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  1. #1
    RC Racer
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    First run on 3s Broken crap

    Unreal. You'd think the hobby would have got a little better by now.
    What's the strongest camber link I can get for this thing?

    I see these, but what balls do I need for them?




  2. #2
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    Those look like rustler xl5 replacement parts. If so, no balls. Shoulder screws.

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  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Looks like you just got a bad part there. Those 4mm turnbuckles are generally stronger, flex less and provide adjustability that those fixed links don't.
    Submarine Qualified, Chief Inducted, Navy Retired

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier StampedeSwag13's Avatar
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    All parts will break, just get over it. 3s is where things will break. Thankfully you did not break something huge tho.
    and RC pilots say RC cars can't fly!

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier WonderMelon's Avatar
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    Lol calm down mate! Don't downgrade if something breaks!

  6. #6
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    I could care less about adjustment. I don't race. I need something durable. I upgraded from stock, thinking it was going to be stronger. I don't even bash that hard.

    I've seen dudes with what I thought was aluminum versions of those RPM ones. Or was I seeing things?

    Is a Rustler XL5 the same chassis?

    Do the RPM's come with shoulder screws I wonder?

  7. #7
    RC Qualifier FROSTYEYE's Avatar
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    First run on 3s Broken crap

    I broke a ton of the traxxas 4 mm turnbuckles, I switched to Lunsford and haven't had a problem yet.


    http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/me...de=TRUC-TRRVXL
    Last edited by FROSTYEYE; 05-16-2016 at 07:44 PM.
    If it cant be broke, I'll break it.

  8. #8
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    Traxxas 3642 Attachment Screws https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006MZRUK..._bNMoxbGT0W51C
    Comes in a 6 pack, without washers...
    You're gonna need 8 and washers.
    If you're screwing into metal you're gonna want loctite too.

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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by FROSTYEYE View Post
    I broke a ton of the traxxas 4 mm turnbuckles, I switched to Lunsford and haven't had a problem yet.


    http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/me...de=TRUC-TRRVXL
    Cool, traxxas should just make the stock ones out of frign twigs.

  10. #10
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    So anybody using the RPM links? The Lunsford ones are probably the best but $40

  11. #11
    RC Qualifier WonderMelon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by knucklebrain View Post
    So anybody using the RPM links? The Lunsford ones are probably the best but $40
    I'd not suggest the plastic ones mate, use metal and plastic. I never had problems

  12. #12
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    Wondering if I should just use the stock ones. They appear to be steel, not aluminum.

  13. #13
    RC Qualifier FROSTYEYE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by knucklebrain View Post
    Cool, traxxas should just make the stock ones out of frign twigs.
    Hahahaha, the traxxas ones are fine, I bought the Lunsfords because I drive fast and wreckless. Try hitting a curb at 30 or 40 mph with a real car, you'd be lucky to get away with only breaking a tie Rod.
    If it cant be broke, I'll break it.

  14. #14
    RC Qualifier Zamboniman808's Avatar
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    You can also go the route of just using 8-32 stainless threaded rod stock. You just have to cut it to size. $5 for a meter of it and you will have links for years. It's what we did for the wide mod on my son's p2de and it works great.

  15. #15
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    @ OP..Why complain..you monster truck people need to realize how much rolling mass that is protruding from the truck..your gonna break stuff..whats the first thing that break off of an airplane..same deal..

    Try going all billet suspension..and/or a closed course, without as many objects to hit..

    When the wheels are tucked in closer to the vehicle mass/body..then things are protected more, and stronger, because everything is shorter..don't blame the manufacturer for building a budget friendly vehicle..otherwise the vehicle would cost double+..

    SM-N910C Gold Note 4 (MM 6.0.1)
    Last edited by NWKENT; 05-18-2016 at 02:50 PM.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zamboniman808 View Post
    You can also go the route of just using 8-32 stainless threaded rod stock. You just have to cut it to size. $5 for a meter of it and you will have links for years. It's what we did for the wide mod on my son's p2de and it works great.
    Will the standard Traxxas ball ends fit?

  17. #17
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    When I got my Rustler I felt a bot disappointed because after the first 15 minutes of running it I broke 3 parts and it was down until I could get them replaced. Then I started reading a lot of RC forums and realized that out of the box MOST RC cars are built just like that....the come with parts that will break easily, especially when running 3S and above. Since my upgrades to certain aluminum and RPM parts I have not had that problem for months.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Randycandy View Post
    When I got my Rustler I felt a bot disappointed because after the first 15 minutes of running it I broke 3 parts and it was down until I could get them replaced. Then I started reading a lot of RC forums and realized that out of the box MOST RC cars are built just like that....the come with parts that will break easily, especially when running 3S and above. Since my upgrades to certain aluminum and RPM parts I have not had that problem for months.
    Exactly..

    SM-N910C Gold Note 4 (MM 6.0.1)

  19. #19
    RC Qualifier Zamboniman808's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by knucklebrain View Post
    Will the standard Traxxas ball ends fit?
    Yes, the long ones. Those are the ones that come on the vxl links.

  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Dadx2mj's Avatar
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    RPM links rarely if ever break. They almost always end up bent and deformed from all the flexing they do though.

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    BlindMan Racing
    Rusty - MERV - Pede 4x4-Alias
    SPC Lipo Power

  21. #21
    RC Racer A1ArmedToaster's Avatar
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    I've been using the RPM links for a few years and they hold up well
    Rustler VXL/ Merv (sold)/ Q32/ Ambush/ Kraton

  22. #22
    RC Qualifier timmey77's Avatar
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    I'm not sure If I saw this correctly but to me it looks like youre using the blue aluminium turnbuckles? If you do switch to the steel ones

  23. #23
    RC Qualifier Swampthing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by timmey77 View Post
    I'm not sure If I saw this correctly but to me it looks like youre using the blue aluminium turnbuckles? If you do switch to the steel ones
    I was going to say the same thing. The blue aluminum ones are weak. The stock steel ones from the VXL are much stronger...
    Rustler | MERV | Summit | Slash Ultimate | Slash

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by timmey77 View Post
    I'm not sure If I saw this correctly but to me it looks like youre using the blue aluminium turnbuckles? If you do switch to the steel ones
    Already switched back to stock. The blue aluminum = USELESS

  25. #25
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    This thing just got a good solid beating. Bent my custom 1/8" thick motor guard guard and bend the aluminum STRC motor guard too. Guess I'm gonna have to make the thing out of steel.


  26. #26
    RC Qualifier WonderMelon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by knucklebrain View Post
    This thing just got a good solid beating. Bent my custom 1/8" thick motor guard guard and bend the aluminum STRC motor guard too. Guess I'm gonna have to make the thing out of steel.

    Supports, you need to add supports for them mate

  27. #27
    RC Racer
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    How do I do that?

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by knucklebrain View Post
    This thing just got a good solid beating. Bent my custom 1/8" thick motor guard guard and bend the aluminum STRC motor guard too. Guess I'm gonna have to make the thing out of steel.
    Steel won't bend as easy, but will transfer the hit to the next weakest point. Either learn to land better or get a plastic rear bumper/guard that can absorb that energy.

  29. #29
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    Get a T-bone rear bumper. That will help a ton for the back.
    1 Slash 3 Rustys & visits with my old P4de/SC8

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by FROSTYEYE View Post
    I broke a ton of the traxxas 4 mm turnbuckles, I switched to Lunsford and haven't had a problem yet.


    http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/me...de=TRUC-TRRVXL
    R these better than the Steel cambers or Turnbuckles. Also does Titanium rust?

  31. #31
    RC Qualifier CastleNewbie's Avatar
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    I would invest in some plasti dip and dip your plastic ones I did and I've never needed to ever replace any!! Just my opinion. It gives a lot of flex bu adds some weight.
    Last edited by CastleNewbie; 06-01-2016 at 10:01 AM.

  32. #32
    RC Qualifier WonderMelon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Basicblaq View Post
    R these better than the Steel cambers or Turnbuckles. Also does Titanium rust?
    Titanium does not rust...

  33. #33
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WonderMelon View Post
    Titanium does not rust...
    ...below 1100F.
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

  34. #34
    RC Qualifier WonderMelon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ksb51rl View Post
    ...below 1100F.
    Wait it rusts? Huh LOL sorry I didn't know that.

  35. #35
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
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    At those temps, oxidation of the titanium alloy is the least of your worries.
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

  36. #36
    RC Qualifier FROSTYEYE's Avatar
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    Much better than the steel, not sure about the rust, but all metal will rust I believe


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    If it cant be broke, I'll break it.

  37. #37
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    Man my truck just slid down the street on the roof. I didn't know if it would ever stop. Sick of the street and baseball fields.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by knucklebrain View Post
    Man my truck just slid down the street on the roof. I didn't know if it would ever stop. Sick of the street and baseball fields.
    Mine did cartwheels I didn't know when it was going to stop. Lol

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