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  1. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jdopirak View Post
    hmmm i left the esc fan and the heat shrink on the motor i hope they dont give me trouble for the heat shrink. Where you running nimh batterys at the time??
    Yes and I don't think they will.

    Sent from Eastern Missouri
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  2. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by Briber View Post
    Yes and I don't think they will.

    Sent from Eastern Missouri
    They just emailed me and stated they did not find a problem with the truck, and are sending it back. So i called them and asked them to run another pack or two threw it because it differently has a problem... Im not sure what to replace if they cant find what the problem is. ESC??

  3. #83
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    What did they say? Could it be weak tx batteries?

    Yes if your going about it yourself, replace all electronics....

    Did you check all bearings? Don't give up you'll get!

    Sent from Eastern Missouri
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  4. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by Briber View Post
    What did they say? Could it be weak tx batteries?

    Yes if your going about it yourself, replace all electronics....

    Did you check all bearings? Don't give up you'll get!

    Sent from Eastern Missouri
    So they sent it back im waiting for it to come in. Should be back tomorrow, They stated that its normal, that the draw of the brushless system and the tsm will cause the "brown out" issue with nimh batterys that if should be swapping batterys at that time anyway. And if i run lipos "witch i just ordered one off amazon 2s 5500mah 40c battery" that the lvc in the esc would cut it out before it gets that low anyway. That my sons 2wd brushed truck sense its the basic package wont have those issues because the receiver and the motor do not have that high of a demand.

    On side note. yes i gave up and bought one 2s lipo mostly because one of my 3000mah nimh decided to short out and melt. and it was the same price to get this lipo its cheap made by Floureon?? i just wanted to try lipo out before i spend alot of money on good battery. I also bought the Tenko rear axles, MIP 17mm adapters and buggy wheels and tires. Ive been going to the local rc track with my son almost every sunday now and hes having alot of fun but the stock traxxas tires have no grip so im going to try out buggy tires and wheels on are trucks to see if that helps.

  5. #85
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    Wow long thread. So skipped most of it. My and my son have 2 4x4. And all I can say is they are rocks man. We bash that rather hard at local BMX track. Nothing major has broke yet aside from what you would expect. 1 thing I can tell you about the stock Titan motors are they are junk in terms of life span. I went through 3 on each truck before going brushless. The brushes in the stock motor just ware out fast. And even more so if you get them wet. No problem tho at 30$ it's a cheap fix. Now I don't run a VXL we went to a SCT 3800kv from castle. But the 2 motors are basically the same. If your worries about the 4x4 being a tought truck no worries is it. And our are still mostly stock for plastic parts. And your right it's mean in the front and grips the ground. My sons friend has the 2x4 version and even his friend says he would rather have one of ours. The 2x4 version is not as solid of a truck as the 4x4 brother. Just a heads up tho. I terms of speed on s 4x4 with stock brushless. It will keep up to the 2x4 just fine. We I brushed motors in our 4x4 were slower then my sons friends brushed 2x4 and now that ours are brushless. They go a lil faster then his. You would think more of that brushless motor but keep in mind it has to spin the whole front of the truck also. I read they get hot tho so keep the play with respect.

  6. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deken187 View Post
    Wow long thread. So skipped most of it. My and my son have 2 4x4. And all I can say is they are rocks man. We bash that rather hard at local BMX track. Nothing major has broke yet aside from what you would expect. 1 thing I can tell you about the stock Titan motors are they are junk in terms of life span. I went through 3 on each truck before going brushless. The brushes in the stock motor just ware out fast. And even more so if you get them wet. No problem tho at 30$ it's a cheap fix. Now I don't run a VXL we went to a SCT 3800kv from castle. But the 2 motors are basically the same. If your worries about the 4x4 being a tought truck no worries is it. And our are still mostly stock for plastic parts. And your right it's mean in the front and grips the ground. My sons friend has the 2x4 version and even his friend says he would rather have one of ours. The 2x4 version is not as solid of a truck as the 4x4 brother. Just a heads up tho. I terms of speed on s 4x4 with stock brushless. It will keep up to the 2x4 just fine. We I brushed motors in our 4x4 were slower then my sons friends brushed 2x4 and now that ours are brushless. They go a lil faster then his. You would think more of that brushless motor but keep in mind it has to spin the whole front of the truck also. I read they get hot tho so keep the play with respect.
    The 2 motors are close but the velineon motor being a lower kv can handle 3s nicely running stock gearing. As long as I keep an eye on temps I can run up to 15/50, whereas my castle 3800 motor gave up the ghost and started cogging. Progressively getting worse until all it wants to do is cog at full throttle. I believe running the 3s in it caused decreased life span. I was at max suggested weight and gearing... Between the two, in my opinion having experience with both, the Trx Velineon system is better. It's plug and play with no worries and rugged. The castle has more options/tunability but a bit more fragile.

