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  1. #1
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    Breaking Driveshafts Every Outing Help

    First off let me start by saying I am a newer racer/basher late in life (37 year old). Bought first electric rc about a year ago E-revo brushless, I went big for the first time. I read so much information from websites to blogs, to youtube videos and reviews I was pretty sure I made the right decision. I was trying to show off to someone when I first got it and put in lipos and proceeded to run full speed into a parking block and cracked everything from front to back. So after getting it back from the local hobby shop I decided from here on out to try and repair and replace and upgrade myself to keep cost down , oh and learn to drive as well. yada yada yada get to the point ok here goes:

    I mostly drive around my house (ie. fields, yards, neighborhood streets) and I have broken all of the stock driveshafts and replaced them with the traxxas aluminum driveshafts and currently have broken two of those as well?? What gives? I did upgrade to the proline trencher tires and I have read that it can put more stress on the driveshafts could that be it?

    I wouldn't even consider what i do small jumps over small hills bashing and Im not sure if its just a weak part in the car or i need to adjust the suspension higher with the stock spring adjustments(its still stock from the box) maybe its bottoming out?

    i also upgraded the push rods to the traxxas red aluminum ones as well, just cause I bent one but not thing that has anything to do with me blowing through driveshafts.

    I have read so many articles and blog posts that contain a little of what im looking for but don't really touch on this subject alone, if i missed something please forward me and I will read.

    P.S. I don't mind spending money to upgrade to better more durable parts if there is nothing that can be done on my part with the car as is.

    E-Revo Brushless
    Traxxas Red Push Rods (F)
    Traxxas Aluminum Driveshafts (F&R)
    Proline Trenchers
    35C 5000mah Lipos

  2. #2
    RC Champion soundmaster's Avatar
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    Yup. Trenchers are the Problem. Are you running 6s?

    Also you could try loosening the slipper.

  3. #3
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    Yes I am running 6s, and the driveshafts break in all different ways, some pins falling out some have just sheared right out and broke in half. I don't mind spending $48 every now and then for some spares but I knew it had to be something else besides that they are just weak parts. If I raise it up via the shocks for a higher stance will that help any or just go back to a stock tire?

  4. #4
    RC Champion soundmaster's Avatar
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    No the ride height doenst make any difference. With the trenchers try 4s or be really easy on the throttle or run smaller lighter tires eg. stock or badland on 6s should be ok.

    Also be sure to set the slipper properly. Are you running on high traction surface such as grass?

  5. #5
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    had the same issue. now the trencher x`s are on my e-mta and are perfect for that car while the e-mta tires are on the e-revo. they are light and durable, as high as the trenchers but less wide. havent had any issues with driveshafts since then (i run 6s, sometimes one breaks but waaay less than before).

  6. #6
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    Yes like yard style grass not high weeds. I will have to read about setting the slipper Im not familiar with that.

  7. #7
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    hope this isnt a stupid question but when you say driveshafts are you sure youre not blowing axles? Driveshaft connecting tranny and differential or axle which connects differential to wheel? The erevo will annihilate stock axles, diffs, slipper clutches etc but ive had zero issues with drive shafts. I did get the traxxas metal drive shafts with metal axles front and rear. The drive shafts have held up but all 4 metal axles bent. Went back to summit axles and problem gone
    Last edited by CharlatonHeston; 03-01-2016 at 12:51 PM.

  8. #8
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    I recently was feeling frisky showing off did two consecutive back flips and started hearing clicking. When I got around to taking it apart i found i destroyed spider gears in both differentials, chipped tooth in rear pinion and bent all four axles. Drive shafts were fine as they dont see the torque magnification that the axles do

  9. #9
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    Yeah just looked back at my amazon orders and it definitely was Traxxas 5451Revo CV Driveshafts

  10. #10
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    If it helps at all, all of the driveshafts are breaking at the connection point where it connects into the wheel well. The stock plastic ones just basically broke apart or sheared clean off. The metal ones just seem to shear apart or i lose the pins and I don't believe IMO I'm driving the care "hard" at all compared to anyone on the forums I have seen. I am going to try and set the slipper like Soundmaster said when I get home but I have to diagnose the issue from last night and see if its just another driveshaft.

  11. #11
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    those are axles, if you remove skid plate from truck you will see the drive shafts. one small up front and one longer one in the rear. Ive owned the exact ones you listed and bent all of them. you need to order these and your problems will be solved

    traxxas 5656 id say times 3 so you have an extra set in case
    traxxas 5653 times 4 they can be reused
    traxxas 5654 times 4 they can be reused

    There designed for the summit but theyre a direct bolt on to the erevo. Its a little bit of an investment but its the best ive found, and if any part of it breaks it will be the cheap plastic tube. I havent broke one yet. I like tower hobbies as they always have coupon codes. ive saved hundreds. and f amazon
    Last edited by CharlatonHeston; 03-01-2016 at 01:55 PM.

  12. #12
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    heres a good video link that should help you out a lot me thinks
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYm01ShgvSY

  13. #13
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    There are "long" and "short" ones which one should I get? Referring to Traxxas 5656.

  14. #14
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    long front and rear. The summit has a wider differential that erevo does not thats why you need long all the way around. go to towerhobbies enter the part numbers ive listed and the appropriate parts will come up. I went into my order history at towerhobbies to get the part numbers i ordered and have currently installed on my vehicle. do watch the video if you havent, good stuff.

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXWWF8&P=ML

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWWF5&P=7

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWWF6&P=7
    Last edited by CharlatonHeston; 03-01-2016 at 02:27 PM.

  15. #15
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    Already did and I really do appreciate it, parts are overnighted for tomorrow install. Should I even worry about the ride height and mess with the shock settings or just leave them from factory? In your humble opinion?

  16. #16
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    im by no means a pro, just got into things a little while back myself. Stock seemed way too loose to me and it would bottom out very easily. It also made driving in snow with paddles difficult as the body acted like a plow unless you were moving. It depends on what you want to do with it lots off jumps and able to clear stuff raise it up but you will lose cornering as the truck will want to flip over in turns. For me i like the suspension all the way up height wise stiffer stock springs installed and tightened to maintain a tall ride height. it doesnt bottom out has good clearance but is not ideal for very high speed runs and quick cornering. got a slash for that. Do you want a monster type truck or a track racer or something in between. youll be psyched with the new axles, its silly the erevo doesnt come with them stock but traxxas must make a fortune from people destroying the useless stock ones. Ha and once you stop the axles from breaking its just gonna find the next weakest link and break there ie differential gears slipper clutch. Best to learn throttle control off the line or get a castlelink controller to adjust the esc or get used to working on the truck a lot and upgrading as you go. it may look intimidating but its actually quite simple to work on once you get into it
    Last edited by CharlatonHeston; 03-01-2016 at 02:51 PM.

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    I ran 6s, but then again I do not have trenchers on, instead badlands, now lst2 diff and offcourse I have had great results from the MIP X duty driveshafts, with traxxas centre driveshaft on.
    Live life to the fullest

  18. #18
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    I run big joe 2 on 6s with summit axles with no problems. And if i do damage one it will cost me 2.30 and a trip to my tool box to replace it. And id rather have a weaker point to go out rather than a more expensive metal one

  19. #19
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    Yeah I rarely used the truck when I first got it but have become friends with all the other "kids" in the neighborhood(30-somethings) that have cars and we hang out and play around every afternoon. I think everyday last week I broke an axle so it will be nice to get a good solid setup and not have to act like a pit stop every time my truck goes down. I like working on it myself especially the cost savings but its good to teach my son as well. Love the forum love the replies thanks again to everyone.

  20. #20
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    I'm still not a huge fan of plastic drive shafts.

    I'm using traxxas center and GPM steel on all 4 corners.

  21. #21
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    Awesome have fun and let us know how the summits work out for you

  22. #22
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    I wont go back to the plastic ones ever, the traxxas centre driveshaft and the MIP on all four corners are just unfogiving. Equaly I cannot say enough of how great the traxxas steel velocity on all cornes of my revo .

    The plastic ones twisted so much that there were hardly any telescopic action....and limiting the travels of the arms and suspension.
    Live life to the fullest

  23. #23
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    if i read the entry post correctly we have the following igredients:
    - new rc hobbyist
    - big fat supercool looking trenchers
    - 6s setup
    - somewhat of a preference for big jumps

    if that is the case then i would say it is very "classic" that you break axles (or driveshafts, imho the word driveshafts is also sometimes used for the axles).

    the usual suspects for those breakings are:
    - slipper is set too tight (rule of thumb: fully close and let loose for 1/4 to 1/2 a turn)
    - the fat tires look cool but other than that they just put stress on the drivetrain, first the axles break, if you fix the axles the weak point is wandering "inside" to the differentials etc. imho steel cvd are nice but if you do that you probably should also go with the lst diff mod etc. improving the whole drivetrain. i personally drive my e revo with 6s setup for 7 years now with the stock axles. i break 2-3 of them a year. fixed within 5min and cost about 10$ each. i also like the big fat tires (trencher x, big joes) because i am a monster truck fanatic. however i learned the hard way that those tires mainly look supercool on pictures but actually have a negative impact on the whole driveabillity of the truck. so bye now i prefer tires like badlands, dirt claws etc.
    - landing after jumps on break or throttle. that puts superstress on the drivetrain and results typically in shredded axles right by the tires (exactly like it was reported above).

    so what could one do about it?
    - imho and upgrade of the axles is not a necessity. but the summit axles are a good compromise imho.
    - set the slipper correctly
    - learn to control the truck "better", learn to control you trigger finger, land after jump without break of throttle anytime,
    - put the fat heavy tires on for cool pictures and then put them aside and mount some smaller lighter tires for driving
    - if you do big jumps try to stiffen up the suspension a little bit. but don't make the truck to "hard". if you do really big jumps the truck is supposed to bottom out.
    - accept that if you bash really hard it will result in more damage even if you become an experienced driver and have decent setup

    just my 2 cents

    bye
    rhylsadar

    ps: you made me feel sad a little bit with this statement.....
    Quote Originally Posted by Casey316 View Post
    .... late in life (37 year old)...
    Last edited by rhylsadar; 03-02-2016 at 04:27 AM.
    Exercitatio artem paravit

  24. #24
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    LOL thanks rhylsadar for that post super informative. Well yeah it kind looks weird to people that come out of their house and see all this radio controlled car noise and its 3 guys with beers in our hands driving and giggling like were school girls , its quite a scene. I will be purchasing the badlands setup this weekend after overhauling the axles using the summit setup. I am definitely going to check the slipper setting asap and make sure that is set correctly. I have come to realize a lot of it is the driving so Im going to spend some time and take it easy and learn to drive it the right way. Updates to follow this weekend.

  25. #25
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    Are the Hot Racing axles any good in comparison with the Summit conversion?

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by CharlatonHeston View Post
    I run big joe 2 on 6s with summit axles with no problems. And if i do damage one it will cost me 2.30 and a trip to my tool box to replace it. And id rather have a weaker point to go out rather than a more expensive metal one
    I like the lst2 diffs with summit axles as well. I also set the punch control to the middle position. I run badlands and trenchers and I don't break anything and it is still silly fun. If something does break it'll likely be the cheap easy to replace axle tube.

  27. #27
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    I am yet to put the metal to the test, I am sure my MIP will have no issues with the lst2 diff also now in place.

    Initial 6s runs with stock diffs have proven that the MIP X duty can definetely handle it better than the stock, I finally sheared one of my diffs which was expected with 6s, it was just a matter of time.......and now that is resolved so winter please be over soon...

    When I calculated (must have done it wrong), the summit axles came close to the price of the MIP so I opted for the MIP since I already have the experience of my slash 4x4....definetely Worth the investement
    Live life to the fullest

  28. #28
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    "but don't make the truck to "hard". if you do really big jumps the truck is supposed to bottom out."

    Whys this, Im curious.

    And for the mips, Ive heard good things but by the time i heard of them i had already invested in the summit and the failed metal traxxis axles so i couldnt justify spending more for what i saw as bling (for lack of a better word) at that point. and not to be redundant but a repair on a axle will cost you less then 4 bucks
    Last edited by CharlatonHeston; 03-02-2016 at 09:49 PM.

  29. #29
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    concerning the bottom out after large jumps.
    if you stiffen up your suspension so hard that the shocks are able to absorb real big jumps it will be so stiff that the truck will become super bumpy in all other driving situations. furthermore the probability of damaging the shocks increases significantly (e.g. popping off shock caps etc). hence if you want a decent suspension setup for the truck the compromise is to stiffen it up a little bit for the larger jumps but leave it soft enough that the truck still handles properly in all other situations.

    for instance if i setup my 8th scale buggies on the track i won't set the suspension for this one big jump but deliberately accept that it will bottom out at this big jump but still is soft enough for the rest of the track. its not just me, all rc buddies i know do it this way.

    the skidplates are here to absorb residual energy that the suspension system couldn't. thats what skidplates are here for.

    if you just let the truck sit the wishbones should be more or less horizontal. negative spring travel is super important for the handling of an offroad rc car and often underestimated.
    Exercitatio artem paravit

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by rhylsadar View Post
    concerning the bottom out after large jumps.
    if you stiffen up your suspension so hard that the shocks are able to absorb real big jumps it will be so stiff that the truck will become super bumpy in all other driving situations. furthermore the probability of damaging the shocks increases significantly (e.g. popping off shock caps etc). hence if you want a decent suspension setup for the truck the compromise is to stiffen it up a little bit for the larger jumps but leave it soft enough that the truck still handles properly in all other situations.

    for instance if i setup my 8th scale buggies on the track i won't set the suspension for this one big jump but deliberately accept that it will bottom out at this big jump but still is soft enough for the rest of the track. its not just me, all rc buddies i know do it this way.

    the skidplates are here to absorb residual energy that the suspension system couldn't. thats what skidplates are here for.

    if you just let the truck sit the wishbones should be more or less horizontal. negative spring travel is super important for the handling of an offroad rc car and often underestimated.
    Thanks for the info. The main reason I went super high was for going through snow with paddles. Stock setup was basically useless in 3 inches of powder unless the car was already going at a good clip. What do you think about a tall suspension but a lighter shock oil? Would that help negate the bounce and chance of damaging the shocks? Lots to learn on these little buggers

  31. #31
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    Also when I rebuilt my diffs I used the hot racing diff cup. If that fails I guess I'll have to break out the Dremel and the cash for the lst mod

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by CharlatonHeston View Post
    Thanks for the info. The main reason I went super high was for going through snow with paddles. Stock setup was basically useless in 3 inches of powder unless the car was already going at a good clip. What do you think about a tall suspension but a lighter shock oil? Would that help negate the bounce and chance of damaging the shocks? Lots to learn on these little buggers
    Springs affect your ride height (what you call tall suspension). It gives you more ground clearance at the expense of a stiff and high center or gravity ride. Oils only control rebound or how fast a fully compressed shock comes back up. The lighter the oil or more holes a piston has, the less resistance the oil has to make it through and therefore rebound is fast. Opposite for thicker shock oil.

  33. #33
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    yeah suspension setups are really kind of a "science" :-) i personally like a setup with thicker oil an maybe somewhat bigger/more holes in the shock piston better than one with thin oil. however i have to admit that on the trucks i don't drive mainly on a track i care much less about the shock setup. it should really feel smooth and viscid. and as said above a "tall" suspension would reduce the negative spring travel which is imho key for a smooth setup that gives the truck a good handling in absorbing the smaller and bigger bumps.
    Exercitatio artem paravit

  34. #34
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CharlatonHeston View Post
    Also when I rebuilt my diffs I used the hot racing diff cup. If that fails I guess I'll have to break out the Dremel and the cash for the lst mod
    Lots of membres have different methods etc. Over the years the lst diff mod though tme consumint sems to the best remedy and fix for trigger hungry people like who like 6s. Even dfor 4s use it is advantages.....
    Live life to the fullest

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