Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 40 of 64
  1. #1
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    The ICT!
    Posts
    943

    Apocalyptic Summit LT conversion

    I have decided that I have too much monster truck in my life, and not enough crawling. This thread will be my take on the Summit LT, or Summit 2.2 conversion. If you just crawled out form under a rock (see what I did there), the Summit LT is basically fitting Slayer suspension to a Summit, then swapping out the monster truck tires for a more realistic looking 2.2 tire. The end result is a more scale looking trail/crawler rig that is about the size of an Axial Wraith. In comparison to a Wraith, what the Summit lacks in scale appearance, is easily overcome by, sheer toughness, having way more power, a two speed transmission, and locking differentials. My goals for this build are simple. Make a Summit more scale"ish", and make a independent suspension truck that can keep up with the best of the mainstream solid axle trucks.

    It is probably going to take me a month or two to get this completed, so stay tuned for updates. I have some fun motor things coming, plus a few ideas I hope to pull off.

    With that out of the way, I started with the body. It was just too nice yesterday to be stuck in the house doing chassis work. The body I am using is the Summit Apocalypse body by Pro-Line. At the time of this writing it is $33 and change. http://www.prolineracing.com/bodies/...se-clear-body/ Now, I know what you are thinking, "You said scale looking and you choose the most unusual body ever." There is a method to my madness. Everyone knows what a Chevy Blazer or a Ford F-250 looks like, and it is easy to spot the "out of scale" differences with those bodies. With the Apocalypse body, your only point of known reference is something you saw in a Mad Max movie. The other thing is that I wanted to keep the Summit's exo-skeleton. It's a cool looking feature, and actually functional on the Summit. This body is the only one where I thought I could both pull off some scale looks, and retain the exo-skeleton. Plus I think it looks just sick!

    The last picture of the stock Summit next to the clear Pro-Line body.




    After cutting out the body, and roughing out the windows with a Dremel, I painted the inside with a little black paint and then some metallic silver. After that, I poured some Acetone into the shell to ruin the paint job (as you can see here). Again, there is a method to my madness. I wanted it to look dirty and ruined.




    I also Dremeled on it a bit more and added some "bullet holes". Hideous isn't it? Bare metal was the look I wanted for this stage of the body. I backed it with flat black.




    With the inside painted up, I then sanded the OUTSIDE of the body. After that, I hit it pretty liberally with OD Green camouflage paint from a rattle can. As you may or may not know, it is impossible to achieve a flat paint job on an RC with a Lexan body...unless you paint the outside. I purposefully used standard spray paint, as I want it to chip and flake after taking a beating. Once this happens, the silver "bare metal" I used for the inside of the body should show through. The goal being to get a natural beat up and wrecked look after I crash it or grind it up against some rocks.




    While I had it apart, I hit the exo-skeleton with some flat black paint. Since the Summit had already been used there is some nice "damage" already. Perfect. Scale is all about the details, so after this step I swapped out all of the hex bolts on the cage for some nice stainless steel ones. The contrast should look pretty good. Not pictured here, but I also rounded up some standard screen door screen to use for a chain link look inside the windows. It should also be noted, I purposefully did a terrible job Dremeling out the window holes. In the Apocalypse, nobody worries much about aesthetics.




    Now things are starting to come together. I installed the screen with Shoe Goo on the inside, and got my cage all put back together with the new hex bolts. I completely forgot about the fender flare's old hardware...I may have to run back up to the hardware store and pick up some new bolts...although I like the rusty look of the old ones if I'm honest. Hmmm...




    Finally, I applied some decals and I took after it with a black Sharpie to outline some of the doors and add a little detail to it. I also took my mini butane blow torch and heated the body up in places, then pressed random tools from my garage into the hot spots to create authentic dents and damage. I also hit the bullet holes with the torch to give them a little character. I'm loving the look, can't wait to get some real dirt and mud on it.











    That's about it for the body! Next step, suspension. Coming soon!
    Slash, Street Rally, 4x4 /Slash, Summit LT, Aton.

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. jamann's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Victoria B.C Canada
    Posts
    5,622
    Looking good man
    Mountains cant stop me
    they have tried

  3. #3
    RC Qualifier WonderMelon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Myerstown, Pennsylvania
    Posts
    957
    Not good, GREAT!!! I love it! Most people thing about customizing their rc car/truck by what's "under the hood" but the body and things you've done with it look great! I think the rusty screws look good! If the screws on the exoskeleton were a little rusty too that would look better but it still looks awesome!!
    Last edited by WonderMelon; 04-04-2016 at 02:33 PM. Reason: Spelling

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    The ICT!
    Posts
    943
    Quote Originally Posted by jamann View Post
    Looking good man
    Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by WonderMelon View Post
    Not good, GREAT!!! I love it! Most people thing about customizing their rc car/truck by what's "under the hood" but the body and things you've done with it look great! I think the rusty screws look good! If the screws on the exoskeleton were a little rusty too that would look better but it still looks awesome!!
    Thanks!

