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  1. #1
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    upgrading the stampede

    assuming i want LOTS of power and no overheating on lipo's, what would be a good/the best brushless setup for the stampede 4x4? i have read about 1/8th scale motors on the stampede, but im not sure what i can use, or even what i should be looking for.

    should i run 2s or 3s lipo's? i know the 3s will be more powerful, but produce more heat and also not be compatable with some setups.

    what is the biggest battery that i can run in the stampede? would upgrading the chassis to the slash chassis help me get a bigger lipo? whats the best deal on lipo's and a charger?


    i have been doing some reading on here for the past couple days, but i just cant seem to put it all together as to which motor with what battery works.


    also, what upgrades should i get to handle the extra power? i figure driveshafts are a must, but again, im not sure what will fit. shocks (not sure what ones to get), swaybars, bearings, anything else?

    sorry about all the questions, i just got my taxes in and want to get the most out of my stampede 4x4.


    EDIT: keep in mind, I haven't actually received my brushed stampede yet, lol. I thought it would be better to get the less expensive model, since I planned on upgrading it anyways, why not save the $150 for a motor? I don't plan on spending x-maxx money on this all at once, but does anyone think its better to start with the vxl? i'll be upgrading the turnbuckles and chassis parts anyways, so I didn't see the need to get the vxl right off the bat.

    also, for the gearing, say I wanted to run 70+ mph occasionally with the vxl differential gearing, what motor would run cool while being able to pull the gearing required? I plan on running it on a lake for some speed runs.
    Last edited by Trevinator90; 02-10-2016 at 07:59 AM.

  2. #2
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    Best thing to do in my opinion is scroll down the page a ways and look for GeneralPede's "2650" thread and also his "My New Stampede" thread. Will sum everything up for you and will result in what I would call the best setup for temp control, adjustable speed and durability. Once again, my opinion, everybody has their own preferences but his results are impressive.

  3. #3
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    Honestly there are no definitive answers as to the best of this or that. It's a lot to do with preference, driving style and driving environment.
    I'd recommend calling Castle Creations with your questions. I'm running a Mamba Monster X with 2,650kv Castle motor. This combo runs great on 3s and magnificent on 4s Lipo, up to 6s. My temps are based a lot on gearing and tires as well as the battery. Every upgrade adding torque and speed will significantly increase the number of weak points on the truck you've got. Bearings, mounts, wheel parts, cvds, steering, etc. They will all fail faster with power. My entire truck has been continually upgraded and I love the fact that it's insane and highly entertaining.

    I recommend Castle because they seem taylor made to fit with Traxxas. Their customer service is great and the products I bought have given me no issues and performed as promised.

    Things You'll Need For Sure

    - aluminum bearing adapter
    - cvds, I run MIP X-duty
    - battery extension kit to run 3s or 4s, I've cut tiny slots in chassis and use two velcro straps.
    - aluminum castor blocks
    - aluminum stub axles, axle carriers
    - rpm a arms all around
    - rpm shock towers
    - upgraded shocks. I've got aluminum, threaded in front and Losi 8ight on rear.
    - aluminum hex adapters or even 17mm hex adapter on wheels. You'll have issues with 12mm eventually with enough power.
    - batteries have been hit and miss for me. I run a few Venom, have had problems with them but they replace them super easy with no returning or waiting. Familiarize yourself with the battery compartment measurements and use that you buy your battery.

    Brushless you'll want at least 25c , higher discharge means better access to your power throughout the battery, basically it's better than one with lower discharge. Bigger the mah, milli amp hours, longer the life. I like 5000mah 50c 2s or 7500mah 25c 3s and 5000mah 50c 4s.

    I bought a Tenergy charger that works great. It is a $50 smart, balance charger capable up to 6s. Works awesome.

    Hope this helps a little. Not sure about the Slash Chassis, except then you would be upgrading your Slash and the P4de in it would suffer an identity crisis. Lol

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimdog's Avatar
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    I recommend a mamba monster 2 and 2650kv motor. Then get a battery expansion kit and run a 3s. I run this setup. Its complete overkill and tons of fun. On top of the already recommended upgrades I recommend new diff gears since the vxl uses a higher gear ratio and bigger shocks to deal with the extra weight. Also get the vxl tie rods.
    This will TOTALLY work, saw a guy on YouTube do it

  5. #5
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    Yes on getting front and rear differential upgrade. Get the XO-1 diffs. They go right in. Also, unless you want to upgrade the slipper clutch, keep it tightened down all the way and use throttle control to protect the truck instead of a slipping slipper clutch. With insane revs your slipper will fry quickly.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by matt77tree View Post
    Honestly there are no definitive answers as to the best of this or that. It's a lot to do with preference, driving style and driving environment.
    I'd recommend calling Castle Creations with your questions. I'm running a Mamba Monster X with 2,650kv Castle motor. This combo runs great on 3s and magnificent on 4s Lipo, up to 6s. My temps are based a lot on gearing and tires as well as the battery. Every upgrade adding torque and speed will significantly increase the number of weak points on the truck you've got. Bearings, mounts, wheel parts, cvds, steering, etc. They will all fail faster with power. My entire truck has been continually upgraded and I love the fact that it's insane and highly entertaining.

    I recommend Castle because they seem taylor made to fit with Traxxas. Their customer service is great and the products I bought have given me no issues and performed as promised.

    Things You'll Need For Sure

    - aluminum bearing adapter
    - cvds, I run MIP X-duty
    - battery extension kit to run 3s or 4s, I've cut tiny slots in chassis and use two velcro straps.
    - aluminum castor blocks
    - aluminum stub axles, axle carriers
    - rpm a arms all around
    - rpm shock towers
    - upgraded shocks. I've got aluminum, threaded in front and Losi 8ight on rear.
    - aluminum hex adapters or even 17mm hex adapter on wheels. You'll have issues with 12mm eventually with enough power.
    - batteries have been hit and miss for me. I run a few Venom, have had problems with them but they replace them super easy with no returning or waiting. Familiarize yourself with the battery compartment measurements and use that you buy your battery.

    Brushless you'll want at least 25c , higher discharge means better access to your power throughout the battery, basically it's better than one with lower discharge. Bigger the mah, milli amp hours, longer the life. I like 5000mah 50c 2s or 7500mah 25c 3s and 5000mah 50c 4s.

    I bought a Tenergy charger that works great. It is a $50 smart, balance charger capable up to 6s. Works awesome.

    Hope this helps a little. Not sure about the Slash Chassis, except then you would be upgrading your Slash and the P4de in it would suffer an identity crisis. Lol
    I'll just share some of my experiences that contrast a bit from this list.

    You don't need aluminum castor blocks, stub axles or bearing carriers. You don't need RPM arms, shock towers or upgraded shocks. Hex size is questionable too. It depends on driving style a lot.

    To meet your goals you will need big power. 1/8 scale kit of your choosing (there are other manufacturers besides castle) and you will likely need upgraded driveshafts.

    I ran 3s relentlessly on my stock VXL stuff all summer and the driveshafts were the biggest stumbling block. My MIP Xduties have been great so far.

    I took the "fix it as it breaks" approach. A lot of what people said I needed were really wants.

    That being said, I'm on a slash chassis with most of the items on that list now. I'm not saying they're not worthwhile. I'm simply stating that they are not necessarily needed right off the bat.

    PS:

    I'm still on stock diffs and I run 3s and 4s all the time with my sidewinder 1/8 2200 combo.
    Chances make champions!

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. GeneralPede01's Avatar
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    Like mentioned above if you want a 1/8 system and going with castle then the 2650 is a excellent choice. It's a blast on 3s and on 4s has more power than you'll ever need. It is 100mph capable if you want it too be. Their are other brands but I have no experience with them, if your going with castle id say pull the trigger on a 2650kv combo.

  8. #8
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    would this be a good setup to get me started with for batteries and a charger?

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Traxxas-Batt...0AAOSwX~dWjC0w

    assuming I can get this setup for $189?

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. GeneralPede01's Avatar
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    Those batteries will not fit the stampede, their for a slash/revo/ x-maxx. If you want good quality batteries for a decent price check out smc or spc.

  10. #10
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    ok, so it looks like i'll have to get the batteries and charger separate. not a big deal, but it appears that I will need to get a male traxxas connector for the new MM2 esc to use the traxxas plug style batteries.

    also, the tenergy charger doesn't look like it has a traxxas style plug.

    I saw one video showing that the chassis of the stampede needed to be ground down to fit the 2650kv castle in the truck, but it didn't look like it would allow the motor to go all the way down for smaller pinion gears, but im not sure. what all needs to be done to actually fit the motor in the truck?

  11. #11
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    I think I will go with this battery when I upgrade to the brushless setup.

    http://spcracingbatteries.com/index....product_id=104

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. GeneralPede01's Avatar
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    Here's a pic of my chassis, you have too cut the vxl mounting points off and some of your driveshaft tunnel.
    I run 17/54 gearing if you take driveshaft cover off you can go lower.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Magstang1 View Post
    I'll just share some of my experiences that contrast a bit from this list.

