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  1. #1
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Jimbo74's Sl4sh LCG Build

    Teaser


  2. #2
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    What shocks are those?
    Have Fun and Drive Recklessly

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by invento123 View Post
    What shocks are those?
    HPI Vorza 97mm

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    Are they the same size as slash rear or front shocks?
    Have Fun and Drive Recklessly

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by invento123 View Post
    Are they the same size as slash rear or front shocks?
    They are in between the slash front and rears shocks @ 97mm. There is a long rod end so you can get a longer length but really isn't needed
    Here's the same shock jimbo has compared to a gtr front shock and proline's front shock

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    they are pretty close..... I will be running the same 97mm shocks all around... If memory serves, the slash uses different lengths, but is fine with the longer or shorter all around

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    I keep debating picking up a set of these for my slash build

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    I've almost pulled the trigger on a set of them as well.

    Looks great so far! Keep the build pics coming!
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    There will be a write-up eventually

    also, previous teaser pics will be removed, when a new one is updated

  10. #10
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    I keep debating buying these shocks. But I'm just so impressed with my GTRs that I haven't been able to justify it.

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    I have heard that the gtrs will pop the bottoms out as they are just clipped on...... that is why I got the Vorzas

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    How do you like the fitment of the Vorza front shocks? Did you get all 4 fronts?
    I thought most got the rear shocks. Did you want the extra height??
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    it is the same 97 mm all the way around, so far, they look awesome, I am going to use a stud though, that mounts all the way through the shock towers, and all the way through the a arms through the backside with a nut.. I just want extra security, and there will be a lot of washers, haha


    I almost have the whole truck built.... so pics should be up later


    I'm tired though, so maybe not

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    A lot of washers? Where you putting those at?

  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Maybe instead standoffs?

    I thought the rear shocks had the orange springs?
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    all over the place... I want to capture everything and spread the load out

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    build halted by an m3 washer.... hahahahahaha

    can't assemble my steering... I found 1......

    will try and get some from the hardware store tomorrow

    so..... here she is, mocked up





    Last edited by jimbo74; 03-05-2016 at 01:44 AM.

  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    ok, got it running, and my shocks dialed in.....

    a few issues,sounds like cogging, but it isn't sounds really funny in the rearend, not diff, maybe slipper or MIP related.... hard to explain it, it has the symptoms of cogging, but it sounds rough if that makes sense?

    it goes away at higher speeds






  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Truck is looking good there jimbo

  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo74 View Post
    ok, got it running, and my shocks dialed in.....

    a few issues,sounds like cogging, but it isn't sounds really funny in the rearend, not diff, maybe slipper or MIP related.... hard to explain it, it has the symptoms of cogging, but it sounds rough if that makes sense?

    it goes away at higher speeds





    Looks good! I have given thought to using those shocks. I think I read that they are not a direct bolt on. The truck looks great, good job!
    Member of the 10,000 + posts club! Here to help!

  21. #21
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    direct bolt on as to what? I did use some longer screws, and standoffs, but Adding a longer screw doesn't mean a modification to me....

    here it is.... I watched the video, and it sounds like normal cogging, it doesn't sound liek that in real life, at least not to me....

    and it does it only at the slightest bit of input.... also, I feel that my wires are getting warm, jsut with that little bit of bumping around in the video.... hmmmmm

    https://youtu.be/qC6vz65kmYY

    pretty sure my gear mesh is good, but... although, my gearing is high, its a 19/54 on 2s, 4300kv 4-pole 550-class

  22. #22
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Did you swap the rear springs?

    I'm still trying to figure out the Vorza system...

    I thought the 97mm front shocks had the white springs and the 112mm rear shocks had the orange springs.

    If you got the 97mm on all four corners, shouldn't the springs all be white?

    Please clarify for my sake...
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post
    Did you swap the rear springs?

    I'm still trying to figure out the Vorza system...

    I thought the 97mm front shocks had the white springs and the 112mm rear shocks had the orange springs.

    If you got the 97mm on all four corners, shouldn't the springs all be white?

