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  1. #401
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Yeah, the Traxxas SRT battery box parts that Factory Works uses only come in the dyable white. I've seen a few (2 to be exact) on some vehicles over the years that were black, and that's it. Definitely like the black better for a more modern look.

    And falling under the "Just to show you once again that great minds think alike" category.... Funny you mentioned the Protek chassis protector - a few weeks ago I picked up a couple of those (in black), put one on the wife's truck and have one left to put on this truck when it's all together. Those seem a little thicker than the JConcepts ones I was using on her truck before that just don't last on the dirt.

    As for the trans sitting flush... When I ordered the chassis, I spoke to Jeff about the fact that I would be running only the RPM trans case in this truck. He mentioned what you had said before about a "slot" being cut out so the trans could drop down into it. Neither one of us really liked that solution too much, as it creates a very weak spot on the chassis right where it narrows down. After thinking about it a minute, I asked him to not cut the slot in the chassis, and told him that I would modify the case instead. So the only thing preventing an RPM case from fitting flush is one screw that sits at the very back on the bottom, where it would normally "hang" off the back of a stock chassis. This screw only joins together the 2 halves of the case where it goes around the motor - nothing that affects the actual case, or gears themselves. When reversed in the SRT-R mid-motor setup, the support on the backside of the battery box holds that together, so it's really not needed anymore. So I removed that screw, dremeled the area completely flat, and there you go - flush sitting trans.
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  2. #402
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Is_It_Broken? View Post
    1. You weren't kidding when you said that those springs were hard to find!

    2. What class will you erase this in? I'm pretty sure truggies are in 8th scale vehicle, and I'm interested and how this will fit in to the rules.
    If you can't find the Losi springs in the weight/length you want or need for your application, I've used a couple of Traxxas springs (that are readily available) for awhile that worked well for most track setups. I only went to the Losi springs because of the ability to really "fine tune" the setup a little with all the choices they offered. The Traxxas springs I used were the stock (XL5) Rustler linear front springs - Part# 2458A, and the soft red E-Maxx rear springs - Part# 4957.

    By the official ROAR rules (as they currently stand, anyway), there technically is no class for this truck. I race, and will be racing in the "Open" or "Modified" stadium truck class. With a growing number of manufacturers starting to produce a 4WD 1/10th scale truggy - Hobao, Tekno, soon to be released XRay, Team Velocity B64 conversion, etc., there are already many tracks holding specific 1/10th truggy class races. This truck being 2WD won't fit in that class, but because of that nomenclature, many tracks are also already referring to the regular "stadium truck" class as "1/10th scale truggy". Many of those also run in that class stadium trucks & short course trucks together - just to make enough for a class to run. Officially for now, the only ROAR requirements that this truck will not meet for the existing stadium truck rules is for the body, which doesn't follow the manufacturers cut lines, and the wing, which doesn't meet those guidelines for a proper "spoiler". All of that being said - only large/national events that stick to the official ROAR rules would disqualify this truck from a stadium truck class. Pretty much all/any of the more local events and club races only go by some very basic ROAR rules as guidelines - i.e., 2S LiPo's only, 2.2 truck wheels/tires for truck classes, proper motor wind for sub-class (13.5T for super stock, 17.5T for stock, etc.), and things of that nature. None will be too picky about what kind of body you run. And if I ever wanted to run a large ROAR sanctioned event (assuming the rules haven't changed by then) it would be very easy for me to unbolt the wing and change over to a more traditional/legal stadium truck body.

    But for now, I'm going to really enjoy the confused looks and head-scratching of everyone at the track as they try to figure out what just blew by them...
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 05-22-2019 at 05:30 PM.
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  3. #403
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    FTD,
    I forgot to ask about the wing mount, it looks nice...is that a B6 mount? Plastic or Al?
    MTFBWY

  4. #404
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Synnergy View Post
    FTD,
    I forgot to ask about the wing mount, it looks nice...is that a B6 mount? Plastic or Al?
    Yup, good eye. It's the Associated factory stock mounts from the B6 buggy kit. It fit perfectly in the pre-drilled holes on the rear shock tower, and wound up being the perfect height for the wing when mounted. The wing itself is a Pro-Line Champion wing, which I chose specifically because the center section was flat - which I needed since the B6 mounts are a little further apart than the standard buggy setup.
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  5. #405
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    I received some of the parts I was waiting for, and subsequently, was able to make some significant progress with the truck. I worked out the steering geometry and got everything to fit nicely. I also worked out the rear suspension/camber link positions, so that's working properly as well. I mounted all the electronics and only have to solder things up to be able to test everything out and make the final adjustments. Once I reach that point I will post some close-up pics of the details and go into some specifics on the the build. In the meantime here's some pictures of where the truck is at as of today.







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  6. #406
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    Wow you are almost there! I like that body!! It seems like it has some life left in. What did you use for the rear bumper? I like that little nub of a bumper to protect the rear...I need something similar. It looks like there is just a little bit of room left for your transponder on the right...but not a lot of real-estate left...I like the minimalist design, that tranny takes up some room. Does it have the same length? That upper deck is RAD. It seems to be hiding something shinny!

    Have you done much MM racing in the earlier days?
    MTFBWY

  7. #407
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Synnergy View Post
    Wow you are almost there! I like that body!! It seems like it has some life left in. What did you use for the rear bumper? I like that little nub of a bumper to protect the rear...I need something similar. It looks like there is just a little bit of room left for your transponder on the right...but not a lot of real-estate left...I like the minimalist design, that tranny takes up some room. Does it have the same length? That upper deck is RAD. It seems to be hiding something shinny!

    Have you done much MM racing in the earlier days?
    Very close now indeed - I would have finished if my last tips on my soldering iron hadn't burnt out. The body does have a little left to give yet. Fortunately some of the worst damaged areas were where it mounted on the old chassis, which has either been cut off or been bypassed with how it mounts now, so those areas won't be getting stressed any more.

    The rear bumper/skid is still the same T-bone Racing unit that I've always had - I just continue to cut it down smaller and smaller for the trucks ever evolving design. This time I thinned it out a bit, since it has no motor to protect back there anymore, and I shortened it a little to fit with the relocated chassis holes for the trans, which necessitated re-bending it to fit like a proper mid-motored truck bumper.

    Real estate is definitely at a premium with the old school SRT style lower plate, but that's also part of the big advantage of weight savings. Just lucky that most of today's electronics a fairly compact.

    The trans is basically the same dimensions as stock, but I think it looks bulkier because of the larger RPM gear cover.

    Once again your extreme eye for detail never fails to impress. That's a new steering servo lurking under the top plate. I had no intention of replacing the Reedy RT1508 servo that was in the truck, since its performance & reliability have been flawless for the last two years. But unfortunately, the servo arm was too tall to fit under/inside the upper plate with the reverse bellcrank steering of the mid-motor chassis. So when I went to remove the arm and replace it with one that I custom modified to fit, I found that the screw was frozen in place and wouldn't budge. Applying more force only started to strip the hex head, so rather than force the issue and wind up damaging the servo, I decided to leave it be and use it in my son's Slash, (which it fits in perfectly with the arm that's stuck on it) and just get a new one for my truck. What I wound up getting was a ProTek 160T low profile, high torque servo, which should work perfectly.

    In all my years of RC and racing, I've never had a mid-motored vehicle - until now. About the closest I've ever come was a Tamiya Formula 1 car with the motor in front of the rear axle. So this will be a whole new experience for me, and whole new challenge for setups.
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  8. #408
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Racing Rustler 3.0D MM Truggy

    I got some new tips for the soldering iron and was able to finish things up the other night. So now the Racing Rustler version 3 Dirt edition Mid-Motor Truggy (Wow, that was a mouthful!) is now complete, running, and ready for some initial tests. After hooking up the electronics the only things I really needed to reset were the steering servo to reverse to accommodate for the reverse bell crank steering, and set the motor to run in a reverse rotation on the ESC to compensate for its new mid-motor location/direction on the chassis.

    After some fine tuning steering adjustments, I put it on the ground and let her rip for the first time. I expected to have to make some adjustments to the motor (timing reset at the very least) given its new rotation direction, but nope... the ESC took care of all of that internally in its programming. I must say that I was really surprised at how the motor sounded and ran in its new direction - it seemed even more powerful than before. For whatever reason the motor just seemed "happier" running this way. Being a newer generation Reedy modified motor (Sonic Mach 3), I wonder if it wasn't specifically designed to run in this direction, given that it was made with the T5M in mind.

    At any rate here are some more detailed pictures showing some of the finer points of the conversion. First up, with the slicks installed for some clay track running.


    Next, a birds-eye overview showing the completed general layout.


    Bottom view with a good idea of how the T-Bone Racing skid plate/rear bumper wound up looking after being cut down some more.


    The motor in its mid-motor configuration and the rear body mount attached to the upper trans case. Ignore the black duct tape temporarily over the sensor wire and receiver wire - I still need to fabricate a custom harness retainer system.


    The beautiful M-Max Pro ESC. Also showing a close up of how nicely the Rit dye took to the battery box plastic parts.


    And lastly, a shot of the front end. You'll notice that I retained the Anza front tower instead of using the SRT type tower supplied with the chassis kit. I actually wound up taking the entire front clip off the old chassis intact and complete, and just transferring it to the new setup. It worked so well that I didn't want to lose any of the advantages that it provided.


    The future will bring some further refinements such as the previously mentioned wire harness retainers and such, as well as a new dedicated truggy style body. Unless the current body doesn't hold up, I'll probably keep the other blue/gray/white Pro-Line bulldog body intact and in reserve for any big ROAR sponsored races that would require a "normal" stadium truck body.

    So there you have it... Until the next time with some performance updates from the track.
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  9. #409
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    It looks great! Almost looks like the front shocks upper-mounts are in different holes, but it may be the angle. Don't you have four small scales to measure each corner? I'm curious how balanced it is.

    Care to elaborate on the differences with that slash Anza tower versus the SRT-R tower?

    Any anti-squat adjustments to be made?

    Do you think the bulkheads offer too much kick-up? I've been messing around with that (and subsequently affecting the front caster as well.) This is little off topic, but what would the ideal be for the indoor carpet compared with true off-road?

    The build is looking BOSS, I'm looking forward to how she flies!! Or is it a she....name?
    MTFBWY

  10. #410
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Synnergy View Post
    It looks great! Almost looks like the front shocks upper-mounts are in different holes, but it may be the angle. Don't you have four small scales to measure each corner? I'm curious how balanced it is.

    Care to elaborate on the differences with that slash Anza tower versus the SRT-R tower?

    Any anti-squat adjustments to be made?

    Do you think the bulkheads offer too much kick-up? I've been messing around with that (and subsequently affecting the front caster as well.) This is little off topic, but what would the ideal be for the indoor carpet compared with true off-road?

    The build is looking BOSS, I'm looking forward to how she flies!! Or is it a she....name?
    Thanks Synnergy. Front shocks haven't been moved in awhile, so must just be an optical illusion. Although I have used the next outer holes on this tower from time to time for various applications. I would love to know how balanced it is too, but I don't have the four small scales setup - still haven't replaced my standard single scale yet, so I don't even know how much it weights.

    I like the Anza tower a little better for the more choices of upper shock mounting locations and inner camber link locations. A person could (and I have) drill alternate locations, but one location for the upper shock mounting points you can't get on the SRT tower is one more further out, like I've used on the Anza. The 2 locations the SRT tower gives you are fairly laid down, so if you wanted one more stood up, you're out of luck.

    I did have to make a modification to the RPM trans case to be able to maintain my 2 degrees of anti-squat (2 degrees is perfect for most all off road applications). As you know, the anti-squat on the RPM setup is 3 degrees built into the arm mounts. I had the rear part of this mount shimmed up to get it to 2 degrees on the other chassis. When I reversed the RPM trans for the mid-motor setup, the independent arm mounts stay the same. However the two "ears" molded into the trans case that were on the front bolt of the arm mounts will now move to the rear bolt. If left unmodified the whole trans would be lifted up when shims get installed under the arm mounts. So, to counter this, I removed a little materiel on the underside of the "ears" to allow the rear part of the arm mount to be raised without lifting the trans - and was able to keep my 2 degrees anti-squat.

    I saw you were discussing the kick-up/caster with one of the guys on the Slash side of the forums, and was going to comment on it there, but I'm glad you brought it up here as well. Be very careful when changing this, and don't change it too much. Generally, 25-30 degrees caster is perfect for 99% of all off road applications. This is why you don't see any manufacturers vary from this. The difference in this setting will effect how sensitive and/or touchy the steering is, particularly at speed. A castor angle of 30 degrees will soften it enough to be controllable and consistent at speed. If you want/like/need a little quicker reacting steering going down to 25 degrees is about as far as you'd want to go. Again, most manufacturers will offer this option, although it's not used very frequently by most racers. Any less castor than that and your truck/buggy will be twitchy, over sensitive, inconsistent and hard to control at speed. With a high traction surface like carpet or sticky clay, this tendency will only be increased and made worse. You can try 25 degrees, but I doubt you'll like it much.

    Name.... Haven't really thought too much about that. In thinking about it I would go with Eve, or in particular E.V.E. for two reasons. First the acronym Engineered Variable Evolution - if ever there were a truck with a variable evolution, this would be it! And second the name Eve from a special place in history for me. You see, my avatar and my online name were not something I just picked out of a hat. I have special and unique ties to the brave men of histories Flying Tigers. Without boring everyone with an irrelevant personal story, or history lesson, suffice it say that Eve was a name included in one of the Tiger's three squadrons - "Adam & Eve", "Flying Panda's" and "****'s Angel's".
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 06-08-2019 at 03:05 PM.
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  11. #411
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    I was going to hold off on adapting this body to the mid-motor setup until I verified that it worked and used up the other bulldog body, but I was bored, so there you go. Besides, as I'm fond of saying, no guts no glory.





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  12. #412
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    It sits nice and low! It looks PHAT! Did you do that yourself? RAD dude. Any track report?
    MTFBWY

  13. #413
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    It looks nice!

    Is there anything stock on it? Or anything made by Traxxas?

  14. #414
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Synnergy View Post
    It sits nice and low! It looks PHAT! Did you do that yourself? RAD dude. Any track report?
    Thanks Synnergy. With the current body mount system, it does sit a little lower than before. All of the things on this truck have been all me, with the single exception of the paint on this body - that was compliments of Larry at Kustom RC Graphics. No track report yet - spent some family time over the Father's Day weekend, so hopefully this weekend, or the next, the latest before I can really give it a good track shakedown.
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  15. #415
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    This looks like it would be such a fun truck to drive. This is my kind of truck.

  16. #416
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Is_It_Broken? View Post
    It looks nice!

    Is there anything stock on it? Or anything made by Traxxas?
    Thanks! There are actually still a few things stock/Traxxas left on this truck, but not many! You'd be surprised at what they are. For instance - still stock... rear sliding axles & outer axle shafts (inner yokes are the Traxxas steel accessory ones), the planetary gears inside the Hot Racing diff are also stock, as well as the trans top shaft gear. Most of the hardware is all Traxxas original, with the exception of some lower screws on the trans that I replaced with titanium aftermarket. Although not stock for my original XL-5 truck, the turnbuckles and rod ends are stock VXL Rustler parts, and the wheel hexes are also stock Rustler. Body mounts are all Traxxas, but used a little differently than stock.

    While much more on this truck isn't stock, in it's current rendition, it actually has a lot more Traxxas parts, or at least basic Traxxas designed pieces than the previous version. For instance - the chassis is essentially an SRT design with different holes drilled in it for the mid-motor setup. The rear shock tower (and the front that comes in the kit that I didn't use) are also copies of the SRT originals. The entire battery box & rear suspension bulkhead are Traxxas original parts - SRT & Nitro Rustler. The front bulkhead is a Traxxas design, but an aftermarket part (STRC) made of aluminum for more strength. The trans is still a basic Magnum 272 Traxxas design, just with a few more modern/stronger/more efficient internal parts installed.

    So, stock? No, not really. Traxxas? - in it's heart & soul, yes.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 06-17-2019 at 10:44 AM.
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  17. #417
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaXDee View Post
    This looks like it would be such a fun truck to drive. This is my kind of truck.
    Glad you like it! It's my kind of truck too... So far it's been a blast to drive on all types of tracks - I can only imagine in a lightweight mid-motor configuration that it will be even more so.
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  18. #418
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    You're still using the stock Phillips screws?! I hate the things because they are a pain to use!

  19. #419
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Is_It_Broken? View Post
    You're still using the stock Phillips screws?! I hate the things because they are a pain to use!
    No, not using any phillips screws - I'm with you, I really don't care too much for those. I'm using all Traxxas original steel hex head hardware of the VXL, with a few exceptions here or there.
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  20. #420
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    I was able to take the truck out for a little shake down test a few weeks ago at the outdoor dirt track. It's not really where I wanted to go, but it was a last minute thing of either go there for a short while, or don't go anywhere at all, so I opted to go and run a couple of packs just to see how the new chassis worked.

    As is typical there in the summer, is was very hot with no shade at all - another reason I only ran a couple of packs. As for the truck itself and its performance, it did quite well. Since it was a last minute trip to this track, I wasn't able to do a lot of the pre-track setup checks that I normally do the night before. So, on the first pack, I noticed right away that the clutch was too loose. Not horrible, but enough to where it robbed some take off power to clear a few of the larger double and triple jumps that had a short run up. Given my time constraints, I opted to stay out on the track anyway so I could continue testing the rest of the chassis setup. The other bothersome thing I didn't get to correct prior was a drag brake setting on the ESC - it was still set very high from the last carpet track run setup. This had the truck very squirrelly when completely off power at the end of the straight, even with the ABS engaged.

    With a little compensating for those two things on the first pack, I was able to drive hard enough to get an idea of how well the truck handled. It turned sharp, had an abundance of steering, and in typical mid-motored vehicle fashion, seemed to rotate at the center of the truck through the apex of the turns. As always at this track, grip was a challenge, but there were some guys there that day that were pretty diligent about watering. So for at least the first half of a run, grip was good and then would fade as moist dirt dried and turned into Sahara dust.

    When I returned to the pits after running a good 15 minutes, I checked temps and the motor was at 148, the ESC at 99 degrees, so all good there despite the 90 plus degree outside temperature. I adjusted the slipper clutch a little and fixed the too loose issue, but I didn't have my phone cord with me to reprogram the drag brake on the ESC - so still would have to deal with that on the second battery. After the truck cooled down a bit, I waited just a few minutes while the guys watered the track again, and then went on my way with the next pack. The truck was now much more responsive on the throttle with a properly adjusted clutch, so I was able test things at a little quicker pace. Jumping was completely flat & balanced. Previously, after launching off a large jump, I would have to give the brakes a tap to keep things under control & maintain a proper landing position. With this chassis, it just jumps and lands smooth and level without any corrective input - nice. Roll centers seemed to be on target and it seemed to be in the sweet spot for the oversteer/understeer balance through the turns.

    So, while far from the most optimum of circumstances for the trucks maiden voyage with the new setup, it still performed very well. I can already tell that this thing will be a beast on any track with any sort of real traction. Next up will be a few minor setup adjustments and an indoor clay track to tear up.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 07-11-2019 at 06:33 PM.
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  21. #421
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    That's GREAT that you could get out for a bit! Too bad the drag was off that could be a big PIA...especially on loose grit. Get those tires and roll-centers dialed and I know you will do good. That rc is PHAT!!~!
    MTFBWY

  22. #422
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Thanks, Synnergy. So I moved forward with some of the minor adjustments that I mentioned earlier. First I started with a little body repositioning to get things to sit a bit better. I lowered the front body mount one notch to the lowest position it can go with the way the front shocks are mounted. Now the front of the body is almost sitting on the top of the shocks themselves - only a very skinny 0.5mm clearance. Next I purchased a set JConcepts Ellipse tires all around in the Gold (clay) compound in anticipation of the various clay track conditions at some of these new tracks - some take slicks, which I have, and others recommend a treaded clay tire.

    I, of course, tightened the clutch down a bit to get to a starting point, and hooked up the ESC to the computer for some major programming. I downloaded the latest firmware from Maclan, which included software containing the winning setup used by Jared Tebo in the 2019 Reedy Race of Champions. I set the truck up with this basic ESC setup with a few minor variations for my driving style & track conditions.

    The last change I made to the setup was on the chassis itself. You can see a little of it in the first picture below. I drilled a third (inner) hole in the rear shock tower for another position to the upper shock mount - the stock tower only has 2 holes, both of which you can see empty in the picture. I did this so I could move the the lower shock position in on the arm a little as well. I wanted a more secure lower mount, so I moved it in enough to be able to fit a longer screw with a nut on the inside to keep things tight. Without that I believe the existing lower screw would eventually back out and strip out in the rear of the arm with the pounding it takes over large jumps.




    And lastly, you can see I re-applied some side decals to get things back to "level" with the body adjustments.



    That will do it for all of the changes until I can get to one of the new indoor clay tracks and see how it does...
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  23. #423
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    Looking good FTD! Tell me more about the Tebo esc settings!

    Any thoughts on the use of anti-roll bars?

    How's the weight management going?

    Rock ON!
    MTFBWY

  24. #424
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Synnergy View Post
    Looking good FTD! Tell me more about the Tebo esc settings!

    Any thoughts on the use of anti-roll bars?

    How's the weight management going?

    Rock ON!
    Hey Synnergy, how have you been? I hope you and the family are well. Thanks for the positive words. So, the Tebo ESC settings.... These are what he used back in February of this year at the Reedy Race of Champions (which he won) with his B6.1 buggy in 2wd Modified, and in 4WD buggy with his Tekno EB410 in the 13.5 class. This software and ESC setup is for the MMax Pro that he used - I believe you have the MMax Pico if I'm not mistaken, so the software isn't compatible. However, the only real difference in the two ESC's is that the MMax Pro has various internal timing settings (turbo, boost, etc.) and the Pico does not (to be legal for various "blinky" mode classes). While you wouldn't be able to download the software, you can look on Maclan's website at the setup sheet and just change the settings manually, since every other setting parameter is the same between the two ESC's. As for me, I was most interested in the throttle and brake frequency settings, and the boost/turbo timing settings. I've wanted to play with these things for awhile, but didn't really have a good reference for a starting point - until now.

    Use of anti-roll bars?... As you know, they're pretty much mandatory for carpet. For the loose dirt, not really recommended since they (by design) take away traction, and can't afford to lose any traction on loose dirt. Now high traction clay... that's a whole different animal, and a person could go either way with it. If it's super sticky, high traction type of clay, then yes I'd use a sway bar - just something relatively light (skinny) compared to one used on carpet. And probably only on the front as well, depending on how the vehicle rotated in the turns. For clay that gets a little dusty and loose, or not as "blue grooved", probably wouldn't use one - maybe just go with some slightly stiffer springs and heavier weight shock oil.

    Weight management on this truck is super easy - it doesn't weigh anywhere near what it did with the aluminum chassis. Even with a 22g brass weight taped in the battery box this truck easily is 100g lighter now at full race setup - with battery, body etc. I still haven't gotten a replacement scale, but I still think it's in the 1,850-1,875 gram range the way it sits today.

    While I'm still trying to find the time to get to some of these far away tracks, I am at least still able to tinker and make minor improvements/changes to the truck. I have some parts coming that will make a really sweet addition - nothing too radical, but something I've wanted for some time now. In the meantime, I did find something I know you'll like... Take a look at this!






    That's a Schumacher Talon wing in the carbon fiber look (still lexan, just covered all around to look like carbon fiber). I just though it was too cool, and had to try it out.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 07-25-2019 at 09:41 AM.
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  25. #425
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    I received the last few bits and pieces to put together a little something special that I've wanted for a long time. I made the truck a set of its own custom Fox Kashima coated shocks. Not just wanting to replace the shock bodies themselves, I went the extra mile and assembled four complete shocks with all the top of line goodies that are currently available. This list includes the following; Titanium Nitride coated shafts, machined flat 2 hole pistons, Silicone X-ring seals with machined Delrin spacers, and new external upper & lower caps, second generation spring seats and lower mount eyelets. This allowed for a complete replacement set of shocks, leaving the existing shocks intact for spares.

    I've wanted these shocks for several reasons - First and foremost, for the buttery smooth way they operate, that are considered to be the best in the business for anything 1/10th scale - rivaled only by the old industry standard for excellence Kyosho Velvet gold shocks. Secondarily, I wanted them simply for how they are perceived - whenever I see the rare truck or buggy equipped with these at the track, I know that it's a truly professional set up to be reckoned with if someone has taken the time, money & effort to put a set together for their rig.

    So, here's how they look on the truck - pretty awesome....


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  26. #426
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    I'm a little late to the party!

    That wing though!! It looks professional and BOSS! Love it!

    Question for you: When you added those two holes in the rear shock tower, what method did you use to measure and how did you drill the holes? Did you find a good method to make it as exact as possible? Just curious.

    I've been wondering about those Kashima shocks for a while now, thanks for filling us in about them. They look amazing and I bet they are smooth as silk. I kept seeing "kashima coated" shock bodies and never knew. Super!

    Thanks for asking about the family, we are doing well. I haven't had a chance to run at the carpet for a while now and so my four carpet rigs are just sitting looking pretty. I DID get a few street/dirt bashers ready to run for my brother in law and his son, recently. I got five vehicles in running order for them to play with. You remember the Azure? I reworked it a bit and made it into more of a street runner. We ran that rc as well as an 1/8th scale P2de, the Rusty2, the Sl2sh lcg 17.5 (that I recently put together) as well as typhon. We managed to to put all RCs "out of comission" and back to the garage except for the Sl2sh. Nothing too major, but it all takes time to repair. They DID have a blast, tho.

    Your rig is looking BOSS, the only think I would think about doing would be some lunsford rods. I like the 3mm punishers...although the super duty 3.5mm may be the way to go with your Truggy. I used those PL rods that came with the protrac kit (I think that is what you have on there,) on my recent sl2sh lcg build. I'm impressed with them so far...I just have a thing for Titanium! AND Carbon...and WINGS!

    Did you end up putting some ceramic bearings at the four corners? I know your tranny has 'em. Talk to you soon!
    MTFBWY

  27. #427
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Synnergy View Post
    I'm a little late to the party!

    That wing though!! It looks professional and BOSS! Love it!

    Question for you: When you added those two holes in the rear shock tower, what method did you use to measure and how did you drill the holes? Did you find a good method to make it as exact as possible? Just curious.

    I've been wondering about those Kashima shocks for a while now, thanks for filling us in about them. They look amazing and I bet they are smooth as silk. I kept seeing "kashima coated" shock bodies and never knew. Super!

    Thanks for asking about the family, we are doing well. I haven't had a chance to run at the carpet for a while now and so my four carpet rigs are just sitting looking pretty. I DID get a few street/dirt bashers ready to run for my brother in law and his son, recently. I got five vehicles in running order for them to play with. You remember the Azure? I reworked it a bit and made it into more of a street runner. We ran that rc as well as an 1/8th scale P2de, the Rusty2, the Sl2sh lcg 17.5 (that I recently put together) as well as typhon. We managed to to put all RCs "out of comission" and back to the garage except for the Sl2sh. Nothing too major, but it all takes time to repair. They DID have a blast, tho.

    Your rig is looking BOSS, the only think I would think about doing would be some lunsford rods. I like the 3mm punishers...although the super duty 3.5mm may be the way to go with your Truggy. I used those PL rods that came with the protrac kit (I think that is what you have on there,) on my recent sl2sh lcg build. I'm impressed with them so far...I just have a thing for Titanium! AND Carbon...and WINGS!

    Did you end up putting some ceramic bearings at the four corners? I know your tranny has 'em. Talk to you soon!
    Glad to hear the family is well. It definitely sounds like you guys were able to have a great time driving around the neighborhood , even though you weren't able to get to the track - that's awesome! I do remember the Azure, and all the other cool project vehicles you've worked on here or there - good to see that they're not only still around, but still get some good use occasionally.

    I figured the wing would get you... Schumacher also makes the Talon wing in black, white and clear, but nothing even comes close to the cool factor of the carbon look version.

    I used a very simple method for measuring the shock tower holes. I just put some tape over the area of the existing holes & the place I wanted a new hole, cut the tape where the existing holes were (for alignment purposes) marked on the tape with a marker where I wanted the new hole, then drilled very carefully (and slowly - that's the big trick to drill through carbon fiber!). Once one side was done, I removed the tape, flipped it over and used the holes I cut out on the existing tower holes to line up on the existing tower holes on the opposite side, then used the hole I drilled through the tape (as originally marked) on the other side for this side, and bingo - perfectly symmetrical new mounting holes.

    The Kashima coated shocks are extraordinarily smooth. Funny you mentioned the ceramic bearings - simply because its a perfect comparison. Kashima coated shock bodies (with the machined internal components) are to shock smoothness what ceramic bearings are to rolling smoothness. And speaking of the bearings, no, I still haven't gotten them all around yet. When I did the trans, I got a great deal on a pack of 10 ceramic bearings, so I had enough to do the trans and the rear hub/axles with them, but not enough to do the front axles as well. That's about the time I replaced the well worn original Traxxas front axles with an extra Pro-Line set I had laying around, which came with some pretty good quality standard steel bearings. In the not too distant future I plan on replacing those front axles with the cool Lunsford titanium ones you found & posted about recently. And when I do that, I'll replace those bearings with some ceramic ones - Protek sells them in pairs for about $11-$12. Eventually I'll do something about the turnbuckles, and replace them with a nice Lunsford set. What I have on mine and my wife's truck now is a mixed bag of the Traxxas VXL steel turnbuckles and the Pro-Line ProTrac ones that come in the suspension kit. Not the lightest, but they have been extremely resilient and strong over the years. Still, I would like some titanium on there for the weight saving and to match the Lunsford titanium hinge pins I've been using with good results for many years now.

    There is something else I want to share with everyone that you may find useful as well.... See the next post.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 08-03-2019 at 11:51 AM.
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  28. #428
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    So, I know for all, or any of the racers out there (myself included), one of the biggest things that helps me the most is getting a look at setup sheets. I find them invaluable to get some basic information, and a point of reference for different types of tracks. I have tried numerous times, and many different ways to post some setup sheets here, without much luck - the Traxxas forum does not like PDF's. About the only thing I've managed to get to work is to take a picture of the sheet, and post it as a picture. That seems to work O.K., but it obviously makes any small print on the sheet appear microscopic in the post. Hopefully, though, anyone interested in seeing them can just right click the picture, open it in a separate window and blow that up to a legible size.

    All that being said, I have a Slash setup sheet that I use with some current indoor/clay track setup info that may be helpful, as well as a Maclan MMax Pro ESC setup sheet with my current settings on it.


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  29. #429
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    Sorry if I missed it somehow, but how did you flip the tranny around and turn it into a mid-motor? Thatís amazing! Really nice work


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  30. #430
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    FlyingTigerDad could you please tell me the parts and part numbers you use to build those shocks? I am also working on a bandit VXL custom build from ground up. Those socks are amazing and for what I'm planning on doing and from what I've read those will be ball worth it. Thank you very much and I'm hoping that you will list the parts and part numbers for them shocks. I also have to say great build and very useful and knowledgeable information.

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  31. #431
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RC Dad View Post
    Sorry if I missed it somehow, but how did you flip the tranny around and turn it into a mid-motor? That’s amazing! Really nice work


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Thanks RC Dad. The Mid-motor setup actually started with the chassis - it's a Factory Works SRT-R Custom chassis that I worked with Jeff Malar (the owner) on to design it as a mid-motor version. This was inspired by Synnergy's mid-motor Factory Works buggy chassis. Essentially, it really only involved drilling some holes in different spots to mount the trans & move the battery box/upper plate supports forward, as well as fabricate some new mounting plates at the back of the battery box for the trans to tie on to.

    With that all said & done, I did modify the RPM trans case slightly (as outlined above) for a nice clean, flush fit. With all of the real work for making this a mid-motor setup already being done by Factory Works, once I got my hands on it, it was pretty much a bolt-on & go process for me. And I must say, its' quite impressive to drive.
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  32. #432
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingTigerDad View Post
    Thanks RC Dad. The Mid-motor setup actually started with the chassis - it's a Factory Works SRT-R Custom chassis that I worked with Jeff Malar (the owner) on to design it as a mid-motor version. This was inspired by Synnergy's mid-motor Factory Works buggy chassis. Essentially, it really only involved drilling some holes in different spots to mount the trans & move the battery box/upper plate supports forward, as well as fabricate some new mounting plates at the back of the battery box for the trans to tie on to.

    With that all said & done, I did modify the RPM trans case slightly (as outlined above) for a nice clean, flush fit. With all of the real work for making this a mid-motor setup already being done by Factory Works, once I got my hands on it, it was pretty much a bolt-on & go process for me. And I must say, its' quite impressive to drive.
    Very cool! I would imagine youíd notice a huge difference in handling characteristics immediately.

    I currently have a chassis that has this aluminum plate epoxied to the bottom, and Iíve been thinking about getting a new chassis... Thanks for the inspiration!


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  33. #433
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOFTCHX View Post
    FlyingTigerDad could you please tell me the parts and part numbers you use to build those shocks? I am also working on a bandit VXL custom build from ground up. Those socks are amazing and for what I'm planning on doing and from what I've read those will be ball worth it. Thank you very much and I'm hoping that you will list the parts and part numbers for them shocks. I also have to say great build and very useful and knowledgeable information.

    Sent from my SM-J327R4 using Tapatalk
    Sorry for the delayed response, but it took awhile to get all of the information together. Since these shocks cannot be purchased as a completed set, I wound up getting pieces from everywhere (eBay, Amazon, Amain, & my local hobby shop) over a period of time to get the best deals. In the end, it would probably be easier just to get everything from Amain and be done, since they have most everything on hand at any given time & for a decent price. Anyway the list of everything you would need to get, with part numbers, is below;

    1 - part# 91577 - Front 27.5mm Fox Kashima coated shock bodies
    1 - part# 91579 - Rear 36mm Fox Kashima coated shock bodies
    1 - part# 91619 - Front 3x27.5mm V2 TiNi shock shafts
    1 - part# 91623 - Rear 3x36mm V2 TiNi shock shafts
    1 - part# 91626 - Front & Rear Factory Team 12mm V2 Flat machined pistons 2x1.6
    1 - part# 91814 - Front & Rear shock caps and spring cups set
    1 - part# 91820 - Front & Rear Ball End set
    1 - part# 91495 - Factory Team 12mm V2 X-Ring Rebuild kit
    2 - part# 91304 - Factory Team 12mm Threaded Collars
    2 - part# 31327 - Factory Team VCS3 Shock Bottom Caps
    1 - part# 5433 - Factory Team 37.5wt Shock Oil - Front
    1 - part# 5429 - Factory Team 35wt Shock Oil - Rear
    1 - part# 91636 - 12mm Front Shock Springs 54mm length- White 4.10 lb/in
    1 - part# 91640 - 12mm Rear Shock Springs 72mm length - White 2.40 lb/in.

    Of course, on this list is my choice (for my application) of pistons, springs, and weight of shock oil. I just listed them to give a reference, but you'll want to select your own for what works best for your application. And as a note - pretty much any of the AE 12mm springs in most any length will work on these shocks.
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  34. #434
    RC Qualifier NOFTCHX's Avatar
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    Awesome. Thank you for taking the time to post all of that. WOW, your not kidding though about how many parts you need. Im going check a few different websites and see how much the cost of everything will be. As you said pistons, shock oil, and springs are all preference. Cause I have plenty of AE 12mm springs and a variety of shock oils. Both my p4ded run 12mm AE shocks. The time to gather all the parts hopefully won't take to long and hopefully the price isn't to bad. Ill keep you posted on the shocks. Your shocks are amazing. Im hoping to eventually make both my p4des with these shocks along with a TRAXXAS bandit vxl im building. The bandit is the main buggy i want these shocks on. THANK YOU AGAIN BUD. I APPRECIATE THE HELP.

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  35. #435
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    FTD, those are "bladderless" shocks, right? Do you treat/fill those different than a "bladdered" design? Did you get any practice/race days in yet? Hope all is well!
    MTFBWY

  36. #436
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Synnergy View Post
    FTD, those are "bladderless" shocks, right? Do you treat/fill those different than a "bladdered" design? Did you get any practice/race days in yet? Hope all is well!
    All is well these days - just coming into the busy time of year for me at work, so it's tough to find time to get away to play. Subsequently, I haven't been to any track since my last track report from Hot Rod Hobbies, but I'm actually planning on going to one of the new (far) indoor clay tracks this Sunday - so we'll see how that goes.

    Yes, the Associated V2 shocks are a bladder-less, bleeder cap design, and filling them is a little different than a bladder cap shock. It's pretty easy to do, and much easier to get right the first time than a bladder type shock. Just fill them up to the top with a small "dome" over the top edge, install the cap and fully tighten it. Once that's done, remove the small bleeder screw in the cap and push the shaft up slowly to let any air and/or excess fluid out, then re-install the bleeder screw. That's pretty much all there is to it. Once you've done that, you should have a shock that's completely full and free of any air. After you do it a few times it becomes second nature and it's really quick & easy.
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  37. #437
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    I look forward to hearing about those new shocks and how the rig is handling! Good Luck on the clay!
    MTFBWY

  38. #438
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    FTD, I recently realized I have been using truck shocks on my buggies! I may have to put together a buggy set! Did you end up making it out?
    MTFBWY

  39. #439
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    I don’t have much of value to input to the thread other than just some awe stricken “wow”s
    Since I got Back into R/C a few years ago I have been mostly a basher, but that rig is impressive and inspiring

  40. #440
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dakratfink View Post
    I don’t have much of value to input to the thread other than just some awe stricken “wow”s
    Since I got Back into R/C a few years ago I have been mostly a basher, but that rig is impressive and inspiring
    Thank you very much for the kind words, Dakratfink. You know, as much pride as I take in the evolution and development of this truck, I must say that by far the biggest reward for all of the work that has gone into it over the years has to be hearing the comments and seeing the expressions of other racers/hobbyists' that can appreciate it as well. To me, beyond enjoying driving it on the track, that's best part of projects like this versus just building a professional kit out of a box. So, as far as not having "much of value to input to the thread" goes, your comments are the value of the thread.
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