Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 41 to 80 of 119
  1. #41
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    42
    Quote Originally Posted by billy-bones View Post
    I think a big part of the problem is what everyone seems to think is to hot is just fine.
    A castle motor can run at 170f all day without a problem, these things dont have to be 120.
    I've stated this more then once, if I can keep my motor around 140-170, imo thats just fine.
    I can run my MT geared 18/54 or 20/50 with 2.8 trenchers in the dirt all day on 3s and if the ambient temps are no more the 80 at the most my rig will stay around 150-160, imo thats about perfect.
    I do make several holes in the body for air to inter and leave as well, the electronics have to breathe.
    This helps with parachuting as well.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]
    I put about 8 packs thru this thing this particular day and the motor hit 170 once when I was stuck in some thick grass.
    I've since cut the windows open as well and never had another issue.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    That's funny you say this Billy Bones. This is kind of what Castle told me when I gave them a call they seem to be normal to run at 140 to 160 degrees. Problem is I'm reaching it in less than 3 to 5 minutes. It seems to ring alarm bells there's too many people out there who run these things to the max and don't have temperatures like this until running for awhile. It's hard to find people with experience and knowledge and honesty like you. Most guys on here want to brag that they're Mamba Monster 2 2200kV, 2650kv is running at 60 degrees Fahrenheit all the time and if you look at a lot of threads that's what you'll tend to find. Makes the people who are trying to learn think that their system should run cooler than what it really does. 100% I agree with this. bzissurfing keep this thread going so we can figure out the problem you're having as well. When someone searches for a thread to find multiple problems. One thread with the same setup but possibly different problems is better than one thread having one issue and that is it. Keep us updated bz.
    Last edited by grimey556; 06-04-2016 at 03:42 PM.

  2. #42
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Kill Devil Hills, NC
    Posts
    109
    Quote Originally Posted by grimey556 View Post
    2.8 trenchers in the sand with a high speed gear ratio? I feel that is pushing it lol. I feel sand and grass are the same when it comes to alot of drag. Maybe I am wrong but it seems you would be putting that setup to the test. Now in my case I am running 17/52 with 2.2 trenchers running on dirt and concrete and was getting hot. Are you running a chassis cover as well?
    No chassis cover on mine.
    Slash 4x4 MMP SCT 3800kv/Sidewinder 8 CC 2650kv

  3. #43
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    58
    So a 2650kv is ok to run on a slash but a 5700kv is not?

  4. #44
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    582
    I understand about optimal running temps but running 165to 175 within 15 mins does not seem normal to me unless you only doing speed runs. I run single and dual 3S 35c ranging from 4300 to 6600mah on my E-Maxx, Stampede, Savage, and Colossus and none get that high. Why don't you go to your local hobby shop and ask them to borrow a 20c and high C rated batteries? Maybe you do have a bad battery? I would also do a factory reset to your ESC and try other batteries before adding caps.

  5. #45
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    229
    Quote Originally Posted by billy-bones View Post
    I think a big part of the problem is what everyone seems to think is to hot is just fine.
    A castle motor can run at 170f all day without a problem, these things dont have to be 120.
    I've stated this more then once, if I can keep my motor around 140-170, imo thats just fine.
    I can run my MT geared 18/54 or 20/50 with 2.8 trenchers in the dirt all day on 3s and if the ambient temps are no more the 80 at the most my rig will stay around 150-160, imo thats about perfect.
    I do make several holes in the body for air to inter and leave as well, the electronics have to breathe.
    This helps with parachuting as well.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]
    I put about 8 packs thru this thing this particular day and the motor hit 170 once when I was stuck in some thick grass.
    I've since cut the windows open as well and never had another issue.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    What kind of gearing do you run it at? Sorry if this was answered and I missed it or anything. :-)

    *Edit - wow... You answered IN the post! Lol. But I'm at the hospital for my 2nd child and just nervous and didn't read properly! Haha

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Stanleybb50; 06-05-2016 at 08:33 AM.