    Please clarify for my sake...

    springs are springs, interchangeable for what ever you like... I own a grey set and a orange set, the orange are a higher rate, and I used them in back to fight some sag I had

    I have 97mm all around

    Big Bore Rear Shock Absorbers (Part # 67296 no extra pistons or hardware)
    Shock Caps (Part # 67433)
    Shock End, Retainer Set (Part # 67351)
    Shock Piston (Part # 67353 Partial)
    Washer (Part # 100553)
    Shock Shaft (Part # 67436)
    Shock Shaft Lock Nut (Part # 10551)
    Shock Bodies (Part # 67435)
    Shock Spring Adjuster Nut & Washer (Part # 67528)
    Shock Washer Set (Part # 67515 Partial)
    Shock Bottom Caps (Part # 67529)
    Shock Boots (Part # 67350 Partial)
    Factory Assembled & Filled with Oil

    the front and rear are the same as far as springs go.. 60mm, I just have a set of grey and a set of orange

  24. #24
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Thanks for the clarification.
    I thought you purchased preassembled shocks so I got mixed up with the spring colors.
    I did not know you had different sets of springs.

    Still thinking of doing this mod.

    Too many ideas running through my head...
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  25. #25
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Traxxas Slash 4x4 LCG chassis Black RIT dyed
    Traxxas blue aluminum caster blocks, steering blocks and rear hubs
    RPM A Arms
    Swaybars
    Kingheadz Motor mount
    Traxxas blue aluminum bearing adapter
    XO1 Diffs, front 1 Million cst oil, rear 100k oil
    Rear MIP CVDs
    HPI Vorza shocks
    Pro-Line body mounts with thumb screws
    Generic SCT wheels/tires from Gool RC
    VG racing chassis brace
    Revo slipper plate with aluminum pads
    Dynamite SS screw kit
    Snappy RC MMP mount
    MMP
    Neewer 4300kv, 550-class, 4-pole
    lipo batteries - 2s
    Power HD DC-1217MG servo
    Fast Eddy Bearing set

    haha, I swear I was more modified than that.....

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post
    Thanks for the clarification.
    I thought you purchased preassembled shocks so I got mixed up with the spring colors.
    I did not know you had different sets of springs.

    Still thinking of doing this mod.

    Too many ideas running through my head...
    I did....

    so I compared the sets on dollarhobbyz..... the fronts and rears are the same except for the springs.... what I did was bought the 2 pairs of rears with the orange springs, and then bought the 2 pairs of grey springs separately.... here is why: the front pair, was $10 more expensive per pair, than the rears... So... I bought 2 pairs of rears, and bought a set of 4 grey springs also.

  27. #27
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Thanks again.

    I also saw that the part number were the same on the front and rears except the springs.
    I was thinking of getting the the rear (orange springs) all around since I am running a heavy 1/8 system.
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  28. #28
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    yeah, depending on how it runs, I might even run the orange up front with no pre-load.....

    oh yeah, so people said you have to use the Kyosho cups and something about shortended ends... I didn't.... I tried the Kyosho cups, and it didn't do anything I saw... So they are in a parts bin now.....

    need to get it out and running, but the ground is still wet outside.... and I am lazy, haha

    can you watch my video above? the clunkyness bugs me, I will say, that there doesn't appear to be anything binding, and when it coasts, it just keeps rolling for awhile, it isn't abruptly stopping

  29. #29
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Thanks.

    I watched your video and couldn't really narrow it down.
    Doesn't really sound like cogging. Doesn't really sound like slipper slipping. Doesn't' really sound like loose mesh.
    Should at least check the obvious slipper and mesh, but I don't know.
    Hopefully someone with more knowledge can chime in...
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  30. #30
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    I have only the orange springs at the moment but will eventually get some collection.

    Like you jumbo74, I am trying to shorten the front without cutting anything, I will try with rod ends and also readjustng the placement on the shock tower as well as the arm"

    I can already imagine how well i performs on the jumps.

    By the way do you guys know the enchance kit for the D8 part number, i found it the other day , and now I cannot seem to remembre where and what was the name or number, similar to the dampening kit I think,
    Live life to the fullest

  31. #31
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    no, not like me, I did not shorten the front, I do not want it shorter

    It is on there full length and if just fine. My ride height is at about the exact middle of the full extension and full stuff, perfectly where I want it


    I just ran it outside, man this thing is fast.. it is sure footed, and I didn't roll it, and was doing some aggressive slalom driving, but it feels so twitchy, and the slightest input will send it another direction, it's like a laser guided missile.... also, it is so fast, that the tires spin while going forward I guess, but still stays pointed where I aim it for the most part

    definitely needs some work.... Also noticed that if I flip the front body mount around, I can probably use my Arrma Mojave body, lol -- but the rear posts are so huge, that I can't lower them enough to clear my camber links and not have the tail of the body 4" high



    that noise is still there.... can't figure out what it is.... only at low speed is it there... one I give it more throttle, it appears fine