    Under the hood on this one will be pretty cool too once I get to that part, but thanks! Yea, I'm on the fence with the new screws...the old ones with the rust in the fenders do look better. Might have to go find the old ones and swap them out on the cage, lol. I'll see what I have laying around in the parts bin later when I start pulling off the suspension tonight.
    Slash, Street Rally, 4x4 /Slash, Summit LT, Aton.

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier WonderMelon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Myerstown, Pennsylvania
    Posts
    957
    I focus what's under the hood lol. Yes, the body you painted and customized looks AWESOME! But me, I bash my Rustler... And the bodies I buy always get messed up rather quickly. Just like when I was trying my new body out and what do you know! (I had my stampede body)'my car flips over and slides down this hill... Road... I caught it because I couldn't stand looking at it XD the stampede body lays perfectly on an angle and put four new holes it in! D: but I can't wait to see what you'll do with the suspension!

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    The ICT!
    Posts
    943
    Suspension work...and go!




    Here is a shot of the front end, left side stock Summit arm, right side Slayer arm. Really narrows things up!





    First issue to come up. The differentials in a Summit are much larger than the differentials on a Slayer, so the arms don't quite clear on one side. This will limit up travel on that side and must be "fixed".





    Here is a close up of the clearance issue. My hex tool is resting on the lumpy side of the differential. The cross brace support must be hacked from the arm.





    Problem solved. The downside is that you are probably weakening the arm to some extent, but if you are doing this conversion chances are you are wanting more trail truck and rock crawler and less "jump 20 feet in the air and crash land". This Summit's days of pretending to be a Revo are officially over.





    Same thing must be done on the rear end of the Summit. Again, one side of the differential is just too lumpy to work with Slayer arms.





    In this picture, and the one posted a couple up from here, I choose to remove the cross brace supports from both arms. You don't need to do both, as the interference is only on one side. I choose to do both because OCD is a real thing, lol.





    And now we finally have full droop in the front....





    And full flex in the front.





    Full droop in the rear....





    And full flex in the rear.




    To be continued....
    Slash, Street Rally, 4x4 /Slash, Summit LT, Aton.

  7. #7
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    The ICT!
    Posts
    943
    Things I need to address...

    I forgot to order new steering links, part (Traxxas 5939) I hope. I also have a new set of pillow ball booties in route, as mine were destroyed beyond belief.



    I will also need to order new rocker arms, part (Traxxas 5358) I hope. I thought I could get away with the long travel ones that come on the Summit stock. In the front I probably can, but in the rear there is a clearance problem with the upper arms and the push rod. Seen here from above.





    I'm also going to have to do something about the springs. The stock Summit springs are extremely stiff. I thought that they would be rather soft, but I guess they have to be pretty beefy to hold up all the weight and leverage themselves against the long stock arms. With the Slayer arms there is just not enough leverage to compress them easily.

    Not sure what I'm going to do here yet. Might try softer springs, or I might swap out the shocks entirely for some spares I have from my Slash 4x4s. They are smaller, but have a longer travel, which might come in handy for the purpose of this build. I will probably do this last after I have things back together and can do some testing with the full weight of the truck.





    I ordered up some Slayer wheels as I already had some aluminum 14mm hub hexes. Side note: Slash wheels use 12mm hub hex, Slayer uses 14mm. Now you know, and knowing is half the battle. As I was cleaning things up a got lucky with the bearings. They were still in pretty good shape, so I re-packed them and plan to re-use them.


    I'm still working on which tires to go with. Definitely going to get 2.2s and hack them up to fit short course wheels. I'm pretty settled in on getting some Pro-Line Interco Super Swampers, but I cannot decide if I want the big ones or the little ones. Any input you have is much appreciated.





    I've decided at this point to try my hand at hacking up and shortening the stock drive shafts. If I fail at this, then I will upgrade to some MIPs. As things sit tonight after stage one....

    Slash, Street Rally, 4x4 /Slash, Summit LT, Aton.

  8. #8
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    ohio
    Posts
    3
    looks awesome! I may steal your idea body wise, as I have been looking into turning mine into a mad max/apocalyptic thing.

