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  1. #441
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaxxBash View Post
    I agree with you as far as the gluing of your tires.....I completely messed up my new badlands mx2.8.....so wobbly it's embarrassing.
    It's fun sometimes to go back to stock size and have to readjust your skills.


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    This is why I switched to beadlock Wheels. I suck at gluing tires. I got tired of having at least one or two wobbly Wheels out of four

    Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

  2. #442
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaXDee View Post
    This is why I switched to beadlock Wheels. I suck at gluing tires. I got tired of having at least one or two wobbly Wheels out of four

    Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
    I admit I was thinking about this thread as I was gluing up my Rustler wheels/tires this afternoon! I'm not the best tire-gluer in the world, but it gets easier the more you do. The secret is AKA tire glue with 3/4" of the little tubing as a nozzle.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  3. #443
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    I admit I was thinking about this thread as I was gluing up my Rustler wheels/tires this afternoon! I'm not the best tire-gluer in the world, but it gets easier the more you do. The secret is AKA tire glue with 3/4" of the little tubing as a nozzle.
    I never did it enough to get good at it. I would end up whipping one of the wheels across the room when I didn't glue correctly and the glue set. Ironically I do use AKA glue.

    A ProLine beadlock wheel/tire with strc aluminum rings is only 1 oz heavier then a glued Wheel and Tire. I can change a tire out in about 3 minutes with a electric screwdriver and no wobbly tires

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  4. #444
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    I admit I was thinking about this thread as I was gluing up my Rustler wheels/tires this afternoon! I'm not the best tire-gluer in the world, but it gets easier the more you do. The secret is AKA tire glue with 3/4" of the little tubing as a nozzle.
    I have done several sets, I still suck... just not for me

  5. #445
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    I got these little brass inserts from McMaster-Carr. I put a drop of CA glue on either side and push them in with the back end of a flat screwdriver so they're flush with wheel. I've never had one pull out on me and they never strip.

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  6. #446
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    I have another set in silver. I use the silver set to race with at the track with my TLR 22SCT 2.0 and my Slash. Black to bash with.

    Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

  7. #447
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaXDee View Post
    I never did it enough to get good at it. I would end up whipping one of the wheels across the room when I didn't glue correctly and the glue set. Ironically I do use AKA glue.

    A ProLine beadlock wheel/tire with strc aluminum rings is only 1 oz heavier then a glued Wheel and Tire. I can change a tire out in about 3 minutes with a electric screwdriver and no wobbly tires

    Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
    Whatever works for you, but 1 oz. is actually a lot of weight. Especially x 4 on rotating mass. I'm guessing it's actually quite a bit less than that per wheel, because that seems way more than I would expect.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  8. #448
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    Jimbo74's Sl4sh LCG Build

    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    Whatever works for you, but 1 oz. is actually a lot of weight. Especially x 4 on rotating mass. I'm guessing it's actually quite a bit less than that per wheel, because that seems way more than I would expect.
    You're probably right on it being quite a bit less than 1 ounce. The aluminum rings weigh next to nothing. If you hold the bead lock wheel and tire in one hand and a glued tire in the other, it's hard to tell which is heavier. You can barely tell that the beadlock is a hair heavier then it's glued counterpart.

    I went with bead locks because I got tired of having at least one wobbly tire out of four. It just makes the truck drive like poo.

  9. #449
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo74 View Post
    I have done several sets, I still suck... just not for me
    Me too.


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  10. #450
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    just heard proline has finally released some 2.8" premounts on f11 wheels for the 17mm crowd!!!!! finally!!!!!!

  11. #451
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Saw that yesterday on their website:

    https://www.prolineracing.com/1-10-mt-tires-premounted

    First 4 offerings in the list.
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  12. #452
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    great.... now i have to spend more $

  13. #453
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    I hope they add 2.8 Mashers to the 17mm list.

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  14. #454
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    had a chance to play hard today
    the motor was warm, probably more than it should be, but nowhere near causing damage I think
    temp gauge on the esc showed the esc was ambient, so the lowest level the gauge shows

    got in a couple traction rolls!
    did manage to brain fart and launch it into reverse into my ankle... that was awesome, especially since I was wearing crocs

    still looking to upgrade to a 40mm motor and a 3s or 4s battery..... BUT... if I want to stay 2s, I should stay around 2500-3000kv...

    I swear, I am just probably jsut going to have to breakdown and get a 1515 Castle or a 1/8th Tekin if I want sensored.

    on a serpeate note (and because I am lazy, but also want it to be documented here, in my thread) what would I need to start adding telemetry to my stuff? I have the link app/bluetooth, rx with tons of ports on it
    Last edited by jimbo74; 12-03-2017 at 04:49 AM.

  15. #455
    RC Champion shack351's Avatar
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    Hey Jimbo,

    Was that with the 4KKv "smog" motor?

    Yeah, I've had some reverse issues myself! Luckily nobody hurt.

    I know you wanted a 40mil can but there is A LOT of other really good stuff outside the 40mm realm. What about something like a TP4250-Sensored, in the 2D-4D range? There's no doubt about what they're capable of. I am very anxious to try out my TP4670. No sensors but that's ok... I just want raw, high-rpm 8S power anyway!

    -Shack

  16. #456
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    36 is lackluster at this point, and I don't want a 42.

  17. #457
    RC Champion shack351's Avatar
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    Apparently I need some schooling here. What is it about the 40 that makes you not want anything else but that? Just curious!

    -Shack

  18. #458
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    I don't want to hack up the chassis or run some ridiculous motor mount

  19. #459
    RC Champion shack351's Avatar
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    Hey Jimbo,

    Why would you need to do that? The "40mm" CC 1515 is actually closer to a 42mm (41.4 to be exact) diameter can and I did not cut or modify anything for it to fit. Many of the so-called 40 & 42mm cans that I've looked at are just like the CC 1515 and come in with an actual size that's a bit less than 42mm (finned or not-finned). The TPP 4030 line-up is 40*63 and should drop right in the Slash. Not saying you want that motor but it seems there are at least a few quality options other than CC to be had that don't require the things you mentioned above. You definitely shouldn't have to settle for anything less than what you want. Hope you find it!

    -Shack

  20. #460
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    Also not trying to spend $200 on a battery and a motor

  21. #461
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    there are BIG things in the works right now.......

  22. #462
    RC Champion SlashMaxx4x4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo74 View Post
    there are BIG things in the works right now.......
    Care to share details?
    "Gone racing"

  23. #463
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    Quote Originally Posted by SlashMaxx4x4 View Post
    Care to share details?
    not yet....

  24. #464
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    shack351 here is what I ended up getting today.... and your PM inbox is full (or you blocked me )


  25. #465
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    and just a teaser....... the upgrades are going to be YUGE!!!!!!!!

  26. #466
    RC Champion shack351's Avatar
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    Once I saw that you painted your Sl4sh pink with purple polka dots... I had to draw the line! No, it was full... sorry about that. I have the same scissors and they work great. Nice choice. I also see that you've invested in some quality soldering stuff. Your Hakko soldering station, with the above mentioned chisel pack and such, should allow you to do some nice soldering! It should be said that having quality soldering hardware, like yours, is a pricey investment but if you're serious about your connections, the cost is justifiable.

    A guy (kid) at our local track, where I normally just like to observe, kept having weird issues with his Slash... on 2S! When the time was right, I asked him if I could look at it and almost instantly I could see that his connections looked like they were done by a circus monkey. I'm not berating him, at all, (I have been a circus monkey many a time!) he just didn't understand the consequences of a sloppy soldering job. So I asked him if I could pull and tug on some wires and, after he agreed, I pulled with maybe 5-10lbs of force and the negative wire pulled right off the Traxxas-style connector he was using on his battery. Another tug and the positive followed suit. Normally the connector blade should just slide out but not here. He told me that he had an old Radio Shack iron that his grandfather let him have. I told him to go pick up at least a cheap Hobbico 60W version... less than $10. Well, I saw him again a few weeks later and, as I hoped, his rig was running well. He had got the new iron and done a much better job his second time around.

    Sorry to ramble Jimbo! Nice purchase and can't wait to see your "surprise" rig!

    -Shack

  27. #467
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    haha, you and thesmogman already know what my YUGE! things coming are, lol --- but both of you have been sworn to secrecy, for now

  28. #468
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Nice solder stuff, the 63/37 does actually make a difference over 60/40, good choice.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  29. #469
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    Teaser pic.......

    it's going to be YUUGGGEEE!!!!

  30. #470
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    Alright.... here is the YUGE!!! reveal:
    Last edited by jimbo74; 12-29-2017 at 04:12 AM.

  31. #471
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    42mm x 69mm 1900 kv, SMC, sensored motor

    4s, 131 amp /90c, 6700 mah, SMC True Spec battery

    elastic velcro strap form the hardware store, made to work for now

    Genuine Amass XT90 connectors

    15/52 gearing (currently, may change)

    10 gauge Acer Racing "Superworm" wires

    Gorilla double-sided mounting tape indoor/outdoor

    That esc plate was made for me by thesmogman when I got my RX8. I added a hole and was able to secure it to the chassis using 2 pre-existing threaded holes

    Trimmed 2 threaded holes off chassis under motor, I felt like they were going to rub, so I shaved them down. I may have issues with the driveshaft rubbing the motor can. A smaller pinion may not be possible. Could do a larger spur if needed.

    I do have the slipper locked down, it is the regular slash slipper, but has aluminum pads.

    Past mods:
    Tekin RX8 Gen2, ver. 258
    HPI Vorza D8 shocks
    F/R MIP X-Duty
    XO-1 Diffs
    Power HD 1217 metal gear, high speed/high torque servo run @ 7.4v
    Tqi radio system with TSM and app on Android


    EDIT: Just a note, the RX8 Gen 2 does not like 10 gauge wires, I had to squash them into a slot to slide into the posts
    Last edited by jimbo74; 12-29-2017 at 04:38 AM.

  32. #472
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    Weight

    Last edited by jimbo74; 12-29-2017 at 04:35 AM.

  33. #473
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    Charging this bad boy up

    Charger is 80watts/10amps, it it fed by a power supply that is 12vdc, 75 amp/900 watts

    Last edited by jimbo74; 12-29-2017 at 04:22 AM.

  34. #474
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    dangit, forgot to mention the motor is an 1/8th scale, 4-pole, with a 5mm shaft

  35. #475
    RC Qualifier MaxxBash's Avatar
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    Looks slick! What's the plan for it? Speedster? Or super racer?


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  36. #476
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    Nothing. Just driving the way I drive.... without worry of frying stuff for inadequate equipment

  37. #477
    RC Qualifier MaxxBash's Avatar
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    Very nice! My next plan is definitely going censored.


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  38. #478
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Very nice Jimbo. Looks like fun!

    Quote Originally Posted by MaxxBash View Post
    Very nice! My next plan is definitely going censored.
    Hahaha! Keeping it covered like Jimbo?
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  39. #479
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    Out of curiosity why 1900kv motor?

    Uh and with my 2400kv I gear it at 20/50

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  40. #480
    RC Qualifier MaxxBash's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post
    Very nice Jimbo. Looks like fun!


    Hahaha! Keeping it covered like Jimbo?
    Where is the cable? I tried to find it earlier but now luck lol


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