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  1. #1
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    Traxxas Slayer Pro 4x4 Review (long)

    I bought my truck in Dec of 2015. It was my first Nitro and first RC in general.


    I will say first off that I do enjoy that slayer pro 4x4Öwhen it works. The build quality of the truck seems decent, and the engine puts down some good power after break in, but not for long. I will break this review down into sections of the truck for ease of reading.

    BODY

    The body of the truck is well built. Iíve crashed and banged it around pretty good and only have a small crack on the front of the truck and some scratches. Over all am impressed with this section compared to my other RC truck where the body is really tore up with less usage.

    CHASSIS

    What more can I say here, the chassis is aluminum and really strong. Have had no issues with the chassis.

    SUSPENSION

    The suspension is really nice on this truck. The aluminum bodyís and threaded shock towers make it easy to tune to your liking. The A arms are nice and thick and do seem strong however on that note they are stiff and do tend to break if there is a hard enough direct impact on them. Iíve broken 2 so far. The linkage is nice with it being all metal but again itís not the strongest and Iíve bent a tie rod. All in all I think itís a suitable suspension for this truck. Iíve installed the sway bars and did not notice a huge difference in performance. I think better tires trumps sway bars.

    TIRES.

    They suck. The tires are 1\10 scale tires on what is really a 1\8 scale truck, Even though Traxxas sells this as a 1\10 scale. Tires need to be better considering the power this thing makes stock. The tires need to be a little wider and need to have better grip. Even on concrete the tires spin and struggle to grip. Proline makes nice tires which are much better overall. I have switched to a different Traxxas tire and wider wheels.

    Transmission and drive train.

    The clutch shoes and the spur gear gave me some issues as well as the slipper clutch too. Iíve had the clutch shoes melt and the spring broke. The slipper clutch has completely exploded on me and the spur gear well Iíve been through at least 4 so far.

    The spur gear can be chalked up to me being new to the hobby but thatís not the case as I always checked the gear mesh prior to going out.
    (See engine mount in engine section)

    I recommend upgrading to the Heavy Duty Slipper Clutch at a bare minimum. New clutch shoes as well.

    Engine

    This will be the brunt of my complaints. This engine during break in was good. I followed the break in procedure to a T. Seemed to run good but it always ran hot, really hot. After break in the truck would run good for a few tanks and then temps would get high (over 300f) so Iíd have to shut it off. Went through 11 glow plugs and have torn the engine apart a hand full of times trying to figure this out. Engine was running lean. I re sealed every part of the engine with the new orings and RTV, as well as the fuel system but that did nothing. The carb was damaged from factory and was replaced by Traxxas. And the engine mount also bent after a jump causing gear mesh impossible to achieve. Iíve replaced:

    Carb assy complete (warranty from Traxxxas)
    Head shim
    All orings
    Exhaust couplers
    Glow plugs
    Fuel lines
    Starter (switched to pull start)
    Engine mount

    Still nothing worked. The engine continued to run hot and would burn out a glow plug every 3-5 mins of run time.

    I informed Traxxas of the issues and was told there was no warranty on the engine, I could opt to send the engine to them and have their techs look at it to determine what happen and that either I would get a new engine if they deem manufacture fault, or I pay $110usd for a new engine as part of the engine exchange program.

    For me being in Canada both options made little scents as the exchange program is not available local in Canada, and the 3.3 engine is right on par here brand new for around $170cdn.

    Iím sure a lot of people have had good experience with the 3.3 but Iím not one of them. I hate the 3.3 engine. Iíll never invest in another Traxxas engine for this truck. It has just put a sour taste in my mouth. Bought this truck as an RTR and expected to make it through a little more than a month before I had to tear the engine apart. Seems to me the engine is just too mass produced and QC is not as keen as you would expect from a company like Traxxas.

    After taking the 3.3 apart last night I noticed that it is leaking badly from every seal. The front bearing is dripping more than normal, the back plate is soaked in a pool of fuel and the head just will not seal even with Loctite.

    I opted to get the Dynamite .19 Traxxas replacement engine. Iím still doing the break in on it but I will say that so far Iím more impressed with this engine then I ever was with the 3.3. It seems as strong if not stronger. The temps are super consistent at 200-220f and nice blue smoke.

    This is a Dynamite engine and this is a Traxxas forum but is marketed as a drop in replacement for the 3.3/2.5, so I believe this engine should be allowed to be discussed on this forum and in all forms from performance, mods, and tuning advice.

    Iíd recommend just pulling the 3.3 and swapping to this .19. If youíre an experienced RC guy maybe the 3.3 is something you can work with but even then Iíve heard stories just like mine.

    The .19 also has a smaller head which I think is a plus as when you flip there is less chance of smacking the head on the ground and messing it up.

    The only down side for the .19 was that I had to file a bit of the rear A arm off in order to clear the pull start. The ez start I think will fit better and this engine comes equipped with a back plate for the ez start.


    Electronics

    The stock electronics seem ok at first; however I began to notice issues shortly after break in. The 2075 servo has held up well on the steering so far but the 2056 servo on the throttle gave out pretty quick. That was replaced by Traxxas at no cost to me with a new 2075 servo. However after only a few runs that servo gave out as well and was forced to pull the servo out of my ECX truck to keep the nitro running. The receiver and transmitter are good no issues there.

    Recommend getting better servos all around as the stock ones seem to have a high failure rate.




    In conclusion:

    I like this truck, I donít love it. I think for the money the little things I mentioned that id replace should already be the standard. I paid over $600 for the truck and have invested another $600 just to get it running semi normal. For that price I could have bought a sweet turbo kit for my 1:1 Car and actually had some fun.

    After replacing the engine, servos, tires, and clutch assy Iím almost at the point where I wish Iíd not bought it at all.

    Take what you want from this review, this is just my opinion and I know that not everyone will agree as I donít agree with everyone all the time either.


    Kenny.

  2. #2
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    Nice review.


    Please send link to $1200 turbo kit.
    Slash, Street Rally, 4x4 /Slash, Summit LT, Aton.

  3. #3
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    Decent write-up and there are many points where we will agree to disagree.

    As for the engine, I've had a few 3.3's and haven't had issues with them and I know many others here will say the same. Yet another group will side with you when it comes to the 3.3 (carb and rod are from a 2.5, seals leak, et al). I admit that I now have an O.S. .21TM in my Revo as I wanted a little more power, try something different, see what the "hype" was about and I had a little extra cash lying around. You admitted this is your first nitro and first RC in general (and broke it in and were running at cold temperatures - per your previous threads). It is very easy to come into nitro and assume that the engine will be the same as your lawnmower/chain saw/weed whip and require very little to learn - pull the cord and go. Far from the truth. The first nitro engine you will learn how to tune so it takes the brunt and abuse of learning and will not last as long as subsequent engines. Same goes for the clutch. Especially harder is the northern climate during winter. When I got my first nitro I had the same frustrations regarding the engine, saw the same temperatures, ate a few glow plugs, blew a clutch spring but I learned how to tune and care for it and the "problematic" engine wasn't so problematic. Through my tenure here I've helped countless newbies (many admitting they are auto mechanics or gear heads and still having difficulty) to nitro that have the same issues as you describe and most of them think the same thing: "Has to be an engine issue, it's not my issue." Sometimes it is an engine issue but most of the time it is operator. Take it however you want but I'm not laying blame or pointing fingers; it is a pure fact by reading hundreds of threads in the Revo, T-Maxx, Slayer, Engine and other nitro forums here that there is a common theme. Most people will blame the Traxxas engine (which is their first), vow to never buy a Traxxas one again and purchase another brand and "magically" the problems go away. Hmm. By the time your first nitro engine dies after around 3-4 gallons you've pretty much understood the tuning process and the next aftermarket brand engine gets praised for being so superior. No matter what engine you cut your tuning teeth on you will have the same issues until you get it down. Once you learn your consumption of glow plugs and clutches will decrease.

    I'm not asking you to prove you've paid $600 to get it semi-running but I'm having a hard time believing as the .19 is around (US prices) $110, tires $50, pull start $15, glow plus $5-8/each, mount $15 and all other parts are $5-10 each. $200-250 is believable but $600 seems to be a stretch.

    One thing I will strongly disagree with and it pertains to the rules: this is a Traxxas forum and support for Traxxas products only will be allowed. You bought a Dynamite engine (I bought O.S.) so their respective companies would need to provide support for their products. Sure it is a direct fit - but so are RPM arms, Buku Clutch, THS pipe, Integy junk and numerous other products that are manufactured for the truck but that does not mean Traxxas has to provide support for their products? You bought from Traxxas, they provide this forum. Buy from another company and it is their responsibility to pay for product support. Would you call Ford and expect them to help you out with a Vortech blower? Why would Chevy want to talk to you about helping to troubleshoot Hennessy's N/A engine upgrades? Honda for your said $1200 turbo? If you manufactured and sold a product would you deny talking to your customer about a product they bought from me designed to work with yours? Yep.

    No matter what RC forum you go to - whether it be Losi, HPI or a general RC - you will find those that love their vehicles but others say they are junk. It's a matter of opinion. Naturally here in a Traxxas forum we have a bias and love our vehicles yet there are those that think otherwise and rightfully have their opinion.
    Last edited by Double G; 03-15-2016 at 08:23 PM.
    The Super Derecho

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by elDax View Post
    Nice review.


    Please send link to $1200 turbo kit.
    http://www.irozmotorsport.com/k26-billet/

    Add 250 give or take for injectors and another 200 for seals and an oil change. Right around 315whp at 6000rpm and 380lbtq at 3500rpm. Hard to say that would not be fun.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Morris400 View Post
    http://www.irozmotorsport.com/k26-billet/

    Add 250 give or take for injectors and another 200 for seals and an oil change. Right around 315whp at 6000rpm and 380lbtq at 3500rpm. Hard to say that would not be fun.
    Not too shabby, if you have all the piping and wastegate! I was wondering though, when you said "kit" I was like, no way you found a kit for $1200, lol. I'm working on swapping out the Ko3 for a Ko4 in my poor little Volkswagen go-kart haha.

    As to the topic at hand, my first Traxxas was a nitro way back in the day. I never could get it right. It was me, switched to electric and been happy ever since.
    Slash, Street Rally, 4x4 /Slash, Summit LT, Aton.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Double G View Post
    Decent write-up and there are many points where we will agree to disagree.

    As for the engine, I've had a few 3.3's and haven't had issues with them and I know many others here will say the same. Yet another group will side with you when it comes to the 3.3 (carb and rod are from a 2.5, seals leak, et al). I admit that I now have an O.S. .21TM in my Revo as I wanted a little more power, try something different, see what the "hype" was about and I had a little extra cash lying around. You admitted this is your first nitro and first RC in general (and broke it in and were running at cold temperatures - per your previous threads). It is very easy to come into nitro and assume that the engine will be the same as your lawnmower/chain saw/weed whip and require very little to learn - pull the cord and go. Far from the truth. The first nitro engine you will learn how to tune so it takes the brunt and abuse of learning and will not last as long as subsequent engines. Same goes for the clutch. Especially harder is the northern climate during winter. When I got my first nitro I had the same frustrations regarding the engine, saw the same temperatures, ate a few glow plugs, blew a clutch spring but I learned how to tune and care for it and the "problematic" engine wasn't so problematic. Through my tenure here I've helped countless newbies (many admitting they are auto mechanics or gear heads and still having difficulty) to nitro that have the same issues as you describe and most of them think the same thing: "Has to be an engine issue, it's not my issue." Sometimes it is an engine issue but most of the time it is operator. Take it however you want but I'm not laying blame or pointing fingers; it is a pure fact by reading hundreds of threads in the Revo, T-Maxx, Slayer, Engine and other nitro forums here that there is a common theme. Most people will blame the Traxxas engine (which is their first), vow to never buy a Traxxas one again and purchase another brand and "magically" the problems go away. Hmm. By the time your first nitro engine dies after around 3-4 gallons you've pretty much understood the tuning process and the next aftermarket brand engine gets praised for being so superior. No matter what engine you cut your tuning teeth on you will have the same issues until you get it down. Once you learn your consumption of glow plugs and clutches will decrease.

    I'm not asking you to prove you've paid $600 to get it semi-running but I'm having a hard time believing as the .19 is around (US prices) $110, tires $50, pull start $15, glow plus $5-8/each, mount $15 and all other parts are $5-10 each. $200-250 is believable but $600 seems to be a stretch.

    One thing I will strongly disagree with and it pertains to the rules: this is a Traxxas forum and support for Traxxas products only will be allowed. You bought a Dynamite engine (I bought O.S.) so their respective companies would need to provide support for their products. Sure it is a direct fit - but so are RPM arms, Buku Clutch, THS pipe, Integy junk and numerous other products that are manufactured for the truck but that does not mean Traxxas has to provide support for their products? You bought from Traxxas, they provide this forum. Buy from another company and it is their responsibility to pay for product support. Would you call Ford and expect them to help you out with a Vortech blower? Why would Chevy want to talk to you about helping to troubleshoot Hennessy's N/A engine upgrades? Honda for your said $1200 turbo? If you manufactured and sold a product would you deny talking to your customer about a product they bought from me designed to work with yours? Yep.

    No matter what RC forum you go to - whether it be Losi, HPI or a general RC - you will find those that love their vehicles but others say they are junk. It's a matter of opinion. Naturally here in a Traxxas forum we have a bias and love our vehicles yet there are those that think otherwise and rightfully have their opinion.

    As for the parts list it is right around 575-600 mark. Remember things up in Canada cost 1/3 more at least. I've gone through 11 glow plugs at 7.99 each that's at least 90 bucks. Everything else adds up to be quite expensive and I did not include the 60 bucks in fuel. I can provide the list with prices because I keep track of that stuff for all my cars and hobbies.

    Yes I admitted it was my first nitro and rc....and yes I'll take some responsibility for some of the broken things. A arms and skid plates Ect but I kept the engine at stock settings and still had trouble. Traxxas replaced the faulty carb and admitted fault.

    Let's call it 50 50 split on the fault factor.

    As for the forum rules. I can only again say my opinion and that this forum weather run by traxxas or a third party should promote both the advancement of the Hobbie as well as the product in question. Since these truck have been around for some time this should be a place people turn for help weather or not there running a 3.3 or a .19 or even a picco. As long as your running a traxxas truck you should be able to ask how to questions or get advise on your truck even if powered by another company's power plant.

    I'll say again, I like this truck but the engine has turned me off of traxxas engines...not traxxas products in total


    Maybe I got unlucky and got an engine built on a Friday at 3:45 pm right before summer vacation.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by elDax View Post
    Not too shabby, if you have all the piping and wastegate! I was wondering though, when you said "kit" I was like, no way you found a kit for $1200, lol. I'm working on swapping out the Ko3 for a Ko4 in my poor little Volkswagen go-kart haha.

    As to the topic at hand, my first Traxxas was a nitro way back in the day. I never could get it right. It was me, switched to electric and been happy ever since.
    Had ko4s in my old B5 S4 and the k04 is a good turbo. Lots of low end tq. Also have a 2015 tiggy and if the wife let's me she's getting a drop and a k04 at least.

    There is not really kits per say for my car but piecing thing together is cheaper in most cases anyway.

    The 92-94 S4 was build so well that the stock intake and exhaust Manifold can support the k26. Not ideal but for that 1200 mark I'd have done it. Stock wastgate is good too. Seems older is build better . Much happier with my 94 s4 over the 2001 S4.

    I do have an electric RC as well and it is fun but I much perfer the nitro power and sound. Electric is my go to when I have no time to maintain it and just want to bash for a bit after kids go to bed.

    Keeping the electric more so for the kids but that needs a new esc first.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Morris400 View Post
    Had ko4s in my old B5 S4 and the k04 is a good turbo. Lots of low end tq. Also have a 2015 tiggy and if the wife let's me she's getting a drop and a k04 at least.

    There is not really kits per say for my car but piecing thing together is cheaper in most cases anyway.

    The 92-94 S4 was build so well that the stock intake and exhaust Manifold can support the k26. Not ideal but for that 1200 mark I'd have done it. Stock wastgate is good too. Seems older is build better . Much happier with my 94 s4 over the 2001 S4.

    I do have an electric RC as well and it is fun but I much perfer the nitro power and sound. Electric is my go to when I have no time to maintain it and just want to bash for a bit after kids go to bed.

    Keeping the electric more so for the kids but that needs a new esc first.
    Yea, my turbo car is more like a go-kart...ko4 is big turbo for it, lol.

    The statement I put in bold is exactly why I run electric.
    Slash, Street Rally, 4x4 /Slash, Summit LT, Aton.

  9. #9
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Morris400 View Post

    As for the forum rules. I can only again say my opinion and that this forum weather run by traxxas or a third party should promote both the advancement of the Hobbie as well as the product in question. Since these truck have been around for some time this should be a place people turn for help weather or not there running a 3.3 or a .19 or even a picco. As long as your running a traxxas truck you should be able to ask how to questions or get advise on your truck even if powered by another company's power plant.
    Again, this is a privately funded forum paid for by Traxxas. We don't have to pay to sign up, there is no outside advertisement and we do not have to provide a proof of purchase to join. It is free to anyone. Since they pay, they set the rules and their rules - not mine - are that this Traxxas forum is for support of Traxxas products only.

    https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...ommunity-goals &

    https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...ts-amp-engines
    The Super Derecho

  10. #10
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    The dynamite engine sounds great for the money. But where to buy replaceme t piston/sleeve. Cant seem to find it??
    nitro rusty, t-maxx and 2 revo 3.3's. Slash 4/4 bl

  11. #11
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    the engine works really good. I'm quite happy with the power and TQ from it. I'm not sure about replacement parts for it but considering the low cost of the engine compared to others id say if the engine internals need replaced just get a new engine. that's what ill be doing when or if that happens.

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    did run into suspension issues. the rear mount for the shocks blew out and striped the holes for the screws. not a biggie...looks like a lot of tear down to replace that part so for now ive glued it with a strong glue and I'm hoping it hold unti I do a full tear down and rebuild.

  13. #13
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    Mosrris400, it is unfortunate that you had problems with the 3.3.

    I have couple of revos that I quired trough exchanges, buys etc and man I am for ever impressed with my expereince. Not to mention I also got another 3.3 off a memebre and that engine is still running strong after I do not even recall any more how many tanks I have gone trough it....

    I have two other 2.5 engines that I will powerup directly trough traxxas and not surehow much I will end up at customs but it is still cheaper than trough the lhs for the same engine; 3.3.


    I have rebuilt two 3.3 and trying one out at the moement with slight issues but hopefully that I will resolve this weekend. As for th .19 dynamite I am running more issues than I had imagined, it runs but leaks somewhere...some how and I cannot even get repair kist for it even when I had sent an e-mail, so will figure out how to have it sealed some how or change bearings.
    Live life to the fullest

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    I've managed to rip through a jug (4L) of fuel so far on the .19 and the only issue I really have is the idle is higher then id like. if I lower the idle it wont start. other then that its been flawless. and its been a hard jug of fuel let me tell you. lots of WOT pulls and lots of jumps with hard landings. it keep going though.

    out here the LHS sells 3.3 for just shy of 200cdn, through Traxxas power up program it would be 110usd plus shipping on both ends and customs. not to mention a wait as well. LHS may end up being a few dollars more but in the long run its an easier process.

    I may give the 3.3 another shot in the future .... that's a maybe though, I'm pretty but hurt that it failed in the time frame that it did. and not to mention the DYN .19 has put up with my abuse and that's very impressive.

    nothing against Traxxas but im pretty sure my next RC will be a lOSI. Not cause their better or worse but because id like to experience their products first hand and judge for myself what is better for my intended usage...and if I can manage to find a 3.4 I can use my new 3,4 carb that wont work on the .19.

  15. #15
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    Morris400, You really should try and read the skill level on the box. They are there for a reason. I bet if you had the nitro rustler you'd be saying the same thing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jrmcmlln View Post
    Morris400, You really should try and read the skill level on the box. They are there for a reason. I bet if you had the nitro rustler you'd be saying the same thing.
    Thank you for your comment. I did read the box and the manual and went over the forum Ect before I started the truck. The skill level on the truck was never an issue, and things that did break I've fixed. Atb this point I've completely rebuild the engine, tranny , suspension, !ND I've had this truck down to the bare chassis. I don't think my skill level is sub par for this truck. I've not complained that I don't know what I'm doing I've complained they parts have failed before they should have.

    The trucks are more finicky as far an engine tuning but are much easier to work on then my own project cars. I have a mechanical background and have enough experience doing that to be on par with the skill level of a 1/10 scale rc truck.

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    "I kept the engine at stock settings"

    No such animal my friend. You start at factory settings- 4 turn out HSN, LSN flush with outer ring, idle gap at .7-1mm. That's just to get it to start. Then you adjust it to get it to idle. Once up to running temps, then you start tuning. I have many different nitro engines and they all have a different personality. My 3.3's have proven to be no better, and no worse than any others. As you gain experience, I'd put money on your ability to tune the 3.3. You'll get it, hang in there. Glow plug parts in the engine are an almost guaranteed sign of extreme lean condition. You can have the HSN set to blubbery fat but if the LSN is lean, it will still cause issues. Think of the two needles as a balancing act. One affects the balance of the other. Many times I have found myself richening the LSN by 1 hour while leaning the HSN the same amount. I'm new to this forum and I was surprised when I noticed that 90% of the threads are "my engine won't run right". But then I realized that for many, the Traxxas 3.3 is their first exposure to nitro. And that explained a lot. Lol, when I learned to tune an engine, there was no internet. Talk about winging it. And I swear I still have scars from pull starters. Admittedly, EZ-Start has made me lazy. The 3.3 in this Slayer is a beast. The 3.3 in my Slash is just heinously overpowered. Have fun.

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    I'll set my dial to optimistically skeptical on the engine. I had whatever was in the original Revo and it ran OK but not great. I was living in Colorado at the time and my elevation (6300+ feet) had something to do with that I think. However, my wife had a Hot Bodies .21 and it ran like a beast out of the box and all day long. We broke both engines in together with a more experienced nitro friend.

    I asked the wrench guy at my LHS what he thought of the 3.3 and he said it was a fine choice, so I decided to give it a chance. I won't get it till Friday tho so I was just lurking here.

    I hope the servos last. I've had mixed experiences with Traxxas servo's in the past, but the ones in the Summit haven't failed me yet.

    PS. Getting a nitro because electric is more of a hassle :P
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  19. #19
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    The 3.3 in this Slayer is a beast.
    Just finished the break in, and yeah, it is.
    0111001101101001011001110000110100001010

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    Think about how many Traxxas TRX 2.5's and 3.3's are out there running on any given day. Thousands upon thousands. And there are not usually at the hands of meticulous racers, who tear down and clean/check every couple runs. These are at the hands of people that run them extremely hard, often slightly lean and they get put away dirty on a shelf in the garage if they're lucky. Fuel gets left in tanks, they are run hard before they warm up, air filters don't get changed as often as they should, if at all. And yet they still run like banshees. I'm always skeptical when someone comes around and says they are bad engines, given what I know about them and have experienced myself, they are pretty good in my book. And, as crazy as this sounds to even myself, they really do seem to run better on Traxxas fuel. My engine temps went down enough that I had to re tune the engine. On my N Slash, I just started out with Traxxas fuel from break in and it's coming along nicely.

    This Revo inspired suspension is really neat to watch work. I can't think of anything else like it. I'm still learning the nuances of how it works so I can understand how to tune it.

  21. #21
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    This Revo inspired suspension is really neat to watch work. I can't think of anything else like it.
    Yup. This is my 4th Traxxas with that design. Its simply amazing.

    I ran tanks 7 and 8 today. The 2075 servo died on tank 6, literally first run after break in. I was not happy, but Traxxas replaced it. I put in a super high torque Savox and that problem was solved. I'll keep the replacement in the parts box for a rainy day, literally.

    I had to richen the HSN about 1/4 turn and that dropped engine temps from a little over 300 to about 250 in grass. It runs great; strong, stays lit just fine. The 3.3 has my favor so far.

    I love having an actual brake as opposed to what brushless is like to drive. The 2 speed is nice, it produces nice top speed and low end torque. Had to loosen it up a bit for break in, but put it back as soon as I was done. The slipper got loose twice during break in, tightened it up a bit tighter than I wanted to keep it set but it seems to be taking it fine.

    All in all great "fun out of the box without much fuss" truck.
    0111001101101001011001110000110100001010

  22. #22
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    11
    Yes, as you likely know, rtr radio systems are notoriously low end across the board. Of all the Traxxas servos, the 2075 spec wise is not that bad. It's definitely one of the better rtr servos out there. Depending on whether or not I plan to make a track project out of it, I usually replace the servos in any rtr straight away. Not necessarily race spec, 200+ oz and <.10 but definitely 120-150 and <.16. On my Slayer and N Slash, I want to keep the TSM and wireless/telemetry link so that's as far as I'll go with them. For bashing and practice day, fun run track use, the TQi system seems to work just fine.

    One of the things I don't care for regarding the Slayer is the weird chassis design. It's near impossible to keep dirt and debris out of the chassis. I bought an Outerwears dust cover made for the ERevo that with a little ingenuity, should protect the front half of the chassis. But regardless it's a task to clean and service after a days run. I also picked up some Blockades and mounted them to stock Slayer wheels. This and the sway bar kit should make for a fun track day here shortly. I've got the center diff to install if the truck has issues rotating due to the center slipper. Looking forward to that. I absolutely love glow powered cars and Traxxas makes it easy with the EZStart.

  23. #23
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    91
    Figured I'd update this as I've been away of late.

    Swapped out the dynamite .19 engine and rebuilt the 3.3. Not a full rebuild but new carb (losi 3.4) and some other small parts like new gaskets and Oring. Still running same piston and sleeve. I had no issues with the dynamite engine...in fact it runs very well but the issue is with the carb. The retaining pin stripped twice now and the carb comes loose.

    Figured I'd give the 3.3 another shot while I see if I can source parts for the .19. If the 3.3 holds a tune and ruNS strong the I'll keep it in until it's worn out completely.

    I fired it up today just to see if it would idle and did a couple 1/4 throttle pulls. Pulls quite nice and sounds good. Did not run it long as the truck still need some work and I was limited in time.

    Will update later when I get the truck out and running for a few tanks. Big worrie here is running lean as before and going through plugs every 1/2 tank.

  24. #24
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
    15
    I just got a Slayer as well. It was running top notch. Idled perfect, the power was nice. I kept the temp between 240-280 tops. Usually it was around 260. All of a sudden at half throttle it died. I thought the engine had seized. It was very very hard to spin the flywheel either direction which I thought was odd. So i took the motor apart, everything still looked new. Found out that the One way bearing failed and was completely seized and also seized onto the shaft. It took a torch, a hammer, and a punch to get the thing off. Well now my starter shaft and back plate are now junk. Luckily I had a 20 dollar gift certificate from ordering the slayer, so I ordered a new bearing. Then about 20 mins later I checked my email and tower had sent me a 15 dollar gift certificate. So that covered the starter shaft and 2 day shipping. Sweet! Then today I got paid so I ordered the back plate, sway bar kit, a couple 36t spur gears for back ups, hot racing 3 shoe clutch with lightened flywheel, only 20 bucks so I said why not. Ill still have the stocker for back up. I ordered a savox 1258t steering servo because my 2075 is kinda wonky the 8 tanks I drove it. Sometimes when I turned right it wouldnt go back to center position. So i said screw it, Ill just buy a new servo so when that one breaks ill have a spare, I ordered another OWB so now Ill have 2. and i also ordered another quart of traxxas 20%. I already went through a full quart breaking it in. I dont know what cause the bearing to seize so prematurely, and when I inspected the bearing on its shaft, it was definitely crooked. If you turned the starter shaft, the bearing wobbled. I am kinda disappointed. I love the truck, Ive been out of the hobby for years and I was having an absolute blast with it. Then it just went boom. Only 8 tanks in. I hope the new bearing, shaft, and plate will last longer than the original did. I dont know if i did something wrong? I followed the break in procedure to a T. I guess something just fail, and I hope the new one lasts. I really like this truck. I think next pay check I will be looking into a single chamber resonator. I heard they give more low end power. I dont have long straights to really need the mid to high end power the duel chamber makes. I do have a lot of space to run its just not long enough for that and I also have a lot of hills. It did make some pretty good power though, I was impressed. Got it to hook up good a few times and do 3 inch wheelies. That is something to say for a stock slayer. Are the sway bars worth the money? She is a bit tippy when going fast. If it starts to speed wobble you better be ready to ease up on the throttle. Will the sway bars eliminate the high speed wobbling? Also, anyone have any problems with the stock clutch? I've heard the hot racing 3 shoe clutch kit isn't the best, but it was cheap. So I don't mind trying it out. Anyone have any experience with that clutch?

  25. #25
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    11
    Maybe Traxxas will cover that failed part under warranty? That definitely is strange and from what I can tell, not the norm with this truck. A while back when I got mine, I followed the Traxxas break in procedure as closely as I could, then ran another 7-8 tanks through it fairly rich and very light on the throttle. I'm at about 30 tanks now and the engine runs perfectly. Starts easily, idles forever and has tons of power. Here in Georgia, it's been really hot, like triple digit heat index for weeks. I've noticed that even slightly rich my engine comes off the track at 270-305 after 10 minutes of race speed laps. Nice smoke trail, thicker plume when exiting a corner and you can hear a slight gurgle going from lower speeds until it clears out. Any richer and it doesn't run right. It cools right down to 220 quickly once I bring it back to the pit ramp. I was going to start a new thread documenting what I thought of the truck after a few track days but I guess putting it here makes sense. I did the break in on the street box stock down to the tires. However, before putting it on the track I installed the sway bar kit, stock wheels with Pro-Line Blockades M3. I checked the camber and toe to ensure it was mirrored all around , set the ride height to arms level and had at it. First off, coming from my 1/10 buggies, this thing drives like a truck! Lol. It took a few tanks to get a feel for how it would react. But after that, I was surprised how easy it was to turn pretty fast laps. It would traction roll if you pushed to hard in a corner but I was able to learn how to modulate the throttle and break the rear end loose a bit so it could rotate. Three things I noticed that need attention though; the 2075 steering servo, while pretty good for a RTR, really affected the truck through high speed slaloms. It could not keep up and by the third turn I was starting to feel like the truck was a little bit behind where I felt the truck should actually be. So I've got some faster, .11/270oz servos on the way to fix this. The second thing was the shocks are just too stiff. The weight of the truck does compress them but they are unable to react quickly to the track. Basically, the suspension does not feel "plush" and the truck smashed down instead of absorbing the irregularities on the track surface. So I decided to start out with Slaydens setup of Double Black, double purple with 4x 1.2 variable rate pistons. I didn't have any 45w oil so I used 35w front and 30w rear. I haven't run it yet but night and day; though I did order some 45w because I don't think there's enough pack, especially in the rear. Being that that setup is designed for the original Slayer, I may have to go one step heavier on the springs to be deal with the extra weight of the Pro. The third thing is gearing. On my racecar's I've got the spur and pinion to deal with. Easy. With the Slayer Pro, not only do you have the clutch Bell and spur, but the internal gears, gear ratio width and second gear shift point. All of which need to be dialed in to the particular track youre running on. Mine is way off; in 2nd when I need it to be in 1st, shift into 2nd to early on the back stretch. FDR to high for the track.

    I didn't list it as and issue yet because fixing the other three might help but the truck as it sits doesn't handle 1/8 size jumps very well. Even little ones. It doesn't leave the apex right and definitely doesn't fly very good. Besides the other things listed, I did order a clear body for it and will experiment with cutouts to reduce parachuting. With fixes to the suspension, hopefully I can get it to leave the jumps fairly level. I ordered the center diff kit and rear brake system so hopefully that will increase my ability to control pitch in the air. All in all, the truck is pretty awesome and I was surprised at its good track manners. It's definitely a different flavor compared to my other buggies and SCT'S that's for sure.
    Last edited by Phantom56; 08-18-2016 at 10:32 AM.

  26. #26
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
    15
    All has been well now after I installed all the new parts. I installed my sway bar kit which helps tremendously. Now when doing a high speed pass and it decides to get squirrely, it doesnt lose control and cart wheel. It just stays planted to the ground. It is a MUST for an upgrade in my opinion. I just installed my losi 3.4 carb last night and I can already tell it is going to be 10 times better. Throttle response, power, idle, everything is just so much better now. My suspension seems fine seeing i am only bashing. I would like better tires but it is fun to drift in my sandy, gravel driveway. I got pretty good at doing that. Over all, I love this truck now. I havent had any more issues other than my 3.3 HSN stripping the plastic carb body somehow, but I wasnt going to keep that carb anyways. Gave me a good excuse to install the Losi 3.4 carb I bought a while back.

  27. #27
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Posts
    1
    Just read through this forum, and wanted to throw my two cents in. Seven runs from new on my Slayer. Broken header, broken ez start, and now a broken connecting rod. I had the desirable "blue smoke" on every run. Customer service hasn't left me feeling all that good about the situation. Shipped it back to Traxxas today for "warranty inspection". I can only hope they can make this situation right.

  28. #28
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    13,496
    Welcome to the forum!

    Traxxas CS is one of the best in the business as expressed by many members here in the forum.

    Questions: do you have previous experience in nitro? Did you properly break-in the engine per the manual? Did you ever crash or roll the truck? Do you let the engine warm up at all before going wide-open throttle? Did you open the engine and see what color the piston is?
    The Super Derecho

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