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  1. #1
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    Stampede 4x4 --> LCG Truggy

    I've started a little re-work/re-juvination project for my stampede 4x4 that I thought I'd share and see if any of you might have any suggestions on things I should consider.

    So to start with here's what I've got:

    Stampede 4x4 VXL w/
    Castle MMP ESC
    Castle 1410 3800KV
    Aluminum shock caps
    Traxxas 12mm aluminum front hexes
    Tekno rear shafts
    Tekno 12mm aluminum rear hexes
    2S and 3S SPC batteries
    Cut down the body mounts as much as I could to lower the tub (but it's still too tall looking for my taste)

    Its been a fun little RC; I bought it about 3-4 years ago as my first "modern" RC. I wanted to try out something with a brushless motor and LiPo's. The main reason I picked the Stampede was because it's a great design with a huge aftermarket following and the readily available parts. Since all the rest of my RC's date back to the early and mid 1980's, I can't tell you how great it is to be able to get parts for something off the shelf! (If you're curious I can post some pics - I have a few clods, a gold chassis 6 gear transmission RC10 and a hopped up black chassis RC10's, and an AYK 566B Super Trail).

    I run this RC in a mix of conditions. No racing, no tracks. I sometimes gear it up for speed runs on the street; other times I run it on local trails and grass/dirt in the nearby lots and storm water detention field/area by my house. Most of the time it probably spends 1/4 time on the street and 3/4 time in taller grass and dirt (all during the same run).

    Anyway the point of this little update is to try to improve the stability, traction and handling, make it less of a wheelie monster and also just to do something different. I like tinkering with things.

    Here's what I've done so far:
    Traxxas LCG chassis (which I may remove and dye black)
    Rebuilt all the shocks with 40W oil and single hole pistons
    Rebuilt diffs with 60,000W front and rear

    This is nothing new, but here's what it looks like now:





    So here's where I need a little help:

    I want to add a truggy or some type of low profile body to this. I think I'd prefer a truggy to a buggy (backslash) style. The best looking truggy tub I've seen is the discontinued proline "SHIFT" body - but I can not find one for sale anywhere.



    (Slash truggy)


    Since I can't find one of those, I'm leaning towards a pro-line Enforcer.



    Thing is, I'm still not sure if it will be too big or not. I asked the guy at the local Hobbytown to order one in so I can look at it, hope to see that here this week or ext... any other suggestions?

    Next big question is TIRES. What I'd like is something aggressive with better traction everywhere (in particular on grass, dirt and pavement), something a little taller than the stock 2.8 Talons, and set out wider (wider track), to further improve stability.

    I've been looking at a ton of options and sort of narrowed it down to the following. Thoughts and suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!

    1. 2.8 Trencher's on stock wheels (~$32)
    2. 2.8 Trencher's on Proline 17mm hex 2.8's with Hot Racing 12 to 17mm 6mm or 10mm offset adapters (~$77)
    3. 3.8 Badlands on 3.8" proline rims, Hot Racing 12 to 17mm 6mm offset adapters ( (~$107)

    So, here's what I'm thinking:

    Option 1: It's cheap and it will be a big improvement. And it's cheap!
    Option 2: It will improve the traction and improve stability. It's not too expensive and I'll still have my mounted Talons for uh... whatever. It would work out to around 12-20mm wider track depending on which adapter I go with. (I lean towards the 10mm).

    Option 3: Obviously the most expensive, but also the one I'm most interested in trying. I have a bunch of questions. First of all I know this is a big 3.8 tire and I'm putting it on my little stampede. I've searched this combo up and down and reached the end of the internet... and just haven't found much. I can say it is much smaller than the typical 3.8 monster tire. These are listed at 5.85" tall/2.72" wide, which is about an inch taller than the stock tires and slightly narrower.

    (from google search, 3.8 Badlands, Mashers, Rock Rage, Trencher X)



    On the stock Pro-line rims the track width will be considerably wider than the other options. As best I can tell, taking measurements of my stock summit rims and what proline advertises of their 3.8" wheels, they have approximately .37" negative offset compared to approximately .16" positive offset (in other words, they will be ~1/2" wider per side, measured to the center of the wheel). In addition to that, the HR 17mm adapters add about 6mm (about 1/4") - meaning that center to center the track width will be about 11.4" vs 9.9" (stock), and the overall width about 14.2" vs 12.7"(stock).

