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  1. #281
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Sorry, double post - see below.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 11-07-2017 at 12:54 AM.

  2. #282
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    I agree with the Rustler body being a bit better and will look into the sway bar option. The Raptor body is cool, my intention was to get more clearance for the MMX, I've since reconfigured the esc, so it's no longer an issue. My wing will be clear in your honor. The Rustler is purpose built, as is yours.
    Gotta love speed run trucks - they're so pretty, shinny & clean!
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  3. #283
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingTigerDad View Post
    Gotta love speed run trucks - they're so pretty, shinny & clean!
    Hey, that was after I pulled it out of a field, I lost my gps all together in that field. But yes I do not get this one past dusty on purpose. That's what the Pede 4x4 is for

  4. #284
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    The next portion of the truck is now completed, and as I eluded to earlier, it involves the last Pro-Line Bulldog body that purchased a number of months ago. Since this may possibly be one of the last of these body's available from what I've seen, I thought I would send it out into the world with something special. As a birthday present to myself, I treated the truck to a custom airbrushed paint job from Kustom RC Graphics. Larry, the owner, is an extremely talented artist and has done custom painted body's for the cover of many RC magazines like RC Driver, as well as body's for some of the top racers in the country, including (the now 2017 IFMAR 2wd buggy World Champion) Ryan Maifield, and Spencer Rivkin to name a few.

    I sent Larry the body and some pictures of the paint scheme and colors that I wanted, and within a few weeks, received the body back exactly as I had envisioned it looking. I just finished cutting, trimming and mounting it as well as applying the custom made pro decals that I had made just for this paint scheme. Now perhaps the somewhat bland white/black/gray decals make sense. The hardest part of this whole thing was trying to find the patience to wait for the body to return - it's like watching grass grow.

    So, without further ado, here is the finished rendition of the truck as it sits today...








    And here's one that Larry took once it was first completed.


    The last minor change I made was to the chassis in the form of some new springs all around. Per RazorRC's recommendation, I wanted to try some of Associated's 54mm/72mm progressive springs out to see how they did on the carpet track. I got pretty much the same rates as the linear springs that I was using, so I would have a good comparison between the two.

    I wanted to give the truck a proper sendoff with the best possible look that I could come up with. The reason is that now, after all this time, and all of these many posts, I feel the truck is finally finished. There is literally nothing left to do to it, nothing left untouched, and certainly, nothing that can make it perform any better than it does now. The truck can now perform with the best of them on any surface - dirt, clay, or carpet. And as I've stated in the past, the only way for the truck to be any better, is with a better driver at the controls than myself. I hope that everyone has enjoyed the documentation of the journey that has seen the transformation of this truck from simple, stock XL5 beginnings to where it has evolved to today - I know I certainly have enjoyed sharing it with you all.

    Now it will be time to start on my son's 2WD Slash, and get that up to par for the carpet as well. I'll be starting a thread for that build on the Slash side of the forum in the not too distant future. While I have no real plans to do any more to my truck other than to maintain it and continue to enjoy it on the track, there will be things that coincide with my son's Slash build that will affect it slightly. For instance, I will probably put my transmission in his truck complete, and build a new one from scratch for mine - trying things like the VTS slipper and perhaps an FLM sealed diff. As those things transpire, I'll put up separate posts in this part of the forum. But since I feel that this build and the truck itself have reached its pinnacle of performance, I believe it's time close out this thread on a high note.
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  5. #285
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    I dig the new paint scheme. The truck looks faster with the new paint

    Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

  6. #286
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Nice job, well done. Fitting finish to an epic thread.
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  7. #287
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Well it's been a good thread. Your ride has come a long way. It looks great. Congratulations. Now time to enjoy.

  8. #288
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    Looks great!

  9. #289
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Thanks guys!
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  10. #290
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    Hey man, Iíd like give you a huge, congratulatory, blue tooth enabled, high five. Thru it all, Iím so happy to have heard about your journey and the successes along the way.

    I dig the lid. Crazy to see you mention the painter. I almost feel like I saw that company name in my travels associated with a racing rustler. I almost feel like that truck had a paint scheme with a very similar color scheme. It looks money. The bulldog was my favorite lid for the rusty, for sure.

    Iím also really happy to see that you went with the ae shocks. For whatever reason, a lot of the TRX faithfuls support the stock traxxas shocks...get some aluminum caps and youíre good lol. Traxxas shocks are such a chore to get emptied and filled just right. Bleeder caps and shock bottoms that are easily rebuildable plus threaded shock bodies are the way to go on a track runner.

    As for leftover mods, I still say jokingly that you need to source the MIP super ball diff to try at least once. Also, I never got a chance to try the -5* Anza caster blocks. If you are ever hunting for more on power steering while running on carpet, those might be the answer. Also, when you get tired of the ae slipper, maybe give consideration to the triad.

    With all that said, I want another Rustler....and itís all your fault FTD

  11. #291
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oaks View Post
    Hey man, I’d like give you a huge, congratulatory, blue tooth enabled, high five. Thru it all, I’m so happy to have heard about your journey and the successes along the way.

    I dig the lid. Crazy to see you mention the painter. I almost feel like I saw that company name in my travels associated with a racing rustler. I almost feel like that truck had a paint scheme with a very similar color scheme. It looks money. The bulldog was my favorite lid for the rusty, for sure.

    I’m also really happy to see that you went with the ae shocks. For whatever reason, a lot of the TRX faithfuls support the stock traxxas shocks...get some aluminum caps and you’re good lol. Traxxas shocks are such a chore to get emptied and filled just right. Bleeder caps and shock bottoms that are easily rebuildable plus threaded shock bodies are the way to go on a track runner.

    As for leftover mods, I still say jokingly that you need to source the MIP super ball diff to try at least once. Also, I never got a chance to try the -5* Anza caster blocks. If you are ever hunting for more on power steering while running on carpet, those might be the answer. Also, when you get tired of the ae slipper, maybe give consideration to the triad.

    With all that said, I want another Rustler....and it’s all your fault FTD
    Oaks, the man, the myth, the Rustler racing legend! Good to hear from you. How ya been? Thanks for the cyberspace high five. How fitting that the man who inspired this build is here at it's completion. Been doing any racing lately? I saw the track you used to race at ("The Track") held the nationals this year. I thought about you when I saw that & hoped you were able to check it out.

    The new body is pretty trick, but not a design I can take credit for. If the paint scheme looks familiar, you've probably seen it on AE's website - that's where I got the layout/colors from...


    Totally agree on the shocks - bleeder caps are so much better & easier to work with. With the stuff for the trans - I'm still not putting anything in stone yet - there's a few ways I could go when I build one from scratch. Probably stick with a sealed gear diff since I'm running more carpet these days, but I remember you had real good results with the Triad, so I'll check that out again before I build it. And the Anza blocks are something I've wanted to try out too - agree with the -5 degree ones. If I get a set, it will be those.

    And last but not least, wouldn't it be ironic if the build & truck that you inspired wound up inspiring you to come back with another one? You know you want to. After all, nothing is more fun & rewarding than making a Rustler fly around the track.
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  12. #292
    RC Racer MaxxPower's Avatar
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    FlyingTigerDad, really enjoyed reading through your build. It's great to see others going to extra step with these older models that may not be as competitive anymore. I think Traxxas definitely deserves a name on the track with the other competitors.

    I just picked up a Rustler roller on eBay super cheap that I plan on tinkering with and putting in a Sidewinder I have laying around - not to the extent that you have with yours (I have my TLR and AE stadium and short course trucks racing) but with some of your ideas I expect it to be a great all around truck for carpet and indoor clay and occasional backyard use, so thank you for that.

    Cheers
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  13. #293
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Thanks MaxxPower, I'm glad you enjoyed the build. But even more so that this thread can help people enjoy their Rustler on the track for fun - really not that hard to do. Sometimes it nice to go on practice/open track days and have something to mess around with, without the high pressure of a full on race environment. Even more fun when what you bring can make it around the track with some authority & composure.
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  14. #294
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingTigerDad View Post
    Thanks, MaXDee. I like the "sleeper" effect as well. It's surprising how many people don't know what body it is without a Traxxas ProGraphix paint job - I get asked all the time.
    Dont worry you have traxxas decales on there... Exhaust tips scream traxxas to me

    Really enjoying this thread. Ty for sharing.
    Last edited by rag6; 11-25-2017 at 06:38 PM.
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  15. #295
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    I was looking through my PictureTrail account the other day and thought it might be fun to put together a timeline photo log of the progression of this build.

    Here is the truck at one week old - bone stock & the first visit to the track.


    Two to three months later....


    About six months later...


    One year anniversary.



    Earlier this year...


    This past summer...


    Nearing the end...


    Almost there...


    And the finished product....
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  16. #296
    RC Qualifier Trentbaby65's Avatar
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    What a lucky and happy Rusty it is.

  17. #297
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Body is amazing in last pic. If ya do another, yellow/blue instead of white would be even better 8)
    Ya can't polish fertilizer...

  18. #298
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Thanks, rag. And I think you're right - that scheme in a yellow/blue would look awesome.
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  19. #299
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    FTD, have you looked into the bumpsteer on the Rustler? I haven't yet, but something I noticed last trackday out was that the truck would turn turn turn as you were apexing the corner, but then had a bit of a tendency to snap oversteer at about mid-corner. It wasn't terrible, but for the most part I was going in the direction of calming the front end down (longer front camber link).

    Turning down the dual-rate helped, because there is so much steering already, but as I was messing with the front camber link, the truck seemed like maybe it had a lot of bumpsteer. I'll have to look into it more this weekend, but was wondering if this is something you've investigated.

    I also feel like the truck could benefit from 1-2mm more wheelbase. I haven't found a good way to test this yet.
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  20. #300
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    FTD, have you looked into the bumpsteer on the Rustler? I haven't yet, but something I noticed last trackday out was that the truck would turn turn turn as you were apexing the corner, but then had a bit of a tendency to snap oversteer at about mid-corner. It wasn't terrible, but for the most part I was going in the direction of calming the front end down (longer front camber link).

    Turning down the dual-rate helped, because there is so much steering already, but as I was messing with the front camber link, the truck seemed like maybe it had a lot of bumpsteer. I'll have to look into it more this weekend, but was wondering if this is something you've investigated.

    I also feel like the truck could benefit from 1-2mm more wheelbase. I haven't found a good way to test this yet.
    Hey Razor, How've you been? I caught the video you posted of the Rustler on the track, so I saw a bit of what your talking about. First things first, though - regarding the bumpsteer... After I changed the front shock tower for more camber link adjustments, I never really had that problem. But whether it was the SRT carbon fiber tower I had at first, or the Anza tower that I have now, I did drill my own additional holes for the inner link position to get it where I wanted. Originally, I drilled the new holes for roll center purposes, but it worked out well to solve any bumpsteer as a side benefit.

    As for the steering - the Rustler does have tons of steering, but that isn't really where the problem lies. My Rustler (as do all Rustlers) had the same mid-corner snap oversteer that your experiencing, and the cure is actually in the opposite end of the truck. To get good, smooth and consistent steering all through the turns, and eliminate the snap oversteer, you'll need to lower the rear roll center and decrease the rear roll stiffness. The rear camber links will need to be as long and low as possible to accomplish this. It sounds somewhat counter-intuitive, but trust me, it works. Since I've done this on my truck, grip throughout the turns, from entry to exit, has been consistent and awesome. This was the main reason I got the Anza rear tower and Pro-Line rear hub/bearing carriers, so I could manage this type of adjustment that just wasn't possible without them.

    Of course this doesn't come without a price - that being more chassis roll. Despite our trucks many similarities and our like mindedness on many things, this is one area where we differ. I believe that as long as the roll center is very low for high traction surfaces (to keep CG low in the turns) that a bit of chassis roll is O.K., whereas I know you don't care for much chassis roll, and have taken measures to limit it. Ultimately, for high traction clay, a little chassis roll will actually benefit grip throughout the turns (particularly in the rear) due to weight transfer that generates lateral traction. This is also one of the reasons that I use the upper hinge pin mounting hole on the rear hub carriers - to get the camber links even lower. At any rate, I urge you to try the lower roll center settings (especially in the rear), I know you won't be disappointed with the results.

    Speaking of like mindedness... Funny you mentioned adjusting the wheelbase. Given that I run on two very different types of tracks, that are also very different sizes, I've thought a lot about adjusting the wheelbase to a longer setup for the much larger outdoor track. Since I've been concentrating on the smaller indoor carpet track lately, I haven't made the modification yet, but I do have pretty good idea of how I want to do it. I was looking at the T5M/XRAY (and even Jato) setups that use small spacers on the inner hinge pins for the control arms. So if you dremel down a little materiel from the arms and use spacers to take up the slack, you would be able to make the wheelbase longer or shorter, depending on where you place them. Between the front and the rear arms with this type of adjustment, you should be able to adjust the wheelbase from about (+/-) 3-5mm without sacrificing any strength in the arms themselves. You could probably do something very similar with the front hub carriers to play with bumpsteer adjustments as well.

    As always, good luck... Try the setup changes & let me know how it works for you.
    Last edited by FlyingTigerDad; 02-03-2018 at 01:21 AM.
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  21. #301
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Hey FTD, thanks for the feedback.

    I'm not sure if we're using different terminology, but a low roll center is accomplished by lower camber link locations on the hubs and/or higher on the shock tower. It's the angle of the link that is most important (to some extent, the length of the link matters, but to a much smaller degree than the angle), not whether the link is overall high (top mounts on both sides) or overall low (bottom mounts on both sides).

    So a higher roll center is accomplished by either lowering the shock tower mounting location, or raising the hub mounting location.

    http://www.rcscrapyard.net/roll-center.htm

    Lowering the outside camber links, lowers the roll center, so conversely, raising the outside link position raises the roll center.

    Lowering the inside camber link position raises roll center and raising the inside camber link position, lowers the roll center.

    Any of these adjustments will affect the "roll moment" and therefore you have some control of body roll.

    The length of the camber link bars affects the speed of roll center change as the car driver around corners. Longer links increase the rate of change. Shorter links decreases the rate of change.
    I'm actually running upper outer location on the hub already, like you I believe, and upper shock tower location. This is sort of a medium roll center, if I went lower on the shock tower it would raise the roll center, or if I went lower on the hub, it would lower the roll center. I'm running stock rear shock tower because the body fits better.

    For the wheelbase adjustment -- thanks for the ideas. I'm not sure if there would be a problem if you moved the rear hubs fore/aft. The rear universal driveshafts already articulate up down as the suspension arm moves, and I'm not sure if they can articulate in the horizontal plane as well. I'll have to check it out, but can they articulate in both planes simultaneously (basically diagonally from the diff)?

    Here's a screen capture of the truck -- it's got quite a bit of roll already front/rear, although it may be slightly unbalanced. It probably rolls a little more in the front than the rear. Looking at the rear tires, I think I need a little more rear negative camber or camber gain. The rear outside tire is at positive camber at full lean. That's probably why it's letting go a bit.

    These two frames are right after one another, and I'm pretty sure I'm not turning the wheel more, yet the front tires point way more inside in the second frame. I think this is the bumpsteer I was worried about. After this turn I always end up way more inside against the pipe than I'm trying to.



