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  1. #1
    RC Competitor
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    Slash 4x4 Truggy Build

    I've used the forums quite a bit over the past few months in building my current model so thought I'd post some of my results from what I have tried.

    I started with a rustler VXL last year and after some tweaking decided it was time to go for a 4x4 model with more power. I bought a used Platinum roller from eBay and put a Hobbywing Quicrun 150a ESC and 4274 2000kv 1/8 motor. It's built for speed and used mainly on a grass field but I've also run it on the beach and got it to 62mph. I typically run it at about 48mph max on grass.
    It's built primarily for speed over looks!


    Here are some of my experiences and advice I've learnt since building it:

    - Car features: RPM shock towers, A-arms. Annsmann body, teknik big bone centre drive shaft, LCG, aluminium 17mm wheel spacers

    - Radio gear is latest TQI transmitter with Bluetooth, TSM receiver with voltage and temp sensors, steering servo is Traxxas 2075

    - Started with ******* 5000mah 25c lipos and now running floureon 5500mah 35c batteries (2x 3s in series)

    - I went through the a number of 1/8 buggy wheels, they just don't hold up and constantly need to be re-glued, I'm currently running some hot bodies 1/8 wheels with fishing line wrapped around them, not perfect and requires maintenance but does the job since there are few belted options for off-road

    - After breaking a few driveshafts, I replaced the bearings in the rear carriers and upgraded to T-Maxx shafts, been running for a couple of months and no signs of wear, a recommended upgrade. I've left the fronts for now but may upgrade later

    - Currently geared at 17/38 mod1. I've tried a number of combinations and nearly cooked the motor (melted the insulation and desoldered a bullet connector) when I had it geared too high. I'd recomm no mod1 as an upgrade, just using standard traxxas spur and ********* pinion. I originally had an aluminium castle pinion and the teeth bent completely out of shape after little over a month!

    - Smoked an ESC and lost a lipo in the process, possibly down to overgearing or a bad cable repair job on one of the cables


    I'll add anything else as I think of it, any advice welcome!











  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Good job and looks good, but does the back of your front tires rub the body when steering is fully locked and suspension is compressed?
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  3. #3
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    The steering limits are set from the android app, but it does occasionally rub under heavy cornering.
    The wheel spacers helped, so it's better than it was.

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. GeneralPede01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by garethalanjames View Post
    I've used the forums quite a bit over the past few months in building my current model so thought I'd post some of my results from what I have tried.

    I started with a rustler VXL last year and after some tweaking decided it was time to go for a 4x4 model with more power. I bought a used Platinum roller from eBay and put a Hobbywing Quicrun 150a ESC and 4274 2000kv 1/8 motor. It's built for speed and used mainly on a grass field but I've also run it on the beach and got it to 62mph. I typically run it at about 48mph max on grass.
    It's built primarily for speed over looks!


    Here are some of my experiences and advice I've learnt since building it:

    - Car features: RPM shock towers, A-arms. Annsmann body, teknik big bone centre drive shaft, LCG, aluminium 17mm wheel spacers

    - Radio gear is latest TQI transmitter with Bluetooth, TSM receiver with voltage and temp sensors, steering servo is Traxxas 2075

    - Started with ******* 5000mah 25c lipos and now running floureon 5500mah 35c batteries (2x 3s in series)

    - I went through the a number of 1/8 buggy wheels, they just don't hold up and constantly need to be re-glued, I'm currently running some hot bodies 1/8 wheels with fishing line wrapped around them, not perfect and requires maintenance but does the job since there are few belted options for off-road

    - After breaking a few driveshafts, I replaced the bearings in the rear carriers and upgraded to T-Maxx shafts, been running for a couple of months and no signs of wear, a recommended upgrade. I've left the fronts for now but may upgrade later

    - Currently geared at 17/38 mod1. I've tried a number of combinations and nearly cooked the motor (melted the insulation and desoldered a bullet connector) when I had it geared too high. I'd recomm no mod1 as an upgrade, just using standard traxxas spur and ********* pinion. I originally had an aluminium castle pinion and the teeth bent completely out of shape after little over a month!

    - Smoked an ESC and lost a lipo in the process, possibly down to overgearing or a bad cable repair job on one of the cables


    I'll add anything else as I think of it, any advice welcome!










    That gearing is a little high, nothing wrong with using mod1 gears. Just have to use the correct combination. That 17/38 would be close to equal as running 22/50 .8/32 pitch gears. 17/38 = 2.23 final drive ratio and 22/50= 2.27 final drive ratio.



    Member of the triple digit club 100mph p4de

  5. #5
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    I know it's a little on the high side, I've ended up. With that gearing after I bought a number of pinions from hobbling, I've worked my way through them to find the maximum it can comfortably take while monitoring temps via the app.