  9. #9
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    The ICT!
    Posts
    943
    Quote Originally Posted by dsscheidegger View Post
    looks awesome! I may steal your idea body wise, as I have been looking into turning mine into a mad max/apocalyptic thing.
    Steal away! I'm stealing a guy's idea for running an Axial Yeti body soon as well. Right now trying to figure out what springs to run on this thing!
    Slash, Street Rally, 4x4 /Slash, Summit LT, Aton.

  10. #10
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    ohio
    Posts
    3
    If you go weaker will it cause the belly to drag? I know my stock setup is sagging as it is.

  11. #11
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    The ICT!
    Posts
    943
    Quote Originally Posted by dsscheidegger View Post
    If you go weaker will it cause the belly to drag? I know my stock setup is sagging as it is.
    Leverage man. Once the long arms from the stock setup are swapped out for Slayer arms (about half the length) you loose all the leverage on the springs.

    I can already tell the stock springs will make it ride like a dump truck.
    Slash, Street Rally, 4x4 /Slash, Summit LT, Aton.

  12. #12
    RC Qualifier WonderMelon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Myerstown, Pennsylvania
    Posts
    957
    Quote Originally Posted by elDax View Post
    Leverage man. Once the long arms from the stock setup are swapped out for Slayer arms (about half the length) you loose all the leverage on the springs.

    I can already tell the stock springs will make it ride like a dump truck.
    Yeah I'm trying to figure out if there's any other springs for my bigbore shocks. I was looking if the proline springs could fit...

  13. #13
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    The ICT!
    Posts
    943
    Quote Originally Posted by WonderMelon View Post
    Yeah I'm trying to figure out if there's any other springs for my bigbore shocks. I was looking if the proline springs could fit...
    Well, I just ordered some Traxxas 5437 (3.2), Traxxas 5440 (4.1), Traxxas 5439 (3.8) springs. I'm not 100% sure those are exactly what I want, but I have to start somewhere. Those were an educated guess on what I might need since the stock ones are like 5.4s. We shall see, I thought about throwing my Pro-lines in there, and I still might. If I do that I'll put the GTRs on my street Sl4sh. Win win.

    Also ordered up the Pro-Line Interco Super Swamper G8 XLs. I was on the fence between them and the original ones (5.8 inch vs. 5.4 inch), but after measuring the stock tires 7+ inches I decided to go with the larger ones. Hopefully that will work out.
    Slash, Street Rally, 4x4 /Slash, Summit LT, Aton.

  14. #14
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    85
    Lookin good elDax. I'm sure you saw my 2.2 summit(the one with the Yeti cage). Let me know if you want to check which springs I'm currently running....I've experimented with tons of different ones. I'm just not sure what's on my truck right now, but I'm really happy with my setup right now.(I will check which springs I'm using, just let me know) Are you running slayer arms or slayer pro arms? I'm using the Pro arms because they give a bit more width. I think you made the right choice with the XL swampers, I bet you would have been wanting a bit more ground clearance with the smaller ones. Also I used 17mm short course wheels with my 2.2 crawler tires....you'll be much less likely to strip wheel hexes that way.

  15. #15
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    The ICT!
    Posts
    943
    Yea man, your "Yummit" was the final bit of inspiration for me to jump on this project. Thankyou!

    I would love to know what shocks/springs you ended up running. As stated, I have some softer Revo springs on the way if I decide to use the stock shocks. I was also looking at the idea of using Slash or Proline fronts all the way around for more articulation. I did read how some people ran into driveshaft binding by setting up too much flex. I'll cross that bridge when I get there I suppose.

    I am using Slayer Pro arms. I couldn't imagine using shorter ones, lol. When I ordered the parts I didn't know they made a 17mm short course wheel, but I knew 12mm hubs wouldn't cut it so I got Slayer wheels and Slayer 14mm hub hexes.

    I picked up the XL Swampers for ground clearance, like you said. I want to set mine up really soft, with a preference on crawling ability. With that in mind, I knew my arms would probably end up level or just below level...thus the extra .4 inches the XLs provide will be much needed.

    I really appreciate all your help, feel free to check in on me from time to time, lol. I'm sure I'll get it sorted out, but it might save me some frustration and money trying things that you already know won't work.

    PS: Have you ever sized up your Wraith cage on the 2.2 Summit? Also...probably stealing your Yeti cage idea, lol.
    Slash, Street Rally, 4x4 /Slash, Summit LT, Aton.

  16. #16
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    85
    I have a Wraith. I've never taken the cage off of it and tried to fit it, but by eyeballing it I don't think it would really work.
    I don't have part numbers for the springs, but here's what I have. In the front I'm using long travel rockers with double white springs. In the rear I have P2 rockers and double orange springs.
    I tried many softer springs, but these rocker arm suspension trucks really require quite stiff springs. Softer springs like the proline ones I tried just made the suspension way too floppy for my liking.

    Fronts


    Rear


    I also see your mentioned mip driveshafts. All mip makes is slayer (not pro) shafts. They are too short. I made my own by combining slayer mip shaft parts with wraith mip driveshaft parts to come up with the proper length. But it is really not necessary....and was not cheap. Chopped up stock shafts work fine.

  17. #17
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    The ICT!
    Posts
    943
    Quote Originally Posted by NewUsername View Post
    I have a Wraith. I've never taken the cage off of it and tried to fit it, but by eyeballing it I don't think it would really work.
    I don't have part numbers for the springs, but here's what I have. In the front I'm using long travel rockers with double white springs. In the rear I have P2 rockers and double orange springs.
    I tried many softer springs, but these rocker arm suspension trucks really require quite stiff springs. Softer springs like the proline ones I tried just made the suspension way too floppy for my liking.
    I sort of figured the Pro Line springs wouldn't fit the bill after I pulled out the stock ones. Man those factory Summit springs are stout, I could probably use them under my 1:1 VW GTI, lol.

    Glad you brought up the rockers, as that whole situation was confusing me a bit. I decided to see what I could do with the long travels all around, but quickly came to the same conclusion. You can use them in front, but you have to use the progressives in the back for clearance reasons. I am glad to hear that you are still running the long travel ones up front, as that was going to be my next question.

    Quote Originally Posted by NewUsername View Post
    I also see your mentioned mip driveshafts. All mip makes is slayer (not pro) shafts. They are too short. I made my own by combining slayer mip shaft parts with wraith mip driveshaft parts to come up with the proper length. But it is really not necessary....and was not cheap. Chopped up stock shafts work fine.
    Another thing I was initially confused about, but kind of figured out last night. You hear so much talk about how the Summit is just a Revo, or a narrow Slayer...well, not exactly. Those differentials, with the bulge on one side, make sizing up drive shafts quite a chore. I'm going to hack up the stockers and make them work for now, though the scale side of my brain wants to get something a bit smaller in diameter in there.


    Thanks again for all of your help. I'm waiting on some toe links, P2 rockers, pillow ball dust boots, springs, tires, and wheels at this point. I think tonight I will change the fluid in the stock shocks, drop it down to 30wt, and then maybe start tinkering on this...

    (hint, not the green one).
    Slash, Street Rally, 4x4 /Slash, Summit LT, Aton.

  18. #18
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    The ICT!
    Posts
    943
    Suspension update. New progressive rockers came in, they are commonly called P2s for what it's worth. They are required for clearance on the rear end with the Slayer's shorter arms. I'm keeping the stock Summit long travel rockers up front, commonly called LTs. These pictures are admittedly boring, but full suspension travel is a must for a crawler build, and there is only one way to test it.

    Front end: Long travel rockers, full compression.




    Front end: Long travel rockers, driver's side extension. This is a neat picture. At first I though about going with longer shocks to get more suspension flex, but the Traxxas engineers know what they are doing (go figure). The design of the rocker and push rod suspension allows for great range in articulation, without a really long shock. Fascinating how it works (yea, I'm a geek).




    Front end: Long travel rockers, full "droop". While you cannot tell from this picture, or the previous, the suspension binds up before the shocks bottom or top out. Point being, the shocks are not the limiting factor of suspension travel, unlike on a Slash, for instance.




    Rear end: Progressive "2" rockers, full compression. Here, as compared to the picture above you can see the difference between the LT (stock) Summit rockers (bigger), and the P2 (stock Revo I think) rockers. Again, the change was made because the push rod interfered with the Slayer arms. While we are here, it's important to understand the difference. The LT rockers allow more suspension articulation, but at a linear rate. The progressive rockers, as the name suggests, have a progressive rate (spring stiffness increase...geometry and stuff) as they compress...but without as much total travel. LT rockers are best left to the Summit and crawling types, while the progressives are best left to Revo and the jumping types.




    Rear end: Progressive "2" rockers, driver's side extension.




    Rear end: Progressive "2" rockers, full "droop". I lose a few mm of travel on the suspension with this setup, but it must happen to clear the Slayer arms. As a side note, with the progressive rockers I doubt the normal "Summit sag" will be as prevalent.




    This is just a closeup of the push rod through the Slayer arms using the P2 (shorter) rockers. With the long travel (LT) rocker the push rod would bang into the edge of the arm where it starts to bend towards the hub assembly. Sorry for the lengthy explanations, just trying to show people why you must get the parts you must get to complete this mod. I have to see things to get "it".




    Here is the end result. You are looking at the Summit from the back. As you can see (hopefully) the front has a little more travel than the rear. This is due to all the things discussed above. Not ideal, but longer travel in the front is never a bad thing in a crawler.







    On a completely unrelated note, I swapped out whatever came in the shocks (looked about 50wt) for 30wt...much friendlier setup for a crawler. While doing this I noticed how awesome these shocks are. I'm not sure if these are GTRs or what they are, but these are the best Traxxas shocks I have ever touched. I have half a mind to buy a set of these for my Slash 4x4 Speed run car. They are not to long, quality built, and BEEFY!
    Slash, Street Rally, 4x4 /Slash, Summit LT, Aton.

  19. #19
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    140
    Awesome build man, love the Apocalypse body. Patiently waiting to see more.

  20. #20
    RC Qualifier WonderMelon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Myerstown, Pennsylvania
    Posts
    957
    Quote Originally Posted by elDax View Post
    Suspension update. New progressive rockers came in, they are commonly called P2s for what it's worth. They are required for clearance on the rear end with the Slayer's shorter arms. I'm keeping the stock Summit long travel rockers up front, commonly called LTs. These pictures are admittedly boring, but full suspension travel is a must for a crawler build, and there is only one way to test it.

    Front end: Long travel rockers, full compression.




    Front end: Long travel rockers, driver's side extension. This is a neat picture. At first I though about going with longer shocks to get more suspension flex, but the Traxxas engineers know what they are doing (go figure). The design of the rocker and push rod suspension allows for great range in articulation, without a really long shock. Fascinating how it works (yea, I'm a geek).




    Front end: Long travel rockers, full "droop". While you cannot tell from this picture, or the previous, the suspension binds up before the shocks bottom or top out. Point being, the shocks are not the limiting factor of suspension travel, unlike on a Slash, for instance.




    Rear end: Progressive "2" rockers, full compression. Here, as compared to the picture above you can see the difference between the LT (stock) Summit rockers (bigger), and the P2 (stock Revo I think) rockers. Again, the change was made because the push rod interfered with the Slayer arms. While we are here, it's important to understand the difference. The LT rockers allow more suspension articulation, but at a linear rate. The progressive rockers, as the name suggests, have a progressive rate (spring stiffness increase...geometry and stuff) as they compress...but without as much total travel. LT rockers are best left to the Summit and crawling types, while the progressives are best left to Revo and the jumping types.




    Rear end: Progressive "2" rockers, driver's side extension.




    Rear end: Progressive "2" rockers, full "droop". I lose a few mm of travel on the suspension with this setup, but it must happen to clear the Slayer arms. As a side note, with the progressive rockers I doubt the normal "Summit sag" will be as prevalent.




    This is just a closeup of the push rod through the Slayer arms using the P2 (shorter) rockers. With the long travel (LT) rocker the push rod would bang into the edge of the arm where it starts to bend towards the hub assembly. Sorry for the lengthy explanations, just trying to show people why you must get the parts you must get to complete this mod. I have to see things to get "it".




    Here is the end result. You are looking at the Summit from the back. As you can see (hopefully) the front has a little more travel than the rear. This is due to all the things discussed above. Not ideal, but longer travel in the front is never a bad thing in a crawler.







    On a completely unrelated note, I swapped out whatever came in the shocks (looked about 50wt) for 30wt...much friendlier setup for a crawler. While doing this I noticed how awesome these shocks are. I'm not sure if these are GTRs or what they are, but these are the best Traxxas shocks I have ever touched. I have half a mind to buy a set of these for my Slash 4x4 Speed run car. They are not to long, quality built, and BEEFY!
    Yeah, I loved my Revo's shocks too! I got my three nitro cars for free... I honestly wish I didn't sell them.... Lol I got a Revo 3.3 for free, a Jato 3.3 for free and a T-maxx 2.2 for free. They were amazing but a pain because I didn't know much about them lol.

  21. #21
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Parker, CO
    Posts
    1,390
    nice work. I have a summit that a bought a few years ago and haven't really gotten into it. I broke the rear diff and rather than fix it I just converted it over to regular old revo diffs and removed all the diff lock stuff. I just finished going through it and replacing worn out parts/bearings and installed a new rear locking diff and restored all the diff lock functionality.

    This looks like a cool project and i am taking notes. I always thought the summit was too big in stock form and fragile with the monster tires but in going to 2.2 tires i bet the diffs will last much longer. plus is looks a lot better too

    cool stuff!!
    I have an RC problem...

  22. #22
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    The ICT!
    Posts
    943
    Quote Originally Posted by WonderMelon View Post
    Yeah, I loved my Revo's shocks too! I got my three nitro cars for free... I honestly wish I didn't sell them.... Lol I got a Revo 3.3 for free, a Jato 3.3 for free and a T-maxx 2.2 for free. They were amazing but a pain because I didn't know much about them lol.
    Yea, I used to run nitro, sometimes I miss it. But the noise, the mess, and the constant tuning really got old.

    Quote Originally Posted by rock-rod View Post
    nice work. I have a summit that a bought a few years ago and haven't really gotten into it. I broke the rear diff and rather than fix it I just converted it over to regular old revo diffs and removed all the diff lock stuff. I just finished going through it and replacing worn out parts/bearings and installed a new rear locking diff and restored all the diff lock functionality.

    This looks like a cool project and i am taking notes. I always thought the summit was too big in stock form and fragile with the monster tires but in going to 2.2 tires i bet the diffs will last much longer. plus is looks a lot better too

    cool stuff!!
    Thanks bud! I have never really been a monster truck guy, but the Summit was just too cool of a truck to pass on.

    There are crawler guys that spend hundreds upon hundreds of dollars just to hack in 2 speed transmissions and dig systems. The Summit has it all, basically, just have to lose the clown shoes, lol. Only thing I don't like about this build is hacking up $70 worth of tires.
    Slash, Street Rally, 4x4 /Slash, Summit LT, Aton.

  23. #23
    RC Qualifier WonderMelon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Myerstown, Pennsylvania
    Posts
    957
    Quote Originally Posted by elDax View Post
    Yea, I used to run nitro, sometimes I miss it. But the noise, the mess, and the constant tuning really got old.



    Thanks bud! I have never really been a monster truck guy, but the Summit was just too cool of a truck to pass on.

    There are crawler guys that spend hundreds upon hundreds of dollars just to hack in 2 speed transmissions and dig systems. The Summit has it all, basically, just have to lose the clown shoes, lol. Only thing I don't like about this build is hacking up $70 worth of tires.
    $70 isn't bad... I have about $120 in tires already in my Rustler. Only had it since Christmas too! I put tons of money in mine in a short amount of time and it's still mainly stock...

  24. #24
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Parker, CO
    Posts
    1,390
    do you have to go with slayer wheels or would something from axial work?
    I have an RC problem...

  25. #25
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    85
    I used 17mm hub DE Racing short course wheels for my 2.2 Summit. Here's a pic with 2.2 RC4wd Mud Basher tires. I also have XL Swampers and HB Rovers mounted on 17mm DE wheels


  26. #26
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    The ICT!
    Posts
    943
    Quote Originally Posted by WonderMelon View Post
    $70 isn't bad... I have about $120 in tires already in my Rustler. Only had it since Christmas too! I put tons of money in mine in a short amount of time and it's still mainly stock...
    Yea, but my $70 is for one set, lol.


    Quote Originally Posted by rock-rod View Post
    do you have to go with slayer wheels or would something from axial work?
    It's complicated.

    Nothing in the Axial 2.2 wheel selection will fit, the Summit's hubs are too big. Period. Full stop.

    There is one (and only one that I know of) 2.2 wheel made that will technically fit, it's the RPM Revolver "wide". http://www.amazon.com/RPM-Revolver-W...ct_top?ie=UTF8 The problem with it is two fold. One, it's a wide offset wheel and looks a little goofy because most of the hub will be outside the wheel.

    That, and the entire point of this conversion is to narrow up the Summit. No sense in going the other direction. Two, it's a 12mm hub. 12mm hubs don't always do that great on 4s, high torque crawlers. If you don't kill the hub, you are going to kill the wheel. Hear me now, believe me later.

    So, basically what we are left with is short course wheels. Normal 2.2/3.0s, same thing as a Slash, or Slayer...etc. Standard Slash wheels will work, but as I discussed earlier, they run a 12mm hub. This leaves you with two options. Slayer wheels that use a 14mm hub, which is the route I went. Or, find some short course wheels that accept 17mm hubs like Newusername did...

    Quote Originally Posted by NewUsername View Post
    I used 17mm hub DE Racing short course wheels for my 2.2 Summit. Here's a pic with 2.2 RC4wd Mud Basher tires. I also have XL Swampers and HB Rovers mounted on 17mm DE wheels
    Mad props to him, that is a good find.

    Had I know about the wheels he found, I would have used them, as the Summit already comes with 17mm hubs. Sadly, I didn't and I had already ordered the 14mm hubs and Slayer wheels. If I ever need new wheels, I will go the other route. 17mm is better than 14mm everyday and twice on Sunday.
    Last edited by elDax; 04-07-2016 at 02:42 PM.
    Slash, Street Rally, 4x4 /Slash, Summit LT, Aton.

  27. #27
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Parker, CO
    Posts
    1,390
    that's good to know about the wheels. it sounds either way - the tires need to be cut to fit.
    I have an RC problem...

  28. #28
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    The ICT!
    Posts
    943
    Quote Originally Posted by rock-rod View Post
    that's good to know about the wheels. it sounds either way - the tires need to be cut to fit.
    I'm afraid so...trust me, if I could find another way. I certainly would. There is no part of me looking forward to slicing up a brand new set of Interco Super Swampers. That said, many have done it and been fine. You have to keep in mind, we aren't building E-Revo's or high speed Slashes. 2.2 crawler tires are meant to fold, sag, flatten out, lose shape...etc, they probably wont be put in many situations where extreme centrifugal force is trying to tear them away from the wheel.
    Slash, Street Rally, 4x4 /Slash, Summit LT, Aton.

  29. #29
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    The ICT!
    Posts
    943
    Small update.

    Got my drive shafts hacked up. I had every intention of taking measurements of how much I took off, but after test fitting, cutting, test fitting, cutting, and test fitting again I didn't. What I can tell you is I took about an 1-1/2 inch off both male and female. Of course, two of the four shafts are shorter so they fit the lumpy differentials. See the different stock sizes below.




    And I got wheels, lol.
    Slash, Street Rally, 4x4 /Slash, Summit LT, Aton.

  30. #30
    RC Racer Sneetches's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    151
    Honestly I was a bit worried about cutting my spare Trepadors at first but once it was done, I realized it was really a piece of cake. As long as you take your time and have something like Lexan scissors, they'll come out fine. Looking forward to the finished product here.

  31. #31
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    The ICT!
    Posts
    943
    Quote Originally Posted by Sneetches View Post
    Honestly I was a bit worried about cutting my spare Trepadors at first but once it was done, I realized it was really a piece of cake. As long as you take your time and have something like Lexan scissors, they'll come out fine. Looking forward to the finished product here.

    Thanks man, I'm super nervous. I was thinking about fashioning up some sort of jig with a diameter equal to in inset diameter of the 3.0 side of the wheel...but I'm probably over complicating things. From all that I have read, especially with these tires, it is supposed to be pretty apparent what needs cut out.

    Springs and toe links are due to arrive today!
    Slash, Street Rally, 4x4 /Slash, Summit LT, Aton.

  32. #32
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    85
    Don't make the cut equal to the diameter of the 3.0 side. Make it smaller so it fits snug. It's better to cut too little off first because you can always trim more. Get one tire done slowly and carefully first, then you can copy the remaining 3.
    ..... Just remember it's better for the tire to be a bit too tight on the rim.

    And yes Sneetches is right. Lexan body scissors make cutting really easy.
    Last edited by NewUsername; 04-08-2016 at 03:20 PM.

  33. #33
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    The ICT!
    Posts
    943
    Makes sense! It's been a while since I had a pair of 2.2s around the house, they are quite stretchy, lol. Ordered up some scissors as well.
    Slash, Street Rally, 4x4 /Slash, Summit LT, Aton.

  34. #34
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    62
    Man this is looking good man. Thanks for all the detailed write up and photos


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  35. #35
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    The ICT!
    Posts
    943
    Quote Originally Posted by JonnyU View Post
    Man this is looking good man. Thanks for all the detailed write up and photos


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Thanks bud!

    My tires came in yesterday! Here's the update...


    Got my foams all cut out, going to use a modified star pattern for extra grip. Used to do this on my Axials...results in a tire with more grab, at the expense of holding it's shape at high speed. As I want this to be a crawler first, go fast truck second I went this route. If you plan to bash more than crawl, I'd let the foams be. Although you DO have to trim the inside to allow fitment of the 2.2/3.0 rim, as the foams comes set up for normal 2.2 rims.




    Here is the 3.0 size that had to be cut....Props to the previous posters who gave me some advice. Smaller is better, take your time.





    Here is the cutout to fir the 2.2 side.





    Side by side....





    All mounted up! Honestly, gluing them was the toughest part. 2.2s are naturally more stretchy than the tires and wheels you are probably used to. Pull on one side too hard and you will distort the shape. It's kind of a bear.



    I took her out for a run around the yard after this picture was taken and I kicked out a driveshaft. I had cut it too short. Remember, when you are cutting the driveshafts to measure the shortest distance, and the longest distance, at full flex, with the wheels turned. I should have taken more measurements. Oh, well, off to the store to pick up a new driveshaft or two.

    If you're gonna be dumb you gotta be tough, lol.
    Last edited by elDax; 04-10-2016 at 12:21 PM.
    Slash, Street Rally, 4x4 /Slash, Summit LT, Aton.

  36. #36
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    The ICT!
    Posts
    943
    Maiden voyage!











    Slash, Street Rally, 4x4 /Slash, Summit LT, Aton.

  37. #37
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    62
    Nice.. So you just glued them in ? How did they hold up. The 3.0 side would seems to come apart easily


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  38. #38
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    The ICT!
    Posts
    943
    Quote Originally Posted by JonnyU View Post
    Nice.. So you just glued them in ? How did they hold up. The 3.0 side would seems to come apart easily


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Gluing was the worst part if I'm honest. The 3.0 side wasn't actually that bad. The cut part hopped right in the wheel's groove pretty well. I had one come loose a bit, but I also had a bit of tire on the 2.2 side come loose as well. So, I'm going to chalk it up to my poor gluing skills and not the tires, rims, or cutting.

    Neither was catastrophic, I just glued the blow outs back up, and they have been fine since.
    Slash, Street Rally, 4x4 /Slash, Summit LT, Aton.

  39. #39
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    The ICT!
    Posts
    943
    Been toying with springs still. I've tried the softest available for the Revo, but they are still too hard for me. Here I was almost set up with some Pro-Line 'Strokes for Slash 4x4 Rears in Yellow. They are just a little tiny bit too soft, but the length is longer, which I really liked.

    That's the problem with Revo springs, they are short and stubby. I need a spring soft enough to completely collapse under weight, yet long enough to extend the suspension to it's full throw when I have a wheel lifted. My next setup will be with some Slayer double stripes (longer) at 1.6 and 1.8. Will update things when they arrive.


    So close with Pro-Line yellows....



    Also, Yeti mod cometh (hat tip to member "NewUserName")....
    Slash, Street Rally, 4x4 /Slash, Summit LT, Aton.

  40. #40
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    The ICT!
    Posts
    943
    Well, the Apocalypse body didn't last long. It just wasn't as scale as I wanted. After doing so much work to narrow up the Summit, it felt a shame to leave a stock"ish" body on there. The other problem was tire clearance. In order to turn, and fully flex out with 2.2s I had to ride the body way too high up for my liking. It still looked monster trucky. So, stealing yet again from NewUserName, the TrAxial Yummit 2 has been born.




    Mounting wasn't too bad. I didn't want to permanently alter too many things, so I've implemented I couple of questionable mods. We shall see how they pan out. Maybe they become permanent, maybe they don't.

    First up is the rear mount. Axial has a pretty nifty system with the cage etal being hinged to flip back for battery and motor access. Unfortunately, I couldn't find a way to use that system on the Summit Chassis. I liked the idea though. So what I have done is grind some grooves into the stock Summit body post mount that accept the shape of the Yeti cage. I made it a seat. Then I put some extra long screws through the cage that ultimately rest against the front body post mount when the cage is closed for stability(second pic). For a hinge? Well, nothing beats zip ties at this stage of the game. They are cheap, tough, and make a pretty decent hinge.





    The front was tougher. This picture was taken during my "crafting phase", but what you are looking at is the front stock Summit body post mount. I've hacked off the ends, and I've hacked off the addition support bars (there are normally three). This was done so that the cage sat dawn further on the chassis. After that I flattened out the top with a Dremel. Next, I took a Pro-Line screw type body post and flattened out one side of it so that it fit snugly against the body post mount. I super glued the snot out of it, then put a couple screws though it into the body post mount.


    I got a little sloppy with the Dremel and chewed up my aluminum a bit making clearance for the cage, but I'm okay with that. I want to get some body damage on this thing. Anyways, this is the end result. The Pro-Line screw cap mount pokes up through the hood and that's how I secure the front.



    Open!



    Closed!



    I may have gotten a little crazy with the stickers, lol...but after a while you just have too many and have to use them somewhere, lol. The nice thing is this is aluminum. I can peal them off, paint it, redo it, dent it...whatever, it will survive.





    I'm still on the fence about adding some netting (window screen) to the open areas of the cage. Mainly just to shadow some of the internals. I'm not really one for putting action figures into my RCs and all that.

    Anywho, happy Wednesday.
    Slash, Street Rally, 4x4 /Slash, Summit LT, Aton.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •