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  1. #1
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    Castle 2650kv getting hot! Help!

    I have a problem that I have looked everywhere for an answer and really cant find it. So I have a mm2 with the castle 2650 can. Temps keep reaching anywhere from 165to 175 for motor to 155 for esc within 15min. The first things I've already diagnosed to make sure what isnt the problem is making sure that there is no binding between pinion and spur and making sure there's no binding between the drivetrain which there isn't. Now I was running an 18t pinion and 54t spur which was stock and had these issues. So last night I switched to a 17t pinion 56t spur and withing 5 minutes I couldnt touch my motor. What is going on? I spent the money on this motor so I didn't have to constantly have to watch temps like I did with my velineon. By the way I'm running 5000 milliamp 3s 30 C. Any help would be greatly appreciated. This site and its members is the reason I chose the build I currently have. Thanks!

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
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    Welcome to the forum and the addiction! You are among a group of people who share the love of the Traxxas Slash 4x4! If you have any questions please feel free to ask. Remember we are here to help!

    I have never used a 2650 motor but I will give you a couple of ideas for what your problem could be. For one, I would never run a lipo with only 30c. That has never been enough for me. I only run lipos that are 50c and above. I want to make sure the truck is getting the power it needs. If the system is starving for power it will get hot. Another idea is you may want to gear it up. If a 17 gets hotter than an 18. Try a 19 and see if that makes a difference. I just installed the El Sob special ( ET-3s 2400 ) in my new Ultimate Edition yesterday. The weather was about 95 in Cordelia, California today. I was running my truck hard in grass and dirt and it never got above 140 with no fans on the motor. I have it geared 19/54.
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  3. #3
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    My motor got hot as well, 165+. Running a venom 5400, 3s, 20c, 2.8 proline trenchers in the sand. I was full speed here and there with some rest stops. Sidewinder 8 with 2650 geared at 20/50. Waiting on a fan I ordered to see if that knocks the temp down. The outside air was 80* or so. The battery got hoy as well. But it was fun!
    Slash 4x4 MMP SCT 3800kv/Sidewinder 8 CC 2650kv

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    Thanks for the reply. I hear too Many people talk about how they gear these up and have no issues. What would be the lowest c rating you would go with then? Besides 50c? Castle states that 30c and above is what the motor and esc like to run. I guess after work I will try a higher c rating and report back.

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    I would check for blown bearings. Then I would check the driveshafts along with the carriers if there are any bindings. Then check the diffs. I run 20/54 on my 2650 with a fan and I run 120 degrees. I don't think batteries would make a difference in heat on a motor. A motor is going to run whatever speed the ESC gives it. Meaning if 20c is not enough juice when you punch it, it should not cause a motor to overheat. It will just run slower. As for gearing, dropping the pinion smaller should also not increase the heat. It will give more torque so less strain on the motor.

  6. #6
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    I tried the fan as well with not much luck. Im running less than 75 percent punch with my motor timing set low and still getting hot. Hate to go spend 70 bucks on a venom for the battery not to be the issue.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blkdrgn808 View Post
    I would check for blown bearings. Then I would check the driveshafts along with the carriers if there are any bindings. Then check the diffs. I run 20/54 on my 2650 with a fan and I run 120 degrees. I don't think batteries would make a difference in heat on a motor. A motor is going to run whatever speed the ESC gives it. Meaning if 20c is not enough juice when you punch it, it should not cause a motor to overheat. It will just run slower. As for gearing, dropping the pinion smaller should also not increase the heat. It will give more torque so less strain on the motor.
    These are all things that I have checked. No binding whatsoever she rolls really smooth. Not to mention 1 week ago I installed my XO-1 diffs. Should I turn my punch and timing up. The battery stays cool the entire time. This is also why I dropped down on my pinion so it would be less stress and it didnt seem to help.

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    I ran the same system with no fan and no near thos etemps, but again here the ambient temps are lower.

    Re-check if the slipper might be a bit loose and the bearing for the centre drive shaft, is it ok, I am also running an HCG with the traxxas HD motor plate which acts as a heat sync and lowers temps as low as by 10 degrees.
    Live life to the fullest

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jezza View Post
    I ran the same system with no fan and no near thos etemps, but again here the ambient temps are lower.

    Re-check if the slipper might be a bit loose and the bearing for the centre drive shaft, is it ok, I am also running an HCG with the traxxas HD motor plate which acts as a heat sync and lowers temps as low as by 10 degrees.
    Yes. I had it apart last night. Brand new ceramic slipper bearing. STRC motor mount. This build with the upgrades is less than a month old. Hey Jezza. Should I be running my slipper kind of tight? I have always went by the grab the back wheels and it should pull off the ground a little when accelerating method.
    Last edited by grimey556; 06-03-2016 at 06:54 AM.

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grimey556 View Post
    Yes. I had it apart last night. Brand new ceramic slipper bearing. STRC motor mount. This build with the upgrades is less than a month old. Hey Jezza. Should I be running my slipper kind of tight? I have always went by the grab the back wheels and it should pull off the ground a little when accelerating method.
    I run mine tigter, so that it grips well on the torque of the 2650, about 1/4 turn out after been tightened., I have never had a plastic spur failure with the hd erevo slipper clutch.
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jezza View Post
    I run mine tigter, so that it grips well on the torque of the 2650, about 1/4 turn out after been tightened., I have never had a plastic spur failure with the hd erevo slipper clutch.
    That's exactly what I run. On your esc programming. Do you run 100% punch with motor timing maxed?

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grimey556 View Post
    That's exactly what I run. On your esc programming. Do you run 100% punch with motor timing maxed?

    I did not change the timing but lowered the punch a long time ago, dont remembre at what excactly to avoid wheelies and also my breaking....do not change any timimg on the motor , I think that may be the cause of your heat issue.

    What tyres are you running by the way?

    This was run on a hot day, of 85F, I did not even check any more the temps as the initial check was below 126F on 4s.
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    Im running 2.2 pro line beadlocks with trenchers. So run my timing at default or max? Also, do you think a HR chassis cover would restrict to much airflow?

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    I'm soaking up the advice/suggestions also "grimey". My bearings and diffs are all new and/or rebuilt. I'm gonna start with changing my gears from 20/50 to maybe 19/54 or so and put on a motor fan.
    Slash 4x4 MMP SCT 3800kv/Sidewinder 8 CC 2650kv

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    Quote Originally Posted by bzissurfing View Post
    I'm soaking up the advice/suggestions also "grimey". My bearings and diffs are all new and/or rebuilt. I'm gonna start with changing my gears from 20/50 to maybe 19/54 or so and put on a motor fan.
    I was just running 17/50, 18/54 now 17/56 with the same results. Gear change doesnt seem to help me at all. Also changed my braking to 75% through esc with 50% on controller so it isnt real high either
    Last edited by grimey556; 06-03-2016 at 07:42 AM.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by bzissurfing View Post
    I'm soaking up the advice/suggestions also "grimey". My bearings and diffs are all new and/or rebuilt. I'm gonna start with changing my gears from 20/50 to maybe 19/54 or so and put on a motor fan.
    Keep me posted. As will I. I want to enjoy this setup. Thats why I bought it! Lol. Not to stand over it with a temp gun.

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grimey556 View Post
    Im running 2.2 pro line beadlocks with trenchers. So run my timing at default or max? Also, do you think a HR chassis cover would restrict to much airflow?
    The Dust covers etc, have known to cause more heat than when it is not covered, maybe that is the root
    Live life to the fullest

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jezza View Post
    The Dust covers etc, have known to cause more heat than when it is not covered, maybe that is the root
    I will remove that tonight and also reprogram the motor timing on the ESC and let you guys know what the results are. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    I don't think batteries would make a difference in heat on a motor. A motor is going to run whatever speed the ESC gives it. Meaning if 20c is not enough juice when you punch it, it should not cause a motor to overheat
    Incorrect an under powered system will overheat in a hurry.
    If your lipo and motor/esc are getting hot and everything else has been checked,YES a battery that cant deliver enough juice to the setup will get things hot including the battery.
    IMO a better battery and or a cap pack will help a lot.
    My motor and esc's dropped 15 after adding a capacitor cap pack and my lipos being 50c never got hot but even they ran cooler after words, why, its called a ripple effect.
    When you pull hard on that battery asking it for more or all it can give it will create voltage spikes (ripples) that will make the system hot.
    In short an under powered 1/8 setup, meaning a bad or to low c rated lipo (amp availability) will most definitely cause your setup to get hotter quicker.
    If you dont want to buy another lipo since 30c (except for traxxas 25c) is very low (150amps) for an 1/8 scale setup that can ask for 90to even 100% of that under a hard pull causing a lot of ripple and ripple = heat at the very least buy or make yourself a cap pack.
    Use 4 or 5 low esr 220uf 50 volt capacitors running parallel and hook them up as close to the esc on the battery side as you can.
    This will smooth out the ripple and help your system run cooler.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    IMO I wouldn't run anything under a 50c execpt the traxxas 25c which is a great lipo with that setup.
    Take a look at spc or smc and get at least a 50c rated 5200mah lipo.
    As long as your motor bearings are good and nothing is binding you should be fine.
    I run my MT 2650 MM2 geared 18/54 and 20/50 and use fans for nothing, well maybe the MM2 since its built in and run a consistent 140 on the motor unless its like 90 outside then I might hit 150.
    Last edited by billy-bones; 06-03-2016 at 08:54 AM.
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by billy-bones View Post
    Incorrect an under powered system will overheat in a hurry.
    If your lipo and motor/esc are getting hot and everything else has been checked,YES a battery that cant deliver enough juice to the setup will get things hot including the battery.
    IMO a better battery and or a cap pack will help a lot.
    My motor and esc's dropped 15 after adding a capacitor cap pack and my lipos being 50c never got hot but even they ran cooler after words, why, its called a ripple effect.
    When you pull hard on that battery asking it for more or all it can give it will create voltage spikes (ripples) that will make the system hot.
    In short an under powered 1/8 setup, meaning a bad or to low c rated lipo (amp availability) will most definitely cause your setup to get hotter quicker.
    If you dont want to buy another lipo since 30c (except for traxxas 25c) is very low (150amps) for an 1/8 scale setup that can ask for 90to even 100% of that under a hard pull causing a lot of ripple and ripple = heat at the very least buy or make yourself a cap pack.
    Use 4 or 5 low esr 220uf 50 volt capacitors running parallel and hook them up as close to the esc on the battery side as you can.
    This will smooth out the ripple and help your system run cooler.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    IMO I wouldn't run anything under a 50c execpt the traxxas 25c which is a great lipo with that setup.
    Take a look at spc or smc and get at least a 50c rated 5200mah lipo.
    As long as your motor bearings are good and nothing is binding you should be fine.
    I run my MT 2650 MM2 geared 18/54 and 20/50 and use fans for nothing, well maybe the MM2 since its built in and run a consistent 140 on the motor unless its like 90 outside then I might hit 150.
    Billy_bones is dropping some knowledge! Where can I learn more about those "Cap Packs"?
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  21. #21
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    I just ordered a SMC 11.1v, 7200mah, 60c. I'll keep y'all updated. I like my "punch" at 100% and my brake is set at 50%. I have my drag brake set at 0%, I can imagine having the drag on would cause heat also.
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  22. #22
    RC Champion MikeMcE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bzissurfing View Post
    Billy_bones is dropping some knowledge! Where can I learn more about those "Cap Packs"?
    I agree, my largest is only a 40c , my 2650 gets hot no binds, all gears...... 14/ 52 now, 140 after one pack
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  23. #23
    RC Champion MikeMcE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bzissurfing View Post
    I just ordered a SMC 11.1v, 7200mah, 60c. I'll keep y'all updated. I like my "punch" at 100% and my brake is set at 50%. I have my drag brake set at 0%, I can imagine having the drag on would cause heat also.
    Per Castle brakes on a brushless do not increase heat.....

    I thought otherwise, but proved it, by disabling both, no increase or decrease in temp or run time
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  24. #24
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Billy_bones is dropping some knowledge! Where can I learn more about those "Cap Packs"?
    If you want to buy a castle unit it will help but you can make a better one for a fraction of the price.
    http://www.castlecreations.com/produ...-cap-pack.html
    If your more interested in making your own pm me and I'll try to help you out more.
    The most expensive part on my cap pack are the two castle 4mm connectors to solder to the esc wires.

    I agree, my largest is only a 40c , my 2650 gets hot no binds, all gears...... 14/ 52 now, 140 after one pack
    Absolutely nothing wrong with 140 as long a s your lipo isnt getting hot, there is a good chance the motor has reached its peak running temp for the gearing and setup your running as a hole .
    I shoot for 140-150 running temps, I dont buy into the cooler the better, dont get me wrong, cooler is way better then cooking the thing but running your motor to cool all the time isn't necessarily doing any favors either imo.
    I've said this before, I know these are nothing like internal combustion engines but even these little electric motors will contract and expand with the temperature, they run bearings and bushings with very tight tolerances.
    To discover they too have an optimal running temp wouldn't surprise me at all
    I read a article by tekin some time back, I really wish I had saved the quote but the message was to there racers, the running temp they were suggested to shoot for was 160f as this was where there motors performed at there best.
    First of all were not talking about racing so thats not all that relative, the point however is.
    The motors have a temp they perform the best at and its not cold.
    A heat race might last about 8 minutes (been a while so thats just a guess) the motor will be up to its max temp within the first two or three of these minutes.
    The point is geared right and everything working as it should the motor will maintain this temp the rest of the race.
    Theoretically this is true for the basher as well.
    Your motor may have got to 140 in ne pack but might very well stay there for the next three or four packs geared properly with everything else spinning freely.


    Billy_bones is dropping some knowledge!
    Thank you for the complement, it makes me laugh tho.
    I'm more used to hearing your about as smart as a box of rocks.
    Also keep in mind with the exception of knowing an under powered system will most definitely get hot as I've done it and seen it happen many times many of the things I say are just my opinion.
    While I base my opinions on as much fact and experience as possible there still just my opinions.
    A lot of people claim the get more power from a cap pack, I'm happy for them but I haven't gained any power I could notice.
    I can however say for a fact I've seen my esc, motor and lipos all run cooler after installing the cap pack.
    My esc dropped almost 20f and the motor 15f
    Last edited by billy-bones; 06-03-2016 at 01:58 PM.
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  25. #25
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    you need better batteries...... my 1s helicopter wit ha 150 mah battery has a 25c discharge rate

    you are running a high powered system, and it is getting hot, because your batteries can't hack it...

    if you can't afford better batteries, save up..... it's a lot better to wait for a little while, than to constantly destroy sub-par batteries and damage your high dollar electronics.....

  26. #26
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    i have a 2650kv motor with a 150a ESC and i run it all out with 3s 5000mAh 25c traxxas batteries and dont have any heat issues. i had heat issues with the stock vileneon setup which is why i went with a 4068 2650 kv motor. i have it geared 18/54 only because i didnt want it to do wheelies all day long. stays cool with no issues. you might have to call the manufacturer and figure out whats wrong w the setup. i really dont think its your battery and i wouldnt buy more stuff in hopes that will fix it unless you know for sure whats causing the heat issues. i educated myself on how lipos work and what all the rating values mean on this site and it doesnt sound like an underpowered batt will affect your motor's temp.
    http://rogershobbycenter.com/lipoguide/

  27. #27
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by saddlesore View Post
    i have a 2650kv motor with a 150a ESC and i run it all out with 3s 5000mAh 25c traxxas batteries and dont have any heat issues. i had heat issues with the stock vileneon setup which is why i went with a 4068 2650 kv motor. i have it geared 18/54 only because i didnt want it to do wheelies all day long. stays cool with no issues. you might have to call the manufacturer and figure out whats wrong w the setup. i really dont think its your battery and i wouldnt buy more stuff in hopes that will fix it unless you know for sure whats causing the heat issues. i educated myself on how lipos work and what all the rating values mean on this site and it doesnt sound like an underpowered batt will affect your motor's temp.
    http://rogershobbycenter.com/lipoguide/
    A traxxas 25c rated battery is a different story, I believe they are not only over 25c but also carry a true rating.
    There is no real scale that manufactures have to follow to come up with a c rating so going with a well known brands such as traxxas spc or smc make all the difference in the world.
    He's running a 30c 5000mah battery, if said battery is truly 30c it is capable of 150amps and a setup that can pull 120 all day long.
    I cant say for certain but I would almost bet it is indeed the battery.
    I mentioned in my post unless its a traxxas 25c rated battery.

    Sorry someone was at the door, anyway has a battery of unknown name and may not be able to be said on the forums nor can I say for 100% certainty that this is the issue.
    That with everything he has explained and the number of times I have seen the exact same thing happen I would look into that direction first
    I have a 30c rated 4300mah 3s that charged and put into my 2650 setup would heat up the esc motor and lipo in a mater of minutes.
    Take that lipo out and install a 5200mah 50c and all the temps will drop right back to there respective range.

    Just for the record fellas a 30c 5000mah lipo is figured out doing simple math, thing is how true are the numbers marked on the lipo to it true performance capabilities.

    5000 x 30 (c rating) = 150,000 which translates to 150amps max continues delivery.
    This leaves no info or room for spiking or sagging of the lipo depending on age, internal resistance and one cells ability to maintain a more stable consistent then one or two of the other cells.
    I am no lipo specialist and with the exception of several reads including the one listed in post #26 have little more knowledge then anyone else with the exception of a few lipo specialist that do stop into the forum no and again.
    If Jakley chims in his word is golden imo, a few other are quite knowledgeable as well.
    I'm not one of them.
    Last edited by billy-bones; 06-03-2016 at 03:36 PM.
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  28. #28
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    Grimey, I'm not trying to hijack your thread, were in the same boat. haha I will do a test when my new battery arrives. 20c Venom 5400mah vs 60c SMC 7200mah, may the best temp win! In my Traxxas Slash 4x4, all modified out!! We're all about some Slashes, but we're also all about modifying.

    Billy Bones, I'll hit you up, I like the idea of building my own cap pack.
    Slash 4x4 MMP SCT 3800kv/Sidewinder 8 CC 2650kv

  29. #29
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    20c venom or 60c smc... I can tell you right now which will win, and that the venom will puff


    I run higher c ratings in my mini quadcopter.......

  30. #30
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    I am reading and can find out Monday.

    New truck today, ran my (Venom)5000mah 35c and hit thermal shutdown and still had 3.85 v per cell.... cooled down and finished the batt off.

    I am waiting until monday for my SMC 5600 60c with a Deans plug I will test again.

    I have found the caps cheap online thinking of going that route to stop ripples....
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  31. #31
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    Today I went racing with my friends in Vallejo, California. I have two different lipos. One is a 11.1v 5000 mah 25c. The other is a 11.1 7600 mah 75c 150c burst. The weather was 101f! The first lipo got the motor to 170 after I ran it out. The 11.1 7600 75c lipo only got the motor to 145f. The 5000mah lipo was pretty hot. The 7600 was warm but way cooler to the touch.
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  32. #32
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    What would a 4s do? Better temps because of power?
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  33. #33
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    So what c ratings do you guys believe? Traxxas doesn't offer a pack over 25c yet they run much of Castle's equipment. If a Traxxas pack at 25c is OK...how does one know a SMC,SPC, Floureon,etc,etc,etc is not?? I have a SMC and a couple Traxxas packs. The SMC is a 50c 3s and the Traxxas are 25c 2s....zero issues with any. Are we to assume the 50c SMC is the same as a 25c Traxxas? How can we assume a battery of lower c rating is responsible for over heat problems when it's obvious c ratings are very random?
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  34. #34
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    Grimey556, from reading your posts, it sounds like you tweaked some of the settings on your ESC. I'm not sure how familiar you are with all of the settings, but just to be on the safe side I would change EVERYTHING back to the default setting (usually has a * next to it) on the ESC and see how it runs afterwards. The only setting you might want to change is increasing your LVC cutoff (if needed).

    I had a similar problem a long time ago with my ET-3s (Rebadged MMP). One accidental mouse click changed the type of motor I was running and the motor started getting hot almost instantly. It was an easy fix for me because I knew I was just in there changing things around.
    Last edited by Silly Old Boy; 06-03-2016 at 11:04 PM.

  35. #35
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    I appreciate the battery theory, I really do. I believe it helps but I don't think it's my case just for the simple fact that when I checked my battery it is literally room temperature when my motor and ESC are running a hundred and sixty degrees. Another thing I don't understand this is a Mamba Monster. You shouldn't have to be putting on all these gadgets and gizmos on it for it to run correctly. It should run the way it should run. All the other attachments are just bonuses. I do run a glitch buster but I also understand that's not from Battery to ESC which the power caps hold supply so the ESC is not doing more work than needed. But these systems come with power caps already in them and we have to buy more to make them run efficiently? I tinkered with the ESC a little last night and tried to set everything as much as possible to default and that did seem to help. Today will be the true test when I run two to three packs through it. Thank you so much for everyone's help but I really do think it's something with my ESC that I did wrong, if not I'll be back on here asking questions again lol.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by bzissurfing View Post
    Grimey, I'm not trying to hijack your thread, were in the same boat. haha I will do a test when my new battery arrives. 20c Venom 5400mah vs 60c SMC 7200mah, may the best temp win! In my Traxxas Slash 4x4, all modified out!! We're all about some Slashes, but we're also all about modifying.

    Billy Bones, I'll hit you up, I like the idea of building my own cap pack.
    You're fine if anybody else is having this problem I want to tackle it. There doesn't seem to be any threads about people having these issues and having a true viable answer besides gearing I've looked. I also remove my chassis cover last night as well I do believe those can play a big part and not letting the ESC an engine breathe when the truck is moving at a decent speed air is going over top and underneath the chassis which is a considerable amount of wind to help cool the system. Today I definitely will have my answer just been busy with work haven't had a chance to run it really but from the speed runs I did last night I've already seen a difference and I will let you know exactly what I've done different. And exactly how my ESC is setup.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by grimey556 View Post
    I appreciate the battery theory, I really do. I believe it helps but I don't think it's my case just for the simple fact that when I checked my battery it is literally room temperature when my motor and ESC are running a hundred and sixty degrees. Another thing I don't understand this is a Mamba Monster. You shouldn't have to be putting on all these gadgets and gizmos on it for it to run correctly. It should run the way it should run. All the other attachments are just bonuses. I do run a glitch buster but I also understand that's not from Battery to ESC which the power caps hold supply so the ESC is not doing more work than needed. But these systems come with power caps already in them and we have to buy more to make them run efficiently? I tinkered with the ESC a little last night and tried to set everything as much as possible to default and that did seem to help. Today will be the true test when I run two to three packs through it. Thank you so much for everyone's help but I really do think it's something with my ESC that I did wrong, if not I'll be back on here asking questions again lol.
    My battery was not so cool. It always has been in my MMP SCT 3800kv, but not in this SW8 2650kv set up. I did not do a temp check on it, but it was purdy hot. Grimey, we might have different issues. I'm gonna start with a stronger battery.
    Slash 4x4 MMP SCT 3800kv/Sidewinder 8 CC 2650kv

  38. #38
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bzissurfing View Post
    Grimey, I'm not trying to hijack your thread, were in the same boat. haha I will do a test when my new battery arrives. 20c Venom 5400mah vs 60c SMC 7200mah, may the best temp win! In my Traxxas Slash 4x4, all modified out!! We're all about some Slashes, but we're also all about modifying.

    Billy Bones, I'll hit you up, I like the idea of building my own cap pack.
    No problem, I pm'ed you last night as I've been busy with so many other things I wasn't around the computer much.
    That said do your self a favor and dont even install a 20c venom lipo in a 2650 setup.
    I agree with jimbo74, "the venom will puff".
    You asking a lipo rated at 108amps on a good day to run a 1/8 setup that can pull 120ampa at the blink of an eye.
    I've watched 35c venom 4s 5000mah cook in the bigger scale castle setups.
    On the bright side the smc will be a great lipo, a bit to many mahs for my personal taste, I like to stay around 5200mah and no less then 50c.
    That smc is a 432amp lipo.
    The Venom is a 108amp lipo.
    I tried running a couple 2200mah 20c 3s venoms in my crawler and they got warm, then I put to parallel upping it to 4400mahs and 88amps which is fine for a brushed crawler that seldom is asked for full power.

    If you have had the esc hooked up to the castle link this is also some good input to follow up on.
    Grimey556, from reading your posts, it sounds like you tweaked some of the settings on your ESC. I'm not sure how familiar you are with all of the settings, but just to be on the safe side I would change EVERYTHING back to the default setting (usually has a * next to it) on the ESC and see how it runs afterwards. The only setting you might want to change is increasing your LVC cutoff (if needed).
    Last edited by billy-bones; 06-04-2016 at 08:25 AM.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by bzissurfing View Post
    My motor got hot as well, 165+. Running a venom 5400, 3s, 20c, 2.8 proline trenchers in the sand. I was full speed here and there with some rest stops. Sidewinder 8 with 2650 geared at 20/50. Waiting on a fan I ordered to see if that knocks the temp down. The outside air was 80* or so. The battery got hoy as well. But it was fun!
    2.8 trenchers in the sand with a high speed gear ratio? I feel that is pushing it lol. I feel sand and grass are the same when it comes to alot of drag. Maybe I am wrong but it seems you would be putting that setup to the test. Now in my case I am running 17/52 with 2.2 trenchers running on dirt and concrete and was getting hot. Are you running a chassis cover as well?

  40. #40
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    I think a big part of the problem is what everyone seems to think is to hot is just fine.
    A castle motor can run at 170f all day without a problem, these things dont have to be 120.
    I've stated this more then once, if I can keep my motor around 140-170, imo thats just fine.
    I can run my MT geared 18/54 or 20/50 with 2.8 trenchers in the dirt all day on 3s and if the ambient temps are no more the 80 at the most my rig will stay around 150-160, imo thats about perfect.
    I do make several holes in the body for air to inter and leave as well, the electronics have to breathe.
    This helps with parachuting as well.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]
    I put about 8 packs thru this thing this particular day and the motor hit 170 once when I was stuck in some thick grass.
    I've since cut the windows open as well and never had another issue.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

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