    I'm considering buying the GPS/ expander for it too, but here in the UK those two items cost the equivalent of $150, so I'm using an old android phone and the Ulysse app at the moment.
    I'd still be interested in hearing people's thoughts on whether the GPS is worth it.

  6. #6
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    An update on a couple of things that may be of interest to slash owners that I have done...

    Firstly, I had an issue with sloppy steering and rear wheels due to wear of the axle carriers, rather than spending out for replacements I decided to drill out the worn parts and force in a steel insert, the results after a couple of test runs are very positive. Unfortunately I can't really recommend what to use for others for the steel inserts as I just managed to find some parts amongst some of the junk I have.



    Secondly, my constant issue with tyres ballooning/ splitting and detaching from the wheel.
    I have tried something similar previously without luck but this time I changed my technique and so far, so good! I've also tried taping in the past but find it does not last.

    I bought a cheap Chinese wheel and tyre set and didn't want to risk messing up a set of proline. Surpringly they were not bad!
    What I did was scrub the inside of the tyres and give a good sanding to key the surface, then applied some contact adhesive. I then got some strips of plasterboard (scrim) tape and coated in contact adhesive. When touch dry, I applied the tape to the inside of the tyre. I allowed 24hrs too dry fully in he open before CA gluing to the wheels which I had also cleaned and sanded ready. Up until now I had always used super glue to glue the tyre to the rims but wanted to make sure they were as sturdy as possible.





    Holding up well after 3 runs and all balanced.
    Last edited by garethalanjames; 06-12-2016 at 08:52 AM.

  7. #7
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    Just thought I'd update this thread, I've been a bit quiet on here but still working on the car.

    I'm still using the same cheap wheels and they are holding up unbelievably well!

    I did invest in the GPS/ expansion module although I can't use it on my phone properly at the moment as the traxxas app doesn't work on the latest version of android.

    I've had issues with stripped spur gears recently which I believe was down to slipper being too tight but loosening it slight seemed to cause issues with slipping. I've just upgraded to the revo sized slipper and it's instantly much better, it's not something I even thought about doing until recently but definitely worth it.

    I've also added a heatsink and fan for the motor. For both the ESC and motor fan I have also added a plastic mesh as I was constantly breaking fan blades before. It's on eBay for pennies and is marketed for use on PC cooling fans.
    Last edited by garethalanjames; 02-25-2017 at 04:55 PM.

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier StampedeSwag13's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by garethalanjames View Post
    An update on a couple of things that may be of interest to slash owners that I have done...

    Firstly, I had an issue with sloppy steering and rear wheels due to wear of the axle carriers, rather than spending out for replacements I decided to drill out the worn parts and force in a steel insert, the results after a couple of test runs are very positive. Unfortunately I can't really recommend what to use for others for the steel inserts as I just managed to find some parts amongst some of the junk I have.



    Secondly, my constant issue with tyres ballooning/ splitting and detaching from the wheel.
    I have tried something similar previously without luck but this time I changed my technique and so far, so good! I've also tried taping in the past but find it does not last.

    I bought a cheap Chinese wheel and tyre set and didn't want to risk messing up a set of proline. Surpringly they were not bad!
    What I did was scrub the inside of the tyres and give a good sanding to key the surface, then applied some contact adhesive. I then got some strips of plasterboard (scrim) tape and coated in contact adhesive. When touch dry, I applied the tape to the inside of the tyre. I allowed 24hrs too dry fully in he open before CA gluing to the wheels which I had also cleaned and sanded ready. Up until now I had always used super glue to glue the tyre to the rims but wanted to make sure they were as sturdy as possible.





    Holding up well after 3 runs and all balanced.

    Is that stock driveshafts I see?!? (1st pic)
    and RC pilots say RC cars can't fly!

  9. #9
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    I was running the stock shafts originally but after breaking a few, I upgraded to tmaxx 2.5 shafts all round. I've been running them about a year and haven't broken one since.

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier IanRose's Avatar
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    EY, I just noticed youre using the simple style 17mm adapters, most likely from eBay. How do they work?
    ------
    How to Rc: Send them high, watch them die.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanRose View Post
    EY, I just noticed youre using the simple style 17mm adapters, most likely from eBay. How do they work?
    I think I had one or two go over the course of 8 months, so not bad considering the cost of them and the power going through them.

    The one in those pictures are actually 12mm with an extra 17mm plastic adapter due to the original wheels the car had. It was adding some slop to I upgraded them to the chunkier 17mm versions. Took some slight modification but much less slop now, again just the eBay specials.

    It's running at its best at the moment, I only have the choice of grass nearby and it will do 60mph even in damp grass.

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