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  1. #441
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Synnergy View Post
    FTD, I recently realized I have been using truck shocks on my buggies! I may have to put together a buggy set! Did you end up making it out?
    Now that you mention it, and thinking about what you've used on your builds, that's true! Off the top of my head, I believe you have used both ProLine PowerStroke and ProSpec shocks designed for a Slash or Pro2 truck, and a set of Kyosho shocks off an SC6 truck.

    When thinking about that a little deeper, though, that should only effect any of the vehicles that are using the short buggy control arms. Anything that still has the ProTrac arms, or the long RPM arms will work fine, as the longer truck shocks are what those are supposed to be used for. The vehicles with the short Bandit arms will definitely benefit from having the proper, shorter shocks though.

    I did a little checking on the Associated shocks and the difference in lengths between the truck applications & the buggy's. Trucks use a 27.5mm shock body with a 27.5mm shaft for the front shocks, and a 36mm shock body with a 35mm shaft for the rear. The current buggy's use a 23mm shock body with a 21mm shaft for the front, and a 27.5mm shock body and 27.5mm shaft in the rear. They do also offer an oprional 31mm shock body & shafts for the rear. So, a bit of a difference for the shorter arm vehicles. Right now I would say the biggest downside you'd be experiencing would be having too much droop, and any of the negative effects that may have, depending on how many internal limiters your using. But, yeah, if you're going to build some new ones, might as well build the correct length from the get go. I hear Kashima's calling your name now....

    I did make it to the new, far away track this past weekend, But I'll have to post the track report for that a little later - outta time for now.
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  2. #442
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    As I mentioned in the last post, I did manage to make it to one of the somewhat far away tracks around me this past weekend. I went to a place called Coyote Hobbies Raceway in Victorville, California - about 78 miles (one way) from where I live in a suburb north of Los Angeles. This track is a beautiful, large indoor clay track with a full service hobby store. It has all of the niceties that one could ask for - climate controlled, and automated mister system for the track, etc. Unfortunately, I got wrapped up in my own track session & didn't happen to take any pictures of the track while I was there, but here is a picture from their Facebook page. The layout was from a recent large race they had - a little different from the layout I ran on, but fairly similar.



    I had the truck setup with what I thought was a decent base setup for the clay, but ultimately had to make some running changes throughout the day. I set the truck down with some Gold (clay) compound JConcepts Smoothie slicks installed and made a few passes on the straight while nobody was on the track to set the clutch. With that done, I made my way to the drivers stand and took to the track. This track is quite large - a little larger than the outdoor dirt track I normally go to, so I could have geared up another tooth on the pinion if I wanted, but speed was decent, so I left things at 18/84, so I would know that temps would stay okay while I concentrated on suspension setup & handling.

    As I made my way around the track for the first few laps, I noticed two things right away. The first being how super smooth the truck was going over the jumps, and second, that the truck didn't have as much mid-corner steering as it should. The new shock setup was simply amazing - and I think what surprised me the most was the fact that I could actually feel the difference in the trucks jumping/landing ability with such a relatively minor change. As for the mid-corner steering, I knew I had to make some changes. Before I went to this track I knew that I would have to lighten up the suspension a bit, which I did, but it became obvious to me that it wasn't quite light enough. After the first run, I came back to the pits and immediately dug out the new pair of lighter springs I brought with me. I went from 4.10lb. front springs to 3.75lb., and from 2.40lb. rears to 2.20lb. I wanted to lighten the weight of the shock oil all around too, but I hate doing that trackside with all the dirt around, so I decided to save that for when I got home. I was running 37.5wt in front and 35wt in the rear, but since have changed to 35wt in front and 30wt in the rear to go with the new spring combo. I also moved the front shock upper mounting location back to the location I had it at when I ran outdoors - one more position out. I had moved it in one hole to try out on the clay, but that didn't work well. With these simple adjustments, the truck once again had good steering throughout the turns. The lighter spring combination didn't have any negative effects on the trucks jumping/landing abilities either - I was a little concerned about that when I made the change initially.

    I continued to run my second & third battery packs without anymore setup changes, and just enjoyed running on this nice track. Most of the time it was either just me on the track, or at most 2-3 other guys. The track had a fair number of people there for being the morning after a race night - mostly regulars that I could tell. I don't think they quite knew what to make of me or my truck though. They seemed nice enough, but had very little interaction with me in my time there. Many times running by myself that day, though, made it tough to gauge lap times compared to whatever is "normal". I suppose my only measurement for the bulk of the day would be that more of the guys that did run with wound up moving over for me as I passed them, than I had to for them. So I took that as a rough estimate that my speed/lap times seemed to be on the upper end of the scale for whatever the average is there.

    By my fourth pack of the day I had a pretty good rhythm going, but about half way through that pack I hung a pipe, and tore a rear tire on one of the metal spikes they use to hold the piping in place. Thankfully the slicks I was running were old and pretty worn out. I did have other clay tires with me that would have worked as well, but knowing I had that long (hour and a half) ride home in front of me, I decided to call it a day.

    Once home, I cleaned everything up and made the rest of the adjustment/changes (shock oil, etc.) while they were fresh in my mind. I did receive one thing that I ordered (o.k., I just couldn't resist). That being a cool battery hold down in carbon fiber with some nice blue anodized thumb nuts to hold it down. In my defense, it was on sale for only $6, and looks way better that the Rustler posts/clip setup it had (Yes, I have a problem - but it's more carbon fiber!... only 6 bucks...). Here's how that whole (awesome) thing looks...


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  3. #443
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    Yeah I would have spent the six bucks on that carbon fiber battery hold down as well. Thanks for the update on your truck. Always nice to hear how it runs.

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  4. #444
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    MaXDee, I second that! The CF strap and blue accent buttons are nice finishing touches, and it just looks great. If I were to do a clay/dirt/outdoor track, I would also go with the G-10 lower and CF upper pieces...super! Is this a venue that you could see yourself entering some races with? Did you see many rear motored vehicles there or were they all mids?

    That's really cool that you noticed such a difference between the suspension dampers. Weren't the previous set pretty good as well or no? Or is it that the fox shocks are just that much better? I was reading about them and saw something on a TA site where the said the TiNi shafts were for more durability and the chromed shafts were for smoothness.

    I don't see a transponder on deck, maybe it's hidden somewhere?

    Regarding the shocks truck/buggy length...I think this is why I was having a hard time using stiff springs while maintaining a low ride height...I think the overall length was too much to achieve both stiff springs and a low ride height without using limiters...I'm looking forward to seeing how a correct setup works! Thanks for the tips, quite a big difference between the truck and buggy lengths.

    Thanks for the update, I love hearing about your adventures...also like seeing the rig.
    MTFBWY

  5. #445
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Thanks much, guys - I really appreciate it. Synnergy, I didn't see a single rear motored vehicle of any type there the entire day. All the buggy's were B6's, B6.1's , or Losi 22's, and all the trucks were either T5M, T6.1, or SC5/SC6, and that was pretty much it. Oh, I did see one B74 4 wheeler there too.

    The standard Associated shocks are really nice & pretty smooth in their own right, but the Fox Kashima coated shocks with all the other goodies are just that much better. Generally, the TiNi shafts are used more for dirt/clay applications for the very reason you mentioned - they are more durable, and not as susceptible to pitting as the chrome shafts. The chrome shafts are even smoother, but would be another maintenance item to have to replace on a regular basis if run on dirt - otherwise, once pitted, they would constantly tear seals and leak.

    I haven't put the transponder on this setup yet since I'm still dialing in the chassis & not ready to race it yet. Also, the electronics layout may change slightly before then as well, not sure - I'm kind of limited by wire lengths at the moment. I'll probably see if I can tuck it under the front plate in the nose, that's where I had it kind of hidden in the old ProLine chassis. I definitely do see this track and/or track type as something I'd like to race on. Being so far it may be difficult to get to on a regular basis, but I should be able to make it out there every now and then.

    Even if you don't go with the big expense of building some Kashima shocks, I'm sure just getting the proper lengths for the shorter arm buggy's will make a world of difference in the performance on the carpet. If you weren't able to get a low enough ride height previously, I'll bet it will be night and day how it handles when you're able to set it up with both the stiff springs and a low ride height.

    Good luck & keep us posted on the progress!
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  6. #446
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    Whatup FTD!
    I'm curious which shock mount/standoff you used? I've been messing around with some shocks...realizing how big of a difference the buggy and truck lengths are...anyhow, did you find a good standoff? I'm going to try the Lunsford, jcon and exotek, curious what the best option is.
    ttyl
    MTFBWY

  7. #447
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Hey Synnergy,

    I'm currently using the shock mounts that came with the Anza towers for both the front & rear. Over those standoff mounts I have some (now discontinued) AE composite bushings. They work okay, but I do want something a little nicer now that the shocks are the top of the line variety. I have the Lunsford and the blue anodized AE aluminum on the Amain wish list myself.

    I'd say any of the one's you're looking at will work well & add some bling, but you know me - I'm partial to the nice Lunsford titanium stuff. The only concern or difference among them that you'd need to consider would be length. Too long & they'll push the shock out too far & the springs will hit the camber links, and if too short the top shock caps will rub the towers. Measure what you have now that fits nicely, then get whatever will fit the same that you like. This is the only reason I like the AE over the Lunsford for me - they give you the lengths, so the measurements are precise - the Lunsford look a little long.
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  8. #448
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Just wanted to give a quick little update on a couple of small things I did to the truck, especially since Synnergy and I were talking about one of the items in the last post. That one being the shock mount stand-offs. I measured the Associated composite set-up that I was using prior, and came up with about 12mm. I happened to be near my LHS, so I stopped in to see what they had. While they did not have the Lunsford set, they did have the Associated blue anodized stand-offs in 12mm that the T6.1 uses for $7.00 - so, I picked those up to see how they worked. All the AE factory guys use these with the plastic caps, so I figured they should work well. They fit perfectly and felt very smooth with good free movement, and they look nice with the matching blue of some of the other blue pieces on the shocks. I do want get some nice titanium hardware for the truck soon for some added weight reduction/strength/bling, but in the meantime, here's how everything looks.




    I also cut down the rear wing center section a little - it was giving too much down force on the rear end, making the front lift a bit.

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  9. #449
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    That looks great, the blue matches perfect!

    I've cracked several bodies resting on the top of the mounts...what are you using (seen in the top picture) there to "cushion" the body and the mount...it looks like a cutout of some material. I think it is a good idea!

    Also curious about your ride height. I know you use a taller height with clay and dirt versus carpet...where are you with this setup?

    Any "forecast" as to when you'll get out and race?


    Those pictures make it look like you have fiberglass towers...weird.
    MTFBWY

  10. #450
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Synnergy View Post
    That looks great, the blue matches perfect!

    I've cracked several bodies resting on the top of the mounts...what are you using (seen in the top picture) there to "cushion" the body and the mount...it looks like a cutout of some material. I think it is a good idea!
    Are you talking about the foam ring on the body mount?

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/traxxas...RoCPgkQAvD_BwE

  11. #451
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Synnergy View Post
    That looks great, the blue matches perfect!

    I've cracked several bodies resting on the top of the mounts...what are you using (seen in the top picture) there to "cushion" the body and the mount...it looks like a cutout of some material. I think it is a good idea!

    Also curious about your ride height. I know you use a taller height with clay and dirt versus carpet...where are you with this setup?

    Any "forecast" as to when you'll get out and race?


    Those pictures make it look like you have fiberglass towers...weird.
    Zedorda is absolutely correct. The Traxxas foam adhesive body washers he has linked to Amain are exactly what I'm using. I did, however, change all three mounts for the body to a Slash type of post that has more surface area (where the foam attaches to) than the standard Rustler mounts. I believe this makes a huge difference in saving the body in the mounting area. Since I've done that, I have not had any issues with a body cracking around the mount - I just destroy them elsewhere .

    Ride height for the dirt is set to 27mm in both the front & rear. Although, if traction is a huge issue depending on track condition, I will occasionally lower the rear to 26mm for a little more weight transfer.

    Right now is the final 10 days of the busiest time of year for me at work - annual physical inventory. I'll be working both Saturday & Sunday of this weekend, so I'm planning on a (well deserved) day at the track on the following weekend. I'll be looking forward to getting the truck back out on it's "home" track. After all, I've only run there with the new chassis for two quick battery packs worth of testing in the blazing heat.

    It was already dark out when I took some of those pictures, so even though I was inside with the lights on I used the flash on my phones camera. It made it look like the lights were out and the only light was from the flash - I don't like they way they came out at all. The last picture was taken at the exact same place and time, but with no flash & looks much better. So, I'l be paying more attention for future pictures for my posts - I want them to be clear and bright so everyone can see all the details.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 10-09-2019 at 10:09 AM.
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  12. #452
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    So the weekend I was planning a trip to the track was the weekend of one of the many large fires in Southern California. One of these was very close to me, and the family and I were actually evacuated from our home that Thursday afternoon and not allowed back until Saturday. During this time we didn't know if our home and neighborhood burned or not, as reliable information was very sketchy as fast as this fire was moving. Fortunately, our home and community were spared (thanks in no small part to the tremendous efforts of the firefighters), while the hills all around us burned. We returned home and had to deal with power outages off and on for most of the week afterwards while hot spots were being extinguished and power lines checked. I don't want to bore everyone with the details of the experience, but I do have to mention that I am extremely proud of my wife, who had to evacuate our home, children and dog, while I was still trying to get home from work that day. What impressed me the most was the fact that she had the fortitude enough to rescue a package of RC goodies that were delivered earlier that day from Amain! Now there's a keeper ladies and gentlemen...

    Since then, I did manage to install the aforementioned goodies on the truck and thought I would share them with you. Nothing really big, just a few small items to keep the refinements coming. First up, I finally got some ceramic bearings for the front axles. Of course, along with these I had to get the titanium axles that Lunsford offers and Synnergy mentioned in a post awhile ago. I must say, the difference in rolling resistance from the standard bearings and ProLine axle I had in there is night and day. You can see the conical shaped, hex head of the axle just peeking out here...


    Additional titanium installed was also this pair of wing buttons from Exotek.


    I also got a set of ProLine Positrons in their long wear S3 compound to try on the dirt, mounted them on more DE Racing Speedline wheels, and bolted them on with some new blue anodized aluminum ProLine lock nuts.


    Not wanting to jinx anything, I'll just say that I'll post a track report as soon as I can get there to test things out.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 11-08-2019 at 06:48 PM.
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  13. #453
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingTigerDad View Post
    So the weekend I was planning a trip to the track was the weekend of one of the many large fires in Southern California. One of these was very close to me, and the family and I were actually evacuated from our home that Thursday afternoon and not allowed back until Saturday. During this time we didn't know if our home and neighborhood burned or not, as reliable information was very sketchy as fast as this fire was moving. Fortunately, our home and community were spared (thanks in no small part to the tremendous efforts of the firefighters), while the hills all around us burned. We returned home and had to deal with power outages off and on for most of the week afterwards while hot spots were being extinguished and power lines checked. I don't want to bore everyone with the details of the experience, but I do have to mention that I am extremely proud of my wife, who had to evacuate our home, children and dog, while I was still trying to get home from work that day. What impressed me the most was the fact that she had the fortitude enough to rescue a package of RC goodies that were delivered earlier that day from Amain! Now there's a keeper ladies and gentlemen...

    Since then, I did manage to install the aforementioned goodies on the truck and thought I would share them with you. Nothing really big, just a few small items to keep the refinements coming. First up, I finally got some ceramic bearings for the front axles. Of course, along with these I had to get the titanium axles that Lunsford offers and Synnergy mentioned in a post awhile ago. I must say, the difference in rolling resistance from the standard bearings and ProLine axle I had in there is night and day. You can see the conical shaped, hex head of the axle just peeking out here...


    Additional titanium installed was also this pair of wing buttons from Exotek.


    I also got a set of ProLine Positrons in their long wear S3 compound to try on the dirt, mounted them on more DE Racing Speedline wheels, and bolted them on with some new blue anodized aluminum ProLine lock nuts.


    Not wanting to jinx anything, I'll just say that I'll post a track report as soon as I can get there to test things out.

    Hello FTD, Not to hijack the threae but I decided to do a carpet rusty build. My LHS runs stadium truck when there is enough people to run. We run a 13.5 class. So far I have proline protrac arms on, proline pro spec shocks, proline castor blocks, proline trans, RPM front and rear shock towers, mip cvds and Traxxas aluminum steering bellceanks. I need to get carpet tires, aluminum servo horn for steering. I'd like to use a better chassis and towers. I can't seem to find these ANZA towers anywhere. I've found chuckworks, and Xtreme rc chassis. A&L Factory Works don't give pricing on their website. So what do you suggest for chassis manufacturer? BTW loved that proline aluminum chassis setup you had on your truck! Can't find that setup anywhere for a reasonable price.
    Last edited by dwblue00; 11-14-2019 at 06:28 PM.

  14. #454
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Hello dwblue00. Well, unfortunately, Anza is now no longer in business, and since they only had one distributor (Hobbytown), there really aren't any Amazon or eBay sellers out there with any significant inventory. The Xtreme Racing carbon fiber setup looks pretty good, and I probably would have gone that way myself had I not discovered Factory Works, but I have no experience with their stuff, so I can't really recommend it, or comment on how it may perform. As for Factory Works pricing, on anything they offer, you need only e-mail Jeff Malar from their website, or Facebook page & he'll get back to you with any info you may need. I can tell you what I paid for the 2 Factory Works chassis' that I have - one SRT-R rear motored all carbon fiber on my wife's truck - $145 for the complete kit, including an A&L steering rack kit with bearings and shipping included. And the Mid-motored G-10/Carbon fiber chassis you see here on my truck - $165 with a delrin reverse bellcrank A&L steering kit, bearings & shipping included. Both kits come with everything you need as well - front & rear shock towers, hardware, etc.

    I do highly recommend either of the Factory Works set ups, as they are both extremely tough & great performers. If those are too much for your budget however, you could just get the front and rear shock towers only from either Xtreme Racing or Factory Works, and still have a nice workable set-up. The Xtreme Racing towers are a little pricey at $35-$40 each, and I don't know what The Factory Works run separately from the chassis kits. But I do know you can get an SRT front tower in fiberglass for about $6 - right from Traxxas directly, and some reproduction carbon fiber variants on eBay for about $10. Choices for the rear towers are a little more limited.

    I hope that helps, and answers your questions. Good luck on the carpet - it's a blast with a good set-up! I know I sure miss it.
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  15. #455
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    Thanks for getting back to me FTD. I've got 3 Rusty's at home. One is a Traxxas and rpm upgraded unit for my daughter. One of my other ones is a hi-speed car. I've had it up to 55 mph and i know it can do more. So this last one is like my racer if you will....so I'd like to maybe try racing it. The factory works stuff looks good. The extreme fiberglass chassis can be had for about $60. The carbon fiber is double that. So factory works is about on par with pricing. Does these aftermarket chassis really change the handling that much from the stock plastic? Other than being more stiff? Thanks again!

  16. #456
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwblue00 View Post
    Does these aftermarket chassis really change the handling that much from the stock plastic? Other than being more stiff? Thanks again!
    I'm not FTD, but I think I'm qualified to answer this. I doubt you'll notice much if any difference going from the stock plastic chassis to an aftermarket chassis that keeps the rear motor configuration.

    In terms of rigidity - I find the stock chassis to be pretty rigid. it's on par with the newer/modern racing cars I used to own. I don't think there's much of anything to be gained upgrading the chassis for something "stiffer," especially when the shock towers are really the most flexible parts of the car. You'll probably get more out of stiffer towers than a stiffer chassis.

    However, I think the biggest change to handling comes from converting to a mid-motor configuration - especially if you're going to be racing on a high grip track like astro. This will make the biggest impact on the way the car gets around the track. They're faster and more consistent around the track.

  17. #457
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    I agree with pretty much everything rc10nick said. The stock Rustler chassis is plenty rigid and comparable to most of the aftermarket chassis' out there in terms of rigidity. The shock towers (front and rear) are the flexible, weak link on the stock setup.

    For an application that a rear motor set-up would be beneficial, like a loose outdoor dirt track, just replacing the shock towers would be enough to get decent performance out of a stock chassis - close to on par with any other rear motor set-up chassis, for the most part. But, for any high traction racing applications, like sticky clay, or carpet, a mid-motor set-up will out perform most rear motored vehicles.

    There's a little more to it than just all of that, though. The shock towers are a weak link, not just because they flex too much for any racing application. But also because they have no adjustable choices for upper shock mounting positions - and more importantly, no adjustments/choices for inner camber link mounting positions that allow you to adjust the roll center. These two adjustments are critical to a good handling, well balanced race vehicle.

    The one area I may differ in opinion with rc10nick would be in regards to something not mentioned about the stock chassis. While rigidity is fine, and changing shock towers will make a world of difference, there is one more thing that is a disadvantage about it that most of the aftermarket chassis' deal with a little better - weight distribution. With the stock chassis, you're very limited to the way you can distribute the weight of things that go on, or in, the chassis - like batteries, ESC, servo, receiver, etc. And in addition, you're also very limited in the placement of the height of where these things mount, thus limiting the control of the trucks CG - also critically important for things like carpet track racing. Everything needs to be as low as possible for the lowest CG you can get.

    So, getting back to your questions and what I believe would work best for your carpet track racing... A good rear motored chassis can be set up to work well on the carpet - both my truck and my wife's were rear motored when I raced on the carpet, and both did amazingly well. But, a mid-motored setup will definitely have an advantage, and be the optimum setup for that environment. A few last things I want to point out before you decide how to setup your truck. While the fiberglass Xtreme chassis goes for about $60, and the carbon fiber for around $120, neither comes with any shock towers, or steering setup. The Factory Works chassis (regardless of material) do come with these items, as well as bearing for the steering, hardware and tax/shipping included. So when comparing apples to apples, you'll spend less on a Factory Works chassis than the Xtreme, and get a bit more for your money. Lastly, while I don't have pricing for it (you'd need to contact Jeff @ Factory Works), I would imagine a mid-motored all G-10 chassis setup would be a bit less than the $165 that I spent on my combination setup.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 11-15-2019 at 10:36 AM.
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  18. #458
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingTigerDad View Post
    I agree with pretty much everything rc10nick said. The stock Rustler chassis is plenty rigid and comparable to most of the aftermarket chassis' out there in terms of rigidity. The shock towers (front and rear) are the flexible, weak link on the stock setup.

    For an application that a rear motor set-up would be beneficial, like a loose outdoor dirt track, just replacing the shock towers would be enough to get decent performance out of a stock chassis - close to on par with any other rear motor set-up chassis, for the most part. But, for any high traction racing applications, like sticky clay, or carpet, a mid-motor set-up will out perform most rear motored vehicles.

    There's a little more to it than just all of that, though. The shock towers are a weak link, not just because they flex too much for any racing application. But also because they have no adjustable choices for upper shock mounting positions - and more importantly, no adjustments/choices for inner camber link mounting positions that allow you to adjust the roll center. These two adjustments are critical to a good handling, well balanced race vehicle.

    The one area I may differ in opinion with rc10nick would be in regards to something not mentioned about the stock chassis. While rigidity is fine, and changing shock towers will make a world of difference, there is one more thing that is a disadvantage about it that most of the aftermarket chassis' deal with a little better - weight distribution. With the stock chassis, you're very limited to the way you can distribute the weight of things that go on, or in, the chassis - like batteries, ESC, servo, receiver, etc. And in addition, you're also very limited in the placement of the height of where these things mount, thus limiting the control of the trucks CG - also critically important for things like carpet track racing. Everything needs to be as low as possible for the lowest CG you can get.

    So, getting back to your questions and what I believe would work best for your carpet track racing... A good rear motored chassis can be set up to work well on the carpet - both my truck and my wife's were rear motored when I raced on the carpet, and both did amazingly well. But, a mid-motored setup will definitely have an advantage, and be the optimum setup for that environment. A few last things I want to point out before you decide how to setup your truck. While the fiberglass Xtreme chassis goes for about $60, and the carbon fiber for around $120, neither comes with any shock towers, or steering setup. The Factory Works chassis (regardless of material) do come with these items, as well as bearing for the steering, hardware and tax/shipping included. So when comparing apples to apples, you'll spend less on a Factory Works chassis than the Xtreme, and get a bit more for your money. Lastly, while I don't have pricing for it (you'd need to contact Jeff @ Factory Works), I would imagine a mid-motored all G-10 chassis setup would be a bit less than the $165 that I spent on my combination setup.

    Thanks for the replies guys. I've been emailing Jeff at Factory Works. He seems to reply quickly and you do get more for your money over xtreme. I do agree with both of you on rear motor vs mid motor. I think I'm going to go with a SRT R carbon chassis and keep it rear motor. Thanks for your help! I'm sure I'll have more questions later.

  19. #459
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    I've been doing a lot of thinking these days, and for awhile, (a dangerous thing for me!) about something regarding my racing of this truck. It's been setup from the beginning to run in the "Modified Truck" class, because that's where I used to run my old Losi trucks many years ago - I just never cared for stock racing back then. These days, however, with the limited number of stadium trucks out there that race, only large sanctioned national events run a modified truck class. By far, if there is stadium truck class at all, it's typically a 13.5T stock/super stock type of class. This seems to be the standard for the stadium truck class these days - at least here in Southern California. So, in order to continue to race, I've decided to convert the truck to this class. Since the wife's truck has been running with a 13.5T motor, I do have a little familiarity with this setup. I've done some careful ordering of a few things that will allow me to swap some items around between our trucks and have them both setup for the 13.5T class with relatively minimal expense. I also am getting/have gotten a few new things for both trucks to improve overall performance and reduce weight a bit.

    I mentioned some time ago that I believed there was a a slight advantage, or some small benefit in running a "matched" setup in electronics. Maybe it's just the OCD in me, and maybe it doesn't make a difference, but I do prefer running an ESC and motor from the same manufacturer together. I figure when they design this stuff, they obviously use their own components and design them to run together, so perhaps in some small way, there is an advantage. With that in mind I pulled the Maclan MRR 13.5T motor out of the wife's truck and paired it to the Maclan MMax Pro ESC in my truck for a nice matched combination. I set the gearing to 25/78 as a starting point, for a 8.48 final drive ratio. I also purchased a Spektrum SR2100 Micro antenna-less receiver. While this receiver certainly won't make the truck any faster, it is remarkably small & light weight, and has the advantage of loosing the whole antenna wire & tube that I'm just tired of dealing with.

    While I was at it, I did pick up a couple of new batteries - one Protek 4900mAh 120C 2s pack, and one Gens Ace 5500 mAh 100C 2s pack to try out (never used their stuff before, but heard good things). So here are these things on the truck, ready to go.




    To go along with the new equipment, I also ordered some new decals from Darkside Designs - this time with a blue accent color, to match both this body, and another new one that's right around the corner.




    That's it for now... I will have some info on the wife's truck in that thread, when some last remaining things arrive for it and get installed.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 11-25-2019 at 10:50 AM.
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  20. #460
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    BOSS LEGIT! Nice touch with the wing buttons I picked up some gold buttons from exotek but I'm still re-arranging things

    Have you thought of any way to mount the wing to the front of the rear shock tower? I love that wing BTW.

    At this point it is all about driver ability...and experience is KING...go beat them up!
    MTFBWY

  21. #461
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    Thanks Synnergy. Never though about a front mount wing ... The wing is is a pretty good spot with relation to body now, so I'll probably wind up leaving it as is for the time being.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 12-10-2019 at 05:38 PM.
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  22. #462
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    I mentioned awhile ago that I had an idea for a new body that I picked up last summer. I finally got around to doing something with it, and would like to share the details here. First, here it is...






    Since I permanently modified my old Bulldog body to the 1/10 scale Truggy, I wanted to get a backup body that would be ROAR legal for the Stadium Truck class - just in case I needed it if anyone protested the Truggy with wing setup. This proved to be a bit more difficult than it would seem on the surface. With the SRT-R Mid-Motor custom chassis installed, the position of things in the rear of the truck are significantly different (i.e., shock & shock tower position). This makes the stock body, or any body designed for the stock rustler chassis, impossible to mount. It also makes any SRT reproduction/replacement body unusable as well. Associated and Losi bodies won't work either due to the flatter style top of the rear shock tower. So, after many hours of investigation, the only answer to this problem became clear... The Nitro Rustler. This truck uses a very rearward placed shock tower, with the upper rear shocks mounted on the front of it, and the lower rear shock mounts on the rear of the arm, just like the SRT-R mid-motor chassis. The Traxxas factory body got ruled out because they "pre-trim" a large portion of the bed area out to clear the engine. But a replacement JConcepts Illuzion body for the Nitro Rustler doesn't do this, they only put a mold line where such a cutout would go. So...... there you have it, a ROAR legal full stadium truck body custom made for the Factory Works SRT-R mid-motor chassis.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 03-02-2020 at 02:12 PM.
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  23. #463
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    Well, finally! I actually made it to the outdoor track this past weekend with this truck for a fairly long day of testing. The weather was once again threatening rain, but I took a chance & went anyway, which paid off. Not only did it not rain, but the gray cloudy skies kept the temps down in the low 60's, which was perfect for running the truck hard without having to worry too much about letting it cool down a long time between runs.

    Before I get into the trucks performance, here is the layout that is the current track setup.


    Oh, and I did change back to the truggy setup on the truck itself to continue to refine its performance - after all, the new body is more of a future backup anyway. So for this weekend, and the foreseeable future, it was back to looking like this...


    As for the truck itself, it performed wonderfully with its current dirt track tune installed. The ProLine Positrons in S3 compound were the perfect combination for this surface. They did take a pack to break in, but after that, traction was right there the remainder of the day. They also showed very little signs of wear by the end of the day, so bonus and props to ProLine for this great compound that is soft & grips, but also doesn't wear out in one day of running on an abrasive surface like this.

    The last little modifications I've been doing to the trucks dirt setup paid off also. I changed the rear shock pistons & oil weight combo to 1.7mm machined flat pistons with 35wt Associated oil. This in conjunction with the 1.6mm machined flat pistons & 35wt oil in front proved to be a very balanced combination. Springs were the Factory Team 3.75lb 54mm in front & 2.20lb 72mm in the rear. Roll center was set fairly low in the front & slightly higher in the rear. With all of this, the truck was poised & evenly balanced through all of the various sections of the track. The long sweeper at the end of the straight was no problem to take at speed, and the tighter 90 - 180 degree turns on the infield were a non issue as well, as the truck seemed to turn on command and go where it was pointed.

    Jumps were fairly easy for the truck as well. With the the aforementioned spring/piston/shock oil combo, it launched nicely, remained controllable & balanced mid-flight, and landed smoothly. Once back on the ground, I was able to get back on the power immediately. That is, of course, when I did my part and drove well, hitting the marks. When I didn't, at least the truck was easy to recover and get back on track. Speaking of power... This is the first time I've driven this truck with the 13.5T motor setup in it. At first, that took some getting used to with the way I was used to driving it - feathering the throttle around the track most of the time, and having instant massive power on demand. With the 13.5T, I was able to actually use much more of the available power most of the way around the track, and had to definitely hit my marks and line up properly for the jumps with less full throttle power than I was used to. In the end, the truck was much more controllable with this motor combo and lap times were the same to a little better - the more I got used to how to drive this setup properly. I did change the gearing from a 78T/25T to a 75T/25T awhile ago, and this worked out very well. Temps were coming off after a long run of about 96 degrees on the motor and 78 degrees on the speed control with the cooler outside air temp. So with that, after the first run, I bumped the motor timing up from 38 degrees advanced to the factory original setting of 50 degrees. Temps after a long run after that change wound up at 118 degrees on the motor and 96 on the ESC, so I left things there for the rest of the day without any issues.

    As far as issues, and/or breakage with the truck went, I did have two small ones. First a motor wire came off at the end of a run, which was easily solved. And the second and only other issue was a nut/bolt that held the outer front camber link loosened up and fell out. This was also easily/permanently solved by installing a low profile locking nut on it. Previously, I didn't have any of those, so I used a regular low profile nut & some loctite - which I guess after all these years finally decided to let go. Otherwise, no damage or failures of any kind.

    Oh yeah, almost forgot - I also got to try out the two new LiPo's that I got awhile ago for the first time. The new ProTek 4900mAh 120C 2s was awesome, as expected - no surprise there. But the Gens Ace 5500mAh 100C 2s was a pleasant surprise for me, since I had no previous experience with this brand. It was powerful, reliable, and long lasting - a great value for dollar.

    So there you have it - another track testing session in the books. I must say, now that this truck has a really great dirt track tune on it, that I am extremely impressed with the performance of the Factory Works SRT-R mid-motor chassis. Currently, this is the best this truck has ever driven on the dirt since I've begun this project. Hats off to Jeff Malar and the Factory Works crew for a fine product.

    Next up will be a track session with both this truck, and my wife's with the rear motored SRT-R chassis, for a direct comparison...
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 03-09-2020 at 09:55 AM.
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  24. #464
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    Great write-up! Glad you got this truck dialed in. Looking forward to the comparison between your truck and your wife's as I am still driving a rear motor truck on a similar track surface as you.

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  25. #465
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    Thanks MaXDee. It certainly was a lot of fun. I'm looking forward to the side-by-side comparison myself as well. I've driven the wife's truck on the dirt more than mine, so I know it performs well, but the last time I was able to do a side-by-side with both trucks was way back when I was running the carpet. As I've mentioned briefly before, I was thinking the rear motored setup might have a slight advantage on the loose dirt surface, but after this weekend with my truck I'm not so sure. I think it'll be very close. Hopefully have that comparison soon.
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  26. #466
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    FTD! JCONN for the win! I like that body-shell BUNCHES...good job on the painting! It is SUPER cool that an (after-market) rustler, nitro-body fits!! Also, thanks for posting about what works! This is some specialized info. that comes from the "grinding-stone". In the next few years I'd like to pick up a mid-SRT like you have from Factory Works. It isn't in the "cards" now, however, especially since my business has been closed until June 15th! But that body! It looks almost perfect! The rear wheel-well looks a little close on the back side as if the spring will hit it. Does it rub there? Not that it is worth mentioning, but hey, we are on QUARANTINE! I love the white

    I was trying to read the sticker on the hood...it looks like: SPECTRUM. I could probably scroll through the thread and find the info...BUT, forgive me, what do you like about that TX/RX?

    BTW, I have been working on RCs. I'll have some things to show in the next few weeks. Much love to you FTD and your Family. I pray you and your fam stay safe.




    MTFBWY

  27. #467
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Synnergy!! Thank God! I haven't seen you on here for sometime, and I know the Pacific Northwest was hard hit in the early stages of this mess, so I feared the worst. It's good to hear from you, and I'm glad you are okay. My hopes & prayers go out to you and your family. Sorry to hear about the business and I pray you have the resources to ride things out. As for me, the family is all fine & under quarantine at home. Working for a Chevrolet dealerships service & parts departments, my company is considered an "essential business", so we continue to operate, although at a considerably reduced staff to be proportionate to the business coming in. Subsequently, I had the dubious task of temporarily laying off a fair portion of our good, hardworking people.

    On a much brighter note, I'm glad your working on the RC's to pass the time and occupy the mind. I'm definitely looking forward to seeing what you've been working on. I figured you'd really like this body, it's very close to the electric version that's on your truck - at least from the cab forward. At the rear, the wheel well is cut out to the body line & it just barely clears the springs, but I have the shocks all the way on the outer mounting position on top right now too - no rubbing or interference though. I still might give it a little buzz with the dremel for good measure. I used mainly white for the exterior color because it's simple, clean and easy to see on the track - also easy to do paint/body repairs if needed.

    The decal on the hood does say "Spektrum", which is an awesome radio system, by the way. The newer little receiver is terrific addition - small, light, powerful, and no annoying antenna wire/tube to deal with as it's all internal . The actual radio I've been using is their DX5R - a top of the line race unit (actually been replaced now with the updated DX6R), that has so many features and functions I still haven't tried them all It's a very high functioning radio, but also quite comfortable and user friendly.

    You and the family stay safe, healthy and together during these challenging times. All the best, FTD.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 03-27-2020 at 10:04 PM.
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  28. #468
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    Hi FTD, happen to find this thread and my gosh is it ever useful. I just wanted to thank you first of all for taking the time to document all your changes as that must have take hours upon hours but i just had a question. I have never raced before (still a teenager) but is very appealing to me and at some point in time i will probably own a rustler and would like to race it, i just wanted to know if you were to go back and do it all again what would your perfect off road low traction set up be? on a budget of course.

  29. #469
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    Thanks Maxx.D, and sorry for the late response. I don't get on the forum quite as often these days, since I haven't been able to get to a track, I haven't had much to report. At any rate, on to your questions. My perfect off road low traction setup? That would have to be where my truck is now, after all these years and all the trial & error, I feel it is the perfect setup - for me. As for getting into racing & working within a budget, my setup would wind up costing the same, or more, than a full race bred kit. Which would probably be easier/quicker to get to a competitive level once you got some practice in, and got used to the racing environment.

    Realistically though, just to start out and see if you like the whole racing thing, and to be able to test the waters while on a limited budget, I would modify what you have a little first and try your luck in a Rookie class. I understand that you have a Stampede 4x4 now that you were considering modifying to a Truggy setup. You should pursue that for a minimal expense way to test out racing and see if it's for you before making any big investment only to find you may not like it.

    You might want to check out some local tracks on race day, if you haven't already, and get a little feel for what it's like. Hang out in the pits, talk to some of the local racers, and watch a few heats. Also talk to the track owner/race organizer to see what some of the rules are for an entry level class, as well as get recommendations for tire types/compounds.

    Good luck, and keep us posted on which way you decide to go. And remember that everyone here is a tremendous resource for information, should you have more questions, or need some help.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 06-15-2020 at 10:55 AM.
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  30. #470
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    awesome thank you! I also have the new Losi DP Pro which drives like a dream and has all the scte 3.0 steering components but would that be hard to start off racing in 1/8? I know I want to race i'm just a bit intimidated. Truggy's are my favourite type of RC but my local track doesn't have a 1/10 truggy class and also the stampede is HCG which doesn't help either. I think I would be best off to start in 1/10 stadium track with a rustler, what do you think?

  31. #471
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    I understand... racing can be very intimidating when you're just starting out. Best advice I can give on that is just to try and relax & have fun. In the beginning you don't have to worry about trying to win, it will be all about gaining some experience and having a good time. Most of the best times I've ever had at the track have been just hanging out in the pits with my racing buddies.

    As far as the vehicle goes... You're right that 1/8 buggy is a far too advanced class to race in to start, but you're looking at your Losi DB Pro all wrong. Having that vehicle, the least expensive and easiest way to get something appropriate to race would be to modify that into a 4wd Short Course Truck , and race in that class. With only having to get a proper SCT body & mounts, and some track capable tires, you'd be good to go.

    If you still had your heart set on a Rustler, then be prepared to drop at least $300-$400 to get the truck and a really good chassis to be competitive down the road. That, of course, would be just the start. There will be many other things that would need upgrading as your skills increase. This is why many would recommend just getting a race bred kit from the start for about $300-$340 that will have most everything you'd need, less electronics. Of course there are a few alternatives that could bring the cost down on getting a Rustler - like buying a used truck or roller off eBay, and such. But it will still require a lot more effort to get the truck to a competitive club level racer.
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  32. #472
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingTigerDad View Post
    I understand... racing can be very intimidating when you're just starting out. Best advice I can give on that is just to try and relax & have fun. In the beginning you don't have to worry about trying to win, it will be all about gaining some experience and having a good time. Most of the best times I've ever had at the track have been just hanging out in the pits with my racing buddies.

    As far as the vehicle goes... You're right that 1/8 buggy is a far too advanced class to race in to start, but you're looking at your Losi DB Pro all wrong. Having that vehicle, the least expensive and easiest way to get something appropriate to race would be to modify that into a 4wd Short Course Truck , and race in that class. With only having to get a proper SCT body & mounts, and some track capable tires, you'd be good to go.

    If you still had your heart set on a Rustler, then be prepared to drop at least $300-$400 to get the truck and a really good chassis to be competitive down the road. That, of course, would be just the start. There will be many other things that would need upgrading as your skills increase. This is why many would recommend just getting a race bred kit from the start for about $300-$340 that will have most everything you'd need, less electronics. Of course there are a few alternatives that could bring the cost down on getting a Rustler - like buying a used truck or roller off eBay, and such. But it will still require a lot more effort to get the truck to a competitive club level racer.
    Sound advice here ^^. Starting out, change the Losi DB into a Short Course Truck and race that. That will at least get you used to racing and get the Jitters out. You might find that you don't like racing and you'll be saving yourself some money.

    If you want to race stadium truck I would look into a TLR or Associated stadium truck. They are mid motor and will be ready to race out of the box. Find out what the fast guys are driving at the track and get that. They will be able to help you with setup tips and tricks as well. This will help lower the curve as far as figuring out set up for your truck and make driving it more pleasurable.

    I love the Rustler , and what Flying Tiger dad has done with his is nothing short of extraordinary, but he's had years of driving and racing experience with his truck. This is not a wise path for a beginner and will just lead to frustration.

    Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

  33. #473
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    Short time lurker, first time poster. I raced stadium trucks back in the day as a teenager. I had a Team Losi LXT with the XX transmission already in the box when I started. Flying Tiger Dad will know what I'm talking about (and how old I am). As a teen I was actually a pretty good local racer but then fell out of the hobby as life took over. Now I'm older and have kids and thought we all need new hobbies to get us away from our devices. After researching and deliberating I decided on a used Rustler VXL because it's relatively cheap, parts are available, and it's actually a pretty good stadium truck. I knew coming back in racing a Rustler was a long shot and expensive but darn it I love going fast so of course I've spent more than I thought I would. At the very least I have a very fast basher. I just wanted to say thanks to FlyingTigerDad and everyone else on this forum for inadvertently giving me the knowledge to make the best decision for getting back into this hobby. I'm probably going to just bash but if I ever get into racing I'll update. Thanks again

  34. #474
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    You're welcome. Enjoy the truck with your family, and being back in the hobby again!
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  35. #475
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    Man, this truck is so sick buddy. 1/10 truggy looks great and so does the nitro fit shell. We've gotta source you a crowd pleazer 2 from Proline �� as a back up of course!

    Racing a Rustler is always such an experience and experiment - thanks spell check...it's definitely anything but 'where's the hot setup sheet?!?'

    Thanks for keeping this thread ttt!

  36. #476
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Oaks! Thanks man. Always great to hear from you - I hope all is well with you and your family. So yeah, setup has been quite an adventure, but definitely worth it. This truck runs & handles so awesome these days. The fun part is just beginning - getting to enjoy all the work & effort and have a blast on the track without having to worry about what to change or improve next. Of course, it can always be just a little better, and there's always something new coming out to try, so progress never really ends .
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  37. #477
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    Hi again, I know its been awhile on this forum but you use to run out doors right FTD? when you did what tires did you run for a loose, dusty and uneven surface? did you run ribs in the front or same tread all round? Thanks.

  38. #478
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maxx. D View Post
    Hi again, I know its been awhile on this forum but you use to run out doors right FTD? when you did what tires did you run for a loose, dusty and uneven surface? did you run ribs in the front or same tread all round? Thanks.
    Hi Maxx D. You're correct, my primary local track is a hard packed, dusty, abrasive surface. I've actually run both types of tires on this track. Currently I have Pro-Line Positrons in S3 compound all around on my truck, and Pro-Line Edge's in M3 compound in front with Pro-Line Calibers in M3 on the rear of my wife's truck. Both work well, but I do prefer the Positrons all around in the S3 a bit better. They grip really well & and wear much better than the other compounds I've tried.
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  39. #479
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    Thanks for the response, have you tried ribs? in another forum people were saying for out doors ribs work really well. After looking at the positrons I don't see that tread pattern used often at my track, ill probably opt for some Duratrax pin style tires as they are way cheaper. Didn't you use to run panthers? do you still recommend those and what model.
    Last edited by Maxx. D; 10-01-2020 at 06:22 PM.

  40. #480
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    Ive been looking around and cant find the vts slipper anywhere its all discontinued, what are my other options?

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