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  1. #441
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Synnergy View Post
    FTD, I recently realized I have been using truck shocks on my buggies! I may have to put together a buggy set! Did you end up making it out?
    Now that you mention it, and thinking about what you've used on your builds, that's true! Off the top of my head, I believe you have used both ProLine PowerStroke and ProSpec shocks designed for a Slash or Pro2 truck, and a set of Kyosho shocks off an SC6 truck.

    When thinking about that a little deeper, though, that should only effect any of the vehicles that are using the short buggy control arms. Anything that still has the ProTrac arms, or the long RPM arms will work fine, as the longer truck shocks are what those are supposed to be used for. The vehicles with the short Bandit arms will definitely benefit from having the proper, shorter shocks though.

    I did a little checking on the Associated shocks and the difference in lengths between the truck applications & the buggy's. Trucks use a 27.5mm shock body with a 27.5mm shaft for the front shocks, and a 36mm shock body with a 35mm shaft for the rear. The current buggy's use a 23mm shock body with a 21mm shaft for the front, and a 27.5mm shock body and 27.5mm shaft in the rear. They do also offer an oprional 31mm shock body & shafts for the rear. So, a bit of a difference for the shorter arm vehicles. Right now I would say the biggest downside you'd be experiencing would be having too much droop, and any of the negative effects that may have, depending on how many internal limiters your using. But, yeah, if you're going to build some new ones, might as well build the correct length from the get go. I hear Kashima's calling your name now....

    I did make it to the new, far away track this past weekend, But I'll have to post the track report for that a little later - outta time for now.
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  2. #442
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    As I mentioned in the last post, I did manage to make it to one of the somewhat far away tracks around me this past weekend. I went to a place called Coyote Hobbies Raceway in Victorville, California - about 78 miles (one way) from where I live in a suburb north of Los Angeles. This track is a beautiful, large indoor clay track with a full service hobby store. It has all of the niceties that one could ask for - climate controlled, and automated mister system for the track, etc. Unfortunately, I got wrapped up in my own track session & didn't happen to take any pictures of the track while I was there, but here is a picture from their Facebook page. The layout was from a recent large race they had - a little different from the layout I ran on, but fairly similar.



    I had the truck setup with what I thought was a decent base setup for the clay, but ultimately had to make some running changes throughout the day. I set the truck down with some Gold (clay) compound JConcepts Smoothie slicks installed and made a few passes on the straight while nobody was on the track to set the clutch. With that done, I made my way to the drivers stand and took to the track. This track is quite large - a little larger than the outdoor dirt track I normally go to, so I could have geared up another tooth on the pinion if I wanted, but speed was decent, so I left things at 18/84, so I would know that temps would stay okay while I concentrated on suspension setup & handling.

    As I made my way around the track for the first few laps, I noticed two things right away. The first being how super smooth the truck was going over the jumps, and second, that the truck didn't have as much mid-corner steering as it should. The new shock setup was simply amazing - and I think what surprised me the most was the fact that I could actually feel the difference in the trucks jumping/landing ability with such a relatively minor change. As for the mid-corner steering, I knew I had to make some changes. Before I went to this track I knew that I would have to lighten up the suspension a bit, which I did, but it became obvious to me that it wasn't quite light enough. After the first run, I came back to the pits and immediately dug out the new pair of lighter springs I brought with me. I went from 4.10lb. front springs to 3.75lb., and from 2.40lb. rears to 2.20lb. I wanted to lighten the weight of the shock oil all around too, but I hate doing that trackside with all the dirt around, so I decided to save that for when I got home. I was running 37.5wt in front and 35wt in the rear, but since have changed to 35wt in front and 30wt in the rear to go with the new spring combo. I also moved the front shock upper mounting location back to the location I had it at when I ran outdoors - one more position out. I had moved it in one hole to try out on the clay, but that didn't work well. With these simple adjustments, the truck once again had good steering throughout the turns. The lighter spring combination didn't have any negative effects on the trucks jumping/landing abilities either - I was a little concerned about that when I made the change initially.

