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  1. #161
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Thanks, SandSlinger. Is your Rusty still out of commision? Still running your daughters?
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  2. #162
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    Yah haven't bought any parts yet. With school and endless rain I haven't even got to run hers on the track either.
    Traxxas E-Revo,Traxxas Rustler VXL,Traxxas T-Maxx

  3. #163
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SandSlinger View Post
    Yah haven't bought any parts yet. With school and endless rain I haven't even got to run hers on the track either.
    Well, that sucks, but I can definitely sympathize & (unfortunately) relate. I'm really starting to dislike this whole "life getting in the way of track time" thing myself.
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  4. #164
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    I've been thinking quite a bit about battery's these days, and in particular about the small, lightweight battery's that the pros run in all of their mid-motor trucks. I've wanted to be able to run these types of battery's for some time, due to their light weight, compact size & large power output. The challenge I've had to accomplish this has been multi-fold. First, there's the expense. These little battery's can easily run $100-$150 each (ouch!). Next, I needed to figure out a way to be able to easily use the "shorty" packs and maintain the ability to continue to use my standard sized LiPo's, as well as quickly change from one to the other. Lastly, I needed to be able to use my existing equipment to charge all of these various battery types and use them with the Blackbox speed control. I also wanted to be able to make all of this effort worthwhile. Meaning, If I found a way to make everything work, I wanted to achieve enough weight savings & power gain to be really significant.

    Well, I figured it all out and found a way to make it all work. I started with a ProTek 2S LiHv Graphene 3600 mAh 100C battery pack that I purchased for $59.99! I also got a selection of solid foam spacers so I could both fill in the void left by the battery's small size and be easily removable for my standard size packs. I'm also able move the pack around in the battery tray to adjust weight distribution as needed. This battery uses standard sized 4mm bullet connectors, so I was able to locate a harness with a Traxxas connector - that will readily hook up to my speed control and charger.



    The best part of this little 100C powerhouse is the weight...



    At 158 grams this thing is 108 grams lighter than my heaviest pack & 87 grams lighter than my lightest pack - so, definitely significant enough to be worthwhile. The best part of the weight savings is that with the pack spaced full forward in the battery tray, all of that weight comes right off the rear of the truck. So even though being a rear motored truck it now has a balance very close to a mid-motored truck.

    This battery is also ROAR approved - which brings me to another thing I've thought a lot about. My truck is ROAR legal to race in all areas except one - width. With the wide arm conversion and the 1/4 offset Traxxas wheels it's 1/2" too wide in the front & 1/4" too wide in the rear. Since the tracks I run on hold ROAR sanctioned events quite often throughout the year, I want the truck to be completely legal. I didn't want to change the entire suspension that I've worked on perfecting for so long, so I tried some alternate wheels that are full offset. The wheels I got are DE Racing Speedlines designed for a T5M. They fit perfectly and bring the truck to just a hair under the 13" width limit to make the truck 100% legal. I already have a good variety of tires, so I wanted to try something different on the new wheels. I put some JConcepts Smoothies slicks in Gold (clay) compound to see how those work on the clay track that I run on.






    I charged up the pack and gave it a quick test run on the street - all I can say is WOW!
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 04-16-2017 at 10:40 PM.
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  5. #165
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    Wow I am so exalted that you has the kindness to bring us all the parts I have ever dreams.. And after a pretty long research, I was started thinking that they will only exist in my dreams.


    Thank you very much Sir..!
    Good driver. Bad setup. Bad things will happen...

  6. #166
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Thanks, Mechanic77. What started as just a simple budget build has migrated to "the build of possibilities."
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  7. #167
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    I finally made it to the track this weekend, and I have much to tell. I learned quite a bit about the trucks new chassis and all of the considerable changes that have been made since my last trip to the track. I did do a few things to the truck since my last post before I went though.

    I decided to get a matching set of Pro-line front control arms to the rears I installed awhile ago. The primary reasons being to eliminate the same flex that the rear arms had, and to even the width from front to rear. The RPM wide front arms for the Rustler are apparently wider than any rear arms that are available for the truck. So, if you use the same offset wheels all around, the front will always be wider than the rear. In some cases, not by much - I'm talking about only a millimeter or two, but it still kind of bugged me, so I switched to the Pro-line arms that match their rear arms on width perfectly.


