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  1. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marley510 View Post
    Picking mine at my LHS on Friday. He ordered 3 sets. One is mine and the other two are up for grabs. The ship is in Cherry Hill nj.
    How have the drill bit drive shaft pins been holding up?

  2. #82
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    Must have gotten the wrong ones because they snapped right away. I'm using one of my drivers the shaft diameter is 3 mm sit them to 20mm and I'm golden. Ran 8 packs no problems.

  3. #83
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    In such a heavy truck you will need a very thick oil in the cup to make the Center Diff idea work, though not sure how well. If the tires have alot of bit I think it make cause the front to overdrive the rear too much on a heavy truck like the maxx. There will be benefits such as better steering but not sure you would see this as beneficial as you do in something like the Slash. Just need to try it and see what happens.

  4. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marley510 View Post
    Must have gotten the wrong ones because they snapped right away. I'm using one of my drivers the shaft diameter is 3 mm sit them to 20mm and I'm golden. Ran 8 packs no problems.
    Yea they shouldn't of snapped instantly lol. I used a cut piece of a TiNi driver to. Super convenient there 3mm. I never broke that either

  5. #85
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    Yosh, Running my new b3e at my friends backyard track this weekend if your up for a drive.

  6. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by yoshgixxer View Post
    Yea mine still slipped on 8s locked down also. The Kershaw bevel spring and thrust bearing kit works pretty well to crank up the clamp load, it's cheap to. Like $7 or somthing. Is there room to drill some holes through the whole thing and put some screws in it?

    Are you referring to the slipper clutch assembly when you suggest drilling holes? If so, there doesn't appear to be enough material so if one managed to do so the screws would be small, they may or may not handle the force that's going to be applied to them. I really want to be able to swap spurs so I'm just hoping to eliminate the clutch housing entirely.

  7. #87
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    It seems like a rig this heavy needs something better than the same old slipper clutch that has been around since the 80's ! Revo type was a Traxxas innovation I guess but aside from that it seems every electric vehicle has a low tech slipper. Seems like the last famous "improvement" was the Losi HydraDrive ... and if you remember that term then you might be in my age bracket...LOL .... I don't recall if it did any better than the RC10 simple slipper though...
    3905 E-MAXX

  8. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by BT_EMT View Post
    It seems like a rig this heavy needs something better than the same old slipper clutch that has been around since the 80's ! Revo type was a Traxxas innovation I guess but aside from that it seems every electric vehicle has a low tech slipper. Seems like the last famous "improvement" was the Losi HydraDrive ... and if you remember that term then you might be in my age bracket...LOL .... I don't recall if it did any better than the RC10 simple slipper though...
    I wouldn't say that. The Cush Drive clutch system in the XO-1 was definitely a new design and it works well in that vehicle. The trouble is that you need some slip with the X-Maxx. The XO-1 will spin its tires rather than snapping driveshaft parts. If you get an X-Maxx wheel stuck in a rut and it cannot move, you might be snapping parts with heavy throttle input.

    A hydraulic torque converter would be completely awesome, but expensive and probably high maintenance. It also wouldn't help braking much.
    Last edited by E-Maxxdude; 03-16-2016 at 08:55 AM.

  9. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by BT_EMT View Post
    It seems like a rig this heavy needs something better than the same old slipper clutch that has been around since the 80's ! Revo type was a Traxxas innovation I guess but aside from that it seems every electric vehicle has a low tech slipper. Seems like the last famous "improvement" was the Losi HydraDrive ... and if you remember that term then you might be in my age bracket...LOL .... I don't recall if it did any better than the RC10 simple slipper though...
    HO-LE Cripes hydra drive! Haha havnt herd that in 15 years or so. I had a kinwald XX CR with the hydradrive that I thought was the most amazing RC ever lol. I do remember it being heavy and hurt the punch but I didn't care cuz it was so cool! Lol

  10. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by E-Maxxdude View Post
    I wouldn't say that. The Cush Drive clutch system in the XO-1 was definitely a new design and it works well in that vehicle. The trouble is that you need some slip with the X-Maxx. The XO-1 will spin its tires rather than snapping driveshaft parts. If you get an X-Maxx wheel stuck in a rut and it cannot move, you might be snapping parts with heavy throttle input.

    A hydraulic torque converter would be completely awesome, but expensive and probably high maintenance. It also wouldn't help braking much.
    A torque converter would be sick! Handle the heat, adjustable slip man o man lol

    What exactly do you do as a Traxxas employee of you don't Mind me askin?

  11. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by E-Maxxdude View Post

    A hydraulic torque converter would be completely awesome, but expensive and probably high maintenance. It also wouldn't help braking much.
    That is a easy solution. You use a One Way bearing inside of the TC. In reverse it would be a direct drive through the TC but the throttle is already very limited in reverse so that wont be a issue as well.

    A TC with changible Stalls and the ability to change the fluid to alter the coupling effect would be the path forward.

  12. #92
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    I recently read about some company released a line of electric clutch bells/pinions just like nitro, with a tuneable variety of clutch shoe material, various springs, etc. Wonder if that will catch on...

