Jimbo74's Sl4sh LCG Build

[jimbo74]

I use a Craftsman ratchet wrench with a 17mm socket for my HR adapters.

is it a 6pt or a 12pt? thin wall or other?

[jimbo74]

ok, so had a chance to try the slicks, they are eh..... at startup, they make the truck jsut torque sideways hard to the right.... once i get moving, they are pretty decent though.... awesome drifting... they do seem a little softer now though... I did do a burnout, and it seemed to have helped

now, with the 17mm HR, the nuts on the left side come loose on their own....

My new wrench, big bone, and arrma wheels are out for delivery... just nervous to crank down on these things, as I think that is why I blew a 12mm wheel, because the hub was tight

[DatGuyAsh]

Jimbo update the thread.

[jimbo74]

what do you want updated? got my big bone in the mail today, my arrma wheels and my wrench

[DatGuyAsh]

what do you want updated? got my big bone in the mail today, my arrma wheels and my wrench

Your first post/thread isn't showing the image.
Nice keep us updated with images.

[jimbo74]

Your first post/thread isn't showing the image.
Nice keep us updated with images.

that is because those pictures have been removed and replaced

[Squeegie]

is it a 6pt or a 12pt? thin wall or other?

6 point. Don't know if it's a thin wall or not, but it fits in my F-11's!

[jimbo74]

big bone is in

[jimbo74]

so ran it with the big bone, is it supposed to be that loud?!

remember that gear noise I originally had? this sounds like that, but way worse... I did leave the bone slightly loose in the cups, with the 2 orings on each end, should I tighten them down? I don't think so, there is almost no play in my slipper shaft forward and aft now.... sounds like a 2 stroke motor......

[Tacobox]

LoL I have the same thing with the big bone. It's like a dragging clanking sound. I was told and read forum posts that the big bone hits the chassis in a spot in the front tunnel. I haven't had it apart to check. But some people just run it and the big bone will wear it's groove, others dremel the area for clearance.

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[jimbo74]

LoL I have the same thing with the big bone. It's like a dragging clanking sound. I was told and read forum posts that the big bone hits the chassis in a spot in the front tunnel. I haven't had it apart to check. But some people just run it and the big bone will wear it's groove, others dremel the area for clearance.

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yeah, I have heard that with the HCG, but I run the LCG, I looked it isn't touching anywhere, I just don't want it to jam up from not having enough play, or cause any problems... The noise may just simply be the drive pin in the bone contacting the drive cup

[Tacobox]

I dunno, I've got the lcg as well. I'm not sure. I've only got 5 min tops of run time on my build. So I don't know what is making the noise. But pull the big bone out, put stock in...noise goes away

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[jimbo74]

I dunno, I've got the lcg as well. I'm not sure. I've only got 5 min tops of run time on my build. So I don't know what is making the noise. But pull the big bone out, put stock in...noise goes away

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yeah, I know it is the big bone, it is the only thing that has changed, and it wasn't like that before

[Tacobox]

I was at a loss too. So when you figure it out let me know. I'll be home later tonight. Maybe if I'm feeling like it I'll rear mine apart too.

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[jimbo74]

I was at a loss too. So when you figure it out let me know. I'll be home later tonight. Maybe if I'm feeling like it I'll rear mine apart too.

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I know exactly what it is, it is the big bone, nothing to take apart, the stock isn't as noisy, but it also doesn't have a pin and cups

[RazorRC22]

I'll be honest, I'm not sure what the point of the big bone driveshaft is. The stock one is light, and has 6 points of engagement. I guess if the chassis is twisting a lot, the big bone allows some movement in the two ends and will still maintain smooth drive, but I use a chassis brace and so my chassis doesn't flex at all in the driveshaft direction.

[Tacobox]

I did it because of the mmx/2200 set up and potentially running 2.8 tires. My buddy ate up 2 stock shafts from the torque. So I just went ahead and followed him and went big bone from the start.

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[jimbo74]

So I am actually running it, because it was only $20, is supposed to be an upgrade, and my stock, hollow one is cracking at the teeth

[GeneralPede01]

I use the traxxas handle part number tra5480. It was cheap and works like a charm.



Member of the triple digit club 100mph p4de

[jimbo74]

yup, that is what I got

[jimbo74]

got my Team Associated Factory Team 4mm turnbuckle wrench, it is awesome

[Swampthing]

It's the Tekno front diff out drive rubbing. It has to be. Everyone with an LCG has the issue. I bet if you look at the underside of the chassis it will have rub marks. On visual inspection and even manually rotating the drive shaft I didn't think mine was rubbing either, but under throttle it sounded like a 2 stroke motor just as you described. Not enough contact to cause any resistance but just enough to make the noise.

[Squeegie]

Watch from 6:01:

[jimbo74]

well, i know what i am doing tonight...... grrrrrrrrr

[elDax]

well, i know what i am doing tonight...... grrrrrrrrr

The grind only takes a second or two.

[jimbo74]

yeah, but my good tools aren't here so I just took it apart with regular allen wrenches... joy..... anyway, I will take a pic, it looks like it did rub a little bit..... and it is easy to see because My chassis was dyed black

[jimbo74]

I think the issue I was thinking of was rocks in the driveshaft..... not this

[GeneralPede01]

I had thought of getting a big bone, but the stock seems to be doing fine so I decided against it. Plus with my center driveshaft mod I can't run one.



Member of the triple digit club 100mph p4de

[jimbo74]

so, I haven't run it yet, but it does seem a lot quieter

[Swampthing]

Bingo! That noise was obnoxious wasn't it!

[jimbo74]

I am not 100% it is gone, but it does sound better initially

[jimbo74]

those slicks are pretty grippy.... I drove around on very dusty, smooth concrete without issue, there was sliding going on, but that is to be expected. These tires were actually pretty decent once they warmed up a little bit

also got my toe/camber a little more dialed... it is running pretty good at this point, but I want to gear it to make it faster.... with less initial torque, because I love WOT and just spin out when I goose it from a stop --- that could also be due to the 100k in the rear.... maybe I should try some 50k (don't have) or some 30k (which I do have)

[RazorRC22]

Loosening your slipper a little would probably help. Primitive form of traction control.

[jimbo74]

no. I run aluminum pads......

not yanking the trigger would probably help too

[thesmogman]

Mister lead finger...... By the way I think you left half of your tires here. Ha Ha!!!

With 100k in the rear both wheels light up and you lose traction. I am running 5k rear so I think your 30k would improve your handling. You could loosen the slipper a little too. I know you don't want to but there's a point where you are going to have to live with a little bad handling then.

Moving your battery back did help a little. Had fun the other day!! Thank's

[jimbo74]

I am going to try and fry my MMP. Since I got "mine" back after a wire replacement, it hasn't been the same, I think they actually swapped it with a defective unit, that was "refurbished" Castle has been giving me the runaround on this ESC, while I like Castle's software, I did not like being lied to by their "techs"

put 30k in the rear, and changed gearing to 19/50

[RazorRC22]

Turning down the throttle expo on your radio would help a little also to lay down the power more smoothly.

[jimbo74]

Turning down the throttle expo on your radio would help a little also to lay down the power more smoothly.

nah.... it's a choice...... turning down my lead finger would help more

[jimbo74]

45.85 MPH today!!!!

not sure if I am hitting LVC or thermal overload... but at that time, I temped the motor, and was at 170*

[jimbo74]

so, it is definitely thermal shutdown.... blinking red and yellow