    You don't need aluminum castor blocks, stub axles or bearing carriers. You don't need RPM arms, shock towers or upgraded shocks. Hex size is questionable too. It depends on driving style a lot.

    To meet your goals you will need big power. 1/8 scale kit of your choosing (there are other manufacturers besides castle) and you will likely need upgraded driveshafts.

    I ran 3s relentlessly on my stock VXL stuff all summer and the driveshafts were the biggest stumbling block. My MIP Xduties have been great so far.

    I took the "fix it as it breaks" approach. A lot of what people said I needed were really wants.

    That being said, I'm on a slash chassis with most of the items on that list now. I'm not saying they're not worthwhile. I'm simply stating that they are not necessarily needed right off the bat.

    PS:

    I'm still on stock diffs and I run 3s and 4s all the time with my sidewinder 1/8 2200 combo.
    Well said my friend well said
    Honestly rpm arms are worthless with an 1/8 scale setup IMO. They start to sag after awhile. I probably have enough rpm arms in my parts bin to build 4 trucks. All I use now is stock arms after I boil them.
    When I started out I fell for the "needed upgrades" for high power system. When I put high power setups in my sons trucks I left stock diffs in them and stock carriers on one. The other came with aluminum.

  14. #14
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    so, I just ordered a TON of parts for the stampede. pictures will be posted when they arrive and I get them laid out on the bench and after they are installed.

  15. #15
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    You can buy adapter plugs for anything you've got that doesn't match up. I have a Horizon Hobby Dynamite dual charger and it comes with several different adapters along with balance boards. I bought an extra Traxxas plug for 6 bucks so I can dual charge two traxxas batteries simultaneously but it will charge any battery with up to 6.0 amps for max current.

    http://www.rcsuperstore.com/Dynamite...shoppingengine

  16. #16
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    this is going to be by FAR the fastest rc I have ever owned! I ordered the Mamba Monster 2 ESC with the 2650kv motor combo, along with two SPC soft pack 11.2V 3S 8200mah batteries, and I don't even have the truck at my house yet! LOL, the actual truck will be here tomorrow.

    I have no intentions of running them in series though, since I don't want to hurt the ESC or motor.

    i also ordered a 19 and a 22 tooth pinion for the 5mm shaft on the 2650 since i will be running the brushed gearing for a while.(im not sure if i should be gearing lower than this?)

    should i plan on upgrading my drive shafts immediately to run the 2650? right now, it will be getting used in snow, so i don't think it will be too stressful on the shafts.

    this is the charger i ordered
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/401059349972...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

    i also ordered the dual charging adapter for it so i can charge both batteries at the same time.

  17. #17
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    I would plan on driveshafts.

    Every time your tires start spinning in the snow and dig down to the ground you put a huge shock load on the driveshafts. Driving in snow more than an inch or two is all about wheel speed and momentum. I kill batteries faster in snow than anywhere else. You just can't be easy on the truck if you want to go anywhere.

    I have the sidewinder 8 2200 combo. I started on 18/54 for summer bashing and bumped to 20/54. When I wanted to start doing speed runs primarily in the street I bumped to 22/54 and 22/50. I just bought a 25 pinion, that will be next.

    I would say 20/54 was plenty on 3s for bashing.

    You won't hurt your motor or esc if you run those batteries in series. You are good for up to 6s with a mamba monster. Just watch the heat.
    Chances make champions!

  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jimdog's Avatar
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    The 2650 and 6s don't go together. It's a great motor on 3s though.
    This will TOTALLY work, saw a guy on YouTube do it

  19. #19
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    The 2650 and 6s don't go together. It's a great motor on 3s though.
    Agree. It can run it but not recommended for full time bashing. On 6s that is

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by matt77tree View Post
    Also, unless you want to upgrade the slipper clutch, keep it tightened down all the way and use throttle control to protect the truck instead of a slipping slipper clutch. With insane revs your slipper will fry quickly.
    Are you talking about the revo clutch upgrade? Does tightening the slipper apply to the revo slipper if I go with 2650kv motor?

    Quote Originally Posted by GeneralPede01 View Post
    Here's a pic of my chassis, you have too cut the vxl mounting points off and some of your driveshaft tunnel.
    I run 17/54 gearing if you take driveshaft cover off you can go lower.
    Why does the tunnel need to be cut, isn't that on back end of motor can, whats on back end that needs that clearance? If you shave off everything does that get rid any mounting holes for screws? Do you make new holes for ESC mounting?

    Also do you have your slipper tightened all the way as suggested?
    Last edited by Briber; 02-11-2016 at 10:42 PM.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  21. #21
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    I got the revo yes, a two part combo. Parts #5351 & 5352x

  22. #22
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    so tonight my stampede came in! I have been running it a bit with the two batteries that came with it, and its decently peppy for being all stock. but it does seem to have a bit of understeer in the snow, so im thinking I need some heavier weight oil in the rear diff to get some oversteer.

    I also tried the 13t pinion that I got today. in the snow, it throws much better rooster tails, but it doesn't have enough low end torque on high grip surfaces.

    and just to tease me, the mamba monster 2 combo is already here! im still waiting on the batteries, the battery strap extender, and the traxxas plug that I need to solder onto the new ESC. next week I should have all the pieces and then be able to get everything installed.

    i didn't get any pictures of the truck while it was all fresh and new, but i promise, pictures will be coming soon.

  23. #23
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    I got some pictures of my new stampede on my workbench in my room, along with a few of the mods I have done so far. I also bought a tackle box to store parts and tools.


    the work bench with the truck and my tools. you can also see the tire chains I made for it.


    its a little dirty from being run out in the snow a few times.


    the new mamba monster 2 ESC and 2650kv motor, waiting to be installed


    another view of the workbench


    top down view with the body off, you can see the new vxl camber links and the clear gear cover


    a better view of the tire chains.

    I ran out of chain in one package, so I had to go out and buy a second. I just haven't made them up for the front tires yet.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trevinator90 View Post
    The front tires are on backwards, is that on purpose? Is there a benefit to that? Lhs seemed to frown on that when I accidentally did that when I ran my truck up there to have them check it out onetime. Kinda gave me the impression that's bad to do on them.
    Quote Originally Posted by Dcuda69 View Post
    5352R will get you the aluminum pads that are much tougher. I run it in my Slash with a 2700kv on 3s and 4s.....works great!
    I run alum pads too, agreed.
    Last edited by Briber; 02-14-2016 at 09:54 PM.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  25. #25
    RC Champion Dcuda69's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by matt77tree View Post
    I got the revo yes, a two part combo. Parts #5351 & 5352x
    5352R will get you the aluminum pads that are much tougher. I run it in my Slash with a 2700kv on 3s and 4s.....works great!
    Slash 4x4 Ult 2150kv
    Rustler vxl
    Ford GT vxl

  26. #26
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    the front tires are on like that because im running it in the snow, it helps keep it up on top of the snow a bit better instead of just digging holes


    and for anyone who wants to know what I used for the tire chains, I used #16 x 15ft jack chain from lowes. it will require two boxes to do all 4 tires, so about $5. the number of links I used was 21 around the tire, and 7 across. I spaced the cross chains every two links and wound up with one set right next another.

    they work AWESOME! where I was getting stuck before, is now no problem with the chains on, and that's with just rear chains. I cant wait to try it with all 4 on there!

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trevinator90 View Post
    the front tires are on like that because im running it in the snow, it helps keep it up on top of the snow a bit better instead of just digging holes


    and for anyone who wants to know what I used for the tire chains, I used #16 x 15ft jack chain from lowes. it will require two boxes to do all 4 tires, so about $5. the number of links I used was 21 around the tire, and 7 across. I spaced the cross chains every two links and wound up with one set right next another.

    they work AWESOME! where I was getting stuck before, is now no problem with the chains on, and that's with just rear chains. I cant wait to try it with all 4 on there!
    I can conferm that tire chains work awesome. I did then on my 2.8 trenchers and for 2 tires it was 10 feet of chain. But the chains do not work good on pavment and will ware out
    RC. an addiction I'm proud of

  28. #28
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    Ditch the chains and get Sandpaws. Way better in the snow, IMO. Once you get to grass the chains may be a plus but I was snapping chains like crazy running 3S with a Castle 3400KV motor. Personally I upgraded to Leopard 2700KV motor and SC8 ESC vs the Castle stuff. Little cheaper and runs great. Alas too late now, you got a setup and it'll be awesome just the same.

    I Ran MIP and also Tenko. Prefer Tenko by far especially the 17mm adapter. I think the XO-1 Driveshafts are very similar. Can't go wrong with any of them but once you start adding power and get traction say goodbye to the stock driveshafts.

    Quote Originally Posted by Magstang1 View Post
    I'll just share some of my experiences that contrast a bit from this list.

    You don't need aluminum castor blocks, stub axles or bearing carriers. You don't need RPM arms, shock towers or upgraded shocks. Hex size is questionable too. It depends on driving style a lot.

    To meet your goals you will need big power. 1/8 scale kit of your choosing (there are other manufacturers besides castle) and you will likely need upgraded driveshafts.

    I ran 3s relentlessly on my stock VXL stuff all summer and the driveshafts were the biggest stumbling block. My MIP Xduties have been great so far.

    That being said, I'm on a slash chassis with most of the items on that list now. I'm not saying they're not worthwhile. I'm simply stating that they are not necessarily needed right off the bat.

    PS:

    I'm still on stock diffs and I run 3s and 4s all the time with my sidewinder 1/8 2200 combo.
    An this dude is spot on. I didn't even do some of the upgrades he mentioned (Casters, A Arms) and I too have been fine. I didn't do the motor mount or larger bearing either and no issues there either. You got what you need besides the driveshafts. After that fix it when it breaks . No go beat on it and break some stuff .

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by IPT View Post
    I upgraded to Leopard 2700KV motor and SC8 ESC... Little cheaper and runs great.
    Is that 6s capable? 1/10 scale? ESC programmable?
    Quote Originally Posted by IPT View Post
    An this dude is spot on. I didn't even do some of the upgrades he mentioned (Casters, A Arms) and I too have been fine. I didn't do the motor mount or larger bearing either and no issues there either. You got what you need besides the driveshafts. After that fix it when it breaks . Now go beat on it and break some stuff .
    Agreed!!!!!
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Briber View Post
    Is that 6s capable? 1/10 scale? ESC programmable?
    Max 4S Lipo. Though at less then $60 and waterproof it's a great deal. I'm running two of them in seperate rigs. Have Mamba in another but that was bought before I knew of the SC8. I run both on 3S and they've been great. Ses, programable. There was thread here about it https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...ing-WP-SC8-ESC.

  31. #31
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    does anyone know where to get the older style mip axles with the hex pin? I don't really want to get the ones with the set screw for the wheel hex. I contacted a seller on ebay because his show the style im looking for, but I want to make sure they are the correct ones before I spend the money on them.

    these are the style im talking about



    I have heard of the newer keyed style having the set screws back out a lot, so I want to stay away from them if I can.

  32. #32
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. GeneralPede01's Avatar
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    I run the new styles with no problems. Just have too loctite the screws and your good to go.

  33. #33
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    The old style with the pin that goes through the hole for the hex was considered weaker because the stub axle had the hole in it.

    Just get the new ones and use loctite. No problems.
    Chances make champions!

  34. #34
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    i'll have to order a set of mip's soon.

    anyways, some parts came in today. lol



    i'll get some pictures once they are all opened up.

  35. #35
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    parts galore!



    now for the close ups


    traxxas connector, motor plate and motor mount


    HR swaybar kit, pede and slash aluminum center shafts, and HR 22t and 19t pinions for 5mm shaft


    slash chassis with accessories, slash battery expansion kit, and the swaybars again


    2 - SPC 3s 8200mAh batteries


    I wanted to be able to have a choice between a short and long chassis if I felt the power was too much for the shorter pede chassis, so I bought a slash chassis.

    now, to get that castle motor in the stampede!

  36. #36
    RC Champion Dcuda69's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Magstang1 View Post
    The old style with the pin that goes through the hole for the hex was considered weaker because the stub axle had the hole in it.

    Just get the new ones and use loctite. No problems.
    ^^^ This. Search the forums, you'll find many pics of stub axles from multiple vendors that have broke at the pin hole. MIP eliminated that possibility. A touch of blue loctite and a good hex driver(MIP again) and you won't have problems. I've had them on my Slash for over 6 months...never had one come loose.
    Slash 4x4 Ult 2150kv
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    Ford GT vxl

  37. #37
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    I just ordered the mip axles for the pede, but since the total was under $100, I had to get a few more things to get the 6 months interest free deal on paypal. so I also ordered the steel front drive hub (forgot to get that when I ordered the aluminum center shaft), the front light bar and some blue body clip retainers. omg, the spending stops NOW! LOL


    at least for a little while.

  38. #38
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    turns out I didn't have to get softer springs like I thought, I just had to add some weight to it! lol

    with the new motor, esc and bigger battery in the truck, im going to have to add spacers to the rear shocks now.

    the site I use to upload images to is currently down, so pictures will be up........later today. lol

    the esc mounting is just temporarily on the battery holder, I ordered the traxxas esc mount for the MM2 esc tonight.

  39. #39
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    as promised, a picture of the truck so far.


  40. #40
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    Sep 2014
    Posts
    8
    You'll need to upgrade those shock caps to the aluminium. Those plastic ones will pop off, especially with the extra weight.
    Last edited by Charlie_ds; 02-17-2016 at 08:26 AM.

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