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  1. #81
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    so, I went to the LHS today, one of the guys there, said that is normal cogging.. and then explained to me how brushless motors that aren't sensored can't find their position at low speeds so they rock around until more power is applied, and they are good to go..... haha......



    That is kinda what I thought originally, especially after tearing it apart with nothing wrong......

    Time to drive it until it explodes, then rebuilt it......

    I wonder if my 19/54 pinion has anything to do with it? I picked up a 14 and 17 tooth also.... So here is what I am wondering.... It goes over 41 mph, which I like, and it's awesome for bashing... BUT it's going to be useless on a short course, tight track..... Where I think a smaller pinion would increase acceleration and the tighter switchback, I know top speed will be limited, but I don't think I will be getting it up to 40+ on a track either.....

  2. #82
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    As long as your track lets you run there with all the mods you've done.
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  3. #83
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    What mods? It is a 2wd brushed Arrma, look at it


    j/k so the track is nor-cal hobbies, and I would be rookie class
    Last edited by jimbo74; 03-10-2016 at 12:59 AM.

  4. #84
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo74 View Post
    What mods? It is a 2wd brushed Arrma, look at it


    j/k so the track is nor-cal hobbies, and I would be rookie class
    At Nor-cal Hobbies, stock gearing works great (13/54) on the current layout. It's pretty tight and technical right now.

    They are having all rookie races this Saturday evening at 6pm. I'll probably take my son.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  5. #85
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    Not sure I can make it out there this week....

    I thought they re-did the track a couple weeks ago? I was there last month.

    So even though, I have been playing with RC trucks for over 31 years, I am still a rookie when it comes to racing......

  6. #86
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo74 View Post
    Not sure I can make it out there this week....

    I thought they re-did the track a couple weeks ago? I was there last month.

    So even though, I have been playing with RC trucks for over 31 years, I am still a rookie when it comes to racing......
    They do a major overhaul of the track maybe once every 3 months and a minor change every 4-6 weeks. The last change was a couple of weeks ago and they basically just reversed the track.

    I'm not much of a racer, mostly I just go to the track and mess around trying different things and race once in a while when I can get my son out with me.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  7. #87
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Yeah, I completely suck.... the weekend I went out there, I think ti was a Saturday, and at the end of the races, I rented a 2wd slash for $10 and ran it..... Had a blast.... but it was definitely, a stock 2wd slash.....

  8. #88
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    You just need a dusty motors shroud to keep it somewhat clean and replace that screw up front next to the sway bar , it looks stock . Lol

  9. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by magnum500sw View Post
    You just need a dusty motors shroud to keep it somewhat clean and replace that screw up front next to the sway bar , it looks stock . Lol
    some of the screws are stock. stock screws are just fine

    and no, I don't need a Dusty motors shroud.....

  10. #90
    RC Champion thesmogman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    They do a major overhaul of the track maybe once every 3 months and a minor change every 4-6 weeks. The last change was a couple of weeks ago and they basically just reversed the track.

    I'm not much of a racer, mostly I just go to the track and mess around trying different things and race once in a while when I can get my son out with me.
    Next time you are going there let me know I need to get back to racing. I've been there 3 -4 times and enjoyed it big time. Prefer a Sunday or maybe Wednesday night??
    Slash 4x4 Tekin RX8GenII w/Pro4 4300hd

  11. #91
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thesmogman View Post
    Next time you are going there let me know I need to get back to racing. I've been there 3 -4 times and enjoyed it big time. Prefer a Sunday or maybe Wednesday night??
    My son and our neighbors will be there tomorrow (Saturday night) for the Rookie races. Probably again in 2 weeks (3/26) also.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  12. #92
    RC Champion thesmogman's Avatar
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    They wouldn't consider me a rookie. and Saturday doesn't work either as I don't get off til 6pm. They used to do a rookie class on Sunday, but I don't know if they do now! or if you could do a Sunday thing.

    Since it has been raining I think I will throw the race set-up in and see if I can get down there sometime.
    Slash 4x4 Tekin RX8GenII w/Pro4 4300hd

  13. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo74 View Post
    some of the screws are stock. stock screws are just fine

    and no, I don't need a Dusty motors shroud.....
    LOL. Rigid.

  14. #94
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    yeah, I don't know when I will get down there again, it is pretty close, but I don't have a reliable vehicle right now... so.....gotta work on that first

  15. #95
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    We're doing some serious thread-jacking here now, but...

    Rookie nights they also have a Novice/Sportsman race for people too fast for Rookie, and you can drive anything you like. I will do that if I don't have to do too much wrenching tomorrow.

    Sunday mornings I've gone a couple of times, but Rookie races are hit or miss, so I don't usually go since my son can't race then. I normally race 17.5 buggy Sportsman and 13.5 Stadium Truck.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  16. #96
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    I am a rookie. My car is a rocket, but I can't drive for beans, lol

  17. #97
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    I'm having a similar roughness to the rear end of my slash, taking it apart I noticed that the main bearing has a tiny bit of play in the Kingheadz motor mount. Even with a new bearing, it presses in but the spur gear/center diff can wobble a tiny bit. I'm going to try putting the plastic one back in to see if that reduces the play and quiets down the spur/pinion mesh.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  18. #98
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    jimbo, was your truck used? Any idea how old the spur gear is? I tore apart the whole rear, and while the Kingheadz has a little bit of wobble, the stock one does as well. My best guess at this point is the spur may be a bit worn. I'm running a center diff which really doesn't give like a slipper, so the spur is taking a beating. I'm going to try replacing that.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  19. #99
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    My truck build is brand new, the spur was old though.... It appears to be in good shape....

    From what I was tearing down, just sounds like the rear ring and pinion is noisy, just the way it is....

    When I went to the hobby store, the guy was liek oh, that's just cogging of the motor because the ESC is trying to figure out it's orientation.... it did go away when more throttle was applied, and it does run like a missile... so I am good

  20. #100
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo74 View Post
    My truck build is brand new, the spur was old though.... It appears to be in good shape....

    From what I was tearing down, just sounds like the rear ring and pinion is noisy, just the way it is....

    When I went to the hobby store, the guy was liek oh, that's just cogging of the motor because the ESC is trying to figure out it's orientation.... it did go away when more throttle was applied, and it does run like a missile... so I am good
    OK, mine is worse with more throttle and makes the noise even with the spur/center diff by itself with nothing attached to the drivetrain (rear or front) just spinning against the pinion in the motor mount. The car drives fine, but it's abnormally noisy.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  21. #101
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    your issue doesn't sound like mine..... I think mine is fine I think it is a little too loud, but since I took everything apart, and looked over everything, and it was good... I guess time will tell....

    Just need to figure out a body situation where I can have a great looking body, not spend a ton, and don't have to hack it up to not have parachuting......

  22. #102
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    destroyed a wheel today so.. it was fun while it lasted.......

    basically warped/bent it to the point the hub is half sideways......

  23. #103
    RC Champion thesmogman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo74 View Post
    destroyed a wheel today so.. it was fun while it lasted.......

    basically warped/bent it to the point the hub is half sideways......
    That sucks man, but finish the story...He broke it running into his own boot. Lucky they are steel toe boot's.
    It was great to meet you Jimbo!! Sorry about the wheel. And you did find out it was the motor cogging too.
    It cogg's more with a taller gear also. Glad to help you out!!
    Slash 4x4 Tekin RX8GenII w/Pro4 4300hd

  24. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by thesmogman View Post
    but finish the story...He broke it running into his own boot. Lucky they are steel toe boot's.
    LOL. Good thing steel toe boots...I ran mine into my foot right below the ankle wearing sandals...there was a big gash and lots of blood!

  25. #105
    RC Champion thesmogman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOLAGT View Post
    LOL. Good thing steel toe boots...I ran mine into my foot right below the ankle wearing sandals...there was a big gash and lots of blood!
    I have a crack in my big toenail that I have been super gluing for the last two weeks. Yes Sandal's are not safety footwear.
    Slash 4x4 Tekin RX8GenII w/Pro4 4300hd

  26. #106
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Ok, so I was goofing around in the parking lot @ thesmogman's work, and just zipping up and down and it was coming straight at me, I was like oops, and knew it wasn't going to stop in time, so I directed a slide... well it slid, went right into my boot sideways.... Kept driving, it, and realized that the rear left wheel was all wobbly.... not sure if it was the wheel or the MIP, I took it off, and moved it to the other side, yup it was the wheel.... That's what you get for driving like a maniac, and buying Gool RC.....

    Was awesome meeting thesmogman He is a great guy! hopefully soon, we can go race @ NorCal


    hopefully, I can figure out some way to not half push through a hub..... 17mm maybe?

    Ug, just bought new wheels and tires... and.... I am broke as a joke right now.... Also, I don't like the MIP nut.... I remember someone saying there is a different nut, but don't remember who or where I saw that..... Could have been on the RC forum that banned me....
    Last edited by jimbo74; 03-16-2016 at 12:47 AM.

  27. #107
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    so I put on my Mojave wheels... had 1, well half a run.......

    Stripped out the front wheel hex.......


    Loving the 4wd, but seem to be killing wheels.....

    now I have 2 sets of 3 wheels, grrrrrrrrrr................... so I have the black wheels on front now, and the silvers on the rear...


    Really need to look into 17mm @ this point... but my 1:1 needs attention first....... so.........

  28. #108
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    Sorry to hear about your wheel troubles, Jimbo. Stripping wheels is right up there with a blown diff for the most aggravating breakage. I think you'll find 17mm hubs will really stop those failures from occurring. I've broken three MIP X-duty stub axles from sideways landings that would have otherwise broken 12mm hex wheels. I think that 17mm adapters are a necessity with an overpowered Sl4sh.

  29. #109
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Just don't know what to do about the 17mm situation right now.... I have X duties in the rear, but stock up front.... If I get an adapter like the HR that slips over the 12mm hex, I still have plastic hexes up front.....

  30. #110
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo74 View Post
    Just don't know what to do about the 17mm situation right now.... I have X duties in the rear, but stock up front.... If I get an adapter like the HR that slips over the 12mm hex, I still have plastic hexes up front.....
    Can you just buy 17mm hexes?

    http://www.hot-racing.com/index.cgi?...SLF17R06;c=480
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  31. #111
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    can't use those, I have rear mip x duties

  32. #112
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    These will work with MIP X-dutys and plastic hexes:
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hex-Hub-Adap...IAAOSwoBtW43wM

    The worst that could happen is that the plastic hex breaks and you're sidelined until you get an aluminum or steel hex to replace it. I really don't think that would happen, at least not right away. The hex fits pretty snugly inside the adapter so there is a lot of bearing area.

  33. #113
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    yeah, I was talking about the ones that slip over the hex...

    I know what is out there, I just really don't like the options.......

    and this has to sit for now... I mean I can run it just fine, just it's such a headache, that I don't want to.....

  34. #114
    RC Champion thesmogman's Avatar
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    I'm running the STRC 12mm hexes and the Traxxas steel nylon nut's and I snug them down alot. So much that I have snapped the pin going thru the axle by tightening the nut too much.

    But I haven't stripped a wheel....yet!
    Slash 4x4 Tekin RX8GenII w/Pro4 4300hd

  35. #115
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    ok, so time for an update, I put in a 15 tooth pinion, still have the 54 tooth spur..... that noise I had, pretty much gone now, like completely.....

    has rear Arrma tires, front gool RC

    got through 2 packs today, ran without hte body.... handled awesome..... that body really does a number on handling.....

    also, ziptied a <$2 light kit I ordered from China off eBay..... seems pretty legit, not a permanent install, but good for now.... so those lights are prewired, came with the metal bezels, and have a resistor wired in.... they also have a plastic piece behind the LED that locks them into the bezel.... an has the standard FutJ plug on it... and a lot of wire, like a foot per light, and then a foot from where they are all connected to the connector.... pretty sweet for $1.79,,, front whites are 5mm, rear reds are 3mm

    so the first 5 pictures, the garage is completely dark and no flash was used




















  36. #116
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    so... no matter what I do, it seems like I have a ridiculous amount of front travel...... and although I have camber and toe set well at ride height, because of the travel, it is making my tires bald on the insides.....

    similar to what positive camber, and excessive toe out would give..... but I don't have either of those.....




    UGH!!!!!!! my real car, my toy car.... I just need to give up..........

  37. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo74 View Post
    ok, so time for an update, I put in a 15 tooth pinion, still have the 54 tooth spur..... that noise I had, pretty much gone now, like completely.....

    has rear Arrma tires, front gool RC

    got through 2 packs today, ran without hte body.... handled awesome..... that body really does a number on handling.....

    also, ziptied a <$2 light kit I ordered from China off eBay..... seems pretty legit, not a permanent install, but good for now.... so those lights are prewired, came with the metal bezels, and have a resistor wired in.... they also have a plastic piece behind the LED that locks them into the bezel.... an has the standard FutJ plug on it... and a lot of wire, like a foot per light, and then a foot from where they are all connected to the connector.... pretty sweet for $1.79,,, front whites are 5mm, rear reds are 3mm

    so the first 5 pictures, the garage is completely dark and no flash was used



















    What battery where you useing when you ran those lights? Do you have a link by any chance? I would love to do something like that on my car.
    Awesome job dude

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  38. #118
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo74 View Post
    so... no matter what I do, it seems like I have a ridiculous amount of front travel......
    Are you talking about extension travel or compression travel?

    and although I have camber and toe set well at ride height, because of the travel, it is making my tires bald on the insides.....

    similar to what positive camber, and excessive toe out would give..... but I don't have either of those.....
    Do you mean negative camber? Positive camber has your tires leaning out, which should wear out the outsides of the tire. In any case, based on camber link position, you will have camber gain. So if you're slamming on the brakes, it should wear out the insides of the front tire more because the suspension is compressing as you are braking and the tires lean inward as the suspension compresses (camber gain). Moving the camber link in on the front shock tower will help.

    Are your tires wearing from braking, acceleration, or cornering?
    Last edited by RazorRC22; 04-08-2016 at 12:33 AM.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  39. #119
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    the tires are wearing from all the driving I do.... acceleration happens, as does braking, and cornering.....

    oops. meant they are wearing like negative camber, and excessive toe out


    the ride height is perfect... it just seems to have too much extension, and too much droop - it does handle awesome, but my tires are dying.... the rear tires are fine

    I do a lot of power sliding and 4 wheels drifts and suck as well....


    here are the lights I bought, they have resistors inside them already, and also have bezels with plastic locks on them to lock them into the bezels, there is a lot of wiring on them, and they plug directly into the receiver, so I am using whatever voltage my MMP is set to, honestly, not sure what voltage I have it set to anymore.... it is either 6 or 7 volts.....

    $1.79 with free shipping

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/252125091644...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

  40. #120
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Move your camber links to the inner hole on the front shock tower. That should fix your tire wear problem.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

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