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  1. #121
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    If you have too much droop but are happy with everything else, then put some shock limiters on inside the shocks. Or move the shocks outward on the arms, but this will have some other effects too complicated to explain right now.

    Or get the rear shock tower like I've mentioned 9,824,729,347 times before.

    But I just noticed you can't use the inner camber link holes on the rear shock tower, so
    Last edited by RazorRC22; 04-08-2016 at 01:08 AM.
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  2. #122
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    so i tried the rear tower on the front, and it made my tower lay down, a lot.... wasn't happy about that angle....


    I don't want to limit the travel, it has a perfect mix of up and down... just something else isn't right, I shouldn't be destroying the inside edge of the tire so quick.....

  3. #123
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    If you push down the front of your car, you'll notice the front tires tilt inward the more you push them down. If you lift the car, the tires tilt outward and will be riding on the outside of the tires. This is called camber gain and is controlled by the camber link position on the front shock tower.

    Since you're wearing out the insides, this wear is occurring during braking/cornering when the front suspension compresses and the wheels tilt inward and your car is riding on the insides of the tires. That's why your wear isn't even. From your earlier pics, it looks like you have the camber link on the outside holes of the front tower which is for maximum camber gain. You don't want that.

    If you move them to the inside (like I've mentioned 2x already!?!?!), you'll have more linear camber gain and the wheels won't tilt so much under compression/extension.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  4. #124
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    my camber links are mounted to the lower inside holes.....


  5. #125
    RC Champion thesmogman's Avatar
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    Hey Jimbo,

    Raising the inner camber links will limit your camber gain, I run the top inner on mine. When I lift the front the tires go slight positive camber and full compression slight negative. At ride height I would say about 1 degree of camber if that.

    I have also found that throughout the suspension cycle I was going from toe in to toe out and I put two small washers on the steering linkage where it attaches to the hub. Now I hardly have any difference with toe out.

    Where are you mounting the bottom of the shocks? Mine are in the hole just inside the three holes or the fourth hole in.
    Slash 4x4 Tekin RX8GenII w/Pro4 4300hd

  6. #126
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    shocks are all the way inboard on top and all the way out on the bottom

  7. #127
    RC Champion thesmogman's Avatar
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    So basically you are running a rear size shock in front. OK. I tried this with the big bores and there just is not enough room to use all the shock. I noticed that the up travel was keeping the chassis from bottoming out because of the length of the shock bodies. I am running the front GTR's in front now so I understand where you are at.

    Like Razor said you can limit droop by putting a washer or two inside the shock but that is all you have for adjustment unless you go to a shorter bodied shock. I use a roll of two inch tape to set my droop. I set the truck on it and the tires are just off the ground both front and rear.
    Slash 4x4 Tekin RX8GenII w/Pro4 4300hd

  8. #128
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    so it doesn't seem liek I have too much, or too little suspension action, and I really like the way it handles, but It bugs me that the inside of the tires are already bald, and these things are practically new.....

    My chassis can bottom out with the amount of travel I have

  9. #129
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    It should be fairly easy to figure out when it's wearing out, either during braking or cornering and then you can figure out how to fix it.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  10. #130
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    it is one or the other or both.... I do drive very aggressively.... or it could be something completely different...

    Not too sure where to proceed at this point, limiting travel is going to make it so I don't have any travel...

  11. #131
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Post pics of the front of your car with the front end pushed down.

    Then post pics of the same thing but with the wheels turned to one side.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  12. #132
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    so this one is actually, forcefully maxxed out but still with tire contact

    Last edited by jimbo74; 04-08-2016 at 06:58 PM.

  13. #133
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Things that will help:

    - The front ride height looks a little tall, you could lower it to arms level and re-adjust static camber at rest. This will reduce your overall camber when front is compressed as well.

    - Reducing front end dive:
    • - stiffer springs
    • - thicker oil
    • - reducing rear droop (more shock limiters, move rear shocks out on the arms)


    - Reducing body roll
    • - front sway bars
    • - lower inner camber link
    • - raise outer camber link location
    • - stiffer springs, thicker oil


    There might be something you can do with bumpsteer, not sure.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  14. #134
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    i don't have body roll, I do have all the things mentioned, I like the way it handles, maybe the pictures don't do it justice, but the arms are flat or just slightly above

    the springs are pretty stiff, and there is 35w oil in the shocks that are from the Vorza

    The shocks damped great, and the handling is great, ride height is exactly where I want it, but the front tires are going bald on the insides....

    and as far as too much travel, there really isn't.....

  15. #135
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo74 View Post


    Everything looks pretty sorted to me. This picture got me thinking though...

    What diff fluid are you running up front? I wonder if the inside wheel is "diffing" out when you turn? I take it a lot of this is on pavement?
    Slash, Street Rally, 4x4 /Slash, Summit LT, Aton.

  16. #136
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    I do a lot of pavement driving, I do have 1m up front

  17. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo74 View Post
    I do a lot of pavement driving, I do have 1m up front

    Ah, well if you are running 1m up front, that pretty much blows up my idea of diff unloading.

    Now I'm going to go in the other direction, maybe you're scrubbing. Not a technical term, but if you have ever left your truck in 4wd and took a turn on pavement you know what I mean. They don't care for that, now multiply that by the scale speed of 150mph in 4wd doing donuts...

    You may just have to learn to rotate them.
    Slash, Street Rally, 4x4 /Slash, Summit LT, Aton.

  18. #138
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    can't rotate at this point, running 2 different sets of tires on it... I stripped one wheel, and ripped the hub through another on the other set

  19. #139
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo74 View Post
    I do a lot of pavement driving, I do have 1m up front
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  20. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    he was asking what diff oil I ran

  21. #141
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Things that will help:

    • put a reasonable diff oil in your front diff so your diff actually does something
    • put a reasonable diff oil in your front diff so your diff actually does something
    • put a reasonable diff oil in your front diff so your diff actually does something
    • put a reasonable diff oil in your front diff so your diff actually does something
    • put a reasonable diff oil in your front diff so your diff actually does something
    • put a reasonable diff oil in your front diff so your diff actually does something
    • put a reasonable diff oil in your front diff so your diff actually does something
    • put a reasonable diff oil in your front diff so your diff actually does something
    • put a reasonable diff oil in your front diff so your diff actually does something
    • put a reasonable diff oil in your front diff so your diff actually does something
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  22. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    Things that will help:

    • put a reasonable diff oil in your front diff so your diff actually does something
    • put a reasonable diff oil in your front diff so your diff actually does something
    • put a reasonable diff oil in your front diff so your diff actually does something
    • put a reasonable diff oil in your front diff so your diff actually does something
    • put a reasonable diff oil in your front diff so your diff actually does something
    • put a reasonable diff oil in your front diff so your diff actually does something
    • put a reasonable diff oil in your front diff so your diff actually does something
    • put a reasonable diff oil in your front diff so your diff actually does something
    • put a reasonable diff oil in your front diff so your diff actually does something
    • put a reasonable diff oil in your front diff so your diff actually does something
    Yes. This is where I would start at

    Jimbo you know already I have same shocks I also drive on pavement all the time. Even before speed got to me. I run 60wt diff up front and 100 in rear. I also run 70-80 wt shock oil. I run thicker cause theres 6 or 8 holes in the piston compared to 2 holes in stock or 2/4 in the gtrs. None of my tires wore out on the inside.

  23. #143
    RC Champion thesmogman's Avatar
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    From your pic's Jimbo it look's like you have a little toe-out for number 1. I start at a hair toe-in because of the looseness in the steering pieces, and number 2 you need to move the inner camber link up. This will give you less camber movement.
    You all know that I favor lighter diff oil's, right now I have been running 30K front and 7K rear and I like it for my pavement run's.
    I would also straighten up the front tires so that you have very little static camber at ride height.
    When you turn the wheel the angle of the hub's give you all the camber you need. Turn the wheels and apply pressure toward the way the body would roll and you will see this. (Ackerman effect)
    I have 6 batteries on my new pair of tires and all are wearing evenly. When I took them off to oil the bearings I could not tell which ones were on the front or rear.
    Hopes this helps you out
    Slash 4x4 Tekin RX8GenII w/Pro4 4300hd

  24. #144
    RC Champion thesmogman's Avatar
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    I was just thinking..... With that heavy weight diff oil your tires are being abused because you need to have diff action when cornering. The outside tire spins faster than the inside tire and this might be the reason your fronts are wearing out quickly. They are fighting each other when cornering and they are trying to keep the same speed.
    Slash 4x4 Tekin RX8GenII w/Pro4 4300hd

  25. #145
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    Quote Originally Posted by elDax View Post
    Ah, well if you are running 1m up front, that pretty much blows up my idea of diff unloading.