  6. #46
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    8,203
    Quote Originally Posted by datsun82 View Post
    So a 2650kv is ok to run on a slash but a 5700kv is not?
    A 4wd slash will fry a 5700kv 540 can in minutes.
    Thats a motor even a rustler will fight with but geared right on 2s the 5700 would probably be a rocket it a rusty.
    I have seen guys ru them in 2wd slash rig and geared right they'll do okay but have no torque.
    You want big torque need big block motor.

    Most guys on here want to brag that they're Mamba Monster 2 2200kV, 2650kv is running at 60 degrees Fahrenheit all the time and if you look at a lot of threads that's what you'll tend to find. Makes the people who are trying to learn think that their system should run cooler than what it really does
    Couldn't agree more cooler is better then over heating but not whats considered a normal running temp.
    Now your motor may hits 150 in 3 minute, this is no big deal if you run it another 5 minutes and do a temp check and find the motor still at 150.
    They may not have thermostats in them but geared right and enough air flow they too will reach a temperature plateau and remain there.
    Again when a race starts that motor is up to top running temp within the first two to three minutes max, thing is geared and powered correctly it will stay at that temp, according to tekin even perform better at a steady 160f
    Also a temp gun is a must no mater what your running, something could bind or get stuck in the drive-train and cause excessive pull on he motor.
    Another reason I dont care for monster mah batterys, you need to check your rig out from time to time.
    Are the wheels nuts tight, temp checks and anything else that can come loose.
    People buy these 7000-8200mah lipos that run to long and they forget to check these things, not to mention all the extra weight and size.
    I like and will stay in the 5300mah max and 5000mah min with no less then a 50c rating.
    Just my personal preference.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  7. #47
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Kill Devil Hills, NC
    Posts
    109
    I'm gonna take my rig out for another run, as is 20/50 and that ol' venom 20c 5400. I just want to get some temp readings. Then when the new 60c 7200mah comes in I'll do another similar run to compare. Thanks for all the insight, I'm sure Grimey is taking it all in also.

    I do want to add that my truck is cogging, but the guys on this forum said it was fine. It sounds horrible when I push it on the floor at a very slow rate, but the cogging stops when I give it a good push.
    Slash 4x4 MMP SCT 3800kv/Sidewinder 8 CC 2650kv

  8. #48
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Kill Devil Hills, NC
    Posts
    109



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Slash 4x4 MMP SCT 3800kv/Sidewinder 8 CC 2650kv

  9. #49
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    582

  10. #50
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    42
    Quote Originally Posted by bzissurfing View Post
    I'm gonna take my rig out for another run, as is 20/50 and that ol' venom 20c 5400. I just want to get some temp readings. Then when the new 60c 7200mah comes in I'll do another similar run to compare. Thanks for all the insight, I'm sure Grimey is taking it all in also.

    I do want to add that my truck is cogging, but the guys on this forum said it was fine. It sounds horrible when I push it on the floor at a very slow rate, but the cogging stops when I give it a good push.
    This is normal. It is different than rolling a velineon on the ground that is for sure.

  11. #51
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    42
    Quote Originally Posted by bzissurfing View Post
    I'm gonna take my rig out for another run, as is 20/50 and that ol' venom 20c 5400. I just want to get some temp readings. Then when the new 60c 7200mah comes in I'll do another similar run to compare. Thanks for all the insight, I'm sure Grimey is taking it all in also.

    I do want to add that my truck is cogging, but the guys on this forum said it was fine. It sounds horrible when I push it on the floor at a very slow rate, but the cogging stops when I give it a good push.
    BZ let me know if you see a considerable difference in temps when you get your new batteries. I've got some 40c's coming in the next couple days.

  12. #52
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Kill Devil Hills, NC
    Posts
    109
    I took my truck out for a run with the 3s 20c 5400 Venom and got a temp reading. I did about 15-20 minutes of some short speed runs on the street, some high grass passes and some toying around. My motor without a fan reached 180 and the ESC with a fan 120. I still had some battery left, but did not want to push it any higher. I'll be getting the 3s 60c 7200 SMC tomorrow or next day and I'll do a similar run to compare.