    I continued to run my second & third battery packs without anymore setup changes, and just enjoyed running on this nice track. Most of the time it was either just me on the track, or at most 2-3 other guys. The track had a fair number of people there for being the morning after a race night - mostly regulars that I could tell. I don't think they quite knew what to make of me or my truck though. They seemed nice enough, but had very little interaction with me in my time there. Many times running by myself that day, though, made it tough to gauge lap times compared to whatever is "normal". I suppose my only measurement for the bulk of the day would be that more of the guys that did run with wound up moving over for me as I passed them, than I had to for them. So I took that as a rough estimate that my speed/lap times seemed to be on the upper end of the scale for whatever the average is there.

    By my fourth pack of the day I had a pretty good rhythm going, but about half way through that pack I hung a pipe, and tore a rear tire on one of the metal spikes they use to hold the piping in place. Thankfully the slicks I was running were old and pretty worn out. I did have other clay tires with me that would have worked as well, but knowing I had that long (hour and a half) ride home in front of me, I decided to call it a day.

    Once home, I cleaned everything up and made the rest of the adjustment/changes (shock oil, etc.) while they were fresh in my mind. I did receive one thing that I ordered (o.k., I just couldn't resist). That being a cool battery hold down in carbon fiber with some nice blue anodized thumb nuts to hold it down. In my defense, it was on sale for only $6, and looks way better that the Rustler posts/clip setup it had (Yes, I have a problem - but it's more carbon fiber!... only 6 bucks...). Here's how that whole (awesome) thing looks...


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  3. #443
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    Yeah I would have spent the six bucks on that carbon fiber battery hold down as well. Thanks for the update on your truck. Always nice to hear how it runs.

    Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

  4. #444
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    MaXDee, I second that! The CF strap and blue accent buttons are nice finishing touches, and it just looks great. If I were to do a clay/dirt/outdoor track, I would also go with the G-10 lower and CF upper pieces...super! Is this a venue that you could see yourself entering some races with? Did you see many rear motored vehicles there or were they all mids?

    That's really cool that you noticed such a difference between the suspension dampers. Weren't the previous set pretty good as well or no? Or is it that the fox shocks are just that much better? I was reading about them and saw something on a TA site where the said the TiNi shafts were for more durability and the chromed shafts were for smoothness.

    I don't see a transponder on deck, maybe it's hidden somewhere?

    Regarding the shocks truck/buggy length...I think this is why I was having a hard time using stiff springs while maintaining a low ride height...I think the overall length was too much to achieve both stiff springs and a low ride height without using limiters...I'm looking forward to seeing how a correct setup works! Thanks for the tips, quite a big difference between the truck and buggy lengths.

    Thanks for the update, I love hearing about your adventures...also like seeing the rig.
    MTFBWY

  5. #445
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Thanks much, guys - I really appreciate it. Synnergy, I didn't see a single rear motored vehicle of any type there the entire day. All the buggy's were B6's, B6.1's , or Losi 22's, and all the trucks were either T5M, T6.1, or SC5/SC6, and that was pretty much it. Oh, I did see one B74 4 wheeler there too.

    The standard Associated shocks are really nice & pretty smooth in their own right, but the Fox Kashima coated shocks with all the other goodies are just that much better. Generally, the TiNi shafts are used more for dirt/clay applications for the very reason you mentioned - they are more durable, and not as susceptible to pitting as the chrome shafts. The chrome shafts are even smoother, but would be another maintenance item to have to replace on a regular basis if run on dirt - otherwise, once pitted, they would constantly tear seals and leak.

    I haven't put the transponder on this setup yet since I'm still dialing in the chassis & not ready to race it yet. Also, the electronics layout may change slightly before then as well, not sure - I'm kind of limited by wire lengths at the moment. I'll probably see if I can tuck it under the front plate in the nose, that's where I had it kind of hidden in the old ProLine chassis. I definitely do see this track and/or track type as something I'd like to race on. Being so far it may be difficult to get to on a regular basis, but I should be able to make it out there every now and then.