    Being quite a bit thicker than the RPM arms, they do need to be dremeled just a little on the lower outer portion to clear any full offset wheels, like the T5M wheels I have on the truck now. This is not necessary on 1/4 offset wheels like the Traxxas lite (#1972) wheels.

    I also cleaned up (shortened) the motor wiring a little - I was going to wait until after I tested the new chassis setup to make sure I was going to keep it, but I figured no guts, no glory, so I did it anyway.


    I went to the indoor clay track to perform my shakedown tests and to try out the JConepts Smoothies slicks. I made so many changes since I drove the truck last, that it was like driving a completely differently truck. The truck handled wonderfully, jumped nice and level, and had plenty of speed. The low roll center kept things planted throughout the turns from entry to exit. None of this was much a surprise or unexpected, since the truck already handled & drove well before. What was a real eye opener was weight & weight distribution with the variety of battery's I ran. I was somewhat caught off guard at just how sensitive the truck was to this now. I started with my lightest standard LiPo pack - the Trinity 4500 mAh that weighs about 240 grams. I wanted to run a standard pack first to get some type of baseline. The truck seemed the most balanced with this pack, and performed best with it among the three packs I ran that day. Next I tried the new Protek shorty pack that weighs 158 grams. This seemed way too light - the truck was very fast & had considerable punch, with the 100C rating, but didn't seem planted at all - it bordered on be a bit twitchy & hard to control. The third pack was my heaviest - the SPC 5600 mAh 70C that weighs 266 grams. This returned the truck to a more planted feel, but I could definitely feel the extra weight above the Trinity pack. I can now see why the pro's run ballast weights under the powerful shorty packs - something I'll be playing with in the near future. This little test taught me more about weight & weight distribution than I've learned in a long time.

    The JConcepts Smoothies were quite amazing as well. I gave them a light scuffing with a fine sandpaper and ran them on the street a little to help break them in. While not fully broken in when I hit the track, they still showed incredible grip the first time out, and by the third pack they had so much traction that the truck would easily pull the front wheels off the ground going down the straight at full throttle.

    I took a few trackside pictures from the pits just for fun - if you look carefully you can see a few blurry buggies here or there...


    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 04-23-2017 at 11:47 PM.
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  8. #168
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    "0" offset wheels seemed better for grip in corners. Thats what the arms were designed for. And fairly low ride height. especially with the esc up so high.
    Ran rustler and lcg slash about 8 years ago. Ended up moving on but guys hate getting beat by a Traxxas. LOL

  9. #169
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    I don't normally like extremely packed tracks. I like some loose dirt on top, but that clay track looks really fun. Good stuff FTD.
    Traxxas E-Revo,Traxxas Rustler VXL,Traxxas T-Maxx

  10. #170
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaptCarnage View Post
    "0" offset wheels seemed better for grip in corners. Thats what the arms were designed for. And fairly low ride height. especially with the esc up so high.
    Ran rustler and lcg slash about 8 years ago. Ended up moving on but guys hate getting beat by a Traxxas. LOL
    Definitely agree with you on all points Capt. Even though the truck handled well before, the suspension geometry just seems much more correct now. Once I switch all my packs to shorty's, I'll be able to eliminate the ESC shelf and mount the speed control directly on the chassis & lower the CG a bit more.

    And you're so right - funny how everybody hates being beaten by a Traxxas
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  11. #171
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SandSlinger View Post
    I don't normally like extremely packed tracks. I like some loose dirt on top, but that clay track looks really fun. Good stuff FTD.
    This track was a great layout - so much fun to drive on. I found out they just changed it up again yesterday. Both this track & the outdoor dirt track (you'd love that one) change their layouts every three months to keep things fresh & challenging. The outdoor track just changed again this past Sunday as well - going to have to try these new setups out!
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  12. #172
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    I'd like to share a few observations that I made after last weeks track session that didn't make it into my last track report. I guess that's what happens when I post very late on a Sunday night . I wanted to share what I found out about the control arm change, as well as some things I've been thinking about with regards to weight distribution.

