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  1. #1
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    Stripped differentials (Ring and Pinion)

    I bought a 1/16 erevo vxl in march 2016 and have enjoyed its brushless power tremendously ever since the afternoon i took it out the first time. i recently went through the stock esc by running it on 3s lipo in 90 degree weather (my fault). After that happened, i swapped to the "big block" and put in a 5700kv Castle creations motor and a mamba max pro esc (no more overheating) i played with it for 2 runs with each run going through a 2s lipo and a 3s lipo. my rear diff is clicking yet again! this makes the 5th time replacing the ring and pinion since I've owned it. I've tried numerous things to prevent it from happening and I'm here to see if any of you all can help a brother out. i have 2 team associated shims on the ring gear front and rear, i have a billet machined aluminum integy bulkhead for the rear and i also have steel driveshafts. ( I'm unsure if driveshafts have an effect on it or not.) is there anything else i can do to prevent going through ring and pinions like butter??

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigBlockMerv View Post
    I bought a 1/16 erevo vxl in march 2016 and have enjoyed its brushless power tremendously ever since the afternoon i took it out the first time. i recently went through the stock esc by running it on 3s lipo in 90 degree weather (my fault). After that happened, i swapped to the "big block" and put in a 5700kv Castle creations motor and a mamba max pro esc (no more overheating) i played with it for 2 runs with each run going through a 2s lipo and a 3s lipo. my rear diff is clicking yet again! this makes the 5th time replacing the ring and pinion since I've owned it. I've tried numerous things to prevent ie t from happening and I'm here to see if any of you all can help a brother out. i have 2 team associated shims on the ring gear front and rear, i have a billet machined aluminum integy bulkhead for the rear and i also have steel driveshafts. ( I'm unsure if driveshafts have an effect on it or not.) is there anything else i can do to prevent going through ring and pinions like butter??
    are you sure that your slipper isn't overtightened? this could put excess strain on the diffs and possibly strip the diffs. You can find out how to access the slipper clutch in the manual (https://traxxas.com/sites/default/fi...-OM-EN-R01.pdf page 23).

    this link should also be useful on how much you should actually adjust it: https://traxxas.com/support/How-Adjust-Slipper-Clutch

    Also, you may want to make sure the shims are on the right side (I've put them on the side where they push away the ring & pinion gears before)

    It could be something else though... Good Luck!
    Last edited by ihs0201; 05-27-2016 at 06:11 PM.

  3. #3
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    I loosened the slipper clutch a hair about 3 weeks ago. Just how much do I need to loosen it? Thanks for the tip!

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigBlockMerv View Post
    I loosened the slipper clutch a hair about 3 weeks ago. Just how much do I need to loosen it? Thanks for the tip!
    What Traxxas recommend is to firstly fully tighten it (until the spring is fully collapsed - do not overtight it though). Then they say you should loosen it (turn it anticlockwise) 1 full turn. Maybe see how your diffs hold up with this set-up. Again, as I said before, I am not sure if the slipper clutch is actually the problem, but there isn't really any harm in trying. Anyway, I'm glad I could be of some help

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by ihs0201 View Post
    What Traxxas recommend is to firstly fully tighten it (until the spring is fully collapsed - do not overtight it though). Then they say you should loosen it (turn it anticlockwise) 1 full turn. Maybe see how your diffs hold up with this set-up. Again, as I said before, I am not sure if the slipper clutch is actually the problem, but there isn't really any harm in trying. Anyway, I'm glad I could be of some help
    Okay, I just loosened the slipper clutch 360 degrees counter clockwise from fully tightened. Hopefully that's all I have to loosen it.

  6. #6
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    I would pick up a castle programmer card, and put in some punch control in the esc, (I have mine set to 30%) so the diffs don't see the 100% torque on take off. It lessens the blow to the drivetrain. I have a 4600kv in my merv, and have blown 1 diff in it, however that diff was shimmed and lasted me 3 years with stock motor and 1 on the castle.

    Another thing after shimming the diffs, run a pack or 2 thru and recheck them, to make sure they're still how you put them. I also have heard 2 shims may not be enough in the integy bulks, some have claimed more to get a tight fit.

    Then there is always throttle control with the trigger. It's more the instant jolt from the motor that kills parts.

    Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
    ERBE, EMBE, big block MERV, Sl4sh

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