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  1. #161
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post
    I use a Craftsman ratchet wrench with a 17mm socket for my HR adapters.
    is it a 6pt or a 12pt? thin wall or other?

  2. #162
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    ok, so had a chance to try the slicks, they are eh..... at startup, they make the truck jsut torque sideways hard to the right.... once i get moving, they are pretty decent though.... awesome drifting... they do seem a little softer now though... I did do a burnout, and it seemed to have helped

    now, with the 17mm HR, the nuts on the left side come loose on their own....

    My new wrench, big bone, and arrma wheels are out for delivery... just nervous to crank down on these things, as I think that is why I blew a 12mm wheel, because the hub was tight

  3. #163
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    Jimbo update the thread.

  4. #164
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    what do you want updated? got my big bone in the mail today, my arrma wheels and my wrench

  5. #165
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo74 View Post
    what do you want updated? got my big bone in the mail today, my arrma wheels and my wrench
    Your first post/thread isn't showing the image.
    Nice keep us updated with images.

  6. #166
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    Quote Originally Posted by DatGuyAsh View Post
    Your first post/thread isn't showing the image.
    Nice keep us updated with images.
    that is because those pictures have been removed and replaced

  7. #167
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo74 View Post
    is it a 6pt or a 12pt? thin wall or other?
    6 point. Don't know if it's a thin wall or not, but it fits in my F-11's!
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  8. #168
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    big bone is in

  9. #169
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    so ran it with the big bone, is it supposed to be that loud?!

    remember that gear noise I originally had? this sounds like that, but way worse... I did leave the bone slightly loose in the cups, with the 2 orings on each end, should I tighten them down? I don't think so, there is almost no play in my slipper shaft forward and aft now.... sounds like a 2 stroke motor......

  10. #170
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    LoL I have the same thing with the big bone. It's like a dragging clanking sound. I was told and read forum posts that the big bone hits the chassis in a spot in the front tunnel. I haven't had it apart to check. But some people just run it and the big bone will wear it's groove, others dremel the area for clearance.

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

  11. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tacobox View Post
    LoL I have the same thing with the big bone. It's like a dragging clanking sound. I was told and read forum posts that the big bone hits the chassis in a spot in the front tunnel. I haven't had it apart to check. But some people just run it and the big bone will wear it's groove, others dremel the area for clearance.

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
    yeah, I have heard that with the HCG, but I run the LCG, I looked it isn't touching anywhere, I just don't want it to jam up from not having enough play, or cause any problems... The noise may just simply be the drive pin in the bone contacting the drive cup

  12. #172
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    I dunno, I've got the lcg as well. I'm not sure. I've only got 5 min tops of run time on my build. So I don't know what is making the noise. But pull the big bone out, put stock in...noise goes away

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

  13. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tacobox View Post
    I dunno, I've got the lcg as well. I'm not sure. I've only got 5 min tops of run time on my build. So I don't know what is making the noise. But pull the big bone out, put stock in...noise goes away

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

    yeah, I know it is the big bone, it is the only thing that has changed, and it wasn't like that before

  14. #174
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    I was at a loss too. So when you figure it out let me know. I'll be home later tonight. Maybe if I'm feeling like it I'll rear mine apart too.

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

  15. #175
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tacobox View Post
    I was at a loss too. So when you figure it out let me know. I'll be home later tonight. Maybe if I'm feeling like it I'll rear mine apart too.

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
    I know exactly what it is, it is the big bone, nothing to take apart, the stock isn't as noisy, but it also doesn't have a pin and cups

  16. #176
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    I'll be honest, I'm not sure what the point of the big bone driveshaft is. The stock one is light, and has 6 points of engagement. I guess if the chassis is twisting a lot, the big bone allows some movement in the two ends and will still maintain smooth drive, but I use a chassis brace and so my chassis doesn't flex at all in the driveshaft direction.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  17. #177
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    I did it because of the mmx/2200 set up and potentially running 2.8 tires. My buddy ate up 2 stock shafts from the torque. So I just went ahead and followed him and went big bone from the start.

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

  18. #178
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    So I am actually running it, because it was only $20, is supposed to be an upgrade, and my stock, hollow one is cracking at the teeth

  19. #179
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. GeneralPede01's Avatar
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    I use the traxxas handle part number tra5480. It was cheap and works like a charm.



    Member of the triple digit club 100mph p4de

  20. #180
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    yup, that is what I got

  21. #181
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    got my Team Associated Factory Team 4mm turnbuckle wrench, it is awesome


  22. #182
    RC Qualifier Swampthing's Avatar
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    It's the Tekno front diff out drive rubbing. It has to be. Everyone with an LCG has the issue. I bet if you look at the underside of the chassis it will have rub marks. On visual inspection and even manually rotating the drive shaft I didn't think mine was rubbing either, but under throttle it sounded like a 2 stroke motor just as you described. Not enough contact to cause any resistance but just enough to make the noise.
    Rustler | MERV | Summit | Slash Ultimate | Slash

  23. #183
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Watch from 6:01:

    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  24. #184
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    well, i know what i am doing tonight...... grrrrrrrrr

  25. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo74 View Post
    well, i know what i am doing tonight...... grrrrrrrrr

    The grind only takes a second or two.
    Slash, Street Rally, 4x4 /Slash, Summit LT, Aton.

  26. #186
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    yeah, but my good tools aren't here so I just took it apart with regular allen wrenches... joy..... anyway, I will take a pic, it looks like it did rub a little bit..... and it is easy to see because My chassis was dyed black

  27. #187
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    I think the issue I was thinking of was rocks in the driveshaft..... not this



  28. #188
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. GeneralPede01's Avatar
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    I had thought of getting a big bone, but the stock seems to be doing fine so I decided against it. Plus with my center driveshaft mod I can't run one.



    Member of the triple digit club 100mph p4de

  29. #189
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    so, I haven't run it yet, but it does seem a lot quieter


  30. #190
    RC Qualifier Swampthing's Avatar
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    Bingo! That noise was obnoxious wasn't it!
    Rustler | MERV | Summit | Slash Ultimate | Slash

  31. #191
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    I am not 100% it is gone, but it does sound better initially

  32. #192
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    those slicks are pretty grippy.... I drove around on very dusty, smooth concrete without issue, there was sliding going on, but that is to be expected. These tires were actually pretty decent once they warmed up a little bit

    also got my toe/camber a little more dialed... it is running pretty good at this point, but I want to gear it to make it faster.... with less initial torque, because I love WOT and just spin out when I goose it from a stop --- that could also be due to the 100k in the rear.... maybe I should try some 50k (don't have) or some 30k (which I do have)

  33. #193
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Loosening your slipper a little would probably help. Primitive form of traction control.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  34. #194
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    no. I run aluminum pads......

    not yanking the trigger would probably help too

  35. #195
    RC Champion thesmogman's Avatar
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    Mister lead finger...... By the way I think you left half of your tires here. Ha Ha!!!

    With 100k in the rear both wheels light up and you lose traction. I am running 5k rear so I think your 30k would improve your handling. You could loosen the slipper a little too. I know you don't want to but there's a point where you are going to have to live with a little bad handling then.

    Moving your battery back did help a little. Had fun the other day!! Thank's
    Slash 4x4 Tekin RX8GenII w/Pro4 4300hd

  36. #196
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    I am going to try and fry my MMP. Since I got "mine" back after a wire replacement, it hasn't been the same, I think they actually swapped it with a defective unit, that was "refurbished" Castle has been giving me the runaround on this ESC, while I like Castle's software, I did not like being lied to by their "techs"

    put 30k in the rear, and changed gearing to 19/50

  37. #197
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Turning down the throttle expo on your radio would help a little also to lay down the power more smoothly.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  38. #198
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    Turning down the throttle expo on your radio would help a little also to lay down the power more smoothly.
    nah.... it's a choice...... turning down my lead finger would help more

  39. #199
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    45.85 MPH today!!!!

    not sure if I am hitting LVC or thermal overload... but at that time, I temped the motor, and was at 170*

  40. #200
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    so, it is definitely thermal shutdown.... blinking red and yellow

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