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  1. #1
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    How to build xo-1 differential

    I am looking to upgrade my front and rear differentials on my slash 4x4. I have read the xo-1 are a drop in and are easy to build.

    From my understanding I need the following

    Traxxas part number 6882x (Gears) and part number 3978 (differential cup). Is there anything else I would need, and are these the correct part numbers.

  2. #2
    RC Champion SlashMaxx4x4's Avatar
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    I have just asked this question too, and from what I understand those are the only parts you need with the exception of the diff grease and oil.
    "Gone racing"

  3. #3
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    If someone makes a YouTube video, it would be great to share! Also in the same boat.

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    not sure where, but I have posted exact part numbers of everything needed somewhere on this site


    PER DIFF:

    Traxxas 3236 (4 screws)
    Traxxas 3978
    Traxxas 5379X
    Traxxas 6882X

    OIL to fill, grease to lube the outside

    I also recommend using LEM O-rings instead of the blue Traxxas X-rings that come with 3978

    http://store.leadingedgemachining.ne...-p/lem-102.htm

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. GeneralPede01's Avatar
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    That's all you need if your building them your self. You can reuse your ring gear. Very easy to build, it's the same as building stock diff with the exception of having the I bar and side plates for the spider gears. Also recommend to use the xo-1 diff cup screws, which are 2.5x12mm part number for screws is tra3236. Most ppl just use the stock screws, I did for a few months but I just recently services my diffs and changed to the longer screws.
    Xo-1 diff

    Stock diff.



    Member of the triple digit club 100mph p4de

  6. #6
    RC Champion Dcuda69's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by swartz View Post
    I am looking to upgrade my front and rear differentials on my slash 4x4. I have read the xo-1 are a drop in and are easy to build.

    From my understanding I need the following

    Traxxas part number 6882x (Gears) and part number 3978 (differential cup). Is there anything else I would need, and are these the correct part numbers.
    Those are the correct numbers. You will also need the oil of your choice. I used longer screws but some guys are using the original screws(the ones holding the ring gear on the diff cup) Sorry I don't have the part number....hopefully someone will chime in with it.

    Edit: I'm a slow typer.....there's the part number for the screws...I also used my ring gear over
    Last edited by Dcuda69; 06-12-2016 at 07:48 PM.
    Slash 4x4 Ult 2150kv
    Rustler vxl
    Ford GT vxl

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    I posted all the parts needed above

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier Swampthing's Avatar
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    How to build xo-1 differential

    It's really very simple. Either get the two part numbers listed above. Remove your stock diff. Build the new diff out of the parts you got in the bags. Fill with diff oil of choice (I would not use grease) then move the big metal ring gear from the old diff to the new diff. Your other option would be to buy a complete diff from a chop shop. I went this route and in the end it's only a few bucks more and you get the extra ring gear. I have been very happy with Jenny's RC for new take off Traxxas parts.

    This video does a great job showing how to add the ibar to a stock diff:

    https://youtu.be/NwCGRpuI-NE

    Now with the full x01 diff mod you will have a new diff cup and some extra tabs. See this post for a comparison of all 3:

    https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...=1#post5646194
    Rustler | MERV | Summit | Slash Ultimate | Slash

  9. #9
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    thanks for the help. I have rebuilt my differentials in the past, but think it is time to upgrade. I used the LEM o-rings and they are fantastic.

  10. #10
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    I'm having some major binding issues when I screw in the ring gear. I bought a complete diff from chop shop but opened it up to change out the fluid, but now I can't get the ring gear back on with the ability for it to spin. I've tried a new ring gear and it just doesn't seem to want to set nice and evenly. If the screws are loose I'm able to rotate the diff a bit but once one tightens down, I can't move it.

    Any ideas?! I've checked the exploded view multiple times to make sure the I-bar is in the right direction and everything else appears to be correct as well. Thanks for some suggestions!

  11. #11
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    Even if I back the screws off a bit, it's still a lot harder to turn than the stock 4x4 diff. Is that right? It seems like I can back the longer screws off a little bit before getting any play in the ring gear but not sure if that's the correct move. Thanks!

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    how tight are you cranking these things down

  13. #13
    RC Champion MikeMcE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AGHolman View Post
    Even if I back the screws off a bit, it's still a lot harder to turn than the stock 4x4 diff. Is that right? It seems like I can back the longer screws off a little bit before getting any play in the ring gear but not sure if that's the correct move. Thanks!
    No that's not right.....Back up think of what you touched, and did you turn anything?

    You should be able to turn all the gears with out binding. No magic, take it slow, did the pinion move?

    Mine turn like butter I got mine from Jenny's RC
    HANG UP AND DRIVE!
    Slash 2wd 4x4
    PRO MT Yeti 4x4

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    what weight fluid are you running? how full did you fill it?

  15. #15
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    It turned fine from Jenny's but then I decided to take it apart and put 30k oil in for the rear. The seal was a little damaged so I put a new seal in and now I can't get it to work. Frustrating! I've made sure the i-bar is in the right orientation.

    What do you mean, did the pinion move? (Sorry, I'm a newb)

    I was getting the screws fairly tight but not too tight, but I've definitely messed up something else. I have the parts to build one from scratch and I might try that now and see what happens.

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    when you first build it, it is fairly tight... it will loosen up a little over time running it....

    I have built 1million, 100k, and 30k --all were a little tight in the beginning

  17. #17
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    I just built one from scratch with 50k weight and it turns by hand (although tight, but doable). Weird! I'll keep investigating. Thanks guys!

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by AGHolman View Post
    I'm having some major binding issues when I screw in the ring gear. I bought a complete diff from chop shop but opened it up to change out the fluid, but now I can't get the ring gear back on with the ability for it to spin. I've tried a new ring gear and it just doesn't seem to want to set nice and evenly. If the screws are loose I'm able to rotate the diff a bit but once one tightens down, I can't move it.

    Any ideas?! I've checked the exploded view multiple times to make sure the I-bar is in the right direction and everything else appears to be correct as well. Thanks for some suggestions!
    Ive had the same problem. Turns out I overtightnd the 4 screws and that was causing the binding. Loosend them up and it was fine. The gasket was broken btw.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by GeneralPede01 View Post
    That's all you need if your building them your self. You can reuse your ring gear. Very easy to build, it's the same as building stock diff with the exception of having the I bar and side plates for the spider gears. Also recommend to use the xo-1 diff cup screws, which are 2.5x12mm part number for screws is tra3236. Most ppl just use the stock screws, I did for a few months but I just recently services my diffs and changed to the longer screws.
    Xo-1 diff

    Stock diff.



    Member of the triple digit club 100mph p4de
    Same diff as an emaxx brushless.
    I maneged to break the ibar. Pfff

  20. #20
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    What do y'all think about this to replace the ring and pinion?

    https://www.amazon.com/Boom-Racing-B.../dp/B01AJ2PQTI

  21. #21
    RC Champion thesmogman's Avatar
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    I posted my way of rebuilding my xo-1 diff in this thread.
    https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...ld-leaking-oil

    This way it holds the o-rings in place, take a look!!
    Slash 4x4 Tekin RX8GenII w/Pro4 4300hd

  22. #22
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    Okay! I got both diffs put together. The are a little tight when trying to spin by hand but doable. It seems like that's okay based on previous responses and threads?

    Thanks for your help! Next step is getting the MIP X-Duty's installed and then onto the 2650kv with MM2. This forum is awesome! (except for 'making' me spend way more money than I should)

  23. #23
    RC Champion thesmogman's Avatar
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    The four screws do not have to be torqued down. They just have to be snug enough to seal the gasket. If you torque them down they tighten the gears up a bit. It is more important that they all are tightened the same amount too.
    Slash 4x4 Tekin RX8GenII w/Pro4 4300hd

  24. #24
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    @AGHolman: I'm sure this will be the most unnecessary tip in the history of this forum, but you're aware that there's a right and a wrong way to put the I-bar in the cup, right? The rounded edge of the I-bar is supposed to face down towards the bottom of the diff cup:

    Summit, Stampede 4x4, Slash 4x4

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