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  1. #1
    RC Racer Sneetches's Avatar
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    Slash 4x4 Rock Racer build...

    Hi guys, just thought I'd post a recent project of mine that I started and have had ideas for some time to do. A couple things led up to this:

    1. Stampede 4x4 had become unused and I was longing to change it into something else, very much inspired by Jang's Shapeshifter series. I got a chance to drive my friends Slash 4x4 platinum and instantly realized that converting to a Slash was my first objective, I simply needed the longer wheelbase.

    2. I wanted a double duty offroad truck to drive trails but still handle well enough for driving around more prepared surfaces. The Slash 4x4 was surprisingly good on some dirtbike trails with nothing but some Pro-Line Badlands out of the box.

    3. I don't want an Axial Yeti, it'll end up costing way more than me just doing this conversion and a Slash will outhandle it for what I need it to do anyways.

    Here is the goal look for the truck:




    Some of this is going to be bolt on and some might require some work, but that's part of the fun right? Anyways, here's how my Stampede 4x4 sits now:






    I'm essentially already "bullet-proof" with my Pede. Revo slipper upgrade, King Headz motor mount, Tekno M6 axles, Tekno rear hubs and steering blocks, etc. A lot of those parts will be making the transition along with my current electronics. Other parts are undecided at the moment.

    I'll update the thread as parts start arriving or I make some progress.

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    I like it! I really appreciate it when people think out of the box and come up with something that is completely different. Please keep us posted
    Member of the 10,000 + posts club! Here to help!

  3. #3
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    Nice ride, can't wait to see the transition.

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    I wanted to get the Yeti cage when DollarHobbys had it. They sold out and do not offer it a a complete cage kit anymore and it is very expensive to build the kit from scratch.

    The kit used to be about $50. Not it is $140 and sold out!
    http://www.dollarhobbyz.com/collecti...s-tire-carrier

    I still check online every once in a while, but have not found one yet.

    One of these days...
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  5. #5
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    Hardest part is going to be getting 2.2s on a Slash/Pede arm assembly. Most 2.2s wont clear the turning bits on 4x4. If I'm not mistaken, these had an offset that will work without modification, though they will stick out a little on the sides. Shouldn't be an issue if you are going for a cage look. http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/shop/wh...ide-wheelbase/ I'm probably going to use them on my future Slash Crawler project.

    Another thing I've been researching is hacking up a rear shock tower to fit on the front so you can run full length rear shocks all the way around.

    Probably want to go with a HCG Slash Chassis for clearance and looks.

    I'd make some diffs with 500k in them, though that will make her turn like a battleship on the track, lol.

    Here is some motivation...
    https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...aith-cage-pt-2

    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post
    I wanted to get the Yeti cage when DollarHobbys had it. They sold out and do not offer it a a complete cage kit anymore and it is very expensive to build the kit from scratch.

    The kit used to be about $50. Not it is $140 and sold out!
    http://www.dollarhobbyz.com/collecti...s-tire-carrier

    I still check online every once in a while, but have not found one yet.

    One of these days...
    Check out the salvage yard at RPP Hobby occasionally. http://www.rpphobby.com/category_s/407.htm

    I used to shop there a lot when I was into scalers...sometimes they have some real gems for sale pretty cheap in the "junk yard". I still buy parts from them, super fast shipping and reasonable prices on many things.
    Last edited by elDax; 03-03-2016 at 12:15 AM.
    Slash, Street Rally, 4x4 /Slash, Summit LT, Aton.

  6. #6
    RC Racer Sneetches's Avatar
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    Well elDax you've already pointed out one thing that I've been thinking about since I test fitted some wheels to the Pede. I have a lot of 2.2" crawler wheels and of course the only way to run those is to have an offset outside the wheel. I'm most likely going to run the truck with my 2.8" Badlands first just to see how I like them, and then go from there. Otherwise, I may pick up some 2.2/3.0" shortcourse wheels and use some spare 2.2" crawler tires and cut the inner sidewalls to fit the inner 3.0"

    You also got the diffs, I'm going to try 500k / 500k and see how that goes. I may try 500k / 1 mill (rear) if I need a little extra locked feeling. This thing is primarily going to be hill climbing and trailing so I'm not worried about pinpoint track handling.

    I've also been thinking about the longer shocks up front for more downtravel, but I haven't put much thought into it yet.

    On the list to do:

    - Bearings: Truck needs all new bearings since I've been running them since I built it a year ago. I have to check different sizes since a typical kit won't work, my Tekno hubs use bigger sizes than stock and so does the King Headz mount.

    - Diffs need rebuilt with 500k

    - Shocks need rebuilt, maybe get Big Bores.

    - Lots of electrical things...figure out my lighting and resolder some stuff.
    Last edited by Sneetches; 03-03-2016 at 12:34 AM.

  7. #7
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    maybe you wanna try to check the telluride4x4 forums. i gues there are some info you can get from there for 2.2 tires and wheels

  8. #8
    RC Racer Sneetches's Avatar
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    I'm aware of running the 2.2" wheels but I don't know if I want to put that much leverage on the axles. I do plan on using 4S here and having wheels offset past the inner rim is a lot of extra strain, especially when this thing will probably take some rolls down 50+ ft hill climbs lol. I just wish there was a shortcourse tire that was 5.25"+ tall, but alas.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sneetches View Post
    I'm aware of running the 2.2" wheels but I don't know if I want to put that much leverage on the axles. I do plan on using 4S here and having wheels offset past the inner rim is a lot of extra strain, especially when this thing will probably take some rolls down 50+ ft hill climbs lol. I just wish there was a shortcourse tire that was 5.25"+ tall, but alas.

    I have also been looking into running 2.8s with Badlands...check these out?


    http://www.amazon.com/Proline-Badlan...s=2.8+badlands

    No clue what the total diameter would be, looks like there is an inch on either side of the rim so maybe 4.8 inches? They look pretty beefy, and I know 2.8s will clear the "turny bits" without an offset that will stress your bearings.

    EDIT: Never mind, looks like you are already running 2.8s, lol. How they work out?
    Last edited by elDax; 03-03-2016 at 12:39 PM.
    Slash, Street Rally, 4x4 /Slash, Summit LT, Aton.

  10. #10
    RC Racer Sneetches's Avatar
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    The 2.8" Badlands are about 5" tall. I don't know how the 2.8"s will look yet on this project since I have the LCG chassis and HCG coming in so I'm debating what to actually use.

    I know the default answer seems like HCG but I have a feeling the LCG will still work out fine, but I will simply have to use both and see. To keep it easy for now, I'll use the HCG since it's a direct drop in and minimal effort, but that comes in tomorrow.

    Other assorted parts coming in:

    VG Racing chassis brace
    Hot Racing Slash 4x4 steering rack/bellcrank

    Still undecided on what Yeti panels to use...

  11. #11
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    Your kingz heads motor mount for the lcg won't work on your hgc.

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    I love this. I'm in the middle of a very similar build! I currently have putty in the diffs, crawler tires mounted on 2.2/3.0 beadlocks with double rings for some added weight. Traxxas telescoping cvds, King headz, and telluride bumpers. I'm running a rear tower up front and rear gtr shocks all around. I have several motor options, and a few sensored, but I'm going to try my Losi 2800 first. It's pretty torquey, and supposedly castle's new mmx is sensored smooth (almost) even with a sensorless motor.
    Last edited by mwe-maxxowner; 03-03-2016 at 04:48 PM.
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  13. #13
    RC Racer Sneetches's Avatar
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    I forgot to include the King Headz LCG mount as part of the "coming in" list, but yes I saw that and ordered it after tearing apart my bulkheads and looking at the LCG kit's motor mount.

    Quote Originally Posted by mwe-maxxowner View Post
    I love this. I'm in the middle of a very similar build! I currently have putty in the diffs, crawler tires mounted on 2.2/3.0 beadlocks with double rings for some added weight. Traxxas telescoping cvds, King headz, and telluride bumpers. I'm running a rear tower up front and rear gtr shocks all around. I have several motor options, and a few sensored, but I'm going to try my Losi 2800 first. It's pretty torquey, and supposedly castle's new mmx is sensored smooth (almost) even with a sensorless motor.
    Sounds good, I just have some questions. How does it handle? Do you figure the extra travel in the front shocks is worth it? Lastly, did you have to cut your tires or stretch the inner rim onto the 3.0" size?
    Last edited by Sneetches; 03-03-2016 at 04:58 PM.

  14. #14
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    I think I solved my body problems! That's the hardest part of this build in my mind. Getting a slash to look even kinda scale.
    I'm just going to fit some body panels to this... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=A2HUFQYBB8LM3

    Look at the pictures the one guy has in his review.
    Slash, Street Rally, 4x4 /Slash, Summit LT, Aton.

  15. #15
    RC Racer Sneetches's Avatar
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    I'm unsure of the Integy cage. From the pics it's too long for my desired look and I'd imagine the Yeti 380 cage is much lighter than steel tubing (not sure if Integy uses tubing or rod on theirs). Otherwise, I have lights that specifically fit the Yeti cage as well, which I'll post pics of.

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Don't forget about VG-Racing:


    http://www.vgracing.com/product/Slas...Roll_Cage.html

    Just remember that this is made of 3/16 steel!
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sneetches View Post
    I forgot to include the King Headz LCG mount as part of the "coming in" list, but yes I saw that and ordered it after tearing apart my bulkheads and looking at the LCG kit's motor mount.



    Sounds good, I just have some questions. How does it handle? Do you figure the extra travel in the front shocks is worth it? Lastly, did you have to cut your tires or stretch the inner rim onto the 3.0" size?
    The truck is in final stages of modification (I don't consider it a "build", I've had the truck a long time and it has been short course truck, monster truck, buggy, and monster buggy lol), so I haven't gotten to try the rear shocks up front mod yet. Basically I'll just get more uptravel, I think. May not be worth while. I might be better off to use rear shocks up front with the stock tower for more potential down travel so I can set more droop. I might try it both ways.

    Modifying the tires is easy peasy. Basically, you'll wind up trimming the bead off the inside. That makes it almost perfect. I did it the first couple times with an xaxto knife, but used scissors this last time. Scissors is definitely easier. Especially curved lexan scissors. I have a thread on it somewhere with pictures. I'll see if I can find it.


    I had a telluride set up identically except with front shocks up front, and I really liked it. Bashed well, crawled decently. But I found with higher speed bashing the short chassis was holding me back. So I've decided to build up a Slash in similar fashion, and bust out the short chassis when I actually get to a rocky bash spot.
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sneetches View Post
    I'm unsure of the Integy cage. From the pics it's too long for my desired look and I'd imagine the Yeti 380 cage is much lighter than steel tubing (not sure if Integy uses tubing or rod on theirs). Otherwise, I have lights that specifically fit the Yeti cage as well, which I'll post pics of.
    I'm pretty sure the Integy is rod, not tubing. I know people hate them, but as long as it isn't a moving part, I have had decent luck with Integy. Now if it moves, I won't touch them, lol.

    I agree, though, you are going for a rock racer so lighter is better. I'm leaning towards rock crawler...so weight is not a factor for me at all.

    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post
    Don't forget about VG-Racing:

    Just remember that this is made of 3/16 steel!
    Nice! If I was using a cage for strength I would definitely go this route. I'm looking to attach body panels to it, in an effort to make a scale looking crawler truck. The VG lacks the lower parts that I would need for my panels. I figured the Integy cage would be easier than hacking up an Axial cage of some sort.


    Such a cool thread, I'll stop de-railing it, lol.
    Slash, Street Rally, 4x4 /Slash, Summit LT, Aton.

  19. #19
    RC Racer Sneetches's Avatar
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    No problem, time for some pics because this "build" thread is sorely lacking so far lol.

    Some things to ignore: Badlands with different offsets (these are from my 2wd Slash), no panels on body, cage isn't mounted yet.





    And here are the lights that I want to use for the front. I don't have the light buckets for the rear of the cage yet.






    Otherwise, getting bearing measurements tonight and then redoing the diffs.

  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Very Nice! I still want to make one with the Yeti cage, but I don't know if I'll do it for $140.
    For now, I'll just use my Rally cage:

    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  21. #21
    RC Racer Sneetches's Avatar
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    Well I tore the whole thing down and was a bit surprised at the trucks condition to be honest...

    For one, my diffs looked like brand new. I had run at least 10 packs of 4S and easily 40 or so of 3S through the truck and I literally couldn't see a mark on the front nor the rear's pinon/spur. Pretty surprising considering I never touched them since I got the truck as a roller 2 years ago.

    The bearings were all in decent condition but I went ahead and measured everything and then had to go pick out my own from Avid since I have larger bearings in the rear axle carriers and steering blocks (Tekno plastic parts). Waiting for those to come in now.

    Gonna dunk all the parks in simple green and wash everything off that I can. I'll polish up the kingpins and the Tekno axles as well.

    Otherwise, I'm now looking at body mounting options that still keep the hinging ability, and I have an idea...

  22. #22
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    I think the Slash's drive line is very well built, aside from the stock shafts! So you are building yours LCG? I found with my LCG that it was awesome at blasting up steep hills with 2.8 Badlands, almost like a FOFFer. It'll be a good choice for a rock racer style build.

    I love the look with a Yeti cage. I've also seen it done with an exo cage. I'd like to do it, but have yet to find an option that I feel makes sense economically. (I know I know, we spend hundreds on tiny toy cars &#128539
    Last edited by mwe-maxxowner; 03-04-2016 at 08:59 AM.
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  23. #23
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Don't forget Michaelsjo's SCX10 Deadbolt:


    https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...h-Trail-Thingy

    and

    BombShellRC's EXO Terra:



    https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...ighlight=terra
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  24. #24
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    BombShellRC's exo terra is one of my favorite builds. It's on a level of detail and perfection that the WarBaja of squeegies is

  25. #25
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    I love Bombshell's rig.
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  26. #26
    RC Racer Sneetches's Avatar
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    Here's my first "rough draft" of the body mount. I plan to remake this later with 6061 aluminum but for now I just needed a proof of concept, and 2nd will be getting the right measurements with a styrene copy, then finally make the final draft in aluminum.

    The idea is to use the SCX10 body mount from the cage parts and bolt it to the rear, and then sandwich the shock tower with 2 plates to hold it in place. ABS plastic should also work fine for this because it's pretty strong and flexible to an extent, which is what this current version is. My only hope is that either 1) The rear shock tower can withstand this, and 2) The thin plastic body mount can hold up to harsh rollovers and abuse. Again, this isn't the final version, which will have the body posts held in more securely than two 6mm screws lol.




  27. #27
    RC Racer Sneetches's Avatar
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    Parts are rolling in and hopefully I can have the truck ready for testing this weekend + video.

    VG Racing LCG brace, Avid bearings, and HR steering rack are all in. Waiting on Yeti body panels and steering rack bearings. I was trying to pull one off the post and crushed it, so now I have to wait on the spare to come in...

  28. #28
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    Finally got the rest of the parts for near-completion in so I went ahead and did a 2nd mock up last night.

    I went with internal panels to keep the tube work shown. I also like the aluminum because I think it should help brace the cage better, and removing stickers shouldn't be an issue.

    500K front / rear in the diffs. Avid bearings all throughout.













    ---

    The last big hurdle seems to be the rear bumper situation. I have a large 1/8" thick sheet of delrin coming in and will attempt to fabricate my own, as nothing I've seen so far has satisfied my requirements for the rear. I need a rear bumper (that isn't full length for clearance) that protects the overhanging cage, otherwise there will be undue stress on the cage mount if that rear end snags during crashes.

  29. #29
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    That is sick. Well played.

    Have you looked at the Rally rear bumper? It's basically a tube frame to protect the rear diff, very minimalist.

    Here it is on my backslash...

    Slash, Street Rally, 4x4 /Slash, Summit LT, Aton.

  30. #30
    RC Champion traxxasfan21's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post
    I wanted to get the Yeti cage when DollarHobbys had it. They sold out and do not offer it a a complete cage kit anymore and it is very expensive to build the kit from scratch.

    The kit used to be about $50. Not it is $140 and sold out!
    http://www.dollarhobbyz.com/collecti...s-tire-carrier

    I still check online every once in a while, but have not found one yet.

    One of these days...
    This might be of interest to you: http://m.ebay.com/itm/1-10-Axial-Yet...669?nav=SEARCH
    Too much power is just enough

  31. #31
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Thanks, but I actually got one recently. Don't know when I'll have time to put it together. I have other things I want to do to my rig before I work on that cage... More parts for my bin.
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  32. #32
    RC Racer Sneetches's Avatar
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    Apparently the rally bumper is just the wheelie bar without the wheelie parts lol.

    I ran the truck low speed / crawling for a bit in the basement. It actually does well enough but cogs a lot of course and doesn't have the belly clearance the HCG would have. Otherwise this is still the to-do list:

    -Waiting on front offset wheels to fix the front width (only have the narrow wheels at the moment and they're rubbing the a-arm skids)
    -Yeti interior? Covers the ugly open spot in body.
    -Side skirts to cover the gap between the cage / LCG chassis
    -Rear bumper
    -Battery mounting in LCG? I can't fit my 3S 5000 pack and my 2S 5000 hardcase barely fits...Needs to be way higher, like at least 3-5mm higher.

    One more glamour shot, still a ways to go in the looks department. My front bumper LEDs all have broken wires as well unfortunately, so I'd have to fix that.


  33. #33
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    I started mounting mine with 3m dual lock a long time ago. I don't even know where the hold downs are.
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  34. #34
    RC Racer Sneetches's Avatar
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    I went ahead and ordered the "tall" Rally LCG hold down, apparently it's way taller to accommodate 3S packs. Also decided to get a Yeti interior to cover the center.

    Otherwise, I ran the truck on 2S for some testing. It's a drag only because 2800kv and geared 11/54, obviously the truck is not supposed to shine here. Despite that, I put a pack through it and I'd say it's pretty fun. I do not intend for this to be a serious rock crawler, but rather a trail truck that can navigate some obstacles if needed.

    First note - LCG of course gets hung up on obstacles, but majority of the time I can still throttle out of it. If it keeps happening then I'll switch back to the HCG chassis, however I love the "on rails" feeling the LCG has when handling.

    2nd - 500k diff oil feels lighter than expected in this truck. I may have to switch to 1 million in the rear to get that extra push over obstacles, but I may switch to the HCG first to test.

    3rd - My rear body mount actually held up so far. I purposefully lawn darted / roof landed several times from my jump and so far so good. The rear is styrene but I'll just remake it in ABS that I used for the front body plate, since when doubled up it's pretty strong but slightly flexible.





  35. #35
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    Even silly putty gets loose ish. I highly recommend just going to putty. The goal for your rig is exactly what I'm building mine to.

    I'd love to run a Yeti cage, but it's soooo expensive! Looks AWESOME though.
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  36. #36
    RC Racer Sneetches's Avatar
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    Well I have very good news in that both the Slash and my Rear body mount held up despite some hard abuse in the worst way for a body: repeated rollovers and roof smacks. The thing also flies up my test hills like a bullet until something stops it, and is capable of going super far, despite the LCG chassis.

    Ignore my Yeti XL in the picture, the same picture applies to the Slash because I couldn't quite get over that lip yet with it either. I'll say it gets there pretty quickly and easier than the 1/8th scale rig though.





    The rig (and my body mount in this case) also survived a couple dozen rollovers over the course of 3 battery packs. I geared up to 15/54 to give myself a chance on the climbs on 2S. The crashes are pretty violent, which I hope to get some video of soon, so for now just imagine the thing rolling over starting at that arrow on the 50 incline. I've tried to count the cartwheels but there's too many and it simply does them so fast that it's a blur lol. For reference, I was hitting the rocks so hard at the bottom of one climb (not pictured) that it was putting small dents in the aluminum panels themselves. I also think the panels help brace the cage in the case of flat roof landings/smacks while rolling.

    Either way, I'm very impressed with the performance so far. I will probably get another differential or two and fill one with "diff-lock" putty and the other with 1-2 mill oil, and then experiment. I may also try the HCG chassis out as well, but will probably pick up sway bars to go with that. Either way, expect a video here sometime soon detailing the mount and some hill climb carnage...

  37. #37
    RC Racer Sneetches's Avatar
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    I still have some things to do:

    -Paint Yeti interior / install radiator
    -Redo rear body mount in delrin or abs
    -Fix Front LEDs
    -Install Rear LEDs
    -Inner fenders to hide chassis
    -Lock diffs?


    One thing I'm still unsure of is whether to try the shortcourse tire w/ 5.5" tire or not. It will give me extra clearance but I'll have to figure out the foams and also the tires will rub on the Yeti cage at full lock. The 5" Badlands are essentially the perfect size and I don't mind since they perform just as well as I'd like.

    I also still have yet to try the HCG chassis, but I will wait until my diff lock comes in for that. Right now crawling is not a priority and hill climbs are. I will not rest until I make this hill for now:


  38. #38
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Keep the updates coming... Looks great so far!

    What light kit did you get for the rear? Are you building your own?
    Are you putting LEDs in the 4 stock rear light buckets on the cage?
    Last edited by Squeegie; 03-15-2016 at 01:40 PM.
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  39. #39
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sneetches View Post
    I still have some things to do:

    -Paint Yeti interior / install radiator
    -Redo rear body mount in delrin or abs
    -Fix Front LEDs
    -Install Rear LEDs
    -Inner fenders to hide chassis
    -Lock diffs?


    One thing I'm still unsure of is whether to try the shortcourse tire w/ 5.5" tire or not. It will give me extra clearance but I'll have to figure out the foams and also the tires will rub on the Yeti cage at full lock. The 5" Badlands are essentially the perfect size and I don't mind since they perform just as well as I'd like.

    I also still have yet to try the HCG chassis, but I will wait until my diff lock comes in for that. Right now crawling is not a priority and hill climbs are. I will not rest until I make this hill for now:

    For what it's worth, I LOVE running the g8 swampers on short course rims. The foams are easy to figure out. I took my truck out for a quick test run on 4s with them this past weekend. They are great!

    Badlands are hard to beat though.

    I also doubt that the hcg chassis would do you any good. I run them both. I have run them both off-road a good deal, and done some hill climbing with each. The benefits of your lcg on a hill far outweigh the ground clearance. Unless you are high centering and that's your issue. Of course the clearance at the diffs is the same anyhow.

    Have you tried any nose/front wheel weight?
    Last edited by mwe-maxxowner; 03-15-2016 at 02:05 PM.
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  40. #40
    RC Racer Sneetches's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mwe-maxxowner View Post
    For what it's worth, I LOVE running the g8 swampers on short course rims. The foams are easy to figure out. I took my truck out for a quick test run on 4s with them this past weekend. They are great!

    Badlands are hard to beat though.

    I also doubt that the hcg chassis would do you any good. I run them both. I have run them both off-road a good deal, and done some hill climbing with each. The benefits of your lcg on a hill far outweigh the ground clearance. Unless you are high centering and that's your issue. Of course the clearance at the diffs is the same anyhow.

    Have you tried any nose/front wheel weight?
    I'm gonna try to make a quickly removable weighted plate to stick on the front and then take off whenever I want to go back to normal jumping/driving.

    I also will keep the LCG for now, I just have to get used to the low clearance. I can plow up the climb in that picture but then driving around down the bottom occasionally gets me hung up in the ruts the dirt bikes make.

    Here's a video of the truck on the big hill. The camera doesn't do it justice, it's pretty intimidating in real life lol, but I was only on 2S geared 15/54 here so I will be back to test on 3S and hopefully 4S soon...

    http://vid300.photobucket.com/albums...psk3lngrvd.mp4

    Just imagine that many times over, since I did so many more climbs and roll overs that day. That's why I think this body mount is the ticket for now.
    Last edited by Sneetches; 03-15-2016 at 10:10 PM.

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