    Last edited by RazorRC22; 02-03-2018 at 05:36 AM.
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  22. #302
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingTigerDad View Post
    I was looking at the T5M/XRAY (and even Jato) setups that use small spacers on the inner hinge pins for the control arms. So if you dremel down a little materiel from the arms and use spacers to take up the slack, you would be able to make the wheelbase longer or shorter, depending on where you place them.
    I think you could also dremel down the transmission side arm mount rather than the arms. If I'm sure this doesn't mess up the driveshaft angle somehow, I'll give it a shot.
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  23. #303
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    I think you could also dremel down the transmission side arm mount rather than the arms. If I'm sure this doesn't mess up the driveshaft angle somehow, I'll give it a shot.
    For the rear it probably would be better to dremel down the arm mounts, given the larger volume of material to work with. For the front, if you use an aluminum bulkhead, it might be easier to cut down the plastic on the arms than the metal of the bulkhead. Of course if you're running the plastic bulkhead, then it would be better to shave that down as well. I wouldn't worry too much about the angle of the driveshafts, given that they have u-joints that are designed to move to some pretty severe angels anyway. It's really no different if they move forward or backwards a little, than it is when they move up and down during suspension travel, as the u-joints will rotate the same in 360 degrees.
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  24. #304
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    Hey FTD, thanks for the feedback.

    I'm not sure if we're using different terminology, but a low roll center is accomplished by lower camber link locations on the hubs and/or higher on the shock tower. It's the angle of the link that is most important (to some extent, the length of the link matters, but to a much smaller degree than the angle), not whether the link is overall high (top mounts on both sides) or overall low (bottom mounts on both sides).

    So a higher roll center is accomplished by either lowering the shock tower mounting location, or raising the hub mounting location.

    http://www.rcscrapyard.net/roll-center.htm



    I'm actually running upper outer location on the hub already, like you I believe, and upper shock tower location. This is sort of a medium roll center, if I went lower on the shock tower it would raise the roll center, or if I went lower on the hub, it would lower the roll center. I'm running stock rear shock tower because the body fits better.

    For the wheelbase adjustment -- thanks for the ideas. I'm not sure if there would be a problem if you moved the rear hubs fore/aft. The rear universal driveshafts already articulate up down as the suspension arm moves, and I'm not sure if they can articulate in the horizontal plane as well. I'll have to check it out, but can they articulate in both planes simultaneously (basically diagonally from the diff)?

    Here's a screen capture of the truck -- it's got quite a bit of roll already front/rear, although it may be slightly unbalanced. It probably rolls a little more in the front than the rear. Looking at the rear tires, I think I need a little more rear negative camber or camber gain. The rear outside tire is at positive camber at full lean. That's probably why it's letting go a bit.

    These two frames are right after one another, and I'm pretty sure I'm not turning the wheel more, yet the front tires point way more inside in the second frame. I think this is the bumpsteer I was worried about. After this turn I always end up way more inside against the pipe than I'm trying to.



    For the most part we are using the same terminology, but perhaps not in the same way. Yes, the angle is what will affect roll center most dramatically, and is what's primarily used for the roll center adjustment from high to low. But the length of the camber links that affect the roll moment, while having a much smaller affect on roll center, will have an impact on how the truck reacts while turning - particularly at mid-corner. Longer links will tend to make it smoother and easier to drive by reacting to input quicker, given how fast the suspension changes during a turn. As an example, think of how fast a truck is in and out of a turn, especially high speed turns coming off a straightaway - typically fractions of a second. With longer links the suspension will have an easier time transitioning from level to rolled over back to level on exit due to reacting faster. With shorter links, by the time the truck moves from level to rolled over (or maximum suspension compression) in the middle of the turn, the slower reacting setting is still trying to adjust to that, the event of that travel is already over and the truck is now exiting the turn and leveling out with the suspension just now adjusting to being rolled over. The end result of that imbalance is snap oversteer because it hasn't had time to adjust to where the truck is at that moment.

    So, with a relatively smooth, high traction surface, long, level (relative to the arms) camber links are the best/fastest setup. Now overall height of the links relative to the arms is a much more subtle adjustment than even their length. It won't affect the roll center adjustment really at all, but it will have an affect on where the center of gravity is (slightly) when the chassis does roll. To a very small degree, the lower the links are (or closer to the arms) the more it will force the chassis roll to stay at a very low point, keeping CG as low as possible during a turn - especially in the middle of the turn.

    I've studied a lot of still pictures and videos of the pro's trucks & buggy's moving around various tracks - particularly going through turns, when I was setting my truck up. Looking at the still images from your video, you can see a couple of things right away - both of which you already noticed. First, the slight imbalance from front to rear with regards to how much chassis roll there is, and second, where the camber gain is at (positive, or negative) at maximum roll right in the middle/exit of the turn. To even out the roll center from front to rear and regain that balance as well as lower the rear roll center, I believe you are correct in that you need to move the rear outer link to the lower outer hole on the hub carrier. You are also correct that with the stock (or RPM replacement) rear tower it's the upper hole that needs to be used for the inner part of the link. I forgot that you were using that tower - With the Anza tower that I use, with it's "relocated" link mounting positions, it's the inner lower hole that keeps the link level when the outer lower hole is used on the Pro-Line hub carrier.

    With regards to the rear camber gain, that's one of the things that needs to be watched and adjusted when running fairly low to really low roll centers - you won't get much camber gain at all, so it's typically necessary to add a fair amount of static negative camber to compensate. The trick is knowing where to stop - too much static negative camber and you'll start to lose traction on acceleration.

    I'll be going to the track this weekend myself to try out my new rear sway bar setup for the first time - I hope you'll be able to go as well and test out some of your changes & adjustments. Let me know how they work, particularly interested in the wheelbase adjustment.
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  25. #305
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Forgot to mention something I thought about last night on the bumpsteer thing. I couldn't remember what steering rack you're using, stock or Hot Racing - I seem to think it's the Hot Racing one for some reason. Either way, I know it was different than the Pro-Line PRO 2 rack that I'm using, and that's where the difference may be. You can play with the shim adjustment of the rack itself a little on the posts to raise or lower it's height, or if there's not enough room there to make a difference, you can use ball stud shims under the inner steering link to raise them, or narrower/thinner ball studs themselves to lower the inner links depending on which way you need to go. Between all of those you should be able to get enough adjustment to correct the bumpsteer.
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  26. #306
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Awesome, good tips in there and learned a few things. Got some stuff to try out at the next track session, and is definitely keeping me interested in the truck. It’s been very enjoyable discussing these ideas. Thanks and sorry to hijack your thread!
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  27. #307
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    Awesome, good tips in there and learned a few things. Got some stuff to try out at the next track session, and is definitely keeping me interested in the truck. It’s been very enjoyable discussing these ideas. Thanks and sorry to hijack your thread!
    Not a hijack at all, I'm glad you brought this back up , I kinda miss posting on this thread. I really enjoy our exchange of ideas and information. It's nice to be able to talk to, and share setups with a fellow racer. Also glad that you still have interest in the truck, they really are fun track runners with a good setup.
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  28. #308
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    Man, ive been running my Rustler with the RPM wide mod arms and couldnt find any way to make it ROAR legal. With this thread i now know i need to procure a set of T5M wheels/tires on all 4 corners.

    Really appreciate you doing all the hardwork and giving the community the information.
    Too many Traxxas R/C's to put in here...

  29. #309
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevinatfms View Post
    Man, ive been running my Rustler with the RPM wide mod arms and couldnt find any way to make it ROAR legal. With this thread i now know i need to procure a set of T5M wheels/tires on all 4 corners.

    Really appreciate you doing all the hardwork and giving the community the information.
    Thanks Kevin, I really appreciate your taking the time to respond. I'm glad the info in my post has been useful to a fellow Rustler racer. I've seen your posts here and on other sites with your Rustler & Slashes over the years- very nice, well put together rigs.
    Knowledge gained is lost forever if not passed on.

  30. #310
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    I last left off with a separate post about adding a custom mounted rear sway to the truck, so I wanted to give an update as to how that worked. Since I don't really like keeping track of a bunch of little individual posts, I thought I would just continue posting here to make it both easier for me, and easier for anyone to follow along with some of the ongoing mods that I continue to do.

    As for the rear sway bar setup - that both worked, and didn't work at the same time. Let me explain... When I wanted to add the rear bar to see what it would do to/for the truck, I devised a method of mounting that used almost no hardware - it looked like this...



    That setup worked, in that it mounted the bar securely and it worked exactly as a sway bar should. It kept the rear of the truck very flat and planted. What didn't work was having a rear sway on the truck for the carpet track. Sway bars do essentially two things - control body roll & remove traction from the end(s) with the bar. So with a good working rear sway bar on the truck for this track, it wound up removing too much rear traction, and the rear end would actually slide around in the corners. So, not the hot setup. Since I had a selection of bars to choose from, I actually replaced the bar in the pictures with the lightest (skinniest) bar in the kit before I even went to the track to test it out - I had a feeling that it may be too much, and I was right. Even with the lightest bar possible, it was just too much for the rear of the truck to overcome. After my one and only run (I ran one full battery pack, just to give it a fair chance), I immediately went back to the pits and removed the rear bar. Once I returned to to the track with my "pre-sway bar" setup, the truck was once again totally dialed and could conquer any corner with ease.

    Setup-wise, I don't think there is anything that I can do to improve the trucks handling on this carpet track - the only issues I ever have there are strictly driver error and self induced. I even played around with some stiffer rear spring combos, again just to see what it would do - and again the original setup was still the best. So after all that, I just blasted around the track for a few more hours and left satisfied that I had the best setup for this truck possible at this track.

    My next track session took me back to the outdoor dirt track. I purchased a set of Pro-Line Calibers in M3 for the rear that I was just itching to try out there. I had some work to do in order to get the truck ready for the dirt again. After changing the spring/shock oil combo and removing the front sway bar, I made my camber & toe adjustments, swapped the wheels/tires and I was good to go. I used the setup sheet that made some time ago for this track as a guide, since it worked well there before, and I wanted everything to be as it was before at this track so I could get an accurate measure of how these tires performed on this surface. As expected, the Calibers worked wonderfully there and provided tremendous traction - the truck seemed to have even more bite than any of the 4WD 1/8th scale buggies that were running that day. So that was a really fun day that I shared with my youngest son in the great weather outdoors.

    My son wants me to take him back to the carpet next with his Slash, so I'll being doing the whole setup change thing again back to my base carpet track setup - which by the way, is getting to be quite a pain, but I'll get to that in a minute. My son's Slash is still setup for the carpet, as he drove his mothers truck on the outdoor track with me last.



    Her truck is permanently setup for the outdoor track, since she doesn't like running indoors. For those that don't remember, or haven't seen it, it still looks like this....



    Even though my Rustler has run on, and can be setup for any track surface (carpet, dirt, or clay) with great results, all of those setups are quite different from each other, and involve a bit of work and advanced noticed to change from one to the other. Since I enjoy running on both of the tracks close to me fairly often, and want to continue to do so, I'm probably going to make an addition to my RC fleet in the not too distant future. This will allow me to keep one vehicle setup for the dirt, and a second for the carpet, which will make life (and prep time) a whole lot easier.

    With that said, I'll be off to the carpet (with new carpet tires!!) next weekend with my son and his Slash... Oh yeah, I'll be rockin' the custom painted Bulldog body there for awhile - it's been a shelf queen long enough


    Knowledge gained is lost forever if not passed on.

  31. #311
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    Nice update! While I'm sure switching between carpet and dirt is annoying, at least it's a good problem to have! Only got one local indoor clay track here.

    Your fleet is looking good and thanks for sharing your findings.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  32. #312
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    Thanks Razor. Yes, it is a good problem to have. With tracks being few and far between these days, I never forget how fortunate I am to have two within minutes of where I live. I do like my solution though - can't beat a (more or less) valid reason (excuse?) to get another RC .

    Iv'e looked at and thought about a number vehicles - strongly considered a the EB410, as I've never owned a 4WD before, but decided against that. I've just never been able to get into buggy's - always been a truck guy myself. I've even thought about a TRX4 or a rock racer just for fun, but then that kind of defeats the purpose. So, I've been kind of holding out for the new T6 to take a look at that. Now that the T6.1 is out (well, sort of - Amain says June 5th) I'm definitely leaning that way. I think that would make a good carpet track partner to a dedicated dirt track setup Rustler.
    Knowledge gained is lost forever if not passed on.

  33. #313
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Really can't go wrong with any of the kits nowadays. 4WD buggy is my favorite class, just because they're the most capable/fastest things out there, but everything is fun. I go through cycles -- 4wd truggy, 4wd buggy, stadium truck, short course, 2WD buggy... I stick to 1/10 scale just to keep it sane.

    T6.1 looks good, not sure if I'll get one, but being able to share wheels with the Rustler sure is nice!
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  34. #314
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    So did you ever race the Rusty as a stock rig?

  35. #315
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    There's a carpet track around 2.5 hours away. So after selling my SC10.2FT, SC5M, T5M, & B6M. I decided to go back to Traxxas, after they started lowering some of the rtr price tags. Now I'm speed running the Rusty, until I max out the Velineon vxl system. Then I want to cut the rug with it, and also wanting to buy a 2wd & 4wd Slash. I still love the rear motor trucks like my old Losi LX-T. Team Associated is still a better price on the rtr rigs vs Traxxas rtr rigs, so I'm not really sure what I'm going to do yet.

  36. #316
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    Quote Originally Posted by BUCK71 View Post
    There's a carpet track around 2.5 hours away. So after selling my SC10.2FT, SC5M, T5M, & B6M. I decided to go back to Traxxas, after they started lowering some of the rtr price tags. Now I'm speed running the Rusty, until I max out the Velineon vxl system. Then I want to cut the rug with it, and also wanting to buy a 2wd & 4wd Slash. I still love the rear motor trucks like my old Losi LX-T. Team Associated is still a better price on the rtr rigs vs Traxxas rtr rigs, so I'm not really sure what I'm going to do yet.
    Instead of a 2wd slash, I would buy the new associated Pro SC10 two-wheel drive RTR. Maybe Razor will chime in here shortly about this truck as he did a great review on it

    Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

  37. #317
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaXDee View Post
    Instead of a 2wd slash, I would buy the new associated Pro SC10 two-wheel drive RTR. Maybe Razor will chime in here shortly about this truck as he did a great review on it

    Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
    Yeah, for 2WD RTR short course, I like the ProSC10. Going to do a comparison video soon.

    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  38. #318
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BUCK71 View Post
    So did you ever race the Rusty as a stock rig?
    No, I never raced it bone stock, as I started tinkering with it shortly after I got it - I just don't seem to be able to leave anything alone . It can be made to be track capable without going to the extreme that I have, however.
    Knowledge gained is lost forever if not passed on.

  39. #319
    RC Qualifier FlyingTigerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BUCK71 View Post
    There's a carpet track around 2.5 hours away. So after selling my SC10.2FT, SC5M, T5M, & B6M. I decided to go back to Traxxas, after they started lowering some of the rtr price tags. Now I'm speed running the Rusty, until I max out the Velineon vxl system. Then I want to cut the rug with it, and also wanting to buy a 2wd & 4wd Slash. I still love the rear motor trucks like my old Losi LX-T. Team Associated is still a better price on the rtr rigs vs Traxxas rtr rigs, so I'm not really sure what I'm going to do yet.
    Either truck would be a good choice. The SC10 is probably more capable out of the box, but with a little effort Slash can be made into a fine carpet track racer. Check out my son's carpet track Slash build here to see for yourself - https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...et-Track-Slash

    If there's anything out there that can rival a Slash for parts support, I'd be the SC10. The other thing to think about would be interchangeability of parts between the Rustler and Slash, if you wanted to keep everything Traxxas. In the end, it will just come down to what you prefer.
    Knowledge gained is lost forever if not passed on.

  40. #320
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    Just subscribed to Razor! & will check out the Slash build, as soon as I get back home

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