    I looked at a few other options... I could run a "stock" offset traxxas 3.8 (or something similar), which will narrow all of those numbers by 1"; in this case I'd probably opt for the 10mm offset adapters, which results in a track width of 10.7 and overall width of 13.5"

    I have concerns about all of these 3.8" tire options:
    -All of them are going to have a lot worse scrub radius/steering geometry than stock. The wider I go, the worse it is - but will I notice it? They will also be harder on bearings, but is it a problem?
    -Even though these are a smaller 3.8" tire, they're still big. Too big? Gearing shouldn't be a problem, but I am a little concerned about added stress on the driveline, diffs and axles in particular.
    -And a concern about the badlands tire in general - will they last with some pavement use? Seems like 'no'...?

    An option to reduce the tire scrub radius, but keep the track width would be to use a Proline Protrac kit with 0 offset 17mm adapters on say XO-1 or Tmaxx 6mm axles, but it just adds so much cost! Or run mixed wheels from to rear, but there's still that extra $40 in parts for the protrac on the front. Protrac in the rear is a little complicated because Tekno no longer makes the longer driveshafts for it. (So this means that I could attempt to modify the half shafts or switch to Tmaxx or XO-1 or MIP rears at even more cost).

    Anyway, tons of options here, but what's my best path forward?

  2. #2
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    That's a lot to digest I will give my input after a little thought. Until then here's a tuning guide you might be interested in and can use once you get up and running and have base to start tweaking on.
    https://traxxas.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6167328
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  3. #3
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    Sounds like you might be looking for an RC8 bulldog body and badlands tires.

    It's not completely trimmed but this is my RC8 bulldog on a slash high cog chassis.

    Last edited by Magstang1; 02-21-2016 at 08:08 PM.
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  4. #4
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    I don't see why the body would be too big, you could just trim the rear wheel wells and length a bit to fit.

    As for tires, I think your drive-line and motor are going to suffer going to a larger tire that is heavier and has an increased outer diameter.

  5. #5
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    Keep in mind Castle recommends 2s for our ( I have the same) combo, for our application. I'm in the same situation as I have 3s coming myself. Keep a close eye on temps. I am only using the 3s for a short time with that because I'm going to lower kv combo to better handle higher power batts.

    For tires if you want super grip, lower speeds, bashing tire I'd go with Duratrax lockups or 6pack mt. They balloon like crazy over 35mph but I can't see a tire giving you better grip than these. I only have experience with a few different tire types so hopefully others will add to this.
    Last edited by Briber; 02-22-2016 at 08:06 AM.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Briber View Post
    That's a lot to digest I will give my input after a little thought. Until then here's a tuning guide you might be interested in and can use once you get up and running and have base to start tweaking on.
    https://traxxas.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6167328
    Thanks--I read through that guide and there's a few adjustments I plan to try.

    I apologize for doing such a "mega" first post, I'd like to break it up into a few posts, but I don't see any way to edit it.

    One thing in particular I want to mention-- the first setup I list at the beginning (with the castle motor and 3s)---I've been running it that way for 3-4 years now. Pretty much all of those changes occurred over the course of running my first 3s pack!

    During my first run on 3s, all stock, I ran it about five minutes (on grass with the stock 13? T pinion and then my armeture flew apart). The motor got very, very hot. I replaced just the motor with the castle 1410 3800kv. Then I learned that my old traxxas ESC can only run a 4pole motor to 25,000 rpm. So I picked up the MMP.

    About two weeks later I topped off the battery and ran it about five minutes and broke a rear shaft yoke. Upgraded to the teknos.

    A week later I topped off the battery again and ran it a few more minutes and blew off a shock cap. Upgraded to aluminum. Ran it a few more minutes and spun a rear drive hex! Upgraded to aluminum. And ever since other than breaking wheelie bars and blowing tires off the rims it's been pretty reliable!

    I read the castle guidelines, got a little worried about this motor on 3s and started with a 9 tooth pinion. I've been slowly stepping up the pinion size; Lately I've been running a 14 tooth, which does around 45mph on the straights. As Briber mentioned Castle does suggest a max of 2s for this application. I really need to take actual measurements but it seems just "warm" to the touch. I did notice a big difference when I installed the motor fan.