    Now I'm going to go in the other direction, maybe you're scrubbing. Not a technical term, but if you have ever left your truck in 4wd and took a turn on pavement you know what I mean. They don't care for that, now multiply that by the scale speed of 150mph in 4wd doing donuts...

    You may just have to learn to rotate them.
    There an echo in here, lol
    Slash, Street Rally, 4x4 /Slash, Summit LT, Aton.

  26. #146
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Drop your camber rods to the lower hole of the caster block so they run as close to parallel with the drive axles as possible.
    This isn't a 4wd but is this what your trying to achieve?
    I haven't read the hold thread so sorry if I missed something.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]
    Notice in pic one and two how the camber rod and axle run parallel.
    Your fronts will act the same way.
    Yours are way off.
    Last edited by billy-bones; 04-09-2016 at 02:27 PM. Reason: Added a pic
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  27. #147
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Not sure why my pic disappeared but let me try again.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]
    The point is the front works the same way if you want the most tire contact at all times.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  28. #148
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    razor, can you explain why only the insides are gone, rather than the whole tire be gone if it is the fault of the diff fluid?


    i run a rear spool on my 2wd, and the tires on it are bald, but they are bald, all the way across

  29. #149
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    I think there are two basic things going on here:

    1. Your essentially locked front diff doesn't allow the tires to rotate at different speeds when going around a corner. One of them is going to wear excessively trying to keep up with the other. If you were only driving in a straight line back and forth, there wouldn't be a problem, but you are drifting and sliding around. You say you like the way it drives -- since your front diff is basically locked, you must be sliding around to actually get the truck to corner decently and not constantly push.

    2. When you go around a corner, the outside wheel loads and weight transfers to the outside. As the weight transfers to the outside, that outside shock compresses, and because of the camber link, the outside wheel loses camber and tilts inward. That's why I asked you to take a pic of the front compressed with the wheel turned -- you can see the inward camber the outside wheel gets.

    1+2 at the same time means a lot of wear on the inside of the tires. You're getting a lot of wear because of the diff, and the times it is wearing the most is drifting around corners when the tires are tilted.

    I don't know why you have 1M wt. oil in your front diff.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  30. #150
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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  31. #151
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    also fixed my rear MIPS only the right side was in phase, now the left side is also

    I am working on getting some black dish wheels with street slicks and badland look tires from suprasales
    Last edited by jimbo74; 04-22-2016 at 02:37 AM.

  32. #152
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    and then there is this.....


  33. #153
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    just ordered some more stuff

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/131788559685...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/291167698882...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/231903957452...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


    and some black wheels for my arrma since I stripped out a stock chrome one on this beast -- got the black because it was like half the price of the chrome

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/390711480729...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

  34. #154
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    so I am wondering, is it possible I need thicker shock oil? would that help? the spring rate is great, but I just wonder if it would help to slow it down?


    If you watch my youtube vid, do you think it has too much movement?

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UiCbElin_F8

  35. #155
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    well, I thread locked the barrel nuts

    the badland knockoffs are taller than the SCT wheels, and they feel like they are softer than the slicks







    Last edited by jimbo74; 04-27-2016 at 12:56 AM.

  36. #156
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    You have been shopping! Looking good man!
    Slash, Street Rally, 4x4 /Slash, Summit LT, Aton.

  37. #157
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    yup, just waiting on my turnbuckle tool, my big bone, and my hex nut wrench.....

    I did just put the wheels on though with a 17mm open end wrench




    so. I don't know if I should make a post here or in the alley, but what is everyone using for their hex nut wrench? afaik the HR hex has the same dimensions as the xo1 hexes, with the spline

    I did order a traxxas oem plastic wrench, in the hopes that they wont get scratched up that way, but oe wrenches usually leave a lot to be desired
    Last edited by jimbo74; 04-27-2016 at 01:05 AM.

  38. #158
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    For the 17mm? I used a socket and a ratchet from the garage. Oddly, the lug nuts on my daily driver are 17mm, lol!
    Slash, Street Rally, 4x4 /Slash, Summit LT, Aton.

  39. #159
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    yeah, I just don't want to gall them up, they sure look purdy..... I am probably being too cautious...

    what do you drive? a VW?

  40. #160
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    I use a Craftsman ratchet wrench with a 17mm socket for my HR adapters.
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

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