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  1. #81
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    FTD...
    When I put the factory 2.8 Traxxas tires next to my new 2.2s, the overall diameter of the tires are the same. Now of course the 2.2 wheels are smaller but the sidewalls on the 2.2s are taller making up that difference. I was under the impression also that going up in number on the pinion gear would stress the motor more thus raising temps higher. I was taught that you go all the way in on the spur and back out 1/2 turn? You suggest something different? I did run it pretty hard for a solid 10 mins or so and took the temps literally trackside. Maybe this contributed to the high temp? I am unfamiliar with the trans half screws so I'll investigate that further. The drive axles all feel good. And by no means do I see a power reduction. She's running better than ever at this point. Also, do you have a suggestion on an aluminum bushing that go inside the shock cap holes so I can use a reg through nut/bolt set up? My hobby shop says the Traxxas plastic ones are all thats available. Also...note... carbon fiber additions are ordered. Haha

  2. #82
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    Yes, the average diameter for 2.2's is about 3.9" to 4.1, so they're fine. Only really need to worry about gear change for tire size when you get into the 4.5"-5" range and above. Your slipper adjustment method is correct, I was talking more about how tight the pinion on the motor was pressed against the spur gear. You should be able to "rock" the spur gear back and forth a small amount, or in other words, the gears should be extremely close but not actually touch.

    For the shock mount bushings, it's usually not a good idea to run metal (aluminum) to metal. With aluminum caps, the plastic bushings are probably the best option - those are what i use with the Traxxas aluminum caps.

  3. #83
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    FTD...
    Ok sounds good. I have checked the mesh on the spur and pinion gears and it appears to be as needed. Not sure what to think on temps then.

  4. #84
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Now it's time for the long delayed list of upgrades that I've been promising for awhile. Before I start the list, let me begin with a few things that will hopefully clarify some questions you may have. First, I have some items marked with an asterisk that denote items I consider "essential" for racing. While these items are important, remember that tires a 90% of a great handling truck - everything else just squeezes out that little extra bit of performance. Typical racer's mentally - "I can make it just little faster off that corner by adding this", or "I can make it turn a little better by changing that". Also, these are the items that I chose, perhaps not one's that you would pick. Due to that, I've added a hashtag next to certain things that can be substituted for lower cost alternatives. When I started this build, the intent was (and is) to keep costs down and not get caught up in the "keep up with Jones' " mentality that wound up being the very thing that caused to stop racing many years ago - kind of reminds me of an RC arms race. Most of those hashtagged items were gifts given at birthdays (like the truck itself) or Christmas, that were probably things I would only have lusted after, but never actually purchased for myself, given their expense - so a HUGE thank you to my family that has supported me in this hobby and been extremely generous.

    The other thing I need to clarify are some conspicuously missing items, like battery's or the many sets of tires that I have and have gone through. This list is designed to help everyone with my personal recommendations for a track worthy/race worthy Rustler, as well as offer a complete comparison to a "kit" racing truck from other manufacturers. Battery's tend to be a very individual choice, and something that any electric RC requires - even the "kits", so those are subjective. I'll leave it up to you. Tires are another that are subjective and more importantly, track dependent, so other than including one set of racing tires, since it's required to make a competitive Rustler, that's up to you as well. Additionally, most modern race truck "kits" don't even come with tires for the same reason.

    And lastly (I promise! lol), looking at the totals on the bottom - those are some big numbers, so I'd like to put a little perspective on them. One could easily say that for that kind of money I could have bought a "real" race truck. Perhaps, but if you look at the true cost of a kit, things add up quickly. Most race truck kits go for $275-$350, then you need a radio system, another $200, then a motor & ESC, another $200-$300, and then since all of them don't come with tires, another $40-$50 - also, some don't even come with a body, so another $30-$40 - now you up to $745-$940!! At which point you'll still need battery's. Starting with the Rustler as a RTR and upgrading along the way has a couple of major advantages as well. For the race "kits" you need to spend all that money up front just to be able to run - I spent (my family spent) $190 and I was good to go - and have been running my truck for the last 15 months, enjoying my truck as I upgrade along the way, as my budget would allow. The last major advantage, for me anyway, is that now I have enough extra parts to build a truck for my wife! So, essentially for the grand total at the bottom, I got TWO trucks!

    So, without further ado, the list;

    *Traxxas Front Shock Tower #2518X $8.00
    #*Anza Rear Shock Tower #ANZA3638 $39.00
    *Traxxas Blue Aluminum Shock Caps (4) #3767A $11.50
    *Traxxas TiNi Coated Shock Shafts (4) Frt #1664t/Rear #2656T $16.00
    *Losi shock oil 32.5wt/35wt/37.5wt (3) TLR74007/TLR74008/TLR74009 $9.00
    *Traxxas Rustler/E-Maxx Springs Frt #2458A/Rear #4649R N/A – Spare Parts
    Losi Spring Selection All Colors – not currently used N/A – Spare Parts
    STRC Aluminum Frt. Bulkhead – Gunmetal Grey #ST2530GM $21.00
    *STRC Aluminum Castor Blocks – Gunmetal Grey #ST3632GM $12.00
    #*Lunsford Titanium Hinge/King Pin set #3726 $21.00
    #*Pro-line PRO 2 Aluminum Steering Rack #6067-01 $38.00
    Jammin’ Carbon Fiber Tie Bar #JMP-2200 $15.00
    *RPM Frt. Bearing Carriers #80372 $7.00
    *RPM Rear Bearing Carriers #80382 $7.00
    *RPM Wide Frt. Control Arms #70662 $8.50
    *RPM Rear Control Arms #80182 $8.50
    *RPM Hybrid Gearbox Housing – Black #73612 $22.00
    RPM Gear Cover – Black #80522 $6.00
    Traxxas Rear Bumper #3677 $3.50
    *Traxxas Steel Toe Link 61mm #3645 $7.00
    *Traxxas Steel Camber Link 49mm (2) #3643 $12.00
    *Traxxas Lite Dished Wheels (2 pair) #1972 $8.00
    *Pro-Line Prime T 2.2 Tires MC Compound (2 Pair) #8247-17 $44.00
    Traxxas Rustler Lower Chassis – Black #3722 $11.00
    Integy Carbon Fiber Upper Deck #T8068BLUE $39.00
    Velcro Battery Strap Unknown N/A – Spare Parts
    *Robinson Racing Aluminum Pro Pinion 19T #1319 $4.50
    Traxxas Top Steel Drive Gear #3195 $2.50
    *STRC Transmission Layshaft #ST3793AE $11.00
    *Associated V2 Vented Slipper Hubs #7495 - Purchased as a set from eBay - $12.00
    *Associated High Torque Slipper Pads #91170 " " "
    *Associated V2 Spring & Washer #7486 " " "
    *Associated Slipper Adjuster Nuts #6629 " " "
    *Jconcepts Silent Speed Spur Gear 84T #2099 $4.50
    *Hot Racing Sealed Aluminum Diff #TE38CH $29.00
    *Traxxas Differential Fluid 30K wt. #5136 $6.00
    *Acer Wheel Bearing Set (10) #TRA5116 $10.00
    *Traxxas Steel Output Yokes #4628X $11.00
    *Kimbrough HD Servo Saver #124 $6.00
    RPM 1/10 Body Savers #80332 $3.00
    #*Reedy Blackbox 1000z & Sonic Mach 37.5T Combo #260C $183.00
    #Reedy High Torque Servo #RT1508 $90.00



    TOTAL $746.50

    # = Items that can be substituted with lower cost selection
    * = Essential Upgrades for Racing - $555.50 + Cost of RTR Rustler Truck - $190.00 Total - $745.50

    One Final word about pricing - these are the prices that I paid with any shipping and tax uncluded, as well as any discounts or coupons used (Tower Hobbies, etc.). So you may find these items for more, or for less - as the saying goes... Your mileage may vary.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 01-03-2017 at 01:58 PM.

  5. #85
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UnfazedRC View Post
    FTD...
    Ok sounds good. I have checked the mesh on the spur and pinion gears and it appears to be as needed. Not sure what to think on temps then.
    Well, not too much left to check. If you've checked everything and it seems smooth with no binding, then the last things I can think of to check would be the bearings in the trans, or the motor itself. Normally if a bearing is going bad it will be noisy, or have a "gritty" feel to it. It could be something in the motor - either a bearing in the motor going bad, or just dirty - you can try a thorough cleaning & lube the motor bearings. The only remaining question would be the accuracy of the temp gun. Maybe check that first, before chasing ghosts on the truck. The last option would just be some "exploratory surgery" on the trans - take it apart & look for a problem.

  6. #86
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    FlyingTigerdad
    Thanks for taking time to make such a great list.

    my track is a new track. and no stadium trucks are going to be ran. so i should look at sc trucks
    so i guess im look at the slash lcg chassis with most of these mods
    i did ordxer the hot racing dif today

  7. #87
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    No problem on the list - I hope it helps. Sorry to hear your new track won't be running stadium trucks though. The good news there is that most all of the setup/upgrades I have listed transfers well to a Slash platform. As a matter of fact, about a month ago my son asked me to set up his 2WD LCG Slash to run on the clay track with me. Everything is I did to accomplish that was the same except for using a little heavier set of springs (Losi silver in the front & Losi orange in the rear) to adjust for the heavier truck, and little lower roll center to compensate for the longer wheelbase & narrower track width.

    Good choice on the diff too. I think you'll really like how it performs. Check out this really excellent thread on it from O.G. here - https://traxxas.com/forums/showthread.php?8972674-Hot-Racing-sealed-differential-review

  8. #88
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    FTD...
    Hey buddy, I ordered the Traxxas Carbon Fiber front shock tower per your link provided. I thought it was actually carbon fiber. They just send me a fiberglass black one. I thought the one I saw in your pics showed actual carbon fiber??

  9. #89
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Yes, the one I got is carbon fiber - Traxxas part# 2518X. It has been discontinued from Traxxas for many, many years. I found what must have been one of the last ones available from an eBay seller a number of months ago and haven't seen another since. I looked again recently because I wanted to get one for my sons Slash, but no go. The fiberglass one - Traxxas #2518 is still being produced and sold by Traxxas. I think they still use it on the Nitro Rustler or something. I had to get one of those for my son instead. It seems to be every bit as good, just not as pretty. The link I provided was for the fiberglass one. Sorry for the confusion.

    What's the latest on your trucks temps? Were you able to find anything?

  10. #90
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    FTD...
    I honestly haven't been back to the track. We are debating going Saturday all day. This whole job thing gets in the way of fun. Haha
    I plan on checking everything over 1 more time before I go out and keeping a constant check. It may have been the lenth of time I ran. My buddy said it was more like 15 mins solid that I ran. Maybe the higher temps were due to the constant driving. And that whole time was pretty much wide open on the track. I'm still scratching my head on it. I'll keep you informed though. Parts started rolling in today so I'm kind of excited to get back to tinkering. New front and rear shock tower came in. New STRC front bulkhead came in. Carbon Fiber front cross tie came in. Upper carbon fiber body panel/servo plate due in tomorrow. On the front shock tower, I own a vinyl cutter so I may get some catbon fiber vinyl and cover it for the look. Lol

  11. #91
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    FTD...
    Just found a company in NH that has the actual carbon fiber version for $12. Figured wth... I got it coming.

  12. #92
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Great news on the carbon fiber tower - those things are really hard to find these days. It seems like they pop up every once in awhile, then just disappear for a long time.

    I know what mean about work - really don't like when it interferes with fun! Also know what you mean about tinkering... as my truck get closer to completion and needs less and less, I find myself glad that I have a new project getting a truck together for my wife with all my spare parts.

    That makes much more sense on the temps too. When I made a bunch full speed runs on the street testing things out it would get pretty hot if I lost track of time having too much fun and staying on it for 15 minutes or more, lol. By comparison when I ran the outdoor track in the summer heat, track conditions were were so dry and slippery, I wound up having to feather the throttle most of the way around, so I never had the opportunity to keep on the power for any length of time.

    Enjoy the tinkering and all the new stuff, and hopefully both of us can make it to the track soon! I don't know about you, but I'm starting to go through withdrawals.

  13. #93
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    FTD... well sir I'd say I had a productive day at the track. I was able to install all the parts today including (Anza rear tower, traxxas graphite front tower, graphite upper body plate and STRC Aluminum bulk head). After a few shake down laps, I put in about a 10 min run and checked temps. They were about 130-140. So I ran the rest of the battery out and checked again and for a 2nd time about the same 130-140 temps. I still cannot explain the higher temps last week other than to say it was due to running for a prolonged amount of time. It was about 45-50 degrees outside today so I'm sure that helped. Either way, the truck runs great with the new parts amd everything is coming together. Very happy with the set up! As always, thanks for your help.

  14. #94
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Sounds like a real productive day! Great news on the temps - it's right where it should be. Glad you're enjoying the setup, and that the truck is running so well. Always nice to see a Rustler tear it up at the track. Glad to be of help.

    I had to work this weekend myself, so no track time for me. I did manage to make some headway on getting my wife's "spare parts truck" together. I think I'll start a new thread on that build in a bit - maybe it would help some people piece a real low budget ride together using existing extra parts.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 01-08-2017 at 07:25 PM.

  15. #95
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    FTD...
    So its been quite a busy week for us. As I originally mentioned when we began talking, my buddy has a 5 acre piece of property and we built an RC track on it. On Monday we redesigned it and brought in 2 full dumptruck loads of good red clay. The track was just finished last night. Man this thing is so much fun! We ran for about an hour this evening. Naturally, I have all the major upgrades complete for a backyard racer. My buddies are trying to get creative and try new things... some I don't see the logic behind and some I do. One that has me puzzled it that my buddy has gone to a really thick toothed metal pinion and spur gear. He says its what 1/10th trucks run and that they're better. I must say it makes the most god awful noise as it comes by me. Almost sounds like the gearbox is grinding. He says its just how those gears sound. His ratio is approx the same but with way less teeth. Any experience with this? Is it really better?

  16. #96
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Wow, that does sound like fun! Great track, good friends to run with, and an awesome truck - doesn't get much better than that!
    With regards to your buddy's gears - he is running 32 pitch gears instead of the 48 pitch. "Better" is a relative term - for bashing, speed runs, or heavy, high powered RC's (think 1/8th scale buggy on 4-6s LiPo's) 32 pitch gears are the norm & a better choice do to their toughness. For pretty much all 1/10th scale off-road racing (buggy's, stadium trucks & short course trucks) 48 pitch gears are preferred. Primary reasons being a wider choice of fine tuning gearing options - for both the pinion and the spur gears, as well as a much smoother, more reduced friction power delivery. All that noise your hearing is caused by increased friction between the gears - Friction robs power, which reduces efficiency. If you look to what the "pro's" run, it's all 48 pitch, because efficient is fast.

  17. #97
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    So I've been off on a little tangent for the last few weeks building a truck for my wife with all my extra parts - you can see the thread here http://https://traxxas.com/forums/showthread.php?9072316-My-Wife-s-quot-Spare-Parts-quot-Rustler-Track-Build.

    But, I haven't exactly been ignoring my truck either. In the thread for my wife's truck build I mentioned that I removed the radio out of my truck and installed it in hers to complete it and get it running to test. Since my truck started as an XL5 Rustler, it came with just the very basic Traxxas TQi radio - meaning no EPA adjustment, no sub-trim adjustments, not even a throttle adjustment of any type. The only adjustment on the transmitter at all is a steering trim, that's it. While it's been a great basic, trouble free, reliable radio to start with, it's hardly optimum for racing and certainly not very useful for a truck with the level of performance and sophistication my truck has now reached. So, since I needed to get a radio for my wife's truck, I opted to "donate" my old Traxxas unit and get a replacement for my truck.

    Until I got all of these Traxxas trucks, every RC vehicle I've ever had and raced with, has only been used with Futaba radios. To me they represent the best overall value, have always been rock solid performers and contained all of the features a racer could want. So now that the time has come to upgrade my radio, I naturally looked to one of their latest radios. In keeping with my budget minded build, I decided to be conservative and not spend $300-$400 on a top-of-line unit. Instead I opted for their fairly new 3PV system. There are several choices for a receiver with the 3PV - I decided on the version that has the R304SB receiver that contains a 3rd channel option.

    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]

    The 3PV is an amazing value at only $130. Not only does it have all of the usual trim, sub-trim, and EPA adjustments that you'd expect, but a bunch of really nice extra features as well. Among those being a 10 model memory, the aforementioned 3rd channel, high voltage BEC capability, and even a fully adjustable ABS function - something I'm particularly excited to check out! Even with all of these features, the receiver is remarkably tiny - even smaller than the Traxxas unit it replaces.

    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]

    I'm only (still) waiting for a break from the job and in the weather to have an opportunity to test things out. I'll be sure to post an in-depth review of the radio system along with the next track report.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 01-23-2017 at 01:09 AM.

  18. #98
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    I made it to the track this past weekend and had an opportunity to test out the new Futaba 3PV radio setup and a few other things. As far as the radio is concerned, it's an amazing piece of equipment. It felt real good in my hand for the entire day, ergonomics were spot on - everything was easy to reach and felt quite intuitive. It looks fairly small at first sight, but doesn't feel too small to the hand. It's fairly lightweight, a tad heavier than the Rustlers original TQi radio, but doesn't feel "cheap". Setting and setup were a pretty easy, but you will need to rely on the manual at first, at least until you get used to it, as it has many functions that you'll want to get familiar with. One of those that I mentioned earlier is the availability of an adjustable ABS. This particular function I was very interested in, especially driving on the outdoor dirt track that tends to be very slippery. With the ABS turned to "high", full power braking was a non-issue - no spinning out, no fishtailing, just smooth straight-line stopping power - very impressive. The other thing that stood out to me was how fast the response time was from input to action - about as instantaneous as you can get. Any faster and it would be reading your mind! lol. Throughout the day it continued to operate flawlessly with no signal/range issues (or issues of any type) regardless of what was going on around it at the track. So for $130 ($110 if you don't opt for the 3 channel receiver) you really won't be able to find a better deal for your money.

    The other thing I got to try out for the first time was a full set of Panther tires that I purchased awhile ago specifically for this track. While the tread patterns looked good for this type of surface, it was the compound that I most curious about trying. Since Proline has discontinued just about everything in their M2 medium compound, all you can get from them in a racing tire is the soft (M3), super soft (M4), and clay (MC) compounds. Now the Prolines seem to work pretty well in the soft (M3) compound, but they wear out extremely fast. One day of running (three battery packs) on this hard surface and they go from brand new to slicks! I have manged to get some other compounds from Proline that are also discontinued (X2 & MX) that are designed for this type of surface and they fair a little better, but even those are done after 2 trips to this track. The thing that attracted me to the Panthers was what they call a "Medium-Soft" compound. I got a set of Micro-Ribs for the front and Switch 2.0's for the rear in this compound to see if they would last any longer. You can see them pretty well in this picture...
    [IMG][/IMG]

    Not only did they survive the torture that this track dishes out to tires, but after a full day of running, they showed no signs of wear - barely broken in, as a matter of fact. Now long wearing is great for the wallet, but worthless if they don't perform - so how did they do? These tires were absolutely exceptional compared to anything else I've even run on this track. The Micro-Ribs in front provided plenty of steering all the way through the turns, from entry to exit, and the Switch's in the rear had amazing forward traction with tons of side bite. Surprisingly, traction and grip were a non-issue all day - which was a first for me on this surface. The truck was still setup for the indoor clay track, but my wife wanted to try her truck on the outdoor track (guess who wins that battle), so the only changes I made were the swap in tires to the Panthers and a slipper clutch adjustment - which turned out to not be enough, but wound up not mattering anyway with the grip the tires provided.
    The only issues I had all day (there's always something) was the wind, and the "traffic" that was on the track that day. Being outdoors and subject to weather is the one real bummer about running there, and even though it was a nice sunny day, the wind can blow pretty hard and create it's own set of problems for any fairly light weight trucks or buggies. One of the jumps on the current layout was a "riser" that launches you up at about a 50 degree angle to a tabletop that happened to face right into the wind, so if you hit it when a gust of wind came up it blows the truck around like a paper cup on the freeway.

    The "traffic" on the track that I mentioned was a whole different story though. In most cases I enjoy a good practice run in traffic - it makes for a better practice session as it tends to be more like racing conditions. In addition to the racers there on this day though, there were a few groups of kids who were on a track for the first time. Which is normally a great thing - I love seeing new people join our hobby, and generally welcome an opportunity to help them out. Unfortunately, this group of new-to-the-hobby kids was brought by parents that weren't into the hobby at all, so were also inexperienced with track etiquette and rules. While I did my best to be a good ambassador for our hobby and help explain things to them, I didn't quite seem to be able to get through. I also think the parents didn't get what I was trying to help them with either, as they tended to ignore me as much as they ignored their children. So, needless to say, trying to run on the track was a bit of mayhem - kids running all over the track in traffic, running their trucks backwards against traffic, stopping in the middle of the straightaway, and occasionally standing in the middle of the straightaway to have a group conversation. I would have thought the first few times of getting hit with some of the 1/8th scale buggy's running that day that the parents would have learned (had they even been paying attention), but I guess not. At any rate, my truck managed to survive the carnage for the most part. I did wind up hitting one truck (E-Maxx) that was dead stop in the middle of the track at the end of the straight at full speed. I suppose it's a testament to the toughness of my truck, as it came away with no damage other than to my old JConcepts Silverado body, which was on it's last legs anyway.

    So despite the issues, it was a nice day of running & testing. Now I can't wait to get back indoors to the clay track and see how it does. It will be sporting the Rustler body that you've all seen for awhile now, and I'm anxious to see how it does with that, as I've not run a stock body on the track since the beginning of my build. I suspect that aerodynamics will be a bit better than the squarish Silverado body now that the truck is so much faster than it was in it's original form. Coincidentally, I did just pick up another body a few weeks ago (a Proline Bulldog), so I still have one in "reserve". Although I'm holding that one for another upcoming phase/evolution of my build. Until then here's a few trackside pit pics.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 02-02-2017 at 04:17 PM.

  19. #99
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    Nice work. I'm replacing my 2pole 3215kv motor with a Castle SV3 and 4600kv. I'm gona run 3s and I've heard the SV3 gets hot on 3s so I'll have to put my telemetry on the ESC instead of the motor. I have a Mamba Max Pro with 4600kv on my stampede 4x4 and it screams. With the 2pole I just couldn't gear it low enough or high enough to keep it running cool after 10mins (battery lasts 15min+). 2pole really struggles now on 3s.

  20. #100
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    @ T DAD and who else that might read:

    I would like to tell a little story about me and how I started. I bought like 4 cars over a year. Oh I was single at the time.  Anyhow, a lst2, and mini baja. Also had a Jato 3.3 and the rustler. Well I ended up getting married soon after. Things got very busy and I could not find the time to run them. Of course, having two girls and a wife that could care less about them, sure didn’t help none. The only cars I drove were the mini baja and the lst2. Not for long then it all came to a halt.
    Before all this happened I was dating a young lady for 2 years. We broke up and 9 months after she had a baby. This was after she moved to Michigan. She had assured me he was not mine. I go on believing this and 8 years later found out he was mine. Won’t get into the details but I never met him till he was 20. He joined the Navy in Michigan. The woman I called a wife is an X now thank geezus. After I was forced to move out. (what’s new). My son found out where I used to live at the time. He went knocking on their door and asked for me. The x and my 2 girls asked who he was. He told them, I am his son. Yeehaaaa it gets good now. I do have another son and they thought it was him. They gave him all my information and I got a phone call from him. Well, we got together. Have for 4 years. What a relationship we have. It’s like I have known him all my life.
    So guess what!!!!  The cars are back in action since we have been together. I got the rustler all ready to go out and do some runs. We just run on blacktop and sometime smooth dirt, for now anyhow! Needless for me to say! I am back and have a better half now, that loves the cars. Yeeehaaaa again. Gave him the Jato. Man that’s all it took. Now, like I said before, I just finished a complete rebuild on my Rustler. I tried to keep it a red white and blue thing! Go USA!...I am not bragging but Think It looks pretty darn good. Got 4 5800mah nimh, 8 Traxxas ID lipos and am ready to go burn some pavement with my son. What a way to celebrate a new relationship with a son I never really knew. I am proud of my build. Like you said T Dad. Very rewarding. William helped me rebuild about half the rusty. Can’t wait! I will post pics as soon as I figure it out. I get to try my painting skills now on 2 bodies. Looking forward to that.
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  21. #101
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    That's amazing lektro. My kids are just 5 (twin boys) but I got one of them a Craniac and the other a Rustler XL-5. I decided I wanted something for street driving since I have an Arrma Kraton for off-road so I swapped my stampede 4x4 for the rustler and combined it with a retired rustler I Kept for spare parts. I've enjoyed tuning all of our cars. i love getting something that handles like crap and making it into a beast

  22. #102
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
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    Thank you Road Warrior! You and your son's have many years to enjoy the sport. How bout your wife, is she willing to get into it? Or is that a dumb question? I totally love my rustler and am more or less doing all this for my son. haha! I have one final thing to do to my rustler which is to mount some weights on the front. For now it will be about 10 oz. I have two pieces of silver molded into skull and crossbones laying around. These will be my weights. Pretty expensive weights but the car will be my son's someday so not worried about using them. Like you, I love working on the cars. Every time you do something new it is very rewarding. From my build I have all the spare parts that I could almost build another rustler. No time soon though. Need to go break in my rebuilt one first. Have a great day and enjoy your sons. They grow up so fast.
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  23. #103
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    My wife absolutely hates the Rc hobby. My kids are still learning and its actually been a couple months since they took their cars out bc they're getting into bike riding. I still follow them with the rustler or Kraton if I'm not on a bike myself.

    10oz is a lot! The Craniac has 8oz and it feels pretty balanced although it just uses a brushed motor. The Stampede 4x4 has 2.75oz but it has a better weight balance. I miss the light-weight Losi XXX-Brian Kinwald edition though but the rear shock tower broke on a small jump. I don't jump my cars but there was a dip in the street that made it jump and it cracked. Parts are hard to come by for that fossil. One day I'll get a midmotor like the Assocated B6D and put a Castle 5700kv on it but I don't have shorty packs yet and that adds to cost. Working on paying my student loans at the moment :-/

    Which brings me to another point- I had a Jato 3.3 which I loved but after I wrecked it I tore it apart for the bearings and telemetry. I still have plenty of 20% and 33% Nitro but I think I'm done with Nitro. The cost adds up!

  24. #104
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Wow, lektro, that's quite a story. I'm certainly glad that things appear to be going much better for you now and that you have this wonderful hobby to share with your children. While I started this hobby long before I was married and had kids, that's the great thing about it - it has something for all ages and is a great hobby to share for a lifetime.

    I actually have two older boys myself, in their 20's now, that live out of state, that I shared my love of RC with when they were little. Many years ago when they were 12 or 13, I gave each of them my old Losi race trucks (a JRX-T & LXT), that they both still have and enjoy to this day. My oldest son took the LXT racing not too long ago and came in 4th with that truck on his first time on the track! Not too bad for a 26 year old truck.

    And you are absolutely right - enjoy these moments that you can share and cherish, because they do grow up so fast.

  25. #105
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    Indeed they do! Yeah I found the nitro's were a pain and costly. I hope my son can enjoy it. He is certainly enjoying the Rustler. Road warrior, do you honestly think 10 oz is to much? I have not run it with the weights and am not sure how much I need. I have read where some people put in 16. What do you think TigerDad. I do know it is a wheelie king. Am trying to tone it down a bit. I don't mind suggestions at all. My name is Scotty by the way. Am new to the forum and am quite enjoying it!
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  26. #106
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    Hey, Scotty. I know a of lot guys use weight up front to keep the nose down, especially the speed run guys that use extreme power systems, but 10 oz. is quite a bit. To put that into perspective, that's as much as an average 5200 mAh 2S LiPo weighs! I have quite a powerful system in my truck, but have never had a wheelie problem, even when the clutch is set extremely tight (almost locked down). The reason for that is the way I have the rear suspension setup for the track. I would suggest trying a much softer setup in the rear before you add that much weight.

    First, to run a softer setup in back, try some softer springs - Losi red, orange or (at most) silver springs, or if you don't want to invest in those, the stock Rustler white non-progressive springs, with shock oil in the 35-40 wt. range - nothing heavier than 40 wt.
    Next, you'll need to adjust the anti-squat setting a bit - stock is fixed at 3 degrees of anti-squat. If your running the stock transmission/rear arm mounts this will be a little more difficult to get done than if you have an RPM or Hot Racing case, because the stock case and arm mount are all together, but it still can be done. I have my anti-squat at 2 degrees, and to do this you'll need to put a 1 mm thick washer under the trans case/rear of the rear control arm mount, between the trans case and the chassis with the rear trans case screw going through it to keep it in place - that screw is a 4 mm, so you'll need a washer with a 4 mm hole size. This will get you to approximately 2 degrees.

    What this will do for your truck will allow the rear end to "squat" under hard acceleration, taking some of that energy and torque away that's trying to pull the nose up. I hope that makes sense.

  27. #107
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
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    Thank you and yes it make's sense. You have much knowledge and don't mind sharing. That's awesome. Everything I had was stock when I was having the wheelie problems. As I said I have rebuilt it and installed a Proline transmission. I also changed the shocks to the big bores and used the oil that came with them. Did not say what wt. but think it is 30. When you say anti-quat. I take it this is the amount the rear end will drop on acceleration. Am I correct to assume this? The big bores came with a very good selection of springs. Before I put any weight in it, I will try some softer springs first. Actually will go out and do some test runs first before I do anything. I am running the stock VXL motor, ESC and receiver for now. I actually think that is all I would ever need. So please tell. Is it easier to change the anti-squat with the proline transmission if needed? I am itching horribly to get out there and run it. Got to work on the car that makes me money tomorrow. So am looking at next weekend to get it out. Enjoy the rest of the weekend sir!
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  28. #108
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    You're very welcome. Yes you are correct - anti-squat = the amount of rear end drop on acceleration. And much easier to adjust without the stock trans, as the rear arm mounts are separate. Actually even easier with the Proline trans, as they have pre-made choices/adjustable anti-squat blocks available separately. Check them out here; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ARFWNJY...I2881OK8KD79SJ

    For the Big Bores - yes stock oil is 30 wt. - a good place to start, you can always adjust later if needed. If you have a nice selection of springs, then just "feel" them and put a pair on the rear that are softer by feel to start with, just make sure also to not add too much preload to them - axles level is where you want to be.

    The VXL system is an excellent ESC/motor combo for most all fun/bashing applications - don't think for your intended purpose that you would ever need or want anything more.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 02-04-2017 at 03:09 PM.

  29. #109
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
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    rustler pics

    http://s1339.photobucket.com/profile.php?do=editpassword/lektro0/story

    Here ere are just a few pics of my build. Hope this works.
    Last edited by lektro; 02-05-2017 at 12:37 PM. Reason: New pics
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  30. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by lektro View Post
    http://s1339.photobucket.com/profile.php?do=editpassword/lektro0/story

    Here ere are just a few pics of my build. Hope this works.
    guess i have not figured the pic thing out yet. It takes you to my photobucket page. Pics are still there though. Any help would be appreciated.
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  31. #111
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    Click on the IMG one. When you paste it, erase everything except the text between the two [IMG] things and include the [IMG] part too

  32. #112
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    just click the img tab and it will flash copied, no need to erase anything just paste here......
    T/SportMax/Slayer Pro/Bandit
    Stampede/Rustler

  33. #113
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    Here's my setup. Ever since I moved the .75oz lead weight off the upper deck and placed it on top of the .5oz lead weight on the upside-down RPM bumper my steering has VASTLY improved. My setup is pretty amazing. Since the Castle SV3 can get hot I put my telemetry temp sensor on it instead of the motor. It's been great.

    19/86 gearing
    Castle Creations 4600kv
    Castle Creations SV3 with fan
    Associated XP ds1015 steering servo (201,.108)
    Front: Black Losi 4.1lb/in 2" front spring
    Rear: Traxxas Pink 6867 +10% Progressive 2.5"
    B2/B4 shock mounts
    50wt/35wt oil
    Stock Traxxas Ultra shocks
    Front shock shaft titanium-nitride coated
    Front/Rear Preload: 8mm front/10mm rear
    Front/Rear Shocks lowered: 2sml/1lrg2sml
    Front/Rear droop: 11mm/2mm
    RPM wide mod
    STRC Front shock tower
    STRC Rear shock tower
    Front: Long Camber Link setting
    Rear: High roll center setting
    Toe: 1 degree toe-out/0 degrees
    Camber: -2/0 degrees
    RPM bumper upside-down
    Traxxas aluminum bulkhead
    Traxxas aluminum 30 degree caster block
    Traxxas aluminum front hub carrier
    Traxxas aluminum bellcrank
    Bandit body with holes for airflow
    1.5oz lead weight in bulkhead
    1.25oz lead weight on bumper
    Tires: Proline Dirt Hawgs/Proline Dirt Hawgs
    Temperature and Voltage Telemetry
    Traxxas wheelie bar with rubber wheels
    Slipper setting: 1/2 turn out
    Steering sensitivity @25.2%
    Throttle expo @zero%
    Steering dual rate @100%
    Sub-trim: 0%
    Right Steering end point @84.8%
    Left Steering end point @100%
    Throttle EPA: 100%
    Brake EPA: 75.2%
    Brakes @80%
    TSM setting: 50%
    ESC setting: 1.Forward/brake/Reverse, 2.Brakes 50%, 3.Reverse speed 25%, 4.Punch control level 1.High, 5.Drag brake zero, 6.Start power Medium, 7.Voltage cutoff Auto, 8.Motor timing Low(5 degrees), 9.Motor type Brushless
    Traxxas 3s 5000mah 25C
    Front/Rear track width: 13.6"/13.3"
    Ride Height: 26mm/27mm






    Yes this is the LONG 155mm Traxxas lipo that fits the slash and E-Revo. Longer run times and more rear traction!
    Last edited by TheRoadWarrior; 02-05-2017 at 07:35 PM.

  34. #114
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheRoadWarrior View Post
    Here's my setup. Ever since I moved the .75oz lead weight off the upper deck and placed it on top of the .5oz lead weight on the upside-down RPM bumper my steering has VASTLY improved. My setup is pretty amazing. Since the Castle SV3 can get hot I put my telemetry temp sensor on it instead of the motor. It's been great.

    19/86 gearing
    Castle Creations 4600kv
    Castle Creations SV3 with fan
    Associated XP ds1015 steering servo (201,.108)
    Front: Black Losi 4.1lb/in 2" front spring
    Rear: Traxxas Pink 6867 +10% Progressive 2.5"
    B2/B4 shock mounts
    50wt/35wt oil
    Stock Traxxas Ultra shocks
    Front shock shaft titanium-nitride coated
    Front/Rear Preload: 8mm front/10mm rear
    Front/Rear Shocks lowered: 2sml/1lrg2sml
    Front/Rear droop: 11mm/2mm
    RPM wide mod
    STRC Front shock tower
    STRC Rear shock tower
    Front: Long Camber Link setting
    Rear: High roll center setting
    Toe: 1 degree toe-out/0 degrees
    Camber: -2/0 degrees
    RPM bumper upside-down
    Traxxas aluminum bulkhead
    Traxxas aluminum 30 degree caster block
    Traxxas aluminum front hub carrier
    Traxxas aluminum bellcrank
    Bandit body with holes for airflow
    1.5oz lead weight in bulkhead
    1.25oz lead weight on bumper
    Tires: Proline Dirt Hawgs/Proline Dirt Hawgs
    Temperature and Voltage Telemetry
    Traxxas wheelie bar with rubber wheels
    Slipper setting: 1/2 turn out
    Steering sensitivity @25.2%
    Throttle expo @zero%
    Steering dual rate @100%
    Sub-trim: 0%
    Right Steering end point @84.8%
    Left Steering end point @100%
    Throttle EPA: 100%
    Brake EPA: 75.2%
    Brakes @80%
    TSM setting: 50%
    ESC setting: 1.Forward/brake/Reverse, 2.Brakes 50%, 3.Reverse speed 25%, 4.Punch control level 1.High, 5.Drag brake zero, 6.Start power Medium, 7.Voltage cutoff Auto, 8.Motor timing Low(5 degrees), 9.Motor type Brushless
    Traxxas 3s 5000mah 25C
    Front/Rear track width: 13.6"/13.3"
    Ride Height: 26mm/27mm






    Yes this is the LONG 155mm Traxxas lipo that fits the slash and E-Revo. Longer run times and more rear traction!
    That ride is sweet man and thanks for the pic info. I will give it a try when i get the chance.
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  35. #115
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JerrysMaxx View Post
    just click the img tab and it will flash copied, no need to erase anything just paste here......
    Thanks for the info Jerry. I will be trying exactly that, after work tomorrow. I guess you can tell I am new at this. lol
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  36. #116
    RC Champion lektro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheRoadWarrior View Post
    Click on the IMG one. When you paste it, erase everything except the text between the two [IMG] things and include the [IMG] part too
    Thanks RoadWarrior! You guys are awesome!
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  37. #117
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    No problem. I've tuned this car for a long time. I got away from it and went on to a stampede 4x4 and Arrma Kraton but I'm back with the Rustler. The handling is amazing, though is not as crisp as my Losi XXX-Brian Kinwald edition. I upgraded my motor from an el cheapo 2pole with a 45amp ESC to the Sidewinder SV3 4600kv system. I have an MMP but that system is on my brother's Stampede 4x4 now.

    If you're wondering why I chose the Bandit body over the Rustler body it's bc of speed. The Bandit body is much more aerodynamic and doesn't parachute like other body styles. It will improve your top speed by ~3mph.
    Last edited by TheRoadWarrior; 02-05-2017 at 09:52 PM.

  38. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingTigerDad View Post
    You're very welcome. Yes you are correct - anti-squat = the amount of rear end drop on acceleration. And much easier to adjust without the stock trans, as the rear arm mounts are separate. Actually even easier with the Proline trans, as they have pre-made choices/adjustable anti-squat blocks available separately. Check them out here; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ARFWNJY...I2881OK8KD79SJ

    For the Big Bores - yes stock oil is 30 wt. - a good place to start, you can always adjust later if needed. If you have a nice selection of springs, then just "feel" them and put a pair on the rear that are softer by feel to start with, just make sure also to not add too much preload to them - axles level is where you want to be.

    The VXL system is an excellent ESC/motor combo for most all fun/bashing applications - don't think for your intended purpose that you would ever need or want anything more.
    I feel the Velineon system runs a bit hot for my taste. I have to put two Bastens heatsinks plus a dual fan Integy heatsink to keep it cool no matter how I gear it (on 3s). Castle systems run much cooler with the exact same gearing.

    I have a question for you concerning the XL-5 Rustler though. I know the 8 bushings at the wheel hubs need to be replaced with bearings (which I did) but does the differential output drive have bushings or bearings? I haven't opened up the diff case yet bc I called Traxxas and they claimed the XL-5 was "brushless ready"

  39. #119
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    If it is one of the "newer" generation XL5's, then yes, it has a complete set of bearings in the trans. That was one of the things Traxxas did quite a number of years ago to make the Rustler "brushless" ready - metal gears & bearings in the trans. So, depending on the age of your truck, it should be good to go.

  40. #120
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    Cool thanks. It's such a pain removing the screws and all that on the diff case so I try not to pry that thing open unless I'm changing something- like putting Ofna diff locker in the Rustler VXL I had before it.

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