    I forgot about the Traxxas "crush" rubber idea.
    3905 E-MAXX

  13. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by yoshgixxer View Post
    A torque converter would be sick! Handle the heat, adjustable slip man o man lol

    What exactly do you do as a Traxxas employee of you don't Mind me askin?
    Ha! He's the janitor!
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  14. #94
    RC Champion Redsawacs's Avatar
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    I believe the center differential is a "torque converter". I'm sure we will see one soon enough. But, we're talking diff gears here.
    "RED"

  15. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redsawacs View Post
    I believe the center differential is a "torque converter". I'm sure we will see one soon enough. But, we're talking diff gears here.
    Torque Converter and Center Diff are two completely different animals. I dont see how a TC could function in the place of a Center Diff.

  16. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattpopp View Post
    Torque Converter and Center Diff are two completely different animals. I dont see how a TC could function in the place of a Center Diff.
    But we're talking diff gears here.
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

  17. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by ksb51rl View Post
    But we're talking diff gears here.
    Depends on the conversation as it seems there are two happening. If you are referring to a Center Diff you are basically correct. If you are replying about a Torque Converter then you are incorrect.

  18. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by rtmike View Post
    Why is that?

    Why can't we just go the "Parts & Accessories" section & type 7777x? Is there some sort of secret handshake or wink, wink, try this link? NOT COMPLAINING...I'm just curious.
    I called and ordered mine

  19. #99
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    Just got mine! My LHS got 8 sets, or 4 complete truck sets, 3 of those 4 sets are per sold! Hopefully I can get mine in tonight!
    Is owning 27 RC's too many? No way!

  20. #100
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    I ordered mine today.

  21. #101
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    They're heeeeeeere...

    Broke 2 teeth on mine today on 6s.

    http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...02F84A43A2.jpg

    I tried ordering from Traxxas site but can't even find them under 7777x or 7778x.
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 03-18-2016 at 10:46 PM.

  22. #102
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    You have to place your order by calling Traxxas directly.
    The ReglarGuy is kid tested and father approved.

  23. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattpopp View Post
    Depends on the conversation as it seems there are two happening. If you are referring to a Center Diff you are basically correct. If you are replying about a Torque Converter then you are incorrect.
    Two different conversations in the same thread create confusion and problems. If a thread on center diffs and slippers is desired, a new thread should be started.
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

  24. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by ksb51rl View Post
    Two different conversations in the same thread create confusion and problems. If a thread on center diffs and slippers is desired, a new thread should be started.
    by all means, start a new thread. I am sure some good decision could be generated.

  25. #105
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    On a lighter note...I'm not saying these new diff ring gears are expensive or anything, but this guy wanted to trade me his car for my new Traxxas Xmaxx ring gears. I laughed, and told him nothing doing. These darn things are just too darn pricey for me to just give-em away. Anyway, I told him I wouldn't even consider trading unless he threw in a full tank of gas, and a new K&N racing air filter to go with the whole deal.

    The ReglarGuy is kid tested and father approved.

  26. #106
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    Will these come standard on the x-maxx now, or are they purely upgrades?
    Last edited by John McClane; 03-20-2016 at 04:11 PM.

  27. #107
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    I broke 2 teeth off of my rear ring gear, coming back down from a wheelie. I have not bashed this truck much. Ive yet to find a good place to jump it. It was only a 6 dollar part and 10 minute fix. I guess ill upgrade when these bad boys hit the market!

  28. #108
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    After about 20 pairs of battery packs, I decided it was time to take a look at my rear diff. The ring gear is perfect and shows very little wear, but the pinion shows significant wear and one tooth has a small chip taken out of it. For how rough I am with the truck, I'm not dissatisfied at all with the diff's durability so far. Perhaps that's because I've owned an E-Revo BL for a few years! So I'm installing a new pinion that I have on hand when I put the truck back together tomorrow morning. Good thing I caught it before it tore up the ring gear. I'm still undecided about upgrading to the machined, spiral-cut units. If I do, I'll likely only use them in the rear.

    X-Maxx, Slash 4x4 LCG, ZMR250 Quadcopter

  29. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by Max6XMaxx View Post
    After about 20 pairs of battery packs, I decided it was time to take a look at my rear diff. The ring gear is perfect and shows very little wear, but the pinion shows significant wear and one tooth has a small chip taken out of it. For how rough I am with the truck, I'm not dissatisfied at all with the diff's durability so far. Perhaps that's because I've owned an E-Revo BL for a few years! So I'm installing a new pinion that I have on hand when I put the truck back together tomorrow morning. Good thing I caught it before it tore up the ring gear. I'm still undecided about upgrading to the machined, spiral-cut units. If I do, I'll likely only use them in the rear.

    That pinion looks like it is brand new compared to what about 8 pinions that I have thrown away now. I would have no issue to continue running it.

    But on average, about every hr worth of run time I kill a Ring or Pinion or both together.

  30. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattpopp View Post
    That pinion looks like it is brand new compared to what about 8 pinions that I have thrown away now. I would have no issue to continue running it.

    But on average, about every hr worth of run time I kill a Ring or Pinion or both together.
    Have you done any shimming? Only reason i ask is that sounds excessive for any car or truck. Perhaps your bulkheads have flaws in the molding. I've seen that before on slash 4x4s.
    Man i need more than 50 characters.

  31. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattpopp View Post
    That pinion looks like it is brand new compared to what about 8 pinions that I have thrown away now. I would have no issue to continue running it.

    But on average, about every hr worth of run time I kill a Ring or Pinion or both together.
    I also think you may have another issue. My pinion gear looked nearly new after 3 months and with the last 5 runs on 8s.

    Last edited by E-Maxxdude; 03-21-2016 at 10:55 AM.

  32. #112
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    I wish the new kit would include pinion shims to get good backlash. That's the one thing that still concerns me, I'll see how it feels when I actually install my kit (s) this week.

  33. #113
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    E-Maxxdude, wow, those do look almost new!! Perhaps I should try shimming mine. I tried shimming the diffs in my E-Revo, but couldn't because the mesh was always too tight afterwards. Mind telling me what size shims people are using in their X-Maxx? I'm sure it's been posted already, so thanks in advance and sorry for being lazy.

  34. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by Max6XMaxx View Post
    E-Maxxdude, wow, those do look almost new!! Perhaps I should try shimming mine. I tried shimming the diffs in my E-Revo, but couldn't because the mesh was always too tight afterwards. Mind telling me what size shims people are using in their X-Maxx? I'm sure it's been posted already, so thanks in advance and sorry for being lazy.
    That I'm aware of, there are no shims available for the pinion. What Yosh wrote in the past was that he used the washers that come with the diff rebuild kit. I experimented with that but the washer is slightly too big to sit properly on the pinion base. Yosh used it that way, I'm going to pass on that. I'll see if a hardware store trip yields anything.

    As far as shimming to diff assembly to the bulkhead, no shimming is needed. It's sits perfectly with no side to side play.

  35. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by Max6XMaxx View Post
    E-Maxxdude, wow, those do look almost new!! Perhaps I should try shimming mine. I tried shimming the diffs in my E-Revo, but couldn't because the mesh was always too tight afterwards. Mind telling me what size shims people are using in their X-Maxx? I'm sure it's been posted already, so thanks in advance and sorry for being lazy.
    I also take them apart and regrease them with high quality synthetic grease.

  36. #116
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    Do we have a part number for shims that will work for the pinion?

  37. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    On a lighter note...I'm not saying these new diff ring gears are expensive or anything, but this guy wanted to trade me his car for my new Traxxas Xmaxx ring gears. I laughed, and told him nothing doing. These darn things are just too darn pricey for me to just give-em away. Anyway, I told him I wouldn't even consider trading unless he threw in a full tank of gas, and a new K&N racing air filter to go with the whole deal.

    Okay, since you went public, Ill throw in a tank of gas and a nice tree air freshener..
    X-Maxx - 8S Castle XLX/2028

  38. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheDerpz View Post
    That I'm aware of, there are no shims available for the pinion. What Yosh wrote in the past was that he used the washers that come with the diff rebuild kit. I experimented with that but the washer is slightly too big to sit properly on the pinion base. Yosh used it that way, I'm going to pass on that. I'll see if a hardware store trip yields anything.

    As far as shimming to diff assembly to the bulkhead, no shimming is needed. It's sits perfectly with no side to side play.
    That is correct, I did put it together, run it on the bench for a minute to let the bearing leave a wear mark on the shim, pull the shim back out and trim the over hang off with Lexan scissors. I honestly can say I got 3 or 4x the longevity out of my gears. I could trash a set every pack or two before shimming and after they lasted 7-8 packs of hard use before teeth started coming off. I think case flex is probably a part of the reason there loosing teeth too

  39. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by yoshgixxer View Post
    That is correct, I did put it together, run it on the bench for a minute to let the bearing leave a wear mark on the shim, pull the shim back out and trim the over hang off with Lexan scissors. I honestly can say I got 3 or 4x the longevity out of my gears. I could trash a set every pack or two before shimming and after they lasted 7-8 packs of hard use before teeth started coming off. I think case flex is probably a part of the reason there loosing teeth too
    I don't think I'm going to run mine until I can find some shims that fit. Hate to see a $45 ring and pinion set fail due to improper backlash. Gonna have to hit up the hobby shop and go through all the shims they sell and hope I hit paydirt. I emailed FastEddy in hopes he makes a shim kit for us. I really want to run this truck this week but it doesn't look good.

  40. #120
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    I measured the OD of the pinion were the bearing rides and it's much larger then any shim I could find for 1/8 scale diffs and I don't think any of the HPI or Losi 1/5 scales had diff shims. You could try MCD or Kraken as they make high end 1/5 race stuff and may use shims. I would NOT use the plastic diff shim with the new spiral steel gears as the mesh would be way to tight and those gear sets won't wear in like the soft stock gears. Still would pack case full of bearing grease though

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