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  1. #1
    RC Enthusiast
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    Question Traxxas Teton Diff Replacement - Any Teton Upgrades? Questions About Car...

    Yesterday i just blew the rear Diff in the Traxxas Teton. I just purchased the car about a week and a half ago and yesterday it went. I have the entire truck pulled apart now and was curious about the best upgrades to put in. I have aluminum driveshaft already.

    What is the best Diff upgrade that will drop right in without any modifications? IF any?

    Will the Dromida Heat Sink Fit the stock 370 motor. I am trying to keep the motor running cooler if at all possible.

    Thanks, i have an order on tower hobbies ready i just wanted input on the diffs if i should upgrade front and rear if there was an upgrade that will fit without any mods.

  2. #2
    RC Racer
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    Unfortunately the only option so far seems to be that you have to build RC18 diff yourself. Once you do that, it drops right in. I have a lot of useful info around this diff in my build thread, and you can find even more when you search for RC18 diff teton ;-).

  3. #3
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    I have reviewed that post several times, there is so much information there. IS there any chance you could send me the best option for differentials with the part numbers so i can find them on tower hobbies. Thanks so much, i just can't figure out which one to do. I can build the diff, i just don't want to make any modifications to the car or diffs to make them fit with the truck thanks

  4. #4
    RC Racer
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    Apr 2016
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    OK, so you definitely need these:
    • 2x Team Associated 21024 18T Complete Differential Kit
    • 2x Team Associated 21141 Differential Shim Set .324x.409x.005"
    • 2x Team Associated 1/18th Steel Ball Differential Outdrives, Hot Racing AET80S01
    • Glues and greases mentioned here: https://projectrcblog.wordpress.com/...-differential/

    I would highly suggest getting these as well (they are replacing the balls in the 21024 kit):
    • 2x Team Associated RC Cars Parts Carbide Diff Balls 21383 NIB
    • 14x 1.5mm SI3N4 ceramic ball (I've got them from Boca Bearings) (perhaps get few spare ones, as they are really small ;-))

    What you will have to do is that you will have to shorten the outdrives, otherwise you'll get binding between the outdrives and drive shafts when shocks are fully compressed (or fully relaxed). This binding will weaken and subsequently break your driveshafts. So you need some kind of milling/sanding tool (Dremel, Proxxon, etc.)

    Before you start, read the links I've posted in my thread. The best one to follow to build it is the one I have posted above. For breaking in and tightening, read my opinion in the thread. With some practice, you can actually do it almost blindly, but that takes several rebuilds and many tries to get it right.

    Be ready for some failures. Eventually, these devilish things are going to work ;-).

  5. #5
    RC poster
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    Oct 2016
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    Got a Teton with Dc 2amp charger and got no car so will this work as a converter?https://www.amazon.com/TMEZON-Qualit...o+dc+converter

  6. #6
    RC Racer
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    Apr 2015
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    Incorrect ladies and gentlemen!!! Gpm has come out with aluminum and steel ball diffs for the latrax. I ordered one late September shipped from Hong Kong and should arrive today or tomorrow. Kinda steep cost at about $32 but we'll see how well it does soon enough.

  7. #7
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by Myrallyisfaster View Post
    Incorrect ladies and gentlemen!!! Gpm has come out with aluminum and steel ball diffs for the latrax. I ordered one late September shipped from Hong Kong and should arrive today or tomorrow. Kinda steep cost at about $32 but we'll see how well it does soon enough.
    Did you get the diff? How is it? For $32, it might be actually a great deal, as I'm pretty sure that I've spent much more on mine. On the other hand, I just took it out after summer-long 3S 6000kv abuse, and all its components are mostly OK. I will just replace the plate (or maybe just smooth it out), rebuild the diff, and it should be good to go again...

  8. #8
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    Well it needs work because it doesn't spin freely so I need to open it up and see if I can use the team associated carbide balls in it. I only purchased it as a back up to my aluminum spool with steel gear. If I can get smooth operation out of it I'll be using it for my sst as well as 2wd rally drag car. For now it seems superb for all metal locked differential which is almost just as good in my opinion. A necessity for metal spur and axles

  9. #9
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    As far as ball diff goes, you're probably better off piecing together an AE but I didn't want to waste time and money doing that so I decided to take the plunge. For a locker I think it'll do great if you don't have a rotary tool to mod your ring to fit the aluminum spool.. I've been running locked rears for almost 2 years and was pleasantly surprised with performance when I decided to go open front and rear. I run heavy rigs on and off road so metal is essential but it would be nice to have an operational ball diff...

  10. #10
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    Oct 2016
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    I just bought a Teton a few days ago . On the controller is a red set button and curious what it's purpose is . Also I have steering but not movement . I tried to reset the servo and calibrate the truck and controller but no success. If someone could help me that would be awesome.
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 10-15-2016 at 08:04 PM.

  11. #11
    RC Racer
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    James2016: Read the owner's manual. Click on this PDF and read pages 6-13.
    🅼🅾🅳🅴🆁🅰🆃🅾🆁🆂 🅳🅾🅽'🆃 🅲🅰🆁🅴

  12. #12
    RC Racer
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    Apr 2015
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    Dropped it in last night and before I could run it I noticed the ring teeth are shorter than stock and leaves too much gap to be practical, I'll come back when I know more

  13. #13
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    Apr 2016
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    You can use shims to push the ring gear a little bit towards the pinion. I had to shim the diff even when using the TA nylon ring gear...

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