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  1. #201
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    So between the prolne pin and stiffer plastic of the c blocks, do 6ou think this would be an alternative to alum c blocks?
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  2. #202
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    So between the prolne pin and stiffer plastic of the c blocks, do 6ou think this would be an alternative to alum c blocks?
    I didn't use the plastic c-blocks that came in the kit - I still have my aluminum ones on the truck. I only got that kit in the picture because it's the minimum way to get the bearing carriers - they don't sell them separately. But it's still only $5 for that kit.

    I did check them out though - and while they're not quite as flexible as the RPM ones, they'll still bend a hardened pin with a moderate hit. Kind of a shame too, I liked the multiple camber link choices they offer. I wouldn't want to take the chance with them on the track, and definitely wouldn't recommend them for any bashing duties.
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  3. #203
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Bummer. I like extra mount options.
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  4. #204
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    I picked up a set of the proline rear carriers. They really do make a big difference in removing the play that's in the stock parts, plus they're a lot stiffer plastic than the rpm parts. I had to shave a little off of them for them to work with the smaller buggy wheels.

    And I finally drove the car for the first time today. Like you, I focused on removing weight and flex from the chassis/suspension. The result is a car that is considerably more controllable than any other traxxas that I've ever driven. No more snap-oversteer and very precise vehicle placement. This is with shocks that I took off my eagle that has been sitting on the shelf for several years, and those cheap tires that I got off Amazon, so I still have lots of room for improvement. I'm waiting on parts to come in so that I can rebuild those shocks. Curious if they even have oil left in them at this point.

    At any rate, for anyone that is wanting to race a rustler, or just improve its handling, follow the suggestions in this post. I've done several builds in the past and this is by far the best Result.
    Last edited by jmauld; 07-29-2017 at 12:01 AM.

  5. #205
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Thanks jmauld. I'm really glad that the information here is able to help. Even though I wanted to document my build, ultimately, the true purpose of this thread is to be able to help others achieve positive results and get the most enjoyment out of their rc experience.
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  6. #206
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    About a month ago the outdoor track that I go to (Hot Rod Hobbies), held their 20th annual Off Road Shootout. This is one of several large sponsored races they have throughout the year that brings all the big name pro drivers & teams, and this year was no exception. The race was a three day event, Friday and Saturday qualifying, and Sunday for the mains. And while I wasn't able to participate in this race (had to work that Friday & Saturday), I did manage to attend the mains on Sunday as a spectator. The racing was quite intense, and the competition couldn't have been any closer. It was another exceptionally hot, humid day with quite a bit of wind, and even all of these pros were struggling from time to time getting tossed around in the air when a big gust of wind would come up - some of the same issues I had on days like that. Glad I wasn't the only one....

    The track had a new layout for this race, and was very nice, needless to say. They also kept it well groomed throughout the day - it was hard packed, blue groove and they would water every once in awhile, but take a blower between heats to keep the layer of dust to a minimum as it dried out. Here's a picture of the starting grid for 2WD Modified buggy with every big name team driver on the stand behind it.



    As I mentioned, the racing was pretty intense - it looked like this all day, in every main from beginning to end...



    In the above picture you have Spencer Rivkin (Team Associated), Ty Tessman (Team Xray) and Ryan Cavalieri (Team Associated) nose to tail in the turns before the long straight. It was like that all day. Only the slightest bobble or mistake allowed anyone to change positions - very fun to watch.

    One of the things I wanted to talk about, while mentioning the sponsored racing at this track, has to do with another race that they had there November of last year - The Reedy Outdoor Off-Road championship. The reason for that is one particular race - 17.5T Stock Stadium Truck. In this race a Team Associated sponsored driver, Chris VanAir, ran a "barn find", new but never run RC10T (1992 vintage) truck, and won the race. This was not a vintage truck race, so VanAir was competing against the latest Losi and Associated mid-motored trucks! What makes this even more amazing, is that in the last few minutes of the race, he was running in second place and actually took the lead in the air over a set of jumps (triples) to pass a T5M for the lead, which he held to the end for the win! Here is the video of that race - it's quite an eye opener to watch.



    So what does this have to do with the Traxxas Forum, and specifically the Rustler? Well, my point is really quite simple - to all those that think rear motored trucks are a thing of the past and can't be competitive anymore, and those that think an "old school" designed truck like the Rustler can't be competitive- watch this video, and watch a 25 year old design, rear motored truck walk all over the the latest, high tech trucks from all the high end manufacturers. And if you still can't believe it, watch again.

    To me this more than proves what many Rustler racers have said here (myself included) many times over the years - that it's a combination of drivers skill and tire/setup for your track that will be the big deciding factors on who stands on the podium, not having the latest, greatest high end equipment. If you want to race a Rustler/Bandit, go right ahead, and do so knowing that with a little effort and homework put into the setup, and lots of quality practice, that you'll have just as much chance of winning as anyone else, running anything else.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 08-19-2017 at 12:05 PM.
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  7. #207
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    I made it too the outdoor track and had an opportunity to test the new chassis setup there. They still had the same layout as the Off Road Shootout from last month, so I got to run on the same track setup that I watched the pros run on. Which was a nice advantage since I saw the line they were driving all the way around the track, and that made it much easier for me to get used to the layout, and allowed me concentrate more on the truck. Unfortunately, the weather was horrible - it was pushing 100 degrees with 85%-90% humidity, so even the large picnic umbrella's we brought for some shade in the pits was little relief.

    While I had changed the tires to the Panthers that work well on this track, I still was running the "super soft" setup on the suspension from the last clay track run. I usually run just a "soft" setup on the outdoor track, but I wanted to see how the truck would do with that setup to start. Well, the super soft setup was definitely not the hot ticket there. The truck still did fairly well, but traction was once again an issue, that hadn't been before with the previous suspension settings and the truck also bottomed out a little harder than I find acceptable. Not all the fault of the too light of a setup though - the track was as dry as Death Valley and a little blown out from the previous nights races.

    As I made some changes in the pits, my youngest son did some track maintenance and watered a bit. By the time he was done he was bright red & I thought he was going to pass out from working in the sun with the extreme heat/humidity. My wife soaked a towel, put it on him and had him sit in the shade with some water. We wound up leaving shortly after that - she kept an eye on him while I ran about a half a battery, but it was just too hot to stay for more. Even with the short runs, the equipment was getting too hot as well.

    I did manage to get in enough run time to get an idea of how the new chassis works on this track though. With the return to my previous suspension settings & a little track maintenance, the truck did quite well and felt right at home. When compared to the old Rustler chassis with the same suspension setup, the only real difference I saw was a little better jumping ability -very flat & extremely controllable in the air.

    So not a whole lot of surprises there. But I did get one real shocker a couple of weeks ago. I found out that the indoor clay track that I run on is changing from clay to carpet! . As the emoji's show, I'm not quite sure how I feel about that. While I'm sad to see another dirt track go, I'm also quite curious/excited to check out carpet. I've never run on a carpet track, so that will be a whole new experience for me.

    They've had the track closed for a few weeks while they made the change over, but opened back up this past weekend with some free practice & a "test" race to break the carpet in. Currently, it only has a very basic layout for the break-in period, but I'm told it will have a new race-ready layout with some more features within a week or so.

    So, they went from this...


    to this...


    Just when I thought I had this truck dialed for both the tracks I run on.... Time to get an education in carpet track setups, new carpet tires, firmer spring selections.... Here we go again!
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 08-21-2017 at 03:09 PM.
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  8. #208
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Get ready to go through tires, and cleaning what I call "black mud" out of every nook on the car haha. It is cleaner though and a little air gets the rubber dust off. I had fun racing carpet, best part was no dirt to clean up. Worst part was no dirt haha.

    Edit: oh and it's easy to find parts if something falls of 8)
    Last edited by rag6; 08-22-2017 at 05:27 PM.
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  9. #209
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Yeah, rag, that pretty much hits the nail on the head and sums up how I feel about it - all of the pros are the same as all of the cons. And I never even thought about how easy it would be to find parts, but I'm sure that has to be better than scouring through dirt.

    I just saw another video from the track this morning. They've modified the layout & added the new features they mentioned previously. Funny thing, in one of the videos they posted, there's a guy vacuuming! Never thought I'd see the day when off-road track maintenance would include a vacuum.
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  10. #210
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    You gonna run pins or foams?

  11. #211
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Hey Grip. On their Facebook page they have the recommended tires for the new track, and they're all rubber, no foams. Pro-Line Wedges for the front, Pin Downs for the rear, and JConcepts Swaggers front, Pin Points rear. I'm going to go with the JConcepts option for a couple of reasons - first, they're a smaller overall diameter, which will keep ride height and CG as low as possible, and second, because when it was a clay track I had both company's slicks and the JConcepts just performed a little better.
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  12. #212
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Do proline calibers exist for stadium trucks? As sct tires they worked great on carpet, I did very well once I switched to them...

    Just checked... discontinued
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  13. #213
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Yeah, discontinued, like most everything for stadium trucks from Pro-Line. But only recently so - you can still find them readily available on Amazon, eBay and a handful of the larger online hobby shop sellers. The only real disadvantage I can see with those would be a fairly large overall diameter & subsequently taller ride height. I have always wanted to try those, though - maybe I'll pick up a set anyway. If they're not the hot ticket on the carpet for any reason, I know they'll be awesome on the dirt track.
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  14. #214
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Racing Rustler 2.0 CE (Carpet Edition)

    With one of two tracks near me changing from clay to carpet, this will require a completely new setup. So this post, and the next handful of posts, will be all about this new setup direction. As I mentioned earlier, I've never run on a carpet track before, so I did a bunch of research to see what basics in terms of setup are required, besides the obvious tire change.

    The tracks Facebook page listed the latest carpet tires from Pro-Line & JConcepts as the tires of choice, so I purchased a set of the JConcept Swaggers for the front & Pin Down's for the rear in their Pink (medium soft) compound. I mounted them on another set of white DE Racing Speedline wheels. These are very sticky, but should provide decent wear at the same time, they are also pretty low profile - but more on that in a bit.

    Compared to any type of dirt or clay track, the basic type of setup for carpet is heavily sprung & dampened with an extremely low ride height & low roll center. To accommodate this, I used Losi blue 2.0" (3.8 lb. rate) springs in the front & Losi 2.5" red (2.5 lb. rate) in the rear. I'm also starting with 40wt shock oil all around - I figure I can adjust down from there if needed. After watching some of the tracks "test run" videos, I'm convinced this will be a good starting point, as the buggy's I watched were slapping the ground pretty hard on the landings.

    I did discover something that I've looked for forever - alternate shock pistons that fit Traxxas Ultra shocks. They're made by a company called CSI (Competition Suspension Inc.) that has made suspension accessories for 1/8 scale vehicles for awhile and has now branched out into some 1/10 scale stuff. These pistons are machined delrin and have a unique "ported" oval hole that will vary the dampening effect depending on which way you install them. They look like this....



    To go with the above shock/spring setup I also moved the front shocks in one hole on the shock tower, and moved the rears out one hole (to the outermost position) on the arm to increase their stiffness slightly when compressed. Something I feel is needed to correspond with the low ride height.




    Now with regards to the ride height... For the old clay track setup, I was already pretty low - 26mm front & 25mm rear, with the axles and arms level. Beside having the correct tires for carpet, all of the pros stress having an extremely low ride height, and all of them run slightly below level on the arms in front & slightly below level on the axles in the rear. So that's how I set mine up to start. That puts me at 24mm all around right now - the lowest I've ever had this truck. Looking at the truck like sits today, I think it looks very cool and almost as low as some of the speed run guys truck - a look I really love. We'll see how that translates to actual performance once I hit this new track. I made a few other minor adjustments to camber settings and such, so now it should be good to go for it's first test run on carpet.

    I posted a teaser picture in the gallery yesterday that shows the last change I made for the new setup - a return to the Rustler body. Since this track is indoors and much smaller, more technical in nature, than the outdoor dirt track, I believe the Rustler body will have a little edge over the Bulldog body. The rear wing lays down flatter as well, which should work better, since added downforce for traction isn't needed. At any rate, here she is today....




    And the current setup, in a condensed form....

    Front suspension

    Tires - JConcepts Swaggers - Pink medium soft compound with open cell inserts
    Springs - Losi Blue 2.0" 3.8 lb. rate
    Shock Oil - Losi 40 Wt. with CSI Blue pistons, flat side up
    Camber - -1 degree
    Toe - +0.5 degree
    Shock Mounting - Outermost lower position on arm & 2nd from the outermost position on the Anza tower.
    Frt Ride Height - 24mm

    Rear Suspension

    Tires - JConcepts Pin Downs - Pink medium soft compound with open cell inserts
    Springs - Losi Red 2.5" 2.5 lb rate
    Shock Oil - Losi 40 Wt. with CSI Blue pistons, flat side up
    Camber - -1.5 degrees
    Toe - -3 degrees
    Shock Mounting - Outermost lower position on arm & 2nd from the outermost position on the Anza tower
    Ride Height - 24mm
    Anti-Squat - 2 degrees
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 08-27-2017 at 06:57 PM.
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  15. #215
    RC Qualifier Trentbaby65's Avatar
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    Looking slick.
    Good luck.

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  16. #216
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trentbaby65 View Post
    Looking slick.
    Good luck.

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    Thanks, Trentbaby. It should be quite an experience - definitely looking forward to something new to try.
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  17. #217
    RC Qualifier Amistry20's Avatar
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    Oh, God, that was a really long thread!
    a quick question from the beginning, did you repaint the stock body or did you buy another

  18. #218
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    I purchased a new unpainted Rustler body and gave it the paint job you see in these pictures. I still have the original ProGraphix white & orange body the truck came with when new.
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  19. #219
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Those pistons are awesome. Good find! Do you have a link to those? I can only find full size stuff with that company name.
    Last edited by rag6; 09-02-2017 at 10:43 AM.
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  20. #220
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    They looked real interesting, so I got both sets to try, the red & the blue -the red use a little bit bigger hole size. I've tried them both and set them up both ways, flat side up & flat side down, just see how they reacted. They seem to work as advertised, but the shock oil recommendations are a bit on the light side for the size holes, that's one of the reasons I'm starting at 40wt oil with the smaller (blue) of the piston sizes for the carpet. Here's a link to their page with all of the 10th scale stuff - http://www.team-crp.com/-110-Pistons_c_41.html

    A-main sells them - that's where I got mine, and you can also find them on Amazon. Here's the link to both sizes on A-mains site - https://www.amainhobbies.com/competi...p-0001/p275134
    https://www.amainhobbies.com/competi...p-0002/p275135

    For most situations I would stick with the blue ones & adjust the weight of the shock oil for individual track applications, the red ones just seem to make things too soft to be really useful.
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  21. #221
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    Interesting. The logic is sound. Wonder if I could set up my P4de, seeing as they are only 10mm they won't fit my Rustler

  22. #222
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Will these fit trx big bores? They have different size o.d than the ultras, not sure about the i.d.
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  23. #223
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    Interesting. The logic is sound. Wonder if I could set up my P4de, seeing as they are only 10mm they won't fit my Rustler
    They should work great with anything equipped with Ultra shocks. Although I would only recommend the blue ones for most applications due to the soft/lightly dampened nature of the red ones' large holes. And, if you do any large jumps, you'll want to have them setup with some thicker shock oil to generate enough pack to absorb the landings.
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  24. #224
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    Will these fit trx big bores? They have different size o.d than the ultras, not sure about the i.d.
    They may work with some modification, but from what I've gathered in terms of info over the years about big bores, they are ever so slightly (0.1mm-0.2mm) smaller on inner diameter than the Ultra's. A few years ago, when RPM made some "dual-stage" pistons that fit the Ultra shocks, they stated that they would work in big bores with "a little sanding" in their installation instructions. I read another forum members post somewhere here that had a great idea to accomplish this so that it came out smooth, & even. He put the pistons on a shaft, then used rubber tubing to capture and secure the piston, then put the shaft in the end of a drill and spun it on low speed against some fine sandpaper.

    It seems like a little bit of effort to make these work in the big bores, but with so few options for piston choices in most Traxxas shocks, it might be worth it depending on how you wanted to use them. I'm sure someone with your experience & skills could easily accomplish it though.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 09-03-2017 at 01:45 PM.
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    [QUOTE=FlyingTigerDad;6253662]O.K., so I got my stock Rustler XL5 back in October of last year so I can have something to run with my son's Slash that he got for his birthday last September. I chose a Rustler because I'm an old Losi truck racer (raced JrxT's, LXT's & XXT's back in the day) and I just prefer a stadium truck platform. I was impressed with the trucks capabilites, ease of modifications, availability of parts/hop-ups and support that's out there for the Traxxas products. After getting familiar with the truck, it wasn't long before I found myself looking to make improvements & modifications. Searches online quickly brought me to this community, where I've spent the last 8 months researching and learing about both trucks strengths and weaknesses, as well as some of the best directions to go with our trucks for what we wanted to do with them.
    With that said, my son wanted to mainly bash with his friends, while I just couldn't resist the lure of getting back to an off-road track. Fortunately, we have 2 really nice tracks within minutes of where we live in southern California. One being Hot Rod Hobbies, a large outdoor track that is home to the Reedy Off Road Challenge series & as well as several other national events, and the other being SCVRC (Santa Clarita Valley Radio Control), an indoor clay track that is a little less known, but a great place to run, nonetheless.
    As I read through the many helpful posts here, I made my upgrades carefully and a little at a time as my budget would allow. And speaking of budget, I just want to clarify what my goal was with this build. That being, to build a truly track worthy Rustler with as minimal changes to the original basic design as possible, and of course, as minimal money spent. It's not just about the investment or trying to spend as little as possible either. It really amazes me that I read over and over again on the internet how the Rustler is an "outdated" design, with "poor" suspension geometry, or that getting it to be competitive will cost a fortune, and that just about everything will need to be replaced and/or upgraded. Having run this truck on professional tracks that national races are held on, at first bone stock, then with each change made, I can say that I firmly disagree with those statements.
    I have replaced/upgraded parts very carefully with the mindset of strength, reliability, speed, and handling. All, of course, while trying to maintain as much of the original design as possible - at least in configuration, if not actual parts. In doing so I have replaced quite a bit (for minimal cost), but looking at the truck it appears relatively unchanged.
    Being an "old school" racer, I've never been real hip on the idea of aluminum (sorry aluminum guys!), so I only have a few aluminum parts on the truck - the front bulkhead (STRC), only because I've had several plastic one's (the stock one & a proline one) strip a screw, Traxxas aluminum shock caps & Proline's Pro-2 steering rack, otherwise everything else is still plastic. This is mainly in the interrest of weight. And while I'm speaking of weight, I also hear alot about how heavy the truck is compared to more race bred platforms. This may be so, but in looking at the specs of the Rustler compared to my old Losi trucks and the newer (22t's, etc.) ones, it's surprising how close they realy are. Not just in terms of weight, but wheelbase, length, and front & rear track. I'm more concerned with weight distribution from front to rear than with the total number, as the Rustler is very rear end heavy.
    So, enough of the background stuff... on to the truck itself. Here is the list of changes/upgrades that have been done so far;

    Motor - Velineon Brushless 4 pole
    Esc - VXL3 (with fan!)
    Front Suspension/Steering;
    Ultra shocks with aluminum caps, 40wt Losi oil
    Losi Red 2.5" springs
    Traxxas steel turnbuckles for steering & camber links
    RPM long arms
    RPM castor blocks
    RPM hubs/bearing carriers (with bearings replacing stock bushings)
    RPM Front Shock Tower
    Traxxas (#1972) Lite Wheels
    Proline PRO-2 Steering Rack
    STRC Gunmetal Gray Aluminum Front Bulkhead
    Traxxas 2075 Servo with Savox Metal Gear conversion
    Lunsford Racing titanium hinge pins & king pins

    Rear Suspension;
    Ultra shocks with aluminum caps, 40wt (or 50wt depending on track setup) Losi oil
    Losi Orange 2.5" springs (or Losi Green 2.5" springs, depnding on track setup)
    Traxxas steel turnbuckles for camber links
    RPM rear arms
    RPM rear hubs/bearing carries (with bearings replacing stock bushings)
    RPM rear shock tower
    Traxxas (#1972) Lite Wheels
    Lunsford Racing titanium hinge pins

    Transmission/Driveline
    RPM Transmission case with matching gear cover
    Hot Racing sealed diff with 30K wt diff fluid
    Traxxas HD steel output shafts
    Traxxas rear bumper/wheelie bar mount (to protect the relatively exposed motor)
    Traxxas 83T (or 86T, depending on track setup) Spur gear
    Robinson Racing Pinions 16T - 21T (depending on track setup)

    Tires
    Proline 2.2" Edge M2
    Proline 2.2" Holeshots M3
    Proline 2.2" Suburbs X2
    Proline 2.2" Scrubs MX
    Proline 2.2" Electrons MC
    Jconcepts 2.2" Dirtwebs Gold

    Miscellaneous
    Body - Jconcepts Silverado (old body)
    Traxxas Rustler (current body - again)

    Battery - Traxxas 5000Mah NiMh 7 cell (8.4v)
    Venom Racing 5000Mah 6 cel (7.2v)

    As you can see the one area that I've spent the most has been on tires. These being the most important to a great handling truck (along with suspension settings), so I don't mind that too much. Also, I started out with RPM black 2.2" wheels, but when I did the long arm conversion I switched to the Traxxas Lite wheels so now I can rotate tires. And besides, to look like a real race truck you gotta have dish wheels!
    Next on the agenda is to move the speed control to the left side to try and help weight distribution a bit. Then it's on to 2S LiPo's... (a first for this old time racer!)
    Here's a few pictures of the current truck as it sits today. Sorry I don't have any pictures with the body off yet, but I'll try to get some up soon.


    Out of those tires which ones would be the best 2 picks for indoor packed clay short course?

  26. #226
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    And what about the jconcepts smoothies for short course truck?

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    Is flying tiger dad still following this thread?

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    The message with the least sentences I saw as 7 besides the loner with 1. Lol

  29. #229
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Btyler19 View Post
    Is flying tiger dad still following this thread?
    Yup, still here, and still update this thread as progression continues on the truck. As a matter of fact, I have to post my next update with some new info and track report, as I've been to both tracks near me in the last few weeks since my last update. But that will have to wait for another time, as this time of year gets really busy for me at work and time is very limited.

    To answer your question about the tires... Generally speaking Pro-Line Electrons in MC (clay) compound are the best overall "go to" tire for most applications. That being said, If your track stays fairly moist & sticky, the JConcepts Smoothies are absolutely incredible for grip. If you could only get two tires to start for an indoor clay track, those would be the ones to get.
    Knowledge gained is lost forever if not passed on.

  30. #230
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Cool build, I just found this thread. I have a series of videos on making the Slash into a true race vehicle, and now am a little bored. I just got a Rustler chassis, so my next project will be converting it into a race-ready Rustler.

    I haven't read through this whole thread, but one quick tip -- you can upgrade the Associated V2 slipper to a 3-pad VTS slipper which has a lot more bite and smoother engagement for high power motors:



    Anyone have suggestions on a part to use to shorten up the battery compartment for a shorty battery? I'd like to mount the ESC behind a shorty battery in the battery tray.
    Last edited by RazorRC22; 10-18-2017 at 05:46 PM.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  31. #231
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingTigerDad View Post
    The Traxxas ball diff (#2520), like so many others, was designed and used many years ago, long before the development of today's high-powered brushless systems and LiPo battery's. While it works very well for what it was intended for, I believe it's just not strong enough to hold up to the kind of power modern systems dish out. You can run it, and it will give you a good working diff, but it will be an extremely high maintenance component, requiring constant rebuilds and subject to failure without warning. By the same token, modern sealed gear diffs will give you a similar diff action (even allowing tuning options with different viscosity fluids), without the headaches of constantly having to be rebuilt. Even people like MIP have given up on making ball diffs for the 272 Magnum trans due to high failure rates.
    I disagree. Yes, ball diffs wear out, but the higher performance and instant adjustability makes them superior to gear diffs for 2WD vehicles on dirt IMO. I've been running the Traxxas ball diff in my Slash 2WD with a 7.5t motor and I run a ball diff in all my 2WD race vehicles. They do not fail all of a sudden, they will slowly get gritty over time, but still function. As opposed to gear diffs that will suddenly develop a leak.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  32. #232
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    I'm also curious what the width is of your truck. ROAR rules say 13" or less, I did some quick mocking up with Hyper10TT wheels and it's over the limit. Based on your pics, you might want to check also.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  33. #233
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    My Axial Bomber has a 12.4" front end so it should be ROAR legal

  34. #234
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    Cool build, I just found this thread. I have a series of videos on making the Slash into a true race vehicle, and now am a little bored. I just got a Rustler chassis, so my next project will be converting it into a race-ready Rustler.

    I haven't read through this whole thread, but one quick tip -- you can upgrade the Associated V2 slipper to a 3-pad VTS slipper which has a lot more bite and smoother engagement for high power motors:



    Anyone have suggestions on a part to use to shorten up the battery compartment for a shorty battery? I'd like to mount the ESC behind a shorty battery in the battery tray.
    Thanks for checking out the thread, glad you enjoyed it. I think you'll really like putting a Rustler together for the track - sooo many different things you can do to it, makes it a really fun truck to tinker with. I've watched all your videos on your Slash and enjoyed them a lot as well. My son has a Slash that I've upgraded very similarly to yours over the the last couple of years, so I keep an eye on the Slash forums as well to get ideas & feedback as to what works and what doesn't.

    When I changed to the AE slipper the VTS was already out, but I went with the V2 only for money's sake - I got the whole setup for about $12 other than the STRC top shaft & a new Traxxas top gear, so it was a pretty cheap upgrade to try. Like your comments, I've heard nothing but good things about it, so I may put that on the next trans I build for my truck. I'm actually going to put my complete setup in my sons Slash to give him a major upgrade (his trans is all stock at the moment) and just build a new one for mine.

    For your battery compartment mod you might take a look at something like Pro-Lines Pro2 SC internal plastics kit - Part# 6093-03. It has a couple battery stand off pieces that you may be able to use. Only problem is finding one, since the truck is discontinued parts are getting harder to come by. Perhaps another manufacturer makes something similar for their trucks.
    Knowledge gained is lost forever if not passed on.

  35. #235
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    I disagree. Yes, ball diffs wear out, but the higher performance and instant adjustability makes them superior to gear diffs for 2WD vehicles on dirt IMO. I've been running the Traxxas ball diff in my Slash 2WD with a 7.5t motor and I run a ball diff in all my 2WD race vehicles. They do not fail all of a sudden, they will slowly get gritty over time, but still function. As opposed to gear diffs that will suddenly develop a leak.
    The thing with the Traxxas ball diff that I don't really care for is the whole thrust spring washer thing - I've seen that constantly get loose in some buddy's trucks and create all kind s of problems. The ball diff from AE & Losi seem to be a much better design to me. I used nothing but ball diffs in my old Losi race trucks many years ago and never had any problems with them, just the normal maintenance, so I know they do work well if properly put together an maintained. But the #2520 appears to be fairly finicky with the setup - something you need to get absolutely right every time to get it to work the way it was intended to. For a dedicated racer it's not a big deal, but for most here that have never used a ball diff, it can be.

    I've had good luck with the HR sealed diff so far (I know you & a few others haven't), but just like the ball diffs, there's a certain trick to it in order to put it together without developing leaks. I've had mine in the truck for about a year and half now and only had it out once in that time. That wasn't for any problems, I just had the trans out when I was playing with anti-squat adjustments, so out of curiosity I took it apart just see how it was doing. For me and my application & the tracks I run on, it works very well, so I'll probably stick with a sealed gear diff on my upcoming trans build. Although, I do want to take a look at the FLM version - heard nothing but great things about that one.

    So on this one we'll have to agree to disagree....
    Knowledge gained is lost forever if not passed on.

  36. #236
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    I'm also curious what the width is of your truck. ROAR rules say 13" or less, I did some quick mocking up with Hyper10TT wheels and it's over the limit. Based on your pics, you might want to check also.
    With my Traxxas Lite wheels & RPM arms I started with, the truck was at 13 1/4" in front & 13 1/8" in the rear. With the Pro-Trac arms and DE Racing Speedline wheels it's 12 7/8" all around (actually about 12 15/16" in the rear with the 3 degrees of toe-in). So it'll just barely squeeze into the box. It doesn't really matter to me how wide it is, I just didn't want to hear anybody whine & cry "foul" about an illegal truck when they got beat by a Traxxas.
    Knowledge gained is lost forever if not passed on.

  37. #237
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheRoadWarrior View Post
    My Axial Bomber has a 12.4" front end so it should be ROAR legal
    Funny Now there's something I'd like to see on the track!
    Knowledge gained is lost forever if not passed on.

  38. #238
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingTigerDad View Post
    Thanks for checking out the thread, glad you enjoyed it. I think you'll really like putting a Rustler together for the track
    Yes, it's been a really good thread, took me a while to read it all, but I learned quite a few things. That Pro-MT chassis looks nice.

    When I changed to the AE slipper the VTS was already out, but I went with the V2 only for money's sake - I got the whole setup for about $12 other than the STRC top shaft & a new Traxxas top gear, so it was a pretty cheap upgrade to try. Like your comments, I've heard nothing but good things about it, so I may put that on the next trans I build for my truck.
    Nice, you can get the upgrade kit for I think $15 or something to convert V2 to VTS, so it's not too expensive.

    For your battery compartment mod you might take a look at something like Pro-Lines Pro2 SC internal plastics kit - Part# 6093-03. It has a couple battery stand off pieces that you may be able to use. Only problem is finding one, since the truck is discontinued parts are getting harder to come by. Perhaps another manufacturer makes something similar for their trucks.
    Thanks, I'll look into that. The original RC10 has a similar end piece I've been eyeing, and it also has a little battery strap on top. Doesn't look like it's quite plug and play, but I'll figure something out.

    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingTigerDad View Post
    I've had good luck with the HR sealed diff so far (I know you & a few others haven't), but just like the ball diffs, there's a certain trick to it in order to put it together without developing leaks.
    Cool, I'll try it again sometime if I ever end up building a basher or the track switches to carpet or something.

    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingTigerDad View Post
    With my Traxxas Lite wheels & RPM arms I started with, the truck was at 13 1/4" in front & 13 1/8" in the rear. With the Pro-Trac arms and DE Racing Speedline wheels it's 12 7/8" all around (actually about 12 15/16" in the rear with the 3 degrees of toe-in).
    Thanks for the measurement. TLR 22T wheels are definitely too narrow (wheels hit the arms), and I have some super-wide Hyper 10TT wheels that stick out too far. Did you buy DE Racing wheels for a Rustler or for some other car? I'm thinking of trying Associated T4.1/T5M wheels, as those have kind of a middling offset.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  39. #239
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    You're right on the money! The DE Racing wheels that I use are for the T5M. Part number DER-SST-AW for the white and DER-SST-AY for the yellow. They have a bunch of other colors available - you can check them out here; http://www.deracing.net/store/index....y&path=271_308
    Knowledge gained is lost forever if not passed on.

  40. #240
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    Do all the parts from the rustler fit on the pro Mt aluminum chassis?

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