Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 41 to 78 of 78
  1. #41
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    St. Peters, MO
    Posts
    3,333
    Quote Originally Posted by CounterTrey View Post
    That's what I've been wondering. How tightly should they mesh? It almost seemed as if anything the mesh wasn't tight enough, when I reassembled I felt like i was locking the two gears down more, also I'm wondering if I didn't get my slipper clutch fully flush with the body when I cleaned out the rear end a week or so ago after a sand bash. The center drivetrain seems more snug than before. I hear a distinct mechanical whirring noise that wasn't there before. It's not an "off sound, it's a sounds tthat says finely tuned machine working. I can't explain it very well, but it just feels and sounds much more dialed in a "tight" now. Makes sense if anything was loose as it was a brand new truck.
    Use paper method for gear mesh, google videos on how to do it. I take a strip of paper fold over on itself and put in mesh. Push pinion gear tight into spur, hold and tighten motor down. Roll truck to work paper out. Now hold spur still and use other finger to rock pinion gear. There should be a very very slight tic toc in gear mesh. If no tic toc its to tight. If there's a lot of it its to loose.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  2. #42
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Columbus, OH
    Posts
    205
    So I think I've read (about a thousand times) that one of the first things you want to do is upgrade the slipper clutch bearing adapter from the stock plastic to Aluminum. I see why, on truck #2's disassembly tonight I see what's left of the existing one...all of a very tiny sliver of plastic you have to search for. Off to the LHS again tomorrow!

  3. #43
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Columbus, OH
    Posts
    205
    Quote Originally Posted by Briber View Post
    Use paper method for gear mesh, google videos on how to do it. I take a strip of paper fold over on itself and put in mesh. Push pinion gear tight into spur, hold and tighten motor down. Roll truck to work paper out. Now hold spur still and use other finger to rock pinion gear. There should be a very very slight tic toc in gear mesh. If no tic toc its to tight. If there's a lot of it its to loose.
    I'll bet mine is too tight, gotta pull it and check.

  4. #44
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    St. Peters, MO
    Posts
    3,333
    Quote Originally Posted by CounterTrey View Post
    So I think I've read (about a thousand times) that one of the first things you want to do is upgrade the slipper clutch bearing adapter from the stock plastic to Aluminum. I see why, on truck #2's disassembly tonight I see what's left of the existing one...all of a very tiny sliver of plastic you have to search for. Off to the LHS again tomorrow!
    Here was my melt down!
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  5. #45
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Columbus, OH
    Posts
    205
    Yea I was just reading through that thread.

  6. #46
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    St. Peters, MO
    Posts
    3,333
    Quote Originally Posted by CounterTrey View Post
    I'll bet mine is too tight, gotta pull it and check.
    Yea if its to tight it will wear teeth on spur, could strip spur or most importantly cause binding that will overheat motor, wear motor bearing or even fry motor. Lots of reasons why gear mesh is very important. Def check out videos on it...
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  7. #47
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Columbus, OH
    Posts
    205
    So after putting on the new aluminum adapter is there a trick to knowing how much to tighten down the nut when I reassemble?

  8. #48
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Columbus, OH
    Posts
    205
    Oh and I did the red dye job to my son's P4de, I'll post pics later. It turned out VERY dark red using the Crimson dye but it's still pretty cool. We can always dye it black if it doesn't work. The black on my truck turned out fantastic.

  9. #49
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    St. Peters, MO
    Posts
    3,333
    Quote Originally Posted by CounterTrey View Post
    So after putting on the new aluminum adapter is there a trick to knowing how much to tighten down the nut when I reassemble?
    Tighten til spring is fully compressed and back off 1/4 turn.
    Quote Originally Posted by CounterTrey View Post
    Oh and I did the red dye job to my son's P4de, I'll post pics later. It turned out VERY dark red using the Crimson dye but it's still pretty cool. We can always dye it black if it doesn't work. The black on my truck turned out fantastic.
    Sounds cool look forward to seeing the results!
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  10. #50
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Columbus, OH
    Posts
    205
    I'm doing gear mesh now and FWIW Briber this guy says the paper method is flawed and shows why. Worth the watch.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jqQZXpu4ZDU

  11. #51
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Northern NJ
    Posts
    20,527
    Unfortunately, his descriptions of moving the motor and pinion "just a hair" back from the spur and having a "little bit" of gap presupposes a level of expertise a new user may not have the ability to "git [the mesh] no more perfect than that." The "1/10 mm" may not be helpful to some either.
    This isn't to say that I love or even use the paper method, but if you use it and it helps you achieve the correct mesh - as his would probably have done if he had doubled up on the paper - then there's really no reason for his suggestion to universally eschew the method.
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

  12. #52
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    St. Peters, MO
    Posts
    3,333
    Quote Originally Posted by ksb51rl View Post
    Unfortunately, his descriptions of moving the motor and pinion "just a hair" back from the spur and having a "little bit" of gap presupposes a level of expertise a new user may not have the ability to "git [the mesh] no more perfect than that." The "1/10 mm" may not be helpful to some either.
    This isn't to say that I love or even use the paper method, but if you use it and it helps you achieve the correct mesh - as his would probably have done if he had doubled up on the paper - then there's really no reason for his suggestion to universally eschew the method.
    Agreed that's why I do it doubled it's pretty fool proof for a noob like me anyway... The idea is to get as much tooth contact as possible without bottoming or binding. No pinion and spur is perfectly able to mesh exactly, just the little play in bearing adapter and bearing on motor mount will not allow perfection. Or where that shaft goes in to rear diff. All that to say nothing is exact so that's why a very tiny amount of play is critical but to much is detrimental.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  13. #53
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Columbus, OH
    Posts
    205
    OK thanks fellas. Good advice all around.

  14. #54
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Columbus, OH
    Posts
    205
    I don't think there's any question I had my truck in training mode before. I took it out and tried the 2s I had that I thought was junk and it was absolutely flying all over the place. We did a bunch of bashing and jumping at a local park. Over 30 mins of 2s throwing that truck all over the place cartwheels, high jump landings...the works. Not a flinch. Hook up the 3s and within 3 mins I busted a rear drive shaft.

    1. MIP's are being ordered tonight, I'm over busted drive shafts.
    2. Dunno how much 3s I'll be doing with this truck outside of speed type runs. It's just SO much power with my setup that part breakage is inevitable until I do a bunch more upgrades. But since my mode issue is solved 2s was rockin!

    Briber give yourself plenty of room and be ready...3s is insane with this VXL. I'm going to grab a few more 2s batteries and put the 3s aside for only specific types of runs.

    Oh and I fixed the gear mesh, I did indeed have it too tight on 2 trucks. I'm a bit surprised though, only one had a bad bearing adapter, the other 2 still had the plastic one fully intact, so I have 2 spares with bearings now.

  15. #55
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    St. Peters, MO
    Posts
    3,333
    Quote Originally Posted by CounterTrey View Post
    I don't think there's any question I had my truck in training mode before. I took it out and tried the 2s I had that I thought was junk and it was absolutely flying all over the place. We did a bunch of bashing and jumping at a local park. Over 30 mins of 2s throwing that truck all over the place cartwheels, high jump landings...the works. Not a flinch. Hook up the 3s and within 3 mins I busted a rear drive shaft.

    1. MIP's are being ordered tonight, I'm over busted drive shafts.
    2. Dunno how much 3s I'll be doing with this truck outside of speed type runs. It's just SO much power with my setup that part breakage is inevitable until I do a bunch more upgrades. But since my mode issue is solved 2s was rockin!

    Briber give yourself plenty of room and be ready...3s is insane with this VXL. I'm going to grab a few more 2s batteries and put the 3s aside for only specific types of runs.

    Oh and I fixed the gear mesh, I did indeed have it too tight on 2 trucks. I'm a bit surprised though, only one had a bad bearing adapter, the other 2 still had the plastic one fully intact, so I have 2 spares with bearings now.
    A good friend told this after I told him my 3s's were on the way:

    "Uh oh someone is really about too tear up some stuff now lol".

    That's the plan! hehehe

    I'd replace the bearing adapter before melt down occurs.

    I did exact same thing when I got mine(in training mode). I'd bet my life it wasn't, I thought I busted it and was mad. I realized my mistake in front of family and had to eat crow lol.

    Glad to hear you got mesh right. Did you use paper or other way?
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  16. #56
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Columbus, OH
    Posts
    205
    I already replaced adapters on all 3 trucks, had em apart and they all needed adjustment so I just did the conversion. I think I might have my slipper nut too tight on my truck though. I'm gonna take it by my LHS and ask the racer down there to show me the right tension, the guy really knows his stuff.

    yea I watched a bunch of vids on mesh but wound up going the paper route, I just folded it in half to double up and it worked perfectly.

  17. #57
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    St. Peters, MO
    Posts
    3,333
    Quote Originally Posted by CounterTrey View Post
    I already replaced adapters on all 3 trucks, had em apart and they all needed adjustment so I just did the conversion. I think I might have my slipper nut too tight on my truck though. I'm gonna take it by my LHS and ask the racer down there to show me the right tension, the guy really knows his stuff.

    yea I watched a bunch of vids on mesh but wound up going the paper route, I just folded it in half to double up and it worked perfectly.
    Do you have the revo slipper? For that the common answer is fully compressed and back off 1/4 turn, but interested to hear what your lhs says.

    On the stock slipper not sure if it's the same as the revo.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  18. #58
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Columbus, OH
    Posts
    205
    No I'm running stock. It's definitely tighter than it was before, the torque is higher for sure.

  19. #59
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Columbus, OH
    Posts
    205
    I also forgot to mention my moment of confusion followed by amusement when doing the adapter upgrades. The one off my son's brushed truck was melted into the spring. I pulled out the bits actually in the coils of the spring then thought about how to get the remaining unmelted part off without damaging the spring. That was no problem a little soak in some hot water didn't solve. It came right off after that.

    When I went to put on the new aluminum adapter I was confused. Where the little cup on top for the spring to rest in like the old one? So I pull apart my truck which is still intact and have a laugh. There's no cup because that cup is not supposed to be there. My spring had melted down into the plastic adapter so perfectly uniform that when I took it off it looked factory with a little cup on top for the spring. I'll bet I spent 30 mins trying to figure out where the missing part was and why I wasn't seeing it on any of the parts diagrams.

  20. #60
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    St. Peters, MO
    Posts
    3,333
    Quote Originally Posted by CounterTrey View Post
    I also forgot to mention my moment of confusion followed by amusement when doing the adapter upgrades. The one off my son's brushed truck was melted into the spring. I pulled out the bits actually in the coils of the spring then thought about how to get the remaining unmelted part off without damaging the spring. That was no problem a little soak in some hot water didn't solve. It came right off after that.

    When I went to put on the new aluminum adapter I was confused. Where the little cup on top for the spring to rest in like the old one? So I pull apart my truck which is still intact and have a laugh. There's no cup because that cup is not supposed to be there. My spring had melted down into the plastic adapter so perfectly uniform that when I took it off it looked factory with a little cup on top for the spring. I'll bet I spent 30 mins trying to figure out where the missing part was and why I wasn't seeing it on any of the parts diagrams.
    Thats really funny. I have my moments like that too. It happens when your learning something new.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  21. #61
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Columbus, OH
    Posts
    205
    Update:

    Got the new MIP's and will install this afternoon, which is good. I'll have two spares. Not replacing broken ones yet, but give it time, I'm sure I'll find a way to break a front one.

    I also got some good dirt from the LHS about my various issues. With the battery I'm bringing it back in a few days for them to hook up to a cell balancer that will supposedly rebalance all the cells. Then we charge and see if it does it again, if it does they're going to give me a new battery...pretty cool. After going through everything again I did nothing wrong with this battery, it's a 2C charge rate with 5200 mAh so charging at 6A shouldn't have done anything bad.

    On the slipper, I did have it too tight but I've been stressing about adjusting that way too much. It's so easy to snap off the tunnel cover and just adjust with it against a wall. The interesting thing I found out was about the plastic bearing adapter melting. They were pretty adamant that slipper too loose is why that happens. You get too much slippage and the friction goes way up increasing heat dramatically. The heat from the motor shouldn't be doing that. Interesting and the opposite of what I thought. Makes sense though.

    Oh and here's a few pics of the dyed chassis. I didn't bother with individual pics for the black seems pretty common around here. The contrast of the 3 different colors is pretty cool.





    Last edited by CounterTrey; 02-22-2016 at 01:11 PM.

  22. #62
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    St. Peters, MO
    Posts
    3,333
    Quote Originally Posted by CounterTrey View Post
    Update:

    Got the new MIP's and will install this afternoon, which is good. I'll have two spares. Not replacing broken ones yet, but give it time, I'm sure I'll find a way to break a front one.

    I also got some good dirt from the LHS about my various issues. With the battery I'm bringing it back in a few days for them to hook up to a cell balancer that will supposedly rebalance all the cells. Then we charge and see if it does it again, if it does they're going to give me a new battery...pretty cool. After going through everything again I did nothing wrong with this battery, it's a 2C charge rate with 5200 mAh so charging at 6A shouldn't have done anything bad.

