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  1. #41
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo74 View Post
    I still can't figure out what the crunchy noise is.... nothing appears to be damaged, and it's coming from the rear end..
    You've checked the rear diff right internals and the ring and pinion gears? Do you have other rear axles to see if it is the Mips or not?
    Well looks like razor beat me to it

  2. #42
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    everything is good... brand new build as well

  3. #43
    RC Racer
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    Just built almost the same thing, like your shocks. Still don't get the need to dye plastic.

  4. #44
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Have you tried to back off the screws under the diff?
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by quadpilot77 View Post
    Just built almost the same thing, like your shocks. Still don't get the need to dye plastic.
    there is no need to dye plastic, I just think it looks better... I think the stock grey chassis is ugly

  6. #46
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    ok, so I removed the center drive-shaft, swapped stock plastic axles on, still there, but less.... diff does feel a little notchy, but no more than it did when I built it. lower screws are backed out like 1/8"

    noise is still there....

    So I have what I think it could be.... it only does it at low speed... and the center shaft, isn't actually spinning at that point, it just seems that the center is almost vibrating, looking for where it is situated. to me, that would be non smooth application of a sensor-less, brush-less motor.... but really, I have no idea....

  7. #47
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  8. #48
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    Interesting sound indeed. Sounds like somthing is binding and this happens even after you have changed the bearing adapter.....
    Live life to the fullest

  9. #49
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    yup, I have the aluminum bearing adapter, new bearings, and the ervo slipper setup, on the second hole with metal pads and the slipper tightened down all the way

  10. #50
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Do you have another motor to try out.

  11. #51
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    so i just tore my rear diff apart.... it is noisy... could that be it, not internally, but the actual ring and pinion... tossed a bunch of grease in it, and it seems to have helped quiet it down a little bit... but otehr than that, nothing, no protrusions from screws into the case or anything like that... diff seems to be in good condition as well......

  12. #52
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    I do have another motor, but I really don't think it is the motor.... worth a shot though....

    let me get this YouTube video uploaded....

  13. #53
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    I assume the revo slipper does not intrude too far into the ring/pinion area causing them to rub? I know the other guy with the HR pads + revo slipper had that issue where it was just a little too long:

    https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...p-a-newbie-out
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  14. #54
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    nope, checked that.... everything looks great, also, I used the second hole, lots of people don't realize that..... all the plastic, and all the metal is fine, and where it should be.... teeth on my spur and pinion look great as well

  15. #55
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  16. #56
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    the noise is almost gone... I really think it was just the meshing of the pinion and ring gears in the diff.... loaded it down with white lithium grease. seems to be a lot better.... might also be because there is so much metal back there, that it is just amplifying all the sounds.....

  17. #57
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    If you back off the rear assembly a mm or two off of the slipper, does that help?
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  18. #58
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    why would I loosen the slipper? how would that help?

    anyways.... here she is:






    tossed on some stock mounts for a bit, and they are only about a 1/4" off, so they will work for now

  19. #59
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo74 View Post
    why would I loosen the slipper? how would that help?
    I didn't say slipper, I said rear assembly. The whole rear end. Did you read NOLAGT's thread that I pointed to earlier? He had almost the exact same problem, and posted this video of the rear end off a little bit and then making the grinding noise when attached normally.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DRIv...ature=youtu.be
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  20. #60
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    I was just about to post about my issues. OP just trying a stock slipper setup and see if the sound goes away. I have no idea why but with my HR setup (same as revo I think) the only thing that would stop the noise is to put a stock slipper in. After lots of testing swapping and manipulating it seems with my setup once it goes together the HR slipper setup puts extra pressure on the dif gears and causing a funky noise and sorta binds it up so it doesn't roll as freely. Just try a stock slipper and see if it goes away.
    Last edited by NOLAGT; 03-07-2016 at 08:12 AM.

  21. #61
    RC Racer
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    http://s1016.photobucket.com/profile.php?do=editpassword/Ta...tml?sort=3&o=1 Here is a pic of my truck with Vorza shocks and stock front shock tower. I ended up with blue in the front and grey or white springs in the rear. On the track the truck did better with a stiffer springs in the front than the rear. Nice truck OP.

  22. #62
    RC Champion thesmogman's Avatar
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    I have had small debris in the ring and pinion and sure I did slap some grease in there but you could feel it tighten up as it got to the debris. I always clean out the housing and clean off the ring and pinion with a rag and a tooth brush, then I run a toothpick thru each tooth to make sure I haven't got any stuff in it.

    Then I put it in and hold it by the bearings and spin it to see if it roll smooth before I apply the grease.

    If you get a rock in there and put a band-aid on it you might wear out them pre-maturely.

    Reason I say this is your ring gear look's worn in the video.
    Slash 4x4 Tekin RX8GenII w/Pro4 4300hd

  23. #63
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    Already has grease on it in the video, it is clean.....

    oh well, the whole build is fresh

  24. #64
    RC Qualifier RiderZ's Avatar
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    Looking good Jim.Its hard for me to tell in the video but it sounds normal to me.The Slash 4x4 is one of the noisiest r/c trucks I have ever heard.

  25. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by RiderZ View Post
    Looking good Jim.Its hard for me to tell in the video but it sounds normal to me.The Slash 4x4 is one of the noisiest r/c trucks I have ever heard.
    yeah..... really sounds like just that floating pinion gear in the rear diff... more grease quieted it down.....

    there was no rubbing, or binding, or any shavings or anything.... but the last video of turning the shafts, where it made the ring and pinion spin together was where the noise was.....


    and yes, that body is from an Arrma Mojave.......

  26. #66
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    I had just rebuilt my rear diff because of a bad O ring from the factory so mine was fresh and clean too. But there is definet extra pressure being put on the diff I think. I have no idea why, it's quite frustrating.

  27. #67
    RC Champion thesmogman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo74 View Post
    Already has grease on it in the video, it is clean.....

    oh well, the whole build is fresh
    Sorry Jimbo,

    I just looked at the video again and it does look ok. I guess it was when I paused to look at it that I had a bad pic I was looking at. I use high strength syn wheel bearing grease and I think it is a little thicker that your grease.

    When I spin mine it never is as "spinny" as yours, I think if you get thicker grease it will quiet it down more.

    How tight you do tighten the diff? If you really torque the four screws down it will move the ring gear a little closer to the pinion gear. I just snug them down just enough so I know they are tight and evenly tight too.
    Slash 4x4 Tekin RX8GenII w/Pro4 4300hd

  28. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by thesmogman View Post
    Sorry Jimbo,

    I just looked at the video again and it does look ok. I guess it was when I paused to look at it that I had a bad pic I was looking at. I use high strength syn wheel bearing grease and I think it is a little thicker that your grease.

    When I spin mine it never is as "spinny" as yours, I think if you get thicker grease it will quiet it down more.

    How tight you do tighten the diff? If you really torque the four screws down it will move the ring gear a little closer to the pinion gear. I just snug them down just enough so I know they are tight and evenly tight too.
    Sorry to kinda hijack but what 4 screws are you talking about? Maybe thats my issue?? I used Mobil 1 syn grease on mine...I dont know if I have enough on it so I could put more but there is extra pressure somewhere that makes it sound bad and bind. Maybe bind isn't the right term but instead of the wheels spinning freely one you take your finger off the trigger they stop almost right away. Maybe these 4 screws are too tight?

  29. #69
    RC Champion thesmogman's Avatar
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    It's the four screws that hold the diff cup to the ring gear. You only need to snug it up so the gasket is sealed. Also if you tighten it up too much you can feel the spider gears inside feel tight when spinning the axles.
    Slash 4x4 Tekin RX8GenII w/Pro4 4300hd

  30. #70
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOLAGT View Post
    Sorry to kinda hijack but what 4 screws are you talking about? Maybe thats my issue?? I used Mobil 1 syn grease on mine...I dont know if I have enough on it so I could put more but there is extra pressure somewhere that makes it sound bad and bind. Maybe bind isn't the right term but instead of the wheels spinning freely one you take your finger off the trigger they stop almost right away. Maybe these 4 screws are too tight?
    he is talking about the 4 screws holding the differential housing to the ring gear

    they are the weird size of 2.5mm and are eitehr 8mm long, or 12mm long depending if you run the slash or xo1 cup

  31. #71
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    I rebuilt my rear with the xo-1 parts but reused the shorter screws. I dont recall how tight I have them but I guess thats not my issue then. With the stock slipper setup its fine...its when I try to put the HR setup in is when I have issues. I really want to use the HR setup but I have no idea what could be off. When that pin gets moved to the other hole it makes the back end length of the shaft a touch longer than stock....and im guessing that puts pressure on the ring and pinion gear causing the funky sound and extra friction.

  32. #72
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOLAGT View Post
    I rebuilt my rear with the xo-1 parts but reused the shorter screws. I dont recall how tight I have them but I guess thats not my issue then. With the stock slipper setup its fine...its when I try to put the HR setup in is when I have issues. I really want to use the HR setup but I have no idea what could be off. When that pin gets moved to the other hole it makes the back end length of the shaft a touch longer than stock....and im guessing that puts pressure on the ring and pinion gear causing the funky sound and extra friction.
    interesting, that might be my problem also... something to look at later... not really in the mood to tear it apart again

  33. #73
    RC Champion thesmogman's Avatar
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    I've been using 3978 which is the XO-1 cup. Now you got me wondering what screw's to use with them. I am using 3965 which are the 2.5x8mm. screws. Which have been working fine but, should I be using 3236 which are 2.5x12mm. I guess I should be?

    Learned something new today... Thank's Jimbo!!

    And NOLAGT I use quite a bit in there, I will take a pic in the next two days as I need to re-grease the front. It seems that the front throw's the grease around more than the rear. Could be from the wheeling I have been doing more of lately.
    Slash 4x4 Tekin RX8GenII w/Pro4 4300hd

  34. #74
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    yeah, the xo1 uses 12mm long screws....

  35. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo74 View Post
    interesting, that might be my problem also... something to look at later... not really in the mood to tear it apart again
    I know what you mean, I flipped mine around so many times I gave up on it for now. What I found was when I had the HR setup in I would put the rear assembly onto the chassis and screw in the bottom 2 screws. Then when looking at the top 2 screws the holes would not line up on there own...I had to apply a little pressure to get them to line up...and thats when it applied more friction on the gears I think. When I put the stock setup in those top holes lined up on there own. I tested them but only having the bottom 2 screws on and pulling the trigger and then forcing the top 2 holes to line up. When doing this it was apparent the sound change.

    Quote Originally Posted by thesmogman View Post
    And NOLAGT I use quite a bit in there, I will take a pic in the next two days as I need to re-grease the front. It seems that the front throw's the grease around more than the rear. Could be from the wheeling I have been doing more of lately.
    Cool thanks!

  36. #76
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    ok, so bringing this up, it might be my chassis brace... it seems to want to pull the front and rear bulkheads together, possibly tighter than the chassis wants to allow.

    Also, I notice there is a locating tab on the chassis, but there isn't a corresponding recess in the rear bulkhead for it, so it is possible it just sits on there? will need to double check later.... just not in the mood to mess with it

  37. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo74 View Post
    ok, so bringing this up, it might be my chassis brace... it seems to want to pull the front and rear bulkheads together, possibly tighter than the chassis wants to allow.
    I could see that. Someone in my thread mentioned trying a brace that maybe mine without is not as straight as it should be....but my slash is pretty new.

  38. #78
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOLAGT View Post
    I could see that. Someone in my thread mentioned trying a brace that maybe mine without is not as straight as it should be....but my slash is pretty new.
    my slash is brand new, I just built it. It might be the brace pulling the ends closer together and might be the problem.....

  39. #79
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    so it isn't the slipper setup, or the chassis brace..... i rebuilt the slipper with the same aluminum pads and the main rod, and spur, but used the smaller slash plates, and still same thing.... on the first hole nearest the rear

    also, running without the brace, noise is still there. I honestly think it might just be cogging..... nothing seems to be wrong... and it runs pretty good.... Just the noise is bothering me, but everything seems fine.....

    no teeth anywhere have any damage

  40. #80
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    Glad to hear that's not your issue and there may just not really be one...back to the drawing board for me lol.

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