    Jdopirak good to know, I never imagined a fully charged nimh batt would not be enough to run that system. Especially since a 2s lipo and nimh batts are same voltage. I guess the consistent power of the Lipo gives the advantage. I thought the Velineon esc had caps so that doesn't happen. I must be thinking of something else. Well good to know its good to go lol. Happy bashing...
    Sent from Eastern Missouri
    Last edited by Briber; 09-30-2016 at 11:48 AM.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  7. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by Briber View Post
    The 2 motors are close but the velineon motor being a lower kv can handle 3s nicely running stock gearing. As long as I keep an eye on temps I can run up to 15/50, whereas my castle 3800 motor gave up the ghost and started cogging. Progressively getting worse until all it wants to do is cog at full throttle. I believe running the 3s in it caused decreased life span. I was at max suggested weight and gearing... Between the two, in my opinion having experience with both, the Trx Velineon system is better. It's plug and play with no worries and rugged. The castle has more options/tunability but a bit more fragile.

    Jdopirak good to know, I never imagined a fully charged nimh batt would not be enough to run that system. Especially since a 2s lipo and nimh batts are same voltage. I guess the consistent power of the Lipo gives the advantage. I thought the Velineon esc had caps so that doesn't happen. I must be thinking of something else. Well good to know its good to go lol. Happy bashing...
    Sent from Eastern Missouri
    When full the truck runs fine its when it is getting close to dying is when the brown out issue happens, ive been reading alot on lipo battery and storing them when not running them and it has me kinda sketched out . My oynx 245 charger does not have storage mode for lipos. So Do i just charge it to 3.9volts than pull it off the charger at that point to store it?? I bought a lipo bag. Everything arrived today so ill install new axles and charge the lipo for the first time tonight. I talked to a lhs. And they suggested the HITECH charger that you talked about before, so i may pick that up in a week or two he said it has storage mode,

    By looks of it you have a castle system, With xmas coming up i promised my son i would upgrade him to brushless on his 2wd stampede. So after many hours of research im still up in the air about the Velineon system or get him the Castle v3 water proof system. Or Get the Castle for mine and transfer my Velineon system to his truck only because of the training mode.

    Also i was trying to figure out if you bought 4 Front D8 shocks or 2 front and 2 rear?? I want to order those for my truck

  8. #88
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    Ohhhh okay I understand now. Good to know!

    I ordered 4 red/orange spring ones since they were cheaper than the gray spring sets. Then for like 6 bucks ordered the gray springs. Doing it that way it was the cheapest way. Don't forget standoffs you only need 2 for the front shock towers. In the thread(Im assuming you read it, if not I can link to it), there is part # and exact description of what you need.)

    The hitec is a great charger. My brother had same issue with his onyx charger, so he ended up getting a hitec x2 as well. Yes I'd stop charging at 3.8 until you get better charger.

    I had the castle sidewinder sct combo with 3800 kv motor as my very first upgrade from brushed in my p4de. Now im running castle mm2 esc and castle 2200kv motor in speed runner. If for the boy I'd get the cheaper castle system. Its really only good on 2s. If for you I'd stay with velineon system as it handles 3s fine if you ever wanna start pushing it...

    Sent from Eastern Missouri
    Last edited by Briber; 09-30-2016 at 04:58 PM.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  9. #89
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    Keep in mind it does say water proff on the castle systems now. But also know your traxxas Esc is in a closed compartment. Meaning it's 100%?water proff unless seals are damaged. Where as castle systems the water is exposed to the Esc. I also would not put the castle Esc into a compartment due to heat reasons. True it is coated in a sealant. But be respectful of it. It says waterproof but also at the bottom says what to do if you get wet. Wash with clean water and let dry. Kinda misleading. I used to allow our trucks on the stock brushed system to float across larger bodies of water. I have yet to do with this the 1410sct. I do tho get it wet and clean it off with the shower head. So far both fans and Esc/motor have been fine for the last 6 months. From bmx jump bashing to muddy fun. Fast and slow.

    Happy driving. Cheer.

  10. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by Briber View Post
    Ohhhh okay I understand now. Good to know!

    I ordered 4 red/orange spring ones since they were cheaper than the gray spring sets. Then for like 6 bucks ordered the gray springs. Doing it that way it was the cheapest way. Don't forget standoffs you only need 2 for the front shock towers. In the thread(Im assuming you read it, if not I can link to it), there is part # and exact description of what you need.)

