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  1. #1
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    HobbyWing Max 6 ESC

    Hi fellow X-Maxxers! This is my first post and I'd like to share my recent experience using a HobbyWing Max 6 in my X-Maxx. Punch and top speed is vastly improved using 16/50 gears! I can't imagine anyone needing more power or speed unless speeds runs on pavement is their primary type of use. Theoretical top speed is 40mph on 6S and although I don't have GPS installed, I believe the model is reaching every bit of 40mph now. Torque is amazing and I literally have to learn how to drive the truck all over again! Cruising at half speed and punching the throttle causes instant wheelies. The unit fits perfectly in the factory location, making it a very clean install and not increasing the center of gravity. In my opinion, nobody would upgrade the factory motor if they were to first experience the power and speed of this ESC in their X-Maxx. I made the switch because my factory ESC hit thermal protection every 2-3 minutes at this gearing and every 5-8 minutes using the factory 15/54 gearing. Admittedly, I run the power system extremely hard, normally either at full throttle or hard braking for about 80% of the run. But after running 2 sets of 9000 mAh 3S packs, the HobbyWing Max 6's heatsink was still barely warm to the touch. I might even remove the fan altogether because grass and other kinds of trash tend to get trapped in the ESC fan. Unfortunately, I believe I got a defective HobbyWing ESC because I've been unable to calibrate the throttle and have had no reverse! I will update this thread with pictures once I receive the replacement ESC and install it.

  2. #2
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    Yes, the temperature sensor works correctly.

  3. #3
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    I have been running the HW max6 for a while now and love it too. I tried to convey my excellent experience awhile back in a thread where some were considering going with the castle esc. The problem with the castle x and mm2 is they were never designed for this heavy of a truck. They may work, but what about heat issues and longevity? Factor in gearing and room for growth and its not a wise choice in my opinion. So, now they opt for the BL5 or HW max5 or castle xlx and it is more of a over kill that adds more weight up top. The max6 has a larger foot print than the x, mm2 but still fits in the stock location plus it's waterproof and can handle up to 8s. It's rated for 160amps continuous and over 1000 peak. ....I have been running 20/50 and its fine with esc and motor temps. In fact the motor runs so much cooler than it did with the stock esc and power is much better. Felt like it struggled with that gearing on the stock esc. Going to try 20/46 this weekend.

    Max6xmaxx, are you sure your esc is defective? The HW max6 can be tricky to program the throttle/reverse. If your transmitter/receiver is not centered and the travel is not set up right, the esc will not calibrate correctly. For mine, I tried with 70/30 on throttle and it does not like that, so make sure your at 50/50 on the stock transmitter. Clear the settings on the transmitter to start fresh by setting it back to default. I turned off the EPA for the throttle, and used full brake travel settings before calibrating the esc. Place truck on stand just incase things go wrong, turn on transmitter, plug in battery's, hold set down and turn on the power to esc. While keeping set down wait till the red light flashes and tones start beeping rapidly then release the set button. If you hold set too long you enter programming mod, the led will turn green. Keep the transmitter in neutral position and hit set one time, then hold full throttle fwd and hit set again, then hold full reverse and hit set. Finally, let it sit in neutral for a few seconds and its driveable.

    Reverse is a bit different than the castle and traxxas esc to operate. I just wait for it to completely stop, if you used brakes to achieve the stop then just make sure you go to full brake then let up and it should go to reverse when you reapply the brake/reverse direction. Hw esc require a double click method to enter reverse. Let me know if your still having trouble.

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the advice, MikeSVT! It was your thread about the HW Max 6 that made me want to use one. Yes, I tried centering my trims and I tried using both the 50/50 and 70/30 positions. I'm not sure how to turn off the end point adjustment on the factory transmitter, but I made sure everything was set to default settings in the Traxxas App, then I even tried disconnecting the Bluetooth module to make sure the settings in the App weren't causing the problem. I followed the calibration instructions in the manual exactly, and I viewed several videos on YouTube, but to no avail. After the ESC beeps 6 times for 6s and the green light changes to a fast red flashing light, hitting the SET button simple does nothing. Also, a similar problem existed when I entered the programming mode. After changing option 1 from Forward/Brake to Forward/Brake/Reverse, holding the SET button for 3 seconds would not allow programming of option 2 or any other options. I tried for over an hour doing the sequence different ways in case I was misreading the instructions, but the ESC would not respond like the HobbyWing ESCs in the YouTube videos. Thanks again for your assistance! I hope it will be smooth sailing when I receive the new ESC and it's not user error!
    Last edited by Max6XMaxx; 02-22-2016 at 09:49 PM.

  5. #5
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    Couple things...just to make sure your doing this correctly. Hold the set button down before you turn on the esc and keep the set button down after you turn the power on to the esc. Never let the set button go. This will allow you to scroll the programming menu. Once you let the set button go, it will enter that setting whether it be for lipo detection or motor direction etc. You can not re enter the menu again by holding the set button down again, at this point you just press the set button up and down without holding it until you have selected what you want and turn off the power.

    To calibrate the throttle, hold the set button down before you turn on the esc and keep it down as you power it on, release it as the red light blinks, but before you enter the programing mode. Release too soon or too late it will not get into the throttle calibration mode. It sounds like your trying to enter the calibration mode by hitting the set button after you power up, that might be the issue.

    I strongly recommend before you do any calibration to the esc, do a reset on your transmitter to default settings then adjust your brake travel to max. There is a lot of settings and it gets all confusing, the reset simplifies things. Use 50/50 that's' what worked for me.

  6. #6
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    I didn't do a formal transmitter reset, but I wish I would have tried that before uninstalling the ESC and hacking the connectors off the leads to prepar it for return to the vendor. Now, I need to wait for the replacement ESC and bring it to my local hobby shop for soldiering. I stink at solding larger gauge wires!

  7. #7
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    Also, I strongly recommend xt150 connectors or the castle creation 6.5's I know its a big pain to change all your stuff over, but keep in mind the traxxas connectors are rated for around 100 amps and this truck is pulling well over that. The EC5's are only rated for around 120 amps, so I would move to at least the xt150's.

    The programing card makes things alot easier; however, once you learn how to do it all, it is not needed.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeSvt View Post
    Also, I strongly recommend xt150 connectors or the castle creation 6.5's
    I second this. Either option works great and it's really not that difficult to solder, in fact, I find soldering XT150's very, very easy but then again I use a butane torch (Blazer Big Buddy) for the job. It can be done with a 60 watt solder station too. If people shop around, you can get 15 pairs of XT150 for under $15.

  9. #9
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    I didn't realize Traxxas "high current" connectors were only rated at 100A. I will certainly consider swapping everything out to different connectors, especially since I only run the X-Maxx now and I'll be selling all my other trucks. Due to how rough the terrain is I run on, none of my other trucks are half as fun to drive. Thanks for the input!

  10. #10
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    I'm embarrassed to admit, but I was simply not following the directions correctly when trying to calibrate and program my HobbyWing Max 6 ESC! Unlike the videos on YouTube, this particular ESC requires holding the set button longer than immediately releasing it after releasing the On/Off button. I'm glad I gave it one more try before sending it back to the vendor. Thanks again MikeSVT!

    Now, to decide whether or not to keep the Traxxas connectors. They don't get warm while running them, and I don't see any scorch marks on the spade connectors. If the Traxxas connectors were inadequate for the amperage, wouldn't they be getting hot? I have noticed my voltage drops much lower than in my E-Revo Brushless during high loads. Within a couple minutes of running, the low voltage alarm I installed "pings" at it's 3.5V setting. Oddly enough, once the batteries (SMC 3S 9000's) warm up after 5 or so minutes running, they often don't dip to 3.5V per cell again until much later in the run. The batteries barely get warm after running them hard, so I believe their C-rating is well within specs for this application. Perhaps I should start a new thread for this?!

  11. #11
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    Those SMC battery's are 60c, so given they are 9000...comes out to 540 continuous amps. Granted c ratings are not always rated the same, you still should be fine with your gearing no problem. 16/50 gearing is no sweat for the max6 esc and stock motor. However, I would not recommend keeping the traxxas connectors. Your probably pulling at least 110 amps and I can only imagine you will want to gear much much higher as you find out the HW can take it no problem even on stock motor. I am geared 20/50 and its still not sweating it. Just wait till you gear up, the truck becomes exciting.

    I use a small propane torch to solder all my bullet style connectors, I have found its faster and always makes for a really great connection. I strongly recommend a motor fan as well. I use a 24 volt 60x60x10.

  12. #12
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    I'm pulling a little over 170 amps peak running a 2028/xlx 49t/50t spur using castle 6.5mm connectors on 6s.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigtim1985 View Post
    I'm pulling a little over 170 amps peak running a 2028/xlx 49t/50t spur using castle 6.5mm connectors on 6s.
    Meh, I've run that same setup on 8S using deans. The traxxas connectors are sufficient.

  14. #14
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    Congratulations. I ran the same setup on deans as well. Never had an issue but my ripple voltage definitelly dropped significantly using the castle connectors, and I don't have to worry about a plug failing due to excessive amp draw.

  15. #15
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    MikeSVT- I might sound like a pansy, but 16/50 gearing seems fast enough for me using the HW Max 6 ESC. The ESC doesn't break a sweat even with it's fan removed. I hope that remains true in the dog days of summer heat here in southern Louisiana. Plus, punch and top speed is much better than my BL E-Revo with stock gearing on 4S. In fact, it's about equal now to my E-Revo on 5S, which is awesome in this large of a truck. Also, I'm already draining my SMC 9000's quickly, and higher gearing will shorten my run times even more.

    On a side note, I've decided to keep the Traxxas connectors. Danny at SMC feels they are perfectly adequate for this application, and he has never steered me wrong in the past.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Max6XMaxx View Post
    Hi fellow X-Maxxers! This is my first post and I'd like to share my recent experience using a HobbyWing Max 6 in my X-Maxx. Punch and top speed is vastly improved using 16/50 gears! I can't imagine anyone needing more power or speed unless speeds runs on pavement is their primary type of use. Theoretical top speed is 40mph on 6S and although I don't have GPS installed, I believe the model is reaching every bit of 40mph now. Torque is amazing and I literally have to learn how to drive the truck all over again! Cruising at half speed and punching the throttle causes instant wheelies. The unit fits perfectly in the factory location, making it a very clean install and not increasing the center of gravity. In my opinion, nobody would upgrade the factory motor if they were to first experience the power and speed of this ESC in their X-Maxx. I made the switch because my factory ESC hit thermal protection every 2-3 minutes at this gearing and every 5-8 minutes using the factory 15/54 gearing. Admittedly, I run the power system extremely hard, normally either at full throttle or hard braking for about 80% of the run. But after running 2 sets of 9000 mAh 3S packs, the HobbyWing Max 6's heatsink was still barely warm to the touch. I might even remove the fan altogether because grass and other kinds of trash tend to get trapped in the ESC fan. Unfortunately, I believe I got a defective HobbyWing ESC because I've been unable to calibrate the throttle and have had no reverse! I will update this thread with pictures once I receive the replacement ESC and install it.
    Are you running the stock motor?

  17. #17
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    Yes, with thermal paste inside the heatsink and a 60x60x25 fan. Without the fan, I accidentally reached 200 degrees F on the motor in about 8 minutes with the new ESC. The stock motor is plenty powerful enough for the X-Maxx in my opinion, but it needs a good fan or it gets hot quickly. Honestly, I'd be thrilled if a 5885 or similar size brushless motor existed that would fit with the HW MAX 6 ESC in the stock location and I would buy one in hopes of having temps in check without having to use a fan.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Max6XMaxx View Post
    Yes, with thermal paste inside the heatsink and a 60x60x25 fan. Without the fan, I accidentally reached 200 degrees F on the motor in about 8 minutes with the new ESC. The stock motor is plenty powerful enough for the X-Maxx in my opinion, but it needs a good fan or it gets hot quickly. Honestly, I'd be thrilled if a 5885 or similar size brushless motor existed that would fit with the HW MAX 6 ESC in the stock location and I would buy one in hopes of having temps in check without having to use a fan.
    Sounds good. I'm planning on getting the HR Monster Blower Fan for X Maxx.

  19. #19
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    It feels like the xmaxx is undergeared stock to compensate for the esc that comes with it. Mine does way less work to achieve the stock speed the xmaxx is capable of and runs much cooler. I still use a fan and run it hard. I am now geared 20/46 running hard offroad. Tires are outside line belted and holding up, a lot of fun.

  20. #20
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    Like I mentioned earlier, 16/50 gearing is 40 mph theoretically without tire expansion factored in. At that speed, I'm getting mild tire ballooning, so I'd certainly want to strap/belt the tires if I geared up further. At some point, I'm gong to use slightly smaller and hopefully less heavy tires for improved handling, less motor heat, and longer run times.

  21. #21
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    Can you explain how you belted your tires? After my first blown set, Traxxas sent me replacements, and the new set certainly does not balloon near as much. Ya weird, I know. The set that came out of the box ballooned much worse, and I ended up with some rim cracking too, but i'm putting off buying a new unglued set to experiment on, since the new set seems so much better.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by BearPawz View Post
    Can you explain how you belted your tires? After my first blown set, Traxxas sent me replacements, and the new set certainly does not balloon near as much. Ya weird, I know. The set that came out of the box ballooned much worse, and I ended up with some rim cracking too, but i'm putting off buying a new unglued set to experiment on, since the new set seems so much better.
    Not sure if this is what he's referring to when he says strap/belt, but to prevent ballooning, you turn the tires inside out and wrap in a couple layers of gorilla tape or duct tape. Flip them back and glue on to the rims.

  23. #23
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    A long time ago I use to duck/packing tape the inside of my tires, but I have learned over years that it can only hold up so long then your stuck with a severely unbalanced tire that you have to break down to fix. Back in my nitro years I started using nylon fishing line on the outside of the tire tread to hold them, it worked but didn't last too long. I have evolved now using siren braided line 60lbs test wrapped twice around each section of the tire. Glue the knot with tire ca and it last much longer than nylon fishing line. Its lighter than tape, easier to do and if it breaks you just rewrap and glue. I specifically look for tires with tread patterns that can be wrapped in multiple areas around the tread. The good news is the xmaxx tires can be wrapped in three areas, center and both sides.

  24. #24
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    How to pictures to this thread?

    I've taken some pictures of my HW Max 6 install, but I can't seem figure out how to post them. I'm using my iPhone if that matters. Can someone tell me how to? Thanks!

  25. #25
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    HobbyWing Max 6 ESC

    Quote Originally Posted by Max6XMaxx View Post
    I've taken some pictures of my HW Max 6 install, but I can't seem figure out how to post them. I'm using my iPhone if that matters. Can someone tell me how to? Thanks!
    Picture Posting Tutorial
    So long as the photo is taken in landscape mode, the forum will resize it down to the maximum allowable size. No additional effort on the member's part is required.
    You can also use Tapatalk to host your photos if you are using it on your mobile device.
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Max6XMaxx View Post
    I've taken some pictures of my HW Max 6 install, but I can't seem figure out how to post them. I'm using my iPhone if that matters. Can someone tell me how to? Thanks!
    Tapatalk is the easiest way I think. I followed your thread and just got my max 6 installed last night it is a perfect fit with no room to spare gonna take it out today for its first voyage. Just driving around the house slow it has so much control so smooth compared to the stuttery stock esc. I'll post a few of my install pics.

  27. #27
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    Thanks for the help! I've never used Tapatalk or even posted on any forums in the past, but Tapatalk seems to work well.

    RWC, looks good! Clean! I'm glad to see others using this ESC. I can't help but think that we'll see more and more of them in this chassis as the word spreads. Here's some pics of mine. Since I'm not using the ESC fan, I'm using the fan port to power my motor fan, making things look very clean and simple. The mounting location of my on-off button is temporary, but I might do something like you did! Please post again after you give the ESC a good run. What gearing are you using? Also, it looks like you might be using the thin gauged fusible link jumper wire. I'm not sure if I'd use that with this ESC!

    X-Maxx, Slash 4x4 LCG, ZMR250 Quadcopter

  28. #28
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    I'm using the stock jumper wire not the fuse able link, even though the traxxas wire says 10g on it it is a bit smaller than the 10g hw wire gonna solder up a new one later. I'm running 18/54 right now but will be 18/50 when my gear shows up in the mail today. Yeah I started making a mount for the power switch last night then looked at the receiver box and looked a decent place. I like it there except for if I have to open the box i may have to remove it every time but will probably just velcro it there if that's an issue. Is there any specific reason your not running the fan on the esc, I always figure the more cooling the better on electronics.

  29. #29
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    I'm not using the fan because it simply doesn't seem to get hot enough to need it. This is an 8S ESC, so I think 6S will never cause heat issues. I'll be sure to check temps again if I gear up and when the weather gets hotter. Also, I kept getting grass and other debris trapped in the heatsink beneath the fan and compressed air wouldn't remove it so the fan kept binding while fighting the debris. I ran the truck yesterday, and on a 78 F degree day, and both the ESC and motor only reached 140 degrees. It was awesome to run it hard for 20 straight minutes without temperature becoming a problem! I have my ESC low-voltage programmed to "high", and it goes into limp mode when the batteries reach a voltage that tends to be around 3.65V per cell once the cells rest and cool off, which is perfect in my opinion.

  30. #30
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    It is nice to see others using the Maxx6 esc as well, it is a good fit for the stock system. I too run the cut off in high, 3.6 is a good safety margin if things get out of wack. I used the motor wire extensions that came with the esc so I could turn the esc around. My motor wires are toward the front, my reasoning is for easier fan disconnect(programing is used with port) and easier to pull the motor for gearing change with the extra length and access to the wires.

    Now if i could only keep from stripping the steering servo gear, I am on my third set lol...I desperately need a fix. Went through two from landing high jumps, the last was from a unlucky rock wedging between the servo arm and base of the truck frame.