    I stopped periodically to get checks on the motor and the old "fingers on the motor for 3 second rule" doesn't work at 160.
    Slash 4x4 MMP SCT 3800kv/Sidewinder 8 CC 2650kv

  13. #53
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    229
    I asked this in another thread but feel it's worthy here. I'm still waiting for Tower Hobbies to get more Castle 2650's in. I have it ordered and waiting on shipping. But when I install my Castle I don't wanna cook it too!


    Here's what I asked in the other thread:

    Here's a good place to ask.. I just got done blowing a GoolRC motor in my Slash 4x4 with Mt tires yesterday. I think I took my new Hobbywing SC-8 with it as at least one of the capacitors blew in the ESC... Motor is now hard to turn too.

    Had it with 20/54 gearing. It's a 2600kv motor that I blew. Ran it on 3s for all of 5 minutes when this transpired too. I have no doubt it was user error (too high gearing?)

    So I have a Leopard 2650kv on the way and have another SC-8 I was gonna use for my other Slash build.

    But the question is what gearing should I run with Stampede size tires on this thing? I'd like to run both 2s and 3s.

    Here's the Leopard that will be here tomorrow. Will be paired with a 120amp Hobbywing SC-8.

    Leopard Brushless Inrunner 2650Kv 4-Pole for RC Boats and 90mm EDF Airplanes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CBTY68U..._I4cwxbJWB12JR


    Here's the one I blew in 5 min

    GoolRC 3660 4Poles 2600KV Brushless Motor for RC 1/8 1/10 Truck off-road Car Boat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WQYBAOI..._G7cwxbTJSS4WT

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

  14. #54
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Scandinavia
    Posts
    31
    Quote Originally Posted by billy-bones View Post
    If your lipo and motor/esc are getting hot and everything else has been checked,YES a battery that cant deliver enough juice to the setup will get things hot including the battery.
    IMO a better battery and or a cap pack will help a lot.
    My motor and esc's dropped 15 after adding a capacitor cap pack and my lipos being 50c never got hot but even they ran cooler after words, why, its called a ripple effect.
    Wait.. .wait... sorry for butting in here but, this is a thing? Too weak batteries can actually cause both the motor and ESC to overheat?

    That's... huh. You know, I really wish this wasn't the first time I heard about it because that might just possibly explain some heat issues I've been having for quite a while... Sounds like all the more reason to look into getting another pack to test with...
    I didn't know it could break THAT way...

  15. #55
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    42
    Quote Originally Posted by Stanleybb50 View Post
    I asked this in another thread but feel it's worthy here. I'm still waiting for Tower Hobbies to get more Castle 2650's in. I have it ordered and waiting on shipping. But when I install my Castle I don't wanna cook it too!


    Here's what I asked in the other thread:

    Here's a good place to ask.. I just got done blowing a GoolRC motor in my Slash 4x4 with Mt tires yesterday. I think I took my new Hobbywing SC-8 with it as at least one of the capacitors blew in the ESC... Motor is now hard to turn too.

    Had it with 20/54 gearing. It's a 2600kv motor that I blew. Ran it on 3s for all of 5 minutes when this transpired too. I have no doubt it was user error (too high gearing?)

    So I have a Leopard 2650kv on the way and have another SC-8 I was gonna use for my other Slash build.

    But the question is what gearing should I run with Stampede size tires on this thing? I'd like to run both 2s and 3s.

    Here's the Leopard that will be here tomorrow. Will be paired with a 120amp Hobbywing SC-8.

    Leopard Brushless Inrunner 2650Kv 4-Pole for RC Boats and 90mm EDF Airplanes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CBTY68U..._I4cwxbJWB12JR


    Here's the one I blew in 5 min

    GoolRC 3660 4Poles 2600KV Brushless Motor for RC 1/8 1/10 Truck off-road Car Boat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WQYBAOI..._G7cwxbTJSS4WT

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
    Going down to 18 or 17 on your pinion should help quite a bit. More torque for the sacrifice of top end. I wouldnt change the spur. Im running17/52 on sct beadllocks 2.2 which is close to 18/54 which would be a good start for you

  16. #56
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    42
    Quote Originally Posted by Kompi View Post
    Wait.. .wait... sorry for butting in here but, this is a thing? Too weak batteries can actually cause both the motor and ESC to overheat?

    That's... huh. You know, I really wish this wasn't the first time I heard about it because that might just possibly explain some heat issues I've been having for quite a while... Sounds like all the more reason to look into getting another pack to test with...
    I didnt know till billy bones brought it up. And it does make since. So I went and ordered higher discharge batteries to see if it helps. If you think about it these motors are not tiny motors and esc's. They put out some juice. Like running a tuned v8 on unleaded probably wont work out too well. Going higher on the discharge wont hurt if the problem persists we will try to help. Goodluck!

  17. #57
    RC Champion Dcuda69's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    WI
    Posts
    2,972
    Quote Originally Posted by Stanleybb50 View Post
    I asked this in another thread but feel it's worthy here. I'm still waiting for Tower Hobbies to get more Castle 2650's in. I have it ordered and waiting on shipping. But when I install my Castle I don't wanna cook it too!


    Here's what I asked in the other thread:

    Here's a good place to ask.. I just got done blowing a GoolRC motor in my Slash 4x4 with Mt tires yesterday. I think I took my new Hobbywing SC-8 with it as at least one of the capacitors blew in the ESC... Motor is now hard to turn too.

    Had it with 20/54 gearing. It's a 2600kv motor that I blew. Ran it on 3s for all of 5 minutes when this transpired too. I have no doubt it was user error (too high gearing?)

    So I have a Leopard 2650kv on the way and have another SC-8 I was gonna use for my other Slash build.

    But the question is what gearing should I run with Stampede size tires on this thing? I'd like to run both 2s and 3s.

    Here's the Leopard that will be here tomorrow. Will be paired with a 120amp Hobbywing SC-8.

    Leopard Brushless Inrunner 2650Kv 4-Pole for RC Boats and 90mm EDF Airplanes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CBTY68U..._I4cwxbJWB12JR


    Here's the one I blew in 5 min

    GoolRC 3660 4Poles 2600KV Brushless Motor for RC 1/8 1/10 Truck off-road Car Boat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WQYBAOI..._G7cwxbTJSS4WT

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
    That Leopard should be very similar to the Kershaw 2700kv I have. I started at 17/54 and ended up at 20/54. Never had heat issues with it. Start at 18/54 and watch your temps. I also run a HW SC8. That motor should be a good fit in your Slash. My Kershaw is a great motor on 3s and a beast on 4s!!
    Slash 4x4 Ult 2150kv
    Rustler vxl
    Ford GT vxl

  18. #58
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    229
    Quote Originally Posted by Dcuda69 View Post
    That Leopard should be very similar to the Kershaw 2700kv I have. I started at 17/54 and ended up at 20/54. Never had heat issues with it. Start at 18/54 and watch your temps. I also run a HW SC8. That motor should be a good fit in your Slash. My Kershaw is a great motor on 3s and a beast on 4s!!
    Good to hear. I'm hoping it was just that GoolRC motor being a piece of garbage or something. I mean 20/54 was what I was using on it with 3s... For like 5 minutes. Granted they're 2.8 Stampede size tires, but that was QUICK! It was so hit I couldn't even touch it... Could feel the heat through the chassis, and the chassis bolts almost burned me.

    Id be totally cool with it all if it didn't take the SC-8 out with it. The wires were hot going to it and everything... Argh...

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Stanleybb50; 06-08-2016 at 03:30 PM.

  19. #59
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    229
    Just threw the Stock VXL motor and ESC back into this project car with x-duty shafts... Haha. Overkill to say the least.

    But I just ran that stock motor (3500kv) and esc on 2s with a 13t pinion all out as hard as I could for like 10 minutes and I didn't take a reading, but it's not that hot...

