Post
    380 for the castle setup on ebay, 80 for the Kershaw kit, plus batteries 2 4s batteries 70 each. Unless your not including batteries. I would include them in the conversation cost.

    I don't include battery cost in a conversion because either way you need batteries.

  29. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigtim1985 View Post
    So your saying Tower had a $120 coupon off of a $425 item? I'm a club member and have never seen a deal that good. I ordered mine with a $70 off $399+ coupon.
    I had a $100 off coupon and $20 e-cash.

  30. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrismm6773 View Post
    Yeah I talked to rpm just the other day also and they told me they didn't even have anything in the works yet they were waiting on some feedback to see what parts were breaking
    Lol they told me today xmaxx arms are in the works

  31. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aspengt View Post
    I don't include battery cost in a conversion because either way you need batteries.
    I would include the battery cost because I don't have another vehicle to run on 8s. But that's just me. Non the less, awesome build and expensive.

  32. #72
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    Starting on the next body.








  33. #73
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    Body #2 done!










  34. #74
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    Nice work you have quite the talent there.
    XMAXX EREVO SAVAGE Digging Ditches

  35. #75
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    Man...I'm jealous. I'm proud of myself when I just paint it one color and don't mess up the window masking.

  36. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aspengt View Post
    Body #2 done!









    man that's sweet!!!

  37. #77
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    Nice job on deannodizing the aluminum parts! I usually do this on my trucks but never tried the liquid form before, always the classic oven cleaner spry. If it's not too much to ask, can you tell me which are the ingredients (or the main one) of that liquid cleaner? I want to see if I can find something similar here to try it. Thanks!
    He Who Dies With the Most Toys Wins.

  38. #78
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    How's the handling with this setup? It seems like it increases the center of gravity quite a bit with the larger motor and ESC mounted so much higher than the stock setup.

  39. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aspengt View Post
    Body #2 done!









    Looks factory clean. Kudos sir, the simplicity and subtle details in your design get a round of applause.

  40. #80
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    So the Kershaw built 8S systems are a smokin' deal!

    I was told the Traxxas connectors should be avoided for this much current as well.


    Outstanding job on those lids. There's some really talented members on this forum. I'm amazed at how well some of these installs are.
    Last edited by rtmike; 02-16-2016 at 03:47 PM.

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