    The control arm change from RPM arms to Pro-line arms worked exactly as I suspected it would, in that it eliminated the excessive flex and made the truck much more consistent. But even more than that, after having a chance to really think about it, I believe it solved something else that I've chased for awhile. Throughout this thread and in many posts, I talked about how the truck didn't seem to be dampened enough, or that I wanted to play with different shock pistons, or that I was trying different springs, different weight shock oil, blah, blah, blah.... Well, it turns out that the problem I was chasing this whole time, that I could never quite eliminate or be satisfied was cured, was all caused by the flex in the rear arms. What I noticed on the track since the change was that the "springy rebound" effect I had been experiencing was gone. I believe the RPM arms were contracting on landings and then re-coiling that energy on the rebound stroke of the shocks - to the point the shocks couldn't overcome it, thus upsetting the trucks ability to recover from the landing and get on its way smoothly. A relatively small, but important thing, given the number of jump sequences at the tracks that I run on. Without the change in arms, I would have never been able to find, or correct the problem, and would have been chasing setups endlessly in search of an answer. So, in the end I can say to anyone looking to run a Rustler on the track - go with Pro-line control arms all around & stay away from the RPM ones. They would probably work great for bashing, and the flex in them might even be beneficial for that application, but certainly not the track - at least not any with a significant number of jumps in their layout.

    On the whole weight distribution thing - I've done some more research on that and have gone back to see what the pros are doing and/or using. While their trucks have the availability of various weighted parts (bulkheads, hinge pin mounts, etc.), that's not really what I was looking for. I'm more interested in the newer generation of weights they've started using under the battery's. Reedy has fairly recently come out with a "LiPo Battery Weight Set" (Part# 27304) that includes 2 flat very thin weights to fit directly into the battery tray under a shorty pack. This is designed to add ballast and lower CG. The two weights in the kit are 22 grams, 0.5mm thick and 36 grams, 1.0mm thick. Since my goal is to eventually convert my racing battery stock to all shorty packs so I can eliminate the ESC shelf and mount the speed control directly on the chassis to lower CG even further on the truck, I will be getting this weight set to experiment with, and be able to adjust weight distribution with these light weight packs.

    When I was checking the truck out the other night, I noticed how low the chassis sits these days and remembered that I never measured the ride height with the new setup - I just set everything to arms level, axles level and hit the track. My previous setup with the original Rustler chassis was 29mm front, 28mm rear. With the new chassis setup its 26mm front, 25mm rear. To me, this is very cool as that is the standard ride height of the pros trucks. So not only is the CG lower than the stock chassis because its flat, as opposed to having the raised sides, but it rides a bit lower when setup properly to race. Besides I just love the low race truck look - this is my favorite picture...

    This ones not bad either, for no body & no battery.

    One recent thing I've corrected, that has really bothered me since I got the truck, is to do something about the front bumper. I've always disliked how it doesn't cover the whole front bulkhead & only uses two screws to mount. All of the other 2WD Traxxas trucks don't do this, so I never understood why they did this on the Rustler. Not only does it leave the bulkhead exposed, but for any track/off-road use, it creates a non-smooth surface for the front end to dig into the dirt. I happened to have a few bumpers left over from some I tried on my son's Slash (the stock one & a Pro-line one), since I wound up using an RPM bumper on his truck to easily mount lights for some night bashing. I decided to modify the Pro-line Slash/PRO-2SC bumper to solve that issue once and for all. This bumper is essentially flat with a single bar across the top, covers the entire bulkhead and uses all four bulkhead screw holes to mount. Here's a factory picture of how it started.



    I heated it up and bent it right in front of the front two mounting holes to the proper angle, then I cut off the large top portion to have a more appropriate stadium truck bumper look. While this bumper was well used on my sons Slash for awhile and scraped up a bit, I still think it came out well & looks pretty decent.




    At some point I may replace it with a new one, but for now at least the bulkhead is protected and it has a smooth surface that won't dig into the dirt.

    That's all for now - next up is some ballast weights & weight distribution experimentation
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 04-29-2017 at 01:50 PM.
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  13. #173
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    I love this forum you got me to sign in just to ask are the proline front a arms longer than the stock a arms and do you have to run offset tires again when you switched from rpm to the proline a arms

  14. #174
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Welcome to the forum, and thanks for checking out my thread. To answer your questions - yes, the Pro-line arms are wider than the stock front arms. And no, you don't need to change the offset of the wheels when switching from RPM arms to Pro-line arms. What wheels you use depends entirely on how wide you want your truck.

    If you run RPM arms all around with their wide arms in front, the front will always be wider than the rear if you run the same offset wheels all around. RPM's wide arms are wider than any brand of rear arms you can get. The Pro-line arms are wider than stock, but equal width front to rear, so as long as you run the same offset wheels all around the truck will be the same width. Originally I was running the Traxxas lite rear wheels (part# 1972) that are 1/4 offset in both the front & rear - with the either set of arms this put the width over 13 inches (the ROAR maximum). When I switched to the full offset wheels (DE Racing Speedlines) it brought the trucks width to just under 13 inches all around.

    I hope that answers your questions. If you have any other questions, or need more info, just ask - I'll be glad to help.
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  15. #175
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    Ive got proline arms on this bad boy right now im running a 4600 kv castle but im having a problem with the rear end it keeps bottoming out when i land off jumps. I was wondering what i could do to prevent that i have losi red springs on the back and 35 wt it seems nothing helps the arms will flop around easily without the shock attached so no binding in the arms or shafts. my set up is alot like yours i did the pro mt chassis conversion and love it alot better. I really need help with this its really fustrating.

  16. #176
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Hey there Chickenbut (love the name - cracks me up even to type it ). It does sound like your setup is very similar to mine - identical to what I ran at the track last, as a matter of fact. But, there are a few variables that could make some significant differences that I don't know. First, let me start by saying that any off road truck (or buggy) that is setup properly to handle on a modern track surface will bottom out - there's just no way around that, and normally that's not a problem. That being said, if your track has really large jumps, and a lot of them (like mine), and the truck is slapping the ground really hard - enough to damage things, then of course, that is a problem. Tires are one area that can have a big effect on jumping/landing. I've found that most closed cell inserts in a harder clay compound tire don"t really have a lot of "give", so the suspension has to take up the brunt of the shock for a hard landing. But take heart, there are some things you can try that will help minimize that.

    I presume since you are running Losi springs that you have either Ultra shocks, or Big Bores - and if so, then you are limited in shock piston selection - 2 hole pistons are the only usable ones for those type of shocks, and again, I presume that's probably what you have. Next, your motor is another difference from my truck - the 4600kv Castle is about 25-30 grams heavier than what's in my truck. Not a huge amount more, but since it's at the extreme rear of the truck, it will make a bit of difference too. Setup is all about balance - give and take. For each thing you do to accomplish one handling characteristic, you sacrifice something else. With a setup that will have great steering & traction, for instance, it will be sprung & dampened fairly light, so you sacrifice some jumping/landing ability & vise-versa. Since I also don't know what your track experience is, I apologize if some of this fairly basic to you - I just want to try and cover all of the little variables so you don't waste time (and money!) chasing one problem, then creating another - been there, done that - not fun.

    So, now on to some suggestions that may actually help with your problem that won't sacrifice too much of anything else. Since I mentioned tires already, I'll start there. While you probably wouldn't want to change your tire type or compound, being track specific, not much you can do there - but you can try some alternate tire inserts that may help the landing characteristics, without altering handling significantly. Most common inserts these days are the "closed cell" foams - great for consistent handling, but very heavy & pretty hard compared to open cell foams. I've always liked & thought the "dual-stage" foams to be a nice compromise and good balance between the two types - like these...
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pro-Line-2-S...cAAOSwo4pYkqmM

    There are even some specifically designed as "Hi-Impact" dual-stage inserts - like these...
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pro-Line-Rac...gAAOSwdzVXqfu5

    You might look into those for your next rear tire purchase. In the meantime, there are some other things you can try for little or no cost that may help as well. One being your rear shock mounting locations - both upper & lower. If you haven't already done this, and depending on what type of rear shock tower you have, try putting the rear shocks at more of a "laid down" angle. Meaning, use more of the outer mounting positions on the bottom where they attach to the arm, and the inner mounting positions on the shock tower. This will give the rear springs a more "progressive" and firmer feel, without having to change springs/dampening that could have a negative effect on handling.

    The final suggestion I can make is something that I've done to my truck that works quite well, at least for me. Since you can't really ever stop an off road vehicle from bottoming out (at least not without sacrificing everything else), you can try to minimize its effect. I simply put a small piece of automotive vacuum tubing (some guys use RC fuel tubing) on the bottom of shock shaft before the lower spring seat. You can see the black tubing fairly well in this picture -

    Just cut it to a length that will just barely engage the bottom of the shock cartridge as the chassis touches the ground. Be very careful with the length of the tubing & be exact - if it engages before the chassis touches the ground, then it will have a "rebound" effect that will kick up the rear on landing. Not long enough and it just won't really do anything at all. Get it just right, and it will minimize the harshness of landing a big jump & prevent the chassis from slapping the gound really hard.

    Well, a bit long winded, I know - but hopefully these suggestions will help you out.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 05-15-2017 at 01:35 PM.
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  17. #177
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    Well I went to the track today to try it out and my esc sw3 must of crapped the bed won't even turn on. But I was planning with going with an SMC set up. So gotta wait for that to come in. I was wondering is your toe and camber setup like your earlier posts I've only been in the hobby for a year or so but loving the time with the kids they each have one. Thanks for the help I'll try the things out you mentened in the post

  18. #178
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    Sorry to hear about the ESC - but good excuse to upgrade That's awesome that you get to share this great hobby with your family. I'm very fortunate as well, in that my family enjoys the hobby (almost) as much as I do. And yes, toe and camber setups are pretty much the same on my truck as in my earlier posts. Most of those settings rarely change since I run on mostly the same 2 tracks near me. With a low roll center - having camber links fairly long and level with the arms, you need to make sure to have enough static camber set, as there will be no camber gain with suspension compression. So, typically I run 1.5 degrees negative camber in front & 2 degrees negative camber in the rear. This might change by 1/2 a degree depending track conditions & that's all. Rear toe in is at 3 degrees and front is 0.5 degree toe out - those never change, and rear anti-squat is set to 2 degrees - also never changes. Glad to be of help...
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 05-15-2017 at 09:46 PM.
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  19. #179
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingTigerDad View Post
    Welcome to the forum, and thanks for checking out my thread. To answer your questions - yes, the Pro-line arms are wider than the stock front arms. And no, you don't need to change the offset of the wheels when switching from RPM arms to Pro-line arms. What wheels you use depends entirely on how wide you want your truck.

    If you run RPM arms all around with their wide arms in front, the front will always be wider than the rear if you run the same offset wheels all around. RPM's wide arms are wider than any brand of rear arms you can get. The Pro-line arms are wider than stock, but equal width front to rear, so as long as you run the same offset wheels all around the truck will be the same width. Originally I was running the Traxxas lite rear wheels (part# 1972) that are 1/4 offset in both the front & rear - with the either set of arms this put the width over 13 inches (the ROAR maximum). When I switched to the full offset wheels (DE Racing Speedlines) it brought the trucks width to just under 13 inches all around.

    I hope that answers your questions. If you have any other questions, or need more info, just ask - I'll be glad to help.
    Which Proline arms are you using? Do you have product numbers for the Prolines and DE Racing wheels? Thanks.

  20. #180
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Hey, MaxDee. The Pro-line arms I'm using are from the 2wd Slash ProTrac kit - the front are part #6062-01, and the rear are part #6062-02. You can see them on Pro-lines site here;
    https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...it-front-arms/
    https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...kit-rear-arms/

    And the DE Racing wheels are the Speedlines designed for the Associated T5M. As you've seen, I have the yellow ones on my truck (Part #DER-SST-AY), but they come in a variety of nice colors. You can check them all out on their website here;
    http://www.deracing.net/store/index....odel&order=ASC
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  21. #181
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    The proline arms PROC6062-02 Pro-Line ProTrac Suspension Kit Rear Arms Slash, and PROC6062-01 Pro-Line ProTrac Suspension Kit Front Arms Slash. They are a lot nicer then rpm I can tell you that and sturdy. I don't like RPM for the arms because of over time the get a bow to the middle of them and they stay that way. I know it says for the slash but just about all the arms are interchangeable for traxxas.

  22. #182
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    So I got the Associated LiPo battery weight set that I mentioned in an earlier post and made it to the track again a few weeks ago for some weight distribution testing. I taped the the weights to the bottom of the shorty ProTek battery, which brought it's total weight up to 216 grams - still 26 grams lighter than my lightest standard pack, and 50 grams lighter than my heaviest. For those who haven't seen this weight set, it looks like this...


    That set up worked out pretty well - it preserved the planted feel of the truck, while delivering the huge punch of 100C on demand and still lightened the truck up a bit. The layout of the track was new and I didn't really care for it too much - it was o.k., but I would have preferred to drive on the other layout so that I could have a better comparison to my previous visit. It gets really difficult to have to learn a new layout every time and adjust to that, as well as learn the new setups on the truck.

    In between trips to the track, I did a bit more research on suspension setup so that I could adjust the truck a bit for the lighter weight and more forward distribution. Initially, I changed the springs to Losi green 3.5lb in the front & Losi pink 2.3lb in the rear and adjusted the rear shock oil from 35WT to 32.5WT , not only for a softer feel on the high bite clay, but to also get a little more preload adjustment availability. If you'll notice from previous pictures of the shocks, they're always at the top of the adjustment with nowhere left to go. That worked out fairly well too, but while I was there running, one of the guys next to me in the pits (a "regular" at that track - nice guy) that runs both a 1/10 4WD buggy and 1/8 4WD buggy was talking to me about setups for this track & he said "softer, softer, softer - lighter, lighter, lighter" with regards to springs & shock oils. So, in between battery's, I changed to Losi silver 3.2lb. springs in the front & Losi yellow 2.0lb. springs in the rear - I left the shock oil as it was, since I only had time for one more run and didn't really feel like rebuilding shocks track side. The truck was even better still after that change for my last pack of the day.



    Coincidentally, within a few days of this track session, I happened across an article with an interview of a team driver that was talking about setup advice for racers, and in it he said "don't get carried away with excessively stiff springs & heavy shock oils". Makes perfect sense to me now - I remember back in the day we used to run 20WT oil (25WT max), and 30WT felt like a brick to us then. Once I got home & cleaned the truck, I adjusted the front shock oil to 35WT & left the rear at 32.5WT for now. I'll start with that the next time out and adjust down from there, if needed, but I think I'm pretty close to where it needs to be.

    Since all of that took place, I did get a few new goodies as well. I purchased another ProTek LiHv shorty pack - this one being a 4900 mAh 7.6V 100C (Yes!). And I continued the march towards modernization by switching to Deans Ultra plug connectors. Generally speaking, I liked the Traxxas connectors - their efficient and easy to use, but for me at least, they're a big pain to solder up and get into the plastic housing. I used to use Dean's connectors for all my old race trucks - and they are still the universal choice among the racing crowd, so now seemed like a good time to do the switch over. Also finally shortened up the really long ESC wires.



    The last update I did was change the front shock tower to the Anza that matches the rear tower on the truck. I've actually had this one for some time, but never used it due to some fitment issues on the old chassis. This tower has 3 holes for upper shock mount positions & 3 holes for inner camber link positions. I'm starting with (and probably will leave) the "stock" upper shock position, as the truck turns very well now and doesn't need to be changed. The camber link locations in this tower are much higher than any other tower out there for the Rustler (or Slash, for that matter), as they are designed to work in conjunction with Anza's caster blocks, that put the camber link up high on top of the block. Because of this, I drilled a 4th hole in the tower below the other original 3 holes, to maintain the roll center I want. I may change to the Anza blocks later, not sure, but for now I'll leave it as is.



    I never did see how the Rustler body looked with new wheels, so I set it on the chassis just to take a peek - I like it!


    After only a couple of track days with the new chassis setup, I'm very close to having it dialed in - still some more things to do & more things to come for my build, so stay tuned....
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 06-06-2017 at 05:06 PM.
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  23. #183
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    In the last few weeks I've been working on some small refinements to a few things while I was waiting for some parts to arrive. I received a few things that have been on backorder, or very hard to find, as well as some items to move things forward with the build. One thing I've wanted to do for awhile was straighten out the steering servo to bell crank linkage alignment. I found the perfect sized spacer and got that good and straight, so now it has a nice even throw lock-to-lock.


    Next I replaced my old RPM front knuckles with some Pro-Line ones that I saw recently. The RPM knuckles were still in decent shape (a little slop starting to show), but the Pro-Line knuckles I found that are used on the Pro-2 SC are a "captive" style - meaning they attach to the steering linkage rod on both the top and bottom instead of just the bottom like every other knuckle made for the Rustler/Slash, aluminum or plastic. This design seems much more secure/precise to me.



    Kind of hard to see with the wheel on, but they look like this in the factory picture...


    Next up I got one last shorty battery pack - a Trinity HV 2s LiPo 4000mAh 100C rated (yes, I'm loving the 100C punch!) that I wanted to try out, given how much I really liked my standard sized Trinity LiPo that I've had for awhile - on sale $69.99! Now that I have 3 really good quality shorty packs, I was ready to modify the chassis by eliminating the ESC shelf & moving the speed control down on the chassis itself. The only thing I was waiting for to do this was another battery box stand-off that comes in an "internal plastic parts" bag from Pro-Line that has been nearly impossible to get. Well, I finally got that, so on to the truck it went. Now I have the ESC behind the battery, mounted directly to the chassis to significantly lower the CG even more.