    I'm starting to wonder if there's something up with that particular 3s battery that took down that motor and ESC. I had it installed on a different stock Slash 4x4 Platinum (short course tires and all) to try out 3s for the first time and literally only ran like 3-5 min and I think it had toasted a capacitor in that stock setup.

    Is there any way a battery could be faulty that could cause this? It's worth noting that the Traxxas stampede LED lights would dim/go out when I would hit the gas even slightly from a stop with the SC8 yesterday... I should have known something was up.

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

  20. #60
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    103
    I have the Leopard 2700kv 4 pole part#4065/2y in my P4de. I am running 18/50 gearing with hobywing 8sc and have yet to have problems. Runing 2.8 trenchers on both 2s and 3s. Now it has not gotten really hot outside yet, but I have not had a temp over 160' yet running a pair of packs back to back. I am sure in hot weather, I might change back to 18/54 maybe... I also have a 20t to toss on for 4s speed runs..

  21. #61
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Kill Devil Hills, NC
    Posts
    109
    I got my SMC 3s 60C 7200mah, charged it and ran it like it I did yesterday with the Venom 3s 20c 5400mah. I reached 185 in about 20 minutes of speed runs and grass runs and misc. jumps. The battery stayed cool, but the motor got hot. I'll strap a fan on it and see what happens next.

    I was popping wheelies at 40 mph!!! She's got some power! I stripped one of my wheels also. The MIP metal hubs tore that plastic wheel to shreds. The neighbors were all watching and laughing. I was just out front of my house in the street and their yards. haha

    Also, for "science" I took my temp gun to work today, I'm a pool cleaner. I tested 10-12 pool motors and they were 135-150 degrees. I feel like the "3 second touch and you're alright" is around 140 degrees. I touched all the motors and was fine for 3-5 seconds, but my RC motor at 160-180 I got less than 3 seconds before I pulled away.
    Last edited by bzissurfing; 06-08-2016 at 06:13 PM.
    Slash 4x4 MMP SCT 3800kv/Sidewinder 8 CC 2650kv

  22. #62
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. GeneralPede01's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Toomsuba, Ms
    Posts
    3,187
    I never had heat problems when I was geared 20/52 running 3s when running 2650kv. My problems didn't start occurring until I started running 4s. Which forced me to drop to 17/52 which helped some but it would get very hot if I drove aggressive. It ran over 200 a few times which was not good. I dropped to a 14t but never got to get a reading because the motor locked up on the first run after I installed the 14t.



    Member of the triple digit club 100mph p4de

  23. #63
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    229
    Still scratching my head over it all. Dang... Lol. All the solders look solid. I see no reason why it should have gone South like it did on me, except if the motor itself was defective.

    For now I'm thinking about researching how to install these capacitors to essentially replace the one I blew. It spewed out oil or whatever the heck is in those things as well.

    The light dimming makes me scratch KY head too. I have the stock VXL on there now with the same battery and no dimming at all, even if I forceably make it cog real bad.

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

  24. #64
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    42
    Quote Originally Posted by bzissurfing View Post
    I got my SMC 3s 60C 7200mah, charged it and ran it like it I did yesterday with the Venom 3s 20c 5400mah. I reached 185 in about 20 minutes of speed runs and grass runs and misc. jumps. The battery stayed cool, but the motor got hot. I'll strap a fan on it and see what happens next.

    I was popping wheelies at 40 mph!!! She's got some power! I stripped one of my wheels also. The MIP metal hubs tore that plastic wheel to shreds. The neighbors were all watching and laughing. I was just out front of my house in the street and their yards. haha

    Also, for "science" I took my temp gun to work today, I'm a pool cleaner. I tested 10-12 pool motors and they were 135-150 degrees. I feel like the "3 second touch and you're alright" is around 140 degrees. I touched all the motors and was fine for 3-5 seconds, but my RC motor at 160-180 I got less than 3 seconds before I pulled away.
    I had the exact same problem with my proline wheels. Went through 2 pairs before glueing the MIP hubs into the wheels and now it doesnt do it. This was the only way I could get the MIP hubs from eating my wheels.

  25. #65
    RC Champion Dcuda69's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    WI
    Posts
    2,972
    Quote Originally Posted by grimey556 View Post
    I had the exact same problem with my proline wheels. Went through 2 pairs before glueing the MIP hubs into the wheels and now it doesnt do it. This was the only way I could get the MIP hubs from eating my wheels.
    How do you glue MIP hexes into a wheel? Mine are keyed and held onto the axle with grubs that you wouldn't be able to get to if the hex was glued into the wheel. What am I missing? I stripped a couple 2.8 Talons when I switched to the 2400kv Traxxas/Castle and 3s. HR 17mm adapters cured that issue.
    Slash 4x4 Ult 2150kv
    Rustler vxl
    Ford GT vxl

  26. #66
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. GeneralPede01's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Toomsuba, Ms
    Posts
    3,187
    Quote Originally Posted by Dcuda69 View Post
    How do you glue MIP hexes into a wheel? Mine are keyed and held onto the axle with grubs that you wouldn't be able to get to if the hex was glued into the wheel. What am I missing? I stripped a couple 2.8 Talons when I switched to the 2400kv Traxxas/Castle and 3s. HR 17mm adapters cured that issue.
    You don't have to use the grub screw, I took all of mine out when I got the new 10mm offset adapters, because I had a couple grub screws back out on my 6mm adapters and now the mip hex is stuck inside the hot racing adapters.



    Member of the triple digit club 100mph p4de

  27. #67
    RC Qualifier Silly Old Boy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    NE PA
    Posts
    919
    The grub only keeps the hex on the axle when you pull off the tire. It is not necessary as long as you don't mind popping the hex out of your wheel every time you take the wheels off (if they are glued in you won't be popping them off anyway). The wheel nut will keep your wheel and hex on the axle without the grub screw.

  28. #68
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    229
    Quote Originally Posted by Stanleybb50 View Post
    Still scratching my head over it all. Dang... Lol. All the solders look solid. I see no reason why it should have gone South like it did on me, except if the motor itself was defective.

    For now I'm thinking about researching how to install these capacitors to essentially replace the one I blew. It spewed out oil or whatever the heck is in those things as well.

    The light dimming makes me scratch KY head too. I have the stock VXL on there now with the same battery and no dimming at all, even if I forceably make it cog real bad.

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
    For the record, I got a Leopard 2650 motor and a new SC-8 Hobbywing ESC and used 18/54 gearing (as opposed to the way too high 20/54 I had in that other combo) and ran it pretty hard and only got it up to about 160.

    I dropped it down to a 16t pinion and ran it very hard for a good 20 minutes, and temps only hit around 120 for both motor and ESC. This is with MT tires around 5" in diameter on my Slash 4x4. I think I found my sweet spot in gearing here.

    When I build my slash 4x4 Platinum (that is staying in SCT form with SCT tires, I'll probably then use an 18t pinion.

    I like the Leopard so well and has Amazon Prime shipping, I'm thinking about cancelling the order for the Castle 2650 (out of stock and will ship when it's back in stock). But this Leopard is impressing me. I loved the packaging too! Came in a nice little tube shaped box. Just nice presentation.



    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

  29. #69
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    229
    Oh and I should mention that the 16/54 with the MT tires and 3s is good for 50mph theoretical I believe I determined? All while not getting the least bit hot on this 88 degree day. Makes me very happy and put a big smile on my face!

    I drove my ERBE after which has the optional spur installed on 4s, and it felt absolutely SLOW in comparison... Which really shows how fast we are making these slash's!

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

  30. #70
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    229
    Here's the box. Haha it's the little things with me.