  32. #32
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    so, I DigiHud it, and I got to 41 mph, not full speed though, as it needs more tweaking

    also, here is a running video.... at the end, you can hear the issue, it sounds like a gear crucnhing I* guess... thsi is from forward to reverse to forward, and back and forth

    https://youtu.be/UiCbElin_F8

  33. #33
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Cool video. With your chassis bottomed out, are the shocks fully compressed? I assume they aren't bottoming out? Is there room to compress if you land ****-eyed on one wheel?

    I'm moving to use GTR rear shocks all around, but have to use a rear shock tower on the front for proper compression distance.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  34. #34
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    where it bottoms out depends on where I have the shock mounted... a lot of people neglect tuning, and jsut think there is something wrong. I will say, the body on those shocks as well as the shafts/bores are a lot larger than the GTR or Ultras..... a much larger shaft is going to resist bending a lot more than a smaller shaft

  35. #35
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  36. #36
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo74 View Post
    where it bottoms out depends on where I have the shock mounted... a lot of people neglect tuning, and jsut think there is something wrong.
    I agree 100%. I think stock front GTR shocks are ~85mm eyelet to eyelet, and so 97mm would pretty much require running on one of the outer 3 A-arm holes to prevent bottoming out. Probably a hole you would want to use anyway for more progressive side loading in corners.

    I find there is just so little room shock tower to A-arm, that going to a taller shock tower should allow more shock mounting flexibility for droop and compression distance as well as shock angle.

    I will say, the body on those shocks as well as the shafts/bores are a lot larger than the GTR or Ultras..... a much larger shaft is going to resist bending a lot more than a smaller shaft
    I haven't bent a 3.5mm shock shaft yet on the GTRs, but I only run 2S.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  37. #37
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    I am currently running the middle of the top on both towers and the middle of the arms "outer 3" on all arms

    I still need to do a lot more tuning, but really like where it is at right now

  38. #38
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post
    Did you swap the rear springs?

    I'm still trying to figure out the Vorza system...

    I thought the 97mm front shocks had the white springs and the 112mm rear shocks had the orange springs.

    If you got the 97mm on all four corners, shouldn't the springs all be white?

    Please clarify for my sake...
    The 112mm are vorza's optional rear shocks that needs the optional rear shock tower they use 76mm tall springs. I ran them on my pede lol not recommended for either pede or slash. When in turns you can hear the Mips bind up I thought it was a diff issue. Grey springs are fronts and orange are rears with same length shocks. (Jimbo mentioned this I know)
    As for springs and your vehicle orange maybe the way to go. Or just like how jimbo is set up now. Grey up front orange in back. That's how I had mine set up with a 2650 and 2200 on 3s. They have 68mm tall springs that I also have a few sets of them since going to a heavier vehicle 6s a lot of mods aluminum stuff I needed stiffer springs

    Quote Originally Posted by Jezza View Post
    I have only the orange springs at the moment but will eventually get some collection.

    Like you jumbo74, I am trying to shorten the front without cutting anything, I will try with rod ends and also readjustng the placement on the shock tower as well as the arm"

    I can already imagine how well i performs on the jumps.

    By the way do you guys know the enchance kit for the D8 part number, i found it the other day , and now I cannot seem to remembre where and what was the name or number, similar to the dampening kit I think,
    There's a few ways to lower the fronts if you want. Rcshortcourse has a sticky thread in the slash section that goes over this. Cut the rod ends 3/16 off and drill through it and thread the shaft back in till it hits the ball then back it off so the ball can move freely then use the kyosho lower retainer cups. I have done this and I have put limiters in my fronts to get it lower for my speed rig.
    Last edited by Er33; 03-06-2016 at 07:08 PM.

  39. #39
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    I still can't figure out what the crunchy noise is.... nothing appears to be damaged, and it's coming from the rear end..

  40. #40
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Sounds like you're skipping teeth on something, not spur->pinion, but more like metal->metal. I would guess rear diff->gear or driveshaft->coupler. Motor is still spinning/braking, but wheels continue at a different rate and not 1:1 like they should be.

    Maybe driveshaft->rear coupler has too much back and forth play, so it can come out of the driveshaft?
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

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