    I did leave a section of the original ESC shelf intact where it attached to retain some structural integrity - I only cut out a section in the middle to fit the ESC well below the original shelf height.

    And lastly, I wanted to get the truck ready to run on the outdoor dirt track, so I got another set of DE Racing Speedline wheels (this time in white) to mount up another set of Panther tires that worked so well on that track. I put the other fairly new set of Panther's that are on the Traxxas dished wheels on my wife's truck, so she would have maximum grip there as well on our next outing.



    I've been real anxious to try the new chassis on the outdoor dirt track (it's only run on the indoor clay so far), so I'll let know how it does with the next update.
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  24. #184
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    Great thread. Was that bulldog body made for the rustler or stampede?
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  25. #185
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    Thanks Rag6, I'm glad you enjoyed it. I know I certainly have enjoyed your many (many, many, many... ) useful/informative posts in my time on the forum - it's good to see you back here in full force again. Yes, that bulldog body is an old (discontinued) Pro-Line body made specifically for the Rustler. I believe the Stampede version they made has a flatter bed portion, without the indentations for the shocks/shock tower.
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  26. #186
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    Np I think you have convinced me to use the fg front tower for my cheapo slash build. Just wondering, do you think they could be doubled up for bashing duty? For the price, why not?
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  27. #187
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    I think you'll like the advantages of the fg tower - I have one on my wife's Rustler & it's great. I also had one on my son's Slash, but replaced it with the graphite one from my truck when I put the Anza tower on mine. No real advantage, just some extra bling. And for what Traxxas wants for them you really can't go wrong. I'm sure you can double it up for some extreme bashing duty - I seem to remember seeing someone on the forum doing that some time ago. As I can recall, it worked out well - easy to do & tough as nails.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 07-13-2017 at 10:43 PM.
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  28. #188
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    Thanks for taking the time to share this information. I'm working on a bandit that I'd like to take on track once it's done. I just ordered a set of springs to try based on your info. 2.0 Rr, and 2.9 Fr

  29. #189
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    Thanks for checking out the thread. I'm glad the info here is able to help. It's really good to see someone with a Bandit setting up to run on the track - there are so few anymore that run a Rustler on the track, and even fewer that use a Bandit. Really quite a shame, as their both very capable track runners with a little effort on the setup. With some basic shock tuning and the right tires, you should be good to go. Best of luck, and keep us posted on your progress.
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  30. #190
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    I have about two weeks before we go to the track again so I should have enough time to finish it. It started out as a "I have a lot of left over parts, let's build a bandit" but quickly spiraled into "OMG, I've spent way too much money on a bandit".


    Never mind the cheap tires. They're just there until I talk to some of the track guys and see what they're running.

  31. #191
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    Man, that's one good looking Bandit! I can't wait to see how it turns out & hear how it does on the track. As far as money spent, I hear ya. I just try to look at it this way - most of the money spent on these things is in the electronics - battery's, speed controls, servo, motor & radio gear. All of that is easily transferred to anything else, should your interests change and you ever want to try something else. All the rest spent on model/chassis specific items is just an investment in the enjoyment of creating something fun. Any other hobby will wind up costing just as much, if not more. I think of my kids (like most kids these days) with their video game consoles, computers and other electronic gadgets, and man, I've spent a fortune on that stuff between the two of them - way more than I ever could on this hobby. To me, this hobby, and my truck represent the epitome of good clean, safe, family fun that everyone of all ages can enjoy, and something I get to share with my boys & my wife for a long time to come. When I think of it those terms, suddenly the dollars spent seem insignificant.

    At any rate, enjoy the project and keep us updated on the progress. And, of course, if I can be of any help as you move along, just ask.
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  32. #192
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    I hope that I'm not asking a question that you've already answered, but it's been a few days since I've read thru this info.

    You stayed with the rustler style front steering instead of switching to the SRT style. Was there a reason that you didn't switch?

  33. #193
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    Another question. If you're using the shorty packs that use the 4mm Bullet plugs, could you just put those plugs directly on your ESC leads, and skip the Dean's plug altogether?

  34. #194
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmauld View Post
    I hope that I'm not asking a question that you've already answered, but it's been a few days since I've read thru this info.

    You stayed with the rustler style front steering instead of switching to the SRT style. Was there a reason that you didn't switch?
    When I first started to do upgrades and modifications to my truck i was't very familiar with the Traxxas brand vehicles - I had never owned any until I got my son's Slash & my Rustler. So I didn't know anything about parts interchangeability between the SRT and Rustler. I got the Pro-Line Pro 2 aluminum steering setup fairly early on - I knew I wanted a bearing equipped rack & the Pro-Line unit has six bearings (4 on the posts & 2 on the center link), instead of the usual four. It also has 3 choices of mounting positions for the tie rods to be able to adjust ackermann, which I thought was pretty useful as well. Since then it's worked out really well, so I never saw any reason to change it again.
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  35. #195
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmauld View Post
    Another question. If you're using the shorty packs that use the 4mm Bullet plugs, could you just put those plugs directly on your ESC leads, and skip the Dean's plug altogether?
    That is a more efficient way to go, I just prefer having a connector in there - just a personal choice because it's what I'm used to from my old racing days, I guess. If I were running with a 17.5T motor where every fraction of resistance makes a big difference, I'd probably go that way. But, with the setup I'm running now in Modified Truck - 7.5T motor, low internal resistance battery packs & and fairly low resistance from the deans connectors, I don't think it will make much of a difference, at least not at the club racing level that I run.
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  36. #196
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingTigerDad View Post
    When I first started to do upgrades and modifications to my truck i was't very familiar with the Traxxas brand vehicles - I had never owned any until I got my son's Slash & my Rustler. So I didn't know anything about parts interchangeability between the SRT and Rustler. I got the Pro-Line Pro 2 aluminum steering setup fairly early on - I knew I wanted a bearing equipped rack & the Pro-Line unit has six bearings (4 on the posts & 2 on the center link), instead of the usual four. It also has 3 choices of mounting positions for the tie rods to be able to adjust ackermann, which I thought was pretty useful as well. Since then it's worked out really well, so I never saw any reason to change it again.
    Sorry, I was referring to the outer bits. The srt has a solid mounted axle, with the bearings in the wheel vs the rustler style with the bearings in the hub and the axle spins with the wheel. I guess I can see advantages to both. Like you said, maybe this is nitpicking and doesn't really matter. It's probably more important to make sure there is no slop in the system.

    I think the rustler steering rack is probably superior to the srt steering rack.
    Last edited by jmauld; 07-25-2017 at 09:27 PM.

  37. #197
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingTigerDad View Post
    That is a more efficient way to go, I just prefer having a connector in there - just a personal choice because it's what I'm used to from my old racing days, I guess. If I were running with a 17.5T motor where every fraction of resistance makes a big difference, I'd probably go that way. But, with the setup I'm running now in Modified Truck - 7.5T motor, low internal resistance battery packs & and fairly low resistance from the deans connectors, I don't think it will make much of a difference, at least not at the club racing level that I run.
    Gotcha, I didn't know if there was a safety reason for not going that route.

  38. #198
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmauld View Post
    Sorry, I was referring to the outer bits. The srt has a solid mounted axle, with the bearings in the wheel vs the rustler style with the bearings in the hub and the axle spins with the wheel. I guess I can see advantages to both. Like you said, maybe this is nitpicking and doesn't really matter. It's probably more important to make sure there is no slop in the system.

    I think the rustler steering rack is probably superior to the srt steering rack.
    O.k, sorry, my mistake. On the axles.... All my old Losi race trucks used bearings in the wheels in front, so when I got these Traxxas trucks and saw the live axle setup, I thought it was sort of weird. After looking into it a bit, I saw that all the modern racing trucks, buggy's, and SCT's used this style axle. I thought about changing it back then until I realized that once I was able to even up the offset difference between the front & rear , I would be able to rotate tires. This to me was a huge advantage, given the cost of new rubber. The live axle isn't quite as smooth as a fixed axle, but the cost effectiveness of extending tire life outweighs the small edge in lower rotating friction. Even though I still prefer ribbed tires in front on a dirt surface for the smoother, more consistent steering, I do run the same tire type all around on the clay. My thinking is the same with regards to power as well - if I were running something like a 17.5T motor, where every advantage is needed for speed, I'd probably switch to fixed axles with bearings in the wheels. But fortunately, overkill power fixes many things.
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  39. #199
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    Do the proline cblock/carriers use a standard kingpin?
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  40. #200
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    Do the proline cblock/carriers use a standard kingpin?
    Yes, they do. Currently I have the threaded/hardened Pro-Line ones in there, but any stock sized kingpin will work fine, threaded or e-clip style.
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