    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

  31. #71
    RC Champion Dcuda69's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    WI
    Posts
    2,972
    Looks good Stanley! That Leopard should be a lot of fun! I think the issue was the GoolRC motor not the gearing. It was the same-ish kv but in a 3660 can, That 3674 can is a great fit in a Slash. I love my Kershaw of that size
    Slash 4x4 Ult 2150kv
    Rustler vxl
    Ford GT vxl

  32. #72
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    8,203
    For the record, I got a Leopard 2650 motor and a new SC-8 Hobbywing ESC and used 18/54 gearing (as opposed to the way too high 20/54 I had in that other combo) and ran it pretty hard and only got it up to about 160.
    I cant speak for the esc but 160 is perfect for the motor, if thats pushing it hard I'd stay there;120 is to low, maybe 120 for the esc but I would much rather have my motor at the recommended temp and 160 is about perfect.
    I have rarely have an esc go over 120f sometimes 125 but will add the MM2 continuously running fan, the MMP and RX-8 have thermostatically controlled fans that increase or decrease with the esc's temp.

    I have to take some time and find that Tekin article about trying to keep your motor at or as close to 160 all the time for optimum performance
    If my motors start to crawl over 170 - 180f I re-gear the rig but dont run fans on any of my motors.


    I like the motor box.
    Kinda looks like a spry on cologne lol.
    Last edited by billy-bones; 06-12-2016 at 02:35 PM.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  33. #73
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    229
    Quote Originally Posted by Dcuda69 View Post
    Looks good Stanley! That Leopard should be a lot of fun! I think the issue was the GoolRC motor not the gearing. It was the same-ish kv but in a 3660 can, That 3674 can is a great fit in a Slash. I love my Kershaw of that size
    Good to hear! I did cancel the order for the Castle as I'm liking this Leopard so much. So I got another for the Slash that's staying in SCT form. Can't wait to get a drive if that puppy.

    Only drawback is that I seem to be needing stiffer Springs to compensate for the added weight I'm carrying around - haha.

    Quote Originally Posted by billy-bones View Post
    I cant speak for the esc but 160 is perfect for the motor, if thats pushing it hard I'd stay there;120 is to low, maybe 120 for the esc but I would much rather have my motor at the recommended temp and 160 is about perfect.
    I have rarely have an esc go over 120f sometimes 125 but will add the MM2 continuously running fan, the MMP and RX-8 have thermostatically controlled fans that increase or decrease with the esc's temp.

    I have to take some time and find that Tekin article about trying to keep your motor at or as close to 160 all the time for optimum performance
    If my motors start to crawl over 170 - 180f I re-gear the rig but dont run fans on any of my motors.


    I like the motor box.
    Kinda looks like a spry on cologne lol.
    Cool. I'll pay close attention. It was only 150 after some pretty dang hard bashing tonight. It was quite a bit cooler outside temp today though.

    And yep! Love the box.

    Im not sure if I'm allowed to say here, but I just purchased a Tekno ET48.3 and am mating it to a 6 pole Tekin 1950 motor and a Hobbywing 150a ESC. Can't wait to get it built!

    I'm probably/maybe gonna basically sorta convert my ERBE to a Brushless Summit (without the locking Diff and the extended arms in the back).

    Loving my current rigs. This slash with the 2650 Leopard is an absolute CANNON! . I can't express how amazed I am in 3s... Makes my ERBE feel so so so slow... Lol.

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Stanleybb50; 06-12-2016 at 10:15 PM.

  34. #74
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    582
    Quote Originally Posted by grimey556 View Post
    I didnt know till billy bones brought it up. And it does make since. So I went and ordered higher discharge batteries to see if it helps. If you think about it these motors are not tiny motors and esc's. They put out some juice. Like running a tuned v8 on unleaded probably wont work out too well. Going higher on the discharge wont hurt if the problem persists we will try to help. Goodluck!
    Did you get the batteries yet? Were you able to borrow someone else's batteries to test? It would be great testing another 30c and 50+battery and see if you have the same issue. Maybe you have a hub or binding issue. Just slight enough to cause strain. Maybe it is a bad bearing? I run 35C, larger pinion, and in grass and have no issues. Did you ever post a pic of your car? You not running X-Maxx tires are you? lol.