    One very odd behavior is that until about a week ago I could not run a 2s battery with this combo. No matter the setting, unless I turn off all of the low voltage protection it immediately goes into some kind of limp / 50% power mode on 2s. 3s is fine. Strangely I ran it on 2s a few days ago and it worked just fine. I can't explain it.. It's still set on auto lipo and 3.5v cutoff, same as it was 3 years ago.

  7. #7
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    Have you gone through and reset the different modes to what you want? It wasn't until my latest rebuild that I discovered the truck was in training mode. I THOUGHT it was a rocket in 3s until I got it out of training mode and realized that it was nowhere close to max power.

  8. #8
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    I have a temp gun so I will be able to post actual temps when I get my batts either tomorrow or wed. I run 2s on that combo w/12/54 gearing and it's really quick. I love doing 20 or so and pulling wot in to a wheelie and riding that sucker down a house or two. I'm stoked about the 3s results.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Magstang1 View Post
    Sounds like you might be looking for an RC8 bulldog body and badlands tires.
    That body looks pretty good. I do like how low profile it is and how it hugs the chassis. I'm still going to leave that as plan B though--still prefer to go with a truggy or stadium truck shape.

    Which wing and mount are you running?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by thetech View Post
    I don't see why the body would be too big, you could just trim the rear wheel wells and length a bit to fit.

    As for tires, I think your drive-line and motor are going to suffer going to a larger tire that is heavier and has an increased outer diameter.
    My concern if the body is too big that it will be a little wide (too close to the tires when turned) and if it's too long it just may not look right. For example, I tried test fitting a Helion Dominus 1/10th truggy body and thought it just looked off. It was a little too short--but it might look fine once I trim it out and add a wing.

    I'm definitely concerned the 1/8 sized tires will be too much. Wish I could find some people who have run them with a similar setup to say if it's too much or not..

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Briber View Post
    For tires if you want super grip, lower speeds, bashing tire I'd go with Duratrax lockups or 6pack mt. They balloon like crazy over 35mph but I can't see a tire giving you better grip than these. I only have experience with a few different tire types so hopefully others will add to this.
    Thanks for the suggestion! I like the tires and mounted they seem to be a good value. Have you seen them available unmounted? I figure I need to tape them anyway--so if I have to remove a set of tires and mount them I'd just assume use my rims or bump up to the 17mm hex 2.8" rims. At that point these will cost more than unmounted proline trenchers.

    Another thing I did notice is that duratrax has 4" truggy rims with 1/2" (less) offset than standard, which with adapters would be a tolerable width. I'm curious how the weight and rotating inertia of the truggy rims compare to something like a std proline 3.8?" They also have some affordable truggy track tires that are a little smaller than the badlands. Kinda tempted by these too. They're listed at 5.67 x 2.5 wide.

    Last edited by jalbrecht55; 02-22-2016 at 03:39 PM.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by CounterTrey View Post
    Have you gone through and reset the different modes to what you want? It wasn't until my latest rebuild that I discovered the truck was in training mode. I THOUGHT it was a rocket in 3s until I got it out of training mode and realized that it was nowhere close to max power.
    How do you reset it? I've just been using my castle programming card; I tried just about every setting on the card just to see if anything would change. If I turn off the cutoff voltage it worked fine but in auto... It would go into a low power mode of some sort.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Briber View Post
    I have a temp gun so I will be able to post actual temps when I get my batts either tomorrow or wed. I run 2s on that combo w/12/54 gearing and it's really quick. I love doing 20 or so and pulling wot in to a wheelie and riding that sucker down a house or two. I'm stoked about the 3s results.
    I'd be curious to hear what you find. When I first set this up (using a 9 tooth pinion and 3s) it seems to get a little hot the touch; running in grass would make it hot enough to be uncomfortable to touch. Since adding the fan I would call it "warm but not hot" running on 14 and even cooler on the 9 tooth. I've even done limited running with a 17 tooth pinion and it seems "warm" but I'm careful not to run it in grass much like that. I did just get an IR gun so I need to experiment. With the fan on there, there is very little exposed motor to measure.

    I'm curious if their 1/8th scale 2650 would be too much for the MMP on 4s.... Anybody know?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by jalbrecht55 View Post
    Thanks for the suggestion! I like the tires and mounted they seem to be a good value. Have you seen them available unmounted? I figure I need to tape them anyway--so if I have to remove a set of tires and mount them I'd just assume use my rims or bump up to the 17mm hex 2.8" rims. At that point these will cost more than unmounted proline trenchers.

    Another thing I did notice is that duratrax has 4" truggy rims with 1/2" (less) offset than standard, which with adapters would be a tolerable width. I'm curious how the weight and rotating inertia of the truggy rims compare to something like a std proline 3.8?" They also have some affordable truggy track tires that are a little smaller than the badlands. Kinda tempted by these too. They're listed at 5.67 x 2.5 wide.

    My daughter has those style tires on her 12mm hex stock size P4de wheels. They are great for hard surface traction. Okay for off road. Thats what I had on hers in this wheelie video. https://youtu.be/z4gbnF18dIw Here's what I'm working on now. The 2.8 six pack mt's mounted on 14mm Tmaxx size wheels.
    Going to definitely tape because they balloon like crazy, but love the traction they give so much I just gotta use them... I plan on using same style rims (I have another set of these) for street speed runs, just gotta find a good street tire...
    Last edited by Briber; 02-24-2016 at 09:38 AM.
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by jalbrecht55 View Post
    How do you reset it? I've just been using my castle programming card; I tried just about every setting on the card just to see if anything would change. If I turn off the cutoff voltage it worked fine but in auto... It would go into a low power mode of some sort.
    Pretty sure talking about the stock xl system where you can hold esc button down and switch between training, racing and sport modes.

    With our castle systems we don't have that option if running the stock rx & tx.

    If you have an after market rx & tx(with settings knobs on it),

    And have the aux coming off the esc and plugged in to rx,

    GeneralPede commented in a different post about being able to adjust power and other settings by tx alone without using link cable and computer or program cards.

    Castle told me they were going to the aux cable on esc and eventually going away from link and link duo...


    On your issue it sounds like esc is sensing low voltage cutoff.

    I would think that's an indication of bad cell(s)/(batt)

    OR

    Esc issue. How old/new is it all. Have you checked batt. Contacted castle?
    Last edited by Briber; 02-24-2016 at 09:24 AM.
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  16. #16
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    Yea another case of reading is fundamental. He listed the specs in the first post and all my brain saw was VXL. Duh.

    Oh and I haven't touched my Lockups since I got the Trenchers. Their grip is fantastic too but there is no comparison with ballooning. It's why they're more expensive I'm sure.

  17. #17
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    Well it all started out brand new and to this day (3-4 years now) I've been running the same stuff without issues, other than an apparent low voltage sensing even on a fully charged (4.2ish volt per cell) 2s pack.

    I probably should have contacted castle when I first got it, but I just decided to run my 2s batteries in my other RC's and stick to the 3s on this. It's kinda hard to go back to 2s after running 3s for so long!

    In any case it's kind of moot because just last week it started working just fine! I just don't get it.

    I've been doing some research and reading on using one of the larger can 2650 motors with my MMP; I should contact castle and see what they say, but it looks like many people have successfully run this combo, but, people that switch to the larger MMX/MM2 seem to report feeling a lot more felt power and of course the ESC runs a lot cooler.

    I'm starting to lean more towards a buggy body now. I really do want a truck but I do like how sleek, light, and low profile the 1/8th buggy bodies are.

    I'm also kinda leaning towards the 2.8" rim, maybe with the proline swamper tire (which is a little taller than the trencher and duratrax), and probably 17mm wheels and hexes. I'm still not sure if I should go for the 6mm or 10mm HR adapters. I noticed warbajr went from the 6 to the 10--kinda makes me think I should just start with the 10mm.

    But then thinking about those times I've clobbered the mailbox at full speed or flown really badly off a concrete ramp and slammed into the pavement, or those 60mph passes that end in about thirty cartwheels and my iPhone sailing off in to the bushes....... Maybe more leverage wouldn't be a good thing!!!

  18. #18
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    The rustler bulldog body fits perfect, I lowered and modified the mounts. Should make a good truggy body if you still wanted to go that route.


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    Thanks for the suggestion. I suspect it's going to be a little short on mine with the Slash chassis though. (The slash is about 1.75" longer than the stampede.)

    Here's what my stock body looks like just resting on the chassis. I think with some trimming and letting the shock tower poke through I could get it down a lot lower (which would help) but the wheel base mismatch isn't ideal.



    I went down to the local hobby shop and tried out a few more bodies. First is the Helion Dominus which I think is very similar in size to the rustler bulldog



    Here's the same thing in a trimmed/clear version:



    Here's a JATO, which I really like (better than most stadium bodies) because it doesn't have those little raised "ears" for shock tower clearance. It's also too short though. It might work OK if I could start with an untrimmed version. It does still sit up a little higher than ideal; I'd like the bottom of the tub about even with the bottom outer edge of the chassis.



    And here's a slash body, which fits like it was made for it. Imagine that... It looked a lot better than I expected but it just isn't the look I'm going after. I grew up with stadium trucks (Hawk twoey, RC10T, JRXT etc) - so to me that's what a 1/10th scale race truck should look like. I just can't get used to the width of these short course bodies, even though it is growing on me.



    I asked the LHS to order a proline enforcer for the RC8T, so maybe that will get here in the next week or so. I asked a while ago, I guess they never did order it.

    I still would like to go with a truggy body (we'll see how the enforcer fits), but at the moment, I'm leaning towards something like Squeegie built. Pretty neat looking!



    https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...=1#post6011869

    I'm not really sure which buggy body I like best though - seems to be some options out there. Kinda leaning towards the pro-line enforcer.
    Last edited by jalbrecht55; 02-27-2016 at 04:26 PM.

  20. #20
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    I had a chance to run a few packs through my body-less slashpede creation. So far I'm limited to 2S until my larger battery straps show up. Geared 14/54 its running around 31-32mph flat out and seems to have good power. It feels a lot quicker than (31mph) sounds. I guess it helps that I've been driving my (stock) summit a lot lately!

    So far I'm pretty happy with the LCG chassis. Now it's not a fair comparison going from 3S on a stampede chassis to 2S on the slash LCG - but it went from a wheelie monster to something that won't even lift a tire under WOT. It's sort of reminds me of an RC garage creeper or a really fast wiener dog. I'm still very much traction limited but it is quite controllable at 30mph and not bad off road. It does bottom and slide and bounce more than I recall, it almost feels like it has less wheel travel, although it doesn't. Again, it might be that I've been driving my summit a lot lately, skewing my impressions.

    I ran a full pack in the grass at pretty much WOT (SPC 2S, 5000mah, 40C) and the motor felt barely warm. My heat gun reported about 107F, but there is very little exposed motor to measure with the fan on there (so I'm not sure if that's an accurate reading of the motor or a mix of the motor and fan casing temperature).
    Last edited by jalbrecht55; 02-27-2016 at 04:27 PM.

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    I also decided to pull it back apart and die the chassis black. I was tempted to try something unusual like dark green, grey, blue or brown, but then decided to just stick with black. All I could find were the big bottles of RIT, so I got one of those.

    I read about a few techniques; this is what I did.

    1. Thoroughly washed the chassis with soap and water.
    2. Boiled about 2 gallons of water
    3. Put a splash of water in a small Steralite 6-8L(?) rectangular tub
    4. Poured in about 1/2 the bottle of RIT
    5. Poured in about 1.5G of boiling water and mixed it with the chassis.
    6. Dropped chassis in, topped off the water to the top of the container. I also put in my stampede chassis at the same time.
    7. Put the lid on the container and let it sit overnight.
    (I did stir it once before I went to bed).

    Like magic, here they are, BLACK! I can't believe how good the stampede chassis came out. What was a dirty beat up discolored nasty old tub now looks better than new.





    But I missed one piece of double sided tape! Ack. So I put it back in the cold dye-water for the day. I guess it should be pretty unnoticeable.



    .

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by jalbrecht55 View Post
    I also decided to pull it back apart and die the chassis black. I was tempted to try something unusual like dark green, grey, blue or brown, but then decided to just stick with black. All I could find were the big bottles of RIT, so I got one of those.

    I read about a few techniques; this is what I did.

    1. Thoroughly washed the chassis with soap and water.
    2. Boiled about 2 gallons of water
    3. Put a splash of water in a small Steralite 6-8L(?) rectangular tub
    4. Poured in about 1/2 the bottle of RIT
    5. Poured in about 1.5G of boiling water and mixed it with the chassis.
    6. Dropped chassis in, topped off the water to the top of the container. I also put in my stampede chassis at the same time.
    7. Put the lid on the container and let it sit overnight.
    (I did stir it once before I went to bed).

    Like magic, here they are, BLACK! I can't believe how good the stampede chassis came out. What was a dirty beat up discolored nasty old tub now looks better than new.





    But I missed one piece of double sided tape! Ack. So I put it back in the cold dye-water for the day. I guess it should be pretty unnoticeable.



    .
    Wish pictures were able to be seen!
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

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    I'm going to try reposting this same thing. I don't understand why the photos didn't link up properly the first time, but it seems to be working now (but only if I make a new post).

    Thanks for the suggestion. I suspect it's going to be a little short on mine with the Slash chassis though. (The slash is about 1.75" longer than the stampede.)

    Here's what my stock body looks like just resting on the chassis. I think with some trimming and letting the shock tower poke through I could get it down a lot lower (which would help) but the wheel base mismatch isn't ideal.



    I went down to the local hobby shop and tried out a few more bodies. First is the Helion Dominus which I think is very similar in size to the rustler bulldog



    Here's the same thing in a trimmed/clear version:



    Here's a JATO, which I really like (better than most stadium bodies) because it doesn't have those little raised "ears" for shock tower clearance. It's also too short though. It might work OK if I could start with an untrimmed version. It does still sit up a little higher than ideal; I'd like the bottom of the tub about even with the bottom outer edge of the chassis.



    And here's a slash body, which fits like it was made for it. Imagine that... It looked a lot better than I expected but it just isn't the look I'm going after. I grew up with stadium trucks (Hawk twoey, RC10T, JRXT etc) - so to me that's what a 1/10th scale race truck should look like. I just can't get used to the width of these short course bodies, even though it is growing on me.



    I asked the LHS to order a proline enforcer for the RC8T, so maybe that will get here in the next week or so. I asked a while ago, I guess they never did order it.

    I still would like to go with a truggy body (we'll see how the enforcer fits), but at the moment, I'm leaning towards something like Squeegie built. Pretty neat looking!



    https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...=1#post6011869

    I'm not really sure which buggy body I like best though - seems to be some options out there. Kinda leaning towards the pro-line enforcer.
    Last edited by jalbrecht55; 02-27-2016 at 06:30 PM.

  24. #24
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    I also decided to pull it back apart and die the chassis black. I was tempted to try something unusual like dark green, grey, blue or brown, but then decided to just stick with black. All I could find were the big bottles of RIT, so I got one of those.

    I read about a few techniques; this is what I did.

    1. Thoroughly washed the chassis with soap and water.
    2. Boiled about 2 gallons of water
    3. Put a splash of water in a small Steralite 6-8L(?) rectangular tub
    4. Poured in about 1/2 the bottle of RIT
    5. Poured in about 1.5G of boiling water and mixed it with the chassis.
    6. Dropped chassis in, topped off the water to the top of the container. I also put in my stampede chassis at the same time.
    7. Put the lid on the container and let it sit overnight.
    (I did stir it once before I went to bed).

    Like magic, here they are, BLACK! I can't believe how good the stampede chassis came out. What was a dirty beat up discolored nasty old tub now looks better than new.





    But I missed one piece of double sided tape! Ack. So I put it back in the cold dye-water for the day. I guess it should be pretty unnoticeable.



    .

  25. #25
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    Well my dye cold soak didn’t work… but luckily my sharpie did.

    With the chassis color taken care of, I decided to make a little ESC mounting plate.

    First I mocked something up with some card stock. (no photo). Normally I’d do a mockup, then draw it up in cad, clean up the shape, add crosshares for the center punch, then print it out to scale. Since I no longer have a printer and my PC with auto cad is giving me fits, I just freehanded this.

    With the card stock done, I taped that to some aluminum sheet I had from a past project.



    I punched then drilled the holes, then took it over to my little bandsaw to make the cuts.




    Next I did a little test fit.



    After that I used a file to clean up the edged, radius the corners, etc. I also decided to cut some speed holes with my step drill. And finally I cleaned it up with my orbital sander. I thought about putting on a smoother pad (I think this is 100 grit) but then thought this might give the servo tape a little more grip, so I left it.



    And here it is installed.



    I did want to countersink the screw holes, but I couldn’t find any flathead screws in my collection that were short enough. This did require two layers of servo tape so that the ESC didn’t bump into the screw heads. I probably could have used the hole to the left and avoided that problem.

  26. #26
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    Next I put the chassis back together, starting with the electronics.



    Does anyone have any pointers on shortening the wires from my ESC to motor? Seems like I could just remove the heat shrink, heat up the connector, remove it, trim the wires and resolder? Anything I should be aware of?

    Anyway, once that was done I decided to change the grease on my differential ring/pinion. Previously I used the stuff that came in my LCG kit labeled "synethic grease" but it seemed very thin, and when driving I could hear more gear noise than I recall in the past. I pulled the diffs out and it seemed like all the grease had pooled in the bottom and the gears were pretty much clean with no grease on them. So I put in some synthetic automotive wheel bearing grease I had, which seems a lot more like the stuff that was in there originally.

    Everything else went together pretty quickly.



    I ran it for a full battery, this time geared 17/54 with an SPC 25C 5000mAH battery. It ran nice, topping out at 45mph in the straights. I purposely ran it hard, pretty much WOT the whole time, lots of grass and a handful of high speed passes on the street out in front of my house. After the battery was done I measured 117F (highest reading) on the motor, with most areas reading around 110. It's about 50F outside today.

    What's a safe limit for motor temp?

  27. #27
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    I also tried out a few more bodies while it was sitting here on the bench.

    Stampede again (looks a lot better with the black chassis)


    I kinda like this one actually. Clod Buster!


    Wheelbase is just a little off on this one...

  28. #28
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    Today I decided to see if I could get my stampede body to fit properly.

    I decided it fit best sliding it all the way forward so that the rear shock tower is tight against the tailgate. This works pretty good- the front shocks and even the front bumper clear pretty good in that position.

    First thing I had to do was heat up the body and make some raised spots for the shocks and towers to sit.



    This looks a lot better in person. It fits great like this, the rear camber links just miss the back of the body.


    Then I attempted to heat up and reshape a beat up old set of front body mounts.


    That didn't quite work out so well. But in the end I did succeed in getting a set of rear stampede body mounts to work quite well! I flattened them and then bent the ears rearward. On top I put on a set of cut down (shortened) body posts.


    For the rear I just added a stock battery post. I need to get a second one.


    Here you can see how the front bumper tucks up under the hood.

  29. #29
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    And here's what it looks like:



    I also changed out my rear hub carriers. I put teknos "1.5" degree blocks on opposite sides (L on right and R on left) for a total of 2 degrees of toe in per side. (It was at 5 degrees previously). It looks better but I'm curious to see if it handles worse or not. I was almost a little surprised that as I tried each combination of 1.5 and .5 degree blocks that it measured right at 2, 3, 4 and 5 degrees using my iPhone level app.



    Sure looks a lot different than a stock one...



  30. #30
    RC Qualifier
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    Have you looked at EMaxx bodies?

    Chances make champions!

  31. #31
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    Magstang - thanks for the suggestion. I saw that in your post as well and thought that it looks pretty good. I think I'd like something more 'low profile' - but it is a pretty good fit.

    I've looked at my posts from other computers and for some reason on some computers they work and others they don't. On my phone, about half of them show up. So frustrating, I just don't understand what I'm doing wrong. I read through the faq and saw that it can be possible to upload images (to this forum) but none of those options seem to be available to me yet. If anyone has any pointers, feel free to PM me.... thanks.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by jalbrecht55 View Post
    Magstang - thanks for the suggestion. I saw that in your post as well and thought that it looks pretty good. I think I'd like something more 'low profile' - but it is a pretty good fit.

    I've looked at my posts from other computers and for some reason on some computers they work and others they don't. On my phone, about half of them show up. So frustrating, I just don't understand what I'm doing wrong. I read through the faq and saw that it can be possible to upload images (to this forum) but none of those options seem to be available to me yet. If anyone has any pointers, feel free to PM me.... thanks.
    Use the Tapatalk app. Check for it in the App Store or Google play store. Very easy to post pics using that!
    Slash 4x4 LCG / Stampede 4x4 VXL

  33. #33
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    It's been awhile since I tried tapatalk, but let's give this a shot...


