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  1. #121
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    I just finished reading thru this entire thread. Wow that took a long time, but such great info.

    I have been building a slash racer to show up the bigger racers at the track. It will cost me as much as a race kit from ae/losi as the only traxxas part will be the gear on the topshaft. I am installing all of the Anza slash parts that they make for the slash. I am also running some key strc parts and rpm parts. I want lightweight and rigidity in my slash.

    I will also be building a rustler in a very similar fashion to your build flyingtiger. It is something i have been focusing on for quite a while.

    I have plans to build a mid motor slash and rustler, which is a lot easier than people realize, although i can't give any ideas away.

  2. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by vwjuice63 View Post
    I just finished reading thru this entire thread. Wow that took a long time, but such great info.

    I have been building a slash racer to show up the bigger racers at the track. It will cost me as much as a race kit from ae/losi as the only traxxas part will be the gear on the topshaft. I am installing all of the Anza slash parts that they make for the slash. I am also running some key strc parts and rpm parts. I want lightweight and rigidity in my slash.

    I will also be building a rustler in a very similar fashion to your build flyingtiger. It is something i have been focusing on for quite a while.

    I have plans to build a mid motor slash and rustler, which is a lot easier than people realize, although i can't give any ideas away.
    My setup is probably better than a midmotor.. Instead of the understeer that many rear motor trucks exhibit my steering is neutral and has amazing cornering speed. It is slightly heavy (as rustlers aren't purpose-built race trucks and are designed with bashing in mind) than say an Associated B6D but it has the battery compartment for much more battery.

  3. #123
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    We have two tracks nearby to run on. One is an outdoor hard packed dirt track and the other is an indoor carpet track. Mid motor vehicles run much better on carpet than a rear motor truck. That's where my mid motor trucks will be ran. They wouldn't be very good on the outdoor track.

  4. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by vwjuice63 View Post
    I just finished reading thru this entire thread. Wow that took a long time, but such great info.

    I have been building a slash racer to show up the bigger racers at the track. It will cost me as much as a race kit from ae/losi as the only traxxas part will be the gear on the topshaft. I am installing all of the Anza slash parts that they make for the slash. I am also running some key strc parts and rpm parts. I want lightweight and rigidity in my slash.

    I will also be building a rustler in a very similar fashion to your build flyingtiger. It is something i have been focusing on for quite a while.

    I have plans to build a mid motor slash and rustler, which is a lot easier than people realize, although i can't give any ideas away.
    Thanks vwjuice. It's been quite a journey so far. Sometimes it's more of a challenge finding time to post all of this info than it is to modify the truck!

    I love Anza stuff, and often wanted to convert my son's slash to an Anza setup - just waiting for him to get a little more serious about running on the track - right now he still enjoys bashing outside a little too much.

    I also thought about a mid-motor setup on the Rustler, but the only "ready-made" chassis is the Chuckworks, and it had some things about it that I just didn't care for, so I decided to stick with the rear motor since I run on both outdoor dirt and indoor clay and that seems to be the best compromise. Besides, I don't have the resources or time to engineer something myself. I do very much like the idea though, and for your indoor carpet track, it should be perfect.

    Like you, I do have something up my sleeve for the next phase of my build that will move things to the next level, and "modernize" the truck quite a bit, so stay tuned....
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 02-07-2017 at 04:35 PM.

  5. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheRoadWarrior View Post
    My setup is probably better than a midmotor.. Instead of the understeer that many rear motor trucks exhibit my steering is neutral and has amazing cornering speed. It is slightly heavy (as rustlers aren't purpose-built race trucks and are designed with bashing in mind) than say an Associated B6D but it has the battery compartment for much more battery.
    I find that really strange when people say that about their Rustlers. All throughout my build, with each stage of changes, I've never had any kind of understeer at all. Steering is one thing my truck has always had plenty of, regardless of the type of surface I ran on. Although right from the beginning, I modified/tuned the suspension & shocks for the track, so I guess I may have "dialed out" that characteristic before it ever really showed itself.

    I often looked into adding weight in strategic places to balance the truck, but it just drives/handles so well, even at it's current light weight, that I just never saw the need.

  6. #126
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    I was pleased to see you are using the hot racing diff and provided the link for the review. I have been wanting to use it and this definitely made my choice clear.

    I am going to build the mid motor trucks on a somewhat low budget build. I will buy a roller from ebay and use an existing truck for a mid motor conversion. It will not be a hack job, but will be done to look like a factory truck.