  35. #75
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    229
    Quote Originally Posted by Blkdrgn808 View Post
    Did you get the batteries yet? Were you able to borrow someone else's batteries to test? It would be great testing another 30c and 50+battery and see if you have the same issue. Maybe you have a hub or binding issue. Just slight enough to cause strain. Maybe it is a bad bearing? I run 35C, larger pinion, and in grass and have no issues. Did you ever post a pic of your car? You not running X-Maxx tires are you? lol.
    I'm not the Op that posted about that issue, but in accordance with what was mentioned about 2s running hotter - I did also seem to see that result. It needs to pull a lot of amps from the 7.4 volt 2s to get it moving where with the 3s, the amp hit is likely easier on the motor and ESC.

    Mine really did seem to run cooler on 3s as compared to 2s with the 120amp Hobbywing ESC and 2650 motor. I also saw that BEC "battery elimination circuit" hit when it would cog with 2s and the lights (stampede lights) would blink off for a moment when it would cog. I don't see that on 3s.




    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

    But I do have another issue after putting in the stinking Tekno Big Bone... I guess I gotta rip it back apart and shave down a bit of the chassis... Loud, clanky and rubbing on the chassis. Argh.

    Gotta loosen the Revo slipper a bit too. Haha - doesn't slip one bit.

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
    Last edited by cooleocool; 06-14-2016 at 09:35 AM. Reason: merge

  36. #76
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    8,203
    Quote Originally Posted by Stanleybb50 View Post
    But I do have another issue after putting in the stinking Tekno Big Bone... I guess I gotta rip it back apart and shave down a bit of the chassis... Loud, clanky and rubbing on the chassis. Argh.

    Gotta loosen the Revo slipper a bit too. Haha - doesn't slip one bit.

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
    Yea they should put that in a note when you buy them.
    You have to remove about 1mm of chassis material from under the front or it will rub.
    I thought I had a pic of where it needs to be hit with a dremel but I cant find it.
    Any way pull the front end off and you'll probably see where it was hitting.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  37. #77
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    229
    Quote Originally Posted by billy-bones View Post
    Yea they should put that in a note when you buy them.
    You have to remove about 1mm of chassis material from under the front or it will rub.
    I thought I had a pic of where it needs to be hit with a dremel but I cant find it.
    Any way pull the front end off and you'll probably see where it was hitting.
    Yeah - I hope that solves all the noise. Haha. Clank, rap, Clank. I did tighten the grub screw which was loose right away too.

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

  38. #78
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. GeneralPede01's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Toomsuba, Ms
    Posts
    3,187

    Castle 2650kv getting hot! Help!

    Don't have them problems with the stock shaft lol.



    Member of the triple digit club 100mph p4de

  39. #79
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    229
    Quote Originally Posted by GeneralPede01 View Post
    Don't have them problems with the stock shaft lol.



    Member of the triple digit club 100mph p4de
    I'm considering going back! Hopefully the shaving solves it.

    The wife is on my case over spending too much time at the hobby though... So time to work on em is thin!

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

    Quote Originally Posted by billy-bones View Post
    Yea they should put that in a note when you buy them.
    You have to remove about 1mm of chassis material from under the front or it will rub.
    I thought I had a pic of where it needs to be hit with a dremel but I cant find it.
    Any way pull the front end off and you'll probably see where it was hitting.
    Oh and I had found this from my research.



    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
    Last edited by cooleocool; 06-14-2016 at 09:35 AM. Reason: merge

  40. #80
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. GeneralPede01's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Toomsuba, Ms
    Posts
    3,187
    Quote Originally Posted by Stanleybb50 View Post
    I'm considering going back! Hopefully the shaving solves it.

    The wife is on my case over spending too much time at the hobby though... So time to work on em is thin!

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
    The shaving should solve it, jimbo has a pic of his chassis since he just done this not long ago. Maybe he will chime in with that pic.



    Member of the triple digit club 100mph p4de

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •