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  1. #1
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    Slipper woes, help a newbie out.

    I can not figure out why my hot racing slipper setup will not work.

    Back story...I had the stock slipper pads give out so I wanted to change out to the hot racing double up slipper. I have it all assembled how I think it should be off everything I have read. Using the hole closer to the middle of the shaf (not the stock hole). When I put it in the truck it's making a sound like something is making contact that shouldn't. It also makes the neutral rolling stop a lot faster. So I got frustrated and put a stock system back in and all good.

    I'm noticing tonight that the stock system seems to be wearing out one pad faster than the others. So I'm re visiting this situation. I put in the center diff and it too seems to make the same odd sound as the HR slipper...stock is fine tho.

    The mount is good, bearing fits snug. Bearings are all new and is smooth. The shaft is not bent. There seems to be no play and any of the setups...even still I tried a wheel bearing on the back end of the HR setup. I don't see the fins on the back of the HR setup rubbing anything. Everything looks normal and correct...unless I'm not looking at it all. M

    I will say I also rebuilt my rear diff when I switched in the HR unit. Is it possible there is something wrong with the diff ring and pinion setup that doesn't show up until I try the HR unit or the stock center diff? Don't the ring and pinion only really go together one way?

    I just don't know what else to look at and need ideas. I'll pull the diff out and open it up if need be. Only thing odd to me is the stock setup seems to work fine.

  2. #2
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    You are going to have to separate parts, and narrow down where the issue is.

    And pictures...maybe someone will see something obviously wrong.
    Slash, Street Rally, 4x4 /Slash, Summit LT, Aton.

  3. #3
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    Next to the center diff. Little bit of difference probably from the t-maxx disc. I tried the aluminum pads in the past with the same sound. Haven't tried again to confirm difference next to the maxx disc. But people are running both setups without issues.


  4. #4
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    Here are some vids. Without the rear assembly on it sounds normal. Bolt on the rear and you can hear it's off. Also if I just have the bottom two screws in and bend it all to separate the two a little, and the sound goes away some. But once I let go and screw in the top screw it sounds bad and binds. I can't see it hitting anywhere nor do I see rub marks. There are some rub makes around the area but I think that was from one of the stock pads braking up and slapping around. There is no forward/back play in the slipper assembly.

    http://youtu.be/YITvWqnGfjk

    http://youtu.be/8tKN0rDCQSs

  5. #5
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Are you sure your mesh isn't too tight? It looks tight from the video, but I can't tell that well from my computer.

    Also, your spring is tightened all the way down, do you need it that tight?
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  6. #6
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    What he said.... Sounds like the mesh is too tight....

  7. #7
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    I'm pretty sure it's not too tight. If I change everything to the stock slipper and put it back the sound goes away. Would changing only the slipper stuff alter the mesh??


    The spring is hand tight...altho maybe the but is worn from me swapping back and forth so much. I haven't run it like that so idk if it's tight or not. I'm just trying to get the sound to go away.
    Last edited by NOLAGT; 02-26-2016 at 07:06 AM.

  8. #8
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    Definetly not the mesh, I just checked it again. I even flipped the motor completely out of the way and spun the tires and you can hear it's not right and there is resistance.

    If I have just the 2 bottom screws holding the rear assembly to the chasies I can make the sound come and go. If I push down on the rear assembly and make it separate a little it goes away. When it's put together for the top screw holes to line up the sound is back.
    Last edited by NOLAGT; 02-26-2016 at 07:53 AM.

  9. #9
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    Couple more vids.

    This one you can see I only have the bottom 2 screws in. Take note of how the top 2 are lined up. If I spread it appart the sound is normal...try to line up the holes and you can hear it come back. Sounds more noticeable in person as well.

    https://youtu.be/DRIvfb1EL0s

    This one I have a top screw in...you can hear the mesh clicking...may even be too loose at this point.

    http://youtu.be/CZdX1iXQvmw

  10. #10
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Mesh looks good. But your slipper spring should not normally be tightened all the way down.
    Last edited by RazorRC22; 02-26-2016 at 11:53 PM.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  11. #11
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    What angle is the slipper shaft at? I found with my Slash that the chassis flex tends to angle the shafts upwards a little bit rather than it staying perfectly straight. Makes it hard to get the rear assembly to mate straight with the slipper shaft. This is the main reason I run a VG chassis brace, to keep the while center drivetrain perfectly straight. Read my blog for more info.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  12. #12
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOLAGT View Post
    Next to the center diff. Little bit of difference probably from the t-maxx disc. I tried the aluminum pads in the past with the same sound. Haven't tried again to confirm difference next to the maxx disc. But people are running both setups without issues.
    It's also possible the other people using this setup "without problems" actually have problems and don't realize it. And then they wonder why their motor runs hot (so they put on a fan) or their driveshafts break (so they buy MIPs) or their spur gear breaks (and they buy aluminum spur gears).
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    Mesh looks good. But your slipper spring should not normally be tightened all the way down.
    I don't run it all the way tight...I had been flipping back and forth between stock and the HR setup so it's just "on there".

    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    What angle is the slipper shaft at? I found with my Slash that the chassis flex tends to angle the shafts upwards a little bit rather than it staying perfectly straight. Makes it hard to get the rear assembly to mate straight with the slipper shaft. This is the main reason I run a VG chassis brace, to keep the while center drivetrain perfectly straight. Read my blog for more info.
    I'll try and look at that today, I plan to spend a little time with it again.

    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    It's also possible the other people using this setup "without problems" actually have problems and don't realize it. And then they wonder why their motor runs hot (so they put on a fan) or their driveshafts break (so they buy MIPs) or their spur gear breaks (and they buy aluminum spur gears).
    I don't know, the HR setup I think is pretty much like the revo mod everyone does as well it just had the ability to run 3 more pads. I think some even have the tmaxx disc on the revo setup as well. And the sound it makes is more pronounced in person vs the vid...if think someone would notice rather quickly if it was doing this. It also makes the car not roll as easy in neutral...like its binding.

  14. #14
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    Looking at it some more just now. With the HR setup on it seems to make the back end of the shaft "longer" and a stock setup. Making the shaft go into the diff further...and what I'm hearing is the pressure it puts on the ring and pinion inside the diff. I have suspected this for a while because with it appart if I stick the slipper assembly into the diff and spin with my hands it will make a much louder sound if it's pushed into the diff rather than "just" in it.

    Anyone with the HR setup or revo setup have any wisdom on the matter?

    I can not see any rub mark nor do I see where it could even be close enough to rub. When it's together the slipper has zero play front and back. So it seems like it's wedged in there and putting pressure on the diff.

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