  31. #31
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    I haven't stripped any servo gears yet, but I don't jump mine much. I did snap my first front hub drive pin today. Tore up the inside of the stub axle a good bit, but I was able to install a rebuilt kit I had on hand and it's good-to-go now, other than needing a 20x27x4 bearing that now spins a bit roughly. I ordered some Avids and will continue to run the damaged one until they arrive.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Max6XMaxx View Post
    I haven't stripped any servo gears yet, but I don't jump mine much. I did snap my first front hub drive pin today. Tore up the inside of the stub axle a good bit, but I was able to install a rebuilt kit I had on hand and it's good-to-go now, other than needing a 20x27x4 bearing that now spins a bit roughly. I ordered some Avids and will continue to run the damaged one until they arrive.
    So far my servo has been fine too I jump mine a little bit. I got to run a few packs through it today with the max6 installed and my 18/50 gearing truck did awesome. By the end of my 9000 smc packs being running as hard as I can my motor was about 145 and I didn't even bother checking the esc it had no issues. That's after running across tall grass hayfields wide open with some hard breaking just to try and heat things up. It was about 60 out but seems great. Funny you mention the bearing the exact one you ordered I just ordered new avids also. I took both rear out today and both the inner bearings are super rough already and I have barely driven my max due to winter. I'm guessing my fronts are the same or will be soon so I'm replacing all the wheel bearings with avids.

  33. #33
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    Where can a person get a maxx 6 ESC,seems to be hard to find.always on backorder everywhere

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by steveomaxx517 View Post
    Where can a person get a maxx 6 ESC,seems to be hard to find.always on backorder everywhere
    I ordered mine off eBay for 159 plus a few bucks shipping, got it in 2 days. Looks like there on sale now for 136 show they got like 4 here is a link.

    http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...073119&alt=web
    Last edited by rwc2002; 03-01-2016 at 12:06 PM.

  35. #35
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    Wow, that's cheap on eBay. I paid $145 for mine from A-Main, but that was after a $15 coupon they offered as a February promotional.

  36. #36
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    What size are your batteries? Length and width?
    Quote Originally Posted by Max6XMaxx View Post
    Thanks for the help! I've never used Tapatalk or even posted on any forums in the past, but Tapatalk seems to work well.

    RWC, looks good! Clean! I'm glad to see others using this ESC. I can't help but think that we'll see more and more of them in this chassis as the word spreads. Here's some pics of mine. Since I'm not using the ESC fan, I'm using the fan port to power my motor fan, making things look very clean and simple. The mounting location of my on-off button is temporary, but I might do something like you did! Please post again after you give the ESC a good run. What gearing are you using? Also, it looks like you might be using the thin gauged fusible link jumper wire. I'm not sure if I'd use that with this ESC!

    E-Revo, E-Maxx, X-Maxx, Aton Quad

  37. #37
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    According to the SMC website, the 9000 mAh 3S packs are 162mm long, 47 wide, and 39.5 tall. As seen in the pictures, I added foam blocks on the sides and the back of the battery compartments for a snug fit. I recommend anyone else using these soft packs to do the same.

    http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?...product_id=348

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Max6XMaxx View Post
    According to the SMC website, the 9000 mAh 3S packs are 162mm long, 47 wide, and 39.5 tall. As seen in the pictures, I added foam blocks on the sides and the back of the battery compartments for a snug fit. I recommend anyone else using these soft packs to do the same.

    http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?...product_id=348
    I don't know if you posted this information in previous post or not but how much run time are you getting with those packs? I understand times can vary.

    My build centers around running 8s power but there seems to be way more battery options for 6s. What mean is that there are plenty of 8000mah and up 3s lipo packs at very reasonable prices. The only high capacity 4s packs that are good performer's are Kershaws but those are $120 each. I might have to reconsider.

    I emailed SPC and they confirmed that they have zero plans to bring a 4s lipo with a capacity of 8000mah or more to market.

    Traxxas had great foresight and gave the XMaxx generous battery space so I'd like to take advantage of that.

  39. #39
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    How do you guys think the Max6 would work in an ERBE? I have been looking at it for awhile to use in my ERBE. I was thinking of using it with the Poseidon 2200kv motor.
    1/10 ERBE
    1/10 Slash 4x4 X2

  40. #40
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    Derpz, my run times are short because I'm running on 3 acres of mostly open grass and dirt, so I'm full throttle or hard braking most of time. Kind of like circuit racing, doing touch and goes around various places of the property, seeing how fast I get from one point to another. The shortest run time I've got was 19 minutes with voltages resting at 3.65V per cell after the batteries cooled back down. The longest run I've had was 24 minutes with the batteries averaging 3.58V per cell after resting for about 10 minutes. I estamate most people just bashing would get about twice that amount of time.

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