    The hitec is a great charger. My brother had same issue with his onyx charger, so he ended up getting a hitec x2 as well. Yes I'd stop charging at 3.8 until you get better charger.

    I had the castle sidewinder sct combo with 3800 kv motor as my very first upgrade from brushed in my p4de. Now im running castle mm2 esc and castle 2200kv motor in speed runner. If for the boy I'd get the cheaper castle system. Its really only good on 2s. If for you I'd stay with velineon system as it handles 3s fine if you ever wanna start pushing it...

    Sent from Eastern Missouri
    Briber,

    Thanks for all the info it's really helping out,

    So I put the shocks on hold for a few weeks i do plan on getting them for my truck and swapping big bores to my sons 2wd" getting tired if bending his shock straight again" So as you know I upgraded to tenko driveshafts with 6mm hubs, today i was doing speed runs on the street " got up to 29.9mph 11/54 gearing 2s lipo" and I stripped my plastic 12mm hex's so I drilled out old set to fit 6mm drive shaft bore, went to Rc track with son while trying to keep up with the truggys I stripped another one and stripped the hex in the stock traxxas wheel. So last ditch effort I used tire glue and glued a hex into the wheel well see how long that last.

    This breaking stuff every run all started when I went lipo�� Lol. I have a few questions about running lipos in weather but that's for a different thread. But I'm not sure what I should do now that the hex's are the weak point now. Do I get tenko aluminum 12mm hex with 6mm hub bore. And run the old stock wheels from my sons 2wd pede till they strip. Or do I get the xo-1 12mm hex to 17mm kit witch has 6mm bore for axle, or get the tenko 17mm kit and get new wheels

    Xo-1 kit
    Traxxas XO-1 * T-6 ALUMINUM 17mm SPLINED WHEEL NUTS, HEX HUBS & RETAINERS * Pins https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JF6UYR8..._vnP-xb0ZAAQZG

    Tenko kit
    Tekno RC 17mm Hub Adapters for M6 Driveshaft TKR1654-17 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QJTUPC..._AoP-xbPEB9BSZ

  11. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jdopirak View Post
    Briber,

    Thanks for all the info it's really helping out,

    So I put the shocks on hold for a few weeks i do plan on getting them for my truck and swapping big bores to my sons 2wd" getting tired if bending his shock straight again" So as you know I upgraded to tenko driveshafts with 6mm hubs, today i was doing speed runs on the street " got up to 29.9mph 11/54 gearing 2s lipo" and I stripped my plastic 12mm hex's so I drilled out old set to fit 6mm drive shaft bore, went to Rc track with son while trying to keep up with the truggys I stripped another one and stripped the hex in the stock traxxas wheel. So last ditch effort I used tire glue and glued a hex into the wheel well see how long that last.

    This breaking stuff every run all started when I went lipo�� Lol. I have a few questions about running lipos in weather but that's for a different thread. But I'm not sure what I should do now that the hex's are the weak point now. Do I get tenko aluminum 12mm hex with 6mm hub bore. And run the old stock wheels from my sons 2wd pede till they strip. Or do I get the xo-1 12mm hex to 17mm kit witch has 6mm bore for axle, or get the tenko 17mm kit and get new wheels

    Xo-1 kit
    Traxxas XO-1 * T-6 ALUMINUM 17mm SPLINED WHEEL NUTS, HEX HUBS & RETAINERS * Pins https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JF6UYR8..._vnP-xb0ZAAQZG

    Tenko kit
    Tekno RC 17mm Hub Adapters for M6 Driveshaft TKR1654-17 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QJTUPC..._AoP-xbPEB9BSZ
    Fwiwd, I dont like the design where the center is drilled out for the pin on an axle. Id much rather keep a solid metal style shaft. So with that being said I'd go with mip drives and axles. Do your tekno axles have a hole through them? If it does then go with whats cheaper because both of those look like they have a pin that goes through axle.
    I have never stripped a 17mm wheel so imo that is definitely the way to go!

    Sent from Eastern Missouri
    Last edited by Briber; 10-09-2016 at 02:34 PM.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  12. #92
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    Finally made an account to post pics

    [IMG]

    My tenko rear driveshafts

    Stripped hex
    Last edited by Jdopirak; 10-09-2016 at 02:32 PM.

  13. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jdopirak View Post
    Finally made an account to post pics

    [IMG]

    My tenko rear driveshafts

    Stripped hex
    Id stay with tekno(adapters) since thats what your drives are... cheaper too.

    Sent from Eastern Missouri
    Last edited by Briber; 10-09-2016 at 02:39 PM.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  14. #94
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    The tenko 17mm adapter axles will have a hole drilled into them. I take the existing axle off the drive shafts and out of the hubs and replace them with the adapter axle. Himmm never thought about them being weakened from having center hole in axles. Maybe I'll go with xo-1 with metal hex's like you suggested.

  15. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jdopirak View Post
    The tenko 17mm adapter axles will have a hole drilled into them. I take the existing axle off the drive shafts and out of the hubs and replace them with the adapter axle. Himmm never thought about them being weakened from having center hole in axles. Maybe I'll go with xo-1 with metal hex's like you suggested.
    Just get the cheaper teknos then if or when they break switch over to a solid keyed axle with trx or hot racing adapters. On 2s you should get some decent life out of them....

    Sent from Eastern Missouri
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

  16. #96
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    Briber,

    So this addiction has gone to far the woman thinks. I ended up doing tekno axles and 12mm aluminum hex all the way around i purchased the 17 mm adapters but have not purchased any wheels yet, The reason for that is because i came across a good deal on a slash 4x4, 'Going to turn into a backslash" i tried racing with my stampede and it just was not up to par with the stadium trucks that i was running with. That came with 4 sets of wheels and tires two sets of trenchers and two sets of slash wheels. It also came with a traxxas 3s battery it didn't really fit in the stampede but i strapped it down to try it out. HOLY CRAP its a totally different truck on 3s it will do a dead stop back flip. So i went ahead and ordered 2 2s smc lipos and one 3s smc lipo. Than i came across a Rally 1/10 for $50 for roller, Found out it has a lcg chassis so i grabbed that, In a matter of 3 months i went from one to four trucks including my sons. The stampede 4x4 will always be my go to truck tho. I want to make it 3s proof so far i have the tekno axles. Bearing adapter, esc fan and motor fan i just cleaned the diffs and took the grease out of the rear and added 30k diff fluid front and rear. I see people upgrade there center shaft to the Tekno alot is there any reason for that other than it looks cool?? I haven't read much about anyone snapping the stock one.

    Sorry for long post its been awhile sense ive been on the forums.

    Thanks.

  17. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by Briber View Post
    Just get the cheaper teknos then if or when they break switch over to a solid keyed axle with trx or hot racing adapters. On 2s you should get some decent life out of them....

    Sent from Eastern Missouri
    Briber,

    So this addiction has gone to far the woman thinks. I ended up doing tekno axles and 12mm aluminum hex all the way around i purchased the 17 mm adapters but have not purchased any wheels yet, The reason for that is because i came across a good deal on a slash 4x4, 'Going to turn into a backslash" i tried racing with my stampede and it just was not up to par with the stadium trucks that i was running with. That came with 4 sets of wheels and tires two sets of trenchers and two sets of slash wheels. It also came with a traxxas 3s battery it didn't really fit in the stampede but i strapped it down to try it out. HOLY CRAP its a totally different truck on 3s it will do a dead stop back flip. So i went ahead and ordered 2 2s smc lipos and one 3s smc lipo. Than i came across a Rally 1/10 for $50 for roller, Found out it has a lcg chassis so i grabbed that, In a matter of 3 months i went from one to four trucks including my sons. The stampede 4x4 will always be my go to truck tho. I want to make it 3s proof so far i have the tekno axles. Bearing adapter, esc fan and motor fan i just cleaned the diffs and took the grease out of the rear and added 30k diff fluid front and rear. I see people upgrade there center shaft to the Tekno alot is there any reason for that other than it looks cool?? I haven't read much about anyone snapping the stock one.

    Sorry for long post its been awhile sense ive been on the forums.

    Thanks.

  18. #98
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    This is what happened to my stock vxl center drive shaft. It was on a combination of 2s, 3s & 4s. Heres the other end:
    The Tekno has been rock solid and heard they are stronger, only time will tell.
    Heres my suggestions to bulletproof P4de. https://traxxas.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6296896
    You can never go to far show her this:
    Lmbo!!!
    On left floor:
    -Nitro Revo.
    On left table:
    -Latrax Teton,
    -Rustler VXL (upgrades: Sidewinder 8th & 2100kv motor on 3s-6s),
    -VXL P4de,
    -Brushed P4de (upgrades: MM2 & 2200kv motor, D8 shocks, mip drive shafts, hot racing adapters, Trx aluminum hubs and castors). This is my speed runner. It has a 4tec body on it and Ive hit 87.9mph.
    -Brushed P4de (upgrades: esc & 2700kv motor on 4s, mip drive shafts, hot racing adapters, aluminum shock caps, big HPI wheels with Phaltline tires). Its my daily basher.

    On right:
    -Erevo Brushless Edition,
    -Xmaxx.

    Sent from Eastern Missouri
    Last edited by Briber; 11-30-2016 at 06:20 PM.
    Just need one more rc, then Ill be done...

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