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  1. #41
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    I'm going to try a little experiment. I've been working on a usable setup sheet for the Rustler (just a modified Slash 2wd sheet) but I've had a hard time converting it to a format that I can post here. The Slash sheet from Traxxas is in a PDF format that won't download to Picturetrail. I tried printing and scanning it, then sending it to my e-mail to download as a picture, but the scanner only sends it as a PDF file, so that didn't work. Finally, I just took a picture of the printed copy and used that. It came out O.K., but I don't know if it will be large enough to even read once posted here, so here it go's.....

    [IMG][/IMG]

    Eh, not as good as I hoped, but maybe everyone can see it well enough. Either way, I'll post my current (Indoor clay track) setup with a follow up post shortly.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 12-17-2016 at 08:22 PM.

  2. #42
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    I created an account here just so I could tell you that you have inspired me sir into building a rustler for racing! My closest track is about an hour away and it is a indoor clay track. So I would love some suggestions for tires. I am starting with a almost bare chassis and building it from the ground up.

  3. #43
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Forum, and welcome to the fun of running a Rustler on the track! I'm certainly honored that my build has inspired people such as yourself. As for your question, tires are very track specific - it's usually best to check with the "regulars" or track owners to see what's the preferred tire for any individual track. That being said, being an indoor clay track there are only a handful of tires for stadium trucks that work well. If the track gets dry at all, or develops a layer of dust then Proline Electrons in MC compound are the best. If it stays hard packed (blue groove) and moist, then Proline Primes in MC compound will be the better choice. I have both for where I run and generally, if you can have only one set to start, I'd stick with the Electrons. Given your track is so far away, it might be a good idea to place a call to them and ask what the preferred tire is anyway.

    I hope my input helps somewhat & if you have any other questions please feel free to ask, I'm always around here and would be glad to help.

  4. #44
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    Called the track and they said the fastest tires there are three Aka chain links and the proline electrons. Probably will pick up a set of whatever I can get the best deal on first. I am going to start with my front end. I picked up the rpm wide arms, toe an camber links, and I couldn't find the graphite shock tower so I picked up the fiberglass one. When are you going back out to the track?

  5. #45
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Figured Electrons would be probably be among the recommended tires - they seem to be the "go to" tire for most clay tracks. Not surprised you couldn't find the graphite shock tower - I looked for one recently to put on my son's 2wd Slash and couldn't find another one either, had to get the fiberglass one as well. It seems to be every bit as good, just not quite as pretty.

    I probably won't be going back to the track until after the holidays now. The good part of that being, I may get some new things for the truck from Santa, so I might have new stuff to try out by the time I can get back there.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 12-20-2016 at 06:41 PM.

  6. #46
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    Where can find the shock towers?
    Very informative thread!

  7. #47
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Thanks, 1sstimer. Tower Hobbies has the Traxxas fiberglass shock tower (part# 2518) for $4.99 - you can find it here http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJE76&P=7

  8. #48
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Happy Holidays to everyone. While I have a few minutes I thought I would post the results of my last track session and current setup for the indoor clay track. I do have my (long) list of upgrades/changes ready to post, but I'll need to have more time to type it all out, so that will be forthcoming in another update a little later. Kind of a bummer that the mind works way faster than the fingers can type lol.

    So the new motor, esc, slipper clutch & LiPo's got a pretty good workout. I managed to run three full packs on the track & was able to switch some tire combos around as well, just to see how the truck reacted. Even though I spent the better part of a day there, I still wished I had more time, simply because there were some things that I needed to adjust from my base outdoor dirt track setup that the truck still had when I arrived at the indoor track that day. Almost immediately, the first thing I noticed was the instant smooth (and considerable) power from the Reedy motor and the huge amount of traction that was available. I started off with Electrons on the truck, as those were the recommended tire at that track for a long time. Recently, they had a big Proline sponsored race there and since then they now recommend Proline Primes. I did manage to get a set of Primes a few weeks prior to going, so I was able to test those as well. With either tire choice traction was unbelievable. After running so many of the summer months on the outdoor dirt track that is extremely slippery, it took awhile to get used to actually having an abundance of bite. The truck cornered like it was on rails and steering was plentiful & consistent. Power delivery from the 2 SPC battery's (one 5000 mAh 50C & one 5200 mAh 70C) was extraordinary and flawless, but that was no real surprise. I was more interested to see how the (as of yet untested) Trinity 4500 mAh 50C would perform. I'm happy to report that this battery was exceptional as well. Not only did it have no issues, it wound up being every bit as powerful as the SPC's. I only noticed a very small difference in run time for the lower mAh rating, but being so much lighter than the other battery's, the truck just screamed around the track.

    The AE V2 slipper was really sweet as well. It was so quiet that with all the other trucks & buggy's running on the track it was hard for me to hear how much or how little it was slipping and whether it was adjusted properly or not. As is turns out with as much traction was available, it wound up being too loose all day. After some people started to pack it up I was able to make a few quick laps by myself and finally get it adjusted to where it needed to be.

    As for the ESC, the Reedy Blackbox performed wonderfully - powerful and no heat issues. I left most of the factory settings as they were with the exception of the drag brake - they had it at 0%, so I had it turned up to 20%. After getting used to the track and how the truck drove with all of the new power system components, I saw that I needed to make some changes to the factory settings to better suit my driving style and the high traction track conditions, but I forgot to bring the manual with me and didn't yet have all of the setup procedures memorized, so I wasn't able to do that track side - had to wait until I got home. The factory settings were very conservative - middle of the road for punch control and power delivery, 90% brake strength, 0 degrees boost timing, etc. When I got home and while everything was still fresh in my mind, I changed the settings to where I wanted them. Which, by the way, is extremely easy to do by using only the power button - no program card or computer plug in to mess with. I went with 100% on the power, 100% on the brake (left drag brake at 20%) and 12 degrees of boost (full throttle only) timing. The reason for these changes being - this track is fairly short, technical & fast with large multiple sets of jumps with no run up to them and turns immediately after them. So, you need quite a bit of instant power to pull the truck over them, and then a lot of brake to pull the reins in for the instant turns after - otherwise a very unforgiving wall is more than happy to greet you - my son calls it the wall of death. Funny story about that - one of the first times we went to this track about a year ago we saw a buggy carrying way too much speed over a set of jumps similar to the current layout, cleared the jumps no problem, but hit the wall & literally broke his buggy in half! Hence the "wall of death". Poor guy, felt really bad for him.

    So, at the end of a great day, I was able to get familiar with my trucks new power systems & learned a bit about some setup changes that I needed to make for the next time there. All of the above ESC changes have been made already, as well as some minor adjustments to the suspensions base setup. With the steep ramps on the leading side of the jumps & equally steep landing angles the truck needed just a bit more "pack" in the shocks to absorb the impact on landing. Also, with this high traction surface I could afford to run a slightly higher ride height. I'm going to test out a little bit stiffer spring in the rear on the next time out, but I'm not sure I"ll need it if the shock oil & ride height change is enough. I really wish Traxxas offered some options of shock piston size, not just number of holes. Two hole pistons are really the only ones that are usable for most track conditions, but there's only one size available. The "pros" are able to use different size 2 hole pistons front to rear for another fine tuning option that Traxxas just doesn't offer. If the shock oil change I made doesn't work the way I wan it to, then I may wind up fabricating something myself. One thing I absolutely won't do is use any shock oil 40wt or above - it just ruins a good handling track setup - I found that out the hard way, so never again.

    Listed below is the setup for the truck as it sits right now, ready for the clay track with all adjustments made - the setup on the sheet that you probably can't see...

    Front Suspension

    Low Roll Center & 29mm Ride height (up from 28mm base setup) - arms level.
    37.5wt Losi shock oil - 2 hole piston
    Stock white Rustler linear springs
    -1 Degree static camber
    3mm Down travel limiters
    Innermost Top shock tower mounting position
    Outermost Lower arm shock mounting position
    0.5 degrees Toe Out
    Camber link on Innermost hole on SRT tower


    Rear Suspension

    Low Roll Center & 29mm Ride height - (up from 28mm base setup) axles slightly above level
    35wt Losi shock oil - 2 hole piston
    Red Traxxas E-maxx linear springs - (may try White stock Rustler linear springs for stiffer setup)
    -2 Degrees static camber
    2mm Down travel limiters
    4mm Up travel limiters
    2nd from the inside Top shock tower position - on Anza Rear Tower
    3rd from the inside Lower arm shock mounting position
    2 Degrees Anti-Squat - (Extremely Important!)
    Hub Carrier in Upper hole on arm
    Camber link on Innermost Lower hole on Anza Tower


    Wheels & Tires

    Front - Pro-line Prime T 2.2 in MC compound on Traxxas Lite dished wheels
    Rear - Pro-line Prime T 2.2 in MC compound on Traxxas Lite dished wheels


    Electrical & Electronic Equiptment

    Reedy Mach 3 7.5T - 20 Degrees Advanced Timing (stock setting)
    84T Jconcepts Silent Speed Spur gear
    19T Robonson Racing Alloy pinion gear
    AE V2 Slipper Clutch w/H.D. Pads - set tight!
    SPC 5200 mAh 70C 2S LiPo
    SPC 5000 mAh 50C 2S LiPo
    Trinity Titanium 4500 mAh 50C 2S LiPo
    ESC - Reedy Blackbox 1000z - (see above for current settings)


    Transmission

    RPM Hybrid Case w/Aluminum motor plate
    Hot Racing Aluminum Diff - 1/2 full of 30K Traxxas Diff fluid
    STRC Top Layshaft with Stock steel gear
    Traxxas Steel Output yokes w/stock Rustler sliding axles


    Bodies

    Jconcepts Illuzion Silverado - Practice body (whats left of it anyway - lol)
    Stock Traxxas Rustler


    Well, that's everything that I can think of or remember. I hope everyone has a safe, happy holiday and gets everything they wished for.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 12-23-2016 at 03:36 PM.

  9. #49
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    Very merry christmas to you tiger. I finally figured out how to get pics up i think!



    This was all i was keeping from the original truck lol.



    I got some work in and minus hinge pins and axles this is the cometed rear end! That shock tower is a masterpiece! And the rpm stuff all fits so nice and exact. This truck is going to be so much fun!

  10. #50
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Geez I slide mine down the street too much to use that. It is pretty though. May get one just because


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  11. #51
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Thank you J, Merry Christmas to you. The truck looks great! What an awesome beginning to a sweet build. Sometimes I wish I was able to start from scratch instead of converting and upgrading a simple XL5 Rustler, but it does have one major advantage for me that will finally pay off - I have just about everything I need to make a complete 2nd truck. The best part being when I mentioned this, my wife said she wants me to build a truck for her!

    Enjoy the build process, as that's half the fun & excitement, and you'll definitely be very proud of yourself when a truly awesome truck hits the track. Keep me posted on the progress, and as always, if there's anything I can help with, just let me know.

  12. #52
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    wow what a thread!!!
    love it...
    I have a rustler that will be racing in open mod 2wd class
    could you post more info on the ae slipper
    thanks for sharing

    how do you stack up against the other chassis?
    Last edited by hotrod306; 12-26-2016 at 09:18 PM.

  13. #53
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    Awesome thread !! My wife bought me a Rustler for Christmas and after reading this, I can't wait to start buying parts and building it up.

  14. #54
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    Thanks hotrod. The AE clutch setup that I'm using is the latest V2 version that has some modifications from the older style. The aluminum side hubs have holes drilled in them for better heat dissipation, larger pads for more contact area and a bigger/heavier spring that now takes a washer under the nut to be able to hold it's setting better. Individually the Associated part numbers are;

    7495 Vented Slipper Hubs
    91170 High Torque Slipper Pads
    7486 V2 Spring & Washer
    6629 Adjuster Nuts

    Along with these Associated parts you'll need the STRC top/layshaft - part# ST3793AE to complete the conversion. I also got another Traxxas top shaft gear (#3195) because the one on the factory top shaft can be difficult to remove without damaging it. This way also you can preserve the original factory setup complete should you ever need it. Purchased separately the AE parts will run $25-$30, but you can find the whole setup on eBay for about $12-$15. The STRC shaft is about $11, and the Traxxas top gear $3.

    It's relatively easy to install, but be very careful how you shim the top shaft on installation - it has to be exact - no play, but not too tight, no binding either. And that's about it, then you'll have a nice smooth, quiet, consistent and easy to adjust slipper.

  15. #55
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ozzgood75 View Post
    Awesome thread !! My wife bought me a Rustler for Christmas and after reading this, I can't wait to start buying parts and building it up.
    Thanks Ozz, glad you enjoyed the thread. Welcome to the forum and congratulations on the awesome Christmas gift! On the upgrade parts... There are so many things out there for the Rustler designed for many different purposes & uses, I would just drive & enjoy the truck as is for now until you decide on how/where you want to use it before spending a bunch of money. Then when you know & are ready, you can seek the advice and wealth of knowledge of the many helpful people here.

  16. #56
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    Flying Tiger Dad...
    I am new to the Rustler gang and have found great value in your thread also. We have 5 acres here in FL and have built a clay/sand mix short course track. Biggest jump is a 15ft triple where the trucks get about 2/3ft off the ground. I was wondering what your tracks are like and if your set ups would work on our type of track?

  17. #57
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Welcome aboard, Unfazed - and thank you. For the most part my setup should be good for your track. Only some minor variances that I can imagine from your description. First, being outdoors & a sand mix I doubt Proline Promes will work - they're more for sticky moist clay. Electrons might work, But i have a feeling that if the track gets a layer of dust something more like a bar type clay compound tire would be better - Suburbs, Barcodes, Rebars, etc. The suspension settings should all be good to go, though - your track sounds a lot like the large outdoor track that I run on (jump/setup wise) and those suspension settings work very well. Given the size property your working with, if it's a large track, you may want to gear up as well. On the larger track I run on I use 84/20 gearing.

  18. #58
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    Tiger,
    The track is relatively small. We certainly haven't utilized the potential of the property. There is only one straightaway where we can fully apply the throttle (using lipos). It fills an area of about 75' squared. I'm using the factory VXL Gearing with factory tires. Only upgrades thus far are aluminum shock caps, RPM front bumper, RPM shock towers, RPM caster blocks and bearing carriers. I've already realized the factory half shafts aren't good enough as they are popping out at the joints. Need to upgrade those for sure. Which ones have you found best again? Is the fan for the ESC an absolute? I see people have mixed opinions on them. Our track only has good clay in the berms and on the faces of the jumps. The rest is reg dirt and can get loomy after an hour of 5-6 trucks running. I am most concerned about getting durability, tires and suspension dialed in first. Which shocks and spring set up did you find best again? Sorry to ask redundant questions but you seem on point wiyh a Rustler set up. I need the advantage over my buddies! Haha

  19. #59
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Unfazed, no problem - glad to help. I'll see if I can't answer all of your questions.... With the details of your track I'd say you probably will want to gear down a little. If I remember right, stock VXL gearing is 23/86, so you may want to try 19/86 - 20/86. On the stock sliding axles - I haven't had a problem with them, as a matter of fact, what's on the truck now are still the original XL5 Rustler shafts that the the truck came with. The plastic output yokes are another story - those I replaced with the HD steel traxxas one's some time ago - Part# 4628X. If you need to replace the shafts then use the HD 4x4 Slash shafts - those are what I'm going to use as well when the originals wear out - Part# 6852X. The fan for the ESC is not an "essential" item, but I do recommend one, as it keeps ESC temps down and just eliminates any future heat issues - a good relatively inexpensive precautionary upgrade. For the tires it's a little difficult to say with the different types of dirt/clay being used - I would suggestthe following perhaps as a "base" setup - definitely use a "ribbed" front tire as they are almost always the best overall go-to setup for most surfaces - Proline Edge would be a good choice there. For the rears, you may want to use proline Holeshots and/or the Bar type tires I mentioned earlier. If it's within budget I'd recommend one rear set of each in order to give you some options as track conditions change. The shocks are stock Traxxas Ultra's, but they have been modified with aluminum caps & hardened titanium shafts. Currently for springs I have the stock Rustler linear white springs in front & Traxxas E-maxx soft red springs in the rear.

    I hope this helps & answers all of your questions. Keep an eye out on this thread, as I'm now only a few days away from a large update/post with all of the upgrades made to the truck that will include part numbers and prices.

  20. #60
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. O.G.'s Avatar
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    Post a few pics of the A2 mod... I did this years ago but used the Associate gearing which sounds much different than the Traxxas gears.
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  21. #61
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    Tiger... Aren't the factory shocks the Ultras? I have already put the aluminum caps onto my factory shocks. I knew that was a must. Are you running any spacers on your shocks? I tried the black plastic shims with my factory shocks (8mm on rear and 4mm on front) and that helped with bottoming out issues. I already replaced both of my shock towers with RPM. Do you recommend I change again to the fiberglass shock towers (SRT and ANZA) as seen on yours? I saw that you supplied the website to buy them.

  22. #62
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Hey O.G., good to see you around on the forum. Just want to say that I loved your truck(s) and really enjoyed your build thread. It was actually your detailed review of the Hot Racing sealed diff, and your discussion of the AE slipper mod that inspired me to get both for my truck - so thank you, they both have worked out extremely well.

    I'll get some pics of the clutch setup posted in the next few days along with some other things I've been working on. Not a lot to see that you probably haven't seen already, though. Looking at your setup again the only real difference is the vented hubs. I'm curious though when you say you used associated gearing, what did you mean? Do you have associated gears inside the trans? If so, I didn't know that was possible.

    At any rate, good to have you back. Does this mean you're running your truck again?
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 12-28-2016 at 06:09 PM.

  23. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by UnfazedRC View Post
    Tiger... Aren't the factory shocks the Ultras? I have already put the aluminum caps onto my factory shocks. I knew that was a must. Are you running any spacers on your shocks? I tried the black plastic shims with my factory shocks (8mm on rear and 4mm on front) and that helped with bottoming out issues. I already replaced both of my shock towers with RPM. Do you recommend I change again to the fiberglass shock towers (SRT and ANZA) as seen on yours? I saw that you supplied the website to buy them.
    Yes, the stock factory shocks are the Ultras, and that's what I run, with the aluminum caps like yours as well as the hardened shafts. I do run internal shock limiters to limit down travel - 3mm in front & 2mm in the rear, along with 4mm of external up travel limiters in the rear to reduce the shock of bottoming out.

    With regards to the shock towers, I had RPM in both the front & the back as well, but switched to the Traxxas 2518X in front & the Anza in the rear for a couple of reasons. While the RPM towers are certainly better/tougher than stock, the front still has a considerable amount of flex, which has a negative effect on the front suspension being consistent and being able to do its job correctly. The rear RPM tower is decently rigid, so that's not an issue, but the Anza offers quite a few more shock & camber link mounting positions for a wider range of tuning ability. Since you already have the RPM towers, I would run those for awhile, see how they work for you, and when you're ready to play with shock mounting & camber link positions then upgrade to something like mine.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 12-28-2016 at 06:12 PM.

  24. #64
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    Sounds great... I plan on grabbing a few of these upgrades at my local hobby shop tomorrow and testing over the next few days. I really appreciate your input. I will do the tires immediately as I imagine they are quite a bit better than the factory tires. I will keep the current RPM towers for now but may move those over to my sons Rustler once he gets a little better at driving and order myself the fiberglass options.

  25. #65
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    That sounds like a great plan! I know with a nice new set of racing tires you'll have a blast... Enjoy, and glad to help.

  26. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingTigerDad View Post
    Thanks Ozz, glad you enjoyed the thread. Welcome to the forum and congratulations on the awesome Christmas gift! On the upgrade parts... There are so many things out there for the Rustler designed for many different purposes & uses, I would just drive & enjoy the truck as is for now until you decide on how/where you want to use it before spending a bunch of money. Then when you know & are ready, you can seek the advice and wealth of knowledge of the many helpful people here.

    That's the plan for now.. The only thing I need is an AC to DC converter or a new charger all together. I took it for its first run and even though it's a brushed motor and stock setup I can't get enough..

  27. #67
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    Thanks for the kind words FTD (Flying Tiger Dad)!!! No I haven't driven my trucks since 2015. I started a new job and am working out of state, driving home my off weeks, etc... and don't know where I am half the time. I have no idea when people check out my old threads unless they comment and it comes through on email notification. And my old laptop broke with all my pics and they're gone for good.

    I'm talking about using the Associated pinion and spur gears, not gears inside the tranny case.

    Also, does your HR sealed diff look like my old one? I haven't seen a new one in a few years.

    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingTigerDad View Post
    Hey O.G., good to see you around on the forum. Just want to say that I loved your truck(s) and really enjoyed your build thread. It was actually your detailed review of the Hot Racing sealed diff, and your discussion of the AE slipper mod that inspired me to get both for my truck - so thank you, they both have worked out extremely well.

    I'll get some pics of the clutch setup posted in the next few days along with some other things I've been working on. Not a lot to see that you probably haven't seen already, though. Looking at your setup again the only real difference is the vented hubs. I'm curious though when you say you used associated gearing, what did you mean? Do you have associated gears inside the trans? If so, I didn't know that was possible.

    At any rate, good to have you back. Does this mean you're running your truck again?
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  28. #68
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    Tiger.... Can you tell me where to get the Proline Edges? Everybody says they're discontinued. Any suggestions or maybe a viable substitute? Also, can you specify which Holeshots to get? Soft? Med? X2 (wider I guess). Will I need new wheels to go with the new tires?

  29. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by UnfazedRC View Post
    Tiger.... Can you tell me where to get the Proline Edges? Everybody says they're discontinued. Any suggestions or maybe a viable substitute? Also, can you specify which Holeshots to get? Soft? Med? X2 (wider I guess). Will I need new wheels to go with the new tires?
    Sorry, kinda forgot that Pro-line discontinued those. I got mine from a seller on Amazon that had some new old stock still. You can find them on eBay, here or there, but the best option is to get the Associated version. I think they purchased the rights to them from Pro-line, as they have them on their Ready-to-Run T4.2's. Tower has both of the Associated versions of the Edge & Holeshots in M3 compound, check them out here...http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...6&I=LXFDX3&P=K
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...6&I=LXFDX2&P=K
    For some reason within the last day or so, the Associated Edge's went way up in price - they were $14, like the Holshots Panther and HPI make some really nice alternatives as well - I have some of the Panthers and really like them. They also offer some good choices of compounds and you can get them with or without foam insert, so you can really customize them to your conditions. Check their lineup out here; http://www.panthertires.com/store/in...tegory&path=62
    and the HPI's here; https://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/4453.
    And yes, you'll want to get new 2.2" wheels to put them on - I forget if you've done any wide arm conversions or not, if not RPM Revolver wheels are nice - factory offsets and they come in black or chrome - http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/product...-truck-wheels/
    Compound wise is a toss up - for clay, get clay compound where you can, not all choices are offered in clay. For those that are not, I prefer a medium compound - long lasting & good grip. Lots of choices & some really good prices if you look around.

  30. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by O.G. View Post
    Thanks for the kind words FTD (Flying Tiger Dad)!!! No I haven't driven my trucks since 2015. I started a new job and am working out of state, driving home my off weeks, etc... and don't know where I am half the time. I have no idea when people check out my old threads unless they comment and it comes through on email notification. And my old laptop broke with all my pics and they're gone for good.

    I'm talking about using the Associated pinion and spur gears, not gears inside the tranny case.

    Also, does your HR sealed diff look like my old one? I haven't seen a new one in a few years.
    O.G., I'm sort of both happy & sad for you at the same time - happy that you're doing well & busy with work, nothing more important than a persons livelihood and being able to support yourself and/or family, especially these days. But sad that you haven't had time for our wonderful hobby - all work, no play kinda thing. Hopefully, sometime soon you'll get an opportunity to return to the fun. In the meantime, it's still good to have you here.

    Sorry about your computer and all the pictures, but at least your accomplishments are preserved here for all to enjoy.

    On the transmission/Associated clutch setup - I think what I was talking about with the gear might have been a little out of context, or I didn't explain what i meant very clearly (very unlike me, I'm normally excessive with details - sorta OCD that way). When I said that "I also purchased a new Traxxas gear..." I was talking about the STRC top shaft and the internal top shaft transmission gear (Part# 3195). I got another Traxxas internal top shaft gear, so I wouldn't have to press the original one off of the factory top shaft - I heard quite a few guys struggled with that and wound up destroying them trying to get them off and having to get another one anyway. So, I thought I would avoid that mess and just get one up front. Now I have the whole original setup complete that I can use to build my wife's truck with all of the extra parts that I've accumulated going through my trucks build. And you're absolutely right on the sound difference, the AE setup is so much quieter & smoother. I got 2 original AE/Kimbrough spur gears to try & have on hand - an 84T & 87T. I also saw that Jconcepts made what they call a "silent speed" series of gears for the associated clutch, that they are discontinuing, so I jumped on getting one of those (in 84T) to try as well. The big difference on that being that they are "machined" plastic, not molded - so supposedly they are much more true & precise. I ran it the last time at the track and the whole trans/spur/pinion combo on my truck is so quite now I can barely hear it when it goes by the drivers stand!

    Almost forgot... The HR sealed diff is still exactly the same as when you built yours - just as awesome & trouble free as ever. I've had mine for almost a year now with no issues. When I built it I used some silicone sealer around the inside top of the bolts and a little silicone grease on the o'rings, filled it half way with Traxxas 30K diff fluid, and I've had no leaks at all this whole time. It just plain works great...

    Best of luck, O.G., and hope to see you here again soon.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 12-29-2016 at 11:08 AM.

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    Mr. Flying Tiger Dad...
    So I had some luck finding the tires today at a local hobby shop. Orlando has numerous options so after some calls, I located them. I haven't tested those yet but I did make the ratio change on the gearing. Favtory was a 25/83 set up. Going to your suggested 19/86 made a huge difference. The truck has less wheel spin and actually launches out of the turns and has quicker throttle response! I can't wait to incorporate the tire change this weekend. I ordered the Emaxx red springs also so we'll see how those work when they arrive. I bought the titanium shock rods you suggested. I'll be rebuilding those this weekend also and testing. Did I read right... you suggest 35 weight Losi shock oil? I also installed the new 4x4 Slash rear slide axles. I bought and tried the new HD steel yokes you suggested but they didn't seem to look right. Maybe I did something wrong. Is there a secret to taking the universal joint off the plastic slide shaft and installing onto the steel ones? Or is literally just bending the plastic away from the u joint prongs?

  32. #72
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    Unfazed, Wow! Sounds like you've really done well for yourself and made some really big progress in a short time -that's awesome. At this rate you'll be dominating the clay tracks in no time. On to some answers...

    The shock oil weight is 37.5wt in front & 35wt in the rear that I'm running now. Generally you can vary that a little, but the usable range is 32.5-37.5 for most track conditions, at least with the 2 hole pistons. Anything heavier (40wt or above) is just way too stiff, and anything lighter (30wt or below) just isn't enough for any kind of jumps.

    The steel yokes should be just a direct replacement - they're the same dimensions as the stock plastic, just made of steel. They can be tricky to install, though, as far as removing the u-joints - as you've already discovered. The only secret is the correct tool to use so you don't damage the shaft. The wrench that Traxxas provides to adjust the turnbuckles has a notch in the back of the handle. This notch is what you use to pry between the u-joint and the plastic of the shaft, the notch fits around the "prong" both supporting it and pushing on it at the same time. Once you've done it a few times it actually becomes quite quick and easy - first few times, not so much. Hope that makes some sense.

    Good job on the quick progress & good luck at the track!

  33. #73
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    That is exactly what I did. The price was reasonable and didn't want to mess with pressing out the old one...

    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingTigerDad View Post
    I got another Traxxas internal top shaft gear, so I wouldn't have to press the original one off of the factory top shaft - I heard quite a few guys struggled with that and wound up destroying them trying to get them off and having to get another one anyway. So, I thought I would avoid that mess and just get one up front.
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  34. #74
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    Flying Tiger Dad...
    Another great weeking at the track! I am getting this thing dialed in! I haven't been able to glue the tires up yet as this weekend I spent most of my time playing mechanic to my 2 kids Rustlers. However, I was able to rebuild the shocks with the titanium rods and add the 35wt Losi Oil. Our local shop didn't have the 37.5. I am concerned though. The rear titanium shafts they sold me appeared to be about 2mm shorter than the factory shafts. Is this right? The rear shocks also had a little spacer on the shaft. Should that stay or go? I see on Traxxas site that they make a few different lengths of ultra shock housings. Can you specify as to which you are running? As always... your help and advice is much appreciated!

  35. #75
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    35wt oil should be a good place to start - you can adjust from there, if needed. On the shafts, Traxxas makes the Ultras in short, long, X-long & XX-long sizes for various applications. Th Rustler uses the longs in the front & the XX-long in the rear. The part numbers for the titanium shafts are 1664T for the front & 2656T for the rears. The spacers are down stops & there fine to leave. You can adjust the size of those to set how much droop you want.

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    Sounds good... I'll get more in depth with that in the next session. Do you ever measure temps on the motor? I've read a few things on that and they say gearing has a lot to do with it. With the VXL motor and the 19/86 ratio, the temps should be good right? I don't have a temp gun.

  37. #77
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    Yes, always good to monitor temps. Traxxas says 180 degrees is max for the VXL, but that's actually quite high. Generally it's always a good idea to keep things under 160 degrees max. With the gearing that I run, I'm normally at 120-140 after a pretty long run. With the gearing you have you should be fine after a full pack. Just let things cool in between runs. A temp gun would be a wise investment - Duratrax makes a nice one that's about $20. and lastly, yes - gearing plays a big part of motor temps, not just pinion & spur gearing, but overall gear ratio as well. Meaning internal trans ratio, tire size (that effects ratio as well), etc. At 19/86 external ratio and a 2.72 trans ratio, your final drive ratio (excluding tires) is 12.31 to 1. For most tracks using a modified motor somewhere around 12 to 1 to 13 to 1 is perfect.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 01-01-2017 at 10:06 PM.

  38. #78
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    I hope everyone had a wonderful New Year's Holiday. I have some things to update on the build with the items that I received from Santa - gotta love that guy (girl, really lol). The three things for the Rustler that I got were - a new racing servo, a carbon fiber/graphite top plate (upper chassis) and a carbon fiber/graphite front suspension tie bar - yes, I have a "thing" for carbon fiber .

    The servo is something I've needed (wanted) for a long time - I think my Traxxas 2075 was starting to go... What I have now is one of the new Reedy (yes, I'm really liking their electronics) RT1508 high torque, high speed racing servo. This servo is digital, ball bearing, metal gear, coreless motor equipped and is water resistant as well as high voltage compatible (7.4V LiPo). The specs are 212.4 oz-in of torque and 0.08 sec/60 deg. for speed. Besides just having some impressive specs, I must say that this is the absolute smoothest servo that I have ever had. In just testing around the house I can see a huge difference already & can't wait to see what it does for the truck at the track!

    The other 2 pieces are purely aesthetic with, I'm sure, minimal performance value. The upper chassis is really nice and does have the advantage of being more "open" around the servo saver area, preventing any binding or debris getting stuck in the steering linkage and might be a slight bit lighter (haven't weighed the truck yet). The carbon fiber tie bar is reminiscent of the old (& impossible to find at a reasonable price) 2532x Traxxas part. In looking for this part I found one on eBay that was going for $40 + shipping!! (Ouch!) Even as addicted to carbon fiber as I am, that was just too much to swallow. So, I did find another, now obscure, manufacturer that is producing them new - Jammin Products. They have them for $8 + shipping, soooo, on the "wishlist" it went.

    I did get these parts installed over the holiday, but haven't had an opportunity to test them out yet - not even on the street, due to the rain we've been getting here. Yeah, I know right, hard to believe it ever rains in Southern California anymore. So for now here's some pictures....
    [IMG]
    [IMG]


    And since I got all of this new stuff (and since I had nothing better to do ) I re-did some of the decals to reflect the new products I'm using.
    [IMG][/IMG]


    Looking back a little through this thread I realized that the only pictures I had with the body on were of my nice, shiny, unscratched, Rustler body. I thought to myself people must wonder if this thing ever gets run. Well, if you think it doesn't, you'd be right - at least not with that body, yet. You see, I like to "use up" one body before I start to tear up another one, so the one you've all seen has never seen the track, not until my Jconcepts Silverado has outlived it's usefulness, anyway. Somewhere in the Rustler gallery I have pictures of it when it was all new and shiny, almost a year ago in the very beginning of my build - I think it still had the Titan motor in it even! It looked like this...



    These days not so great, or shiny...




    I also saw somewhere in an earlier, but fairly recent post, someone asked the question "how do you stack up against the other chassis?" and I must have missed it at the time, because I don't think I responded to that one at that time. Let me answer that by telling everyone this.... Looking like it does in the last set of pictures - the way it looks when I hit the track, far and away the the most common question/comment (compliment?) I get is - "that thing runs pretty darn good, what is it, a T4?"

  39. #79
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    Flying Tiger Dad...
    I liked the upgrades Santa brought you! Any links for these Carbon Fiber parts as I too have a thing for carbon fiber. So I hit the track today for more testing and finally got to run the 2.2 ProLine race tires you suggested. All I can say is WOW! Tires helped a lot! I also added the red EMaxx spring also. I removed the outer 4mm spring spacers I had on the stock white rustler springs as I wanted to try them initially without. I felt like the truck was bottoming a bit so I am going to start with a 2mm spacer next time to see what happens. Interesting note on temps... (I bought a temp gun today) after about a 10 min session, the VXL motor was at 170-180. That is with the 19/86 ratio you suggested. Is that borderline too hot? Should I try going ro the 21 pinion or will that worsen the issue? O.D. on the tires are the same as OE so changing the tires shouldn't have made a huge difference in RPM. Thoughts? And to your credit, your advice has my buddies scratching their heads on why my truck is so fast at the track. I let them in on the set ups though...of course after I whip up on them a bit 1st. Lol

  40. #80
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    I'm glad the setups are working well for you. Not surprised the tires worked so well - having the right tires for the track you run is the biggest tuning tool a racer has. It's kinda fun to beat up on the guys at the track for a bit, but I'm happy that you're able to share your newfound knowledge of your trucks setup - good competition will be even more fun as everyone's setups get better.

    I'm a bit confused on the temps. The tire diameter of the 2.2's are actually the smallest you can run on a stadium truck and will lower the overall ratio. Your gearing is good too - going up in pinion will have the opposite effect and raise temps. You could gear down a tooth to 18T, but I get the sense that something else is going on. 170-180 isn't overheating the VXL system, but it is on the top end of the heat range - a place it shouldn't be with the tire/spur/pinion combo you have. I ran the exact setup on the outdoor track near me all summer with outside air temps starting at 90-100 degrees, and rarely even came close to the temps your reaching. It almost sounds like something is perhaps slightly too tight or binding a little. you may want to check the pinion/spur mesh - if it's too tight it can make the motor run hot. Also check how tight the trans case half screws are - snug is good, but if it's too tight it can bind the gears inside a little and generate excess friction/heat. The last thing to check would be the axles & output yokes - just make sure everything spins freely by hand.

    The carbon fiber look is just so cool - I love it. Here's the link to the upper deck/top plate - https://www.amazon.com/Integy-T8068B...integy+rustler

    And the link to the tie bar - http://www.jamminproducts.com/BuyTraxxas.html

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