    Even if you don't go with the big expense of building some Kashima shocks, I'm sure just getting the proper lengths for the shorter arm buggy's will make a world of difference in the performance on the carpet. If you weren't able to get a low enough ride height previously, I'll bet it will be night and day how it handles when you're able to set it up with both the stiff springs and a low ride height.

    Good luck & keep us posted on the progress!
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  6. #446
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    Whatup FTD!
    I'm curious which shock mount/standoff you used? I've been messing around with some shocks...realizing how big of a difference the buggy and truck lengths are...anyhow, did you find a good standoff? I'm going to try the Lunsford, jcon and exotek, curious what the best option is.
    ttyl
    MTFBWY

  7. #447
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Hey Synnergy,

    I'm currently using the shock mounts that came with the Anza towers for both the front & rear. Over those standoff mounts I have some (now discontinued) AE composite bushings. They work okay, but I do want something a little nicer now that the shocks are the top of the line variety. I have the Lunsford and the blue anodized AE aluminum on the Amain wish list myself.

    I'd say any of the one's you're looking at will work well & add some bling, but you know me - I'm partial to the nice Lunsford titanium stuff. The only concern or difference among them that you'd need to consider would be length. Too long & they'll push the shock out too far & the springs will hit the camber links, and if too short the top shock caps will rub the towers. Measure what you have now that fits nicely, then get whatever will fit the same that you like. This is the only reason I like the AE over the Lunsford for me - they give you the lengths, so the measurements are precise - the Lunsford look a little long.
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  8. #448
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Just wanted to give a quick little update on a couple of small things I did to the truck, especially since Synnergy and I were talking about one of the items in the last post. That one being the shock mount stand-offs. I measured the Associated composite set-up that I was using prior, and came up with about 12mm. I happened to be near my LHS, so I stopped in to see what they had. While they did not have the Lunsford set, they did have the Associated blue anodized stand-offs in 12mm that the T6.1 uses for $7.00 - so, I picked those up to see how they worked. All the AE factory guys use these with the plastic caps, so I figured they should work well. They fit perfectly and felt very smooth with good free movement, and they look nice with the matching blue of some of the other blue pieces on the shocks. I do want get some nice titanium hardware for the truck soon for some added weight reduction/strength/bling, but in the meantime, here's how everything looks.




    I also cut down the rear wing center section a little - it was giving too much down force on the rear end, making the front lift a bit.

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  9. #449
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    That looks great, the blue matches perfect!

    I've cracked several bodies resting on the top of the mounts...what are you using (seen in the top picture) there to "cushion" the body and the mount...it looks like a cutout of some material. I think it is a good idea!

    Also curious about your ride height. I know you use a taller height with clay and dirt versus carpet...where are you with this setup?

    Any "forecast" as to when you'll get out and race?


    Those pictures make it look like you have fiberglass towers...weird.
    MTFBWY

  10. #450
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Synnergy View Post
    That looks great, the blue matches perfect!

    I've cracked several bodies resting on the top of the mounts...what are you using (seen in the top picture) there to "cushion" the body and the mount...it looks like a cutout of some material. I think it is a good idea!
    Are you talking about the foam ring on the body mount?

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/traxxas...RoCPgkQAvD_BwE

  11. #451
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Synnergy View Post
    That looks great, the blue matches perfect!

    I've cracked several bodies resting on the top of the mounts...what are you using (seen in the top picture) there to "cushion" the body and the mount...it looks like a cutout of some material. I think it is a good idea!

    Also curious about your ride height. I know you use a taller height with clay and dirt versus carpet...where are you with this setup?

    Any "forecast" as to when you'll get out and race?


    Those pictures make it look like you have fiberglass towers...weird.
    Zedorda is absolutely correct. The Traxxas foam adhesive body washers he has linked to Amain are exactly what I'm using. I did, however, change all three mounts for the body to a Slash type of post that has more surface area (where the foam attaches to) than the standard Rustler mounts. I believe this makes a huge difference in saving the body in the mounting area. Since I've done that, I have not had any issues with a body cracking around the mount - I just destroy them elsewhere .

    Ride height for the dirt is set to 27mm in both the front & rear. Although, if traction is a huge issue depending on track condition, I will occasionally lower the rear to 26mm for a little more weight transfer.

    Right now is the final 10 days of the busiest time of year for me at work - annual physical inventory. I'll be working both Saturday & Sunday of this weekend, so I'm planning on a (well deserved) day at the track on the following weekend. I'll be looking forward to getting the truck back out on it's "home" track. After all, I've only run there with the new chassis for two quick battery packs worth of testing in the blazing heat.

    It was already dark out when I took some of those pictures, so even though I was inside with the lights on I used the flash on my phones camera. It made it look like the lights were out and the only light was from the flash - I don't like they way they came out at all. The last picture was taken at the exact same place and time, but with no flash & looks much better. So, I'l be paying more attention for future pictures for my posts - I want them to be clear and bright so everyone can see all the details.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 10-09-2019 at 10:09 AM.
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  12. #452
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    So the weekend I was planning a trip to the track was the weekend of one of the many large fires in Southern California. One of these was very close to me, and the family and I were actually evacuated from our home that Thursday afternoon and not allowed back until Saturday. During this time we didn't know if our home and neighborhood burned or not, as reliable information was very sketchy as fast as this fire was moving. Fortunately, our home and community were spared (thanks in no small part to the tremendous efforts of the firefighters), while the hills all around us burned. We returned home and had to deal with power outages off and on for most of the week afterwards while hot spots were being extinguished and power lines checked. I don't want to bore everyone with the details of the experience, but I do have to mention that I am extremely proud of my wife, who had to evacuate our home, children and dog, while I was still trying to get home from work that day. What impressed me the most was the fact that she had the fortitude enough to rescue a package of RC goodies that were delivered earlier that day from Amain! Now there's a keeper ladies and gentlemen...

    Since then, I did manage to install the aforementioned goodies on the truck and thought I would share them with you. Nothing really big, just a few small items to keep the refinements coming. First up, I finally got some ceramic bearings for the front axles. Of course, along with these I had to get the titanium axles that Lunsford offers and Synnergy mentioned in a post awhile ago. I must say, the difference in rolling resistance from the standard bearings and ProLine axle I had in there is night and day. You can see the conical shaped, hex head of the axle just peeking out here...


    Additional titanium installed was also this pair of wing buttons from Exotek.


    I also got a set of ProLine Positrons in their long wear S3 compound to try on the dirt, mounted them on more DE Racing Speedline wheels, and bolted them on with some new blue anodized aluminum ProLine lock nuts.


    Not wanting to jinx anything, I'll just say that I'll post a track report as soon as I can get there to test things out.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 11-08-2019 at 06:48 PM.
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  13. #453
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingTigerDad View Post
    So the weekend I was planning a trip to the track was the weekend of one of the many large fires in Southern California. One of these was very close to me, and the family and I were actually evacuated from our home that Thursday afternoon and not allowed back until Saturday. During this time we didn't know if our home and neighborhood burned or not, as reliable information was very sketchy as fast as this fire was moving. Fortunately, our home and community were spared (thanks in no small part to the tremendous efforts of the firefighters), while the hills all around us burned. We returned home and had to deal with power outages off and on for most of the week afterwards while hot spots were being extinguished and power lines checked. I don't want to bore everyone with the details of the experience, but I do have to mention that I am extremely proud of my wife, who had to evacuate our home, children and dog, while I was still trying to get home from work that day. What impressed me the most was the fact that she had the fortitude enough to rescue a package of RC goodies that were delivered earlier that day from Amain! Now there's a keeper ladies and gentlemen...

    Since then, I did manage to install the aforementioned goodies on the truck and thought I would share them with you. Nothing really big, just a few small items to keep the refinements coming. First up, I finally got some ceramic bearings for the front axles. Of course, along with these I had to get the titanium axles that Lunsford offers and Synnergy mentioned in a post awhile ago. I must say, the difference in rolling resistance from the standard bearings and ProLine axle I had in there is night and day. You can see the conical shaped, hex head of the axle just peeking out here...


    Additional titanium installed was also this pair of wing buttons from Exotek.


    I also got a set of ProLine Positrons in their long wear S3 compound to try on the dirt, mounted them on more DE Racing Speedline wheels, and bolted them on with some new blue anodized aluminum ProLine lock nuts.


    Not wanting to jinx anything, I'll just say that I'll post a track report as soon as I can get there to test things out.

    Hello FTD, Not to hijack the threae but I decided to do a carpet rusty build. My LHS runs stadium truck when there is enough people to run. We run a 13.5 class. So far I have proline protrac arms on, proline pro spec shocks, proline castor blocks, proline trans, RPM front and rear shock towers, mip cvds and Traxxas aluminum steering bellceanks. I need to get carpet tires, aluminum servo horn for steering. I'd like to use a better chassis and towers. I can't seem to find these ANZA towers anywhere. I've found chuckworks, and Xtreme rc chassis. A&L Factory Works don't give pricing on their website. So what do you suggest for chassis manufacturer? BTW loved that proline aluminum chassis setup you had on your truck! Can't find that setup anywhere for a reasonable price.
    Last edited by dwblue00; 11-14-2019 at 06:28 PM.

  14. #454
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Hello dwblue00. Well, unfortunately, Anza is now no longer in business, and since they only had one distributor (Hobbytown), there really aren't any Amazon or eBay sellers out there with any significant inventory. The Xtreme Racing carbon fiber setup looks pretty good, and I probably would have gone that way myself had I not discovered Factory Works, but I have no experience with their stuff, so I can't really recommend it, or comment on how it may perform. As for Factory Works pricing, on anything they offer, you need only e-mail Jeff Malar from their website, or Facebook page & he'll get back to you with any info you may need. I can tell you what I paid for the 2 Factory Works chassis' that I have - one SRT-R rear motored all carbon fiber on my wife's truck - $145 for the complete kit, including an A&L steering rack kit with bearings and shipping included. And the Mid-motored G-10/Carbon fiber chassis you see here on my truck - $165 with a delrin reverse bellcrank A&L steering kit, bearings & shipping included. Both kits come with everything you need as well - front & rear shock towers, hardware, etc.

    I do highly recommend either of the Factory Works set ups, as they are both extremely tough & great performers. If those are too much for your budget however, you could just get the front and rear shock towers only from either Xtreme Racing or Factory Works, and still have a nice workable set-up. The Xtreme Racing towers are a little pricey at $35-$40 each, and I don't know what The Factory Works run separately from the chassis kits. But I do know you can get an SRT front tower in fiberglass for about $6 - right from Traxxas directly, and some reproduction carbon fiber variants on eBay for about $10. Choices for the rear towers are a little more limited.

    I hope that helps, and answers your questions. Good luck on the carpet - it's a blast with a good set-up! I know I sure miss it.
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  15. #455
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    Thanks for getting back to me FTD. I've got 3 Rusty's at home. One is a Traxxas and rpm upgraded unit for my daughter. One of my other ones is a hi-speed car. I've had it up to 55 mph and i know it can do more. So this last one is like my racer if you will....so I'd like to maybe try racing it. The factory works stuff looks good. The extreme fiberglass chassis can be had for about $60. The carbon fiber is double that. So factory works is about on par with pricing. Does these aftermarket chassis really change the handling that much from the stock plastic? Other than being more stiff? Thanks again!

  16. #456
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwblue00 View Post
    Does these aftermarket chassis really change the handling that much from the stock plastic? Other than being more stiff? Thanks again!
    I'm not FTD, but I think I'm qualified to answer this. I doubt you'll notice much if any difference going from the stock plastic chassis to an aftermarket chassis that keeps the rear motor configuration.

    In terms of rigidity - I find the stock chassis to be pretty rigid. it's on par with the newer/modern racing cars I used to own. I don't think there's much of anything to be gained upgrading the chassis for something "stiffer," especially when the shock towers are really the most flexible parts of the car. You'll probably get more out of stiffer towers than a stiffer chassis.

    However, I think the biggest change to handling comes from converting to a mid-motor configuration - especially if you're going to be racing on a high grip track like astro. This will make the biggest impact on the way the car gets around the track. They're faster and more consistent around the track.

  17. #457
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    I agree with pretty much everything rc10nick said. The stock Rustler chassis is plenty rigid and comparable to most of the aftermarket chassis' out there in terms of rigidity. The shock towers (front and rear) are the flexible, weak link on the stock setup.

    For an application that a rear motor set-up would be beneficial, like a loose outdoor dirt track, just replacing the shock towers would be enough to get decent performance out of a stock chassis - close to on par with any other rear motor set-up chassis, for the most part. But, for any high traction racing applications, like sticky clay, or carpet, a mid-motor set-up will out perform most rear motored vehicles.

    There's a little more to it than just all of that, though. The shock towers are a weak link, not just because they flex too much for any racing application. But also because they have no adjustable choices for upper shock mounting positions - and more importantly, no adjustments/choices for inner camber link mounting positions that allow you to adjust the roll center. These two adjustments are critical to a good handling, well balanced race vehicle.

    The one area I may differ in opinion with rc10nick would be in regards to something not mentioned about the stock chassis. While rigidity is fine, and changing shock towers will make a world of difference, there is one more thing that is a disadvantage about it that most of the aftermarket chassis' deal with a little better - weight distribution. With the stock chassis, you're very limited to the way you can distribute the weight of things that go on, or in, the chassis - like batteries, ESC, servo, receiver, etc. And in addition, you're also very limited in the placement of the height of where these things mount, thus limiting the control of the trucks CG - also critically important for things like carpet track racing. Everything needs to be as low as possible for the lowest CG you can get.

    So, getting back to your questions and what I believe would work best for your carpet track racing... A good rear motored chassis can be set up to work well on the carpet - both my truck and my wife's were rear motored when I raced on the carpet, and both did amazingly well. But, a mid-motored setup will definitely have an advantage, and be the optimum setup for that environment. A few last things I want to point out before you decide how to setup your truck. While the fiberglass Xtreme chassis goes for about $60, and the carbon fiber for around $120, neither comes with any shock towers, or steering setup. The Factory Works chassis (regardless of material) do come with these items, as well as bearing for the steering, hardware and tax/shipping included. So when comparing apples to apples, you'll spend less on a Factory Works chassis than the Xtreme, and get a bit more for your money. Lastly, while I don't have pricing for it (you'd need to contact Jeff @ Factory Works), I would imagine a mid-motored all G-10 chassis setup would be a bit less than the $165 that I spent on my combination setup.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 11-15-2019 at 10:36 AM.
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  18. #458
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingTigerDad View Post
    I agree with pretty much everything rc10nick said. The stock Rustler chassis is plenty rigid and comparable to most of the aftermarket chassis' out there in terms of rigidity. The shock towers (front and rear) are the flexible, weak link on the stock setup.

    For an application that a rear motor set-up would be beneficial, like a loose outdoor dirt track, just replacing the shock towers would be enough to get decent performance out of a stock chassis - close to on par with any other rear motor set-up chassis, for the most part. But, for any high traction racing applications, like sticky clay, or carpet, a mid-motor set-up will out perform most rear motored vehicles.

    There's a little more to it than just all of that, though. The shock towers are a weak link, not just because they flex too much for any racing application. But also because they have no adjustable choices for upper shock mounting positions - and more importantly, no adjustments/choices for inner camber link mounting positions that allow you to adjust the roll center. These two adjustments are critical to a good handling, well balanced race vehicle.

    The one area I may differ in opinion with rc10nick would be in regards to something not mentioned about the stock chassis. While rigidity is fine, and changing shock towers will make a world of difference, there is one more thing that is a disadvantage about it that most of the aftermarket chassis' deal with a little better - weight distribution. With the stock chassis, you're very limited to the way you can distribute the weight of things that go on, or in, the chassis - like batteries, ESC, servo, receiver, etc. And in addition, you're also very limited in the placement of the height of where these things mount, thus limiting the control of the trucks CG - also critically important for things like carpet track racing. Everything needs to be as low as possible for the lowest CG you can get.

    So, getting back to your questions and what I believe would work best for your carpet track racing... A good rear motored chassis can be set up to work well on the carpet - both my truck and my wife's were rear motored when I raced on the carpet, and both did amazingly well. But, a mid-motored setup will definitely have an advantage, and be the optimum setup for that environment. A few last things I want to point out before you decide how to setup your truck. While the fiberglass Xtreme chassis goes for about $60, and the carbon fiber for around $120, neither comes with any shock towers, or steering setup. The Factory Works chassis (regardless of material) do come with these items, as well as bearing for the steering, hardware and tax/shipping included. So when comparing apples to apples, you'll spend less on a Factory Works chassis than the Xtreme, and get a bit more for your money. Lastly, while I don't have pricing for it (you'd need to contact Jeff @ Factory Works), I would imagine a mid-motored all G-10 chassis setup would be a bit less than the $165 that I spent on my combination setup.

    Thanks for the replies guys. I've been emailing Jeff at Factory Works. He seems to reply quickly and you do get more for your money over xtreme. I do agree with both of you on rear motor vs mid motor. I think I'm going to go with a SRT R carbon chassis and keep it rear motor. Thanks for your help! I'm sure I'll have more questions later.

  19. #459
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    I've been doing a lot of thinking these days, and for awhile, (a dangerous thing for me!) about something regarding my racing of this truck. It's been setup from the beginning to run in the "Modified Truck" class, because that's where I used to run my old Losi trucks many years ago - I just never cared for stock racing back then. These days, however, with the limited number of stadium trucks out there that race, only large sanctioned national events run a modified truck class. By far, if there is stadium truck class at all, it's typically a 13.5T stock/super stock type of class. This seems to be the standard for the stadium truck class these days - at least here in Southern California. So, in order to continue to race, I've decided to convert the truck to this class. Since the wife's truck has been running with a 13.5T motor, I do have a little familiarity with this setup. I've done some careful ordering of a few things that will allow me to swap some items around between our trucks and have them both setup for the 13.5T class with relatively minimal expense. I also am getting/have gotten a few new things for both trucks to improve overall performance and reduce weight a bit.

    I mentioned some time ago that I believed there was a a slight advantage, or some small benefit in running a "matched" setup in electronics. Maybe it's just the OCD in me, and maybe it doesn't make a difference, but I do prefer running an ESC and motor from the same manufacturer together. I figure when they design this stuff, they obviously use their own components and design them to run together, so perhaps in some small way, there is an advantage. With that in mind I pulled the Maclan MRR 13.5T motor out of the wife's truck and paired it to the Maclan MMax Pro ESC in my truck for a nice matched combination. I set the gearing to 25/78 as a starting point, for a 8.48 final drive ratio. I also purchased a Spektrum SR2100 Micro antenna-less receiver. While this receiver certainly won't make the truck any faster, it is remarkably small & light weight, and has the advantage of loosing the whole antenna wire & tube that I'm just tired of dealing with.

    While I was at it, I did pick up a couple of new batteries - one Protek 4900mAh 120C 2s pack, and one Gens Ace 5500 mAh 100C 2s pack to try out (never used their stuff before, but heard good things). So here are these things on the truck, ready to go.




    To go along with the new equipment, I also ordered some new decals from Darkside Designs - this time with a blue accent color, to match both this body, and another new one that's right around the corner.




    That's it for now... I will have some info on the wife's truck in that thread, when some last remaining things arrive for it and get installed.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 11-25-2019 at 10:50 AM.
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  20. #460
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    BOSS LEGIT! Nice touch with the wing buttons I picked up some gold buttons from exotek but I'm still re-arranging things

    Have you thought of any way to mount the wing to the front of the rear shock tower? I love that wing BTW.

    At this point it is all about driver ability...and experience is KING...go beat them up!
    MTFBWY

  21. #461
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Thanks Synnergy. Never though about a front mount wing ... The wing is is a pretty good spot with relation to body now, so I'll probably wind up leaving it as is for the time being.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 12-10-2019 at 05:38 PM.
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