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  1. #1
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    Rear diff meshing issue

    So I got this used slash 4x4, and it seems to have an issue with the rear diff pinion. Once I install the rear bulkhead onto the chassis, then it pushes the pinion too deep inside as if I have too many shims.

    How do I adjust the meshing?

    Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    you can't

    that is the way the rear diff is, it makes a lot of noise, but there is nothing wrong with it

  3. #3
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Are you using the stock slipper? I suppose if you had the right shim, you could space it into the diff assembly a little bit, but AFAIK a proper slipper/center diff shouldn't push the pinion into the assembly.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  4. #4
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    I'm using a center diff. I've never had issues with my stampede and a slipper.

    The thing is if i spin the center shaft by hand, it won't turn the rear wheels. Will it act differently when the motor is installed and is sending power to the center diff?

    Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk

  5. #5
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    Yes, it will be pushed out against the diff house bearing. I was worried about that too, but think its normal.
    Slash 4x4 / Erbe / Custum Erbe / Bandit VXL

  6. #6
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IllusionX View Post
    I'm using a center diff. I've never had issues with my stampede and a slipper.

    The thing is if i spin the center shaft by hand, it won't turn the rear wheels. Will it act differently when the motor is installed and is sending power to the center diff?

    Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk
    I never tried turning the wheels by hand through the drivetrain.

    You can also adjust the position of part TRA6888 on the shaft that goes into the slipper/center diff so that there is more play on the center driveshaft (and presumably it will apply less pressure against the center diff into the rear bulkhead). That's the only thing I can think of that would cause force to be applied against the pinion gear into the bulkhead. Normally the spinning ring gear should cause the pinion to be pushed out of the bulkhead against the bearing it's seated in.
    Last edited by RazorRC22; 06-08-2016 at 03:15 AM.
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  7. #7
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    6888 is already set to have plenty of play for the shaft.

    The motor mount actually limits the distance of the spur gear assembly/out drive in a fixed position.

    Maybe the LCG chassis have issues? I'm gonna take off the motor mount and see what's up.

    It feels like the pinion is about 0.2mm too close to the ring gear...

    Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk

  8. #8
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    There is a small washer in the center diff that spaces the center diff pinion in a little bit. If it's not there, I guess it would push the shaft out a little more than normal. Maybe it's missing?

    Part 6884

    https://traxxas.com/explodedviews/68...Qi-24GHz-radio
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  9. #9
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    6884 comes with many parts. I'll take the diff apart see what's up.

    What weight oil should go in there?

    Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    if it is noise you are worried about, the rear diff is noisy with nothing wrong......

  11. #11
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IllusionX View Post
    6884 comes with many parts. I'll take the diff apart see what's up.

    What weight oil should go in there?

    Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk
    I'm currently running 100k, but next time I take apart my center diff I'm going to try 60k.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  12. #12
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    I put a motor in and gave it a spin. Seems alright.

    Now I need a 5x6cm plate to mount my ESC.

    Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk

  13. #13
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IllusionX View Post
    Now I need a 5x6cm plate to mount my ESC.

    Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk
    STRC makes a nice light carbon fiber one, or aluminum one that mounts in the same location.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  14. #14
    RC Champion SlashMaxx4x4's Avatar
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    I just took apart my rear diff due to having to replace a broken axle. I am going to get MIP X duties, but I am wondering what weight to put in my diff, what grease to use, and if there are any other good upgrades to do now while I have the whole back half of my truck apart.

    Thanks.
    "Gone racing"

  15. #15
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Stock diff fluid is 30k front, black grease in the rear. And black grease to lube the rear ring/pinion.

    Most guys go lighter on diff fluid, 10k in the rear seems right to me. If you're going to tear apart your diff, get the diff rebuild kit for $6 and just replace all the seals and plastic in there rather than try to clean them off.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  16. #16
    RC Champion SlashMaxx4x4's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info, who makes this diff rebuild kit? Traxxas?
    "Gone racing"

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    I actually used the erevo diffs including the erevo diff output shafts...

    This is the refference I used to build my diffs,

    https://traxxas.com/sites/default/fi...-ML-121120.pdf
    Live life to the fullest

  18. #18
    RC Champion SlashMaxx4x4's Avatar
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    What is the difference between the slash diff and the erevo diff?
    "Gone racing"

  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SlashMaxx4x4 View Post
    What is the difference between the slash diff and the erevo diff?
    Infact you will see that a couple of membre have changed the slash diffs to the XO1 and erevos, which are excactly the same except the erevo diff output shafts are 6mm splines, so I thought it would be stronger than that of XO1...

    The XO1 and erevo have side plates with the diff cups and I bars with the spider gears making it stronger than the original slash diffs as you can see in the diagram I have linked.

    The diff cups ae cheap 6$ with the side plates, the 5382X comes with the Ibar if I recall and is about 20$, the saturn output gear and centre gear around 20$. If you are building from scartch its expensive but if you are rebuilding just replace the one that needs replacing.
    Last edited by Jezza; 06-10-2016 at 07:47 PM.
    Live life to the fullest

  20. #20
    RC Champion SlashMaxx4x4's Avatar
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    Ok, so, if I am going to run a MMX 2200, will I have issues with the stock slash diff? Or will I need erevo of xo1?
    "Gone racing"

  21. #21
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    It cost me about 60$ CAD to build a complete e-revo diff. Expensive

    Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk

  22. #22
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SlashMaxx4x4 View Post
    Ok, so, if I am going to run a MMX 2200, will I have issues with the stock slash diff? Or will I need erevo of xo1?
    Most will go for XO1 as you do not have to buy xtra parts for the MIP X duty to work with that build. With the erevo ones, you will need to buy a different 6mm bore spline, not expensive but short so you may also have to purchase the longer male X duty off the rustler as dirk411 did.
    Live life to the fullest

  23. #23
    RC Champion SlashMaxx4x4's Avatar
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    Ok, thanks.
    "Gone racing"

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