  7. #127
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    If you plan on using the Hot Racing diff, you might look at some of the notes I made in a separate thread on my racing trans setup here - https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...ng-Trans-Setup

  8. #128
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    I will definitely read thru that thread. I have the hot racing diff already for the slash. I thought about the fast lane machine one, but it costs even more than the hot racing one does.

  9. #129
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    I will be running my trucks in either stock truck 17.5 class or super stock 13.5 class.

    I'm running the rom trans case, hot racing diff, strc topshaft and v2 slipper, but i am running with a vintage Thorp delrin idler gear. Less rotating mass allowing for quicker acceleration.

  10. #130
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    FTD,

    Why not use the traxxas ball diff? You have given me advice on my rustler before which I am forever great full. The ball diff was a change I made that really helped with traction.

  11. #131
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    The Traxxas ball diff (#2520), like so many others, was designed and used many years ago, long before the development of today's high-powered brushless systems and LiPo battery's. While it works very well for what it was intended for, I believe it's just not strong enough to hold up to the kind of power modern systems dish out. You can run it, and it will give you a good working diff, but it will be an extremely high maintenance component, requiring constant rebuilds and subject to failure without warning. By the same token, modern sealed gear diffs will give you a similar diff action (even allowing tuning options with different viscosity fluids), without the headaches of constantly having to be rebuilt. Even people like MIP have given up on making ball diffs for the 272 Magnum trans due to high failure rates.

    There are still a number of manufacturers that use them in "high-end" racing trucks (Losi, Associated, Xray etc.), but they don't fair any better, and still are considered a high maintenance item. Even those manufacturers are starting to follow the trend of a solid, sealed gear diff, offering them as options in their trucks, or making them "standard" with the ball diff being the option.

    I see from your build thread that you are running a Castle Sidewinder SV3 with a 5600Kv motor. With that kind of power, I fear you'll have your work cut out for you keeping up with the hassle & expense of using a ball diff. Personally, and for my use, I much prefer the stronger, more reliable (and virtually maintenance free) sealed gear diff. Since the object is to have a "working diff", providing even power off the corners, the minimal benefit of a slightly smoother setup with a ball diff just isn't worth the added frustration or expense.

  12. #132
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    I'm glad I asked for your input. I was thinking that higher weight diff oil would allow for better adjustment of the gear diff. I am also glad because I can put the ball diff up on eBay and get the anza rear tower instead.

  13. #133
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    I think you'll be much happier with the money spent on a fine quality piece like an Anza tower, than with fiddling with a ball diff. Tuning adjustments with diff fluid is one of the big advantages of using a sealed gear diff - I use 30K wt fluid for my application, but I've heard of guys using as little as 5K, to as much as 100K. Just depends on how much, or how little diff action you want for the type of surface you run on.

  14. #134
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    I added 1.5 rear toe-in and wow it's made such a huge difference. I'm loving it even more now.

  15. #135
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    I'll add to what FTD said about the ball diff.

    When i raced my T4 with a 27t brushed motor i only had to rebuild my diff once per season at most using the stock rebuild kit. Typically it was just by my own choice. I would adjust it once per race day was all.

    Once i switched to just a 17.5t brushless i had to replace it twice per season out of necessity. Now i had to replace the diff with a B fast rebuild kit whoch included polished rings, carbide thrust balls, and ceramic main balls.
    It went from being a $20 rebuild kit once per year to a $65 rebuild twice per year. I also had to adjust it after every race. The gear diffs are much easier to maintain and tune and are far more consistent.

  16. #136
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    I'll add to what FTD said about the ball diff.

    When i raced my T4 with a 27t brushed motor i only had to rebuild my diff once per season at most using the stock rebuild kit. Typically it was just by my own choice. I would adjust it once per race day was all.

    Once i switched to just a 17.5t brushless i had to replace it twice per season out of necessity. Now i had to replace the diff with a B fast rebuild kit whoch included polished rings, carbide thrust balls, and ceramic main balls.
    It went from being a $20 rebuild kit once per year to a $65 rebuild twice per year. I also had to adjust it after every race. The gear diffs are much easier to maintain and tune and are far more consistent.

  17. #137
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    Amazing build! just saw this post today and read it all! Super cool, but I have a question, what was your total cost for all of the parts that you listed you got on this page?

  18. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by SoloRusty56 View Post
    Amazing build! just saw this post today and read it all! Super cool, but I have a question, what was your total cost for all of the parts that you listed you got on this page?
    Mine cost around $700 before I got the sidewinder system. That includes the truck itself

  19. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by SoloRusty56 View Post
    Amazing build! just saw this post today and read it all! Super cool, but I have a question, what was your total cost for all of the parts that you listed you got on this page?
    Thanks Solo, your kind words are much appreciated. With regards to the cost of the parts on this page, I presume you mean the sealed diff parts. If that's the case, you might also find a separate thread of mine, just on my trans setup, useful. You can check that out here - https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...ng-Trans-Setup
    But to save you some time, to summarize just the diff;

    Hot Racing sealed diff part# TE38CH - $29.00
    Traxxas Differential Fluid 30K wt. part# 5136 - $6.00
    Traxxas Planetary Gear Set part# 2382 - $5.00 (not needed if you re-use your old ones, but do recommend, if their old)

    You can also achieve some pretty good results with a real budget diff build like I did for my wife's truck. Check out post number 18 on the build thread I did on that here - https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...er-Track-Build

  20. #140
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Well it's official... After many months of testing and track sessions on both an outdoor dirt, and indoor clay tracks, I can now say that the trucks capabilities far exceed my ability to drive it. Let me back up a minute from that statement, and say that I can drive, and quite well, I might add. Back in the late 80's to the mid 90's when I raced several generations of Losi trucks (JRXT's, LXT's & XXt's), I wound up accumulating a large number of trophies (anybody remember when they still gave those out?). Eventually, that gave way to "race bucks", which gave way to nothing more than bragging rights for a podium finish or win. I raced all over Southern California searching for new tracks & new challenges - I even raced at such famous venues as the National's on the hallowed grounds that were once the Ranch Pit Shop in Pomona - Team Losi's "home" track & facility - considered the holy grail to Losi racers at the time. I met Gil Losi Sr. there (actually purchased my LXT from him, as he happened to be working the counter in the shop that day) and raced against Gil Losi Jr. on their home turf (yes, he beat me). Once I stopped racing, I packed up my collection of about 2-3 dozen trophies and drug them around with me for years. Coincidentally, a few years ago it was these old trophies that got me back into the hobby and racing. My wife was cleaning out our storage shed one day and asked "What are these? Can I get rid of them?". Well, my youngest son saw them for the first time, and was so intrigued, he rummaged through them and pulled out a couple that caught his eye, and put them in his room - they're still there. He asked about what they were for and how I got them, so I told him the story's of my racing days. After hearing them, he said "you should get a truck and race again dad." It was shortly after that, that he wanted a truck of his own (a Slash) and wanted me to get one so we could run together - and the rest is history....

    To get back to my original point - my truck now runs and drives so well with everything that's been done to it, the only way for it to be any better is with a better driver than myself. There's really nothing left for me to do it to make it any easier for me to control it - the last big element for that being the Futaba radio it now has. This isn't to imply that the build will not continue to progress - on the contrary, I have some big plans for things right around the corner that will be taking this truck much further than I could have ever imagined. What will be changing is the original intent of a completely "budget" type of build. With the exception of some pricey birthday and Christmas gifts of certain items, everything done so far is easily repeatable, and can be done for a very minimal cost. It can serve as a guide to those looking to make a Rustler perform on the track without breaking the bank.

    Since I didn't win the lottery (hate when that happens!), I still will always be "budget conscience" and "value minded" when it comes to things for the truck - it is just a hobby, after all (at least that's what I try and tell myself). But from this point forward the things that will be done are completely unnecessary, and probably won't add any significant performance value. I have accumulated the parts I need over these last few months and have had them set aside for when I got to this point. Doing it this way I've managed to wait for "deals" on the these items, and collect them in a very cost effective way.

    I've had this specific idea in my head for awhile now, and anyone who knows me, or those who have followed this build for awhile, know that once I get something stuck in my head, I just can't let it go.

    I'll begin the next phase of my trucks transformation with the next post, but before I move on, I want to take a minute to acknowledge and thank the forum members that have helped me get to where my truck is now....
    First, thank you Oaks - for all your setup and racing Rustler information posts. Without this my truck wouldn't even exist in its current form. Thank you, O.G. for the posts and reviews of things like the Hot Racing Diff & the Associated slipper clutch mods - they definitely take Rustlers to a level of performance not possible without them. And last, but not least, Thank you to Harry697 & Mr. Wolf - your technical information & knowledge has proven to be invaluable getting things "dialed in" and tying together all of the elements my truck now enjoys on the track. All of the information and knowledge provided by these forum members has helped make my journey with my Rustler an enjoyable, productive one.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 02-18-2017 at 02:16 PM.
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  21. #141
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    "Racing Rustler 2.0"


    This next and ongoing portion of my build is going to be filled with "What if's". What if Traxxas updated the Rustler? What if they made a "Rustler Ultimate"?, What would it look like? What would they do to it? With the recent release of the Team Losi Racing 22T 3.0 and the inevitable release of Associated's answer to it in the form of a T6M, what would a "next generation" Rustler be like? The following will be my take on what those answers should, or could be. Given my limited resources, I won't be able to "manufacture" something from scratch, but I can piece together what, in my opinion, a "Rustler 2.0" should be. Due to the lack of manufacturing capabilities, I won't be able to do everything that I would like, but I can come pretty close - at the very least, it will be made into, and have most of the elements of a "modern" truck. I also thought about starting a separate thread to document this new direction of the build, but for continuities sake, and to make it easier for everyone to follow the progress, I'll just keep posting this here.

    First up, shocks. Every modern racing truck has threaded body shocks to allow for quick, easy adjustments to ride height. So, threaded bodies it is. Now, currently the only shock Traxxas has with externally threaded bodies are the GTR's. Fine shocks, I'm sure, but I find them to be a little too "chunky" and heavy for a 1/10th scale 2WD racing truck. None of the competitors trucks in the same class use shocks that fat and heavy. Aslo, if Traxxas were to modernize their 2WD 1/10th scale trucks, I think they would incorporate an updated version of what they already have. I personally really like Ultra shocks - they're smooth, solid and dependable. They only really lack the titanium coated shafts, externally threaded bodies, and some elements of fine tuning to be a real contender. Between what Traxxas offers and what you can get from Losi with spring selection that fits them, tuning them to any condition is pretty easy. This is why I've stuck with them throughout my build on my truck. I've done the shafts & tuning some time ago so, going forward, and to modernize them, I purchased a set of STRC threaded bodies in Gunmetal gray to complete them.
    [IMG][/IMG]

    When putting everything together, there are some specific procedures that need to be followed to ensure trouble free operation. It's no real coincidence that these are the exact same procedures in Associated's manual for shock assembly. That being, to use Associated Green Slime on the o'rings and spacer that go in the cartridge on the bottom, around the seal on the bladder on the top, and coat the o'ring on the adjustable collar with shock oil for smooth adjustment of pre-load. STRC also recommends using a little blue thread lock on the bottom cap so it stays secure. Here's what they look like once completed.
    [IMG][/IMG]

    One final small, but important step in building the "ultimate Ultra" shock - the seal kit that Traxxas sells contains a white teflon spacer that replaces the stock black plastic one that goes between the two x-rings in the bottom cartridge - using this is a must! It makes these shocks buttery smooth in operation - as good as any shocks on the market. With some aluminum caps and the correct springs for your application, you'll wind up with some of the best shocks for a 1/10th scale truck available. Here's how the look on the truck.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]

    That completes the the first small step in modernizing a Rustler - much, much more to follow....
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  22. #142
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    I like those shocks a lot. The threaded bodies allow for quite a bit of "fine tuning" which in reality I do not really need being my Rusty's use has been the small patch of real estate in front of my house known as a street and I have no plans of racing LOL. Bought them more for because they matched the theme I was going for during my build.

    Liked your 1.0 build... can't wait to see the updates on 2.0 =)
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  23. #143
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    Can those carbon fiber look alike towers , upper deck , and shock towers still be found? You mentioned that one of them was super rare.
    Thanks
    Traxxas E-Revo,Traxxas Rustler VXL,Traxxas T-Maxx

  24. #144
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SilentRunner007 View Post


    I like those shocks a lot. The threaded bodies allow for quite a bit of "fine tuning" which in reality I do not really need being my Rusty's use has been the small patch of real estate in front of my house known as a street and I have no plans of racing LOL. Bought them more for because they matched the theme I was going for during my build.

    Liked your 1.0 build... can't wait to see the updates on 2.0 =)
    Thanks, SilentRunner. I like the theme you did on your truck. It doesn't really matter what purpose they get used for, the threaded body shocks just make adjustments so much easier, and makes the Ultra shocks really top notch performers.

    I think the "2.0" portion of the build will be really sweet - a few more smaller things to do, then the big stuff to follow that shortly afterwards.
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  25. #145
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    ..........
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 02-20-2017 at 10:31 AM.

  26. #146
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=FlyingTigerDad;6359420]"Can those carbon fiber look alike towers , upper deck , and shock towers still be found? You mentioned that one of them was super rare."
    Thanks




    Hey SandSlinger - Yes, the carbon fiber stuff is pretty easy to get with the exception of the Traxxas front shock tower (part# 2518X). The Rear shock tower is from Anza and can be found here - http://www.firelandsgroup.com/product-p/anza3638.htm
    The upper chassis/deck here - http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p...3#.WKsJt9IrJeM
    While the Traxxas front shock tower is getting hard to find, there might still be some here or there that pop up on ebay - that's where I lucked out and got mine some time ago. You can readily get a matching Anza carbon fiber front tower here though - http://www.firelandsgroup.com/product-p/anza3639.htm
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 02-20-2017 at 10:32 AM.
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  27. #147
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    Thank you very much. I think I'll go that route. I love this thread of yours.
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  28. #148
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    This installment and post will be all about adjustments, something that is a big complaint with the Rustler, as in it's stock form, it has relatively few adjustments that can be made to many of the suspension settings. Suspension adjustments are critically important for optimum track performance, and something that ALL modern race bread RC's contain a ton of. Some of the very basic suspension settings such as rear toe-in, anti-squat and castor are things that generally seldom change much from track to track, assuming you don't run on entirely different surfaces. The other basic adjustments, like front toe-in and camber are things that the Rustler is already capable of - at least in VXL form. For my truck, most of the changes to accommodate these basic adjustments has already been done. For instance, mine started as an XL5, so it had fixed camber links - those have been replaced with adjustable turnbuckle style links. Rear toe-in is now accomplished with the rear suspension arm mounts with the RPM trans that was installed, and is set at 3 degrees. If I need to change that for any reason (doubtful, as this is a pretty "standard" setting), I can go with any number of rear hub carriers from 1-2 degrees. Since the RPM rear arm mounts are separate from the trans, I can also adjust anti-squat easily with shims, but again, the 2 degrees it's been adjusted to now is also a pretty standard optimum setting that will rarely change. Stock castor/kick-up angle is 30 degrees - once again pretty standard and optimal, and will seldom change, but can be done easily to 25 degrees with -5 degree front castor blocks that are readily available.

    So those are the basics that I've long since made my modifications to. Now for the real "fine tuning adjustments" such as shock mounting positions (upper and lower), and roll center adjustments. I'll start with shock mounting positions. I've already replaced both the front and rear shock towers awhile ago - the front with the SRT tower and the rear with the Anza tower, and both have several positions for shock mounting. The front tower has 2, only up from one on the stock tower, but from what I've found so far, that's all that's needed. I use the outer hole, which is the same as the stock location, and the other available position is in one from that, if needed. On the rear Anza tower there are 4 choices available, which I use from time to time for various track conditions/set-ups. For the lower mounting positions, with the RPM arms on the truck, it has 2 choices in front & 3 in the rear. The front is on the outer position and never changes - so don't need anymore there. The rear is currently on the outer position as well, but I occasionally use the middle depending on track layout/conditions - so I'm covered there too.

    The real big deal where the Rustler needs updating to modern race truck specs is in roll center adjustment. This is something that all competitive race trucks have really concentrated on for the last few years. The reason for this, I believe, is due to the big changes in type of track surfaces - from just loose dirt years ago, to now sticky clay, carpet and astroturf. This shift in track types necessitates the ability to change roll centers, both front and rear, to be able to dial a truck in. For the front, the stock SRT tower has 2 inner camber link mounting choices. And since this part was designed for a decades old truck, neither is really a low roll center setting, so I drilled a new hole in it that is both higher and in more than the stock locations. You can see it fairly well in this picture - the stock holes are empty right below the camber link nut.
    [IMG][/IMG]

    For the outer front camber link mounting position I left the STRC castor block alone that have only one choice simply because I like where it is and how it works, but if I need anymore adjustment there, I'll go with the Anza blocks that put the link on top of the block and are adjusted with spacers.

    In the rear, the Anza shock tower has 6 choices - plenty there, but the stock (and RPM replacement) rear hub carriers only have one. So I replaced those with a set of Proline Pro-Trac carriers that offer 6 choices as well - they look like this.
    [IMG][/IMG]

    And on the truck like this.
    [IMG][/IMG]

    My apologies for the poor quality pictures, but they are actually larger images that were "zoomed in" just to show the detail of what I'm talking about. I had to crop them because they contain some of the rest of the truck with the next phase of modernization already completed that I will be revealing in the next post.

    So, there you have it - a Rustler with all of the adjustments a modern race truck could ask for. To sum it up - 4 front shock mounting combinations, 12 rear shock mounting combinations, 3 front camber link combinations, 36 rear camber link combinations, 6 rear toe-in choices, 2 front castor choices, infinite camber and anti-squat adjustments choices, at least 10 different spring choices each for the front and rear (between what Traxxas & Losi offer), and infinite spring pre-load adjustments with the threaded shock bodies. I think I'm pretty covered on adjustments for whatever the track can throw at me.
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  29. #149
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    So today is the day that I reveal the single largest piece of the modernization of my truck. It's a major transformation and will bring the Rustler up to a true "Racing Rustler 2.0" spec. That piece is an aluminum chassis. Now I'm not talking about some heavy, finely crafted piece of jewelry like an FLM or RC Reaper chassis that the speed run guys use, I'm talking about a (relatively) light, slender and sleek chassis similar to what other off road racing platforms contain. If you look at the competition, every single class of racing vehicles - 1/10 scale 2WD & 4WD buggy's, 2WD & 4WD Short Course trucks, Stadium trucks, as well as 1/8 scale buggy's & truggy's from every single manufacturer - Losi, Associated, Tekno, Xray, Serpent, Kyosho, Mugen, Team Durango, Proline - ALL use an aluminum chassis. As a matter of fact, I'm not aware of one single competitive off road racing vehicle that doesn't. So, if my truck is to be modernized to current competitive racing vehicle specs, then it needs to have an aluminum chassis as well.

    To keep things simple (and cost effective) as well as remain close to something that Traxxas might do if they were to update the Rustler, I used a Proline Pro-MT chassis for the conversion. This chassis is the same as what's used on their competition level short course truck (PRO-2 SC), but with the appropriate shorter wheelbase for a stadium truck. In fact, the dimensions of this chassis, as far as wheelbase & suspension mounting point width is concerned, is exactly the same as the Rustler. Other things like transmission mounting and bulkhead hole locations are the same as well, so installation is a breeze with no real modifications necessary. It also maintains a rear motor setup and the ability to use standard sized LiPo battery's.

    The idea of using this chassis is not new, but not common either. I first saw this done by Proline themselves, when they converted a PRO-MT truck into a stadium truck a few years ago. Since then I've only seen 2 others do this - one was a guy that converted a PRO-2 SB short course buggy into a stadium truck, and the other was a forum member here that built one out of a Rustler for his son to bash with about a year ago. That last one was the only actual Rustler that I've seen converted and it wasn't made into a track racing truck - the other 2 were actual Proline products in every way. Even the Rustler that was done used almost all Proline components, so it was very similar to the converted Proline vehicles in that respect. I myself first got this idea after seeing Proline's original conversion and didn't see the other 2 trucks until very recently, after I had started to compile my parts for my own conversion. While not unique in the idea, mine is unique in the execution - meaning, it's the only actual Rustler converted in this way, designed as an off road race truck.

    Here are some detailed pictures showing what it looks like now...








    I am still a bit skeptical about how it will work out on the track, but if absolutely every other racing truck is using this type of setup, then there must be something to it. One of my biggest concerns, of course, is weight. So I weighed the chassis as I received it - with side pods, top plate, servo and esc mounts installed. Here's what I got...


    I then weighed the stock chassis with the same pieces installed on it and found that the new setup is 43 grams heavier than the old. Not too bad, but there are some things to consider with that comparison. While the new chassis is slightly heavier, the bulk of that weight sits quite a bit lower than the old, due to the raised sides of the stock Rustler chassis. So now the center of gravity is actually much lower. Also, with the way some of the items are installed on the chassis (servo, receiver, etc.), some of the weight is moved a bit forward & some is moved back (ESC). Since the truck started out so light to begin with, I'm not really concerned with that minimal increase - it actually may give the truck a more planted feel than it already had. Especially when you consider that most pro drivers add brass ballast weights under the battery pack that range from 40-70 grams specifically for that purpose - so we'll see.

    In the end the several big advantages I have in doing this conversion are that first, If for any reason it doesn't work out, nothing has been irreversibly modified to where I can't just easily go back to what I had. And second, I managed to get an exception deal on eBay for this "complete" chassis - $39! So if it works, I only spent 39 bucks - the opposite is also true - if it doesn't work, I only spent 39 bucks.

    One last note on the conversion - the stock Rustler body still fits perfectly with no modifications/changes at all, as you can see for yourself.


    Lastly, with this big change, I do have some things ordered that will arrive next week to finish off the install. In particular, a vinyl adhesive chassis protector (gotta keep it pretty!) and a few new rear springs to try out for the slight weight increase. Then it's off to the track...
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 03-04-2017 at 02:49 PM.
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  30. #150
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    I can never see your pictures. The links are always broken. And id like to see them. Is it just me?


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  31. #151
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    That's really weird - I've never heard anyone else mention that. I wonder if it's compatibility issue between Tapatalk & Picturetrail? I did try one edit just now for something I've noticed in the past - let me know if you can see them now. I'd really like you see them too! After all, no matter how much I ramble, a picture is still worth a thousand words.
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  32. #152
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingTigerDad View Post
    That's really weird - I've never heard anyone else mention that. I wonder if it's compatibility issue between Tapatalk & Picturetrail? I did try one edit just now for something I've noticed in the past - let me know if you can see them now. I'd really like you see them too! After all, no matter how much I ramble, a picture is still worth a thousand words.
    Yep. I can see them all now. Thanks


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  33. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    Yep. I can see them all now. Thanks


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    You're welcome, and thank you, Gripdog. I'm glad you mentioned something, makes me wonder how many other people had the same issue but never said anything.
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  34. #154
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    Once again great build, the chassis completes it. this thread is a great reference to anyone wanting to max their rustler.

    I couldnt find the info on your transmission set up? You changed out the slipper, anything else? No proline transmission yet?
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  35. #155
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    Nice write-up and ride!!!

  36. #156
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanRose View Post
    Once again great build, the chassis completes it. this thread is a great reference to anyone wanting to max their rustler.

    I couldnt find the info on your transmission set up? You changed out the slipper, anything else? No proline transmission yet?
    Thanks Ian. I actually did a separate little thread on the transmission build some time ago with all details - you can find it here https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...ng-Trans-Setup
    That was done before I did the AE slipper conversion though. I have the info for that mod detailed in this thread on page 2 post #54 that includes part numbers and some installation notes.

    I've thought about the Proline trans quite a bit and almost pulled the trigger on it a couple of times (the HD version with the steel gears), but what I've been able to piece together has just worked so well and been so tough & reliable, the $111 price tag for one just doesn't seem very attractive. At some point I might still do it just to see how it works & put mine in my son's 2WD Slash. But for now that kind of cash can be spent on a lot of other cool little things.
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  37. #157
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blown94 View Post
    Nice write-up and ride!!!
    Thanks Blown, I really appreciate the kind words.
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  38. #158
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    Just wanted to post a few additional notes on the chassis conversion that I did't go into on the original post for that. In particular, regarding the side pod extensions. The PRO MT chassis uses very large "extended" side pods designed to keep out dirt and mud with the raised monster truck body that it comes with. These of course, are not needed on a track truck, so they must be cut down to mimic those on most race trucks - like Proline themselves use on their short course PRO-2 SC. Because the PRO 2 SC uses a longer wheelbase than the PRO MT, you can't just substitute them.

    When I purchased the fairly complete chassis on ebay, it came with the extended side pods, but I didn't happen to get any pictures before I cut them down. They look like this in their original form.


    In this picture you can see the line where they are taped off where you'll need to cut them to be level with the inner cross bracing that's molded into the lower portion.


    These are both Proline pictures they took from their conversion article. I was actually so excited that I got a new (real) Dremel, that I couldn't wait to try out, I just started cutting right away. The Dremel made quick work of cutting these down to where they should be. A quick sanding job to to finish things off, and it winds up looking factory.


    I also used the Dremel to cut a small channel in the left hand side pod for the ESC wire to run up to the receiver, so it wouldn't be just laying loose next to the battery and have a chance to get chaffed. You can see it fairly well in this picture.


    To finish that off, I used some black RTV silicone sealer in the channels that I cut to both secure & insulate the wire.

    I'm still waiting on the chassis protector & rear springs to install/sort out, that should arrive this week, then the next thing will be painting my "backup" body for a whole new look. In the meantime, I'll be hitting the track with this one for the first time - hopefully by the weekend.
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  39. #159
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    It's been a frustrating few weeks since my last post - not with the truck itself, but more with circumstance. Due to my work schedule, it can get really hard to find time to get to the track, and that's been the case recently. I wanted to be able to post a track report with this next update, but unfortunately can't, since I haven't been able to get there. In the meantime, I can fill you in on some of things I've gotten done recently & post some eye candy.

    I received my order that contained the chassis protector & rear springs as well as a few other items that I'll get into in a minute. First the chassis protector - I purchased the JConcepts clear vinyl sheets (2 in a package for $6) that you just cut to fit, peel and stick. That worked out nicely - I like the solid sheet that covers the screws better than some of the pre-cut ones that have holes at the screw locations as it seems to protect a bit better, I think. The springs that I wanted to try were some Traxxas units that are used on a T-Maxx. They're about 2 3/4" long like the red E-Maxx springs I'm currently using, but are slightly stiffer - 2.9 rate as opposed to 2.5. In the end, I wound up not using them on my truck because I changed the setup in the rear of the truck a little that did what I was trying to accomplish. I may use them in my wife's truck, as hers seemed a little bouncy with the stock Rustler white rear springs the last time at the track.

    The change in the rear suspension involved relocating the rear shock mounting positions (top & bottom) that I was able to do with some new rear control arms. I replaced the rear RPM arms I had with a pair of Pro-Line Pro-Trac arms. I did this because of something I noticed awhile ago that I never addressed - specifically, excessive flex. Many months ago I was playing around with lower shock mount positions with the RPM arms and I saw that the factory length screw that held them in place looked a little short, so I replaced it with a longer one. I didn't have the exact length that I wanted and used one that was a little longer that stuck through the back of the mounting hole a tiny bit, figuring I'd replace it later with one that fit more precisely. I moved the suspension through it's full range of travel (without any shock mounted) to make sure that the protruding screw didn't interfere with the axle shaft at all, which it didn't - it had at least a good 3/8" clearance at it's closest point. After running the truck a few times at the track like that, I noticed the axle had a lightly engraved groove all around it right where the end of the screw came through the arm - so I checked it again through its full range of travel, and again, still plenty of clearance. That's when it hit me that the rear arm was actually flexing that much on landings to make it have contact. At the time I just replaced the screw with one that fit completely flush with the back of the mounting hole, since I had purchased a bunch of hardware, but never went back to address the real issue - the arm itself.

    The Pro-Line arms seem not only much beefier, but also much more rigid - so they should take care of any excessive flex and allow the rear suspension to work more like it should. These arms also have some other differences that I like as well. In particular, they have 4 lower shock mounting positions, as opposed to the RPM's 3 - not only adding one, but changing the geometry a little as well. And, since these arms have 3 degrees of toe-in built into them, it was necessary to replace the inner arm mounts on the RPM trans from the 3 degree toe-in to the 0 degree toe-in mounts. With all of this done, I'm now using the 2nd from the outside upper shock mount on the Anza tower & the 2nd from the outside lower mounting position on the Pro-line arms. This in conjunction with the same 2.5lb. rate E-Maxx rear springs I was running already, really make the rear end feel much better than it did before. Here's a few pictures of the chassis protector & new rear suspension setup.




    The last, and most significant thing I was able to get done was more in line with the "modernization" part of the truck. That one being a new cab forward, or Builldog body. I've had this one for awhile, but with the demise of the JConcepts Silverado body, now seemed like a good time to get it painted and mounted up. While I really like the stock Rustler body (with a nice paint job - not the Pro-Graphix version), every modern competitors truck out there uses one of these cab forward designs - so while I'm not a big fan, I thought I would give it try - supposedly, these things have an aerodynamic advantage. Not being able to make it to the track left me in not the greatest of moods when I did this one, so it turned out to be the worst body I've painted in years. The colors & the scheme came out well, but I painted the last steps kind of out of sequence, and had to do some "after the fact" paint repairs. Fortunately, those worked out O.K., but I'm still not very thrilled with it...








    The one thing I did do differently on this body that I'm starting to really like is the "frosted" wing. I duplicated the pro drivers by using a scotchbrite pad, scuffing up the back side of the wing & leaving it unpainted and without decals. I may continue that on future body's.

    So, there you have it, improved, modernized and pristine, just collecting dust until once again I get to enjoy the smell of the dirt...
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 03-23-2017 at 05:16 PM.
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  40. #160
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    Ahh nice I am planning on on the bulldog body for my rustler as well. I dig yours and those ultra shocks look amazing
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