  34. #34
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    It worked! That is a really loonnngggg pede!
    RC. an addiction I'm proud of

  35. #35
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    Let me try reposting the last few posts to see if the images will show up.

    Here is how I got the stock body to fit lower and in a more truggy like fashion on the longer LCG chassis.

    I decided it fit best sliding it all the way forward so that the rear shock tower is tight against the tailgate. This works pretty good- the front shocks and even the front bumper clear pretty good in that position. It does sort of accentuate the long wheelbase, which I don't really like, but overall it looks decent. In retrospect I kinda wish I had kept it in the stock position relative to the front bump as stock and reworked the body more over the shock towers.

    First thing I had to do was heat up the body and make some raised spots for the shocks and towers to sit.



    This looks a lot better in person. It fits great like this, the rear camber links just miss the back of the body.



    Then I attempted to heat up and reshape a beat up old set of front body mounts.



    That didn't quite work out so well. But in the end I did succeed in getting a set of rear stampede body mounts to work quite well! I flattened them and then bent the ears rearward. On top I put on a set of cut down (shortened) body posts.



    For the rear I just added a stock battery post. I need to get a second one.



    Here you can see how the front bumper tucks up under the hood.

    Last edited by jalbrecht55; 03-05-2016 at 12:53 PM.

  36. #36
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    And here's what it looks like:



    I also changed out my rear hub carriers. I put teknos "1.5" degree blocks on opposite sides (L on right and R on left) for a total of 2 degrees of toe in per side. (It was at 5 degrees previously). It looks better but I'm curious to see if it handles worse or not. I was almost a little surprised that as I tried each combination of 1.5 and .5 degree blocks that it measured right at 2, 3, 4 and 5 degrees using my iPhone level app.



    Sure looks a lot different than a stock one...




  37. #37
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    I recently picked up a set of Hot Racing 10mm offset 17mm hex adapters. These seem really nicely made. The main reason I picked them is that I wanted one set of adapters that would fit both my stock front axles and my rear Tekno axle set. Because they slide over the hex (just like a 12mm hex wheel), they fit both.

    I'll upload a pic later of the adapters, but here's what they look like with a set of 2.8 17mm hex proline rims and 2.8 swampers:







    These tires are hard to find unmounted. Most vendors will only sell one pair per order. I'm still waiting on the second pair to show up.

    I was a little disappointed that they aren't much taller than stock but otherwise they look and feel great.
    Last edited by jalbrecht55; 03-05-2016 at 12:55 PM.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by jalbrecht55 View Post
    I recently picked up a set of Hot Racing 10mm offset 17mm hex adapters. These seem really nicely made. The main reason I picked them is that I wanted one set of adapters that would fit both my stock front axles and my rear Tekno axle set. Because they slide over the hex (just like a 12mm hex wheel), they fit both.
    I bought some 12 to 14mm adapters that slide on over hex made of plastic, after several runs on 3s went to change wheels and adapter fell off in pieces when I took the wheel off. Great concept, poor strength. Hopefully yours are metal??? 12 to 14 adapters I bought only found 1 company that had them and plastic was all they offered...
    Last edited by Briber; 03-05-2016 at 09:03 PM.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  39. #39
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    The adapters I got are quite nice, aluminum Hot Racing pieces. After I get some photos I'll post them.

    In other news the local shop got a Pro line Enforcer (1/8th Truggy) body and I had a chance to test fit it.





    Unfortunately it's quite large. The wheelbase is a touch long. The width is just too much. I had a chance to compare it to a summit body shell and they are almost identical in size. I just don't think this is going to work either. I need to find a 1/9th scale truggy body I guess!

    For comparison, here's a summit body on it. Not the look I'm going for. However that enforcer body might look really nice on my Summit!



    Last edited by jalbrecht55; 03-06-2016 at 10:10 PM.

  40. #40
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    A few more updates:

    Here's the Hot Racing adapters. These fit right over the 12mm adapters and also work with both std traxxas axles and the Teknos I'm running in the back. I did have to shave the clamping screw head slightly.









    So far I really like these adapters. They fit nice and add about 10mm width per side.

    The only little thing I didn't like is that the threads are just a tiny bit short, the nut overhangs them just a little bit.


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