    On the slipper, I did have it too tight but I've been stressing about adjusting that way too much. It's so easy to snap off the tunnel cover and just adjust with it against a wall. The interesting thing I found out was about the plastic bearing adapter melting. They were pretty adamant that slipper too loose is why that happens. You get too much slippage and the friction goes way up increasing heat dramatically. The heat from the motor shouldn't be doing that. Interesting and the opposite of what I thought. Makes sense though.

    Oh and here's a few pics of the dyed chassis. I didn't bother with individual pics for the black seems pretty common around here. The contrast of the 3 different colors is pretty cool.





    That colored chassis came out better than I expected. That color isn't my favorite but still looks good. I wonder if a chassis could be bleached then dyed so red would be true red etc. I like the three lined up next to each other. I can't wait to get my new vxl!!!

    On my drive tunnel I removed plastic above the nut so tunnel stays on and is still held by screw but gives me access to nut for adjustment.
    Last edited by Briber; 02-24-2016 at 09:36 AM.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  23. #63
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Columbus, OH
    Posts
    205
    Yea same here on the the Red, it looks good but more difficult to match to and not as Red as I'd like. Either bleaching it or maybe dying it white first then trying red, someday when I feel like upgrading a chassis or something I'll yank that last gray one and try dying it with two different colors and see if that works at all. White would probably just come out a very light gray but that might be enough. The other option is more than one dye cycle, dye it white twice...who knows, dye is cheap with a coupon at Michaels and the process is easy.

    On the tunnel, you aren't concerned about loose debris getting down in there with the hole?

  24. #64
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    St. Peters, MO
    Posts
    3,333
    Quote Originally Posted by CounterTrey View Post
    Yea same here on the the Red, it looks good but more difficult to match to and not as Red as I'd like. Either bleaching it or maybe dying it white first then trying red, someday when I feel like upgrading a chassis or something I'll yank that last gray one and try dying it with two different colors and see if that works at all. White would probably just come out a very light gray but that might be enough. The other option is more than one dye cycle, dye it white twice...who knows, dye is cheap with a coupon at Michaels and the process is easy.

    On the tunnel, you aren't concerned about loose debris getting down in there with the hole?
    I run in every condition except sand or gravel. If I did I may stick a piece of tape or something over it. It's no different there than underneath on the front end where drive shaft attaches to diff. That's open too.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  25. #65
    RC Qualifier czlynx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    461
    How are the brushed pedes holding up? I would like to get my kids into the hobby, but buying two more vxls right now would be tough to get past the wife.

  26. #66
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    St. Peters, MO
    Posts
    3,333
    Quote Originally Posted by czlynx View Post
    How are the brushed pedes holding up? I would like to get my kids into the hobby, but buying two more vxls right now would be tough to get past the wife.
    They are a blast! Keeping them stock is great for starters.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  27. #67
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Columbus, OH
    Posts
    205
    My kids have been a lot less destructive to theirs, they've held up very well. Things start breaking when you start cranking up the power so these brushed motor trucks have been the perfect level for my 9 and 12 year old boys.

  28. #68
    RC Qualifier czlynx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    461
    Thanks both of you, that's really good to know!

  29. #69
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    St. Peters, MO
    Posts
    3,333
    Quote Originally Posted by czlynx View Post
    Thanks both of you, that's really good to know!
    My daughter is 10 and she want more power!
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  30. #70
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Columbus, OH
    Posts
    205
    So the new SPC's came in today and are all charged up. Time for some break in runs and some jumping. Also time for my boys to finally try Lipos out. I'm also putting a new connector on my Optima today, maybe finally get that bad boy back up and running after 20+ years of storage.

  31. #71
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    St. Peters, MO
    Posts
    3,333
    Quote Originally Posted by CounterTrey View Post
    So the new SPC's came in today and are all charged up. Time for some break in runs and some jumping. Also time for my boys to finally try Lipos out. I'm also putting a new connector on my Optima today, maybe finally get that bad boy back up and running after 20+ years of storage.
    Nice, enjoy!
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  32. #72
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    1
    So after reading this post I had to reply. I bought the Stampede 4x4 vxl as an impulse buy. This was my first RC and wanted it to be the best of both worlds, fast and good off road. I bought this back in November and have replaced more parts than I can count. I went against my best judgment and bought a 2S Lipo to speed it up, man that was a mistake. If I would have bought the 3S that everyone told me to buy I don't think I would have a pede left anymore. The body is torn to pieces, I have broke more drive shafts than I care to count. I upgraded my drive shafts to some generic steel ones I bought off ebay 10 mins after driving it on the road it took one tumble then broke one of the rear drive shafts. Once again I parked it and ordered MIP rear axels. Once the axles arrived I installed them and was very happy with the outcome. Once again back to the street and once again another problem. This time the wheel nut on the inside of the wheel stripped out the inside of the wheel, ticked off I moved the stripped out wheel to the front and finished off the battery. The next day back at it, I took to the street with the high speed gear in place and ready to burn up the streets. On my third run I blew out a front drive shaft, which is where I am today. So far I have spent easily over $100 in drive shafts. Before anyone says anything I did back off the clutch to the point it wont wheelie. This truck is fun as **** but man you will spend a ton just keeping it going. I have a ton of parts that would need to be replaced but they are not keeping it from driving so I am not worried about it. My MIP rear drive shafts are holding up for the moment. The tires do fall apart after a while but that's to be expected with bashing and high speeds. Anything over a 2S lipo is overkill unless you want to replace all the plastic parts which would be pretty much everything. This truck is made to run as is with the battery provided. If you are on here looking for advice then listen to what everyone has to say, but that's just my 2 cents worth.

  33. #73
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. GeneralPede01's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Toomsuba, Ms
    Posts
    3,187
    After upgrading the weak points on the p4de it'll hold up too a lot of abuse. I run mine on 4s and rarely break any parts.

  34. #74
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Briber's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    St. Peters, MO
    Posts
    3,333
    It's a labor of love, in the quest for speed or ultimate power these things will happen. I have been through my fair share of parts trust me. I too started back in Nov, I now have 3 pedes and am pushing around 2100 with the purchase price of trucks and 2s,3s lipos and charger, all the parts I've fixed and bodies I've gone through. I'm thinking man I could've had half the credit card paid off by now lol. It's a learning curve too. My new VXL will be my treasure and my current p4de which has seen better days, will be the speed runner, unless I go back to stock for when nephews and friends come over they can play too.... One things for sure.... I have found a new hobby and new friends....
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  35. #75
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Columbus, OH
    Posts
    205
    To me it's pretty simple. If it's plastic and you push it, it will break. So either stay low key and be happy with stock plastic parts or do what MOST of us want to and crank up the intensity with more power. With more power comes the requirement for upgrades. No way around it. I break stuff plenty but it's always the same things so I'm slowly upgrading to the point that things don't break. A little more investment but a LOT more fun from my perspective. As for the stock trucks running the included NiMh battery, my boys still break plenty with those and a 2s lipo in one of those isn't really any faster than the NiMh. Fact is unless you baby these things they will break and no matter how you treat them they will require maintenance and more money spending. It truly is a labor of love, way too much hassle otherwise. Once you figure out some basic do's and don'ts though things improve a ton.

    So we had a good session tonight with all 3 trucks. The new batteries are very nice and for $35 a piece 2 days after I ordered them I am pretty darn happy. SPC will be getting more of my business. I wish more of these manufacturers would bring the leads out of the middle of the battery instead of the side, it would fit in my battery holders a lot nicer. My Horizon Hobby Lipos (Kinexys) are from the middle and it's a huge difference.

    After that I sat down and finished off the rewiring of my original, chain driven Optima that's been mothballed for 20+ years. Man do I suck at soldering, I've always hated it. No talent for it whatsoever but I did manage to solder some leads and put a new connector on the buggy before giving it a test run. Everything seems to work so now it's time for a complete overhaul of the diffs, gearbox and everything else that can be. It's fun to work on but it reminds me real quickly why I was so impressed with today's RTR machines. My Stampede, although in need of some upgrades before it was ready for my abuse, is night and day to what things used to be. This is of course because unskilled, rookie teens had to build and adjust theirs instead of starting with one built professionally but requiring enough attention that you're forced to learn more gradually and with less tuning consequence. I struggled so much with things like alignment when I put this thing together back in the day.

  36. #76
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    251
    I'm just about into the three truck repair business like you. My older boy has a mini summit that just about got the sledge hammer treatment due to broken axles. I think I've finally got that sorted out but the diffs are still made of glass... My younger boy is dying for his own truck. I'll probably build another stampede from the big box of parts taken off my truck.
    Chances make champions!

  37. #77
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Columbus, OH
    Posts
    205
    The brushed Stampede really takes a nice beating and I'm thinking if you went with MIP's and maybe some aluminum shocks it would be close to bullet proof. My 8 year old and 12 year old rarely break stuff on theirs. I on the other hand...

  38. #78
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    251
    I'm keeping one eye open for a rolling chassis. I have all the electronics and a lot of mechanical parts in a box from mine. The only thing electronic that hasn't been changed is the servo. All the old stuff worked when I took it off.
    Chances make champions!

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •